WO2006097350A1 - Anhydrous cosmetic composition containing an agent for promoting the microcirculation and a polyol, uses thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic comprising at least one fatty phase containing at least 0.5% by weight of at least one polyol, and at least one agent for promoting the blood microcirculation of keratin materials to which or in the vicinity of which said composition is applied. The polyol may be liquid at ambient temperature. This composition may be a makeup or care composition for keratin materials, such as the lips, the eyelashes, the nails or the skin, and may be in the form of a stick, in particular of a lipstick or of a lip balm.

Description

ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING AN AGENT FOR PROMOTING THE MICROCIRCULATION AND A POLYOL,

USES THEREOF

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition containing at least one agent for promoting the microcirculation. This composition may be in the form of a homogeneous anhydrous gel, cream or stick containing this active agent.

It is intended to be applied to keratin materials of human beings, such as the skin, the lips, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails and the hair. The composition of the invention may in particular constitute a makeup and/or care product for the body, the lips or the integuments of human beings.

The composition of the invention may in particular constitute a product for coating keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair, and more particularly the eyelashes. The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a mascara, of a product for the eyebrows, of an eyeliner or of a hair makeup product.

The composition may be a loose or compacted powder, a foundation, a rouge, an eyeshadow, a blusher, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a lip or eye pencil, a mascara, an eyeliner, a nail varnish, an artificial skin tanning product, a hair care or hair dyeing product, or else a makeup product for the body or product for colouring the skin.

In the cosmetics field, in particular the makeup field, agents for promoting the microcirculation have already been used in cosmetic products. For example, application WO 97/00686 describes the use of agents for promoting the microcirculation in aqueous gels for augmenting the volume of the lips. The aim of the present invention is to formulate an agent for promoting the microcirculation in a fatty phase. Now, the formulation of an active agent for promoting the microcirculation in lipophilic media, and in particular anhydrous media, is limited as regards the choice of media and of amounts of active agent that can be incorporated into these media, due to the lack of compatibility between the active agent and the fatty substances of the composition.

Application JP 08/079666 describes the use of alkylated L-arginine in a makeup composition for increasing blood flow.

Application WO 03/072039 describes in particular a lip gloss which contains an arginine oligomer. However, the applicant has noticed, after reproduction of the example, that this gloss does not produce the expected increase in the microcirculation. There remains therefore the need to improve the compatibility of active agents for promoting the microcirculation with lipophilic, in particular anhydrous, media.

The inventors have found, unexpectedly, that polyols constitute a very good set of solvents for agents for promoting the microcirculation, and that the solution of polyol and of active agent can therefore be incorporated into a fatty phase by solubilization, dispersion or emulsification. More specifically, a subject of the invention is an anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising at least one fatty phase containing at least 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition of at least one polyol, and at least one agent for promoting the blood microcirculation of keratin materials to which or in the vicinity of which said composition is applied, said agent being chosen from agents promoting nitric oxide production. The term "anhydrous composition" is intended to mean a composition containing less than 10% by weight of water, preferably less than 5% by weight of water, more preferably less than 2% by weight of water. According to one embodiment, the water possibly contained in the composition is not added to the ingredients during the preparation of said composition. This water may be associated, in trace amounts, with the ingredients used to prepare said composition. POLYOL

For the purpose of the invention, the term "polyol" is intended to mean any organic molecule comprising, in its chemical structure, at least two hydroxyl (OH) groups.

The polyol is preferably a hydrocarbon-based, in particular aliphatic, compound.

The polyol is advantageously in a sufficient amount to dissolve or disperse the active agent in the fatty phase of the composition.

The polyol may be in particular a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon- based compound carrying at least two -OH functions.

The polyol may be in particular a hydrocarbon-based compound containing at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 50 carbon atoms, and carrying at least two hydroxyl groups, preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups. It is preferably a hydrocarbon-based compound having from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and even more preferentially from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. The polyols generally used in the present invention have a weight-average molecular mass of less than or equal to 1000, preferably of between 90 and 500. The polyol may be a compound having from 2 to

8 carbon atoms and from 2 to 6 hydroxyl functions, such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, 1, 2, 3-trihydroxyhexane, butanediol, propane-1, 2-diol, erythritol, arabitol, adonitol, dulcitol, pentanediols, and in particular 1, 2-pentanediol, sorbitol, or mixtures thereof.

The polyol used according to the invention may be chosen in particular from glycerol and glycol, and derivatives thereof.

Glycerol derivatives are, for example, butyldiglycol, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate and castor oil. The polyol may be chosen from glycerol polymers and copolymers, such as, for example, hexaglycerol and diglycerol .

Glycol derivatives are, for example, ethylene glycol already mentioned above, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol and pentylene glycol. Glycol derivatives also include polyalkylene glycols such as polyethylene glycols, in particular polyethylene glycols (PEGs) having from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units, such as PEG-4, PEG-6 and PEG-8, polypropylene glycols, such as dipropylene glycol, copolymers of ethylene glycol and of propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

The polyol may also be chosen from sugars such as glucose, fructose, xylose, trehalose, sucrose, maltose or lactose, and mixtures thereof. The polyol may also be a polyether alcohol with an average molecular weight of 150-600, such as polyethylene glycol 300 and polyglycerol 500. A mixture of polyols can also be used.

According to one embodiment, the polyol is chosen from nonetherified polyols and nonesterified polyols. The polyol may be chosen from polyols with a molecular mass of less than 500.

The polyols that are particularly preferred are chosen from glycerol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, sorbitol, or a mixture of two or more of these polyols. The agent for promoting the microcirculation can be introduced into the composition of the invention according to several methods: it can be solubilized or dispersed in one or more polyols according to the invention, and then the mixture obtained is subsequently solubilized or dispersed or else emulsified in the fatty phase of the composition; the polyol (s) according to the invention can be, firstly, solubilized, dispersed or else emulsified in the fatty phase of the composition, and then the agent for promoting the microcirculation can be solubilized or dispersed in the polyol (s) /fatty phase mixture.

The agent for promoting the microcirculation can be used in particular in a proportion of from 0.001 to 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 5%, and better still from 0.01 to 2%, and even better still from 0.02 to 1%. The polyol(s) is present in the composition at a content ranging from 0.5 to 50%, preferably of between 1 and 50%, more preferably between 2 and 30% and more preferably of between 5 and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, limits inclusive.

