EP0653507B1 - Lace and method of its manufacture - Google Patents

Lace and method of its manufacture Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0653507B1
EP0653507B1 EP94490020A EP94490020A EP0653507B1 EP 0653507 B1 EP0653507 B1 EP 0653507B1 EP 94490020 A EP94490020 A EP 94490020A EP 94490020 A EP94490020 A EP 94490020A EP 0653507 B1 EP0653507 B1 EP 0653507B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
columns
threads
lace
along
pile
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
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EP94490020A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0653507B2 (en
EP0653507A1 (en
Inventor
Yasuhiko Room No. 305 Motoya
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Sakae Lace Co Ltd
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Sakae Lace Co Ltd
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Priority claimed from JP5286329A external-priority patent/JP2735783B2/en
Application filed by Sakae Lace Co Ltd filed Critical Sakae Lace Co Ltd
Publication of EP0653507A1 publication Critical patent/EP0653507A1/en
Publication of EP0653507B1 publication Critical patent/EP0653507B1/en
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/10—Open-work fabrics
    • D04B21/12—Open-work fabrics characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01—Surface features
    • D10B2403/011—Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0111—One hairy surface, e.g. napped or raised

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to knitted lace which is characterized by the fact that it is composed of columns formed from knitted warp threads constituting for example stitches; it is also composed of proximity loops appropriately connected to each other along said columns using weft threads; it finally has transparent holes of predetermined shape.
  • the present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing the aforementioned knitted laces.
  • This type of knitted lace made for example from chemical fibers has the advantage of being difficult to scrape and of allowing the formation of clean patterns specific to lace.
  • said lace is used for female lingerie and the surface which comprises the patterns is brought directly into contact with the skin, its quality of touch and its capacity for absorbing perspiration leave something to be desired. Therefore, in order to improve the quality of touch and the capacity of absorption of perspiration, it is usual to stick to the back of knitted lace a mesh lining produced for example in cotton threads which has excellent touch qualities and good capacity for absorbing perspiration.
  • this structure has the major drawback of detracting from the aesthetic appearance of the lace patterns because, through the transparent holes forming said lace patterns, the mesh lining can be seen. This drawback is further accentuated in the case where the lining has a high density of cotton threads in order to improve the capacity for absorbing perspiration.
  • this structure which requires a lining in the context of knitting the lace has other drawbacks. This complicates the production process due to the additional operations involved, such as the matching of colors between the lace and the lining as well as the bonding of the latter to the lace. On the other hand, this significantly increases the cost of production.
  • the bonding of a lining to the lace has the consequence of leading to a partial waste of one or the other of the materials if their shape or size do not correspond exactly.
  • lace patterns The qualities of feel and capacity for absorbing perspiration of the lace according to the invention are provided either by designing a particular knitting structure for the threads constituting the columns or by treating the knitted lace.
  • the lace further comprises threads of hairs interlaced and arranged along said columns so that they are projected towards the outside of said columns.
  • pile threads, interlaced along the columns are projected towards the outside of said columns, for example are projected towards the side which corresponds to the reverse side of the surface on which the threads are interlaced. intended for the realization of the patterns of lace.
  • the pile threads are not visible through the transparent holes forming the patterns of the lace as is the case when it is a bonded lining. In addition there is no deterioration in the aesthetic appearance of the patterns.
  • the knitted lace of the invention Since the totality of the threads forming the bristles is not interlaced in the lace but that a part of these threads is projected towards the outside thereof, a relatively large volume of threads can be incorporated into the lace. Consequently, thanks to this structure, the knitted lace of the invention has a pleasant touch. Furthermore the use as yarn of cotton yarn bristles having an excellent capacity for absorbing perspiration makes it possible to improve the capacity for absorbing perspiration of the lace as a whole.
  • the projections formed towards the outside by the bristles are woolly.
  • This woolen fabric has the effect of further improving the quality of touch and the capacity for absorbing perspiration from the lace.
  • the pile threads and the elastic threads are interlaced along the columns. More specifically, the elastic threads are interlaced in extension while the pile threads are while reserving the second part which is intended to be transformed into pile. This second part is not interlaced with the columns. Therefore during the narrowing of the elastic threads after knitting, this second part comes out towards the outside of the knitted lace to form the hairs which are sought after according to the invention.
  • the knitted lace 100 which is illustrated in the figures consists of three parts: a solid part 101, a patterned part 102 and a pile part 103.
  • the united part 101 results from the interlacing of warp threads 5 and weft threads 6.
  • the patterned part 102 is formed by the wires which are intended for producing the patterns 11 and which are interlaced on the surface of the plain part 101.
  • the bristle part 103 is formed by the bristle wires 8 which are interlaced on the back of the plain part 101.
