EP0512473B1 - Overedge sewing machine for sewing insoles to shoe uppers - Google Patents

Overedge sewing machine for sewing insoles to shoe uppers Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0512473B1
EP0512473B1 EP92107558A EP92107558A EP0512473B1 EP 0512473 B1 EP0512473 B1 EP 0512473B1 EP 92107558 A EP92107558 A EP 92107558A EP 92107558 A EP92107558 A EP 92107558A EP 0512473 B1 EP0512473 B1 EP 0512473B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
tongue
sewing machine
over
insole
machine according
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP92107558A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0512473A1 (en
Inventor
Peter Forstpointner
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J Strobel & Sohne & Co GmbH
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J Strobel & Sohne & Co GmbH
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Publication of EP0512473A1 publication Critical patent/EP0512473A1/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D25/00—Devices for gluing shoe parts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B27/00—Work-feeding means
    • D05B27/10—Work-feeding means with rotary circular feed members
    • D05B27/18—Feed cups
    • D05B27/185—Guides or supports for the work presented to the feed cups, e.g. uncurling guides

Definitions

  • the invention relates to an overlock sewing machine for sewing insoles to shoe uppers of the type specified in the preamble of claim 1.
  • Such overlock sewing machines for sewing insoles to shoe uppers which occurs, for example, in the manufacture of reversible shoes and shoes whose outsole is sprayed or vulcanized onto the insole sewn onto the shaft, are known (DE-C-1 922 505).
  • the feed plate, which is driven step by step when sewing on the shaft, and the pressure plate, which is attached to the insole when sewing, are each arranged inside or behind in the immediate vicinity of the machine housing or on the outside or front on the side of the feed plate facing away from the machine housing, and this is the one Pressure plate on the feed plate to be spring-loaded, via a correspondingly movable support arm, on which the pressure plate is rotatably mounted.
  • the tongue for separating the shoe upper and the insole from one another can be pivoted in the direction of advance into the gap between the advance plate and the pressure plate, is designed in the form of a knife in this direction and is provided on a lever which is pivotably mounted on the machine housing and which can be actuated by hand or by means of a pedal or servomotor and interacts with a stop pin on the machine housing.
  • the tongue is then pivoted into its working position, in which the lever rests on the stop pin, when an insole is to be gathered at a shoe upper to eliminate excess width, namely when sewing along the insole tip and the tip of the shaft.
  • Overlock sewing machines for sewing stockings are also known, which are provided with two step-by-step feed plates and a material guide.
  • the material manager is used to connect the two together sewing material edges to be sewn flat and with a predetermined protrusion over the feed plates into the gap between the feed plates, so that the sewing needle moving back and forth pierces the latter at a corresponding distance from the two edges of the material edges.
  • the material guide is arranged in front of the gap between the feed plates, has a middle tongue with side stops for the edges of the material edges and two spring-loaded swivel levers for pressing the material edges against one or the other side of the tongue and can move from the working position to a rest position be pivoted away from the feed plates.
  • the material guide can be adjusted in height to change the protrusion of the material edges over the feed plate, whereby this is effected by the operating personnel by means of a toggle lever or pedal and is carried out within an adjustable range or takes place automatically depending on the material edge thickness in the material guide, and in each case from an adjustable lowest position of the material guide (US-A-2 292 762 and US-A-2 370 547).
  • the invention has for its object to provide an overlock sewing machine for sewing insoles to shoe uppers of the type specified in the preamble of claim 1, which is trouble-free Shirping with even folds, especially when sewing along the insole tip and the tip of the shaft, is allowed, to the extent desired and with a wide variety of shaft and insole materials.
  • the invention is based on the knowledge that the gathering of the upper can be significantly improved if the working position of the tongue, which should then separate the upper and insole from one another, does not always remain the same, but rather taking into account the properties of the upper and insole material and the mutual behavior of the shaft and insole when passing through the feed plate and the pressure plate is selected and adapted to these parameters. It has been found that excellent results can be obtained in shirring shoelaces during the insole sewing.
  • the single-thread overlock sewing machine shown is used to sew the insole 1 onto the shoe upper 2 in the manufacture of shoes, the plastic outsole of which is then sprayed onto the insole 1.
  • Special measures have been taken to gather the shaft 2 when the insole tip 1 'is sewn onto the shaft tip 2', the tip 2 'of which is wider than the tip 1' of the insole 1. This excess width depends on the desired shoe shape in the area of the toe and is compensated for by the shirring.
  • the overlock sewing machine has a housing 3, a sewing needle 4, a gripper 5, a feed plate 6 and a pressure plate 7.
  • the sewing needle 4 extends approximately horizontally and is attached to the front end of a needle bar 8 protruding from the housing 3 on the front of the sewing machine.
  • the gripper 5 projects through an opening 9 in the housing 3, which is provided above the needle bar 8.
  • the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7 are arranged in the same horizontal plane directly below the sewing needle 4.
  • the feed plate 6 is provided on the outer circumference with a toothing 10 and is arranged inside or behind in the immediate vicinity of the housing 3 on a housing projection 3 '.
  • the feed plate 6 can be rotated step by step by means of a drive, not shown. In contrast, the pressure plate 7 is not assigned its own drive.
  • the two vertical axes of rotation V and A of the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7 extend in the same plane in which the sewing needle 4 also extends.
  • the pressure plate support arm 12 extends parallel to this vertical plane away from the housing 3, specifically horizontally, in order to pass over a section 12 ′ bent down at right angles into a section 12 ′′ bent at right angles to the vertical plane.
  • a carrier is attached, on which the pressure plate 7th is rotatably mounted about the axis A and which has an eccentric pin 13. This protrudes upwards and is received in a bore 14 at the free end of the support arm section 12 ′′, clamped therein with the aid of a screw 15 which passes through a side slot 14 ′ of the bore 14.
