EP0290027A2 - Process for the decoration of textile fabrics - Google Patents

Process for the decoration of textile fabrics Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0290027A2
EP0290027A2 EP88107252A EP88107252A EP0290027A2 EP 0290027 A2 EP0290027 A2 EP 0290027A2 EP 88107252 A EP88107252 A EP 88107252A EP 88107252 A EP88107252 A EP 88107252A EP 0290027 A2 EP0290027 A2 EP 0290027A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
enzymatic hydrolysis
carrier material
enzyme
resistant
useful
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Granted
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EP88107252A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0290027A3 (en
EP0290027B1 (en
Inventor
Hans-Jürgen Dr. rer. nat. Singer
Sabine Dr. rer. nat. Hübert
Günter Dr. rer. nat. Klappach
Dieter Eisenschmidt
Joachim Dipl.-Ing. Kopp
Wolfgang Dipl.-Ing. Stüber
Gerhard Dr. Rer. Nat. Kerns
Dietrich Prof. Dr. Sc. Nat. Meyer
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PLAUENER SPITZE GESELLSCHAFT MIT BESCHRAENKTER HAF
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Plauener Spitze GmbH
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Priority to AT88107252T priority Critical patent/ATE74169T1/en
Publication of EP0290027A2 publication Critical patent/EP0290027A2/en
Publication of EP0290027A3 publication Critical patent/EP0290027A3/en
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06Q—DECORATING TEXTILES
    • D06Q1/00—Decorating textiles
    • D06Q1/02—Producing patterns by locally destroying or modifying the fibres of a web by chemical actions, e.g. making translucent

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for decorating textile goods, which consists of a portion of useful material and a portion of carrier material, by locally or completely degrading the carrier material.
  • FREIER describes another process in which polyvinyl alcohol is used as the carrier material in the manufacture of air embroidery fibrous material is used, which is dissolved in hot water after embroidery.
  • this type of fiber is relatively expensive, so that its use must be limited mainly to the production of very fine embroidery.
  • the method is subject to restrictions with regard to possible thermofixing of the textile goods before the carrier material is removed. Such a fixation is only possible up to about 180 ° C, whereby certain types of useful material cannot be completely fixed out.
  • the invention seeks to remedy this.
  • the invention as characterized in the claims, solves the problem of creating a method for decorating textile goods in which the textile goods consisting of useful material and carrier material are treated in a manner that is gentle on the fibers and without mechanical stress, so that even very fine decorations can be produced, less aggressive environmental substances are used and further processing of the degradation products is guaranteed.
  • the advantages achieved by the invention are essentially to be seen in the fact that the design is already determined in the first step of the process, since the decorating effects are prefabricated in the textile material.
  • the decoration is carried out either in such a way that useful material is applied to an existing carrier material in a predetermined, pattern-like arrangement, or predetermined, pattern-like areas can be rendered inert in a textile material consisting of carrier material and useful material.
  • the textile is then subjected to enzymatic hydrolysis.
  • the textile material which is composed of a carrier material consisting of non-enzyme-resistant types of fiber and of a useful material consisting of enzyme-resistant and / or more enzyme-resistant compared to the carrier material, is changed as a result of the enzymatic hydrolysis in such a way that the decorative effect formed by the non-degraded useful material is retained .
  • the carrier material consists of regenerated cellulose fibers and the useful material consists of synthetic fiber material or of mixtures of synthetic fiber material and cellulose fiber material. Accordingly, cellulases are used for the enzymatic hydrolysis. In the dissolved state, these convert the cellulose into glucose, the carrier material being detached from the useful material.
  • fiber materials are used as useful materials which are not absolutely enzyme-resistant, but are only more enzyme-resistant than the carrier material.
  • These types of fibers can be used either separately or in a mixture with enzyme-resistant types of fibers.
  • these are, on the one hand, cellulose fibers, which are compared to Cellu Loseregeneratfaserstoffe have a higher average degree of polymerization and higher crystallinity. They are expediently rendered inert in a manner known per se before the enzymatic hydrolysis. It is also possible to use inert cellulose regenerated fiber materials as useful material.
  • the method according to the invention can advantageously be used wherever the entire carrier material has to be removed from the useful material after the prefabrication of the decoration effects. This is the case, for example, in the manufacture of air embroidery.
  • a fabric consisting of regenerated cellulose fiber forms the carrier material, which is embroidered in the process step "preparation of the decorative effects" with thread material made of synthetic fiber material, mixtures of synthetic fiber material / cellulose fiber material (inert) or cellulose fiber material (inert).
  • thread material made of synthetic fiber material, mixtures of synthetic fiber material / cellulose fiber material (inert) or cellulose fiber material (inert).
  • the carrier material is completely removed; the air embroidery product remains as a product.
  • the textile surface consists first of all of the carrier material (advantageously cellulose regenerated fiber material) and the useful material (advantageously synthetic fiber material).
  • the decorative effects are prefabricated in such a way that pattern parts are covered in a known manner by means of templates; the inerting agent is applied to the exposed sample parts.
  • the textile material is then subjected to enzymatic hydrolysis.
  • the carrier material is removed from the sample parts covered during prefabrication, while it is in the inertized sample parts lasts.
  • the useful material is not attacked. This creates the textile surface described above.
  • the process conditions according to the invention are characterized in that extremes at temperature and pressure are avoided.
  • the enzymatic hydrolysis is advantageously carried out in a liquor temperature range from 40 to 60 ° C., a pH value range from 4.0 to 5.5 and at atmospheric pressure.
  • Both commercially available and freshly obtained cellulases can be used as enzymes.
  • the form of the latter can be in the form of a culture filtrate, a concentrate or a purified dry preparation.
  • Particularly suitable enzymes are cellulases from the strains ZIMET 43 802 (obtained from fungal mutant Aspergillus terreus), ZIMET 43 803 and ZIMET 43 804 (both obtained from Trichoderma reesei), which were deposited on September 20, 1985 with the depository at the Central Institute for Microbiology and Experimental Therapy Academy of Sciences of the GDR, Beutenberg Str. 11, Jena, and on April 26, 1988 with the National Collection of Agricultural and Industrial Microorganisms (NCAIM), P.O.Box 53, Budapest.
  • the strains received the deposit numbers 001057 (ZIMET 43 802), 001055 (ZIMET 43 803) and 001056 (ZIMET 43 804) when they were deposited with the NCAIM.
  • the enzymatic hydrolysis can be carried out in one or more stages.
  • Treatment with a cellulase solution is then carried out with the following parameters: - Cellulase: obtained by fermentation from Trichoderma reesei ZIMET 43 803 and used as culture filtrate with FPA 16 IU / ml - pH: 4.6 - Temperature: 50 ° C - Pressure: atmospheric - Fleet ratio: 1:10 - Duration of treatment: 16 h
  • Example 1 A fabric according to Example 1 is embroidered as described above.
  • An enzyme solution with FPA 16 IU / ml is prepared from the dry cellulase preparation "Onozuka R 10" (commercially available), the pH is adjusted to 4.6 and the conditions for the treatment of the tissue are selected as in Example 1.
  • the liquid phase is separated from the tissue by pressing and the tissue is treated with fresh enzyme solution for a further 12 hours. This leaves an air embroidery made of polyester threads.
  • the separated liquid phases contain the cleavage products of the enzymatically degraded viscose silk and are processed further in a known manner.
  • a fabric according to Example 1 is embroidered with thread material made of Bw, fineness 10 tex x 2 (front thread) and 6.4 tex x 2 (back thread), which was inerted with paraffin before processing.
  • the enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out in accordance with Example 1, but using a cellulase which was produced by fermentation using Trichoderma reesei ZIMET 43 804 and was adjusted from the concentrate to FPA 16 IU / ml by redilution.
  • the resulting air embroidery still has 80% of the initial strength in terms of tear strength.
  • This is followed by enzymatic hydrolysis according to Example 1, but using a cellulase which has been produced by fermentation using Aspergillus terreus ZIMET 43 802 and is present as a purified dry preparation.
  • the result is an ornate textile fabric which, according to the pattern, has areas of greater transparency at those points at which no inerting agent was applied during the pretreatment and consequently the VI-F portion was hydrolyzed.