The polyol/agent for promoting the microcirculation ratio by mass can be between 1/20 and 1/1, preferably between 1/15 and 1/5. Agent for promoting the blood microcirculation The agent used according to the invention for promoting the blood microcirculation is chosen fromagents for promoting nitric oxide production;

The agents for promoting nitric oxide production can be chosen from: - NO donors or precursors; NO releasers;

NOS synthesis and/or activity stimulators; mixtures thereof. NO donors or precursors As NO donors, mention may in particular be made of organic compounds which give NO by chemical reaction comprising a nitro (-NO₂) or nitroso (-NO) substituent, oximes, heterocyclic NO donors, compounds that give nitroxyl, hydroxylamine, nonoate compounds (-N(NO)O^"), iV-hydroxyguanidine and its salts

(hemisulphate HG, or acetate NOHA) , inorganic NO donors, transition metals-nitrosyl, nitrosodiphenylamine derivatives, the cyclosine from the Thissen laboratories, SMP-5185 or N-nitratopivaloyl-S- (N' -acetylalanyl) cysteine ethyl ester from the Schwarz Pharma laboratories, photolabile NO donors, guanylate cyclase activators and/or cGMP stimulators, molecules developed by the company Nicox, such as NO-fluorbiprofen (HCT 1026) , NO-hydrocortisone (NCX 1022) and NO-aspirin (NCX 4016) .

Among the organic compounds comprising a nitro (-NO2) or nitroso (-NO) substituent, mention may be made of: compounds comprising a nitro or nitroso substituent linked to a carbon atom (C-nitro, C- nitroso) , such as 2-methyl-2-nitrosopropane (MNP) , - compounds comprising a nitro or nitroso substituent linked to a sulphur atom (S-nitro, S- nitroso) , such as S-nitroso-I\J-acetyl-D, L-penicillamine (SNAP), 5-nitrosoglutathione (SNOG), W-acetyl-S- nitrosopenicillaminyl-S-nitrosopenicillamine, thionitrates or thionitrites (S-nitrosothiols) , compounds comprising a nitro or nitroso substituent linked to an oxygen atom (O-nitroso) , such as, for example, glyceryl trinitrate (GTN) or nitroglycerine, isosorbide dinitrate (ISDN) , isosorbide 5-mononitrate (IS-5-N), isopropyl nitrate, isobutyl nitrate, isopentyl nitrate, ethylene glycol dinitrate, glyceryl 1-mononitrate, glyceryl 1, 2-dinitrate, glyceryl 1, 3-dinitrate, butane-1, 2, 4-triol trinitrate, erythrityl tetranitrate, pentaerythrityl tetranitrate, and organic nitrites such as ethyl nitrite, isobutyl nitrite or isopentyl nitrite (amyl nitrite) , - compounds comprising a nitro or nitroso substituent linked to a nitrogen atom (N-nitroso) , such as iV-nitrosodimethylamine (NDMA) , N-methyl-N- nitrosourea (MNU), 1, 3-bis- (2-chloroethyl) -1- nitrosourea (BCNU) , l-methyl-3-nitro-l-nitrosoguanidine (MNNG), streptozotocine (STZ), W-nitroso-N- phenylhydroxylamine, W-nitrosamines, N-hydroxy-IV- nitrosamines, W-nitrosamides, i\J-nitrosoguanidines, AT-nitrosohydrazines, or W-nitrosimines .

Among the nonoate compounds, mention may in particular be made of spermine (Sper/NO) , diethylamine (DEA/NO), diethylenetriamine (DETA/NO, NOC-18), N,N'- bismethyl-1, 6-hexenediamine (MAMA/NO, NOC-9) , iV-propyl- 1,3-propanediamine (PAPA/NO, NOC-15) , W-isopropyl-1, 3- propanediamine (NOC-5) , JW_/.-V-bismethyl-l, 3- propanediamine (NOC-7), A/V-W'-bisethylethylenediamine (NOC-12) , l-{ [4' ,5' -bis (carboxymethoxy) -2' - nitrophenyl]methoxy}-2-oxo-3, 3-diethyl-l-triazine (CNO-4), or l-{ [4' ,5' -bis (carboxymethoxy) -2'- nitrophenyl]methoxy}-2-oxo-3, 3-diethyltriazine (CNO-5) . Among the oximes, mention may, for example, be made of:

(±) - [ (E) -ethyl-2- [ (E) -hydroxyimino] -5-nitro-3- hexeneamide] (KF409, NOR-3) ,

(±) -N- [ (E) -4-ethyl-3- [ (Z) -hydroxyimino] -5-nitro-3- hexen-l-yl]-3-pyridinecarboxamide (FR144420, NOR-4) . Among the heterocyclic NO-donor compounds, mention may in particular be made of: sydnonimines, such as molsidomine (MOL) , 3-morpholinosydnonimine (linsidomine, SIN-I) , the N- morpholino-iV-nitrosairιinoacetonitrile/γ-cyclodextrin complex (SIN-lA/gamma-CD) , - oxadiazoles (furoxanes) such as 4-phenyl-3- furoxancarbonitrile, oxatriazoles, such as [1, 2, 3, 4-oxatriazolium-5- amino-3- (3, 4-dichlorophenyl) ] chloride (GEA 3162), [1,2,3, 4-oxatriazolium-5-amino-3~ (3-chloro-2- methylphenyl) ] chloride (GEA 5024), [1,2,3,4- oxatriazolium-3- (3-chloro-2-methylphenyl) -5- [cyanomethylamino] carboxamido] hydroxide (GEA5583) , and diazetidine-di-I\J-oxide .

Among the compounds bearing a nitroxyl substituent (-NO^"), mention may be made of: benzenesulphohydroxamic acid (Piloty's acid, PA, BSHA), N-acetyl-iV-acetoxy-4-chlorobenzenesulphonamide, cyanamide, sodium trioxodinitrate (Angeli's salt) and sodium nitroxyl. Among the inorganic NO-donor compounds, mention may in particular be made of nitrosonium salts, nitrosyl halides, nitrite salts, sodium nitrite (NaNO₂) , nitrosyl hydrogen sulphate (NOHSO₄) , nitrosyl chloride (NOCl), nitrosyl tetrafluoroborate (NOBF₄), peroxynitrite (0N00^~) and sodium azide (NaNa) . Mention may also be made of inorganic nitrites associated with organic acids, such as ascorbic acid or salicylic acid, as described in application WO 99/44622.