  • a carrier 16 for a lever 17 with a tongue 18, a servomotor 19 for actuating the lever 17 and a stop 20 for the lever 17 are provided on the front of the sewing machine.
  • the carrier 16 is fastened to the housing 3 by means of a lower arm 16 ′ projecting at right angles and has an upper vertical arm 16 ′′ and an upper horizontal arm 16 ′′ ′′.
  • a mounting bracket 19 'of the servomotor 19 is articulated to the vertical arm 16' 'by means of a horizontal bolt 21 with a head 21'.
  • Two forearms 22, 23 protrude horizontally from the horizontal arm 16 '' 'on the side facing away from the housing 3, at the free ends of which the lever 17 is pivotably mounted about a horizontal axis H or the stop 20 is provided.
  • the lever 17 has three arms 17 ', 17' ', 17' '', which are oriented radially to its pivot axis H.
  • the servomotor 19, which is designed as a double-acting compressed air cylinder with a piston rod 24, the free end of which is articulated to the arm 17 ', engages on the arm 17' which projects upwards, and can be pivoted about a horizontal axis.
  • the downward arm 17 '' of the lever 17 cooperates with the stop 20.
  • the stop 20 is formed by a screw 25, which can be screwed into a threaded bore 26 of the forearm 23 of the carrier 16 and locked in the respective rotational position by means of a manually operable rotary head 25 'at the end facing away from the arm 17' '.
  • the screw 25 is provided next to the rotary head 25 'with a ring 25' 'of projections evenly distributed in the circumferential direction, with which a leaf spring 27 fastened at the top of the forearm 23 of the carrier 16 interacts.
  • the laterally protruding arm 17 '''of the lever 17 merges into the tongue 18 via a section which is bent essentially at right angles and is approximately parallel to the lower arm 17''and which leads to the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7 is directed towards and complements the arm 17 '''of the lever 17 to a substantially C-shaped structure, as shown in FIG. 1. 3 and 4, the tongue 18 is tapered, ie conical and tapering away from the arm 17 '''of the lever 17 towards the free tongue end 18'. Towards this end 18 ', the two side surfaces 18''of the tongue 18 converge accordingly.
  • the feed plate 6 engages with the toothing 10 on the shoe upper 2 and takes it along.
  • the shaft 2 in turn takes the insole 1, which in turn takes the pressure plate 7 in the direction of the arrow 31 in FIGS. 3 and 4, which engages with the toothing 11 on the insole 1 and through which in the direction of the arrow 32 according to FIG. 2 to 4 acting on the support arm 12 spring load on the feed plate 6 is pressed.
  • the inner sole 1 is carried along by the shoe upper 2 partly via the overlock seam already formed and partly frictionally, this frictional connection depending on the coefficient of friction between the upper 2 and the inner sole 1 and the pressure with which they are between the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7 lie.
  • the tongue 18 is moved into the gap 30 between the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7 in order to separate the upper 2 and the insole 1, so that mutual hatching is possible.
  • the tongue 18 is namely extremely smooth on its side surfaces 18 ′′, so that the shoe upper 2 and the insole 1 can slide along it very well, usually with much less friction than must be overcome with mutual movement of the upper 2 and insole 1 if they lie directly against each other.
  • the servomotor 19 is pressurized with compressed air via a line 33 in order to retract the piston rod 24 and the lever 17 about the axis H in FIG. 1 counterclockwise until the lower arm rests 17 '' of the lever 17 at the stop 20 or at the left end of the screw 25 in FIG. 1.
  • the tongue 18 swivels into its working position in the advancing direction of the shoe upper 2 and the insole 1 illustrated by the arrow 34 in FIGS. 3, 4. From this, it is pivoted back into the rest position after the insole tip 1 'is sewn onto the shoe upper 2' by the actuating motor 19 being pressurized with compressed air via its other line 35.
  • the tongue 18 can be moved into different working positions or pivoted in the feed direction 34 of the shoe upper 2 and insole 1, which depend on the properties of the shoe upper 2 and the insole 1 and are selected accordingly and with the aid of the stop 20 or the Screw 25 can be adjusted.
  • 3 shows the working position in which the tongue 18 protrudes at least far onto the gap 30 between the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7, in FIG. 4 the working position in which the tongue 18 extends furthest over the gap 30 protrudes.
  • the tongue 18 is infinitely adjustable by means of the stop 20 or the screw 25, which, due to the tension of the sewing thread 36 illustrated in FIGS.
  • the servomotor 19 does not necessarily have to be designed as a double-acting compressed air cylinder. It is also possible to operate the lever 17 or tongue 18 without any servo motor 19 using a pedal or a toggle lever. Incidentally, it is also favorable when using a servomotor 19 to control it by means of a pedal or toggle lever, since then the insole 1 and the shoe upper 2 are then held in the required manner with both hands by the seamstress and to the feed plate 6 and Pressure plate 7 can be guided when the tongue 18 is pivoted into its working position for gathering the shaft.
  • the support arm 12 of the latter can be moved against the effect of its spring loading and thus against the direction of the arrow 32 in FIGS. 2 to 4.
  • This release of the pressure plate 7 from the feed plate 6 can be done in the same way as described for the actuation of the lever 17, which should also be movable on the forearm 22 of the carrier 16 in the direction of the double arrow 37 according to FIG. 2 by different To take insole and / or upper thickness into account.
  • the pressure plate 7 is also lifted from the feed plate 6, in that position of the sewing needle 4, which is shown in FIG. 2.
  • the spring loading of the support arm 12 in the direction of the arrow 32 is made effective again in order to press the pressure plate 7 back towards the feed plate 6.
  • This ventilation does not take place to the extent that the ventilation for inserting the sewing material 1, 2 between the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7 and for removing the sewing material 1, 2 from the overlock sewing machine.
  • the tension of the sewing thread 36 is increased during the sewing of the insole tip 1 'to the shoe upper 2', that is, as long as the tongue 18 is in its working position according to FIG. 3 or 4 or in between.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Description

Die Erfindung bezieht sich auf eine Überwendlichnähmaschine zum Annähen von Innensohlen an Schuhschäfte der im Oberbegriff des Patentanspruchs 1 angegebenen Gattung.The invention relates to an overlock sewing machine for sewing insoles to shoe uppers of the type specified in the preamble of claim 1.