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  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Biochemistry (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Gloves (AREA)

Abstract

In this process, the decorative effects are prefabricated on the textile material and then treated by means of enzymatic hydrolysis, the carrier material consisting of cuts of fibre material which are not enzyme-resistant and/or more enzyme-resistant than the carrier material. The carrier material is removed either completely or from areas defined in terms of pattern in the course of the prefabrication of the decorative effects, without destroying the fibre, without employing mechanical stress and while reducing the use of environmentally harmful aggressive media. Further processibility of the degradation products is ensured.

Description

Die Erfindung bezieht sich auf ein Verfahren zum Verzieren von Textilgut, das aus einem Anteil Nutzmaterial und einem Anteil Trägermaterial besteht, durch örtlich begrenzten oder vollständigen Abbau des Trägermaterials.The invention relates to a method for decorating textile goods, which consists of a portion of useful material and a portion of carrier material, by locally or completely degrading the carrier material.

In der Textilindustrie werden Verzierungseffekte, die auf der Wirkung von Durchbrucheffekten im Textilgut oder auf unterschiedlicher Transparenz abgegrenzter Teile des Textilgutes beruhen, unter anderem dadurch hergestellt, daß bei dem aus Trägermaterial und Nutzmaterial bestehenden Textilgut das Trägermaterial vollständig oder örtlich be­grenzt durch Ätzen entfernt wird.In the textile industry, decorative effects that are based on the effect of breakthrough effects in the textile material or on different transparency of delimited parts of the textile material are produced, inter alia, by completely or locally removing the carrier material from the textile material consisting of carrier material and useful material by etching.

