JPS6336469B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a method for evaluating wave efficiency, which serves as a reference for setting treatment conditions when applying permanent set to human hair. Currently, when applying a permanent set to the hair, the selection of permanent wave lotion (hereinafter referred to as wave lotion), the thickness of the rod (round rod), the process time, etc. are all determined by the hairdresser's intuition based on their experience. I'm relying on you. Problems that should originally be determined accurately by taking into account the hair quality and the customer's requests are often in this situation, which often leads to customer dissatisfaction, and sometimes even a slight misunderstanding can lead to major trouble. There are also more developed cases. This is because there is no method or device for easily measuring and determining hair waving efficiency.
There are many different ways to judge hair, but what is needed here is to distinguish between hair types that are more susceptible to permanent set and hair types that are less likely to undergo permanent set. In other words, actually performing a permanent set,
Just look at its wave efficiency. By the way, various methods have been attempted to measure wave efficiency mainly for the purpose of evaluating the effectiveness of wave lotion. Basically, you can curl the hair into a rod, remove the rod from the hair after permanent set treatment, and examine the shape of the hair, but this creates a three-dimensional state of the waves, and it is difficult to quantify and evaluate accurately. It is quite difficult. Therefore, Kirby ⁽¹⁾ (Donald H. Kirby) made the hair into a zigzag shape and gave it a permanent set.
The wave efficiency is evaluated from the length of the obtained wave having a planar spread. On the other hand, according to Kondo ⁽²⁾ , John W. Haefele ⁽³⁾ involves rolling hair around a rod (glass rod), applying permanent set, cutting the hair on the rod, making a ring, and measuring the diameter. The wave efficiency is evaluated. Currently, the Kilby method (improved method ⁽⁴⁾ ) is generally used, but both the Kilby method and the Halfwell method have poor reproducibility and require skill and a large number of steps to increase reliability. The disadvantage is that measurements must be repeated. In other words, these methods are not very suitable for determining hair waving efficiency in a short period of time. As a result of extensive research into this problem, the inventor of the present invention has developed a technique that requires no skill and is reproducible by twisting the hair, applying permanent set, and evaluating the wave efficiency from the twist fixation rate after the treatment. We found that high results can be obtained. It has also been found that by using this method, the hair quality can be easily determined and, based on this, the optimum conditions for permanent set can be easily set.
The present invention has been made based on the above findings.
The method of the present invention will be described below with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 shows an example of a measuring instrument used in the present invention. Hair gripping parts 3 and 4 are provided on the support 1, and one of the gripping parts 4 is made detachable from the fixing part 6,
A pointer 5 from which the rotation speed and displacement angle can be read is attached to this. The grip part 4 can be embedded in the fixing part 6 and fixed thereto in a detachable manner. 6 can freely move in the vertical direction of the support and is fixed with screws 7. 2 is test hair. Next, the experimental method will be described. One end of one test hair is attached to the grip part 3, 4 is rotated, a predetermined twist is applied to the hair, and then 4 is embedded in 6 and fixed. After applying the permanent set in this state, the hair 4 was removed and the test hair 2 was immersed in water together with the device. Since the twist that was not permanently set during immersion returns, by reading the number of returns, it is possible to calculate the fixation rate with respect to the initially applied twist. The wave efficiency by this method is as follows: wave efficiency=initial number of twists (n ₁ )−number of returns after treatment (n ₂ )/initial number of twists (n ₁ )×100 (%). Next, test examples of the present invention will be shown to clarify the features of this method. Test Example Comparison of wave efficiency by the method of the present invention and that by the Half-El method The test hair was 0.5% sodium lauryl sulfate and 30% sodium lauryl sulfate.
A sample from the same person (female, 32 years old, thickness 60-70μ) that had been washed with a % methanol aqueous solution was used. This is called hair A. For the wave lotion, aqueous solutions of various concentrations of thioglycolic acid adjusted to a constant pH of 9.2 (25° C.) with aqueous ammonia were used as the first liquid, and a 5% aqueous sodium bromate solution was used as the second liquid. The treatment consisted of a 10-minute treatment with the first solution, followed by a 1-minute rinse with running water, a 10-minute treatment with the second solution, and a 1-minute rinse with water. The processing temperature is constant at 30°C (in the following examples, unless otherwise specified, the processing temperature is 30°C). In the case of the method of the present invention, the length between both gripping parts is approximately 100 mm.