Derartige Überwendlichnähmaschinen zum Annähen von Innensohlen an Schuhschäfte, was beispielsweise bei der Herstellung von Wendeschuhen und solchen Schuhen geschieht, deren Laufsohle auf die an den Schaft angenähte Innensohle aufgespritzt oder aufvulkanisiert wird, sind bekannt (DE-C-1 922 505). Dabei sind der beim Nähen am Schaft anliegende und schrittweise angetriebene Vorschubteller und der beim Nähen an der Innensohle anliegende Anpreßteller ohne eigenen Antrieb jeweils innen oder hinten in unmittelbare Nähe des Maschinengehäuses bzw. außen oder vorne auf der dem Maschinengehäuse abgewandten Seite des Vorschubtellers angeordnet und ist der Anpreßteller auf den Vorschubteller zu federbelastet, und zwar über einen entsprechend beweglichen Tragarm, an welchem der Anpreßteller drehbar gelagert ist. Die Zunge zum Trennen des Schuhschaftes und der Innensohle voneinander ist in deren Vorschubrichtung in den Spalt zwischen dem Vorschubteller und dem Anpreßteller schwenkbar, in dieser Richtung schneidenförmig ausgebildet und an einem am Maschinengehäuse schwenkbar gelagerten Hebel vorgesehen, welcher von Hand oder mittels eines Pedals oder Stellmotors betätigbar ist und mit einem Anschlagstift am Maschinengehäuse zusammenwirkt. Die Zunge wird dann in ihre Arbeitsposition geschwenkt, in welcher der Hebel am Anschlagstift anliegt, wenn beim Annähen einer Innensohle an einen Schuhschaft letzterer zur Beseitigung von Überweite gerafft werden soll, und zwar beim Nähen entlang der Innensohlenspitze und der Schaftspitze.Such overlock sewing machines for sewing insoles to shoe uppers, which occurs, for example, in the manufacture of reversible shoes and shoes whose outsole is sprayed or vulcanized onto the insole sewn onto the shaft, are known (DE-C-1 922 505). The feed plate, which is driven step by step when sewing on the shaft, and the pressure plate, which is attached to the insole when sewing, are each arranged inside or behind in the immediate vicinity of the machine housing or on the outside or front on the side of the feed plate facing away from the machine housing, and this is the one Pressure plate on the feed plate to be spring-loaded, via a correspondingly movable support arm, on which the pressure plate is rotatably mounted. The tongue for separating the shoe upper and the insole from one another can be pivoted in the direction of advance into the gap between the advance plate and the pressure plate, is designed in the form of a knife in this direction and is provided on a lever which is pivotably mounted on the machine housing and which can be actuated by hand or by means of a pedal or servomotor and interacts with a stop pin on the machine housing. The tongue is then pivoted into its working position, in which the lever rests on the stop pin, when an insole is to be gathered at a shoe upper to eliminate excess width, namely when sewing along the insole tip and the tip of the shaft.

Bekannt sind auch Überwendlichnähmaschinen zum Nähen von Strümpfen, welche mit zwei schrittweise angetriebenen Vorschubtellern und einem Nähgutleiter versehen sind. Der Nähgutleiter dient dazu, die beiden miteinander zu vernähenden Nähgutränder flach aneinanderliegend und mit einem vorgegebenen Überstand über die Vorschubteller in den Spalt zwischen den Vorschubtellern einlaufen zu lassen, so daß die oberhalb derselben hinund herbewegte Nähnadel in einem entsprechenden Abstand von den beiden Kanten der Nähgutränder in letztere einsticht. Der Nähgutleiter ist vor dem Spalt zwischen den Vorschubtellern angeordnet, weist eine mittlere Zunge mit seitlichen Anschlägen für die Kanten der Nähgutränder sowie zwei federbelastete Schwenkhebel zum Andrücken der Nähgutränder an die eine bzw. die andere Seite der Zunge auf und kann aus der Arbeitsstellung in eine Ruhestellung von den Vorschubtellern weg geschwenkt werden. Zusätzlich ist der Nähgutleiter zur Veränderung des Überstandes der Nähgutränder über die Vorschubteller höhenverstellbar, wobei diese zu den Vorschubtellerdrehachsen parallele Verstellung vom Bedienungspersonal mittels eines Kniehebels oder Pedals bewirkt wird und innerhalb eines einstellbaren Bereichs erfolgt oder aber automatisch in Abhängigkeit von der Nähgutranddicke im Nähgutleiter geschieht, und zwar jeweils von einer einstellbaren Tiefststellung des Nähgutleiters aus (US-A-2 292 762 und US-A-2 370 547).Overlock sewing machines for sewing stockings are also known, which are provided with two step-by-step feed plates and a material guide. The material manager is used to connect the two together sewing material edges to be sewn flat and with a predetermined protrusion over the feed plates into the gap between the feed plates, so that the sewing needle moving back and forth pierces the latter at a corresponding distance from the two edges of the material edges. The material guide is arranged in front of the gap between the feed plates, has a middle tongue with side stops for the edges of the material edges and two spring-loaded swivel levers for pressing the material edges against one or the other side of the tongue and can move from the working position to a rest position be pivoted away from the feed plates. In addition, the material guide can be adjusted in height to change the protrusion of the material edges over the feed plate, whereby this is effected by the operating personnel by means of a toggle lever or pedal and is carried out within an adjustable range or takes place automatically depending on the material edge thickness in the material guide, and in each case from an adjustable lowest position of the material guide (US-A-2 292 762 and US-A-2 370 547).

Der Erfindung liegt die Aufgabe zugrunde, eine Überwendlichnähmaschine zum Annähen von Innensohlen an Schuhschäfte der im Oberbegriff des Patentanspruchs 1 angegebenen Gattung zu schaffen, welche ein störungsfreies Schaftraffen unter gleichmäßiger Faltenbildung, insbesondere beim Nähen entlang der Innensohlenspitze und der Schaftspitze, erlaubt, und zwar im jeweils gewünschten Ausmaß und bei den unterschiedlichsten Schaft- und Innensohlenmaterialien.The invention has for its object to provide an overlock sewing machine for sewing insoles to shoe uppers of the type specified in the preamble of claim 1, which is trouble-free Shirping with even folds, especially when sewing along the insole tip and the tip of the shaft, is allowed, to the extent desired and with a wide variety of shaft and insole materials.

