EP1021609B1 - Procede de traitement biochimique de fibres textiles d'origine animale, ainsi que les fibres et articles ainsi obtenus - Google Patents
Procede de traitement biochimique de fibres textiles d'origine animale, ainsi que les fibres et articles ainsi obtenus Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP1021609B1 EP1021609B1 EP98947632A EP98947632A EP1021609B1 EP 1021609 B1 EP1021609 B1 EP 1021609B1 EP 98947632 A EP98947632 A EP 98947632A EP 98947632 A EP98947632 A EP 98947632A EP 1021609 B1 EP1021609 B1 EP 1021609B1
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- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- scales
- wool
- treatment
- cortex
- enzyme
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
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Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
- D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
- D06M2101/12—Keratin fibres or silk
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
- D06M2200/45—Shrinking resistance, anti-felting properties
Definitions
- the present invention relates to the technical sector spinning and manufacturing of textile products from natural fibers of animal origin, and more particularly, but not limited to, the sector technique of preparing and spinning the wool, and the manufacture of products and articles wool textiles.
- wool consists of a fiber protein, mainly keratin (amino acids).
- wool fiber is made up mainly of the cortex, which is covered by scales.
- the scales or cuticles are composed basically three layers, the epicuticle, the exocuticle and endocuticle (from outside the fiber to the cortex).
- the cuticle is attached to the cortex with keratin cement.
- Patent FR 1 377 387 filed in 1963, covers the use of a keratolytic enzyme in solution "in an appropriate medium” to treat wool, especially to prevent it from felting.
- the enzyme acts on the surface scales without attack the fiber in depth, i.e. without damage the interior of the fiber.
- Surfactants are not used in any example. Time to treatment is at least 2 hours. Examinations at microscope show an attack of the scales on the surface, that is, the scales remain. It is not done mention of scales removed.
- Patent application WO 89/03909 describes a anti-felting enzyme treatment that does not eliminate The shells. It can be preceded by a pre-treatment oxidizing or reducing. Treatments are short (15 or 30 minutes, in examples 1 and 2), but at temperatures around 100 ° C. The use of agents surfactants is not mentioned. Elimination partial scale is not mentioned.
- the product "Bactosol” (brand of Sandoz) allows to carry out an "enzymatic filing" of the wool.
- the chlorination treatment is deleted, but filing damages the cortex.
- Such an alteration of the cortex is shown in Figures 6 (start) and 7 (burst fiber).
- Patent application JP-51019899 describes a single-stage drum treatment in an organic solvent containing water present in an amount not exceeding 30%.
- wool is in the form of objects knitted.
- the treatment medium also contains a proteolytic enzyme of plant origin, an activator enzyme and emulsifying dispersant. It is stated that the "anti-shrinkage property" wool can be produced by the enzyme in breaking down the scales of wool fibers and making the wool fibers smooth.
- the processing times cited do not exceed 10 minutes, while the processing temperature is is in the range from normal temperature to 80 ° C.
- the treated fibers are smooth, that is to say devoid of scales because they have been broken down and not detached by leaving fingerprints.
- Patent application WO 96/19611 (Novo Nordisk) describes a process applicable to wool ribbons combed or "tops" or possibly on fibers individual say “loose”. According to this process, performs a Delhey type treatment (hydrogen peroxide or "wolframate”) or plasma, combined with treatment proteolytic.
- the enzyme treatment times are in the range of 45 to 120 minutes. Treatments enzymatic with prior or simultaneous use surfactants with a minimum duration of 1 minute are also discussed. However, in the examples, the shortest duration is 45 minutes at 50 ° C and effects on the fiber morphology are not described.
- a general problem of the prior art in addition to the serious implications of certain processes on the environment, especially those using chlorine, is that the fibers are too much or too little rid of scales and that the processes are very long. If the fiber is too little smoothed, significant familiatrability remains, and we must try to remedy it for example by an additional step, therefore problematic and expensive, which involves applying resin to the fiber so as to cover the scales. If the fiber is treated too powerfully, the cortex is attacked. On the other hand, the prior art does. not allow a satisfactory removal of scales, except to be taken the risk of too powerful a treatment that will damage the cortex.
