EP0529168B1 - Ringshape jewellery with an external ring rotatively mounted and manufacturing of the same - Google Patents

Ringshape jewellery with an external ring rotatively mounted and manufacturing of the same Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0529168B1
EP0529168B1 EP91430021A EP91430021A EP0529168B1 EP 0529168 B1 EP0529168 B1 EP 0529168B1 EP 91430021 A EP91430021 A EP 91430021A EP 91430021 A EP91430021 A EP 91430021A EP 0529168 B1 EP0529168 B1 EP 0529168B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
ring
lateral
outer collar
rings
inner ring
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Expired - Lifetime
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EP91430021A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0529168A1 (en
Inventor
Bruno Wiriath
Raymond Georges
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OR-EST
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OR-EST
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C9/00—Finger-rings
    • A44C9/0007—Finger-rings made of several rings
    • A44C9/0015—Finger-rings made of several rings connected or interlinked to each other
    • A44C9/003—Finger-rings made of several rings connected or interlinked to each other in a rotatable way
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C5/00—Bracelets; Wrist-watch straps; Fastenings for bracelets or wrist-watch straps
    • A44C5/0084—Bracelets in the form of a ring, band or tube of rigid material
    • A44C5/0092—Bracelets in the form of a ring, band or tube of rigid material essentially made from metal