Diese Aufgabe ist durch die im kennzeichnenden Teil des Patentanspruchs 1 angegebenen Merkmale gelöst. Vorteilhafte Ausgestaltungen der erfindungsgemäßen Überwendlichnähmaschine zum Annähen von Innensohlen an Schuhschäfte sind in den weiteren Patentansprüchen angegeben.This object is achieved by the features specified in the characterizing part of patent claim 1. Advantageous embodiments of the overlock sewing machine according to the invention for sewing insoles to shoe uppers are specified in the further patent claims.

Die Erfindung beruht auf der Erkenntnis, daß sich das Schaftraffen wesentlich verbessern läßt, wenn die Arbeitsposition der Zunge, welche dann den Schuhschaft und die Innensohle voneinander trennen soll, nicht immer gleich bleibt, sondern vielmehr unter Berücksichtigung der Schaft- sowie Innensohlenmaterialeigenschaften und des gegenseitigen Verhaltens von Schaft und Innensohle beim Passieren des Vorschubtellers und des Anpreßtellers gewählt und diesen Parametern angepaßt wird. Es wurde herausgefunden, daß sich so ausgezeichnete Ergebnisse beim Raffen von Schuhschäften während des Innensohlenannähens erzielen lassen.The invention is based on the knowledge that the gathering of the upper can be significantly improved if the working position of the tongue, which should then separate the upper and insole from one another, does not always remain the same, but rather taking into account the properties of the upper and insole material and the mutual behavior of the shaft and insole when passing through the feed plate and the pressure plate is selected and adapted to these parameters. It has been found that excellent results can be obtained in shirring shoelaces during the insole sewing.

Nachstehend ist eine Ausführungsform der erfindungsgemäßen Überwendlichnähmaschine zum Annähen von Innensohlen an Schuhschäfte anhand von Zeichnungen beispielsweise beschrieben. Darin zeigt:

Fig. 1
eine Vorderansicht ohne Nähgut;
Fig. 2
die Ansicht in Richtung des Pfeils II in Fig. 1 beim Nähen;
Fig. 3
die Draufsicht in Richtung des Pfeils III in Fig. 2 in größerem Maßstab, wobei diejenige Arbeitsposition der Zunge zum Trennen des Schuhschaftes und der Innensohle voneinander veranschaulicht ist, in welcher die Zunge am weitesten vom Spalt zwischen dem Vorschubteller und dem Anpreßteller entfernt ist; und
Fig. 4
die Draufsicht gemäß Fig. 3, wobei diejenige Arbeitsposition der Zunge dargestellt ist, in welcher sie am weitesten über den Spalt zwischen dem Vorschubteller und dem Anpreßteller hinausragt.
An embodiment of the overlock sewing machine according to the invention for sewing insoles to shoe uppers is described for example with reference to drawings. It shows:
Fig. 1
a front view without material;
Fig. 2
the view in the direction of arrow II in Figure 1 when sewing.
Fig. 3
the plan view in the direction of arrow III in Figure 2 on a larger scale, illustrating the working position of the tongue for separating the shoe upper and the insole from each other, in which the tongue is furthest from the gap between the feed plate and the pressure plate. and
Fig. 4
3, the working position of the tongue being shown in which it projects the furthest beyond the gap between the feed plate and the pressure plate.

Die dargestellte Einfaden-Überwendlichnähmaschine dient zum Annähen der Innensohle 1 an den Schuhschaft 2 bei der Herstellung von Schuhen, deren Laufsohle aus Kunststoff dann auf die Innensohle 1 aufgespritzt wird. Es sind besondere Maßnahmen getroffen, um beim Annähen der Innensohlenspitze 1' an die Schaftspitze 2' den Schaft 2 zu raffen, dessen Spitze 2' weiter als die Spitze 1' der Innensohle 1 ist. Diese Überweite hängt von der jeweils gewünschten Schuhform im Bereich der Schuhspitze ab und wird durch das Raffen kompensiert.The single-thread overlock sewing machine shown is used to sew the insole 1 onto the shoe upper 2 in the manufacture of shoes, the plastic outsole of which is then sprayed onto the insole 1. Special measures have been taken to gather the shaft 2 when the insole tip 1 'is sewn onto the shaft tip 2', the tip 2 'of which is wider than the tip 1' of the insole 1. This excess width depends on the desired shoe shape in the area of the toe and is compensated for by the shirring.

Die Überwendlichnähmaschine weist ein Gehäuse 3, eine Nähnadel 4, einen Greifer 5, einen Vorschubteller 6 und einen Anpreßteller 7 auf. Die Nähnadel 4 erstreckt sich etwa waagerecht und ist am vorderen Ende einer auf der Nähmaschinenvorderseite aus dem Gehäuse 3 herausragenden Nadelstange 8 befestigt. Der Greifer 5 ragt durch eine Öffnung 9 des Gehäuses 3, welche oberhalb der Nadelstange 8 vorgesehen ist. Der Vorschubteller 6 und der Anpreßteller 7 sind in derselben waagerechten Ebene unmittelbar unterhalb der Nähnadel 4 angeordnet.The overlock sewing machine has a housing 3, a sewing needle 4, a gripper 5, a feed plate 6 and a pressure plate 7. The sewing needle 4 extends approximately horizontally and is attached to the front end of a needle bar 8 protruding from the housing 3 on the front of the sewing machine. The gripper 5 projects through an opening 9 in the housing 3, which is provided above the needle bar 8. The feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7 are arranged in the same horizontal plane directly below the sewing needle 4.

Der Vorschubteller 6 ist am Außenumfang mit einer Verzahnung 10 versehen und innen oder hinten in unmittelbarer Nähe des Gehäuses 3 auf einem Gehäusevorsprung 3' angeordnet. Der ebenfalls am Außenumfang mit einer Verzahnung 11 versehene Anpreßteller 7 ist außen oder vorne auf der dem Gehäuse 3 abgewandten Seite des Vorschubtellers 6 angeordnet, und zwar an einem auf der Nähmaschinenvorderseite aus dem Gehäuse 3 herausragenden Tragarm 12, welcher im Gehäuse 3 längsbeweglich geführt und auf das Gehäuse 3 zu federbelastet ist. Der Vorschubteller 6 ist mittels eines nicht dargestellten Antriebs schrittweise drehbar. Demgegenüber ist dem Anpreßteller 7 kein eigener Antrieb zugeordnet.The feed plate 6 is provided on the outer circumference with a toothing 10 and is arranged inside or behind in the immediate vicinity of the housing 3 on a housing projection 3 '. The pressure plate 7, which is also provided on the outer circumference with a toothing 11, is arranged outside or in front on the side of the feed plate 6 facing away from the housing 3, specifically on a support arm 12 which projects out of the housing 3 on the front of the sewing machine and which is guided in the housing 3 in a longitudinally movable manner and on the housing 3 is too spring-loaded. The feed plate 6 can be rotated step by step by means of a drive, not shown. In contrast, the pressure plate 7 is not assigned its own drive.