- the problem tackled by the invention is therefore the improvement of treatments of such fibers, in particular wool, to improve its properties, mainly softness and resistance to felting.
- the invention provides a method comprising a general concept, a biochemical aspect and an aspect mechanical, which is based on a radically approach new treatment, and leads to a fiber of a type new. Also surprisingly, the product obtained has properties such as any the natural material preparation chain and its spinning is improved and made easier on the plan another major advantage.
- Figure 8 is a cross-sectional view of a fiber on which we find the exterior layout scales (3,4), the central nucleus formed by the cortex 1, and the binding zone or keratin cement 2.
- connection zone is much less regular than shown in the figure 1.
- a relatively irregular type of Figure 8. This corresponds to the enzymatic attack zone that we tried to show in hatching in Figure 2c.
- the man of trade will understand, without being specified again in the following, that this representation of the area attack is given for illustrative purposes only and not limiting.
- the invention relates to generally a method of flaking fibers of animal origin, protein type, which includes minus a step in which we weaken significantly or the cement layer is destroyed "support” keratin forming the bond between the scale (cuticle) and the cortex, as described in claim 2.
- said step of embrittlement or destruction of the keratin "support” tortoiseshell includes a stage during which one operates an “opening" movement of the scales.
- the invention therefore also relates to a method general treatment of the fibers considered, characterized in that it includes a step in which we cause the opening, as defined above, that is to say total or partial, of part of the scales. It has been discovered that this stage plays a predominant role in the weakening process of the tortoiseshell support. We will definitely prefer therefore the processes which incorporate such a step.
- the invention relates to generally a process which consists in combining a opening movement of scales with treatment selective enzyme.
- the invention relates to generally the combination of the above processes with at least one mechanical treatment allowing detach those from the scales whose support has been weakened or destroyed by said processes.
- the subject of the invention is the product which was obtained by these processes, and which is characterized by a particular elimination of a number of scales, leaving a surface finish markedly different from that obtained in art anterior, in particular because it has scales not eliminated or only partially eliminated, the imprint of the scales removed and, moreover, because the cortex was not damaged.
- the invention finally relates to the methods of fiber processing, preparation and spinning natural fibers, in particular wool fibers, as well as processing and preparation of textile articles such as combed wool ribbons and the like, incorporating at least a step in the processes described above, as well as the textile, knitted, or otherwise manufactured articles by textile or other means, from the fibers obtained by these methods.
- the invention results from a radically approach original.
- keratin cement or "support” the whole formed by the cement itself and the part of the cuticle, susceptible to attack.
- weakening the support we mean here weakening the support to the point that a subsequent mechanical treatment is enough to take off the cortex scales.
- an enzymatic treatment is carried out short of wool fibers (or other animal fibers) in conditions such as the enzyme will attack preferentially and selectively the "support” layer or "keratin cement", these conditions being described in claim 2.
- the invention therefore relates to a method of flaking protein-type animal fibers, comprising a cortex and scales, characterized in that it comprises at least one step according to which we weaken significantly or the cement layer is destroyed keratin forming the connection between a part sufficient scales (cuticles) and cortex.
- this percentage which is a "statistical" representation of the treatment effect according to the invention, consists in having in parallel between 200 and 300 fibers of approximately 60 mm in length, and to place a "section" of length under the microscope about 6 mm from the beam thus formed. On each stretch, we observe the effect of the treatment. The scales either are detached, and their "fingerprint", either are not detached, and remain then either intact or very slightly attacked in surface, or else are broken. We can then easily establish the percentage of "attacked” fibers, the percentage of "loose” fibers and the percentage of fibers not affected (except a slight attack in area).
- the fibers are taken individually from inside and outside the tuft of a batch of wool.
- the fibers are fixed parallel to each other on a cardboard window. They are straightened but not stretched.
- the preparation is positioned on a sample holder, it is immersed in an inert atmosphere of argon and then is metallized by sputtering with gold (Ion Sputter 1100 ).