Es ist ein Verfahren zum Verzieren von Textilgut gemäß dem Oberbegriff des Patentanspruchs 1 bekannt, bei dem das Trä­germaterial, das aus Viskoseseide besteht und zunächst den Stickgrund bildet, durch Tränken mit Al₂(SO₄)₃-Lösung vor dem Sticken und thermische Behandlung nach dem Sticken, die zur Carbonisation führt, zerstört wird. Ein solches Ver­fahren, das den Stickereifachleuten als "Trockenätze" be­kannt ist, wird von FREIER beschrieben (Technologie und Erzeugnislehre Stickerei, 1984, Leipzig). Das Verfahren hat den Nachteil, daß das Trägermaterial zwar zerstört vorliegt, aber unter Aufwendung hoher mechanischer Kräfte durch Klopfen vom Nutzmaterial getrennt werden muß. Dieser Vor­gang ist lärm- und staubintensiv und führt infolge der hohen mechanische Belastung des Nutzmaterials dazu, daß die Stickerei sehr massiv konstruiert werden muß. FREIER be­schreibt ein weiteres Verfahren, bei welchem bei der Luft­stickereiherstellung als Trägermaterial Polyvinylalkohol­ faserstoff verwendet wird, der nach dem Besticken in heißem Wasser aufgelöst wird. Diese Faserstoffart ist jedoch ver­hältnismäßig kostenaufwendig, so daß sich ihr Einsatz vor­wiegend auf die Herstellung sehr feiner Stickereien be­schränken muß. Des weiteren unterliegt das Verfahren Ein­schränkungen hinsichtlich einer möglichen Thermofixage des Textilgutes vor dem Herauslösen des Trägermaterials. Eine solche Fixage ist hier nur bis etwa 180 °C möglich, wobei bestimmte Nutzmaterialarten nicht vollständig ausfixiert werden können.There is a method for decorating textile goods according to the preamble of claim 1 known, in which the carrier material, which consists of viscose silk and first forms the embroidery base, by soaking with Al₂ (SO₄) ₃ solution before embroidery and thermal treatment after embroidery that leads to carbonization is destroyed. Such a process, which is known to embroidery specialists as "dry etching", is described by FREIER (Technologie und Produktlehre embroidery, 1984, Leipzig). The method has the disadvantage that the carrier material is destroyed, but must be separated from the useful material by knocking using high mechanical forces. This process is noise and dust intensive and, due to the high mechanical load on the useful material, means that the embroidery has to be constructed very solidly. FREIER describes another process in which polyvinyl alcohol is used as the carrier material in the manufacture of air embroidery fibrous material is used, which is dissolved in hot water after embroidery. However, this type of fiber is relatively expensive, so that its use must be limited mainly to the production of very fine embroidery. Furthermore, the method is subject to restrictions with regard to possible thermofixing of the textile goods before the carrier material is removed. Such a fixation is only possible up to about 180 ° C, whereby certain types of useful material cannot be completely fixed out.

Weiterhin ist es bekannt, örtlich begrenzte Verzierungen von Textilgut mit Hilfe des Ausbrenndrucks herzustellen. Eine Beschreibung des Grundprozesses gibt RATH (Lehrbuch der Textilchemie, 1972, Berlin - Heidelberg - New York). Hierbei werden verdickte Säuren oder saure Salze auf ein wiederum aus Träger- und Nutzmaterial bestehendes Textilgut aufgedruckt, wonach unter Hitzeeinwirkung eine lokale, mustergemäße Carbonisation erfolgt. Dieses Verfahen ist energieaufwendig, wegen der notwendigen mechanischen Nach­behandlung faserstoffbelastend und wegen der verwendeten aggressiven Chemikalien und Abbauprodukte mit vergleichs­weise hohem sicherheitstechnischen Aufwand verbunden.Furthermore, it is known to produce locally limited embellishments of textile goods with the aid of the burnout pressure. A description of the basic process is provided by RATH (Textbook of Textile Chemistry, 1972, Berlin - Heidelberg - New York). In this process, thickened acids or acid salts are printed on a textile material, which in turn consists of carrier and useful material, after which a local, exemplary carbonization takes place under the action of heat. This process is energy-intensive, due to the necessary mechanical aftertreatment polluting the fiber and due to the aggressive chemicals and degradation products used, it involves a comparatively high level of safety engineering.

Hier will die Erfindung Abhilfe schaffen. Die Erfindung, wie sie in den Ansprüchen gekennzeichnet ist, löst die Aufgabe, ein Verfahen zum Verzieren von Textilgut zu schaffen, bei dem das aus Nutzmaterial und Trägermaterial bestehende Textilgut faserschonend und ohne mechanische Be­lastung behandelt wird, so daß auch sehr feine Verzierungen herstellbar sind, wobei weniger die Umwelt belastende aggres­sive Wirkstoffe eingesetzt werden und eine Weiterverarbei­tung der Abbauprodukte gewährleistet ist.The invention seeks to remedy this. The invention, as characterized in the claims, solves the problem of creating a method for decorating textile goods in which the textile goods consisting of useful material and carrier material are treated in a manner that is gentle on the fibers and without mechanical stress, so that even very fine decorations can be produced, less aggressive environmental substances are used and further processing of the degradation products is guaranteed.