Definitions

  • the subject of the present invention is jewelry of circular shape such as rings, bracelets or pendants comprising a rotating external ring and methods of manufacturing this jewelry.
  • the technical sector of the invention is that of making jewelry.
  • Circular jewelry is already known, such as rings or bracelets comprising a rotating estern ring.
  • US Patent 2,060,345 (Ch. PHILIPPS) describes jewelry, in particular rings or bracelets, which have an external ring on which gemstones can be set, which is mounted on a concentric internal ring, around which it can rotate freely.
  • the two rings are made of materials having a low coefficient of friction, for example celluloid.
  • the two rings are metallic, an anti-friction device is inserted between them, for example a ball bearing.
  • an anti-friction device is inserted between them, for example a ball bearing.
  • one of them preferably the internal ring, is split so that it can be constricted to be inserted in the external ring.
  • the goal is to provide jewelry that can vary the part of the outer ring that is presented to the eye.
  • US Patent 2,453,955 J. YOUNGHUSBAND
  • a ring which comprises several precious stones and a cover which is rotatably mounted around a part of said ring, which makes it possible to cover or discover successively several stones in order to serve as memory aid.
  • US Patent 1,327,606 (S. BACHARACH) describes alliances which are composed of three rings: a central ring which comprises a pair of flanges and two lateral rings which each have a groove, into which one of said flanges penetrates, so that the three rings can rotate relative to each other.
  • the aim is to allow the wear to be distributed over the entire periphery of the ring.
  • the internal ring initially has an external diameter smaller than the internal diameter of one of the lips which delimits each of the grooves of the external rings and the internal ring is deformed in order to increase its diameter.
  • the FR patent. 634.323 describes alliances formed of two concentric rings, of different material, in order to simplify the manufacture.
  • the internal ring has a groove in which an external ring is engaged which has an initial external diameter slightly greater than the external diameter of the internal ring and which is then constricted so as to fit securely in the groove.
  • the internal ring can be dilated.
  • the outer ring does not rotate in the inner ring.
  • the object of the present invention is different.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide jewelry which has this feature and methods of making it.
  • a piece of jewelry according to the invention is of the known type comprising an external ring and a coaxial internal ring which are rotatably mounted with respect to each other about their common axis.
  • the object of the invention is achieved by means of a circular jewel, comprising an outer ring and an inner ring coaxial and mounted to rotate relative to each other about their common axis, as described in the document.
  • US. 2.060.345 in which the internal ring comprises an internal ring having a central part which has an axial width slightly greater than the axial width of said external ring and an external diameter slightly less than the internal diameter of said external ring, said external ring engaging on said central part and said inner ring comprising at its two ends two thicker parts, so that these define with said inner ring a peripheral groove in which said outer ring is trapped and freely rotatable around the central part of said inner ring; according to the present invention, said central part is connected to at least one thinner end by a shoulder and at least one lateral ring engages on said thinner end, abuts against said shoulder, is welded to said internal ring, and forms at least one of said thick parts.
  • the internal ring comprises the central part placed between two thinner ends to which it is connected by two shoulders and said internal ring comprises two symmetrical lateral rings, which engage respectively on said thinner ends and which have each a flat internal side which rests against one of said shoulders, which lateral rings are welded to said internal ring, thus producing the two thicker parts described in the previous prior art, and delimit between them and with said central part a peripheral groove in which said external ring is trapped.
  • each of the side rings has, on its internal periphery, a groove in which a bead of solder paste is placed which makes it possible to weld said side ring to said central ring after having mounted the outer ring between said side rings.
  • the invention results in new circular jewels, in particular rings, alliances, bracelets or pendants which comprise two coaxial rings mounted pivoting with respect to each other, which allows the person wearing it this jewel to occupy his fingers to rotate the rotating part.
  • the jewels according to the invention are produced only by machining parts in the form of rings fitting these parts one on the other and welding two external rings, without resorting to any permanent deformation of the parts after assembly thereof.
  • Figure 1 is an axial section of a first embodiment of a jewel according to the invention.
  • Figure 2 is an axial section of a second embodiment of a jewel according to the invention.
  • Figure 3 is an exploded view, in axial section of a jewel according to Figure 1 during assembly.
  • Figure 4 is an axial half-section of a third embodiment of a circular jewel according to the invention.
  • FIG. 1 represents an axial section of a jewel of circular shape with axis xx1 which is, for example, a ring or an alliance or a bracelet.
  • This jewel comprises two coaxial rings, an outer ring 1 and an inner ring 2 which are rotatably mounted with respect to one another around their common axis xx1.
  • the internal ring comprises an internal ring 3 and two lateral rings 4a and 4b.
  • the inner ring 3 has a central part 3a which is connected to two thinner side parts 3b and 3c by two shoulders 5a and 5b.
  • Figure 3 is an exploded view which represents the constituent parts of a jewel according to Figure 1 before assembly.
  • the industrial manufacturing process for a piece of jewelry according to FIGS. 1 and 3 comprises the following operations.
  • An inner ring 2 of precious metal is machined which has a central part 3a placed between two thinner ends 3c, 3b, so that the central part is connected to the two ends by two shoulders 5a and 5b.
  • the machining is carried out with great precision, so that the axial length l of the central part, which is the distance which separates the two shoulders, is well determined, with a very small tolerance, of the order of 0.1 mm.
  • the external diameter of the central part 3a is also machined with great precision.
  • Two side rings 4a, 4b made of precious metal are machined separately which, for example, have the shape of a quarter round and which are symmetrical with respect to a plane perpendicular to their axis.
  • the central flanks of the two lateral rings that is to say the flanks placed opposite one another, are in planes perpendicular to the axis xx1.
  • the internal diameter of the rings 4a, 4b is slightly greater than the external diameter of the ends 3b and 3c of the internal ring.
  • the outer ring 1 is delimited by two parallel lateral flanks 1a, 1b which are perpendicular to the axis xx1 and which are machined with very high precision, so that the width l1 of the ring is very slightly less than the axial width l of the central part 3a of the inner ring.
  • a peripheral groove 6a, 6b is machined in the internal face of each outer ring, into which a bead of solder paste is inserted which corresponds to the nature of the precious metal making up the rings.
  • the outer ring 1 can be a simple precious metal ring. It can also include a set of precious stones embedded in the metal.
  • the external ring 1 is engaged on the central part 3a of the internal ring, on which it is fitted with a small clearance, sufficient for the two parts to be able to rotate freely with respect to the other.
  • the two outer rings are then threaded respectively onto each of the ends 3b and 3c of the inner ring until they come into abutment against the shoulders 5a and 5b. They are kept tight against the shoulders, for example by means of pliers or a clamp and the jewel is introduced into a solder oven, so that the solder paste which has been placed in the grooves 6a and 6b welds the side rings 4a and 4b on the inner ring 3 with which they then form a single piece.
  • the lateral rings 4a, 4b delimit between them a peripheral groove in which the outer ring 1 is held captive, since the internal diameter of the ring 1 is much smaller than the external diameter of the lateral rings 4a and 4b.
  • the width of the peripheral groove corresponds to the axial width 1 of the central part 3a of the inner ring, so that the outer ring 1, whose axial width l1 is very slightly less than the width of the groove can rotate freely in the latter being guided by the sides of the two lateral rings 4a and 4b.
  • the method according to the invention makes it possible to make jewelry comprising a rotating outer ring without having to deform the outer ring or the inner ring.
  • Figures 1 to 3 show embodiments in which the side rings 4a, 4b can be composed of different precious metals or different colors to give the jewelry a particular external appearance.
  • the internal ring when the internal ring is made of a single metal, it may comprise a single side ring, for example the ring 4a, while the other side ring 4b is integral with the internal ring 3.
  • an inner ring is machined which has a central part 3a which is connected by one of its ends to a thinner end 3b by a shoulder 5a and which is connected by the opposite end to a thicker part 4b with which it forms body, which is machined externally to have the same appearance as the ring 4a, for example in the form of a quarter of a circle as shown in FIGS. 1 and 3.
  • FIG. 2 represents another embodiment of a circular piece of jewelry according to the invention.
  • the jewel according to FIG. 2 comprises a first pair of lateral rings 7a, 7b limited by two flanks parallel and perpendicular to the axis xx1 and a second pair of lateral rings 4a, 4b, which allows to give the jewel a different surface appearance.
  • the internal lateral rings 7a, 7b are simply threaded onto the ends 3b and 3c of the internal ring and held in abutment against the shoulders 5a, 5b. They delimit the peripheral groove in which the external ring 1 rotates.
  • the external lateral rings 4a and 4b are welded to the ends 3b and 3c of the internal ring and they hold the various parts assembled.
  • Figure 4 is an axial half-section of a third embodiment of a circular jewel according to the invention which comprises an outer ring 1 pivotally mounted on an annular mount 2.
  • the homologous parts are represented by the same references on the Figures 1, 2 and 4.
  • the annular mount is similar to that of FIG. 2. It has an internal ring 3, two intermediate rings 7a, 7b and two lateral rings 4a, 4b which are welded to the two lateral ends 3b, 3c of the internal ring.
  • the difference with the embodiment according to FIG. 3 lies in the fact that the external ring 1 has an internal recess 8, which is delimited for example by a circular internal surface 9 or by a stepped surface.
  • the surface of the outer ring which is in contact with the outer face of the ring 3a is reduced to two rings 10a and 10b, which has the effect of reducing the friction between the two parts and therefore allowing to rotate the outer ring 1 with very little effort and to reduce wear due to friction.
  • a recess 8 has the advantage of reducing the weight of precious metal used in the manufacture of the outer ring 1 without modifying the external appearance of the jewel.