- the preparation is observed by scanning electron microscopy ( JEOL-T330A-Scanning microscope) under the following adjustment conditions: vacuum 10 -4 Pa, potential difference 10kV, magnification 2000, incidence of the beam on the sample stage 45 °.
- the process according to the invention defined above is characterized in that the step according to which weakens or destroys the keratin cement layer includes part opening movement sufficient scales.
- the invention relates to a method characterized in that said step includes combining a movement opening a sufficient part of the scales with a selective enzymatic treatment.
- the preferential cement attack conditions keratin are obtained when combining a scale opening movement with treatment enzymatic, and when we also combine with a high ionic strength of the enzyme treatment bath.
- Such an additive will for example be a suitable buffer, such as a phosphate buffer, or a mixture of such buffers, or sodium hydroxide added until the desired pH is obtained.
- a suitable buffer such as a phosphate buffer, or a mixture of such buffers, or sodium hydroxide added until the desired pH is obtained.
- the bath will be very short and very little agitated.
- we will shake the wool little or not at all in the bath to avoid felting.
- We thus obtain good efficiency even if the percentage of scales eliminated remains surprisingly low, on the order of 3 to 10%.
- Figure 2a shows a cross section wool fiber, before treatment according to the invention.
- Figure 2b shows the fiber when the scale initiates the opening movement. Without wanting to be linked by any theory, the plaintiff considers that a rupture occurs substantially at the level of the interface between endocuticle 4 and cement keratin 2. "Significantly” means in this context that it is very likely that the rupture will not occur exactly at the interface. Figure 4b indicates by clearly against the opening movement of the scales, compared to Figure 4a.
- FIG. 2d represents the section considered of the fiber substantially by the time the attack is over. Keratin cement 2 and possibly a small part of the scale were destroyed. The scale is not therefore more attached to the cortex than by its base. The form of it and its location are probably responsible for the existence of a "footprint" 7 characteristic after disappearance of the scale, as we will see it below and as visualized on figure 5.
- the invention therefore relates in particular to a flaking process of animal fibers, characterized in what we open a statistically sufficient part of scales, before, or simultaneously with, treatment enzymatic, in that we increase the ionic strength of bath before or during the enzyme treatment, and what the enzyme is allowed to do for a sufficient time to weaken or destroy keratin cement effectively forming the "support" for the scales weakened, but insufficient to damage the cortex.
- the selectivity of the process is believed to be due to the the fact that the enzyme treatment is carried out under a strong ionic force, equivalent to a solution 0.05 to 0.2 M molarity phosphate buffer.
- originality of the invention is to penetrate the enzyme at the location selected for the attack, thanks to the opening of the scales, at a time when the activity enzymatic is high because the ionic strength is chosen at a high value, and this paradoxically without damaging the cortex.
- the enzyme will act effectively at places where it entered statistically, i.e. on keratin cement.
- the contact time with the enzymatic bath is of the order of a few minutes, especially two to six minutes.
- the suitable enzymes according to the invention are known proteases, and their mixtures. Mention will in particular be made of a strongly alkaline protease known under the brand name MAXACAL (TM) from the company GENENCOR and a biocatalyst based on selected enzymes known by the brand name BACTOSOL (TM) from the company SANDOZ. Such enzymes and their mixtures can be selected by a person skilled in the art on the basis of the present description and a few routine tests, in particular by checking the criterion of rapid and selective attack on the "support". It is in particular possible to carry out counts with the electron microscope of the percentages of attacked fibers, of fibers with raised scales, of "exploded" fibers, etc., as described above or by other methods.
- MAXACAL TM
- BACTOSOL brand name BACTOSOL
- the concentration of enzyme (s) will be chosen according to the invention between 0.1 and 0.4%, preferably between 0.1 and 0.2%, by weight relative to the bath, that is to say about 5 to 10 times less than the recommendations of manufacturers.
- the the most important factor according to the invention is the percentage of open scales. This factor is more important that the enzyme treatment time or enzyme activity.