Die durch die Erfindung erreichten Vorteile sind im wesent­lichen darin zu sehen, daß bereits im ersten Verfahrensschritt die Dessinierung festgelegt ist, da die Verzierungseffekte im Textilgut vorgefertigt sind. Die Verzierung erfolgt entweder in der Weise, daß auf ein vorhandenes Trägermaterial in vor­bestimmter, mustergemäßer Anordnung Nutzmaterial aufgebracht wird, oder es können in einem aus Trägermaterial und Nutz­material bestehenden Textilgut vorbestimmte, mustergemäße Bereiche inertisiert werden. Danach wird das Textilgut einer enzymatischen Hydrolyse unterworfen. Das Textilgut, welches aus einem aus nicht enzymbeständigen Faserstoffarten bestehenden Trägermaterial und aus einem aus enzymbeständigen und/oder gegenüber dem Trägermaterial enzymbeständigeren Faserstoff­arten bestehenden Nutzmaterial aufgebaut ist, wird infolge der enzymatischen Hydrolyse in einer Art verändert, daß der vom nicht abgebauten Nutzmaterial gebildete Verzierungs­effekt erhalten bleibt.The advantages achieved by the invention are essentially to be seen in the fact that the design is already determined in the first step of the process, since the decorating effects are prefabricated in the textile material. The decoration is carried out either in such a way that useful material is applied to an existing carrier material in a predetermined, pattern-like arrangement, or predetermined, pattern-like areas can be rendered inert in a textile material consisting of carrier material and useful material. The textile is then subjected to enzymatic hydrolysis. The textile material, which is composed of a carrier material consisting of non-enzyme-resistant types of fiber and of a useful material consisting of enzyme-resistant and / or more enzyme-resistant compared to the carrier material, is changed as a result of the enzymatic hydrolysis in such a way that the decorative effect formed by the non-degraded useful material is retained .

Ein weiterer Vorteil ist darin zu sehen, daß das Träger­material aus Celluloseregeneratfasern und das Nutzmaterial aus Synthesefaserstoff oder aus Mischungen Synthesefaser­stoff/Cellulosefaserstoff besteht, demzufolge werden für die enzymatische Hydrolyse Cellulasen eingesetzt. Diese setzen in gelöstem Zustand die Cellulose in Glukose um, wobei das Trägermaterial aus dem Nutzmaterial herausgelöst wird.Another advantage can be seen in the fact that the carrier material consists of regenerated cellulose fibers and the useful material consists of synthetic fiber material or of mixtures of synthetic fiber material and cellulose fiber material. Accordingly, cellulases are used for the enzymatic hydrolysis. In the dissolved state, these convert the cellulose into glucose, the carrier material being detached from the useful material.

Der Anwendungsbereich des erfindungsgemäßen Verfahrens läßt sich erheblich dadurch erweitern, daß als Nutzmateri­alien auch Faserstoffarten eingesetzt werden, welche nicht absolut enzymbeständig, sondern lediglich gegenüber dem Trägermaterial enzymbeständiger sind. Diese Faserstoffarten können entweder separat oder in Mischung mit enzymbeständi­gen Faserstoffarten eingesetzt werden. In der Praxis sind dies zum einen Cellulosefaserstoffe, welche gegenüber Cellu­ loseregeneratfaserstoffen einen höheren Durchschnittspoly­merisationsgrad und höhere Kristallinität besitzen. Sie werden zweckmäßig vor der enzymatischen Hydrolyse in an sich bekannter Weise inertisiert. Ebenso ist es auch mög­lich, inertisierte Celluloseregeneratfaserstoffe als Nutz­material einzusetzen.The field of application of the method according to the invention can be expanded considerably in that fiber materials are used as useful materials which are not absolutely enzyme-resistant, but are only more enzyme-resistant than the carrier material. These types of fibers can be used either separately or in a mixture with enzyme-resistant types of fibers. In practice, these are, on the one hand, cellulose fibers, which are compared to Cellu Loseregeneratfaserstoffe have a higher average degree of polymerization and higher crystallinity. They are expediently rendered inert in a manner known per se before the enzymatic hydrolysis. It is also possible to use inert cellulose regenerated fiber materials as useful material.

Das erfindungsgemäße Verfahren läßt sich vorteilhaft ein­mal dort anwenden, wo es um das Herauslösen des gesamten Trägermaterials aus dem Nutzmaterial nach der Vorfertigung der Verzierungseffekte geht. Dieses ist beispielsweise bei der Herstellung von Luftstickereien der Fall. Hier bildet ein aus Celluloseregeneratfaserstoff bestehendes Gewebe das Trägermaterial, welches in der Verfahrensstufe "Vorfertigen der Verzierungseffekte" mit Fadenmaterial aus Synthesefaser­stoff, Mischungen Synthesefaserstoff/Cellulosefaserstoff (inertisiert) oder Cellulosefaserstoff (inertisiert) bestickt wird. Bei der enzymatischen Hydrolyse wird das Trägermateri­al vollständig herausgelöst; als Produkt verbleibt das Luft­stickereierzeugnis.The method according to the invention can advantageously be used wherever the entire carrier material has to be removed from the useful material after the prefabrication of the decoration effects. This is the case, for example, in the manufacture of air embroidery. Here, a fabric consisting of regenerated cellulose fiber forms the carrier material, which is embroidered in the process step "preparation of the decorative effects" with thread material made of synthetic fiber material, mixtures of synthetic fiber material / cellulose fiber material (inert) or cellulose fiber material (inert). During the enzymatic hydrolysis, the carrier material is completely removed; the air embroidery product remains as a product.

