EP0321939A2 - Process for a curling treatment of hair wrapped on a body, for example human hair, and device for carrying out this process - Google Patents

Abstract

A process for a curling treatment of hair, for example human hair, rolled up on a body, wherein the deformations of the roller body 3,3',3",3"', resulting during a curling treatment of hair, are recorded and fed as measured deformation values to a measured value processing device 7 which compares at least one predetermined measured value characteristic, which corresponds to an optimum sequence of treatment, with the measured values and indicates conformity. Additionally, a device for carrying out the method is proposed (Fig. 2). <IMAGE>

Description

The invention relates to a method according to the preamble of claim 1 and an apparatus for performing the method.

A z. B. Permanent deformation of human hair is based on two processes:
a two-step chemical process, the reduction and oxidation of cystine bonds in the hair, and a physical process, the deformation.

Although both processes can run completely isolated from each other, they take place with permanent wave deformation e.g. T. simultaneously, e.g. T. also one after the other. This makes the permanent wave process a difficult process to analyze.

What is known about the chemical processes involved in perming is essentially derived from the use of thioglycolic acid or thioglycolate as a permanent waving agent. It is therefore known that a hair can be permanently deformed if part of the chemical crosslinking that is present in the hair is removed with a reducing agent and the hair, which is thus softer, is deformed on a roller. Are the cross-linking points in the hair by oxidation with z. B. hydrogen peroxide closed again, the hair retains the curler shape.

The causal relationship between the reducing power of a permanent wave solution and softening of the hair was identified from studies on the elongation behavior of straight hair in the presence of permanent waving agents. It was therefore assumed that the wavy result on the hair and the wavy stability of the curls produced correspond directly to the reducing power of the wavy solution.

As is known from the literature and general hairdressing practice, the problem arises, however, that the curl of individual head hair is very different due to the known variability of the hair. There are rough guidelines on how a good permanent wave result can be achieved through the choice of winder, preparation and exposure time; However, the hairdresser is still forced to roll up a so-called trial wrap several times during the permanent wave process in order to determine whether the exposure time has to be continued or stopped based on the shape of the hair. Since the determination of the exposure time is at the discretion of the hairdresser and, moreover, the corrugation is usually checked at intervals of 3 to 10 minutes, it often happens that the optimal time of deformation is not correctly recognized and is not exceeded or fallen short of. This results in poor deformation and damaged hair. In addition, this procedure requires a lot of attention from the hairdresser.

The problem has been known for a long time and has often been the subject of investigations. The resulting suggestions and methods for controlling the permanent wave process were based on the effort to detect the chemical processes in the hair.

According to JP-B-61-042 822, an electrical device is used with which the redox potential of the reducing agent, which decreases during the corrugation, is measured. It is wrongly assumed that these measurements correlate directly with the result of the wave on the hair. Measurement results of the type mentioned depend only on formulation parameters of the wave agent used and do not deal with the individual diversity of the treated hair. However, this is absolutely necessary in order to achieve a good wave result.

Rather, the applicant was able to determine that the wave result in a perm is primarily determined by the softening and hardening behavior of an individual hair, and not by the achievement of a certain degree of reduction in the hair. So there are hair qualities that need a relatively strong reduction in order to achieve a softening that is conducive to shaping, and other hair qualities that only need to be reduced slightly in order to maintain the same state of softening.

Devices that detect the chemical processes on the hair are less suitable for predicting the permanent wave result on the hair.

Based on the assumption that the measurement of physical hair parameters is more suitable for determining the wave result after a perm in advance, JP-B-62-29744 led to the proposal of a device which only measures the bending softening of a semicircular hair bundle. It allowed it in laboratory tests determine the softening power of permanent wave agents and relate them to each other. The different hair structure of each person and the associated differently strong reaction is not taken into account. The device cannot be used in hairdressing.