Among the transition metal complexes with nitrosyl (-NO⁺) as a ligand, mention may in particular be made of dinitrosyl-iron (II) complexes, complexes of nitrosyl with iron-sulphur clusters, complexes of nitrosyl with other transition metals, sodium nitroprusside (SNP, Na₂[Fe(CN)₅NO]), the dinitrosyl- iron-cysteine complex (1:20) (DNIC) and pentachloronitrosylruthenium (Ka[Ru(NO)Cl₅]) . Among the photolabile NO donors, mention may in particular be made of the compounds:

N, N' -dimethyl-N, N' -dinitroso-p-phenylenediamine (BNN3) ;

N, N' -dicarboxymethyl-N, N' -dinitroso-p-phenylene- diamine, 2Na (BNN5Na) ;

N, N' -dinitroso-p-phenylenediamine-N, N' -diacetic acid dimethyl ester (BNN5 methyl ester) .

Among the "guanylate cyclase activators and/or cGMP stimulators", mention may in particular be made of atrial natriuretic factor and S-nitroso-N- acetylpenicillamine (SNAP) .

The agents for modulating NO synthesis can act directly on the chemical release of NO, or on the enzymatic release of NO by means of the enzyme for synthesizing NO, NO synthase or NOS (its various isoforms) . Reference will in particular be made, in the description, to "NO releasers", and in particular "nonpolymeric NO releasers", i.e. any NO-releasing agent that is peptide or nonpeptide in nature, it being understood that, when the agent is peptide in nature, it comprises from 1 to 5 amino acids, preferably from 2 to 4 amino acids.

They can also be elements that ultimately regulate the concentration of NO at the cellular level, by acting on the mechanisms of protein synthesis of the enzyme, on the stability and/or the activity of the enzyme and also on the stimulation of the synthesis thereof, on the stability of the NOS mRNA, on the stability of the released NO. Reference will in particular be made, in the description, to "NOS synthesis and/or activity stimulators". Finally, certain interactions at the level of the NO metabolism, upstream of the synthesis thereof, can interfere with the final concentration of released NO, by acting on the other enzymes that have the same substrate, on the availability of the substrate at the intracellular level, and on its transport within the cell .

The term "NO synthase" covers a family of enzymes that carry out the enzymatic catalysis of L-arginine to citrulline, during which catalysis a gaseous mediator with multiple functions, nitric oxide or NO, is produced. NO synthases exist in three forms, two constitutive forms, which nomenclature groups together neuronal NO synthase (or NOS 1) and endothelial NO synthase (or NOS 3) and the inducible form (or NOS 2) (Medecine/Sciences, 1992, 8, pp. 843-845) . NO releasers

The agents for stimulating NO synthesis, hereinafter referred to as "NO releasers" can be chosen from amino acids, peptides, proanthocyanidins as described in application JP2001-278792, and the cyclic terpenes described in application WO 00/044368.

Among the vasodilator amino acids that stimulate NO release by enzymatic action, mention may be of L-arginine, histidine, lysine, ornithine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, serine, glycine, cysteine or threonine. Acidic, basic or alcoholic aliphatic amino acids are preferred.

The NO-releasing peptides may comprise from 2 to 30 amino acids, for example from 5 to 20 amino acids. These peptides comprise amino acids such as those described above.

Among the NO-releasing vasodilator peptides, mention may be made of: L-arginine oligomers, oligomers of an L-arginine analogue or of derivatives thereof, such as those described by Exsymol in application EP 1 060 739 and by Essentia in application WO 03/072039, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by way of reference, histidine- and/or alanine-based peptides described by KS Biomedix Ltd in application WO 02/04005, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by way of reference, in particular histidine dipeptides such as carnosine, anserine and homocarnosine .

Preferred arginine oligomers comprise from 7 to 15 L-arginine units, for example 7, 9, 11, 13 or 15 L-arginine units. In one embodiment, the arginine oligomer consists only of arginine. In another embodiment, however, it may be included in a peptide or polymer of slightly larger size and which contains other amino acids (for example, glycine) , on the condition that (a) such other amino acids are not therapeutically effective and (b) the arginine oligomer is located at either the C-terminal or N-terminal end of the polymer or of the peptide. An example of such a peptide is gly₃~arg₇. As examples, mention may in particular be made of amino acids, peptides, proanthocyanidins as described in application JP2001-278792, or the cyclic terpenes described in application WO 00/044368, it being understood that the peptides used according to the invention will comprise from 1 to 5 amino acids, preferably from 2 to 4 amino acids. Among the amino acids that stimulate NO release by enzymatic action, mention may be made of L-arginine, histidine, lysine, ornithine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, serine, glycine, cysteine or threonine. Basic, acidic or alcoholic aliphatic amino acids are preferred.

Mention may in particular be made of peptides having from 1 to 5 amino acids, preferably from 2 to 4 amino acids, chosen from:

L-arginine oligomers, oligomers of an L-arginine analogue or of a derivative thereof, such as those described by Exsymol in application EP 1 060 739, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by way of reference, histidine- and/or alanine-based peptides described by KS Biomedix Ltd in application WO 02/04005, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by way of reference, in particular histidine dipeptides such as carnosine, anserine and homocarnosine . Mention may also be made of the compounds developed by the company Nitromed, such as the COX-2 inhibitors that stimulate NO production, the PDE inhibitors that stimulate NO production, the steroids that stimulate NO production, the arginines that stimulate NO production and BiDiL® which combines isosorbide dinitrate (NO donor) and hydralazine (antioxidant and vasodilator) . NOS stimulators

As examples of "NOS synthesis and/or activity stimulators", mention may, for example, be made of arachidonic acid, bradykinin, L-glutamic acid, histamine, hydroxyguanidine, interleukin 1-α, interleukin 1-β, interleukin-2, lipopolysaccharides, tetrahydro-L-biopterin and TNF-α.

Mention may also be made of L-2-pyrrolidone- 5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives, as described in application EP 1 226 822.

Mention may also be made of the derivatives of mono- or diesters of cinnamic acid or of one of its derivatives and of vitamin C, such as the compounds of formula I

(I)

in which:

Ri, R₂ and R₃, independently of one another, represent

H, or an OH, alkoxy, fluoroalkoxy or alkylcarbonyloxy radical, and

R₄ represents H or -COR5, R₅ representing a Ci to C₂₀ linear or branched alkyl radical or the radical of formula :

and also the related substances or the substances that can generate them, and the analogues and precursors thereof.

Such compounds are described in greater detail in application EP 1 442 739, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by way of reference.

Mention may also be made of the compounds of formula I

in which:

Zi, Z₂ and Z₃, independently of one another, represent

NO₂, COOH, CF₃, a halogen atom or a group R_x, ORi, SR_x or

NR₁R₂, Z₄ represents H or a group R₁; where R, Ri and R₂, independently of one another, represent H or a Ci to Cs linear or branched alkyl group, X₁, X₂ and X₃ represent: -C= or -N=, on the condition

* that if Xi=N, then X₂=X₃=C and there is no substituent Zi on

Xi, if X₂=N, then Xi=X₃=C and there is no substituent Z₂ on

X₂, if X₃=N, then X₂=Xi=C and there is no substituent Z₃ on X₃, i.e. it is a benzene or pyridine ring; Z₅ represents: the group: -COOR (a) or the group:

or the group:

(C)

in which Z₁, Z₂, Z₃, Xi, X₂, X₃, R, R₁ and R₂ have the same meanings as above.