Die beiden vertikalen Drehachsen V und A des Vorschubtellers 6 bzw. des Anpreßtellers 7 erstrecken sich in derselben Ebene, in welcher auch die Nähnadel 4 verläuft. Der Anpreßteller-Tragarm 12 erstreckt sich parallel zu dieser vertikalen Ebene vom Gehäuse 3 weg, und zwar waagerecht, um über einen rechtwinklig nach unten abgebogenen Abschnitt 12' in einen rechtwinklig auf die vertikale Ebene zu abgebogenen Abschnitt 12'' überzugehen. An dessen freiem Ende ist ein Träger befestigt, an welchem der Anpreßteller 7 um die Achse A drehbar gelagert ist und welcher einen exzentrischen Zapfen 13 aufweist. Dieser steht nach oben ab und ist in einer Bohrung 14 am freien Ende des Tragarmabschnitts 12'' aufgenommen, darin verspannt mit Hilfe einer Schraube 15, welche einen Seitenschlitz 14' der Bohrung 14 durchsetzt.The two vertical axes of rotation V and A of the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7 extend in the same plane in which the sewing needle 4 also extends. The pressure plate support arm 12 extends parallel to this vertical plane away from the housing 3, specifically horizontally, in order to pass over a section 12 ′ bent down at right angles into a section 12 ″ bent at right angles to the vertical plane. At its free end, a carrier is attached, on which the pressure plate 7th is rotatably mounted about the axis A and which has an eccentric pin 13. This protrudes upwards and is received in a bore 14 at the free end of the support arm section 12 ″, clamped therein with the aid of a screw 15 which passes through a side slot 14 ′ of the bore 14.

Auf der Nähmaschinenvorderseite ist ein Träger 16 für einen Hebel 17 mit einer Zunge 18, einen Stellmotor 19 zur Betätigung des Hebels 17 und einen Anschlag 20 für den Hebel 17 vorgesehen. Der Träger 16 ist mittels eines unteren, rechtwinklig abstehenden Armes 16' am Gehäuse 3 befestigt und weist einen oberen senkrechten Arm 16'' sowie einen oberen waagerechten Arm 16'''auf. Am senkrechten Arm 16'' ist eine Befestigungslasche 19' des Stellmotors 19 mittels eines waagerechen Bolzens 21 mit Kopf 21' angelenkt. Vom waagerechten Arm 16''' stehen auf der dem Gehäuse 3 abgewandten Seite zwei Vorderarme 22, 23 waagerecht ab, an deren freien Enden jeweils der Hebel 17 um eine waagerechte Achse H schwenkbar gelagert bzw. der Anschlag 20 vorgesehen ist. Der Hebel 17 weist drei Arme 17', 17'', 17''' auf, welche radial zu seiner Schwenkachse H orientiert sind. An dem nach oben abstehenden Arm 17' greift der Stellmotor 19 an, welcher als doppelt wirkender Druckluftzylinder mit einer Kolbenstange 24 ausgebildet ist, deren freies Ende an den Arm 17' angelenkt ist, und zwar um eine waagerechte Achse schwenkbar.A carrier 16 for a lever 17 with a tongue 18, a servomotor 19 for actuating the lever 17 and a stop 20 for the lever 17 are provided on the front of the sewing machine. The carrier 16 is fastened to the housing 3 by means of a lower arm 16 ′ projecting at right angles and has an upper vertical arm 16 ″ and an upper horizontal arm 16 ″ ″. A mounting bracket 19 'of the servomotor 19 is articulated to the vertical arm 16' 'by means of a horizontal bolt 21 with a head 21'. Two forearms 22, 23 protrude horizontally from the horizontal arm 16 '' 'on the side facing away from the housing 3, at the free ends of which the lever 17 is pivotably mounted about a horizontal axis H or the stop 20 is provided. The lever 17 has three arms 17 ', 17' ', 17' '', which are oriented radially to its pivot axis H. The servomotor 19, which is designed as a double-acting compressed air cylinder with a piston rod 24, the free end of which is articulated to the arm 17 ', engages on the arm 17' which projects upwards, and can be pivoted about a horizontal axis.

Der nach unten gerichtete Arm 17'' des Hebels 17 wirkt mit dem Anschlag 20 zusammen. Der Anschlag 20 ist von einer Schraube 25 gebildet, welche mittels eines von Hand betätigbaren Drehkopfes 25' an dem dem Arm 17'' abgewandten Ende in einer Gewindebohrung 26 des Vorderarms 23 des Trägers 16 verschraubbar und in der jeweiligen Drehstellung verrastbar ist. Dazu ist die Schraube 25 neben den Drehkopf 25' mit einem Kranz 25'' von in Umfangsrichtung gleichmäßig verteilten Vorsprüngen versehen, womit eine oben auf dem Vorderarm 23 des Trägers 16 befestigte Blattfeder 27 zusammenwirkt.The downward arm 17 '' of the lever 17 cooperates with the stop 20. The stop 20 is formed by a screw 25, which can be screwed into a threaded bore 26 of the forearm 23 of the carrier 16 and locked in the respective rotational position by means of a manually operable rotary head 25 'at the end facing away from the arm 17' '. For this purpose, the screw 25 is provided next to the rotary head 25 'with a ring 25' 'of projections evenly distributed in the circumferential direction, with which a leaf spring 27 fastened at the top of the forearm 23 of the carrier 16 interacts.