Abstract

The subject of the invention is circular jewels comprising a rotary outer ring and methods for manufacturing these jewels. A circular jewel according to the invention comprises an outer ring (1) which is coaxial with an inner ring (2) and mounted rotatably about the common axis (xx1). The inner ring comprises an inner hoop (3) comprising a central part (3a) placed between two thinner ends (3b, 3c) to which it is connected by two shoulders (5a, 5b). It also comprises two lateral hoops (4a, 4b) which bear against the two shoulders (5a and 5b) and are welded onto the ends (3b and 3c) after having engaged the outer ring (1) on the central part (3a). The ring (1) is held trapped in the groove delimited by the two lateral hoops in which it can turn freely. One application is the industrial production of finger-rings, wedding rings, bracelets or pendants. <IMAGE>

Description

La présente invention a pour objet des bijoux de forme circulaire tels que des bagues, des bracelets ou des pendentifs comportant un anneau externe rotatif et des procédés de fabrication de ces bijoux.The subject of the present invention is jewelry of circular shape such as rings, bracelets or pendants comprising a rotating external ring and methods of manufacturing this jewelry.

Le secteur technique de l'invention est celui de la confection des bijoux.The technical sector of the invention is that of making jewelry.

On connaît déjà des bijoux de forme circulaire tels que des bagues ou des bracelets comportant un anneau esterne rotatif.Circular jewelry is already known, such as rings or bracelets comprising a rotating estern ring.

Le brevet U.S. 2.060.345 (Ch. PHILIPPS) décrit des bijoux, notamment des bagues ou des bracelets, qui comportent un anneau externe sur lequel peuvent être serties des pierres précieuses, qui est monté sur un anneau interne concentrique, autour duquel il peut tourner librement.US Patent 2,060,345 (Ch. PHILIPPS) describes jewelry, in particular rings or bracelets, which have an external ring on which gemstones can be set, which is mounted on a concentric internal ring, around which it can rotate freely.

Selon un mode de réalisation, les deux anneaux sont constitués de matériaux ayant un faible coefficient de frottement, par exemple de celluloïd.According to one embodiment, the two rings are made of materials having a low coefficient of friction, for example celluloid.

Si les deux anneaux sont métalliques, on intercale entre eux un dispositif anti-friction par exemple un roulement à billes. Afin de pouvoir assembler les deux anneaux l'un d'entre eux, de préférence l'anneau interne, est fendu de telle sorte qu'il peut être rétreint pour être inséré dans l'anneau externe. Le but recherché est de procurer des bijoux qui permettent de faire varier la partie de l'anneau externe qui est présentée aux regards.If the two rings are metallic, an anti-friction device is inserted between them, for example a ball bearing. In order to be able to assemble the two rings, one of them, preferably the internal ring, is split so that it can be constricted to be inserted in the external ring. The goal is to provide jewelry that can vary the part of the outer ring that is presented to the eye.

Le brevet U.S. 2.453.955 (J. YOUNGHUSBAND) décrit une bague qui comporte plusieurs pierres précieuses et un couvercle qui est monté rotatif autour d'une partie de ladite bague, ce qui permet de couvrir ou de découvrir successivement plusieurs pierres afin de servir d'aide mémoire.US Patent 2,453,955 (J. YOUNGHUSBAND) describes a ring which comprises several precious stones and a cover which is rotatably mounted around a part of said ring, which makes it possible to cover or discover successively several stones in order to serve as memory aid.

Le brevet U.S. 1.327.606 (S. BACHARACH) décrit des alliances qui sont composées de trois anneaux : un anneau central qui comporte une paire de collerettes et deux anneaux latéraux qui comportent chacun une gorge, dans laquelle pénètre une desdites collerettes, de sorte que les trois anneaux peuvent tourner les uns par rapport aux autres.US Patent 1,327,606 (S. BACHARACH) describes alliances which are composed of three rings: a central ring which comprises a pair of flanges and two lateral rings which each have a groove, into which one of said flanges penetrates, so that the three rings can rotate relative to each other.

Le but poursuivi est de permettre de répartir l'usure sur toute la périphérie de la bague. L'anneau interne a initialement un diamètre externe inférieur au diamètre interne de l'une des lèvres qui délimite chacune des gorges des anneaux externes et on déforme l'anneau interne afin d'augmenter son diamètre.The aim is to allow the wear to be distributed over the entire periphery of the ring. The internal ring initially has an external diameter smaller than the internal diameter of one of the lips which delimits each of the grooves of the external rings and the internal ring is deformed in order to increase its diameter.

Le brevet FR. 634.323 décrit des alliances formées de deux anneaux concentriques, de matière différente, dans le but de simplifier la fabrication.The FR patent. 634.323 describes alliances formed of two concentric rings, of different material, in order to simplify the manufacture.

L'anneau interne comporte une gorge dans laquelle on engage un anneau externe qui a un diamètre extérieur initial légèrement supérieur au diamètre externe de l'anneau interne et qui est ensuite rétreint de manière à s'ajuster solidement dans la gorge.The internal ring has a groove in which an external ring is engaged which has an initial external diameter slightly greater than the external diameter of the internal ring and which is then constricted so as to fit securely in the groove.

En variante, on peut dilater l'anneau interne. L'anneau externe ne tourne pas dans l'anneau interne.Alternatively, the internal ring can be dilated. The outer ring does not rotate in the inner ring.