  • the respective thickness of these three parts is in particular between 0.5 to 1mm for the plain part 101, between 1 and 2mm for the patterned part 102 and between 0.5 and 1mm for the bristle part 103.
  • the united part 101 is firstly formed by interlacing in mesh a succession of warp threads 5, for example made of polyamide, to create columns 1, and by connecting loops 2 of proximity to the others in a suitable manner using weft threads 6, for example made of polyamide, to create visible holes 3, 4 of predetermined shape. Thanks to the visible holes 3 and 4 created between the columns 1 and the weft threads 6, the lace 7 has a nice lace appearance. Then the patterned part 102 and the bristle part 103 are formed so that they are intertwined with the part solid 101. In fact, during knitting, these operations take place simultaneously.
  • FIG. 2 clearly illustrates that the patterned part 102 is created by interlacing the wires 11 intended for producing the patterns.
  • the knitted lace has a structure according to which the threads 11, intended for the production of the patterns, stand out on the surface of the lace 7; it is then possible to make flower patterns on the surface of the lace 7 according to a predetermined pattern.
  • the bristle part 103 consists in forming stitches according to a column 1 by interlacing a warp thread 5 and then interlacing in each of said stitches and along the columns 1 a succession of bristle threads 8 and a succession of elastic threads 9. They may especially be elastic threads known under the name Spun-tex.
  • the elastic thread Spun-tex 9 which gives elasticity to the lace 7.
  • the hair thread 8 is interlaced so as to appear at regular intervals on the reverse side of the lace 7.
  • the elastic Spun-tex thread 9 is interlaced, as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, between each of the loops 2 formed in column 1. This has the consequence of ensuring good elasticity but also of transforming the thread of bristles 8 into bristles 10, on the reverse side of the lace 7 thanks to the narrowing of the elastic thread 9.
  • the bristle thread 8 is interlaced every three loops 2 on the same column 1 so as to reveal only on the reverse side of the lace 7 a part 8 has thread 8 which is intended to be transformed into bristles. It is this part which has 8 after retraction of the elastic thread 9 creates the hairs 10.
  • son of bristles 8 is generally used a cotton thread to get a good quality feel and good capacity to absorb perspiration.
  • the part 8 has wire 8 intended to be transformed into hairs and which is projected upside down from the lace 7 then undergoes a woolen treatment.
  • the embodiment of the knitted lace according to the invention is as follows.
  • the woolener is provided as rotary woolen means with a succession of rollers 12 arranged parallel to one another such as rollers having a needle lining or even emery rollers, etc. . These rollers are brought into contact with the bristle part 103 located on the back of the lace. Conveyor rollers 13 have the double function, on the one hand of creating an appropriate tension on the lace 7 and on the other hand of moving the latter in the opposite direction to that of the rotation of the woolen rollers 12.
  • the bristles 10 are washed by the rollers 12 which rotate in the direction of formation of the columns 11 constituting the united part 101.
  • This woolen technique has several advantages. It avoids any contact between on the one hand the needles or protrusions 12 a fixed respectively on the lining rolls or the emery rollers 12, carrying out the woolening and on the other hand the warp threads 5 and the weft threads 6 constituting the part plain 101. So there is no risk of damage to the plain part 101 of the lace. In addition, this technique makes it possible to ensure an excellent woolening of the bristles 10.
  • the Applicant has found that by making the knitted lace in accordance with the invention, that is to say by interlacing the pile threads 8 along the columns 1 formed by warp threads 5 while projecting a part 8a bristle son 8 to the outside of the lace 7, there was no deterioration of the aesthetic appearance proper to the lace.
  • the Applicant has thus obtained a lace which excels both in aesthetic appearance, in quality of touch and in capacity of absorption of perspiration.
  • the present invention is not limited to the embodiment which comes to be described. It may cover in particular the following variants.
  • the knitted lace according to the invention can have visible holes of roughly identical size and arranged at regular intervals over almost the entire surface. It may be a knitted lace, without threads 11 intended for producing the patterns 101.
  • the visible holes can be created by interlacing the warp threads forming the neighboring columns.
  • the warp and weft threads were polyamide threads. It is however possible to replace them with polyester, silk, cotton threads, etc.
  • pile threads polyamide, polyester, rayon threads etc. and as threads intended for the production of patterns of polyamide, polyester, cotton, silk, rayon, wool threads etc.

Abstract

The woven lace of the invention is composed: a) of columns (1) formed by woven warp threads (5), b) of proximity loops (2) connected to one another in a suitable way along the said columns (1) by means of weft threads (6), c) of visible holes (3) and (4) of predetermined form, d) of pile threads (8), if appropriate napped, which are interlaced and arranged along the said columns (1), in such a way that they are projected towards the outside of the said columns (1), e) and, if appropriate, interlaced elastic threads (9) along the said columns (1). A preferred method involves: a) interlacing along the columns (1) in the extension of the elastic threads (9), b) interlacing pile threds (8), whilst producing a part (8a) intended to be converted into piles along the said columns (1) and towards the outside of the said columns (1), but without the said part (8a) being interlaced with the said columns (1), c) taking advantage of the shrinkage of the elastic threads (9) after weaving, converting the said part (8a) into piles (10) formed on the side of the said columns (1). <IMAGE>