Ein weiteres wichtiges Anwendungsgebiet besteht in der Her­stellung von flächenhaftem Textilgut, bei welchem Musterpar­tien unterschiedlicher Transparenz über die Fläche verteilt vorliegen. Hier besteht die textile Fläche zunächst aus dem Trägermaterial (vorteilhaft Celluloseregeneratfaserstoff) und dem Nutzmaterial (vorteilhaft Synthesefaserstoff). Die Ver­zierungseffekte werden in der Weise vorgefertigt, daß in bekannter Weise mittels Schablonen Musterteile abgedeckt werden; auf die offenliegenden Musterteile wird das Inerti­sierungsmittel aufgebracht. Nachfolgend wird das Textilgut der enzymatischen Hydrolyse unterzogen. Dabei wird aus den beim Vorfertigen abgedeckten Musterteilen das Trägermaterial entfernt, während es in den inertisierten Musterteilen er­ halten bleibt. Das Nutzmaterial wird nicht angegriffen. Auf diese Weise entsteht die oben beschriebene textile Fläche.Another important area of application is the production of flat textile goods, in which sample parts of different transparency are distributed over the surface. Here the textile surface consists first of all of the carrier material (advantageously cellulose regenerated fiber material) and the useful material (advantageously synthetic fiber material). The decorative effects are prefabricated in such a way that pattern parts are covered in a known manner by means of templates; the inerting agent is applied to the exposed sample parts. The textile material is then subjected to enzymatic hydrolysis. The carrier material is removed from the sample parts covered during prefabrication, while it is in the inertized sample parts lasts. The useful material is not attacked. This creates the textile surface described above.

Die erfindungsgemäßen Verfahrensbedingungen zeichnen sich dadurch aus, daß Extrema bei Temperatur und Druck vermieden werden. Vorteilhaft wird bei der enzymatischen Hydrolyse in einem Flottentemperaturbereich von 40 bis 60 °C, einem pH-­Wert-Bereich von 4,0 bis 5,5 und bei atmosphärischem Druck gearbeitet. Als Enzyme lassen sich sowohl handelsübliche als auch durch Fermentation frisch gewonnene Cellulasen ein­setzen. Von der Konfektionierungsform her können letztere als Kulturfiltrat, als Konzentrat oder als gereinigtes Trok­kenpräparat vorliegen. Besonders geeignete Enzyme sind Cellulasen der Stämme ZIMET 43 802 (gewonnen aus Pilzmutante Aspergillus terreus), ZIMET 43 803 und ZIMET 43 804 (beide gewonnen aus Trichoderma reesei), die am 20. September 1985 bei der Hinterlegungstelle im Zentral­institut für Mikrobiologie und Experimentelle Therapie der Akademie der Wissenschaften der DDR, Beutenberg Str. 11, Jena, sowie am 26. April 1988 bei der National Collection of Agricultural and Industrial Microorganisms (NCAIM), Postfach 53, Budapest, hinterlegt wurden. Die Stämme erhielten bei der Hinterlegung bei der NCAIM die Hinterlegungsnummern 001057 (ZIMET 43 802), 001055 (ZIMET 43 803) und 001056 (ZIMET 43 804).The process conditions according to the invention are characterized in that extremes at temperature and pressure are avoided. The enzymatic hydrolysis is advantageously carried out in a liquor temperature range from 40 to 60 ° C., a pH value range from 4.0 to 5.5 and at atmospheric pressure. Both commercially available and freshly obtained cellulases can be used as enzymes. The form of the latter can be in the form of a culture filtrate, a concentrate or a purified dry preparation. Particularly suitable enzymes are cellulases from the strains ZIMET 43 802 (obtained from fungal mutant Aspergillus terreus), ZIMET 43 803 and ZIMET 43 804 (both obtained from Trichoderma reesei), which were deposited on September 20, 1985 with the depository at the Central Institute for Microbiology and Experimental Therapy Academy of Sciences of the GDR, Beutenberg Str. 11, Jena, and on April 26, 1988 with the National Collection of Agricultural and Industrial Microorganisms (NCAIM), P.O.Box 53, Budapest. The strains received the deposit numbers 001057 (ZIMET 43 802), 001055 (ZIMET 43 803) and 001056 (ZIMET 43 804) when they were deposited with the NCAIM.

Die enzymatische Hydrolyse kann sowohl einstufig als auch mehrstufig durch­geführt werden.The enzymatic hydrolysis can be carried out in one or more stages.