Les documents antérieurs cités ci-dessus montrent qu'il est connu de confectionner des bijoux circulaires, notamment des bagues, comportant deux anneaux coaxiaux qui peuvent tourner l'un par rapport à l'autre autour de leur axe commun dans le but de répartir l'usure ou de permettre de modifier l'aspect ornemental de la bague.The prior documents cited above show that it is known to make circular jewelry, in particular rings, comprising two coaxial rings which can rotate relative to each other about their common axis in order to distribute the 'wear or allow to modify the ornamental aspect of the ring.

Le but de la présente invention est différent.The object of the present invention is different.

L'expérience montre que, pour des raisons diverses, certaines personnes aiment porter des bijoux, notamment des bagues, des bracelets ou des pendentifs qui comportent une partie rotative, ce qui leur permet d'occuper leurs doigts à faire tourner celle-ci et l'objectif de la présente invention est de procurer des bijoux qui présentent cette particularité et des procédés de fabrication de ceux-ci.Experience shows that, for various reasons, some people like to wear jewelry, in particular rings, bracelets or pendants which have a rotating part, which allows them to occupy their fingers to rotate it and the The object of the present invention is to provide jewelry which has this feature and methods of making it.

Un bijou selon l'invention est du type connu comportant un anneau externe et un anneau interne coaxiaux qui sont montés rotatifs l'un par rapport à l'autre autour de leur axe commun.A piece of jewelry according to the invention is of the known type comprising an external ring and a coaxial internal ring which are rotatably mounted with respect to each other about their common axis.

L'objectif de l'invention est atteint au moyen d'un bijou circulaire, comportant un anneau externe et un anneau interne coaxiaux et montés rotatifs l'un par rapport à l'autre autour de leur axe commun, tel que décrit dans le document US. 2.060.345 dans lequel l'anneau interne comporte une bague interne ayant une partie centrale qui a une largeur axiale légèrement supérieure à la largeur axiale dudit anneau externe et un diamètre externe légèrement inférieur au diamètre interne dudit anneau externe, ledit anneau externe s engageant sur ladite partie centrale et ladite bague interne comportant à ses deux extrémités deux parties plus épaisses, de telle sorte que celles-ci délimitent avec ladite bague interne une gorge périphérique dans laquelle ledit anneau externe est prisonnier et librement rotatif autour de la partie centrale de ladite bague interne ; suivant la présente invention, ladite partie centrale se raccorde à au moins une extrémité plus mince par un épaulement et au moins une bague latérale s'engage sur ladite extrémité plus mince, vient en butée contre ledit épaulement, se soude à ladite bague interne, et forme au moins une desdites parties épaisses.The object of the invention is achieved by means of a circular jewel, comprising an outer ring and an inner ring coaxial and mounted to rotate relative to each other about their common axis, as described in the document. US. 2.060.345 in which the internal ring comprises an internal ring having a central part which has an axial width slightly greater than the axial width of said external ring and an external diameter slightly less than the internal diameter of said external ring, said external ring engaging on said central part and said inner ring comprising at its two ends two thicker parts, so that these define with said inner ring a peripheral groove in which said outer ring is trapped and freely rotatable around the central part of said inner ring; according to the present invention, said central part is connected to at least one thinner end by a shoulder and at least one lateral ring engages on said thinner end, abuts against said shoulder, is welded to said internal ring, and forms at least one of said thick parts.

Selon un mode de réalisation préférentiel, la bague interne comporte la partie centrale placée entre deux extrémités plus minces auxquelles elle se raccorde par deux épaulements et ledit anneau interne comporte deux bagues latérales symétriques, qui s'engagent respectivement sur lesdites extrémités plus minces et qui ont chacune un flanc interne plan qui s'appuie contre l'un desdits épaulements, lesquelles bagues latérales se soudent sur ladite bague interne, réalisent ainsi les deux parties plus épaisses décrites dans l'art antérieur précédent, et délimitent entre elles et avec ladite partie centrale une gorge périphérique dans laquelle est prisonnier ledit anneau externe.According to a preferred embodiment, the internal ring comprises the central part placed between two thinner ends to which it is connected by two shoulders and said internal ring comprises two symmetrical lateral rings, which engage respectively on said thinner ends and which have each a flat internal side which rests against one of said shoulders, which lateral rings are welded to said internal ring, thus producing the two thicker parts described in the previous prior art, and delimit between them and with said central part a peripheral groove in which said external ring is trapped.

Avantageusement, chacune des bagues latérales comporte, sur sa périphérie interne, une gorge dans laquelle on place un cordon de pâte à souder qui permet de souder ladite bague latérale à ladite bague centrale après avoir monté l'anneau externe entre lesdites bagues latérales.Advantageously, each of the side rings has, on its internal periphery, a groove in which a bead of solder paste is placed which makes it possible to weld said side ring to said central ring after having mounted the outer ring between said side rings.

Un premier procédé de fabrication d'un bijou circulaire selon l'invention comporte les opérations suivantes :

  • on usine un anneau externe ayant une largeur axiale et un diamètre interne bien déterminés;
  • on usine une bague interne comportant une partie centrale ayant une largeur axiale légèrement supérieure à la largeur axiale dudit anneau externe, et un diamètre externe légèrement inférieur au diamètre interne dudit anneau externe et comportant une extrémité plus mince qui se raccorde à ladite partie centrale par un épaulement;
  • on usine une bague latérale ayant un diamètre interne légèrement supérieur au diamètre externe de ladite extrémité plus mince et un flanc latéral plan ;
  • on engage ledit anneau externe sur ladite partie centrale puis on engage ladite bague latérale sur ladite extrémité plus mince jusqu'à ce que son flanc plan vienne au contact dudit épaulement et on la soude à ladite bague interne dans cette position.
A first method of manufacturing a circular piece of jewelry according to the invention comprises the following operations:
  • an external ring having a well-defined axial width and internal diameter is machined;
  • an inner ring is machined comprising a central part having an axial width slightly greater than the axial width of said external ring, and an external diameter slightly less than the internal diameter of said external ring and comprising a thinner end which is connected to said central part by a shoulder;
  • a side ring is machined having an internal diameter slightly greater than the external diameter of said thinner end and a flat lateral flank;
  • engaging said outer ring on said central portion and then engaging said side ring on said thinner end until its flat side comes into contact with said shoulder and it is welded to said inner ring in this position.

