EP0221121B1 - Textile product presenting obliquely deformed bands, obtention method and installation for implementing said method - Google Patents

Textile product presenting obliquely deformed bands, obtention method and installation for implementing said method Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0221121B1
EP0221121B1 EP19860902839 EP86902839A EP0221121B1 EP 0221121 B1 EP0221121 B1 EP 0221121B1 EP 19860902839 EP19860902839 EP 19860902839 EP 86902839 A EP86902839 A EP 86902839A EP 0221121 B1 EP0221121 B1 EP 0221121B1
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EP
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Prior art keywords
lines
layer
deformation
deformable material
oblique
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EP19860902839
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0221121A1 (en
Inventor
Marie-Claude Mauchamp
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Institut Textile de France
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Institut Textile de France
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B11/00—Machines for sewing quilts or mattresses

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a textile product having obliquely deformed bands, its process for obtaining and the installation for carrying out this process.
  • Textile products have been known for a long time with three-dimensional surface effects. In many cases, these are complexes made up of several layers assembled together by points or lines of attachment; this is how, in the textile complexes known under the general name of quilted, a thin decorative tablecloth is linked to a thicker tablecloth, which can be a cellular material or a non-woven felt, by stitching in a straight line. , in a broken or wavy line. The binding of the thin decorative tablecloth to the thicker tablecloth communicates by itself to the complex obtained a relief effect.
  • FR-A-1 524 215 describes a quilted fabric consisting of the association of any light fabric and a support capable of shrinking relative to this fabric under the effect of heat or any physical treatment. A blistering effect between the bites is communicated to the complex when, once assembled, it is subjected to the treatment capable of causing the retraction of the support.
  • the object of the invention is to provide a textile product with a new appearance and capable of finding numerous applications in the fields where the diversification of the aesthetic appearance obtained plays an important role, and in particular in the field of clothing and furnishings.
  • the invention firstly relates to a textile product consisting of at least one sheet of easily deformable material having strips delimited by substantially parallel lines and which is characterized in that each strip of the sheet easily deformable has an oblique deformation with respect to said delimitation lines and in that the oblique deformations are alternately opposite.
  • the textile product is a complex consisting of the assembly of at least two plies and the substantially parallel lines delimiting the strips on the ply of easily deformable material also constitute the lines for securing the 'tablecloths.
  • the complex is constituted by the assembly of a relatively thick ply sandwiched between two plies of easily deformable material.
  • the sheet of easily deformable material is advantageously chosen from thin sheets such as fabrics, knits, fleeces of nonwovens and plastic sheets and the other sheet is chosen from flexible materials with little deformation, of thickness greater than that of the deformable sheet, such as plastic foams and thick nonwovens.
  • the process for obtaining the product according to the invention consists in carrying out an oblique deformation on a strip of deformable material comprised between two lines by application to these two lines of force having a direction parallel to the general direction of each of said lines, but of opposite direction, so as to create a torque on this strip.
  • the permanence of the oblique deformation thus produced is obtained by any suitable fixing means, such as thermofixation in the case of a polyester fabric, or the joining of the deformed material to the second non-deformed component in the case of a complex.
  • the torques created on two adjacent bands are advantageously in opposite directions.
  • the intensity of the torque is variable depending on the bands, which makes it possible to communicate a more or less strong deformation to the band.
  • the lines of application of the forces advantageously correspond to the lines for securing the sheet of deformable material with a thicker sheet.
  • the joining lines are advantageously rectilinear.
  • the non-rectilinear joining lines are of rectilinear general direction.
  • the plies are joined together in a known manner by sewing, gluing or by heat-sealing and in particular by high frequency application.
  • the textile product (2) consists of at least one ply (3) of easily deformable material having bands (5) delimited by substantially parallel lines (4).
  • each strip (5) has, with respect to the delimitation lines (4), an oblique deformation and the oblique deformations located on either side of the same line (4) are in opposite directions. These oblique deformations can also be exerted in the same direction on one or more bands; the oblique deformation in the opposite direction will then be found on the same number of neighboring bands.
  • the textile product (2) according to the invention consists of the assembly of two plies (3) and (6) and the delimitation lines (4) delimiting the obliquely deformed bands (5) on the sheet of easily deformable material (3) also constitute the joining lines of the assembly of the sheets (3) and (6).
  • This joining can be carried out, in a manner known per se, by injection. It can also be carried out by any other known method such as heat sealing and by application of high frequency.
  • the sheet (3) of easily deformable material can be chosen from fabrics, knitted fabrics, thin nonwoven webs or plastic sheets.
  • the ply (6) has a thickness greater than that of the ply (3) and is advantageously chosen from materials that are not very deformable such as felts, plastic foams or any other similar product.
  • the oblique deformation is carried out by application to a strip (5) of deformable material comprised between two adjacent lines (4a, 4b), of forces F 1 , F 2 having a direction parallel to the general direction of each of these lines, but in opposite directions, so as to create on said strip (5) a torque.
  • the intensity of the forces F 1 and F ' 1 exerted on the lines (4a) and (4c) is varied on the one hand and F 2 and F' 2 exerted on the lines (4b) and ( 4d) on the other hand, the oblique deformation exerted on the bands (5a), (5b), (5c) will be more or less strong: one can thus accentuate the originality of the aspect of the pattern obtained.
  • the lines (4) on which the opposite direction forces are applied also constitute the lines for securing the assembly of the sheet of deformable material (3) and the thicker sheet (6 ).