Schließlich ist es ohne weiteres möglich, die hierbei entstehende Glukose in an sich bekannter Weise zu Ethanol oder anderen Wertstoffen weiterzu­verarbeiten.Finally, it is readily possible to further process the resulting glucose to ethanol or other valuable substances in a manner known per se.

Durch diese Maßnahmen des Verfahrens ist eine breite Musterungsmöglichkeit gewährleistet, das Nutzmaterial wird schonend behandelt, und bei sicher­heitstechnisch sehr geringem Aufwand ist eine kostengünstige Durchführung ermöglicht.These measures of the method ensure a wide range of patterning options, the useful material is treated with care, and cost-effective implementation is possible with very little effort in terms of safety technology.

Im folgenden wird die Erfindung anhand von Ausführungsbeispielen näher er­läutert:The invention is explained in more detail below on the basis of exemplary embodiments:

Beispiel 1:Example 1:

Ein leinwandbindiges Gewebe aus VI-S, Fadendichten 240/dm (Kette) und 280/dm (Schuß), Masse je Flächeneinheit 65 g/m², wird mit Fäden aus PE-F, Feinheit 30 tex x 2 (Vorderfaden) und 10 tex x 2 (Hinterfaden) bestickt. Anschließend erfolgt eine Behandlung mit einer Cellulaselösung mit folgenden Para­metern:
- Cellulase: gewonnen durch Fermentation aus Trichoderma reesei ZIMET 43 803 und eingesetzt als Kultur­filtrat mit FPA 16 IU/ml
- pH-Wert: 4,6
- Temperatur: 50°C
- Druck: atmosphärisch
- Flottenverhältnis: 1 : 10
- Behandlungsdauer: 16 hA plain weave made of VI-S, thread densities 240 / dm (warp) and 280 / dm (weft), mass per unit area 65 g / m², is made with threads of PE-F, fineness 30 tex x 2 (front thread) and 10 tex x 2 (rear thread) embroidered. Treatment with a cellulase solution is then carried out with the following parameters:
- Cellulase: obtained by fermentation from Trichoderma reesei ZIMET 43 803 and used as culture filtrate with FPA 16 IU / ml
- pH: 4.6
- Temperature: 50 ° C
- Pressure: atmospheric
- Fleet ratio: 1:10
- Duration of treatment: 16 h

Es entsteht eine aus 100 % Polyester bestehende Luftstickerei. In der Lösung verbleibt Glukose und ein geringer Anteil ihrer Oligomeren. Die Lösung wird in bekannter Weise zu Ethanol auf­gearbeitet.An air embroidery consisting of 100% polyester is created. Glucose and a small proportion of its oligomers remain in the solution. The solution is worked up to ethanol in a known manner.

Beispiel 2:Example 2:

Ein Gewebe gemäß Beispiel 1 wird wie oben beschrieben be­stickt. Aus dem trockenen Cellulasepräparat "Onozuka R 10" (handelsüblich) wird eine Enzymlösung mit FPA 16 IU/ml her­gestellt, der pH-Wert auf 4,6 eingestellt und die Bedingun­gen für die Behandlung des Gewebes wie im Beispiel 1 ge­wählt.A fabric according to Example 1 is embroidered as described above. An enzyme solution with FPA 16 IU / ml is prepared from the dry cellulase preparation "Onozuka R 10" (commercially available), the pH is adjusted to 4.6 and the conditions for the treatment of the tissue are selected as in Example 1.

Nach 12stündiger Behandlung wird die flüssige Phase vom Ge­webe durch Abpressen abgetrennt und das Gewebe mit frischer Enzymlösung weitere 12 h behandelt. Danach verbleibt eine aus Polyesterfäden bestehende Luftstickerei.After 12 hours of treatment, the liquid phase is separated from the tissue by pressing and the tissue is treated with fresh enzyme solution for a further 12 hours. This leaves an air embroidery made of polyester threads.

Die abgetrennten flüssigen Phasen enthalten die Spaltpro­dukte der enzymatisch abgebauten Viskoseseide und werden in bekannter Weise weiterverarbeitet.The separated liquid phases contain the cleavage products of the enzymatically degraded viscose silk and are processed further in a known manner.

Beispiel 3:Example 3:

Ein Gewebe gemäß Beispiel 1 wird mit Fadenmaterial aus Bw, Feinheit 10 tex x 2 (Vorderfaden) und 6,4 tex x 2 (Hinter­faden) bestickt, welches vor der Verarbeitung mit Paraffin inertisiert wurde. Die enzymatische Hydrolyse wird gemäß Beispiel 1 vorgenommen, jedoch unter Einsatz einer Cellu­lase, die durch Fermentation mittels Trichoderma reesei ZIMET 43 804 hergestellt und aus dem Konzentrat durch Rück­verdünnung auf die FPA 16 IU/ml eingestellt wurde. Die da­nach entstandene Luftstickerei besitzt in der Reißfestig­keit noch 80 % der Ausgangsfestigkeit.A fabric according to Example 1 is embroidered with thread material made of Bw, fineness 10 tex x 2 (front thread) and 6.4 tex x 2 (back thread), which was inerted with paraffin before processing. The enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out in accordance with Example 1, but using a cellulase which was produced by fermentation using Trichoderma reesei ZIMET 43 804 and was adjusted from the concentrate to FPA 16 IU / ml by redilution. The resulting air embroidery still has 80% of the initial strength in terms of tear strength.