The compound may in particular be chosen from N-arylmethylene ethylenediaminetriacetates, N-aryl- methyleneiminodiacetates or the N, N' -diarylmethylene ethylenediamineacetates as described in application EP 1 442 740, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by way of reference.

Preferably, use will be made of an NO donor or an NO releaser chosen from nitroglycerine (or trinitrine) , S-nitroso-N-acetylpenicillamine (SNAP) , diethylenetriamine nonoate (DETA NONOate) , S-nitrosothiols and SNAGs (nitrosated thiosugars) , sinitrodil, N,N-dimethylhexanediamine (DHMD/NO) , isosorbide dinitrate (ISDN) , isosorbide 5-mononitrate (IS5N), cyclosine, N-nitratopivaloyl-S- (N' - acetylalanyl) cysteine ethyl ester (SPM-5185) and arginine oligomers comprising from 1 to 5 units.

For an effect on the coloration of the lips, use will preferably be made of an agent chosen from nitric oxide NO donors or precursors with the exception of pyrimidine NO compounds; NO releasers; NO synthase synthesis and/or activity stimulators;

The NO donor or precursor will preferably be chosen from organic compounds comprising a nitro (-NO₂) or nitroso (-NO) substituent, oximes, heterocyclic NO donors, compounds that give nitroxyl, hydroxylamine, nonoate compounds (-N(NO)O^"), W- hydroxyguanidine and its salts (hemisulphate HG, or acetate NOHA) , inorganic NO donors, transition metals- nitrosyl, nitrosodiphenylamine derivatives, cyclosine, N-nitratopivaloyl-S- (N' acetylalanyl) cysteine ethyl ester, photolabile NO donors, guanylate cyclase activators and/or cGMP stimulators.

The NO releaser will preferentially be chosen from peptides comprising amino acids chosen from L- arginine, histidine, lysine, ornithine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, serine, glycine, cysteine, threonine, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, said agent can be adsorbed onto or encapsulated in particulate structures having a size that can range from 1 nm to a few μm (10 μm) , such as, for example, microcapsules, microparticles, vesicular dispersions of ionic type (liposomes or oleosomes) and/or nonionic type (niosomes) and/or dispersions of nanospheres. These particles can be advantageously porous and can consist of silicates or of aluminosilicates .

Examples of such formulations are described in particular in patents EP199636, EP375520, EP447318, EP557489, WO 97/12602, EP1151741 or US 5 914 126. By way of example, the microspheres may be prepared according to the method described in patent application EP 0 375 520. The nanospheres may be in the form of an aqueous suspension and may be prepared according to the methods described in patent applications FR 0015686 and FR 0101438. The oleosomes consist of an oil-in-water emulsion formed by oily globules provided with a lamellar liquid-crystal coating dispersed in an aqueous phase (see patent applications EP 0 641 557 and EP 0 705 593) . The agent according to the invention may also be encapsulated in nanocapsules consisting of a lamellar coating obtained from a silicone surfactant as described in patent application EP 0 780 115; the nanocapsules may also be prepared from water- dispersible sulphonic polyesters according, for example, to the technique described in patent application FR 0113337.

The agent is present in the composition in an effective amount for obtaining the desired effect. This effect can be directly measured by simple visual observation or by comparative image analysis.

By way of example, said agent will be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 5%, and better still from 0.01 to 2%, and even better still from 0.02 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The NO donor or releaser is advantageously combined with an antioxidizing agent, so as to prevent degradation of the NO. The composition according to the invention is in particular intended to improve keratin tissues, such as the skin, the hair, the lips, the nails, the eyelashes and the eyebrows .

In particular, the composition may be a composition for caring for and/or making up the eyelashes or for the preparation of a composition for caring for and/or treating the eyelashes, for or for use in inducing and/or stimulating the growth of the eyelashes and/or increasing their density. This composition makes it possible to increase the length and/or the thickness of the eyelashes and/or of the eyebrows, but also to maintain the eyelashes in good condition and/or to improve their condition and/or their appearance. The composition can be used for preventing hair loss, or promoting hair regrowth.

The composition can also be used for improving the appearance of the lips or the outline of the lips, in particular for modifying the colouration of the lips, for augmenting the volume of the lips and/or modelling them and/or making them smoother. The composition can be used for colouring the lips by increasing the blood microcirculation. The composition can be used for restoring the fullness of the lips, in particular by increasing the size and/or the volume and/or the thickness of the lips and/or remodelling them and/or smoothing them and/or giving them a plumper or fleshy appearance.

Topical applications can be carried out in order to modulate the coloration of the nails, or to stimulate the growth of the nails. The composition according to the invention can also be used for prolonging the effect of tanning, or having a naturally suntanned complexion. This interests in particular individuals who get little or no exposure to sunlight. The composition according to the invention can also be used so as to naturally look healthy, by applying it in particular to the face. The composition can also be applied daily to the entire face so as to obtain an even natural complexion. The application may also be limited, renewed or reinforced on the cheeks or cheekbones, for example so as to accentuate the healthy looking effect on specific areas of the face.

In this case, the composition may be in the form of a skin care base, of a care cream (day cream, night cream, anti-wrinkle cream) , of a makeup base or of a tinted care cream.

The composition according to the invention can also be used for improving the appearance of the area around the eyes, in particular the region under the eyes. It can be used for concealing or softening skin defects, in particular bags and/or dark rings around the eyes, so as to obtain a uniform even complexion having a natural, light, live appearance.

In this case, the composition may be a natural makeup product for the skin in the form of a skin care base or cream, of a makeup base, of a tinted cream, of a foundation in liquid, semi-solid or powdered form, of a care product for around the eyes, of a concealer care serum or of a concealer stick, or of a natural makeup product for the lips in the form of a lipstick, of a liquid gloss, of a lipstick paste, of a lipliner pencil, of a lip balm, or of a lip varnish, otherwise called lip lacquer.

In one embodiment or method of application, the compositions of the present invention are useful for delaying, minimizing, effacing and/or preventing the signs of skin ageing, in particular the visual discontinuities and/or discontinuities to the touch in the skin texture, associated with ageing, thus providing an improvement in the appearance and/or in the feel of the skin, for example a smoother, more uniform appearance and/or feel.