  • This joining operation carried out by any means known per se, such as sewing, heat sealing, is preferably carried out immediately after the oblique deformation operation.
  • the two oblique deformation and joining operations can also be carried out simultaneously.
  • the securing lines (4) are rectilinear; in the context of the invention, these lines may also not be rectilinear but they must maintain a general rectilinear direction.
  • the installation shown in FIG. 3 is provided for manufacturing a product according to the invention by applying deformation forces in the direction of the width of the deformable ply (3), in which the product (2) is made, the fixing oblique deformation being obtained by sewing the deformed ply on a second non-deformed ply (6).
  • the sheet of easily deformable material (3) and the complementary sheet (6) are in the form of parts wound on mandrels (7) and (8) respectively.
  • the installation conventionally comprises means for unwinding and winding the sheets (3) and (6) and the finished product (2), means for securing and means for applying the deformation forces.
  • the unwinding and winding means are constituted by mandrels (7), (8) and (9) mounted on rotary axes. The rotation of these three axes is synchronized.
  • the securing means consist of a sewing machine (10) equipped with a transverse displacement device over the entire width of the ply (3). (not shown in the drawing).
  • the means for applying the deformation forces comprise, on the one hand, a device for blocking the first line, consisting of a fixed plate (11) placed under the sheet (6) and a bar (12) movable vertically, placed above the web (2) downstream of the sewing machine (10) in the direction of arrow S which illustrates the direction of advancement of the product (2). They comprise, on the other hand, a device (13) for transverse displacement of the ply (3).
  • this device (13) is a jack, the arm of which coincides with the axis of rotation on which the mandrel (7) is mounted, and the stroke of which corresponds to the extreme displacements that l '' we want to give to the tablecloth (3).
  • the sewing machine (10) is at the end of its travel laterally on one side of the product (2): the ply (3) is offset obliquely to the complementary ply (6), that is to the right with respect to the direction of arrow S.
  • the movement device (13) causes the sheet (3) to move in the direction of arrow G, until said sheet (3) is superimposed on the other tablecloth (6).
  • the two plies (3) and (6) and the product (2) advance by the same length L thanks to the synchronized rotation of the axes supporting the mandrels (7), (8) and ( 9), the length L corresponding to the distance between two joining lines and, in this case, to the width of a strip having an oblique deformation.
  • the blocking bar (12) descends and is applied to the product (2) at the level of the seam line (14) which was produced in the previous cycle.
  • the device (13) causes the web (3) to move transversely in the direction of the arrow G.
  • the sewing machine (10) crosses the piece (2) transversely and performs the joining by sewing of the plies (3) and (6) along a distant line (15) of the previous one (14) of length L.
  • the succession of the five stages constitutes an elementary cycle of the manufacture of the product (2), corresponding to the realization of the oblique deformation in a given strip lying between two parallel lines. If one wishes to obtain a product (2) whose appearance is regular, of the chevron type illustrated in FIG. 1, it suffices to repeat the abovementioned elementary cycles exactly, respecting the same adjustment as for the length L and the transverse displacements. of the device (13), but by altering the direction of the arrow G from one cycle to another.
  • the appearance of the product (2) can, of course, be modified at will by modifying the settings of the length L and the transverse displacements of the device (13).
  • the installation shown in FIG. 9 is provided for manufacturing a product (2) by applying deformation forces in the direction of the length of the deformable sheet in which the product is produced. It is particularly suitable for products (2) in the form of a complex in which the complementary ply (6) is an extensible material.
  • the unwinding and winding means are essentially of the same type as those described in the previous installation. However, the axis of rotation supporting the mandrel (7) around which the deformable sheet (3) is wound is not transversely movable.
  • the installation comprises a system (16) for expanding the extendable sheet (6) equipped with guide pins or clamps gripping the edges of the sheet (6).
  • the width at rest of the ply (6) being less than that of the ply (3), the enlarging system (16) carries the ply (6) in transverse extension from the mandrel (8) to a first assembly for securing (17) where the two plies (3) and (6) have the same width.
  • the enlarging system (16) may advantageously comprise several chains of pins whose paths diverge towards the sewing heads (18) of the first assembly of attachment (17).
  • the installation shown in Figure 9 includes two securing assemblies (17) and (19).
  • the means (20) comprises as many active members (24) as there are sewing heads (23), each of these members being placed in front of a sewing head (23).
  • the ply (3) held in extension by the enlarging system (16), and the deformable ply (3) are joined by sewing at the rate of n parallel seam lines when they pass through the assembly (17).
  • the extensible ply (6) resumes its width at rest and causes in this withdrawal the deformable ply (3) which is tied along the seam lines.
  • the ply (3) comprises in the space extending between two lines (21) and (22) of seam an excess of material relative to the web (6). It is this excess of material that the active member (24) will push upstream along the web (6), thus creating the oblique deformation according to the invention, before passing under the sewing head (23 ), which fixes said deformation along the seam lines (25).
  • the enlarging system (16) is replaced by a deforming guide system, intended to give to the ply (3) a non-flat shape during its passage between the sewing heads (18) of the first fastening assembly (17).
  • This guidance system is composed, for example, of a set of rollers of different diameters (not shown) between which the web (3) passes; a wavy shape is communicated to the latter over its entire width, the seam being produced on the lower part of the corrugation, in contact with the complementary ply (6).
  • the oblique deformation of the product (2) is fixed by means of: securing the deformable ply (3) to another ply (6).
  • the fixing of the oblique deformation of the product (2) produced from a single ply may be obtained, for example, in the case of a polyester fabric, by a heat-fixing operation intended to make the deformation permanent obtained according to the method of the invention.
  • This can be achieved on the installation illustrated in FIG. 3 by replacing the sewing machine with a heating plate applied to the length L of fabric corresponding to a given strip.

