Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
  • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
  • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

• the present invention relates to new makeup compositions, comprising fatty acid / basic amino acid associations, involved in the fixation of water-soluble coloring matters on the skin.
• the present invention relates, in particular, to new makeup products such as: lipsticks, lip pencils, eye products such as mascaras and eye liners, as well as foundations, the dyes of which are water-soluble, with fixing improved and more sustainable; it also relates to make-up removal preparations intended for the removal of the products listed above.
• the present invention relates, firstly, to make-up products with a high capacity for fixing dyes to the skin, characterized in that they contain, as active agent intervening in the fixing of dyes, from 2 to 25%. , by weight, of a compound resulting from the association of a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, from C 14 to C 22 , either without leaving water, with a basic amino acid, or with leaving water, with an organic base.
• a compound resulting from the association of a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, from C 14 to C 22 either without leaving water, with a basic amino acid, or with leaving water, with an organic base.
• the basic amino acid use will preferably be made of lysine or arginine.
• the biological base use will preferably be made of choline.
• the content of active agent will be between 5 and 20%.
• arginine salts of fatty acids can only be used in the absence of pigments or lacquers, due to incompatibilities with this type of coloring matter. It will therefore be advisable, in this case, to be limited to the fatty acid salts of lysine.
• the fatty acid / basic amino acid associations are salts obtained, without leaving water, corresponding to the following formula: R .. -COOH, H 2 NR, - COOH
• R ⁇ represents a saturated or unsaturated fatty chain comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and R 2 , the hydrocarbon chain of lysine or arginine, or even the guanidyl fraction of the latter.
• R 1 represents the fatty chain defined above.
• oleic or ricinoleic acid will be used because of the emollient nature of this type of fatty acids.
• the present invention has a first advantage, which is to solve a problem which has not been possible so far, that is to say the lasting fixation of dyes on the mucous membranes of the lips or on the skin thanks to the 'incorporation in a fat mass, water-soluble coloring matters which can be dissolved by certain fatty salts of basic amino acids or choline.
• the present invention has a second advantage, that of fixing to the skin, including the lips in particular, not only the water-soluble dyes, but also of allowing a fixing of the lacquers and pigments, this contrary to what we knew how to do until here.
• make-up removal is obtained without difficulty using lotions or solutions containing a sufficient quantity of the same agent as defined above for fixing the dyes, lacquers and pigments.
• the present invention therefore also relates to compositions intended for eliminating all coloring matters fixed on the skin, such as those used for make-up or for hair dyes and containing, as active agent, from 2 to 25% by weight of a compound resulting from the association of a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid from C 14 to C 22 , either without leaving water with a basic amino acid, or with leaving water, with a biological base.
• the content of active agent will be of the order of 10%.
• These compositions will be in liquid form such as solutions, lotions, milks or the like.
• the makeup products according to the invention such as lipsticks and lip pencils, products for the eyes, mascara in particular, will be obtained by dissolving the water-soluble dyes in the combinations described by the invention to constitute a colored hydrophilic base and in incorporating an appropriate amount of said base into various varied media consisting of different fatty substances: vegetable or mineral waxes, vegetable oils, to form the desired cosmetic product.
• ricinoleic acid is preferred to oleic acid.
• the products will be protected against oxidation if the associated basic fraction is lysine, arginine or choline.
• Water-soluble dyes are dissolved in bai ⁇ -marie, such as bro ofluoresceins called RED 20 R, RED 21 R or tartrazine, orange 1 etc, at a rate of 5 to 20%, either in lysine oleate, or choline, in the presence of a polyalcohol such as glycerol, to reduce the viscosity of the medium; or, if one wishes to increase the emollient character, by replacing the oleate with ricinoleate; the oleate or ricinoleate - glycerol dye assembly is heated to around 60/70 °. A highly colored and transparent medium is obtained, showing the good solubilization of the coloring matter.
• a polyalcohol such as glycerol
• This set, or colored hydrophilic base is added, in proportions of 2 to 30%, in a fatty substrate for lipstick, comprising pigments and lacquers, under the conditions generally practiced by those skilled in the art.
• a fatty substrate for lipstick comprising pigments and lacquers, under the conditions generally practiced by those skilled in the art.
• the substrate used is based on waxes and the mixed product is then extruded.
• the appropriate substrate will be used each time.
• a lipstick is thus obtained which, after application, leads after twenty minutes to good fixation on the mucosa, the fixed coloring matters not leaving traces on objects such as glass, cup or towel.
• Example 2 60 g of lysine oleate with 20 g of glycerol are mixed in a water bath, at around 60 °; 20 g of dibromofluorescein are added.
• This base will be added in proportions of 5 to 20% to a mixture of fatty substances suitable for lipstick, containing pigments or lacquers, or the mixture of the two.
• the mixture thus obtained will be poured into molds. (Proportions of the association according to the invention: 3 to 12%).
• this base will be incorporated into a wax-based substrate, in proportions of between 15 and 30%, then the mixture will be extruded. (Proportions of the association according to the invention: 12 to 18%).
• Example 2 60 g of arginine oleate and 20 g of propylene glycol are mixed in a water bath at 60 °. 20 g of water-soluble dyes are added: bromofluoresceins, Ponceau 2 R, bengal rose or others.
• This colored base is added at a rate of 5 to 20% in an appropriate mixture of fatty substances for lipstick, containing neither pigments nor lacquers. Lipsticks are thus produced containing only water-soluble dyes. (Proportions of the association according to the invention: 3.5 to 14%).
• EXAMPLE 3 70 g of choline ricinoleate, 10 g of glycerol and 20 g of water are mixed in a water bath at 60/70 °. bromofluorescein with or without other water-soluble dyes.
• This base is incorporated up to 30% in a mascara substrate, based on water, waxes, kaolin, as is known to those skilled in the art. (Proportions of the association according to the invention: 21%).
• this base is incorporated to the extent of 25% in a substrate for an eyeliner based on water, lanolin-polyethylene glycol bentonite and stearin, as is known to those skilled in the art. art. (Proportion of the association according to the invention: 17.5%).
• compositions making it possible to remove fixed dyes from the skin or mucous membranes, it is possible, for example, to use the following preparations:
• Example 4 10 g of lysine oleate are dissolved in 80 ml of water; 10 g of glycerol and the excipients (stabilizers, perfumes and, optionally, preservatives), usually used in cosmetics, are added.
• the excipients stabilizers, perfumes and, optionally, preservatives
• Example 5 20 g of choline ricinoleate or lysine ricinoleate are introduced into 50 ml of water to which 30 g of dipropylene glycol are added; complete with ethanol.
• Example 6 - 20 g of arginine ricinoleate are introduced into 60 ml of water, to which 30 g of dipropylene glycol are added, as well as the usual excipients.
• Example 7 - 20 g of choline oleate are introduced into 60 ml of water, to which 30 g of monopropylene glycol are added, as well as the usual excipients.
• This preparation is not intended to be used as it is, but to be added either to a milk base, in a weightable proportion of the order of half, or to a base of carboxy methyl cellulose gel, also in weightable proportion, in the order of half.

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
• Epidemiology (AREA)
• Cosmetics (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=9410229

Family Applications (1)

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• 1991
  • 1991-03-01 FR FR9102446A patent/FR2673373B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
• 1992
  • 1992-02-28 EP EP19920907569 patent/EP0528014A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 1992-02-28 JP JP92506898A patent/JPH05506460A/ja active Pending
  • 1992-02-28 WO PCT/FR1992/000184 patent/WO1992015277A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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