- an optimal opening scales by a surfactant allows to consider a minimum enzymatic treatment time of the order of two minutes for different enzymes and different conditions, and a higher percentage of scales "open", therefore a higher percentage of scales eliminated.
- Treatment can also be done following the raw wool washing operation. In this case, it is implemented following the last rinsing bath, in the same raw wool washing facility, by adding additional treatment tanks.
- the advantage of the invention is that it can be applied to raw fibers already washed in the middle aqueous, or in a solvent medium (degreasing), or also to combed fiber ribbons, for example on the trowel, or any other semi-finished product, woven or knitted.
- the method and the equipment can be adapted to optimize the benefits collected.
- the new product has filability, or aptitude for undergoing spinning, far superior to the filability of previously known products. We can thus clearly improving the stages leading to spinning, and the spinning itself. In particular, the operations are significantly faster than in the prior art. This is the mark of a new, original product in itself by its structure, and more precisely by by its surface condition presenting the imprints of scales removed, and residual scales.
- this new product dyes more easily as similar art products previous, especially untreated wool. It is therefore possible to use less dye to get the same pitch.
- the treatment method according to the invention provides a gain in whiteness significant compared to wool which has not undergone this treatment.
- the process according to the invention gives textile fibers of animal origin, such as wool, good felting resistance.
- the invention provides a comfortable product for wear, if desired, bright colors because of the dye affinity, and this by setting work of an ecological process.
- the invention also relates to the fibers obtained. by implementing the method according to the invention, as well as textile articles such as ribbons, threads, spun articles, knitted articles, and the like, made from said fibers whether considered to be obtained by the process according to invention or as a new raw material in itself.
- the temperature of the bath is 60 ° C.
- This solution also contains a surfactant consisting of a synergistic mixture of ethoxylates and special products which is known under the name of VALSOL LTA-N (TM), the concentration of which is 1 g / l.
- VALSOL LTA-N VALSOL LTA-N
- the enzymatic reaction is triggered by adding the mixture of enzymes, so that the respective final concentrations of MAXACAL 600,000 L (TM) and BACTOSOL WO (TM) are 2 g / l and 1 g / l.
- the enzymatic reaction is stopped after 2 min 30 s by acidification of the treatment water or temperature rise by new passage in the dryer.
- 500 g of wool are immersed for 5 minutes in 50 liters of water at 60 ° C containing VALSOL LTA-N, at a rate of 2% of the weight of wool.
- the bath pH is brought to 9.0 by adding a sodium hydroxide solution at 36 ° Baumé. The amount thus added depends on the pH of the wool being washed.
- the wool is wrung out by passage between the rollers of a press.
- the wool is wrung out by passage between the rollers of a press.
- the wool then crosses, in 15 minutes, an oven whose temperature is maintained at 60 ° C by injection steam.
- the residence time in this oven is such that the time between the dive of the wool in the enzyme bath and the end of the stay in the oven does not exceed not 20 minutes.
- the wool at the exit of the oven, crosses during 5 minutes a bath of 50 liters of water at 50 ° C, whose pH is kept at 2.5 by adding acetic acid.
- the wool is wrung out by passage between the rollers of a press then crosses a dryer from which it comes out with a humidity of 1 to 5%.
- the wool After drying, the wool is carded and then combed. The wool is spun to obtain a thread of number 2/32 which is used to knit on a linear loom using a gauge 12.
- the wool is wrung out by passage between the rollers of a press.
- the wool is wrung out by passage between the rollers of a press.
- the wool then crosses, in 15 minutes, an oven whose temperature is maintained at 60 ° C by injection steam.
- the residence time in this oven is such that the time between the dive of the wool in the enzyme bath and the end of the stay in the oven does not exceed not 20 minutes.
- the wool at the exit of the oven crosses during 5 minutes a bath of 50 liters of water at 50 ° C, whose pH is kept at 2.5 by adding acetic acid.
- the wool is wrung out by passage between the rollers of a press then crosses a dryer from which it comes out with a humidity of 1 to 5%.