Description

La présente invention concerne une dentelle tricotée qui se caractérise par le fait qu'elle est composée de colonnes formées à partir de fils de chaîne tricotés constituant par exemple des mailles ; elle est également composée de boucles de proximité connectées les unes aux autres de manière appropriée le long desdites colonnes à l'aide de fils de trame ; elle comporte enfin des trous transparents de forme prédéterminée. La présente invention concerne également un procédé de fabrication des dentelles tricotées précitées.The present invention relates to knitted lace which is characterized by the fact that it is composed of columns formed from knitted warp threads constituting for example stitches; it is also composed of proximity loops appropriately connected to each other along said columns using weft threads; it finally has transparent holes of predetermined shape. The present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing the aforementioned knitted laces.

Ce type de dentelle tricotée , réalisé par exemple à partir de fibres chimiques présente comme avantage de s'érailler difficilement et de permettre la formation de motifs nets propres à la dentelle. Toutefois lorsque ladite dentelle est utilisée pour une lingerie féminine et que la surface qui comporte les motifs est mise directement en contact avec la peau, sa qualité de toucher, sa capacité d'absorption de la transpiration laissent à désirer. De ce fait, afin d'améliorer la qualité de toucher et la capacité d'absorption de la transpiration, il est habituel de coller à l'envers de la dentelle tricotée une doublure en maille réalisée par exemple en fils de coton qui présente d'excellentes qualités de toucher et une bonne capacité d'absorption de la transpiration.This type of knitted lace, made for example from chemical fibers has the advantage of being difficult to scrape and of allowing the formation of clean patterns specific to lace. However, when said lace is used for female lingerie and the surface which comprises the patterns is brought directly into contact with the skin, its quality of touch and its capacity for absorbing perspiration leave something to be desired. Therefore, in order to improve the quality of touch and the capacity of absorption of perspiration, it is usual to stick to the back of knitted lace a mesh lining produced for example in cotton threads which has excellent touch qualities and good capacity for absorbing perspiration.

Cependant cette structure a pour inconvénient majeur de nuire à l'aspect esthétique des motifs de dentelle car à travers les trous transparents formant lesdits motifs de dentelle on entrevoit la doublure en mailles. Cet inconvénient est encore accentué dans le cas où la doublure présente une forte densité de fils de coton en vue d'améliorer la capacité d'absorption de la transpiration.However, this structure has the major drawback of detracting from the aesthetic appearance of the lace patterns because, through the transparent holes forming said lace patterns, the mesh lining can be seen. This drawback is further accentuated in the case where the lining has a high density of cotton threads in order to improve the capacity for absorbing perspiration.

De plus cette structure qui nécessite une doublure dans le cadre du tricotage de la dentelle présente d'autres inconvénients. Cela complique le processus de production en raison des opérations supplémentaires qu'elle entraîne, opérations telles que l'assortiment de coloris entre la dentelle et la doublure ainsi que le collage de cette dernière à la dentelle. D'autre part cela augmente sensiblement le coût de production. De plus le collage d'une doublure à la dentelle a pour conséquence de conduire à un gaspillage partiel de l'un ou l'autre des matériaux si leur forme ou leur taille ne correspond pas exactement.In addition, this structure which requires a lining in the context of knitting the lace has other drawbacks. This complicates the production process due to the additional operations involved, such as the matching of colors between the lace and the lining as well as the bonding of the latter to the lace. On the other hand, this significantly increases the cost of production. In addition, the bonding of a lining to the lace has the consequence of leading to a partial waste of one or the other of the materials if their shape or size do not correspond exactly.

Afin d'améliorer le toucher d'un article textile au niveau de la peau de l'usager, il est connu d'effectuer un traitement mécanique sur ledit article dénommé lainage. Cependant dans le cas où il s'agit d'une dentelle tricotée, les intervalles entre les fils tricotés sont tellement importants que ceux-ci se déplacent relativement facilement les uns par rapport aux autres. Il n'était donc jusqu'à présent pas envisageable d'améliorer la qualité du toucher d'une dentelle tricotée en lainant la surface de celle-ci.In order to improve the feel of a textile article on the skin of the user, it is known to perform a mechanical treatment on said article called woolen. However, in the case of knitted lace, the intervals between the knitted threads are so great that they move relatively easily with respect to each other. Up to now, therefore, it has not been possible to improve the quality of the feel of knitted lace by woolening the surface thereof.

C'est l'objet de la présente invention que de proposer une dentelle tricotée présentant une qualité de toucher et une capacité d'absorption de la transpiration améliorées sans avoir recours au collage d'une doublure et donc sans que soit détérioré l'aspect esthétique des motifs de dentelle. Les qualités de toucher et de capacité d'absorption de la transpiration de la dentelle selon l'invention sont apportées soit en concevant une structure particulière de tricotage des fils constituant les colonnes soit en traitant la dentelle tricotée.It is the object of the present invention to provide a knitted lace having an improved quality of touch and a capacity for absorbing perspiration without having to glue a lining and therefore without deteriorating the aesthetic appearance. lace patterns. The qualities of feel and capacity for absorbing perspiration of the lace according to the invention are provided either by designing a particular knitting structure for the threads constituting the columns or by treating the knitted lace.