Recently, Wortmann and Souren (Extensional properties of human hair and permanent waving, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemist, No. 38 (March / April 1987), pp. 125-140) have also shown that softening measurements on straight hair in Laboratory tests did not allow an accurate prediction of the durability of curls that were deformed on a winder.

From US-A-2 496 206 a device is known which is said to indicate the optimal time of treatment of the permanent wavy hair. For this purpose, some hair that serves as a reference must be removed from the scalp hair and wound onto a measuring cell. The measuring cell serves as a pressure sensor and consists of thin-walled, elastic material and is part of a hydraulic system. The hydraulic fluid is electrically conductive and is manually brought up to a certain height depending on the quality of the hair. An overflow of the hydraulic fluid as a result of a contraction of the hair is determined electrically and signaled as the supposedly optimal time, the hair on the measuring cell being kept at the same temperature as the hair on the head. A major disadvantage of such a device is the high measurement inaccuracy, due to the comparison temperature on the measuring cell, which cannot be exactly maintained, due to various physical properties between the measuring cell and the bobbins on the hair on the head, and due to a manual level adjustment of the hydraulics liquid. Another disadvantage is the fact that the scalp hair used for the measurement must be separated from the head.

The object of the invention is to provide a method which does not have the disadvantages mentioned above and thereby enables an optimal hair shaping treatment process, so that this results in undamaged, wavy hair, in particular in the case of a permanent hair shaping treatment.

In addition, a device for performing the method is to be created.

This object is achieved in accordance with the characterizing part of claims 1 and 4. Further advantageous embodiments of the invention emerge from the respective subclaims.

According to the invention, the measurement method which is optimized for practical conditions is carried out on curved body on a body, since the waving process consists of a complex of sub-processes, such as chemical hair reduction, hair bending, hair softening, hair contraction and relaxation tion, composed. This allows the physical processes to be observed during a wave treatment on the hair under practical conditions.

The hair can in the usual manner, e.g. B. are attached by a rubber strap. At the beginning of the wave treatment, the wave agent, e.g. B. water, but preferably a reducing agent, e.g. B. thioglycolic acid, a salt or ester of thioglycolic acid, cysteine or sulfite-containing waving agent, applied to the hair. After reaching the optimal exposure time, which is between 5 and 60 minutes depending on the quality of the hair and permanent waving agent and the application temperature and which is indicated by the device, the hair is rinsed with water in the usual way (even aqueous preparations of conditioning agents can be used instead of water for Rinsing the corrugating agent can be used).

After briefly dabbing off excess water with a suction napkin or a towel, the hair is cleaned in the usual form with a fixative such as. B. an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide or potassium or sodium bromate oxidatively aftertreated and thus the corrugation process ended. The hair can be unwound from the curler for drying and styling, or can preferably be dried on the curler.

The procedure is designed in such a way that the processes, not as is the case e.g. B. in the permanent wave method, can be observed on straight, pre-stretched hair, but in the wound, bent state, as is the case in practice. Hair bundles of different weights and defined amounts of wave or reducing agent can also be used in this method, which was not possible with tensile testers in the previously known single-fiber measuring methods. In the latter method, labor-intensive hair diameter determinations also had to be carried out, which are now eliminated.

It was worked with large quantities of solvents that were completely unrealistic. All previous physical examinations of the corrugation process have only a very limited meaning.

The method has the advantage that a curl can be achieved even with the most varied hair qualities, the stability and durability of which can be predetermined using a wide variety of hair shaping treatment agents or else the degree of curling thereof. The quality of a perm can thus be directly related to the previously observed wave process on the same hair. This has not been possible until now because new hair material had to be used to establish correlations between the softening / hardening behavior of hair, its wave behavior and its degree of damage. Due to the large number of hair qualities, this led to extensive tests, which are now no longer necessary.