Beispiel 4:Example 4:

Ein leinwandbindiges Gewebe aus 50 PE-F/50 VI-F, Fadendich­ten 270/dm (Kette) und 150/dm (Schuß), Masse je Flächenein­heit 230 g/m², wird im Schablonendruckverfahren mustergemäß mit verflüssigtem Paraffin inertisiert. Anschließend erfolgt eine enzymatische Hydrolyse gemäß Beispiel 1, aber unter Ver­wendung einer Cellulase, die durch Fermentation mittels As­pergillus terreus ZIMET 43 802 hergestellt wurde und als ge­reinigtes Trockenpräparat vorliegt. Es entsteht ein ver­ziertes textiles Flächengebilde, welches mustergemäß Bereiche höherer Transparenz an den Stellen aufweist, an welchen bei der Vorbehandlung kein Inertisierungsmittel aufgebracht wurde und demzufolge der VI-F-Anteil hydrolysiert wurde.A plain weave fabric made of 50 PE-F / 50 VI-F, thread densities 270 / dm (warp) and 150 / dm (weft), mass per unit area 230 g / m², is inerted according to the stencil printing process with liquefied paraffin. This is followed by enzymatic hydrolysis according to Example 1, but using a cellulase which has been produced by fermentation using Aspergillus terreus ZIMET 43 802 and is present as a purified dry preparation. The result is an ornate textile fabric which, according to the pattern, has areas of greater transparency at those points at which no inerting agent was applied during the pretreatment and consequently the VI-F portion was hydrolyzed.

Claims (9)

1. Verfahren zum Verzieren von Textilgut, das aus einem Anteil Trägermaterial und einem Anteil Nutzmaterial besteht, durch örtlich begrenzten oder vollständigen Abbau des Trägermaterials, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Verzierungseffekte vorgefertigt werden und danach das Texilgut einer enzymatischen Hydrolyse unterworfen wird, wobei das Trägermaterial aus nicht enzymbestän­digen und das Nutzmaterial aus enzymbeständigen und/oder gegenüber dem Trägermaterial enzymbeständigeren Faser­stoffarten besteht.1. A method for decorating textile material, which consists of a portion of carrier material and a portion of useful material, by local or complete degradation of the carrier material, characterized in that the decorating effects are prefabricated and then the textile material is subjected to enzymatic hydrolysis, the carrier material from not enzyme-resistant and the useful material consists of enzyme-resistant and / or fiber-resistant types of enzyme compared to the carrier material. 2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Trägermaterial aus Celluloseregeneratfaserstoff und das Nutzmaterial aus Synthesefaserstoff oder aus Misch­ungen Synthesefaserstoff/Cellulosefaserstoff besteht und daß als Enzyme Cellulasen eingesetzt werden.2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the carrier material consists of regenerated cellulose fiber and the useful material consists of synthetic fiber material or of mixtures of synthetic fiber material and cellulose fiber material and that cellulases are used as enzymes. 3. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1 und 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Trägermaterial vor der enzymatischen Hydrolyse örtlich begrenzt inertisiert wird.3. The method according to claim 1 and 2, characterized in that the carrier material is inertized locally limited prior to the enzymatic hydrolysis. 4. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1 und 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß als Nutzmaterial Cellulosefaserstoff eingesetzt wird, der vor der enzymatischen Hydrolyse inertisiert wird.4. The method according to claim 1 and 2, characterized in that cellulose fiber is used as the useful material, which is inerted before the enzymatic hydrolysis. 5. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die enzymatische Hydrolyse bei einer Temperatur von 40 bis 60 °C und atmosphärischem Druck durchgeführt wird und daß der pH-Wert der Lösung zwischen 4,0 und 5,5 liegt.5. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out at a temperature of 40 to 60 ° C and atmospheric pressure and that the pH of the solution is between 4.0 and 5.5. 6. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1 und 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß für die enzymatische Hydrolyse durch Fermentation frisch gewonnene Cellulasen in der Konfektionierungsform als Kulturfiltrat, als Konzentrat oder als gereinigtes Trockenpräparat oder handelsübliche Cellulasen eingesetzt werden.6. The method according to claim 1 and 5, characterized in that for the enzymatic hydrolysis by fermentation freshly obtained cellulases are used in the form of preparation as a culture filtrate, as a concentrate or as a purified dry preparation or commercially available cellulases. 7. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, 5 und 6, dadurch gekennzeich­net, daß für die enzymatische Hydrolyse Cellulasen ein­gesetzt werden, die durch Fermentation aus den Pilzmutanten Aspergillus terreus, ZIMET 43 802, oder Trichoderma reesei, ZIMET 43 803 und ZIMET 43 804, gewonnen werden.7. The method according to claim 1, 5 and 6, characterized in that cellulases are used for the enzymatic hydrolysis, which are obtained by fermentation from the fungal mutants Aspergillus terreus, ZIMET 43 802, or Trichoderma reesei, ZIMET 43 803 and ZIMET 43 804 . 8. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1 und 5 bis 7, dadurch gekenn­zeichnet, daß die enzymatische Hydrolyse ein- oder mehr­stufig durchgeführt wird.8. The method according to claim 1 and 5 to 7, characterized in that the enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out in one or more stages. 9. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die aus der enzymatischen Hydrolyse entstandene Glukose zu Ethanol oder anderen Werkstoffen weiterverarbeitet wird.9. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the glucose resulting from the enzymatic hydrolysis is further processed to ethanol or other materials.
EP88107252A 1987-05-05 1988-05-05 Process for the decoration of textile fabrics Expired - Lifetime EP0290027B1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT88107252T ATE74169T1 (en) 1987-05-05 1988-05-05 METHOD OF DECORATING TEXTILE PRODUCTS.