Ce but est parfaitement atteint par la dentelle tricotée de l'invention, qui de manière connue, notamment par le document DE-A-1 760 398 est composée :

  • de colonnes formées par des fils de chaîne tricotés,
  • de boucles de proximité connectées les unes aux autres de manière appropriée le long desdites colonnes à l'aide de fils de trame,
  • des trous apparents et de forme prédéterminée ,
  • de fils élastiques entrelacés le long desdites colonnes et capables de s'allonger ou de se rétracter dans le sens de la longueur des fils.
This object is perfectly achieved by the knitted lace of the invention, which in known manner, in particular by document DE-A-1 760 398 is composed:
  • columns formed by knitted warp threads,
  • proximity loops suitably connected to each other along said columns using weft threads,
  • visible holes of predetermined shape,
  • elastic threads intertwined along said columns and capable of elongating or retracting lengthwise of the threads.

De manière caractéristique selon l'invention, la dentelle comporte en outre des fils de poils entrelacés et disposés le long desdites colonnes de sorte qu'ils sont projetés vers l'extérieur desdites colonnes .Characteristically according to the invention, the lace further comprises threads of hairs interlaced and arranged along said columns so that they are projected towards the outside of said columns.

Ainsi, conformément à l'invention, des fils de poils, entrelacés le long des colonnes, sont projetés vers l'extérieur desdites colonnes, par exemple sont projetés vers le côté qui correspond à l'envers de la surface sur laquelle sont entrelacés les fils destinés à la réalisation des motifs de la dentelle.Thus, in accordance with the invention, pile threads, interlaced along the columns, are projected towards the outside of said columns, for example are projected towards the side which corresponds to the reverse side of the surface on which the threads are interlaced. intended for the realization of the patterns of lace.

Du fait qu'ils sont entrelacés le long des colonnes, les fils de poils ne sont pas visibles au travers des trous transparents formant les motifs de la dentelle comme c'est le cas lorsqu'il s'agit d'une doublure collée. De plus il n'y a pas de détérioration de l'aspect esthétique des motifs.Because they are intertwined along the columns, the pile threads are not visible through the transparent holes forming the patterns of the lace as is the case when it is a bonded lining. In addition there is no deterioration in the aesthetic appearance of the patterns.

Etant donné que la totalité des fils formant les poils n'est pas entrelacée dans la dentelle mais qu'une partie de ces fils est projetée vers l'extérieur de celle-ci , un volume relativement important de fils peut être incorporé à la dentelle. En conséquence, grâce à cette structure, la dentelle tricotée de l'invention présente un toucher agréable. Par ailleurs l'utilisation en tant que fils de poils de fils de coton ayant une excellente capacité d'absorption de la transpiration permet d'améliorer la capacité d'absorption de la transpiration de la dentelle dans sa totalité.Since the totality of the threads forming the bristles is not interlaced in the lace but that a part of these threads is projected towards the outside thereof, a relatively large volume of threads can be incorporated into the lace. Consequently, thanks to this structure, the knitted lace of the invention has a pleasant touch. Furthermore the use as yarn of cotton yarn bristles having an excellent capacity for absorbing perspiration makes it possible to improve the capacity for absorbing perspiration of the lace as a whole.

De préférence les saillies formées vers l'extérieur par les fils de poils sont lainées. Ce lainage a pour effet d'améliorer d'avantage la qualité de toucher et la capacité d'absorption de la transpiration de la dentelle.Preferably the projections formed towards the outside by the bristles are woolly. This woolen fabric has the effect of further improving the quality of touch and the capacity for absorbing perspiration from the lace.

C'est un autre objet de l'invention que de proposer un procédé spécialement conçu pour la fabrication de la dentelle tricotée précitée. Ce procédé consiste :

  • a) à entrelacer , le long des colonnes, en extension des fils élastiques capables de s'étirer ou de se rétrécir dans le sens de leur longueur,
  • b) à entrelacer le long des colonnes des fils de poils sur une première partie de ceux-ci, la seconde partie non-entrelacée aux colonnes étant destinée à se transformer en poils le long des colonnes et vers l'extérieur de celles-ci,
  • c) à transformer en poils formés vers l'extérieur des colonnes , lors du rétrécissement des fils élastiques après le tricotage, la seconde partie des fils de poils non-entrelacés aux colonnes.
It is another object of the invention to propose a process specially designed for the production of the aforementioned knitted lace. This process consists of:
  • a) to intertwine, along the columns, in extension elastic threads capable of stretching or shrinking in the direction of their length,
  • b) interlacing along the columns of the pile threads on a first part of the latter, the second part not interleaved with the columns being intended to transform into pile along the columns and towards the outside thereof,
  • c) to transform into hairs formed towards the outside of the columns, during the shrinking of the elastic threads after knitting, the second part of the threads of non-interlaced hair on the columns.

