EP0329866A1 - Fabrication de vêtements - Google Patents

Fabrication de vêtements Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0329866A1
EP0329866A1 EP88301461A EP88301461A EP0329866A1 EP 0329866 A1 EP0329866 A1 EP 0329866A1 EP 88301461 A EP88301461 A EP 88301461A EP 88301461 A EP88301461 A EP 88301461A EP 0329866 A1 EP0329866 A1 EP 0329866A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
ply
rollers
edge
panel
plies
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP88301461A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Stefanos Koudis
Paul Michael Taylor
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
University of Hull
Corah Ltd
Original Assignee
University of Hull
Corah Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by University of Hull, Corah Ltd filed Critical University of Hull
Publication of EP0329866A1 publication Critical patent/EP0329866A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H42/00—Multi-step production lines for making clothes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B9/00—Undergarments
    • A41B9/001—Underpants or briefs
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B9/00—Undergarments
    • A41B9/02—Drawers or underpants for men, with or without inserted crotch or seat parts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • A41H43/00—Other methods, machines or appliances
    • A41H43/02—Handling garment parts or blanks, e.g. feeding, piling, separating or reversing
    • A41H43/025—Folding, unfolding or turning over
    • A41H43/0257—Folding
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B33/00—Devices incorporated in sewing machines for supplying or removing the work
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2207/00—Use of special elements
    • D05D2207/02—Pneumatic or hydraulic devices
    • D05D2207/04—Suction or blowing devices

Definitions

  • the invention is concerned with improvements in or relating to textile garments and in particular to the manufacture of briefs having a concealed gusset.
  • the invention provides apparatus for use in the manufacture of briefs having a concealed gusset the apparatus comprising first and second means for supporting respectively a back panel and a front panel of said briefs, said front panel comprising a portion having a double thickness of material in at least a marginal region thereof, the marginal portions of which front panel are to be seamed to corresponding marginal portions of the back panel to complete said gusset, a ply separation arrangement adapted to separate the plies of the double thickness of material and to turn one ply in a first reverse direction so that its edge is in register with the edge of the supported back ply on one side thereof and to turn the second ply in a second reverse direction so that the edge of the second ply is in register with said edge of the back ply at its opposite side, means being provided for seaming together marginal portions of the two plies and the panel adjacent the edges, and for everting the seamed gusset so formed so as to conceal the seam thereof.
  • the means for supporting the back panel and the front panel may comprise a pair of rollers each of which is adapted to engage waist marginal portions of one of said panels and to rotate so as to fold or roll the appropriate panel until the free edges are drawn near to the rollers, and plate means upon which the panels are laid with the edge of the back panel adjacent the seaming means and the edges of the front panel facing ply separation means, said ply separating arrangement comprising a pair of separation rollers each adapted to engage one of said plies to separate them and to deflect them in opposed directions.
  • the separated plies may be received each on one of two receiving members, a first member of which is capable of turning the associated ply outwardly in a direction away from the second ply of the front panel and to turn the ply back on itself in a first reverse direction, said second member being capable of turning the second ply in a direction away from the first ply and to turn the second ply back on itself in a second reverse direction, so that the edges of each ply are in register with the edge of the back panel.
  • the means for everting the seamed gusset comprise turning means adapted to move two rollers of the first and second support means respectively from a first position in which they lie side by side in a substantially parallel manner in a plane passing through both said rollers to a second position in which they have turned in that plane by an obtuse angle at least approaching 180°.
  • the separation rollers of said ply separation means thereof may be perforated so as permit suction applied to the interior to bring about engagement of the material of the briefs by the rollers and the members.
  • Figure 1 shows a form of apparatus according to the present invention for seaming a front panel to a back panel of a pair of men's briefs to form a concealed gusset seam.
  • the apparatus has a support table 10 on which a back panel 12 and front panel 14 of the briefs are positioned. These panels are positioned with the waist portions adjacent and parallel to one another and marginal portions 16 of the back panel, and marginal portions 18, 20 of the double thickness front panel facing opposite end edges of the table.
  • the apparatus also has support means 20 for the front and back plies, which are to be seamed together to form the gusset.
  • the support means 22 comprises two parallel, rotatable rollers 24, 26 each of which is hollow and has a number of suction holes 28, 30 in its surface, the holes being spaced along the length of the roller.
  • the rollers are positioned in a horizontal attitude over the support table 10 and, as well as being rotatable (arrows A), can also be pivoted about a substantially vertical axis (arrows B) which passes through the rotational axis of the roller at a point outside the roller and away from the table 10.
  • the rollers can also be moved towards and away (arrow C) from one another by suitable means 32.
  • the rollers illustrated are rigid, it may be arranged that the rollers are comprised of segments pivotally hinged to one another to assist in the everting step described later in this specification.
  • the back and front panels 12, 14 are positioned as mentioned above and as shown in Figure 1.
  • the rollers are then brought together and each is 2 mm above the support table 10 over and adjacent the waistband edge of a respective one of the back and front panels.
  • Roller 24 is positioned over the back panel while roller 26 is positioned over the front panel. Since the fabric is approximately 1 mm thick, the positioning of the rollers gives approximatley 1 mm clearance.
  • the ply separating arrangement comprises two co-operating devices, a separating device indicated at 36 and a ply turning device indicated at 38.
  • the separating device comprises two rollers 40, 42 arranged one above the other, which are perforated with suction holes and act as gripping means when in operation.
  • the roller 40 is driven in a clockwise direction and the roller 42 in an anti-clockwise direction by means of motors 44, 46 respectively.
  • Each roller 40, 42 is provided with a deflector blade 48, 50 and the whole separation device is mounted on a movable frame 52.
  • the ply turning device 38 comprises in addition to the plate means 34, two vacuum plate members having suction holes 54, the upper plate member 56 extending downwards at an oblique angle of approximatley 45° from the vicinity of the roller 40 and the lower plate member 58 extending vertically at a position below that of the lower roller 42.
  • Motors 60, 62 operate to pivot the plate members 56 and 58 in a manner to be described below.
  • the upper ply 12 is fed towards the suction roller 40 and the lower ply 14 towards the roller 42.
  • the deflector blades 50, 52 respectively, prevent the plies from curling around the rollers and cause them instead to peel away from the rollers so that the ply 18 travels across the upper face of plate 56 and the ply 20 falls vertically adjacent the plate 58.
  • Suction is then applied to the holes 54 so that the plates act to grip the plies in position thereagainst.
  • the ply separating arrangement is then removed from a co-operating position with respect to the turning device.
  • Motors 60 and 62 are then actuated to cause the plates 56 and 58 respectivley to pivot in the directions shown by arrows A and B in Figure 4 so that they move towards the positions shown in Figure 5.
  • the ply 18 is turned away from the ply 20 in a first, reverse, direction so that its edge projects beyond the plate 34 to the right as shown in that Figure.
  • Ply 20 is turned in a second, reverse, direction so that its edge similarly projects.
  • the panels 12 and 14 are thus still rolled about the rollers 24 and 26 and are trapped within the turned portions adjacent the seam S.
  • the next step therefore is to raise the rollers once again and cause them to pivot towards one another about their respective vertical axes through an obtuse angle in a plane passing through their longitudinal axes. This turns the garment portion inside out so that the panels 12 and 14 may be unrolled and released ready for the next stage in the manufacture of the briefs.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
EP88301461A 1986-09-04 1988-02-22 Fabrication de vêtements Withdrawn EP0329866A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB868621367A GB8621367D0 (en) 1986-09-04 1986-09-04 Garment manufacture