Set one strand of hair and apply 100
Measurements were made by twisting the tube twice. In the case of the half-well method, for one hair of approximately 200 mm in length (according to the original report and Kondo et al., it is performed on several hairs at the same time, but doing so will increase the variation in the measured values). The treatment was performed by applying a constant load of about 2 g and turning the hair so that they did not overlap. Figure 2 shows the results. In figure a, 1 is the result of immersing the first liquid and the second liquid for 10 minutes each, and 2 is the result of immersing for 1 minute and 30 seconds each, followed by 8 minutes and 30 seconds in an empty sealed container. This is the result of leaving it alone. The measurements were performed on four hairs under each condition (the number of hairs measured was four in the examples shown below as well). Figure 2b shows the results obtained by the half-well method, which was carried out by dipping for 10 minutes at a time. △ mark is rod outer diameter 6
mm, ▽ is 8 mm, and □ is 10 mm. Note that the range of measured values is shown only for 6 mm. Measurements were performed twice for each rod. In other words, the number of rings is 10 or more. In the figure, when we compare 1 of a and b, 1 of a shows a considerably higher value even though the same 10 minute immersion treatment is performed. The reason for this is thought to be that in the half-well method, the part of the hair that is in contact with the rod does not respond well to the wave lotion. However, it can be seen that even with the method of the present invention, when processing is performed under conditions such as a.2, the results of the Half-El method can be approximately expressed.
Furthermore, the measured values for 2 of a are more consistent than for b.
This can be understood by the following explanation. In other words, if you twist a taut hair once and then bring the ends closer together, a ring is created. Adding 100 twists is the same as making 100 loops. In other words, this method can quickly obtain data with the same degree of reliability as when measuring 100 rings using the half-well method and calculating the average value in a single measurement. It has the advantage of Test example Effect of length of test hair and number of twists on waving efficiency 100 times, 75 times, 50 times, 25 times,
The wave efficiency was measured when 5 twists were applied, and when 50 mm and 25 twists were applied to hair with a length of 50 mm, and the effects of differences in the length of the test hair and the number of twists were investigated. The hair used was A.
The first liquid of wave lotion is ammonia water to adjust the pH.
A 6% aqueous thioglycolic acid solution with a concentration of 9.2 was used, and a 5% aqueous sodium bromate solution was used as the second solution. Each treatment was performed by immersing the sample for 1 minute and 30 seconds, followed by leaving it in an empty closed container for 8 minutes and 30 seconds. The results obtained are shown in Table 1. As is clear from the table, within the range of this experiment, the obtained wave efficiencies show almost the same values. In other words, it can be seen that the length of the test hair is not limited. However, as the number of twists decreases, the fluctuations in measured values tend to increase somewhat. In addition, in the examples shown below, the measurement of wave efficiency by the method of the present invention was performed with a length of 100 mm.
This is done by adding 100 twists.

[Table] Test Example Effect of Processing Time and Second Liquid Figure 3 shows the results of investigating the effect of processing time on wave efficiency. The first part of the wave lotion used here was a 4% aqueous thioglycolic acid solution adjusted to pH 9.2 with aqueous ammonia, and the second part was a 5% thioglycolic acid solution.
% sodium bromate aqueous solution. The treatment was by dipping, and A was used as the test hair. In Fig. 3, the curve 1 indicates the first liquid treatment time 10
These are the results when the second liquid processing time was changed as shown on the horizontal axis of the figure, with the second liquid processing time being constant. Here, the one with 0 minutes of second liquid treatment is 2 minutes after 10 minutes of first liquid treatment.
It was simply washed with running water for a minute. As is clear from the figure, even if the water is washed alone without the second liquid treatment, each
It can be seen that approximately 60% of the fixation (oxidation) is achieved when the treatment is carried out in minutes. However, in this case, the twist that has not been permanently set returns rather slowly, so that the measurement takes a lot of time. Therefore, when measuring wave efficiency using this method, it is preferable to perform the second liquid treatment for a predetermined time even if it is for a short time. Curve 2 in the figure is the result when both the first liquid treatment and the second liquid treatment are performed for the time indicated on the horizontal axis. As is clear from the figure, the shorter the processing time, the lower the wave efficiency, so the processing time is preferably at least 5 minutes or more. Test Example Effect of Processing Temperature Figure 4 shows the results of an investigation into the effect of processing temperature on wave efficiency. Curve 1 in the figure shows that the concentration of thioglycolic acid in the wave lotion is 6%, curve 2 is 4%, and in both cases the pH is
9.2 (25℃) constant. A 5% aqueous sodium bromate solution was used as the second liquid. The treatments were performed by immersing the sample for 1 minute and 30 seconds and leaving it standing in an empty airtight container for 8 minutes and 30 seconds. As is clear from the figure, the wave efficiency is greatly affected by the processing temperature. Comparative tests should therefore be conducted under constant temperature conditions. Test Example Evaluation of wave efficiency of permanent set of collected hair for wave setting The following four types of hair were used here. Hair A Female 32 years old Thickness 60-70μ B Hair from A treated with 6% hydrogen peroxide (ammonium alkaline) with pH 10.0 at 30℃ for 1 hour C Male 25 years old Thickness 65-70μ D Male 34 years old Table 2 shows the results of measuring wave efficiency under different conditions for hair with a thickness of 80 to 100 microns or more. The first part of the wave lotion used was a 6% aqueous thioglycolic acid solution adjusted to pH 9.2 with aqueous ammonia, and the second part was a 6% thioglycolic acid aqueous solution adjusted to pH 9.2 with ammonia water.