Un deuxième procédé de fabrication d'un bijou circulaire selon l'invention comporte les opérations suivantes :

  • on usine une bague interne comportant une partie centrale qui se raccorde à deux parties latérales plus minces par deux épaulements séparés par une distance bien déterminée;
  • on usine un anneau externe ayant une largeur axiale bien déterminée qui est très légèrement inférieure à la distance entre lesdits épaulements;
  • on usine deux bagues latérales symétriques comportant chacune une gorge périphérique interne et un flanc latéral interne plan;
  • on place dans lesdites gorges périphériques un cordon de pâte à souder;
  • on enfile ledit anneau externe sur la partie centrale de la bague interne, puis on enfile sur celle-ci, respectivement de chaque côté dudit anneau externe, les deux bagues latérales jusqu'à ce qu'elles viennent en butée contre lesdits épaulements;
  • et on introduit le bijou dans un four de soudure puis on le sort de celui-ci.
A second method of manufacturing a circular piece of jewelry according to the invention comprises the following operations:
  • an internal ring is machined comprising a central part which is connected to two thinner lateral parts by two shoulders separated by a well-determined distance;
  • an outer ring is machined having a well-defined axial width which is very slightly less than the distance between said shoulders;
  • two symmetrical lateral rings are each machined, comprising an internal peripheral groove and a flat internal lateral flank;
  • a bead of solder paste is placed in said peripheral grooves;
  • said outer ring is threaded onto the central part of the inner ring, then the two lateral rings are threaded thereon, respectively on each side of said outer ring until they come into abutment against said shoulders;
  • and the jewel is introduced into a soldering oven and then taken out of it.

L'invention a pour résultat de nouveaux bijoux circulaires, notamment des bagues, des alliances, des bracelets ou des pendentifs qui comportent deux anneaux coaxiaux montés pivotants l'un par rapport à l'autre, ce qui permet à la personne qui porte sur elle ce bijou d'occuper ses doigts à faire pivoter la partie tournante.The invention results in new circular jewels, in particular rings, alliances, bracelets or pendants which comprise two coaxial rings mounted pivoting with respect to each other, which allows the person wearing it this jewel to occupy his fingers to rotate the rotating part.

Les bijoux selon l'invention sont fabriqués uniquement par usinage de pièces en forme de bagues emmanchement de ces pièces les unes sur les autres et soudure de deux bagues externes, sans recourir à aucune déformation permanente des pièces après assemblage de celles-ci.The jewels according to the invention are produced only by machining parts in the form of rings fitting these parts one on the other and welding two external rings, without resorting to any permanent deformation of the parts after assembly thereof.

La description suivante se réfère aux dessins annexés qui représentent, sans aucun caractère limitatif, des exemples de réalisation de bijoux selon l'invention.The following description refers to the appended drawings which represent, without any limiting character, examples of production of jewelry according to the invention.

La figure 1 est une coupe axiale d'un premier mode de réalisation d'un bijou selon l'invention.Figure 1 is an axial section of a first embodiment of a jewel according to the invention.

La figure 2 est une coupe axiale d'un deuxième mode de réalisation d'un bijou selon l'invention.Figure 2 is an axial section of a second embodiment of a jewel according to the invention.

La figure 3 est une vue éclatée, en coupe axiale d'un bijou selon la figure 1 en cours de montage.Figure 3 is an exploded view, in axial section of a jewel according to Figure 1 during assembly.

La figure 4 est une demi-coupe axiale d'un troisième mode de réalistion d'un bijou circulaire selon l'invention.Figure 4 is an axial half-section of a third embodiment of a circular jewel according to the invention.

La figure 1 représente une coupe axiale d'un bijou de forme circulaire d'axe xx1 qui est, par exemple, une bague ou une alliance ou un bracelet.FIG. 1 represents an axial section of a jewel of circular shape with axis xx1 which is, for example, a ring or an alliance or a bracelet.

Ce bijou comporte deux anneaux coaxiaux, un anneau externe 1 et un anneau interne 2 qui sont montés rotatifs l'un par rapport à l'autre autour de leur axe commun xx1.This jewel comprises two coaxial rings, an outer ring 1 and an inner ring 2 which are rotatably mounted with respect to one another around their common axis xx1.

L'anneau interne comporte une bague interne 3 et deux bagues latérales 4a et 4b. La bague interne 3 comporte une partie centrale 3a qui se raccorde à deux parties latérales 3b et 3c plus minces par deux épaulements 5a et 5b.The internal ring comprises an internal ring 3 and two lateral rings 4a and 4b. The inner ring 3 has a central part 3a which is connected to two thinner side parts 3b and 3c by two shoulders 5a and 5b.

La figure 3 est une vue éclatée qui représente les parties constitutives d'un bijou selon la figure 1 avant assemblage.Figure 3 is an exploded view which represents the constituent parts of a jewel according to Figure 1 before assembly.

Le procédé de fabrication industrielle d'un bijou selon les figures 1 et 3 comporte les opérations suivantes.The industrial manufacturing process for a piece of jewelry according to FIGS. 1 and 3 comprises the following operations.