Der seitlich abstehende Arm 17''' des Hebels 17 geht über einen im wesentlichen rechtwinklig abgebogenen und zum unteren Arm 17'' etwa parallelen Abschnitt in die Zunge 18 über, welche zum Vorschubteller 6 und zum Anpreßteller 7 hin gerichtet ist und den Arm 17''' des Hebels 17 zu einer im wesentlichen C-förmigen Struktur ergänzt, wie Fig. 1 erkennen läßt. Gemäß Fig. 3 und 4 ist die Zunge 18 spitz zulaufend ausgebildet, d.h. konisch und sich vom Arm 17''' des Hebels 17 weg zum freien Zungenende 18' hin verjüngend. Zu diesem Ende 18' hin konvergieren die beiden Seitenflächen 18'' der Zunge 18 entsprechend.The laterally protruding arm 17 '''of the lever 17 merges into the tongue 18 via a section which is bent essentially at right angles and is approximately parallel to the lower arm 17''and which leads to the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7 is directed towards and complements the arm 17 '''of the lever 17 to a substantially C-shaped structure, as shown in FIG. 1. 3 and 4, the tongue 18 is tapered, ie conical and tapering away from the arm 17 '''of the lever 17 towards the free tongue end 18'. Towards this end 18 ', the two side surfaces 18''of the tongue 18 converge accordingly.

Beim Nähen wirken die in der die vertikalen Drehachsen V und A des Vorschubtellers 6 bzw. Anpreßtellers 7 enthaltenden Ebene in Richtung des Doppelpfeils 28 gemäß Fig. 2 bis 4 hin- und herschwingende Nähnadel 4 und der Greifer 5 auf die übliche Art und Weise zusammen, um die Innensohle 1 und den Schuhschaft 2, welche durch den schrittweise im Takte der Nähnadelschwingungen in Richtung des Pfeils 29 gemäß Fig. 3 und 4 gedrehten Vorschubteller 6 bewegt werden, mittels einer Überwendlichnaht miteinander zu verbinden, und zwar entlang der Ränder, mit denen sie beim Hindurchlaufen durch den Spalt 30 zwischen dem Vorschubteller 6 und dem Anpreßteller 7 über dieselben nach oben vorstehen, um von der Nähnadel 4 durchstochen zu werden, wie in Fig. 2 dargestellt. Der Vorschubteller 6 greift mit seiner Verzahnung 10 am Schuhschaft 2 an und nimmt ihn mit. Der Schaft 2 wiederum nimmt die Innensohle 1 mit, welche ihrerseits den Anpreßteller 7 in Richtung des Pfeils 31 in Fig. 3 und 4 mitnimmt, der mit seiner Verzahnung 11 an der Innensohle 1 angreift und durch die in Richtung des Pfeils 32 gemäß Fig. 2 bis 4 auf den Tragarm 12 einwirkende Federbelastung auf den Vorschubteller 6 zu gedrückt wird. Die Mitnahme der Innensohle 1 durch den Schuhschaft 2 erfolgt teilweise über die bereits gebildete Überwendlichnaht und teilweise reibschlüssig, wobei dieser Reibschluß vom Reibungskoeffizienten zwischen dem Schaft 2 und der Innensohle 1 sowie dem Druck abhängt, mit welchem sie zwischen dem Vorschubteller 6 und dem Anpreßteller 7 aneinander liegen.During sewing, the sewing needle 4 and the gripper 5, which oscillate back and forth in the plane containing the vertical axes of rotation V and A of the feed plate 6 or pressure plate 7, reciprocate in the direction of the double arrow 28 according to FIGS. 2 to 4, to connect the insole 1 and the shoe upper 2, which are moved by the feed plate 6 rotated step by step in the rhythm of the sewing needle vibrations in the direction of the arrow 29 according to FIGS. 3 and 4, by means of an overlock seam, along the edges with which they when passing through the gap 30 between the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7 protrude above them to be pierced by the sewing needle 4, as shown in Fig. 2. The feed plate 6 engages with the toothing 10 on the shoe upper 2 and takes it along. The shaft 2 in turn takes the insole 1, which in turn takes the pressure plate 7 in the direction of the arrow 31 in FIGS. 3 and 4, which engages with the toothing 11 on the insole 1 and through which in the direction of the arrow 32 according to FIG. 2 to 4 acting on the support arm 12 spring load on the feed plate 6 is pressed. The inner sole 1 is carried along by the shoe upper 2 partly via the overlock seam already formed and partly frictionally, this frictional connection depending on the coefficient of friction between the upper 2 and the inner sole 1 and the pressure with which they are between the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7 lie.

Zum Raffen der Spitze 2' des Schuhschaftes 2 beim Annähen der Spitze 1' der Innensohle 1 wird die Zunge 18 in den Spalt 30 zwischen dem Vorschubteller 6 und dem Anpreßteller 7 bewegt, um den Schaft 2 und die Innensohle 1 voneinander zu trennen, so daß ein gegenseitiger Schlupf möglich ist. Die Zunge 18 ist an ihren Seitenflächen 18'' nämlich äußerst glatt, so daß der Schuhschaft 2 und die Innensohle 1 daran sehr gut entlanggleiten können, in der Regel mit sehr viel weniger Reibung, als bei gegenseitiger Bewegung von Schuhschaft 2 und Innensohle 1 dann überwunden werden muß, wenn sie unmittelbar aneinander liegen.To gather the tip 2 'of the shoe upper 2 when sewing on the tip 1' of the insole 1, the tongue 18 is moved into the gap 30 between the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7 in order to separate the upper 2 and the insole 1, so that mutual hatching is possible. The tongue 18 is namely extremely smooth on its side surfaces 18 ″, so that the shoe upper 2 and the insole 1 can slide along it very well, usually with much less friction than must be overcome with mutual movement of the upper 2 and insole 1 if they lie directly against each other.

