DE3743849A1 - Method for detecting physical processes in a hair-shaping treatment of, e.g. human hair, and device for carrying out the method - Google Patents

Abstract

Method for detecting physical processes in a hair-shaping treatment of, e.g. human hair, the hair 2 being wound on a body 3, 3', 3'', 3''' and the deformation of the body resulting during a hair-shaping process being detected. A device for carrying out the method is also proposed (Fig. 4). <IMAGE>

Description

The invention relates to a method according to the preamble of claim 1 and a device for performing of the procedure.

A z. B. Permanent deformation of human hair is based on two processes:
a two-stage chemical process, the reduction and oxidation of cystine bonds in the hair, and a physical process, the deformation.

Although both processes are completely isolated from each other can, they take place with permanent wave deformation z. T. at the same time, e.g. T. also one after the other. Designed through this the perm process is difficult to analyze the process.

What about the chemical processes in the perm know, one essentially derives from the use of Thioglycolic acid or thioglycolate as permanent waving agent from. It is therefore known that a hair is then permanent deforms when part of the chemical cross-links tongue that is present in the hair with a reducing agent is lifted and so in a softer state staggered hair is deformed on a roller. Will the cross-linking points in the hair due to oxidation with z. B. hydrogen peroxide closed again, so keep the hair in the winder shape.  

From studies on the elongation behavior of stretched This was caused by hair in the presence of permanent wave products connection between reducing power of a Permanent wave solution and softening of the hair recognized. That's why it was assumed that the wavy result on the hair and the waviness of the curls produced directly corresponds to the reducing power of the corrugated solution.

As from literature and general hairdressing known, however, there is the problem that the well bar individual scalp hair due to the well-known varia hair is very different. It exists rough guidelines, such as the choice of winder, preparations choice and exposure time achieved a good permanent wave result can be; the hairdresser is still forced several times during the perm process Roll up the test roll to determine the shape of the Hair to determine whether the exposure time continues or must be canceled. Because the determination of the exposure time The hairdresser's discretion and the examination the corrugation usually takes place at intervals of 3 to 10 minutes, it often happens that the optimal time of deformation is not correctly recognized and undershot or exceeded. This gives you a bad deformation and a damaged hair. This procedure also requires from Hairdresser very much attention.

The problem has long been known and has been often the subject of investigations. The resultant proposals and procedures to control the Perm process was based on the effort to chemi to detect processes in the hair.

In JP 62 58 169 z. B. an electrical Device proposed that the permanent wave process the resulting hydrogen sulfide gas is measured. Point of time the largest gas evolution is said to be the end point of the Wellpro  make it clear. The device is similar TOEI SHOYI COMP. proceed like gas evolution indicated by the reaction with a lead acetate paper becomes.

According to JP 86 042-822-B, an electrical device is turned on with which the redox that decreases during the corrugation potential of the reducing agent is measured. It will wrongly assumed that this Correlate measurements directly with the wave result on the hair. Measurement results of the type mentioned depend only on form parameters of the corrugating agent used and go not on the individual diversity of the treated hair. However, this is imperative to a to achieve good wave result.

Rather, the applicant was able to establish that the Weller Result with a perm primarily from softening and hardening behavior of an individual hair will, and not from achieving a particular reduk degree of hair. So there are hair qualities who need a relatively large reduction to get one to achieve softening conducive to forming and other hair qualities, which are only slightly reduced need to be the same state of softening receive.

Devices that detect the chemical processes on the hair ren are to predict the permanent wave result on Hair less suitable.

Based on the assumption that the measurement physika lischer hair parameter is more suitable, the wave result to determine in advance after a perm in JP 62-29 744-B on the proposal of a device which only the bending softening of a semicircular curved Hair bundle measures. It allowed it in laboratory tests  determine the softening power of permanent wave agents and to relate them to each other. The difference hair structure of every human being and with it connected differently strong reaction will not considered. The device is not in the hairdressing practice applicable.

Recently, Wortmann and Souren (Exten regional properties of human hair and permanent waving, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemist, No. 38 (March / April 1987), pp. 125-140) showed that softening mes solutions to stretched hair in laboratory experiments Predicting the shelf life of curls allowed that were deformed on a winder.

The object of the invention is to provide a method with which the sum of the effects of physical processes can be measured during a hair shaping treatment.

The method is also intended to provide optimal treatment enable process, so that in particular from a permanent hair shaping treatment as un as possible damaged, wavy hair results.

In addition, a device for performing the procedure rens can be created.