Les fils de poils et les fils élastiques sont entrelacés le long des colonnes. Plus précisément les fils élastiques sont entrelacés en extension alors que les fils de poils le sont tout en réservant la seconde partie qui est destinée à être transformée en poils. Cette seconde partie n'est pas entrelacée aux colonnes. De ce fait lors du rétrécissement des fils élastiques après le tricotage, cette seconde partie sort vers l'extérieur de la dentelle tricotée pour former les poils qui sont recherchés selon l'invention.The pile threads and the elastic threads are interlaced along the columns. More specifically, the elastic threads are interlaced in extension while the pile threads are while reserving the second part which is intended to be transformed into pile. This second part is not interlaced with the columns. Therefore during the narrowing of the elastic threads after knitting, this second part comes out towards the outside of the knitted lace to form the hairs which are sought after according to the invention.

De préférence, le lainage des poils est réalisé par un moyen de lainage qui tourne dans le sens de formation des colonnes. Ceci a pour effet de permettre un lainage efficace desdits poils seuls tout en limitant au maximum les dommages pour les fils destinés à la réalisation de la partie unie de la dentelle. La présente invention sera mieux comprise à la lecture de la description qui va être faite d'un exemple de réalisation d'une dentelle tricotée présentant des poils sur l'une de ses faces, illustré par le dessin annexé dans lequel :

  • La figure 1 est une représentation schématique de la structure d'une dentelle,
  • La figure 2 est un agrandissement d'une partie de la dentelle montrée à la figure 1,
  • La figure 3 est une vue en coupe de côté de la dentelle et,
  • La figure 4 illustre l'opération de lainage de la dentelle.
Preferably, the woolening of the bristles is carried out by a woolening means which rotates in the direction of formation of the columns. This has the effect of allowing an effective woolening of said bristles alone while minimizing damage to the threads intended for producing the plain part of the lace. The present invention will be better understood on reading the description which will be given of an exemplary embodiment of a knitted lace having bristles on one of its faces, illustrated by the appended drawing in which:
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic representation of the structure of a lace,
  • FIG. 2 is an enlargement of part of the lace shown in FIG. 1,
  • FIG. 3 is a side sectional view of the lace and,
  • Figure 4 illustrates the operation of woolen lace.

La dentelle tricotée 100 qui est illustrée aux figures se compose de trois parties : une partie unie 101, une partie à motifs 102 et une partie poils 103.The knitted lace 100 which is illustrated in the figures consists of three parts: a solid part 101, a patterned part 102 and a pile part 103.

La partie unie 101 résulte de l'entrelacement de fils de chaîne 5 et de fils de trame 6.The united part 101 results from the interlacing of warp threads 5 and weft threads 6.

La partie à motifs 102 est constituée par les fils qui sont destinés à la réalisation des motifs 11 et qui sont entrelacés sur la surface de la partie unie 101.The patterned part 102 is formed by the wires which are intended for producing the patterns 11 and which are interlaced on the surface of the plain part 101.

La partie poils 103 est constituée par les fils de poils 8 qui sont entrelacés sur l'envers de la partie unie 101.The bristle part 103 is formed by the bristle wires 8 which are interlaced on the back of the plain part 101.

L'épaisseur respective de ces trois parties est notamment comprise entre 0,5 à 1mm pour la partie unie 101, entre 1 et 2mm pour la partie à motifs 102 et entre 0,5 et 1mm pour la partie poils 103.The respective thickness of these three parts is in particular between 0.5 to 1mm for the plain part 101, between 1 and 2mm for the patterned part 102 and between 0.5 and 1mm for the bristle part 103.

Comme illustré à la figure 1, la partie unie 101 est tout d'abord formée en entrelaçant en mailles une succession de fils de chaîne 5, par exemple en polyamide, pour créer des colonnes 1, et en connectant des boucles 2 de proximité les unes aux autres d'une manière appropriée à l'aide de fils de trame 6 , par exemple en polyamide, pour créer des trous apparents 3,4 de forme prédéterminée. Grâce aux trous apparents 3 et 4 créés entre les colonnes 1 et les fils de trame 6, la dentelle 7 présente un joli aspect de dentelle. Ensuite la partie à motifs 102 et la partie poils 103 sont formées de telle sorte qu'elles sont entrelacées à la partie unie 101. En fait, lors du tricotage, ces opérations se déroulent simultanément.As illustrated in FIG. 1, the united part 101 is firstly formed by interlacing in mesh a succession of warp threads 5, for example made of polyamide, to create columns 1, and by connecting loops 2 of proximity to the others in a suitable manner using weft threads 6, for example made of polyamide, to create visible holes 3, 4 of predetermined shape. Thanks to the visible holes 3 and 4 created between the columns 1 and the weft threads 6, the lace 7 has a nice lace appearance. Then the patterned part 102 and the bristle part 103 are formed so that they are intertwined with the part solid 101. In fact, during knitting, these operations take place simultaneously.