It is a so-called "index method", which as such can also be used directly in vivo on the hair of human subjects. Here it takes on the role of a reference winder (the usual winder has the same deformation properties), which is installed on the hair of the test subject / customer during the permanent wave process. However, it is not - as was previously the case - used to check the progress of the waving process, but rather indicates the maximum / optimal softening state of the hair via an (optical or acoustic) signal, in which case the waving process can then be terminated. This is preferably done by rinsing the hair in water, aqueous intermediate treatment agents or by applying the oxidizing fixative. The progress of the fixing process and the hardening process of the hair can also be indicated by the reference winder if necessary.

Depending on the expediency and taking into account the costs, a mechanical, optical, acoustic, electrical, magnetic, pneumatic or hydraulic deformation detection method can be used for displaying the deformation of the winding body in an optional combination.

The optimal course of treatment and thus the typical deformation characteristics are based - as could be determined by the invention - essentially on the swelling and contraction behavior and the flow area of the hair. The latter is a characteristic of individual hair quality. When the waving agent comes into contact with the hair, it begins to swell and contract slightly during the waving process. The swelling pressure exerts radial forces on the winding former. Since the hair is chemically reduced and thus softened at the same time, the radially acting forces reach a maximum in the time range in which the hair merges into the flow area. This is indicated by a decrease in the radial forces on the winding body. Deformation of the hair far beyond the flow area is advantageously avoided, since otherwise irreversible changes in the hair structure result. The typical deformation characteristic of the winding body is further characterized in that the hair swells again in the rinsing step connected to the wave treatment. This is indicated by increasing radial forces. The completion of the entire corrugation process by means of a final treatment with oxidizing fixative does not only effect the reverts putting the hair in its natural chemical state, but also causes swelling. This is detected on the winding body by a decrease in the radial forces. Since the durability of hair shaping, e.g. B. with a perm, depending on the degree of reoxidation and minimizing the residual swelling of the hair, the required fixing time can be displayed with the inventive method.

In a particularly advantageous manner, the method according to the invention can also be used for the automatic detection of a plurality of deformation characteristics, for which purpose deformation measurement values are formed via a deformation sensor, which are fed to a measurement value processing device which compares at least one predetermined measurement value characteristic with the measured values and indicates a match. As a result, one or more treatment times can be detected depending on the achievement of a predetermined measured value characteristic.

If such measured value characteristics are predefined in the measured value processing device that correspond to an optimal treatment process depending on the treatment agent, the hairdresser is automatically indicated or signaled when a treatment step (e.g. the treatment with corrugated agent) has been optimally completed. Depending on the specified measured value characteristic, the degree of treatment can also be predetermined if, for. B. a certain degree of undulation or undulation is to be achieved.

The method according to the invention is suitable for a wide variety of hair shaping processes, e.g. B. in permanent hair shaping or a water wave.

A device according to the characterizing part of claim 4 is provided for carrying out the method according to the invention.

The fact that the winding body reversibly stores the deformations, for. B. in the form of a compression spring, the physical processes in a hair shaping treatment can also be detected beyond the yield point. A equipped with a spring action bobbin z. B. realize that the body is designed like a hollow cylinder and is provided with at least one slot.

Depending on the deformation detection method (mechanical, optical, acoustic, electrical, magnetic, pneumatic or hydraulic), an appropriate sensor can be arranged in the winding body.

To hold the coiled hair, the winding body is provided with an appropriate device, for. B. in the form of axial projections for a rubber tab connection.

In order to achieve an optimal treatment process for the entire head hair, the hair curlers (in practice up to 50 pieces) are provided with the same deformation properties as the bobbin with one device to detect the deformation. As a result, the winding body has the function of a reference winder.

Advantageously, a measured value processing device is integrated in the winding body, preferably with an integrated energy supply. B. an integrated signal generator or a display, for. B. is created by an acoustic signal, a one-piece device for performing the method, which is particularly advantageously suitable as a reference winder for practice. Alternatively, the winding body can also be provided with a signal or measured value line to a separate display or measured value processing device.