This task is solved according to the characterizing part of claims 1 and 6. Further advantageous embodiments the invention result from the respective subclaims forth.

The measuring procedure relevant for the practical conditions Ren is according to the invention on the curved hair on a Body because the wave process is made up of a Complex of sub-processes, such as chemical hair reduction, Hair bending, hair softening, hair contraction and relaxa  tion, composed. This allows the physical Operations during a wave treatment on the hair under practice conditions are observed.

The hair can in the usual manner, e.g. B. by a rubber be attached to the strap. At the beginning of the wave treatment the waving agent, e.g. B. water, but preferably a Reducing agents, e.g. B. thioglycolic acid, a salt or Esters of thioglycolic acid, cysteine or sulfite-containing Waving agent applied to the hair. After reaching the optimal exposure time depending on the hair quality and permanent wave means and the application temperature between 5 to 60 min. And indicated by the device the hair in the usual way with water rinsed (also aqueous preparations of conditioning agents can instead of water to rinse off the corrugating agent be used).

After briefly dabbing off excess water with a A napkin or towel will leave the hair in the usual form with a fixative such. B. one aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide or potassium or Sodium bromate treated oxidatively and thus the Wellvor course finished. The hair can be used for drying and hairstyles design can be handled by the winder, or preferably dried on the winder.

The procedure is designed in such a way that the processes, not like usual B. usual in the permanent wave method, can be observed on straight, stretched hair, but in the wound, bent state like it is the case in practice. You can use this procedure also hair bundles of different weights and defined Amounts of corrugating agent or reducing agent are used, what with the previously known single fiber measuring method on tensile testers was not possible. With the latter Procedures also required labor-intensive hair diameters determinations are carried out, which are now omitted.  

It was made with large, completely unrealistic solvents worked a lot. All previous physical sub Searches for the corrugation process are very limited Meaningfulness.

The method also has the advantage that, after observing the permanent waving process on the treated hair - a wide variety of hair qualities - a curl can be achieved, the stability and durability of which can be predetermined using a wide variety of hair shaping treatment agents or the degree of curl. The quality of a perm can thus be directly related to the previously observed wave process on the same hair. This has not been possible until now because new hair material had to be used to establish correlations between the softening / hardening behavior of hair, its wave behavior and its degree of damage. Due to the large number of hair qualities, this led to extensive tests that are now no longer necessary.

It is therefore a so-called "index procedure", the as such also directly in vivo on human hair subjects can be used. Here takes over it is the task of a reference winder (the usual winder have the same deformation properties), which during the permanent wave process on the hair of the test subject / customer in is installed. However, it will not - as was previously the case - to check the progress of the corrugation process processed, but shows a (optical or aku static) signal the maximum / optimal state of softening of the hair by then stopping the waving process can be done. This is preferably done by rinsing of the hair in water, aqueous intermediate treatment agents or by applying the oxidizing fixative. The progress of the fixing process and hardening process of the hair can also if necessary the reference winder are displayed.  

Depending on the expediency and taking into account the May cost for displaying the deformation of the wrap body in optional combination a mechanical, optical, acoustic, electrical, magnetic, pneumatic or hydraulic deformation detection procedures are used.

By displaying the winding over time Body deformation can vary depending on the treatment used a typical deformation characteristic was observed and interpreted for the further course of treatment will.

The optimal course of treatment and thus the typical one Deformation characteristic is based - as by the invention could be determined - essentially on the Swelling and contraction behavior as well as the flow area of the hair. The latter is a characteristic of the individual hair quality. When the Hair waving starts with the waving process to swell and to contract slightly. By the swelling pressure becomes radial forces on the reel body exercised. Because the hair is chemical at the same time reduced and thus softened, they reach radially acting forces a maximum in the time range, where the hair goes into the flow area. This is reduced by a decrease in the radial forces on the Coil form displayed. Advantageously, one Deformation of the hair far beyond the flow area avoided, as otherwise irreversible changes of the hair structure. The typical verfor mung characteristics of the winding body is still characterized in that the hair in that of the wave means treatment swells again. This is indicated by increasing radial forces. The completion of the entire corrugation process a final treatment with oxidizing fixative not only causes the return  putting the hair in its natural chemical Condition, but also causes swelling. This is on the winding body by a decrease in the radial forces detected. Because the durability of a hair shaping, e.g. B. in a perm, the degree of reoxidation and dependent on minimizing the residual swelling of the hair is with the method according to the invention required fixation time are displayed.