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0329866A1 true EP0329866A1 (fr) 1989-08-30

Family

ID=10603684

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP88301461A Withdrawn EP0329866A1 (fr) 1986-09-04 1988-02-22 Fabrication de vêtements

Country Status (2)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0329866A1 (fr)
GB (2) GB8621367D0 (fr)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108882765A (zh) * 2016-04-06 2018-11-23 山田菊夫 衣服制造装置及衣服制造方法
WO2024077436A1 (fr) * 2022-10-10 2024-04-18 Centre For Garment Production Limited Système à double manipulateur de manipulation de tissu avec effecteurs terminaux d'enroulement de tissu

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2633267B1 (fr) * 1988-06-27 1990-10-19 Rouleau Patrick Procede et dispositif pour superposer au moins deux couches souples, notamment un panneau de dos et un panneau de devant d'un article tel qu'un slip dans l'industrie textile et de la bonneterie
FR2640476A1 (fr) * 1988-12-19 1990-06-22 Miivar Procedes de fabrication automatique de produits en feuilles souples constitues de plusieurs pieces assemblees tels que des vetements ou sous-vetements ainsi que dispositifs pour la mise en oeuvre de ces procedes

Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2188301A (en) * 1935-08-17 1940-01-30 American Mach & Foundry Method and means for stitching neckties or similar articles
US3099970A (en) * 1960-06-28 1963-08-06 Vanity Fair Mills Inc Garment working apparatus
US3191557A (en) * 1962-12-26 1965-06-29 Moore Verda Marie Shirt collar and cuff forming machine
US3588087A (en) * 1967-02-28 1971-06-28 Ivanhoe Research Corp Methods and apparatus for automatically registering and combining fabric workpieces
US3765672A (en) * 1970-04-30 1973-10-16 Stahl Urban Co Automatic feeder for workpiece of fabric or the like
FR2471343A1 (fr) * 1979-12-14 1981-06-19 Valton Sa Machine pour le pliage sur elles-memes de pieces textiles et procede de pliage avec cette machine

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2188301A (en) * 1935-08-17 1940-01-30 American Mach & Foundry Method and means for stitching neckties or similar articles
US3099970A (en) * 1960-06-28 1963-08-06 Vanity Fair Mills Inc Garment working apparatus
US3191557A (en) * 1962-12-26 1965-06-29 Moore Verda Marie Shirt collar and cuff forming machine
US3588087A (en) * 1967-02-28 1971-06-28 Ivanhoe Research Corp Methods and apparatus for automatically registering and combining fabric workpieces
US3765672A (en) * 1970-04-30 1973-10-16 Stahl Urban Co Automatic feeder for workpiece of fabric or the like
FR2471343A1 (fr) * 1979-12-14 1981-06-19 Valton Sa Machine pour le pliage sur elles-memes de pieces textiles et procede de pliage avec cette machine

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108882765A (zh) * 2016-04-06 2018-11-23 山田菊夫 衣服制造装置及衣服制造方法
WO2024077436A1 (fr) * 2022-10-10 2024-04-18 Centre For Garment Production Limited Système à double manipulateur de manipulation de tissu avec effecteurs terminaux d'enroulement de tissu

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
GB2194725A (en) 1988-03-16
GB8720807D0 (en) 1987-10-14
GB8621367D0 (en) 1986-10-15

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