The expression "signs of skin ageing" is intended to mean the development of discontinuities in texture, such as wrinkles, comprising superficial fine lines and also deep large wrinkles, lines in the skin, crevices, bumps, large pores, a scaly appearance, friability and/or other forms of unevenness or of roughness of the skin, the loss of elasticity of the skin, sagging (including swelling in the area of the eyes and the cheeks) , the loss of firmness of the skin, the loss of tension of the skin, and the loss of recovery of the skin after a distortion. For example, the length, the depth and/or other dimensions of the lines and/or of the wrinkles can be decreased, the apparent diameter of the pores can be decreased, or the apparent height of the tissue in the immediate proximity of the pore openings can be decreased.

The compositions of the present invention can also be used for the stabilization or the remodelling of the hypodermal fat or deeper fat. Fat stabilization, in particular in human beings, is generally associated with the appearance of ageing attributed to fat atrophy and also to fat regression in the skin. The methods and the compositions described in this text can contribute to the prevention of the formation of wrinkles and can promote an improvement in the appearance of deep wrinkles by supporting the vascularity of the skin.

The agent for promoting the blood microcirculation can be present in the composition in a sufficient amount to improve the keratin tissues, such as the skin, the hair, the lips, the nails, the eyelashes and the eyebrows. The agent for promoting the blood microcirculation can be present in the composition in a sufficient amount to produce one of the effects described above.

A subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic use of the composition described above.

The term "cosmetic use" is intended to mean a nontherapeutic use capable of producing a physiological effect without however preventing or correcting a dysfunction of the keratin materials.

The term "cosmetic use" is also intended to mean a use of a composition containing physiologically acceptable ingredients.

GALENICS

The composition of the invention may be in solid, pasty or more or less fluid liquid form. It may be a solid or flexible anhydrous gel, a liquid oily phase or a foam. Preferably, it is in the form of a solid composition, and more especially in the form of a stick.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonaqueous solvent phase. This phase is capable of forming a continuous phase and contains, as its name indicates, at least one nonaqueous organic solvent, which is preferably a non- water-soluble compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

For the purpose of the invention, the term "volatile compound" is intended to mean any compound (or nonaqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the keratin fibres in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile compound is a volatile cosmetic compound that is liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10^~3 to 300 mmHg) , in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

As opposed to this, the term "nonvolatile compound" is intended to mean a compound that remains on the keratin fibres at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours, and that has in particular a vapour pressure of less than 10^"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .

The non-water-soluble volatile compound that is liquid at ambient temperature is in particular an oil (fatty substance that is liquid at 25⁰C and atmospheric pressure) or an organic solvent that is cosmetically acceptable. The expression "cosmetically acceptable" is intended to mean a compound whose use is compatible with an application to keratin materials. Of course, the nonaqueous solvent phase of the composition according to the invention can comprise a mixture of such compounds . The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is intended to mean an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and, optionally, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur and/or phosphorous atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular Cs-Cie branched alkanes, such as the C₈-Ci₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also called 2, 2, 4, 4, β-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane or isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names "Isopars®" or "Permetyls®", Cs-Ci₆ branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name "Shell Solt®" by the company Shell, can also be used.

As volatile oils, use may also be made of volatile silicones, such as, for example, linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of less than 8 centistokes, and having in particular from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms. As a volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of octamethylcyclotetra- siloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl- cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, hepta- methyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octa- methyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodeca- methylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Use may also be made of volatile organic solvents, in particular fluorinated volatile organic solvents, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoro- methylcyclopentane .

According to a specific embodiment of the compositions according to the invention, the non-water- soluble volatile compound that is liquid at ambient temperature is chosen from hydrocarbon-based volatile oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof. The nonaqueous solvent phase can also comprise at least one non-water-soluble nonvolatile compound that is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular at least one nonvolatile oil, which can in particular be chosen from nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone and/or fluoro oils.

As a nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may be particular be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol in which the fatty acids can have varied chain lengths of from C₄ to C₂₄, it being possible for the latter to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names "Miglyol 810®" "812®" and "818®" by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, and squalene, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters such as oils of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R_x represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon-based chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that Ri + R₂ is >_ 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols that are liguid at ambient temperature, containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpenta- decanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid; and mixtures thereof.

The nonvolatile silicone oils that can be used in the composition according to the invention may be nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) , polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, that are pendant and/or at the end of a silicone chain, the groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethyl- siloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates . The fluoro oils that can be used in the composition of the invention are in particular fluoro- silicone oils, fluoro polyethers or fluorosilicones, as described in document EP-A-847752.

The content of non-water-soluble nonvolatile compound that is liquid at ambient temperature is generally from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents (acceptable tolerance, toxicology and feel) .

These solvents can be generally present at a content ranging from 0.1 to 90%, more preferably from 10 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 30 to 90%.

As solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, besides the hydrophilic organic solvents mentioned above, of ketones that are liquid at ambient temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone; propylene glycol ethers that are liquid at ambient temperature, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, or dipropylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether; short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isopentyl acetate; ethers that are liquid at ambient temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; alkanes that are liquid at ambient temperature, such as decane, heptane, dodecane, isododecane or cyclohexane; aromatic cyclic compounds that are liquid at ambient temperature, such as toluene and xylene; aldehydes that are liquid at ambient temperature, such as benzaldehyde, acetaldehyde, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously in anhydrous thickened form. Thus, the invention relates more especially to an anhydrous thickened makeup or care composition for the lips, containing at least one thickener chosen from fatty phase gelling agents, waxes, fillers, and mixtures thereof.

As fatty phase gelling agents, mention may be made of optionally modified clays such as hectorites modified with a Cio to C₂2 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethyl- ammonium chloride; silica; partially or totally crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes having a three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16 and KSG18 from Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C from Dow-Corning, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMFlO, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel and SR DC 556 gel from Grant Industries, and SF 1204 and JK 113 from General Electric; galactomananes containing one to six, and better still from two to four hydroxyl groups per monosaccharide, that are substituted with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with Ci to C₆ alkyl chains, and better still Ci to C₃ alkyl chains, and more particularly ethylated guar having a degree of substitution of 2 or 3, such as that sold by the company Aqualon under the name N-Hance-AG; gums, in particular silicone gums such as PDMSs, having a viscosity > 500 000 centistokes. These gelling agents are used, for example, at concentrations of from 0.2 to 15% of the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one fatty substance that is solid at ambient temperature, in particular chosen from waxes and pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof. These fatty substances may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

The composition may also additionally contain at least one pasty compound. The composition is advantageously free of lanolin or of lanolin derivatives.