In a particularly advantageous manner, the invention Method for the automatic detection of one or more Deformation characteristics are used for what Deformation measured values formed via a deformation sensor be that a measured value processing device are performed, the at least one predetermined measured value compares the characteristic with the measured values and indicates a match. This can be a or several treatment times depending on the achievement a predetermined measured value characteristic is detected will.

It is particularly advantageous in practice - for the hairdresser performing the hair treatment in the hairdressing salon - if such measured value characteristics are specified in the measured value processing device that correspond to an optimal treatment process depending on the treatment agent. As a result, the hairdresser is automatically shown or signaled when a treatment step (e.g. the treatment with corrugated agent) has been optimally completed. Depending on the specified measured value characteristic, the degree of treatment can also be predetermined if, for. B. a certain degree of over or under corrugation is to be achieved.

The inventive method is suitable for various hair shaping processes, e.g. B. at permanent hair shaping or a water wave.

To carry out the method according to the invention a device is provided which consists of a deformable There is a winding body and a device for detection the winding body deformation. The so grasped Deformation values can be processed accordingly and be interpreted.

The fact that the winding body reversible the deformations stores, e.g. B. in the form of a compression spring, the physical processes in a hair shaping treatment can also be detected beyond the yield point. A equipped with a spring effect winding body can z. B. realize that the body is designed like a hollow cylinder and with at least is provided with a slot.

Depending on the deformation detection method (mechanical, optical, acoustic, electrical, magnetic, pneumatic or hydraulic) can be a corresponding in the winding body Sensor are arranged.

The wrap is for holding the coiled hair body with a corresponding device, e.g. B. in the form of axial projections for a rubber tab connection.

To ensure an optimal course of treatment for the whole To achieve head hair, the hair curlers (in the Practice up to 50 pieces) with the same deformation properties shaft like the winding body with a device  to detect the deformation. This gives the wrap body the function of a reference winder.

A measured value is advantageously in the winding body integrated processing device, preferably with an integrated power supply, which means e.g. B. an integrated signal generator or a display, e.g. B. by an acoustic signal, a one-piece Device created for performing the method which is particularly advantageous as a reference winder is suitable for practice. Alternatively, the wrap body also with a signal or measured value line a separate display or measured value processing direction.

With a transmitter integrated in the winding body the measured values are advantageously transmitted wirelessly, e.g. B. to a measured value processing device with an optical and acoustic display.

It shows:

Fig. 1 ... 3 are flow charts of the method,

Fig. 4 shows a basic device for performing the method

Fig. 5 is a development of the device,

Fig. 6 is a deformation diagram of A / B

Fig. 7, 8, a first embodiment of a winding body,

Fig. 9 is a strain gauge circuit as a deformation sensor,

Fig. 10, 11, a second embodiment of a winding body,

Fig. 12, 13, a third embodiment of a winding body,

Fig. 14 is a winding body with an integrated battery, Meßwertververarbeitungeinrich device and a wireless transmitter.

The basic method is shown in FIG. 1.

1st step: Wrap hair on a body.

2nd step: Fix hair mechanically.

Step 3: Start the hair shaping process.

4th step: Detect body deformations.

In a further development of the method according to FIG. 2, the detected deformations (step 4) of the body are displayed as instantaneous values or as a time course as step 5.

Another method is shown in FIG. 3, wherein after the 4th step, the deformation measurement values are processed in a 5th step and in a 6th step at least one predetermined measurement characteristic is compared with the measured values. In a 7th step, a match of the characteristics is displayed.

By specifying such measured value characteristics that correspond to an optimal course of treatment the optimal times of treatment are displayed, e.g. B. ending the actual hair shaping and the subsequent fixing process.

In FIG. 4 a principal device 1 is shown for carrying out the inventive method. After the hair 2 is wound and fixed on a body 3 , the deformations of the body 3 resulting during a hair shaping process are detected by a sensor 30 . The detected deformation values can e.g. B. via a line 5 of a display 6 , which shows instantaneous values or the time course, are supplied.

A further development of the device 1 is shown in FIG. 5. Here, the detected Verformungsmeß values are fed via line 5 a Meßwertververarbeitungein direction 7 . By means of a device 8 , measured value characteristics are entered into the measured value processing device 7 , which compares the entered characteristics with the measured values and indicates a match of the characteristics by means of a display 6 optically and / or acoustically.

Fig. 6 shows a time course t of the deformation p of the body 3 - z. B. according to a body 3 , 3 ', 3 ''according to FIGS. 7 to 14 - in a permanent hair styling process. The curve shape A (solid line) represents a treatment process with over corrugation; the curve B (dashed line), however, an optimal treatment process, which results in a practically undamaged, permanently waved hair.