On usine une bague interne 2 en métal précieux qui comporte une partie centrale 3a placée entre deux extrémités plus minces 3c, 3b, de sorte que la partie centrale se raccorde aux deux extrémités par deux épaulements 5a et 5b.An inner ring 2 of precious metal is machined which has a central part 3a placed between two thinner ends 3c, 3b, so that the central part is connected to the two ends by two shoulders 5a and 5b.

L'usinage est réalisé avec une grande précision, de sorte que la longueur axiale l de la partie centrale, qui est la distance qui sépare les deux épaulements, est bien déterminée, avec une tolérance très faible, de l'ordre de 0,1 mm. Le diamètre externe de la partie centrale 3a est également usiné avec une grande précision.The machining is carried out with great precision, so that the axial length l of the central part, which is the distance which separates the two shoulders, is well determined, with a very small tolerance, of the order of 0.1 mm. The external diameter of the central part 3a is also machined with great precision.

On usine séparément deux bagues latérales 4a, 4b en métal précieux qui ont par exemple une forme de quart de rond et qui sont symétriques par rapport à un plan perpendiculaire à leur axe.Two side rings 4a, 4b made of precious metal are machined separately which, for example, have the shape of a quarter round and which are symmetrical with respect to a plane perpendicular to their axis.

Les flancs centraux des deux bagues latérales, c'est-à-dire les flancs placés en regard l'un de l'autre, sont dans des plans perpendiculaires à l'axe xx1.The central flanks of the two lateral rings, that is to say the flanks placed opposite one another, are in planes perpendicular to the axis xx1.

Le diamètre interne des bagues 4a, 4b est légèrement supérieure au diamètre externe des extrémités 3b et 3c de la bague interne.The internal diameter of the rings 4a, 4b is slightly greater than the external diameter of the ends 3b and 3c of the internal ring.

On usine également un anneau externe 1 en métal précieux ayant un diamètre interne qui est très légèrement supérieur au diamètre externe de la partie centrale 3a de la bague interne et qui est nettement inférieur au diamètre externe des bagues latérales.We also machine an outer ring 1 of precious metal having an inner diameter which is very slightly greater than the diameter outer part of the central part 3a of the inner ring and which is clearly smaller than the outer diameter of the lateral rings.

L'anneau externe 1 est délimitée par deux flancs latéraux parallèles 1a, 1b qui sont perpendiculaires à l'axe xx1 et qui sont usinées avec une très grande précision, de telle sorte que la largeur l₁ de l'anneau soit très légèrement inférieure à la largeur axiale l de la partie centrale 3a de la bague interne.The outer ring 1 is delimited by two parallel lateral flanks 1a, 1b which are perpendicular to the axis xx1 and which are machined with very high precision, so that the width l₁ of the ring is very slightly less than the axial width l of the central part 3a of the inner ring.

Avantageusement, on usine dans la face interne de chaque bague externe une gorge périphérique 6a, 6b, dans laquelle on insère un cordon de pâte à souder qui correspond à la nature du métal précieux composant les bagues.Advantageously, a peripheral groove 6a, 6b is machined in the internal face of each outer ring, into which a bead of solder paste is inserted which corresponds to the nature of the precious metal making up the rings.

L'anneau externe 1 peut être un simple anneau en métal précieux. Il peut également comporter une parure composée de pierres précieuses enchâssées dans le métal.The outer ring 1 can be a simple precious metal ring. It can also include a set of precious stones embedded in the metal.

Une fois les bagues usinées séparément, on engage l'anneau externe 1 sur la partie centrale 3a de la bague interne, sur laquelle il s'emmanche avec un faible jeu, suffisant pour que les deux pièces puissent tourner librement l'une par rapport à l'autre. On enfile ensuite les deux bagues externes respectivement sur chacune des extrémités 3b et 3c de la bague interne jusqu'à ce qu'elles viennent en butée contre les épaulements 5a et 5b. On les maintient serrées contre les épaulements, par exemple au moyen d'une pince ou d'un serre-joint et on introduit le bijou dans un four de soudure, de sorte que la pâte à souder qui a été placée dans les gorges 6a et 6b soude les bagues latérales 4a et 4b sur la bague interne 3 avec laquelle elles forment alors une seule pièce. Les bagues latérales 4a, 4b délimitent entre elles une gorge périphérique dans laquelle l'anneau externe 1 est maintenu prisonnier, car le diamètre interne de l'anneau 1 est nettement inférieur au diamètre externe des bagues latérales 4a et 4b.Once the rings are machined separately, the external ring 1 is engaged on the central part 3a of the internal ring, on which it is fitted with a small clearance, sufficient for the two parts to be able to rotate freely with respect to the other. The two outer rings are then threaded respectively onto each of the ends 3b and 3c of the inner ring until they come into abutment against the shoulders 5a and 5b. They are kept tight against the shoulders, for example by means of pliers or a clamp and the jewel is introduced into a solder oven, so that the solder paste which has been placed in the grooves 6a and 6b welds the side rings 4a and 4b on the inner ring 3 with which they then form a single piece. The lateral rings 4a, 4b delimit between them a peripheral groove in which the outer ring 1 is held captive, since the internal diameter of the ring 1 is much smaller than the external diameter of the lateral rings 4a and 4b.