- the wool After drying, the wool is carded and then combed. The wool is spun to obtain a thread of number 1/60 which is used to knit on a loom circular using a gauge 24.
- the wool is wrung out by passage between the rollers of a press.
- the wool is wrung out by passage between the rollers of a press.
- the wool then crosses, in 15 minutes, an oven whose temperature is maintained at 60 ° C by injection steam.
- the residence time in this oven is such that the time between the dive of the wool in the enzyme bath and the end of the stay in the oven does not exceed not 20 minutes.
- the wool at the exit of the oven, crosses during 5 minutes a bath of 50 liters of water at 50 ° C, whose pH is kept at 2.5 by adding acetic acid.
- the wool is wrung out by passage between the rollers of a press then crosses a dryer from which it comes out with a humidity of 1 to 5%.
- the wool After drying, the wool is carded and then combed. The wool is spun to obtain a thread of number 1/24 which is used to knit on a loom circular using a gauge 28.
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
Description
- la figure 1 représente en coupe longitudinale une fibre de laine, et montre la cuticule, le cortex et le ciment de liaison.
- la figure 8 représente une coupe transversale de fibre de laine, montrant les cuticules externes, le cortex central et le ciment de liaison.
- la figure 2, qui se compose des figures 2a, 2b, 2c et 2d, représente schématiquement un mode de mise en oeuvre préféré du procédé selon l'invention.
- la figure 3 représente une comparaison entre un tronçon de fibre de laine traitée selon l'invention (figure 3 b) et un tronçon de fibre identique, traitée identiquement sauf en ce que son traitement ne comporte pas d'étape d'ouverture des écailles (figure 3 a), au grossissement 2000.
- la figure 4 représente une comparaison entre un tronçon de fibre de laine à écailles ouvertes par le procédé selon l'invention (figure 4b) et de la même fibre avec les écailles fermées (figure 4a).
- la figure 5 représente une vue d'un tronçon d'une nouvelle fibre de laine selon l'invention, au grossissement 3500, montrant la trace laissée par les empreintes des écailles qui ont été détachées.
- la figure 6 représente le début d'altération d'un tronçon de la fibre de laine, avec attaque du cortex.
- la figure 7 représente la fin de l'altération d'un tronçon de la fibre de laine, avec éclatement de la fibre.
- la figure 9 représente un tronçon de fibre de laine subissant l'écaillage selon l'invention (en cours d'écaillage).
- la figure 10 représente un tronçon de fibre de laine subissant l'écaillage selon l'invention (en fin d'écaillage, les écailles n'étant pas encore tombées).
- la figure 11 représente les écailles qui, dans le procédé selon l'invention, se détachent d'elles-mêmes et tombent dans le bain de traitement, avant l'étape "mécanique".
- fibre modifiée: cette catégorie regroupe les
fibres présentant des images de surface modifiées au
regard de celles de fibres non traitées. Ces
modifications peuvent être rangées dans les sous-catégories
suivantes:
- surface altérée
- bords d'écailles gonflés
- écailles soulevées
- écailles cassées
- perte de structure écailleuse
- fibre non modifiée : fibre dont l'aspect de surface ne permet pas de la classer dans la catégorie précédente et qui peut être considérée comme "normale" par l'homme de l'art.