By means of a transmitter integrated in the winding former, the measured values can advantageously be transmitted wirelessly, e.g. B. to a measured value processing device with an optical and acoustic display.

A piezo film can be provided as an inexpensive pressure sensor.

• Fig. 1 ein Flußdiagramm des Verfahrens,
• Fig. 2 eine prinzipielle Vorrichtung zur Durch­führung des Verfahrens
• Fig. 3 ein Verformungsdiagramm A/B
• Fig. 4,5 ein erstes Ausführungsbeispiel eines Wickelkörpers,
• Fig. 6 eine Dehnungsmeßstreifenschaltung als Verformungssensor,
• Fig. 7,8 ein zweites Ausführungsbeispiel eines Wickelkörpers,
• Fig. 9,10 ein drittes Ausführungsbeispiel eines Wickelkörpers,
• Fig. 11,12 einen Wickelkörper mit integrierter Batterie, Meßwertverarbeitungseinrich­tung und einem drahtlosen Sender.
• Fig. 13,14 einen Wickelkörper mit einer Piezo-Folie als Verformungssensor.

It shows:

• 1 is a flow chart of the method,
• Fig. 2 shows a basic device for performing the method
• 3 shows a deformation diagram A / B
• 4.5 a first embodiment of a winding body,
• 6 shows a strain gauge circuit as a deformation sensor,
• 7,8 shows a second embodiment of a winding body,
• 9, 10 a third embodiment of a winding body,
• 11, 12 a winding body with an integrated battery, measured value processing device and a wireless transmitter.
• 13, 14 a winding body with a piezo film as a deformation sensor.

The basic method is shown in FIG. 1.

After the hair is wound on a body 2 and mechanically fixed, the deformations of the body are measured in a first step after the hair shaping process has started (measurement).

In a second step, the deformation measured values are processed (save) and in a third step at least one predefined curve characteristic is compared with the measured values (measured value characteristic). If the characteristics match, the 4th step is a corresponding display (e.g. acoustically and / or optically).

By specifying such curve characteristics that correspond to an optimal treatment process, the optimal treatment times can be displayed, e.g. B. ending the actual hair shaping and the subsequent fixing process.

2 shows a basic device 1 for carrying out the method according to the invention. After the hair 2 is wound and fixed on a body 3, the deformations of the body 3 resulting during a hair shaping process are detected by a sensor 30.

The measured measured deformation values are fed via line 5 to a measured value processing device 7. By means of a device 8, a curve characteristic is input into the measured value processing device 7, which compares the entered characteristics with the measured values and visually and / or acoustically indicates a match of the characteristics by means of a display 6.

Fig. 3 shows a time course t of the deformation p of the body - z. B. according to a body 3, 3 ', 3˝, 3 ‴ according to Figures 4 to 12 - in a permanent hair styling process. The curve shape A (solid line) represents a treatment process with over-corrugation; the curve B (dashed line), however, an optimal treatment process, which results in a practically undamaged, permanently waved hair.

The curve A is described in more detail below. The stated fair values are only rough guidelines. After the hair 2 is wound on a body 3 (area C), a stationary deformation occurs on the body 3 (deformation p = K). The time specified for area C of 10 min. counts as the total time for winding further bobbins (approx. 40 pieces) for a complete hair treatment. At the time t₀ the hair shaping process begins with a waving agent. The body 3 is increasingly deformed in the region D. The maximum is then reached in area E. In the further course of the hair shaping process in area F, the body 3 is deformed in a decreasing manner. The end of the wave treatment at time t₁ is determined by rinsing the hair 2 with water. Depending on the treatment length t₁ - t₀ the wave quality of the hair 2 is determined. This time t 1 was previously determined by - usually several times - unwinding a particular hair curler and by manually checking the tension of the curl. This manual procedure is laborious complex and requires a lot of attention, since this check is a approach to a certain wave quality and the check itself is subjective. For this reason, the wave qualities can vary from case to case - also due to different hair properties. A too long wave treatment time t₁ - t₀bzw. Area D - E - F leads to overwaving and hair damage. During the water rinsing process in the area G, the body 3 is increasingly deformed up to a maximum point J. At time t₂, the fixation treatment begins in an area H. It becomes clear that the body deformation then increases slightly and then stagnates.