By way of illustration of the lanolin derivatives conventionally used, mention may in particular be made of liquid lanolin, reduced lanolin, adsorption-purified lanolin, acetylated lanolin, oxypropylenated lanolin wax (5 PO) , liquid lanolin acetate, hydroxy lanolin, polyoxyethylene lanolin, lanolin fatty acid, hard lanolin fatty acid, lanolin fatty acid cholesterol esters, lanolin alcohol, lanolin alcohol acetate, isopropyl lanolate, and the like.

Lanolins have the drawback of being sensitive to heat and to ultraviolet radiation. They have a tendency to oxidize and give off an unpleasant odour, and their highly yellow colour prevents them from being used in nonpigmented care bases and colourless bases, which limits their use in cosmetic compositions.

The applicant has discovered that the alkoxylated esters described above are good substitutes for lanolin or for its derivatives.

For the purpose of the present invention the term "pasty compound" is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound, with a reversible solid/liquid change in state, which comprises a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23⁰C. The term "pasty substance" is also intended to mean poly (vinyl laurate) . The pasty compounds are advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric or nonpolymeric fluorinated compounds, - polymeric or nonpolymeric silicone compounds, vinyl polymers, in particular: olefin homopolymers, olefin copolymers, hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers, linear or branched oligomers which are homo- or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C₈-C₃₀ alkyl group, oligomers which are homo- or copolymers of vinyl esters having Cs-C₃₀ alkyl groups, oligomers which are homo- and copolymers of vinyl ethers having C₈-C₃₀ alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C₂-Ci₀₀ diols, preferably C₂-Cs₀ diols, esters, and mixtures thereof.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, preference is given in particular to copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides possessing a long Ce-C₃₀ chain, more preferably such that the ratio by weight of the ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide to alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of the copolymers such that the long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer, such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 EO) sold under the trade name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel. Among pasty esters, preference is given in particular to: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, especially esters of diglycerol, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as in particular those sold under the trade name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol, arachidyl propionate, sold under the trade name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, phytosterol esters, noncrosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C₄-C₅₀ di- or polycarboxylic acid and a C₂-C₅₀ diol or polyol, other than the polyester described above, ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid; and mixtures thereof, such as - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions of 1 to 1 (1/1) or hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions of 1 to 2 (1/2) or hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions of 1 to 3 (1/3) or hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate, - and mixtures thereof.

Among pasty compounds of plant origin, a mixture of soybean sterols and of oxyethylenated (5 EO) oxypropylenated (5 PO) pentaerythritol sold under the reference Lanolide by the company Vevy will preferably be chosen.

The pasty compound preferably represents 1 to 99%, better still 1 to 60%, better still 2 to 30%, and even better still 5 to 15%, by weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one film-forming polymer that is liposoluble (i.e. soluble in a liquid fatty phase comprising oils or organic solvents such as those described above) or lipophilic (i.e. compatible with a liquid fatty phase comprising oils or organic solvents such as those described above) . For the purpose of the invention, the term

"liquid fatty phase" is intended to mean a fatty phase that is liquid at ambient temperature (25⁰C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 105 Pa), composed of one or more fatty substances that are liquid at ambient temperature, such as the oils described above, generally compatible with one another, which corresponds generally to the nonaqueous solvent phase of the composition.

In the present invention, the term "film- forming polymer" is intended to mean a polymer capable of forming by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

By way of example of a liposoluble polymer, mention may be made of copolymers of a vinyl ester (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and of at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present) , an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms) , an alkyl vinyl ether (the alkyl group of which contains from 2 to 18 carbon atoms) or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) .

These copolymers may be crosslinked by means of crosslinking agents which may be either of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate and divinyl octadecanedioate .

As examples of these polymers, mention may be made of the copolymers: vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, vinyl acetate/vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate/vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate/octadecene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/allyl laurate, vinyl propionate/vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate/octadecene-1, vinyl acetate/dodecene-1, vinyl stearate/ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate/cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate/allyl acetate, vinyl 2,2- dimethyl octanoate/vinyl laurate, allyl 2,2- dimethylpentanoate/vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate/vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% of divinylbenzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate/vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% of divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate/octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% of tetra- allyloxyethane, vinyl acetate/allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% of divinylbenzene, vinyl acetate/octadecene-1, crosslinked with 0.2% of divinylbenzene, and allyl propionate/allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% of divinylbenzene.

As liposoluble film-forming polymers, mention may also be made of liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

Such liposoluble copolymers can be chosen from copolymers of poly (vinyl stearate), of poly (vinyl stearate) crosslinked with divinylbenzene, with diallyl ether or with diallyl phthalate, copolymers of poly(stearyl (meth) acrylate) , of poly (vinyl laurate), of poly(lauryl (meth) acrylate) , these poly (meth) acrylates possibly being crosslinked with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or with tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate. The liposoluble copolymers derived above are known, and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they may have a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 500 000, and preferably from 4000 to 200 000.

As liposoluble film-forming polymers that can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes, and in particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, for instance polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a Ci to C_B linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, for instance ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, vinylpyrrolidone (VP) copolymers, and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C₄₀ alkene, and better still C₃ to C20 alkene. By way of example of a VP copolymer that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP/vinyl acetate, VP/ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP/ethyl methacrylate/methacrylic acid, VP/eicosene, VP/hexadecene, VP/triacontene, VP/styrene, and VP/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate.

Mention may also be made of silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. Silicone resin nomenclature is known as "MDTQ", the resin being described as a function of the various monomeric siloxane units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those which are sold: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK, such as Belsil PMS MK; by the company Shin-Etsu under the references KR- 220L.

As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as that sold under the reference SRlOOO by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, or "DC 749" and "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of silicone resins such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers sold by the company Dow Corning under the reference Bio-PSA and described in document US 5 162 410, or else the silicone copolymers derived from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and of a diorganosiloxane as described in document WO 2004/073626.

Use may also be made of the silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5, 874, 069, US-A-5, 919, 411, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5, 981, 680.

These silicone polymers can belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the chain of the polymer, and/or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer is a film-forming, linear, block ethylenic polymer, which preferably comprises at least a first block and at least a second block having different glass transition temperatures (Tg) , said first and second blocks being linked to one another via an intermediate block comprising at least one monomer constituting the first block and at least one monomer constituting the second block.

Advantageously, the first and second blocks of the block polymer are incompatible with one another.

Such polymers are described, for example, in documents EP 1411069 or WO 04/028488.