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Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DD30245387A DD295686B5 (en) 1987-05-05 1987-05-05 Method for decorating textiles
DD302453 1987-05-05

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EP0290027A2 true EP0290027A2 (en) 1988-11-09
EP0290027A3 EP0290027A3 (en) 1989-10-11
EP0290027B1 EP0290027B1 (en) 1992-03-25

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DD (2) DD295686A5 (en)
DE (1) DE3869461D1 (en)
ES (1) ES2102345T3 (en)

Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1993005226A1 (en) * 1991-08-29 1993-03-18 University Of British Columbia Method for modification of polysaccharide fibres
WO2003035963A2 (en) * 2001-10-20 2003-05-01 Thüringisches Institut für Textil- und Kunststoff-Forschung e.V. Method for separating a textile product consisting of at least two constituents
US6617268B1 (en) 1999-07-07 2003-09-09 Nano-Tex, Llc Method for protecting cotton from enzymatic attack by cellulase enzymes
CN100392174C (en) * 2005-12-13 2008-06-04 浙江大学 Surface modification method for poly(p-phenylenebenzobisoxazole) fiber
CN102352556A (en) * 2011-07-30 2012-02-15 苏州大学 Polymer-coated aramid fiber and preparation method thereof

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19752732C2 (en) * 1997-11-28 2000-02-10 Titv Greiz Process for removing the embroidery base for the production of air embroidery

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB439124A (en) * 1934-05-30 1935-11-29 Fabrication De La Soie Artific Process for obtaining effects or designs on yarns, threads or fabrics composed of orcontaining cellulose esters or ethers
DE692690C (en) * 1935-02-16 1940-06-25 Heberlein & Co Ag Process for the production of patterns on textile surface structures
GB2168393A (en) * 1984-12-18 1986-06-18 Ts Osrodek Badawczo Rozwo A method of removing cellulose and other vegetable contaminants from fabrics

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB439124A (en) * 1934-05-30 1935-11-29 Fabrication De La Soie Artific Process for obtaining effects or designs on yarns, threads or fabrics composed of orcontaining cellulose esters or ethers
DE692690C (en) * 1935-02-16 1940-06-25 Heberlein & Co Ag Process for the production of patterns on textile surface structures
GB2168393A (en) * 1984-12-18 1986-06-18 Ts Osrodek Badawczo Rozwo A method of removing cellulose and other vegetable contaminants from fabrics

Cited By (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO1993005226A1 (en) * 1991-08-29 1993-03-18 University Of British Columbia Method for modification of polysaccharide fibres
US5821358A (en) * 1991-08-29 1998-10-13 University Of British Columbia Methods and compositions for modification of polysaccharide characteristics
US6300493B1 (en) 1991-08-29 2001-10-09 University Of British Columbia Method and compositions for modification of polysaccharide characteristics
US6617268B1 (en) 1999-07-07 2003-09-09 Nano-Tex, Llc Method for protecting cotton from enzymatic attack by cellulase enzymes
WO2003035963A2 (en) * 2001-10-20 2003-05-01 Thüringisches Institut für Textil- und Kunststoff-Forschung e.V. Method for separating a textile product consisting of at least two constituents
WO2003035963A3 (en) * 2001-10-20 2003-11-27 Thueringisches Inst Textil Method for separating a textile product consisting of at least two constituents
CN100392174C (en) * 2005-12-13 2008-06-04 浙江大学 Surface modification method for poly(p-phenylenebenzobisoxazole) fiber
CN102352556A (en) * 2011-07-30 2012-02-15 苏州大学 Polymer-coated aramid fiber and preparation method thereof
CN102352556B (en) * 2011-07-30 2013-12-04 苏州大学 Polymer-coated aramid fiber and preparation method thereof

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ATE74169T1 (en) 1992-04-15
DD295686B5 (en) 1995-03-09
DD295686A5 (en) 1991-11-07
DE3869461D1 (en) 1992-04-30
ES2102345T3 (en) 1997-08-01
EP0290027A3 (en) 1989-10-11
EP0290027B1 (en) 1992-03-25

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