La largeur de la gorge périphérique correspond à la largeur axiale 1 de la partie centrale 3a de la bague interne, de sorte que l'anneau externe 1, dont la largeur axiale l₁ est très légèrement inférieure à la largeur de la gorge peut tourner librement dans celle-ci en étant guidé par les flancs des deux bagues latérales 4a et 4b.The width of the peripheral groove corresponds to the axial width 1 of the central part 3a of the inner ring, so that the outer ring 1, whose axial width l₁ is very slightly less than the width of the groove can rotate freely in the latter being guided by the sides of the two lateral rings 4a and 4b.

A la différence des procédés connus antérieurement, le procédé selon l'invention permet de confectionner des bijoux comportant un anneau externe rotatif sans avoir à déformer l'anneau externe ni l'anneau interne.Unlike the previously known methods, the method according to the invention makes it possible to make jewelry comprising a rotating outer ring without having to deform the outer ring or the inner ring.

Les figures 1 à 3 représentent des modes de réalisation dans lesquels les bagues latérales 4a, 4b peuvent être composées de métaux précieux différents ou de différentes couleurs pour conférer au bijou un aspect extérieur particulier.Figures 1 to 3 show embodiments in which the side rings 4a, 4b can be composed of different precious metals or different colors to give the jewelry a particular external appearance.

En variante, lorsque l'anneau interne est composé d'un seul métal, il peut comporter une seule bague latérale, par exemple la bague 4a, tandis que l'autre bague latérale 4b est solidaire de la bague interne 3. Dans ce cas, on usine une bague interne qui comporte une partie centrale 3a qui se raccorde par l'une de ses extrémités à une extrémité plus mince 3b par un épaulement 5a et qui se raccorde par l'extrémité opposée à une partie plus épaisse 4b avec laquelle elle fait corps, qui est usinée extérieurement pour présenter le même aspect que la bague 4a, par exemple en forme de quart de cercle comme cela est représenté sur les figures 1 et 3.As a variant, when the internal ring is made of a single metal, it may comprise a single side ring, for example the ring 4a, while the other side ring 4b is integral with the internal ring 3. In this case, an inner ring is machined which has a central part 3a which is connected by one of its ends to a thinner end 3b by a shoulder 5a and which is connected by the opposite end to a thicker part 4b with which it forms body, which is machined externally to have the same appearance as the ring 4a, for example in the form of a quarter of a circle as shown in FIGS. 1 and 3.

La figure 2 représente un autre mode de réalisation d'un bijou circulaire selon l'invention.FIG. 2 represents another embodiment of a circular piece of jewelry according to the invention.

Les parties homologues sont représentées par les mêmes repères.The homologous parts are represented by the same marks.

La seule différence réside dans le fait que le bijou selon la figure 2 comporte une première paire de bagues latérales 7a, 7b limitées par deux flancs parallèles et perpendiculaires à l'axe xx1 et une deuxième paire de bagues latérales 4a, 4b, ce qui permet de conférer au bijou un aspect de surface différent.The only difference lies in the fact that the jewel according to FIG. 2 comprises a first pair of lateral rings 7a, 7b limited by two flanks parallel and perpendicular to the axis xx1 and a second pair of lateral rings 4a, 4b, which allows to give the jewel a different surface appearance.

Les bagues latérales internes 7a, 7b sont simplement enfilées sur les extrémités 3b et 3c de la bague interne et maintenues en butée contre les épaulements 5a, 5b. Elles délimitent la gorge périphérique dans laquelle tourne l'anneau externe 1. Les bagues latérales externes 4a et 4b sont soudées sur les extrémités 3b et 3c de la bague interne et elles maintiennent les diverses pièces assemblées.The internal lateral rings 7a, 7b are simply threaded onto the ends 3b and 3c of the internal ring and held in abutment against the shoulders 5a, 5b. They delimit the peripheral groove in which the external ring 1 rotates. The external lateral rings 4a and 4b are welded to the ends 3b and 3c of the internal ring and they hold the various parts assembled.

La figure 4 est une demi-coupe axiale d'un troisième mode de réalisation d'un bijou circulaire selon l'invention qui comporte un anneau externe 1 monté pivotant sur une monture annulaire 2. Les parties homologues sont représentées par les mêmes repères sur les figures 1, 2 et 4.Figure 4 is an axial half-section of a third embodiment of a circular jewel according to the invention which comprises an outer ring 1 pivotally mounted on an annular mount 2. The homologous parts are represented by the same references on the Figures 1, 2 and 4.

La monture annulaire est semblable à celle de la figure 2. Elle comporte une bague interne 3, deux bagues intermédiaires 7a, 7b et deux bagues latérales 4a, 4b qui sont soudées sur les deux extrémités latérales 3b, 3c de la bague interne.The annular mount is similar to that of FIG. 2. It has an internal ring 3, two intermediate rings 7a, 7b and two lateral rings 4a, 4b which are welded to the two lateral ends 3b, 3c of the internal ring.

La différence avec le mode de réalisation selon la figure 3 réside dans le fait que l'anneau externe 1 comporte un évidement interne 8, qui est délimité par exemple par une surface interne circulaire 9 ou par une surface en escalier. Il en résulte que la surface de l'anneau externe qui est en contact avec la face externe de la bague 3a, est réduite à deux anneaux 10a et 10b, ce qui a pour effet de diminuer les frottements entre les deux pièces et donc de permettre de faire tourner l'anneau externe 1 en exerçant un effort très faible et de réduire l'usure due aux frottements.The difference with the embodiment according to FIG. 3 lies in the fact that the external ring 1 has an internal recess 8, which is delimited for example by a circular internal surface 9 or by a stepped surface. As a result, the surface of the outer ring which is in contact with the outer face of the ring 3a is reduced to two rings 10a and 10b, which has the effect of reducing the friction between the two parts and therefore allowing to rotate the outer ring 1 with very little effort and to reduce wear due to friction.