La figure 2 illustre clairement que la partie à motifs 102 est créée en entrelaçant les fils 11 destinés à la réalisation des motifs. Dans le procédé utilisé, la dentelle tricotée a une structure selon laquelle les fils 11, destinés à la réalisation des motifs , ressortent sur la surface de la dentelle 7; il est alors possible de réaliser des motifs de fleurs sur la surface de la dentelle 7 suivant un dessin prédéterminé.FIG. 2 clearly illustrates that the patterned part 102 is created by interlacing the wires 11 intended for producing the patterns. In the method used, the knitted lace has a structure according to which the threads 11, intended for the production of the patterns, stand out on the surface of the lace 7; it is then possible to make flower patterns on the surface of the lace 7 according to a predetermined pattern.

En ce qui concerne la formation de la partie poils 103, elle consiste à former des mailles selon une colonne 1 en entrelaçant un fil de chaîne 5 et à entrelacer ensuite dans chacune desdites mailles et le long des colonnes 1 une succession de fils de poils 8 et une succession de fils élastiques 9. Il peut s'agir notamment de fils élastiques connus sous la dénomination Spun-tex.As regards the formation of the bristle part 103, it consists in forming stitches according to a column 1 by interlacing a warp thread 5 and then interlacing in each of said stitches and along the columns 1 a succession of bristle threads 8 and a succession of elastic threads 9. They may especially be elastic threads known under the name Spun-tex.

C'est le fil élastique Spun-tex 9 qui donne de l'élasticité à la dentelle 7. Le fil de poils 8 est entrelacé en sorte d'apparaître à des intervalles réguliers sur l'envers de la dentelle 7. D'autre part le fil élastique Spun-tex 9 est entrelacé, comme montré aux figures 1 et 2, entre chacune des boucles 2 formées dans la colonne 1. Ceci a pour conséquence d'assurer une bonne élasticité mais aussi de transformer le fil de poils 8 en poils 10, sur l'envers de la dentelle 7 grâce au rétrécissement du fil élastique 9.It is the elastic thread Spun-tex 9 which gives elasticity to the lace 7. The hair thread 8 is interlaced so as to appear at regular intervals on the reverse side of the lace 7. On the other hand the elastic Spun-tex thread 9 is interlaced, as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, between each of the loops 2 formed in column 1. This has the consequence of ensuring good elasticity but also of transforming the thread of bristles 8 into bristles 10, on the reverse side of the lace 7 thanks to the narrowing of the elastic thread 9.

Plus précisément, le fil de poils 8 est entrelacé toutes les trois boucles 2 sur une même colonne 1 en sorte de faire apparaître seulement sur l'envers de la dentelle 7 une partie 8a du fil 8 qui est destinée à être transformée en poils. C'est cette partie 8a qui après rétraction du fil élastique 9 crée les poils 10. Comme fils de poils 8, on utilise généralement un fil de coton pour obtenir une bonne qualité de toucher et une bonne capacité d'absorption de la transpiration.More precisely, the bristle thread 8 is interlaced every three loops 2 on the same column 1 so as to reveal only on the reverse side of the lace 7 a part 8 has thread 8 which is intended to be transformed into bristles. It is this part which has 8 after retraction of the elastic thread 9 creates the hairs 10. As son of bristles 8 is generally used a cotton thread to get a good quality feel and good capacity to absorb perspiration.

La partie 8a du fil 8 destinée à être transformée en poils et qui est projetée à l'envers de la dentelle 7 subit ensuite un traitement de lainage.The part 8 has wire 8 intended to be transformed into hairs and which is projected upside down from the lace 7 then undergoes a woolen treatment.

Le mode de réalisation de la dentelle tricotée selon l'invention est le suivant.The embodiment of the knitted lace according to the invention is as follows.