Während des Annähens der Innensohlenspitze 1' an die Schuhschaftspitze 2' wird der Stellmotor 19 über eine Leitung 33 mit Druckluft beaufschlagt, um die Kolbenstange 24 einzuziehen und den Hebel 17 um die Achse H in Fig. 1 entgegen dem Uhrzeigersinn bis zur Anlage des unteren Arms 17'' des Hebels 17 am Anschlag 20 bzw. an dem in Fig. 1 linken Ende der Schraube 25 zu verschwenken. Dabei schwenkt die Zunge 18 in der durch den Pfeil 34 in Fig. 3, 4 veranschaulichten Vorschubrichtung des Schuhschaftes 2 und der Innensohle 1 in ihre Arbeitsstellung. Aus dieser wird sie nach dem Annähen der Innensohlenspitze 1' an die Schuhschaftspitze 2' wieder in die Ruhestellung zurückgeschwenkt, indem der Stellmotor 19 über seine andere Leitung 35 mit Druckluft beaufschlagt wird.During the sewing of the insole tip 1 'to the shoe upper 2', the servomotor 19 is pressurized with compressed air via a line 33 in order to retract the piston rod 24 and the lever 17 about the axis H in FIG. 1 counterclockwise until the lower arm rests 17 '' of the lever 17 at the stop 20 or at the left end of the screw 25 in FIG. 1. The tongue 18 swivels into its working position in the advancing direction of the shoe upper 2 and the insole 1 illustrated by the arrow 34 in FIGS. 3, 4. From this, it is pivoted back into the rest position after the insole tip 1 'is sewn onto the shoe upper 2' by the actuating motor 19 being pressurized with compressed air via its other line 35.

Wesentlich ist, daß die Zunge 18 in unterschiedliche Arbeitspositionen bewegbar bzw. in der Vorschubrichtung 34 von Schuhschaft 2 und Innensohle 1 schwenkbar ist, welche von den Eigenschaften des Schuhschaftes 2 und der Innensohle 1 abhängen und entsprechend gewählt sowie mit Hilfe des Anschlags 20 bzw. der Schraube 25 eingestellt werden. In Fig. 3 ist diejenige Arbeitsposition wiedergegeben, in welcher die Zunge 18 am wenigstens weit auf den Spalt 30 zwischen dem Vorschubteller 6 und dem Anpreßteller 7 zu ragt, in Fig. 4 diejenige Arbeitsposition, in welcher die Zunge 18 am weitesten über den Spalt 30 hinaus ragt. Zwischen diesen beiden Extremstellungen ist die Zunge 18 mittels des Anschlags 20 bzw. der Schraube 25 stufenlos verstellbar, was auch infolge der Spannung des in Fig. 3 und 4 veranschaulichten Nähfadens 36 unterschiedlich starkes Schaftraffen mit unterschiedlich hohen Schaftfalten F bewirkt.It is essential that the tongue 18 can be moved into different working positions or pivoted in the feed direction 34 of the shoe upper 2 and insole 1, which depend on the properties of the shoe upper 2 and the insole 1 and are selected accordingly and with the aid of the stop 20 or the Screw 25 can be adjusted. 3 shows the working position in which the tongue 18 protrudes at least far onto the gap 30 between the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7, in FIG. 4 the working position in which the tongue 18 extends furthest over the gap 30 protrudes. Between these two extreme positions, the tongue 18 is infinitely adjustable by means of the stop 20 or the screw 25, which, due to the tension of the sewing thread 36 illustrated in FIGS.

Es kann dafür Vorsorge getroffen sein, diejenige Arbeitsposition, in welche die Zunge 18 jeweils geschwenkt werden kann, anzuzeigen, und zwar mit Hilfe des Anschlags 20 bzw. der Schraube 25 auf die Art und Weise gemäß DE-U 8 516 202. Es braucht lediglich die Schraube 25 über ein Potentiometer mit einem Gerät zur digitalen Anzeige der jeweiligen Axialstellung der Schraube 25 verbunden zu werden.Provision can be made to display the working position into which the tongue 18 can be pivoted, with the aid of the stop 20 or the screw 25 in the manner according to DE-U 8 516 202. It only needs the screw 25 to be connected via a potentiometer to a device for digital display of the respective axial position of the screw 25.

Der Stellmotor 19 muß nicht unbedingt als doppelt wirkender Druckluftzylinder ausgebildet sein. Auch ist es möglich, den Hebel 17 bzw. Zunge 18 ohne jeglichen Stellmotor 19 mit Hilfe eines Pedals oder eines Kniehebels zu betätigen. Im übrigen ist es auch bei Verwendung eines Stellmotors 19 günstig, denselben mittels eines Pedals oder Kniehebels anzusteuern, da dann die Innensohle 1 und der Schuhschaft 2 vom Näher oder von der Näherin auch dann in der erforderlichen Weise mit beiden Händen festgehalten und zum Vorschubteller 6 sowie Anpreßteller 7 hingeführt werden können, wenn die Zunge 18 in ihre Arbeitsposition zum Schaftraffen verschwenkt wird.The servomotor 19 does not necessarily have to be designed as a double-acting compressed air cylinder. It is also possible to operate the lever 17 or tongue 18 without any servo motor 19 using a pedal or a toggle lever. Incidentally, it is also favorable when using a servomotor 19 to control it by means of a pedal or toggle lever, since then the insole 1 and the shoe upper 2 are then held in the required manner with both hands by the seamstress and to the feed plate 6 and Pressure plate 7 can be guided when the tongue 18 is pivoted into its working position for gathering the shaft.

Zum Einsetzen der Innensohle 1 und des Schuhschaftes 2 zwischen den Vorschubteller 6 und den Anpreßteller 7 ist der Tragarm 12 des letzteren entgegen der Wirkung seiner Federbelastung und somit entgegen der Richtung des Pfeils 32 in Fig. 2 bis 4 bewegbar. Dieses Lüften des Anpreßtellers 7 vom Vorschubteller 6 kann auf dieselbe Art und Weise geschehen, wie für die Betätigung des Hebels 17 geschildert, welcher im übrigen am Vorderarm 22 des Trägers 16 auch in Richtung des Doppelpfeils 37 gemäß Fig. 2 beweglich sein sollte, um unterschiedlichen Innensohlen- und/oder Schuhschaftdicken Rechnung zu tragen.To insert the insole 1 and the shoe upper 2 between the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7, the support arm 12 of the latter can be moved against the effect of its spring loading and thus against the direction of the arrow 32 in FIGS. 2 to 4. This release of the pressure plate 7 from the feed plate 6 can be done in the same way as described for the actuation of the lever 17, which should also be movable on the forearm 22 of the carrier 16 in the direction of the double arrow 37 according to FIG. 2 by different To take insole and / or upper thickness into account.