The lipophilic or liposoluble film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles in dispersion in a nonaqueous solvent phase, which may be that of the composition according to the invention. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art. As examples of nonaqueous dispersions of a film-forming polymer, mention may be made of the dispersion described, for example, in document EP 749 746, and in particular the particles of acrylic polymers, surface-stabilized with a stabilizer, in a dispersion in a fatty phase (for example, isododecane) , such as Mexomere PAP® from the company Chimex, and the dispersions of particles of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably acrylic polymer, in a liquid fatty phase, the ethylenic polymer being advantageously dispersed in the absence of additional particle surface stabilizer, as described in particular in document WO 04/055081.

The lipophilic or liposoluble film-forming polymer may be present at a solids content ranging from 0.1% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 1% to 20% by weight .

According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic or liposoluble polymer at a solids content of polymer (s) of greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably greater than or equal to 17% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 20% by weight. The composition may also comprise an

"additional" film-forming polymer chosen, for example, from hydrophilic film-forming polymers such as: proteins, for instance proteins of plant origin, such as wheat proteins or soybean proteins; proteins of animal origin, such as keratins, for example, keratin hydrolysates and sulphonic keratins; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; cellulose polymers, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxy- ethylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized derivatives of cellulose; vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of maleic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; polymers of natural origin, that are optionally modified, such as: gum arables, guar gum, xanthan derivatives and copal gum; alginates and carrageenans; glycoaminoglycans, and hyaluronic acid and its derivatives;

- shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums and copal resins; deoxyribonucleic acid; muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulphates, and mixtures thereof. The additional film-forming polymer may also be in the form of an aqueous dispersion, such as, for example, the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90®, Neocryl A-1070®, Neocryl A-1090®, Neocryl BT-62®, Neocryl A-1079® and Neocryl A-523® by the company Avecia Neoresins, Dow Latex 432® by the company Dow Chemical, Daitosol 5000 AD® or Daitosol 5000 SJ® by the company Daito Kasey Kogyo; Syntran 5760® by the company Interpolymer or else the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974® by the company Avecia

Neoresins, Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450®, Sancure 875®, Sancure 861®, Sancure 878® and Sancure 2060® by the company Goodrich, Impranil 85® by the company Bayer, Aquamere H-1511® by the company Hydromer; the sulphopolyesters sold under the trade name Eastman AQ® by the company Eastman Chemical Products, the vinyl dispersions such as Mexomere PAM® sold by the company Chimex, and mixtures thereof.

The additional film-forming polymer may be present at a solids content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 1% to 15% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer that promotes the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from all the compounds known to those skilled in the art to be capable of performing the desired function.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention may also comprise at least one dyestuff, which may be chosen from dyes, pigments and pearlescent agents, and mixtures thereof. This dyestuff may represent from 0.001 to 98%, preferably from 0.5 to 85%, and better still from 1 to 60%, of the total weight of the composition.

The dyes are preferably liposoluble dyes, although water-soluble dyes may be used. The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto. They may represent from 0 to 20% of the weight of the composition, and better still from 0.1 to 6%. The water-soluble dyes are in particular beetroot juice and methylene blue, and may represent from 0.1 to 6% by weight of the composition (if present) . For a composition in the form of a paste or a cast product, such as lipsticks or body makeup products, from 0.5 to 50% of dyestuff, preferably from 2 to 40%, and better still from 5 to 30%, relative to the total weight of the composition, is generally used. The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or coloured, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in the liquid fatty phase, intended to colour and/or opacify the composition. The term "fillers" should be understood to mean colourless or white, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or nonlamellar particles. The term "pearlescent agents" should be understood to mean iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized. These fillers and pearlescent agents serve in particular to modify the texture of the composition.

The pigments may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.05 to 30% of the weight of the final composition, and preferably in a proportion of from 2 to 20%. As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxides, zirconium oxides or cerium oxides, and also zinc oxides, iron oxides or chromium oxides and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, and barium lakes, strontium lakes, calcium lakes (D & C Red No. 7) and aluminium lakes. The pearlescent agents may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably at a content of the order of 1 to 15%. Among the pearlescent agents that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride, such as coloured titanium mica.

The composition advantageously contains goniochromatic pigments, for example interfering multilayer pigments and/or reflective pigments. These two types of pigments are described in application FR 0 209 246, the content of which is incorporated into the present application by way of reference.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fillers, in particular at a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight. The term "fillers" should be understood to mean colourless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any form, that are insoluble in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology of the texture of the composition. The fillers may be mineral or organic and of any form, platelet-shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example, lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders (Nylon®) (Orgasol® from Atochem) , poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®) , lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitrite, hollow polymer microspheres such as those made of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie) , of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® 603 from the company Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (for example, Tospearls® from Toshiba) , elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapaptite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads® from Maprecos) , glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, and Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation) . Mention may also be made of silica-based fillers such as Aerosil 200, Aerosil 300; Sunsphere L-31, and Sunsphere H-31 sold by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen sold by Asahi Chemical; composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, such as the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass. Finally, mention may be made of polyurethane powders, in particular powders of crosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. In particular, it may involve a hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® from the company Toshiki.

The filler may, for example, be a filler with an average particle size of less than 100 μm, in particular of between 1 and 50 μm, for example between 4 and 20 μm.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise fibres which allow an improvement in the lengthening effect. The term "fibre" should be understood to mean an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is very much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the cross section of the fibre lies. In particular, the L/D ratio (or shape factor) is chosen in the range of from 3.5 to 2500, preferably from 5 to 500, and better still from 5 to 150.

In particular, the fibres have a length ranging from 1 μm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm, and better still from 0.3 mm to 3 mm.

The fibres that can be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibres, and may be of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin.

As fibres that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibres such as polyamide (Nylon®) fibres or rigid fibres such as polyimideamide fibres, for instance those sold under the names "Kennel" and "Kermel Tech" by the company Rhodia or poly(p- phenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramide) fibres sold in particular under the name Kevlar® by the company Dupont de Nemours.

The composition may also contain at least one wax. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid change in state, which has a melting point of greater than 30⁰C which can range up to 200⁰C, which has a hardness of greater than 0.5 MPa and which exhibits, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement. On bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture but, on bringing the temperature of the mixture back to ambient temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained.

The waxes that can be used in the invention are compounds which are solid at ambient temperature, and which are intended to structure the composition, in particular in the form of a stick; they may be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and/or silicone waxes and can be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin. In particular, they exhibit a melting point of greater than 4O⁰C, and better still of greater than 45°C.

