Classifications

• • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
  • C14—SKINS; HIDES; PELTS; LEATHER
  • C14C—CHEMICAL TREATMENT OF HIDES, SKINS OR LEATHER, e.g. TANNING, IMPREGNATING, FINISHING; APPARATUS THEREFOR; COMPOSITIONS FOR TANNING
  • C14C13/00—Manufacture of special kinds or leather, e.g. vellum
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
  • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
  • D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
  • D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
  • D06P3/32—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups leather skins

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a leather article comprising a tinted upper skin.
• the upper of the shoe comprises, in addition to the lining and various reinforcements, a skin over it (kid, goat or calf for example) cut in the cutting workshop of the shoe manufacturer from hides supplied by the tanner.
• the skin purchased in tanning for this purpose is systematically of a given color and quality, this color remaining that of the finished shoe. So, for example, if you want to make a shoe in cherry red or celadon green, you will have to buy from the tanner a cherry red or celadon green hide.
• One of the objects of the invention is to propose a method for manufacturing a leather article which makes it possible to manufacture the article in aticiansserie which has neither received its final color nor its finish, so as not to produce . in advance only semi-finished articles and to finish them at the last moment in the color requested by the market.
• the skin is immersed in a fuller where it is brewed in a humid environment with different chemicals including dyeing, this operation can last several hours.
• a specific pretreatment operation of the leather is carried out after tanning, so as to give the latter maximum absorbency to facilitate penetration of the dye and of the finishing products into a later step.
• retanning that is to say an operation which consists in absorbing non-tanning materials by an already tanned leather, the work being carried out in a fuller similar to that used for tanning, but with a reduced volume of retannant juice.
• the hides and skins will be ready to receive the finishing products they will not have received in the tannery at a later date.
• the skin is given a basic shade, by adding a suitable dye to the fulling juice.
• chrome tanning an orange dye is used at a very low dose (neolane orange from CIBA-GEIGY for example), so that, after retanning, the leather has a neutral final color (it will be noted that the basic color is always the same, and does not depend on the final color that we want to give to the shoe).
• the leather which has not received any finishing product, is delivered by the tanner to the shoe manufacturer in this semi-finished state.
• the dyeing is done with wetting solvents, fatty and heavy, which do not dry the skins and which facilitate the penetration of the color.
• the reference 300 N supplied by CFPI is used as solvent, the dyes being, for example, BAYDERME-A LIQUID dyes supplied by BAYER.
• BAYDERME-A LIQUID dyes supplied by BAYER.
• the finishing products (dye, resins, alcohol) will be able to penetrate deep into the shoe and give it the final appearance d 'a shoe fa briqued according to conventional methods, from a leather normally tanned and colored, and not that of a shoe that would have been painted or repainted (techniques reserved for low-end manufacturing).
• a second supply of tinting product is carried out so as to equalize the color and isolate the skin from external aggressions.
• a suitable solution is for example a solution of casein and acrylic resin (for example THERMACRYL 122 resin supplied by CFPI) mixed with a dye, which is not necessarily the same as that used for the dyeing operation.
• a cellulosic-type fixing agent is then applied to the skin (for example GK 35 lacquer supplied by CFPI) mixed with camphor oil.
• This fixing must be able to resist the friction of the hot iron and allow it to slide.
• the shoe is given its final finishing by color waxing, ironing, singeing and buffing.

Landscapes

• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
• Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
• General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
• Organic Chemistry (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Treatment And Processing Of Natural Fur Or Leather (AREA)
• Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=9333380

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (4)

Cited By (2)

Families Citing this family (1)

Citations (3)

• 1986
  • 1986-03-21 FR FR8604072A patent/FR2596065B1/fr not_active Expired
• 1987
  • 1987-03-18 PT PT8450587A patent/PT84505A/pt unknown
  • 1987-03-19 EP EP87400617A patent/EP0239482A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 1987-06-30 JP JP16144887A patent/JPS646100A/ja active Pending

Patent Citations (3)

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