Fibres modifiées % | Fibres écaillées % | Densité de la boule g/cm3 (Test IW TO 20.69) | |
référence | 0 | 0 | 0,217 |
traitement | |||
54 ± 10 | 3 | 0,194 | |
83 ± 10 | 10 | 0,180 |
TEST | méthode | laine non traitée | laine traitée |
Blancheur | I.W.T.O 35-87 | 48 | 46,5 |
Classement de toucher | 2ème | 1er | |
Pourcentage de colorant | 3 % | 2% | |
Résistance en faisceaux | NF G 07 307 | 8 cN/Tex | 6 cN/Tex |
Retrait surfacique | NF EN 25077 | 45 % | 37 % |
TEST | méthode | laine non traitée | laine traitée |
Blancheur | I.W.T.O 35-87 | 48,9 | 42,2 |
Résistance en faisceaux | NF G 07 307 | 8,46 cN/Tex | 7,4cN/Tex |
Retrait surfacique | NF EN 25077 | 50 % | 35 % |
TEST | méthode | laine non traitée | laine traitée |
Blancheur | I.W.T.O 35-87 | 43 | 39,3 |
Résistance en faisceaux | NF G 07 307 | 8,28 cN/Tex | 7,36cN/Tex |
Claims (15)
- Fibres d'origine animale, du type fibres protéiniques, comportant un cortex revêtu d'écailles, caractérisées en ce que leur état de surface est modifié par l'élimination très régulière d'une proportion d'écailles supérieure à 2% et inférieure à 10%, d'autres écailles n'étant que partiellement éliminées et d'autres subsistant intégralement, et en ce que le cortex n'est pas endommagé.
- Procédé d'écaillage de fibres d'origine animale, du type fibres protéiniques, comportant un ciment kératinique de liaison des écailles à un cortex, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une étape d'application d'au moins un agent tensio-actif aux fibres pour provoquer un mouvement d'ouverture desdites écailles et, simultanément ou postérieurement, une étape d'attaque enzymatique sélective du ciment kératinique dans un bain à une force ionique équivalant à une solution de tampon phosphate de molarité 0,05 à 0,2 M, étape dans laquelle on laisse l'enzyme agir durant un temps déterminé, insuffisant pour endommager le cortex, pour détruire et/ou fragiliser le ciment kératinique formant la liaison entre une proportion d'écailles supérieure à 2% et inférieure à 10% et le cortex, ladite fragilisation étant telle qu'un traitement mécanique ultérieur suffise à détacher les écailles ainsi fragilisées.
- Procédé selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que la proportion des écailles fragilisées et/ou détachées est de l'ordre de 3 à 10%.
- Procédé selon l'une des revendications 2 et 3, caractérisé en ce que le tensio-actif est un mélange synergique d'éthoxylates et de produits spéciaux.
- Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 2 à 4, caractérisé en ce que les enzymes sont choisies parmi les enzymes protéolytiques et leurs mélanges, notamment un biocatalyseur à base d'enzymes sélectionnées et une protéase fortement alcaline.
- Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 2 à 5, caractérisé en ce que la concentration en enzymes ou leurs mélanges est de 0,1% à 0,4 % en poids, de préférence de 0,1% à 0,2 % en poids par rapport au bain de traitement.
- Procédé selon la revendication 5 ou 6, caractérisé en ce que les concentrations en mélange d'une protéase fortement alcaline et d'un biocatalyseur à base d'enzymes sélectionnées, sont respectivement de 2 g/l et 1 g/l.
- Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 2 à 7, caractérisé en ce que la durée du traitement enzymatique est de l'ordre de quelques minutes, notamment de deux à six minutes.
- Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 2 à 8, caractérisé en ce que l'on effectue, à la sortie du bain de traitement enzymatique, un étuvage en continu à une température de 50 à 60°C, pendant une durée de 5 à 10 minutes.
- Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 2 à 9, caractérisé en ce que l'on effectue ensuite ou simultanément un traitement mécanique doux, pour détacher les écailles et les séparer du cortex.
- Procédé selon la revendication 10, caractérisé en ce que le traitement mécanique consiste en une légère agitation du bain de traitement ou de la laine dans le bain de traitement.
- Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 2 à 11, caractérisé en ce qu'on effectue le traitement enzymatique dans une étape de dérivation de la laine en cours de lavage, sur de la laine lavée ou à la suite de l'opération de lavage de la laine brute, dans une installation de lavage munie de bacs supplémentaires.
- Procédés de traitement, préparation et filature de fibres naturelles d'origine animale, notamment de fibres de laine, caractérisés en ce qu'ils comprennent au moins un procédé de traitement selon l'une quelconque des revendications 2 à 12.
- Articles textiles, ou tricotés, ou autrement fabriqués par voie textile ou autre, caractérisés en ce qu'ils comprennent des fibres selon la revendication 1.