The curve A is described in more detail below. The stated fair values are only rough guidelines. After the hair 2 is wound onto a body 3 (area C ), a stationary deformation occurs on the body 3 (deformation p = K ). The time specified for area C of 10 min. counts as the total time for winding further bobbins (approx. 40 pieces) for a complete hair treatment. At time t _o , the hair shaping process begins with a waving agent. The body 3 is increasingly deformed in the region D. The maximum is then reached in area E. In the further course of the hair shaping process in area F , the body 3 is deformed in a decreasing manner. The end of the wave treatment at time t ₁ is determined by rinsing the hair 2 with water. Depending on the treatment length t ₁ - t _o , the wave quality of the hair 2 is determined. This point in time t ₁ has previously been determined by - usually several times - unwinding a specific hair curler and by manually checking the tension of the curl. This manual procedure is labor-intensive and requires a lot of attention, since this check is a approach to a certain wave quality and the check itself is subjective. For this reason, the corrugated qualities can from case to case - turn out differently - also because of different hair texture. A too long wave treatment time t ₁ - t _o or range D - E - F leads to overwaving and hair damage. During the water rinsing process in the area G , the body 3 is increasingly deformed up to a maximum point J. At time t ₂ , the fixing treatment begins in an area H. It becomes clear that the body deformation then increases slightly and then stagnates.

The curve B is in the areas C - D identical. From time t ₃ onwards, a water rinse takes place in area E , which ends at time t ₄ . The fixation treatment then begins, which extends over an area F - G - H.

The invention has established that the optimal end of waving treatment time t _{3 is} approximately in the range E. The characteristic here is that the curve shape B assumes a maximum value (turning point) in this area E. This measured value characteristic (eg first turning point or reaching a certain slope angle between two measuring times) is stored in a measured value processing device and is compared with the measured values. If the values match, this is indicated accordingly. Depending on the desired degree of corrugation, a corresponding measured value characteristic can be specified, in accordance with a targeted window-like measurement value acquisition, in which a time frame can also be specified for the purpose of measurement reliability. Water flushing (area E ) begins at time t _{3 and} ends at time t ₄ . It becomes clear that the body deformation increase (point L ) that occurs is considerably less than that corresponding to curve A in point J. The fixing process follows immediately after the water rinse.

Surprisingly, it turns out that the curve now drops steadily and stagnates at point M from a point in time t ₅ . From this it is clear that from point L during the fixing process the deformation force decreases and from point M remains in equilibrium. As could be determined, the time t ₅ with the curve characteristic at point M represents the optimal fixing process end. Accordingly, the corresponding curve characteristic can be specified so that the optimum lies in reaching a curve plateau ( M ). The water rinse can now begin.

It is clear from the comparison of the two curves A , B that if the waving agent treatment according to curve A is too long, the hair is brought into a state in which it swells strongly when in contact with water, as a result of which the hair structure is permanently damaged. In the other case according to the curve B , the hair swells considerably less, which is why the hair structure remains practically undamaged.

A first embodiment of a winding body 3 is shown in FIG. 7. The winding body 3 is designed like a hollow cylinder, for. B. made of aluminum, and as a device 4 for detecting the winding body deformation on two diametrically opposed slots 9 , whereby a spring action of the body 3 is achieved. In the end region of the slots 9 , a strain resistance measuring strip R _{1-4 is} attached to the body 3 as the deformation sensor 30 . As a result, the deformations exerted on the body 3 in the area of the measuring strip R _1-4 by the wound hair strand 2 are amplified and can be precisely detected by means of a Wheatstone bridge 10 ( FIG. 9).

An axial view of the winding body 3 on the part of the open slots 9 is shown in FIG. 8, the wound hair strand 2 being only indicated.

A second embodiment of a winding body 3 'using a hydraulic measured value acquisition is shown in Fig. 10. The body 3 'is hollow cylindrical and is provided with a continuous slot 9 ' which, like the slots 9 according to FIG. 7, serves for reversible deformations of the body 3 '. In the cavity of the winding body 3 'serving as a sensor 31 liquid container 11 is arranged and designed such that the deformation of the body 3 ' from the hair strand cause a corresponding change in volume of the container 11 and supplied via a capillary 5 'a display 6 ' will. The display 6 'can be designed so that instantaneous values or a time course is displayed. However, the values can also be fed to a measurement processing device 7 .

For a better view, the body 3 'is shown in FIG. 11 in an axial view. Instead of the hydraulic measured value acquisition, a corresponding pneumatic acquisition can be provided.