As waxes that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of those generally used in the cosmetics field: they are in particular of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fibre wax, sugarcane wax, rice wax, montan wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, or hydrogenated oils such as jojoba oil; synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene and Fischer-Tropsch waxes, or else fatty acid esters, such as octacosanyl stearate or glycerides, which are solid at 40⁰C, and better still at 45°C, silicone waxes, such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain of 10 to 45 carbon atoms, or poly(di)- methylsiloxane esters which are solid at 40⁰C, the ester chain of which comprises at least 10 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention advantageously contains polyethylene wax with a weight- average molecular mass of between 300 and 700, in particular equal to 500 g/mol.

By way of indication, the wax may represent from 0.01 to 50%, preferably from 2 to 40%, and better still from 5 to 30%, of the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, thickeners, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, fragrances, basifying or acidifying agents, preserving agents, sunscreens, surfactants, antioxidants, anti-hairloss agents, anti-dandruff agents or propellants, or mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compound (s) and/or the amount thereof, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the envisaged addition.

The composition of the invention may be in the form of a coloured makeup product for the lips, such as a lipstick or a lip gloss, having care or treatment properties. Thus, a subject of the invention is also an anhydrous makeup product for the lips containing an agent for promoting the microcirculation, as a physiologically acceptable care active agent, and a fatty phase containing this active agent and a thickener and also a polyol.

The compositions of the present invention may be skin care preparations, for example exfoliant or scrubbing preparations, or exfoliant mask preparations; face makeup preparations in the form of creams, sticks or blushers; eye care preparations, for example eyeshadow, mascara, eyeliner, or eye creams; lip care preparations, for example lipsticks, lip glosses, or lipliner pencils; nail care preparations, such as colourless or coloured nail varnish; foot care preparations, for example foot creams or foot balms, specific deodorants and antiperspirants or anti-callus preparations; photoprotective preparations, such as sun milks, lotions, creams and oils, "tropical" sun compositions or sunscreens, tan-generating preparations or aftersun preparations; tanning preparations, for example self-tanning creams; hair treatment or hair care preparations. The composition according to the invention can be produced by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatology field. In particular, it can be obtained by heating the various constituents at the highest wax melting point, and then casting the molten mixture in a mould (dish or finger stall) . It can also be obtained by extrusion as described in application EP-A-667 146.

The invention is illustrated in greater detail in the following examples. The percentages are given by weight.

Example: Lipstick

Ingredients % by weight

2-OCTYLDODECANOL 9.9

NON-PROTECTED PERHYDROSQUALENE 4.7

DI-TERT-BUTYL-4-HYDROXYTOLUENE 0.07

L-ARGININE 1

BLEACHED BEESWAX 6.9

DIISOSTEARYL MALATE qs 100

GLYCEROL 7.4

MIXTURE OF ISOPROPYL P-HYDROXYBENZOATE, 0.4 ISOBUTYL P-HYDROXYBENZOATE AND N-BUTYL P- HYDROXYBENZOATE (40/30/30)

PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE 7.4

TRIOLEYL PHOSPHATE 1.0

GLYCERYL TRIHEPTANOATE 3.9

POLYGLYCEROLATED (2 MOL) TRIISOSTEARATE 10.6

2-DECYLTETRADECANOIC ACID TRIGLYCERIDE 1.0 (GUERBET C24)

HYDROPHOBIC PYROGENIC SILICA SURFACE- 7.4 TREATED WITH DIMETHYLSILANE

Total: 100

Claims

1. Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising at least one fatty phase containing at least 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition of at least one polyol, and at least one agent for promoting the blood microcirculation of keratin materials to which or in the vicinity of which said composition is applied, said agent being chosen from agents promoting nitric oxide production .

2. Cosmetic composition containing less than 10% of water, comprising at least one fatty phase containing at least one polyol, and at least one agent for promoting the blood microcirculation of keratin materials to which or in the vicinity of which said composition is applied.

3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyol is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic alkyl compound carrying at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain.

4. Composition according to Claim 3, characterized in that the polyol is a hydrocarbon-based compound containing at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 50 carbon atoms, and carrying at least two hydroxyl groups, preferably from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups.

5. Composition according to Claim 4, characterized in that the polyol is a hydrocarbon-based compound containing 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and even more preferentially from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

6. Composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that the polyol is a compound having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and from 2 to 6 hydroxyl functions .

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol has a weight-average molecular mass of less than or equal to 1000 g/mol, preferably of between 90 and 500 g/mol .

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol is chosen from sugars such as glucose, fructose, xylose, trehalose, sucrose, maltose or lactose, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the polyol is chosen from glycol and glycerol, and derivatives thereof.

10. Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the polyol is chosen from polyalkylene glycols, such as polyethylene glycols, in particular polyethylene glycols (PEG) having from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units, and polypropylene glycols, such as dipropylene glycol.

11. Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the polyol is ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol or butylene glycol.

12. Composition according to Claim 9, characterized in that the polyol is hexaglycerol or diglycerol.

13. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the polyol is chosen from 1, 2, 3-trihydroxyhexane, butanediol, erythritol, arabitol, adonitol and dulcitol, pentanediols, and in particular 1, 2-pentanediol, sorbitol, panthenol, butyldiglycol, PPG-IO butanediol, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate and castor oil, or mixtures thereof.

14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent for promoting the microcirculation can be used in particular in a proportion of from 0.001 to 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 5%, and better still from 0.01 to 2%, and even better still from 0.02 to 1%.

15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol is present in the composition at a content of between 1 and 50%, more preferably between 2 and 30% and more preferably of between 5 and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition, limits inclusive.

16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent for promoting the microcirculation/polyol ratio is between 1/20 and 1/1, preferably between 1/15 and 1/5.

17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent for promoting the microcirculation is chosen from chemical NO donors, such as organic compounds comprising a nitro or nitroso substituent, oximes, heterocyclic NO donors, compounds that give nitroxyl, hydroxylamine and its salts, iV-hydroxyguanidine, inorganic NO donors, complexes of transition metals with nitrosyl as ligand, nonoate compounds, and nitrosodiphenylamine derivatives .

18. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent for promoting the microcirculation is chosen from NO releasers, such as amino acids, peptides, proanthocyanidins and cyclic terpenes.

19. Composition according to one of the preceding claims , characterized in that the peptides are chosen from L-arginine oligomers.

20. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one fatty substance chosen from oils, waxes and pasty fatty substances.

21. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one dyestuff chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents and dyes.

22. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one filler.

23. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a makeup product for the lips, the eyes or the skin.

24. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is in the form of a lipstick or of a mascara.

25. Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 24.

26. Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 24, for caring for or making up the skin, the lips or the nails.