% sodium bromate aqueous solution.

[Table] Processing conditions: Both the first and second liquids of wave lotion
Immerse for 10 minutes each Immerse both the 1st and 2nd liquids for 1 minute and 30 seconds, then leave to stand in an empty airtight container for 8 minutes and 30 seconds Similarly, immerse for 1 minute and leave for 9 minutes Judgment: ++: Permanent is very easy to change +: Permanent is easy to change ±: Permanent is normal -: Permanent is difficult to change - -: Permanent is very difficult to change As shown in the table, Waveset processing
The results obtained using the 10-minute immersion method do not show much of a difference in wave efficiency, but the difference becomes noticeable depending on the processing conditions. This is because immersion for 10 minutes at a time results in a large excess of the bath ratio. In addition, the temperature may rise somewhat due to the heat of reaction during the first liquid treatment, and there is also a method of perming the hair by heating it from the beginning with a low concentration wave lotion. In any case, it is important to devise processing conditions that are as close as possible to the actual conditions. In addition, if it is difficult to control the treatment temperature, it is easier to evaluate whether or not the hair is easily permed by predetermining standard hair and performing the treatments simultaneously. Test Example Correlation between evaluation results of waving efficiency of permanent set of hair collected by the method of the present invention and actual treatment at a beauty salon FIG. 3 is a diagram showing the correlation with the hair quality determined by evaluating the wave efficiency of the permanent set of the collected hair. In the figure, the X-axis shows the wave efficiency measured using the same method as the treatment conditions in Table 2, and the Y-axis shows the degree of application when a beautician applied permanent set with a commercially available wave lotion. The average value of the five-level evaluation is shown. As is clear from the figure, it was found that there is a fairly high correlation between the hair quality determined by this method and the degree of hair coverage felt when the permanent set was actually performed. As described above, the present invention is based on the above-mentioned tests.
In advance, collect the hair that is to be permanently set, twist it and secure both ends.
After applying a permanent set under certain conditions, we calculated the twist fixation rate from the recovery when one end of the hair was released in water, measured the wave efficiency, and compared this with that of a pre-selected standard hair. Permanent set conditions can be set using simple equipment,
This allows settings to be made with good reproducibility through simple operations. References (1) Kirby, DH, Drug Cosmet.Ind.80, 314
(1957) (2) Kondo, TG Report No. 35 (1959) (3) Haefele, JW, USPatent 2615828 (4) Ichikawa, et al., Sanitary Laboratory Report 81, 54 (1963)

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 shows one of the apparatuses for carrying out the method of the present invention.
In the diagram showing an example, 1 is a support, 2 is a test hair,
3 and 4 are hair gripping parts, 5 is a pointer, 6 is a fixing part, 7
is a screw. Figure 2a is a graph showing the relationship between the concentration of the first solution (thioglycolic acid) and wave efficiency according to the method of the present invention, where curve 1 is treated for 10 minutes each for the first solution and the second solution, and curve 2 is treated for 1 minute 30 minutes each. This shows the results of immersion for 2 seconds and standing for 8 minutes and 30 seconds. Figure 2b is a graph showing a similar relationship based on the half-well method, where the △ mark is 6 mm rod outer diameter, and the ▽ mark is 8 mm rod outer diameter.
mm and □ mark indicate the case of 10 mm. Figure 3 is a graph showing the relationship between processing time and wave efficiency, where curve 1 shows the first liquid processing time of 10 minutes;
When the second liquid processing time is plotted on the horizontal axis, curve 2 shows the case where the first and second liquid processing times are plotted on the horizontal axis. Figure 4 is a graph showing the relationship between processing temperature and wave efficiency, where curve 1 shows a thioglycolic acid concentration of 6%;
Curve 2 shows the same concentration of 4%. FIG. 5 is a diagram showing the correlation between the evaluation results of the wave efficiency of the permanent set of hair collected by the method of the present invention and the actual case, where the X axis is the method of the present invention and the Y axis is the wave efficiency of the actual permanent set. Shows the measurement results.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. After fixing one end of the collected hair and giving it an initial number of twists (n ₁ ), fixing both ends of the hair, treating it with a permanent wave lotion, and then submerging it in water. A method for evaluating the wave efficiency of a permanent set of collected hair, which comprises releasing one end of the hair, measuring the number of hairs (n ₂ ) that has returned after the treatment, and calculating the wave efficiency from the following formula. Formula wave efficiency = Initial number of twists (n ₁ ) - Number of returns after treatment (n ₂ ) / Initial number of twists (n ₁ ) × 100 (%)