- Articles textiles tels que rubans, fils, articles filés, articles tricotés, fabriqués à partir des fibres selon la revendication 1.
Applications Claiming Priority (3)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9712595A FR2769646B1 (fr) | 1997-10-09 | 1997-10-09 | Procede de traitement mecanique/biochimique de fibres textiles d'origine animale, et les nouvelles fibres et nouveaux articles ainsi obtenus |
FR9712595 | 1997-10-09 | ||
PCT/FR1998/002156 WO1999019556A1 (fr) | 1997-10-09 | 1998-10-08 | Procede de traitement mecanique/biochimique de fibres textiles d'origine animale, ainsi que les fibres et articles ainsi obtenus |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP1021609A1 EP1021609A1 (fr) | 2000-07-26 |
EP1021609B1 true EP1021609B1 (fr) | 2004-08-11 |
Family
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Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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EP98947632A Expired - Lifetime EP1021609B1 (fr) | 1997-10-09 | 1998-10-08 | Procede de traitement biochimique de fibres textiles d'origine animale, ainsi que les fibres et articles ainsi obtenus |
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Country | Link |
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EP (1) | EP1021609B1 (fr) |
AU (1) | AU750810B2 (fr) |
DE (1) | DE69825612T2 (fr) |
FR (1) | FR2769646B1 (fr) |
NZ (1) | NZ504410A (fr) |
WO (1) | WO1999019556A1 (fr) |
Families Citing this family (5)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE19807456B4 (de) * | 1998-02-21 | 2008-01-17 | Textilchemie Dr. Petry Gmbh | Filzfrei ausgerüstete Wolle und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung |
GB0029932D0 (en) * | 2000-12-06 | 2001-01-24 | Woolmark Europ Ltd | Fibrillation of natural fibres |
CN107385901A (zh) * | 2017-09-04 | 2017-11-24 | 南通冠洲国际贸易有限公司 | 一种羊毛纱线的处理方法 |
CN112921678A (zh) * | 2021-03-24 | 2021-06-08 | 桐乡市恒润皮草有限公司 | 一种皮毛的表面处理方法 |
IT202100012569A1 (it) * | 2021-05-14 | 2022-11-14 | Lanificio Luigi Colombo S P A | Procedimento per la realizzazione di un tessuto comprendente disegni in rilevo realizzati con intrecci di fili |
Family Cites Families (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR1377387A (fr) * | 1963-09-02 | 1964-11-06 | Espanola Inst Farma | Procédé pour empêcher le feutrage et pour améliorer l'aspect de la laine et d'autres fibres animales, produits conformes à ceux obtenus et objets fabriqués en ces produits |
JPS5119899A (en) * | 1974-08-06 | 1976-02-17 | Nakajima Spinning Co | Yomono hisuikeikakohoho |
BR8807268A (pt) * | 1987-10-28 | 1989-10-31 | Schoeller Hardturm Ag | Tratamento enzimatico de la |
-
1997
- 1997-10-09 FR FR9712595A patent/FR2769646B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
1998
- 1998-10-08 EP EP98947632A patent/EP1021609B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1998-10-08 NZ NZ504410A patent/NZ504410A/en unknown
- 1998-10-08 WO PCT/FR1998/002156 patent/WO1999019556A1/fr active IP Right Grant
- 1998-10-08 DE DE69825612T patent/DE69825612T2/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1998-10-08 AU AU94479/98A patent/AU750810B2/en not_active Ceased
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
NZ504410A (en) | 2003-07-25 |
DE69825612D1 (de) | 2004-09-16 |
AU9447998A (en) | 1999-05-03 |
WO1999019556A1 (fr) | 1999-04-22 |
FR2769646A1 (fr) | 1999-04-16 |
AU750810B2 (en) | 2002-07-25 |
EP1021609A1 (fr) | 2000-07-26 |
FR2769646B1 (fr) | 1999-12-03 |
DE69825612T2 (de) | 2005-09-08 |
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