Immer dann, wenn die Zunge 18 in ihre Arbeitsstellung geschwenkt wird, wird auch der Anpreßteller 7 vom Vorschubteller 6 gelüftet, und zwar in derjenigen Stellung der Nähnadel 4, welche in Fig. 2 wiedergegeben ist. Sobald die Zunge 18 ihre Arbeitsstellung eingenommen hat, wird die Federbelastung des Tragarms 12 in Richtung des Pfeils 32 wieder wirksam gemacht, um den Anpreßteller 7 wieder zum Vorschubteller 6 hinzudrücken. Dieses Lüften erfolgt nicht in dem Ausmaß, wie das Lüften zum Einsetzen des Nähgutes 1, 2 zwischen den Vorschubteller 6 und den Anpreßteller 7 und zum Entnehmen des Nähgutes 1, 2 aus der Überwendlichnähmaschine. Vorteilhafterweise wird die Spannung des Nähfadens 36 während des Annähens der Innensohlenspitze 1' an die Schuhschaftspitze 2' erhöht, also so lange, wie die Zunge 18 sich in ihrer Arbeitsposition gemäß Fig. 3 oder 4 oder dazwischen befindet.Whenever the tongue 18 is pivoted into its working position, the pressure plate 7 is also lifted from the feed plate 6, in that position of the sewing needle 4, which is shown in FIG. 2. As soon as the tongue 18 has assumed its working position, the spring loading of the support arm 12 in the direction of the arrow 32 is made effective again in order to press the pressure plate 7 back towards the feed plate 6. This ventilation does not take place to the extent that the ventilation for inserting the sewing material 1, 2 between the feed plate 6 and the pressure plate 7 and for removing the sewing material 1, 2 from the overlock sewing machine. Advantageously, the tension of the sewing thread 36 is increased during the sewing of the insole tip 1 'to the shoe upper 2', that is, as long as the tongue 18 is in its working position according to FIG. 3 or 4 or in between.

Claims (9)

  1. Over-edge sewing machine for sewing insoles to shoe uppers with
    a) an intermittently driven feed plate (6) for pressing against the upper (2) and a non-driven presser plate (7) for engaging the insole (1), which are spring-urged towards one another, and
    b) a tongue (18) which is moveable into the gap (30) between the feed plate (6) and the presser plate (7) for gathering the upper (2), in order to separate the upper (2) and the insole (1) to make a relative mutual slip possible,
    characterised in that the tongue (18) is moveable into different operative positions in which it projects to a greater or lesser extent into the gap (30) or beyond the gap (30) in the direction of feed (34) according to the characteristics of the shoe upper (2) and the insole (1).
  2. Over-edge sewing machine according to claim 1, characterised in that the tongue (18) is capable of being swung into the operative position in the direction of feed (34) of the shoe upper (2) and the insole (1).
  3. Over-edge sewing machine according to claim 2, characterised by a stop (20) for limiting the swinging movement of the tongue (18) and which is adjustable to alter the operative position of the tongue (18).
  4. Over-edge sewing machine according to claim 3, characterised in that the stop (20) is formed by a screw (25) which can be turned in a threaded bore (26) by means of a manually operated rotary knob (25') and can be locked in its current position.
  5. Over-edge sewing machine according to claim 4, characterised in that the screw (25) can be locked by means of a leaf spring (27) which cooperates with a detent ring (25'') on the screw (25).
  6. Over-edge sewing machine according to claim 4 or 5, characterised in that the screw (25) is connected through a potentiometer to equipment for indicating digitally the current axial position of the screw (25).
  7. Over-edge sewing machine according to one of the foregoing claims, characterised in that the tongue (18) is of conical shape and tapers down towards its free end (18').
  8. Over-edge sewing machine according to one of the foregoing claims, characterised in that the tongue (18) is capable of being moved or swung into its operative position by means of a pedal or knee lever or by means of a positioning motor (19).
  9. Over-edge sewing machine according to one of the foregoing claims, characterised in that the presser plate (7) is arranged outwards of the feed plate (6) and is mounted rotatably on a supporting arm (12) which is moveable and is spring-urged towards the feed plate (6).
EP92107558A 1991-05-07 1992-05-05 Overedge sewing machine for sewing insoles to shoe uppers Expired - Lifetime EP0512473B1 (en)

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DE4114920 1991-05-07
DE4114920A DE4114920C1 (en) 1991-05-07 1991-05-07

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JP (1) JPH05123463A (en)
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FR2747019B1 (en) * 1996-04-04 1998-07-03 Cap Coeur Sarl METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING A REVERSIBLE FOOTWEAR, IN PARTICULAR A FOOTWEAR AND FOOTWEAR OBTAINED
ITBO20040665A1 (en) * 2004-10-27 2005-01-27 Mario Ciucani MACHINE FOR SEWING OF VARIOUS ITEMS, IN PARTICULAR AN OPEN UPPER TO A SHAPED ELEMENT ASSOCIATED WITH A BOTTOM OF A FOOTWEAR
TWI489954B (en) 2013-06-07 2015-07-01 Chee Siang Ind Co Ltd Pull the machine
CN103741382B (en) * 2013-12-17 2016-01-20 苏州鑫帛泰纺织科研有限公司 Fold sewing device
KR101495009B1 (en) * 2014-11-10 2015-02-24 조세제 Automatic yarn cutting device of sewing machine
CN105747378A (en) * 2014-12-19 2016-07-13 天津市德天达科技有限公司 Method for lasting
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CN108914398B (en) * 2018-09-29 2024-01-30 广东金悦来自动化设备有限公司 Automatic sewing equipment for shoe tongue woven belt
KR102602672B1 (en) * 2022-06-20 2023-11-14 조세제 Shoemaking sewing machine
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US5257589A (en) 1993-11-02
ES2080983T3 (en) 1996-02-16
DE59203718D1 (en) 1995-10-26
DE4114920C1 (en) 1992-11-05
TW199857B (en) 1993-02-11
JPH05123463A (en) 1993-05-21
KR920021086A (en) 1992-12-18
EP0512473A1 (en) 1992-11-11

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