Lors du tricotage de la dentelle 100, on entrelace suivant la structure qui vient d'être décrite des fils de chaîne 5, des fils de trame 6, des fils élastiques Spun-tex 9 , des fils destinés à la réalisation des motifs 11 et des fils de poils 8. Parmi ces fils, les fils élastiques Spun-tex sont entrelacés en extension en maintenant une tension relativement élevée compte-tenu de leur rétraction après tricotage. En effet, dès l'achèvement du tricotage, les fils élastiques Spun-tex 9 se rétractent rapidement et la partie 8a du fil 8 destinée à être transformée en poils est projetée sur l'envers de la dentelle, ce qui produit des poils 10 d'excellente qualité. Après ce passage sur métier à tisser Rachel, la dentelle 100 subit un lainage. Cette opération de lainage est illustrée très schématiquement sur la figure 4. Le laineur est muni comme moyens rotatifs de lainage d'une succession de rouleaux 12 disposés parallèlement les uns aux autres tels que des rouleaux présentant une garniture à aiguilles ou encore des rouleaux émeri etc. Ces rouleaux sont mis en contact avec la partie poils 103 située sur l'envers de la dentelle. Des rouleaux convoyeurs 13 ont pour double fonction, d'une part de créer une tension appropriée sur la dentelle 7 et d'autre part de déplacer cette dernière dans le sens contraire à celui de la rotation des rouleaux 12 de lainage.During the knitting of the lace 100, we interweave according to the structure which has just been described warp threads 5, weft threads 6, elastic threads Spun-tex 9, threads intended for the production of patterns 11 and pile threads 8. Among these threads, the elastic Spun-tex threads are interlaced in extension while maintaining a relatively high tension in view of their retraction after knitting. In fact, as soon as knitting is completed, the elastic Spun-tex yarns 9 retract quickly and the part 8 has yarn 8 intended to be transformed into hairs is projected onto the back of the lace, which produces hairs 10 excellent quality. After this passage on Rachel loom, the lace 100 undergoes a woolen. This woolen operation is illustrated very diagrammatically in FIG. 4. The woolener is provided as rotary woolen means with a succession of rollers 12 arranged parallel to one another such as rollers having a needle lining or even emery rollers, etc. . These rollers are brought into contact with the bristle part 103 located on the back of the lace. Conveyor rollers 13 have the double function, on the one hand of creating an appropriate tension on the lace 7 and on the other hand of moving the latter in the opposite direction to that of the rotation of the woolen rollers 12.

Les poils 10 sont lainés par les rouleaux 12 qui tournent dans le sens de formation des colonnes 11 constituant la partie unie 101. Cette technique de lainage présente plusieurs avantages. Elle évite tout contact entre d'une part les aiguilles ou saillies 12a fixées respectivement sur les rouleaux à garniture ou les rouleaux émeri 12, réalisant le lainage et d'autre part les fils de chaîne 5 et les fils de trame 6 constituant la partie unie 101. Ainsi il n'y a pas de risque d'endommagement de la partie unie 101 de la dentelle. De plus cette technique permet d'assurer un excellent lainage des poils 10.The bristles 10 are washed by the rollers 12 which rotate in the direction of formation of the columns 11 constituting the united part 101. This woolen technique has several advantages. It avoids any contact between on the one hand the needles or protrusions 12 a fixed respectively on the lining rolls or the emery rollers 12, carrying out the woolening and on the other hand the warp threads 5 and the weft threads 6 constituting the part plain 101. So there is no risk of damage to the plain part 101 of the lace. In addition, this technique makes it possible to ensure an excellent woolening of the bristles 10.

La demanderesse a pu constater qu'en réalisant la dentelle tricotée conformément à l'invention, c'est-à-dire en entrelaçant les fils de poils 8 le long des colonnes 1 formées par des fils de chaîne 5 tout en projetant une partie 8a des fils de poils 8 vers l'extérieur de la dentelle 7, il n'y avait pas de détérioration de l'aspect esthétique propre à la dentelle. La demanderesse a ainsi obtenu une dentelle qui excelle à la fois en aspect esthétique, en qualité de toucher et en capacité d'absorption de la transpiration.The Applicant has found that by making the knitted lace in accordance with the invention, that is to say by interlacing the pile threads 8 along the columns 1 formed by warp threads 5 while projecting a part 8a bristle son 8 to the outside of the lace 7, there was no deterioration of the aesthetic appearance proper to the lace. The Applicant has thus obtained a lace which excels both in aesthetic appearance, in quality of touch and in capacity of absorption of perspiration.

La présente invention n'est pas limitée au mode de réalisation qui vient d'être décrit. Elle peut recouvrir notamment les variantes suivantes.The present invention is not limited to the embodiment which comes to be described. It may cover in particular the following variants.

La dentelle tricotée selon l'invention peut comporter des trous apparents de taille à peu près identique et disposés à des intervalles réguliers, sur à peu près toute la surface. Il peut s'agir d'une dentelle tricotée, sans fils 11 destinés à la réalisation des motifs 101. Les trous apparents peuvent être créés en entrelaçant les fils de chaîne formant les colonnes avoisinantes.The knitted lace according to the invention can have visible holes of roughly identical size and arranged at regular intervals over almost the entire surface. It may be a knitted lace, without threads 11 intended for producing the patterns 101. The visible holes can be created by interlacing the warp threads forming the neighboring columns.

Même s'il est habituel d'utiliser soit un laineur Franz Muller muni de rouleaux à garniture à aiguilles ou de rouleaux émeri soit un laineur Bever-Emery muni de rouleaux émeri, il est possible d'effectuer un bon lainage en adoptant n'importe quel type de laineur du fait que la partie 8a du fil 8 et destinée à être transformée en poils est projetée vers l'extérieur de la dentelle.Even if it is usual to use either a Franz Muller woolen machine equipped with needle roller or emery roller or a Bever-Emery woolen machine equipped with emery roller, it is possible to carry out a good woolen by adopting any what type of woolen fabric because the part 8a of the wire 8 and intended to be transformed into hairs is projected towards the outside of the lace.