De plus, la présence d'un évidement 8 présente l'avantage de réduire le poids de métal précieux entrant dans la fabrication de l'anneau externe 1 sans modifier l'aspect extérieur du bijou.In addition, the presence of a recess 8 has the advantage of reducing the weight of precious metal used in the manufacture of the outer ring 1 without modifying the external appearance of the jewel.

Claims (8)

  1. Circular jewel comprising an outer collar (1) and an inner collar (2) which are co-axial and rotatable one with respect to the other about their common axis (xx1), such that the inner collar comprises an inner ring (3) having a central portion (3a), which has an axial width (1) slightly greater than the axial width (1₁) of said outer collar and an external diameter which is slightly less than the internal diameter of said outer collar, said outer collar (1) being engageable on said central portion (3a) and said inner ring (3) comprising two thicker portions at its two ends, such that said portions define with said inner ring a peripheral groove in which said outer collar is fixed and free to rotate about the central portion of said inner ring, characterized in that said central portion (3a) is joined to at least one thinner end (3b) by a shoulder (5a) and in that at least one lateral ring (4a) is engaged on said thinner end (3b), abuts against said shoulder (5a), is joined to said inner ring and forms at least one of said thick portions.
  2. Circular jewel according to claim 1, characterized in that said inner ring (3) comprises said central portion (3a) placed between two thinner ends (3b, 3c), to which it is fitted by two shoulders (5a, 5b) and said inner collar comprises two lateral rings (4a, 4b) which are respectively engaged on said thinner ends (3b, 3c) and each of which has a plane inner side which abuts against one of said shoulders, said lateral rings are joined to said inner ring and define together and with said central portion (3a) said peripheral groove in which said outer collar (1) is fixed and free to rotate about said central portion (3a).
  3. Jewel according to claim 2, characterized in that each of said lateral rings (4a, 4b) comprises, on its inner periphery, a groove (6a, 6b) in which a bead of weld paste makes it possible to weld said lateral ring to said inner ring (3), said outer collar (1) being fixed between said lateral rings (4a, 4b).
  4. Jewel according to any one of claims 2 and 3, characterized in that said inner collar (2) comprises a first pair of lateral rings (7a, 7b) which abut against said shoulders (5a, 5b) and a second pair of lateral rings (4a, 4b) which abut against the first rings and which are welded to said inner ring (3).
  5. Jewel according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the outer collar (1) is defined by two lateral sides which are perpendicular to the axis.
  6. Circular jewel according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the outer collar (1) comprises an inner recess (8) which reduces the friction surface and the weight of precious metals.
  7. Process for manufacturing a circular jewel according to claim 1, comprising an outer collar (1) and an inner collar (2) which are co-axial and rotatable one with respect to the other about their common axis (xx1), comprising the steps of:
    - machining an outer collar (1) which has a well determined axial width (1₁) and internal diameter;
    - machining an inner ring (3) which comprises a central portion (3a) having an axial width (1₁) which is slightly greater than the axial width (1₁) of said outer collar, and an external diameter which is slightly less than the internal diameter of said outer collar (1) and which comprises a thinner end (3a) which is joined to said central portion by a shoulder (5a);
    - machining a lateral ring (4a) having an internal diameter which is slightly greater than the external diameter of said thinner end (3b) and a plane lateral side;
    - engaging said inner collar (1)on said central portion (3a) and then engaging said lateral ring on said thinner end (3b) until its plane side comes into contact with said shoulder (5a) and welding said inner ring in this position.
  8. Process for manufacturing a circular jewel according to claim 2, comprising an outer collar (1) and an inner collar (2) which are co-axial and rotatable one with respect to the other about their common axis (xx1), comprising the steps of:
    - machining an inner ring (3) which comprises a central portion (3a) which is joined to two thinner lateral portions (3b, 3c) by two shoulders (5a, 5b) separated by a well determined distance (1);
    - machining an outer collar (1) having a well determined axial width (1₁) which is very slightly less than the distance (1) between said shoulders;
    - machining two symmetrical lateral rings (4a, 4b) each of which comprises an inner peripheral groove (6a, 6b) and an inner plane lateral side;
    - placing a bead of weld paste inside said peripheral grooves;
    - threading said outer collar (1) on the central portion (3a) of the inner ring (3), and then threading the two lateral rings (4a, 4b) respectively on each side of said outer collar until they abut against said shoulders;
    - and introducing the jewel into a welding furnace and removing same.
EP91430021A 1990-03-02 1991-08-01 Ringshape jewellery with an external ring rotatively mounted and manufacturing of the same Expired - Lifetime EP0529168B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9002984A FR2659000B1 (en) 1990-03-02 1990-03-02 CIRCULAR JEWELRY COMPRISING A ROTATING EXTERNAL RING AND MANUFACTURING METHOD.

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EP0529168B1 true EP0529168B1 (en) 1994-10-26

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EP (1) EP0529168B1 (en)
AT (1) ATE113176T1 (en)
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DK (1) DK0529168T3 (en)
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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
EP0529168A1 (en) 1993-03-03
DK0529168T3 (en) 1995-04-24
FR2659000B1 (en) 1992-07-03
DE69104831T2 (en) 1995-04-27
ES2064970T3 (en) 1995-02-01
FR2659000A1 (en) 1991-09-06
DE69104831D1 (en) 1994-12-01
US5161392A (en) 1992-11-10
ATE113176T1 (en) 1994-11-15

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