The curve shape B is identical in the areas CD. From time t₃ on there is a water rinse in area E which ends at time t₄. The fixation treatment then begins, which extends over an area F - G - H.

By the invention it was found that the optimal end of wave treatment t₃ is approximately in the range E. The characteristic here is that the curve shape B assumes a maximum value (turning point) in this area E. This measured value characteristic (eg first turning point or reaching a certain slope angle between two measuring times) is stored in a measured value processing device and is compared with the measured values. If the values match, this is indicated accordingly. Depending on the desired degree of corrugation, a corresponding measured value characteristic can be specified, in accordance with a targeted window-like measured value acquisition, in which a time frame can also be specified for the purpose of measurement reliability. At time t₃ the water rinse (area E) begins, which is ended at time t₄. It becomes clear that the resulting increase in body deformation (point L) is considerably less than that corresponding to curve A in point J. Immediately after the water rinse, the fixation process follows.

Surprisingly, it turns out that the curve now drops steadily and stagnates at point M from a point in time t₅. From this it is clear that from point L the deformation force decreases during the fixing process and from point M remains in equilibrium. As could be determined, the point in time t₅ with the curve characteristic at point M represents the optimal end of the fixing process. Accordingly, the corresponding curve characteristic can be specified such that the optimum lies in reaching a curve plateau (M). Now the water rinse can begin.

It is clear from the comparison of the two curves A, B that if the waving agent treatment according to curve A is too long, the hair is brought into a state in which it swells strongly when in contact with water, as a result of which the hair structure is permanently damaged. In the other case according to the curve B, the hair swells considerably less, which is why the hair structure remains practically undamaged.

A first embodiment of a winding body 3 is shown in FIGS. 4-6. The winding body 3 is designed like a hollow cylinder, for. B. made of aluminum, and has as a device 4 for detecting the winding body deformation two diametrically opposite slots 9 on one side, whereby a spring action of the body 3 is achieved. In the end region of the slots 9, a strain gauge R₁₋₄ is attached to the body 3 as a deformation sensor 30. As a result, the deformations starting from the coiled strand of hair 2 on the body 3 in the area of the measuring strip R 1 are amplified and can be detected precisely by means of a Wheatstone bridge 10 (FIG. 6).

An axial view of the winding body 3 on the part of the open slots 9 is shown in FIG. 5, the wound strand of hair 2 being only indicated.

A second embodiment of a winding body 3 'using a hydraulic measured value acquisition is shown in Fig. 7. The body 3 'is designed like a hollow cylinder and is provided with a continuous slot 9' which, like the slots 9 according to FIG. 7, serves for reversible deformations of the body 3 '. In the cavity of the bobbin 3 'serving as a sensor 31 liquid container 11 is arranged and formed such that the deformation of the body 3' emanating from the strand of hair a corresponding

Change the volume of the container 11 and be fed via a capillary 5 'to a measuring device 6A for forming electrical values. These values (curve window) are input into a measured value processing device 7 and compared with the predetermined curve characteristic of the device 8. The display 6 can be designed in such a way that instantaneous values or a time profile is also displayed. For a better view, the body 3 'is shown in Fig. 8 in an axial view. Instead of the hydraulic measured value acquisition, a corresponding pneumatic acquisition can be provided.

In a section AB according to FIG. 10, a winding body 3˝ is shown in FIG. 9 as a third exemplary embodiment, in which a magnet 18 and an electric coil 19 are arranged diametrically opposite in the interior as a sensor 32 such that changes in deformation of the body 3˝ occur affect as changes in inductance and are detected in terms of frequency via an electrical resonant circuit. A device 14 is used to hold the coiled hair by means of an elastic holding band 15, with axial projections 16, 17 being provided for fastening the band 15.