In a section AB according to FIG. 13, as a third embodiment, a winding body 3 '' is shown in FIG. 12, in which diametrically opposed magnet 18 and an electric coil 19 are arranged as a sensor 32 darart that deformation changes of the body 3 '' act as changes in inductance and be detected moderately frequency via an electrical resonant circuit. An apparatus 14 serves to hold the wound hair by means of an elastic holding band 15, wherein axial for fastening the belt 15 projections 16 are provided 17th

A winding body 3 '''with an integrated power supply 23 , measured value processing device 7 and a wireless transmitter 24 shows Fig. 14. The power supply or battery 23 is connected to the device 7 and the transmitter 24 by a line 25 . Furthermore, the sensor 33 is connected to the device 7 via a line 26 . The device 7 is designed in such a way that the deformation change measured values of the sensor 33 are also detected. To send a signal, the transmitter 24 is controlled via a line 27 . An antenna line 28 is connected to the metal body 3 '''as an antenna. The magnet 18 and the coil 19 can be combined as one unit by means of a cylindrical sleeve part 19 A for the purpose of simplifying assembly. By suitable sealing measures, the sensor 33 and further elements 7 , 23 , 24 can be made liquid-tight.

Reference number list

1 device
2 hair
3, 3 ′, 3 ″, 3 ″ ′ body
4 establishment
5, 5 ' line
6, 6 ′ display
7 measured value processing device
8 Measured value characteristic input device
9, 9 ′ slot
10 Wheatstone Bridge
11 liquid container
12th
13 coil
14 Setup
15 tether
16 head start
17 head start
18 magnet
19 electro coil
20th
23 Energy supply
24 transmitters
25, 26, 27 line
30, 31, 32 deformation sensor

Claims (16)

1. Method for detecting physical processes in a hair shaping treatment, for. B. of human hair, characterized in that the hair ( 2 ) on a body ( 3 , 3 ', 3 '', 3 ''') is wound and the resulting deformations of the body during a hair deformation process ( 3 , 3 ', 3rd '', 3 ''' ) are detected. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized ge indicates that the deformation is caused by a mechanical, optical, acoustic, electrical, magnetic, pneumatic or hydraulic method or recorded in an optional combination. 3. The method according to claims 1 and 2, characterized characterized that the deformation eyes worth seeing or the time course of the deformation is shown. 4. The method according to claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the detected deformation measurement values are fed to a measured value processing device ( 7 ) which compares at least one predetermined measured value characteristic with the measured values and indicates a match. 5. The method according to claim 4, characterized ge indicates that such measured value character statistics are given to ensure optimal treatment correspond to the schedule. 6. Apparatus for performing the method for detecting physical processes in a hair treatment treatment according to claims 1 to 5, characterized by a deformable winding body ( 3 , 3 ', 3 '') with a device ( 4 ) for detecting sen the winding body deformation . 7. The device according to claim 6, characterized in that the winding body ( 3 , 3 ', 3 '') is designed such that the deformations are stored rever sibel. 8. The device according to claim 7, characterized in that an at least partially designed as a spring winding body ( 3 , 3 ', 3 '') is seen easily. 9. The device according to claim 8, characterized in that the winding body ( 3 , 3 ', 3 '') is designed like a hollow cylinder and is provided with at least one slot ( 9 , 9 '). 10. The device according to claims 6 to 9, characterized in that the winding body ( 3 , 3 ', 3 '') is provided with a deformation sensor ( 30 , 31 , 32 ). 11. The device according to claim 10, characterized in that a sensor ( 30 , 31 , 32 , 33 ) is provided for a mechanical, optical, acoustic, elec trical, magnetic, pneumatic or hydraulic deformation detection method or in an optional combination nation. 12. Device according to claims 6 to 11, characterized in that the winding body ( 3 , 3 ', 3 '') is provided with a device ( 14 ) for holding the coiled hair ( 2 ). 13. Device according to claims 6 to 12, characterized in that the winding body ( 3 , 3 ', 3 '') has the same deformation properties as the other winding body for the hair curl. 14. Device according to claims 6 to 13, characterized in that in the winding body ( 3 , 3 ', 3 '') a Meßwertververarbeitungein direction ( 7 ) is integrated. 15. The apparatus according to claim 14, characterized in that the winding body ( 3 , 3 ', 3 '') is provided with an energy supply ( 23 ). 16. The apparatus of claim 14 or / and 15, characterized in that the Wic kelkörper ( 3 , 3 ', 3 '') is provided with a transmitter ( 24 ) for wireless transmission of the measured values.