Dans l'exemple décrit ci-dessus les fils de chaîne et de trame étaient des fils de polyamide. Il est cependant possible de les remplacer par des fils de polyester, de soie, de coton etc.In the example described above, the warp and weft threads were polyamide threads. It is however possible to replace them with polyester, silk, cotton threads, etc.

Il est également possible d'employer comme fils de poils des fils de polyamide, de polyester, de rayonne etc et comme fils destinés à la réalisation des motifs des fils de polyamide, de polyester, de coton, de soie, de rayonne, de laine etc.It is also possible to use as pile threads polyamide, polyester, rayon threads etc. and as threads intended for the production of patterns of polyamide, polyester, cotton, silk, rayon, wool threads etc.

Claims (4)

  1. Knitted lace composed:
    - of columns (1) formed by knitted warp threads (5),
    - of proximity loops (2) suitably connected to one another along the said columns (1) by means of weft threads (6),
    - of visible holes (3) and (4) of predetermined shape,
    - of elastic threads (9) interlaced along the said columns (1) and capable of lengthening or of retracting in the longitudinal direction of the threads, characterized in that it comprises, furthermore, pile (10) threads (8) interlaced and arranged along the said columns (1), in such a way that they are projected towards the outside of the said columns (1).
  2. Knitted lace according to Claim 1, characterized in that the projections formed towards the outside by the pile threads (8) are teased.
  3. Method for the production of a knitted lace composed of columns (1) formed by knitted warp threads (5), of proximity loops (2) suitably connected to one another along the columns (1) by means of weft threads (6), and of visible holes (3) and (4) of predetermined shape and of elastic threads (9) interlaced along the said columns (1) and capable of lengthening or of retracting in the longitudinal direction of the threads, characterized in that it involves:
    a) interlacing the extended elastic threads (9) along the said columns (1),
    b) interlacing pile threads (8), whilst producing a part (8a) intended to be converted into pile, along the said columns (1) and towards the outside of the said columns (1), but without the said part (8a) being interlaced with the said columns (1),
    c) converting, by utilizing the :cetraction of the elastic threads (9) after knitting, the said part (8a) into pile (10) formed on the lateral side of the said columns (1).
  4. Method according to Claim 3, characterized in that it involves a step of teasing the pile (10) by a teasing means (12) which rotates in the direction of formation of the columns (1).
EP94490020A 1993-11-16 1994-04-27 Lace and method of its manufacture Expired - Lifetime EP0653507B2 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP286329/93 1993-11-16
JP28632993 1993-11-16
JP5286329A JP2735783B2 (en) 1993-06-07 1993-11-16 Knitted lace and method of manufacturing knitted lace

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0653507A1 EP0653507A1 (en) 1995-05-17
EP0653507B1 true EP0653507B1 (en) 1996-09-11
EP0653507B2 EP0653507B2 (en) 2004-05-06

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EP94490020A Expired - Lifetime EP0653507B2 (en) 1993-11-16 1994-04-27 Lace and method of its manufacture

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EP (1) EP0653507B2 (en)
AT (1) ATE142719T1 (en)
DE (1) DE69400521T3 (en)
ES (1) ES2094631T5 (en)
HK (1) HK1006733A1 (en)

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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP3020863B2 (en) * 1996-02-23 2000-03-15 栄レース株式会社 Knitting method of lace knitted fabric and lace knitted fabric
JP2001164447A (en) * 1999-12-02 2001-06-19 Sakae Lace Kk Lace knitting and method of its knitting
JP3393099B2 (en) * 1999-12-22 2003-04-07 栄レース株式会社 Russell lace ground
CN107532350A (en) * 2016-04-08 2018-01-02 日商吉田特雷克斯股份有限公司 Lace knitted fabric

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1760398A1 (en) * 1968-05-14 1971-11-25 Blum & Koniarski Gmbh & Co Elastic lace tapes and plains with falling metal rustle pattern and device for their production
US4280259A (en) * 1980-04-07 1981-07-28 Bassist Rudolf G Method of knitting a velour lace fabric
GB2106153B (en) * 1981-09-03 1985-04-11 Ici Plc Elastomeric knitted pile fabrics
JPH01272853A (en) * 1988-04-22 1989-10-31 Teijin Ltd Raised warp knitted fabric
JP2563369Y2 (en) * 1992-09-21 1998-02-18 ワイケイケイ株式会社 Warp knit base fabric for hook-and-loop fastener

Also Published As

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HK1006733A1 (en) 1999-03-12
EP0653507B2 (en) 2004-05-06
EP0653507A1 (en) 1995-05-17
DE69400521T3 (en) 2004-12-30
DE69400521T2 (en) 1997-03-27
DE69400521D1 (en) 1996-10-17
ES2094631T3 (en) 1997-01-16
ES2094631T5 (en) 2004-12-16
ATE142719T1 (en) 1996-09-15

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