A bobbin 3 ‴ with an integrated power supply 23, measured value processing device 7 and a wireless transmitter 24 is shown in FIG. 11. The power supply or battery 23 is connected to the device 7 and the transmitter 24 by a line 25. Furthermore, the sensor 32 is connected to the device 7 via a line 26. The device 7 is designed in such a way that the deformation change measured values of the sensor 32 are also detected. To send a signal, the transmitter 24 is controlled via a line 27. An antenna line 28 is connected to the metal body 3 ‴ as an antenna. The magnet 18 and the coil 19 can be combined as one structural unit by means of a cylindrical sleeve part 19 A in order to simplify assembly. The sensor 32 and further elements 7, 23, 24 can be made liquid-tight by suitable sealing measures.

A side view of the winding body 3 körper is shown in FIG. 12.

A winding body 3 ‴ with a piezo film sensor 33 is shown in FIGS. 13 and 14. Instead of the film 33 arranged on the outside of the body 3 diese, it can also advantageously be glued to the inside of the body 3 ‴, as a result of which the film 33 is protected.

Claims (15)

1. A method of hair shaping treatment of hair wound on a body, e.g. Human hair, characterized in that the deformations of the winding body (3,3 ′, 3˝, 3 ‴) resulting during a hair shaping treatment are recorded and are fed as deformation measurement values to a measured value processing device (7) which has at least one predetermined measured value characteristic which corresponds to an optimal treatment process , compares with the measured values and indicates a match. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the curve shape of the end of the corrugating agent t3 is predetermined as the measured value characteristic. 3. The method according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the curve of the fixative treatment end t5 is specified as the measured value characteristic. 4. Device for carrying out the method for hair deformation treatment of hair wound on a body according to claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the winder body (3,3 ', 3˝, 3 ‴) with a device (4) for detecting the body deformation It is provided that the device (4) is connected to a measured value generating device (6A), that the measured value forming device (6A) is connected to a measured value processing device (7), that the measured value processing device (7) is provided with at least one measured value characteristic memory (7A), whereby the measured value processing device (7) compares the stored measured value characteristic with the measured values and indicates a match. 5. The device according to claim 4, characterized in that the winding body (3,3 ', 3˝, 3 ‴) is designed such that the deformations are reversibly stored. 6. The device according to claim 5, characterized in that an at least partially designed as a spring winding body (3,3 ', 3˝3 ‴) is provided. 7. The device according to claim 6, characterized in that the winding body (3,3 ', 3˝, 3 ‴) is designed like a hollow cylinder and at least one slot (9.9') is provided. 8. Device according to claims 4 and 7, characterized in that the winding body (3,3 ', 3˝, 3˝') is provided with a sensor detecting the deformation (30,31,32,33). 9. The device according to claim 8, characterized in that a sensor (30, 31,32,33) is provided for a mechanical, optical, acoustic, electrical, magnetic, pneumatic or hydraulic deformation detection method or in an optional combination. 10. Device according to claims 4 to 9, characterized in that the winding body (3,3 ', 3˝, 3 ‴) is provided with a device (14) for holding the coiled hair (2). 11. Device according to claims 4 to 10, characterized in that the winding body (3,3 ', 3˝, 3 ‴) has the same deformation properties as the other winding body for the hair curl. 12. Device according to claims 4 to 11, characterized in that in the winding body (3,3 ', 3˝, 3 ‴), the measured value processing device (7) is integrated. 13. The apparatus according to claim 12, characterized in that the winding body (3,3 ', 3˝, 3 ‴) is provided with an energy supply (23). 14. The apparatus according to claim 12 or / and 13, characterized in that the winding body (3,3 ', 3˝, 3 ‴) is provided with a transmitter (24) for wireless revision of the measured values. 15. The apparatus according to claim 8, characterized in that a piezo film is provided as the sensor (33).

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