Abstract

The textile product of the invention is comprised of at least one sheet of easily deformable material presenting bands delimited by substantially parallel lines. According to the invention, each band (5) of the easily deformable sheet (3) presents a deformation skewed with respect to said delimitation lines (4); the skewed deformations are alternatingly opposite. The method for obtaining the textile product comprises the making of a skewed deformation on a band of deformable material comprised between two lines by application on said two lines of forces (F1, F2) having a direction parallel to the general direction of each of said lines, but opposite to each other, so as to create on said band a torsion torque. The installation for implementing the method according to the invention comprises means for winding and unwinding (7, 8, 9) at least one sheet of material, means for application of deformation forces and means for fixing the skewed deformation.

Description

La présente invention concerne un produit textile présentant des bandes déformées obliquement, son procédé d'obtention et l'installation pour la mise en oeuvre de ce procédé.The present invention relates to a textile product having obliquely deformed bands, its process for obtaining and the installation for carrying out this process.

On connaît depuis longtemps des produits textiles présentant des effets de surface tridimensionnels. Il s'agit dans de nombreux cas de complexes constitués de plusieurs nappes assemblées entre elles par des points ou des lignes de solidarisation ; c'est ainsi que, dans les complexes textiles connus sous la dénomination générale de matelassés, une nappe décorative mince est liée à une nappe plus épaisse, qui peut être une matière cellulaire ou un feutre non-tissé, par des piqûres selon un tracé rectiligne, en ligne brisée ou ondulée. Le liage de la nappe décorative mince à la nappe plus épaisse communique par lui-même au complexe obtenu un effet de relief.Textile products have been known for a long time with three-dimensional surface effects. In many cases, these are complexes made up of several layers assembled together by points or lines of attachment; this is how, in the textile complexes known under the general name of quilted, a thin decorative tablecloth is linked to a thicker tablecloth, which can be a cellular material or a non-woven felt, by stitching in a straight line. , in a broken or wavy line. The binding of the thin decorative tablecloth to the thicker tablecloth communicates by itself to the complex obtained a relief effect.

On s'est déjà efforcé de communiquer à ces complexes textiles des effets spéciaux ajoutant au relief obtenu lors du piquage. C'est ainsi que le FR-A-1 524 215 décrit un tissu matelassé constitué de l'association d'un tissu léger quelconque et d'un support susceptible de se rétracter par rapport à ce tissu sous l'effet de la chaleur ou d'un quelconque traitement physique. Un effet de cloquage entre les piqûres est communiqué au complexe quand, une fois assemblé, on le soumet au traitement susceptible de provoquer la rétraction du support.We have already tried to communicate special effects to these textile complexes, adding to the relief obtained during stitching. FR-A-1 524 215 describes a quilted fabric consisting of the association of any light fabric and a support capable of shrinking relative to this fabric under the effect of heat or any physical treatment. A blistering effect between the bites is communicated to the complex when, once assembled, it is subjected to the treatment capable of causing the retraction of the support.

Des effets du même type sont décrits dans le FR-A-1 471 398 selon lequel on réalise des tissus capitonnés doublés par solidarisation d'un tissu élastique maintenu sous tension et d'un capitonnage maintenu sans tension.Effects of the same type are described in FR-A-1 471 398 according to which padded fabrics are made lined by joining an elastic fabric kept under tension and a upholstery kept without tension.

Il faut toutefois noter que jusqu'à présent les effets spéciaux obtenus par ces techniques d'assemblage restent les mêmes entre les différentes lignes d'assemblage, ce qui communique une certaine uniformité à l'effet décoratif obtenu.It should however be noted that so far the special effects obtained by these joining techniques remain the same between the different joining lines, which gives a certain uniformity to the decorative effect obtained.

L'invention s'est donné pour but de fournir un produit textile d'aspect nouveau et susceptible de trouver de nombreuses applications dans les domaines où la diversification de l'aspect esthétique obtenu joue un rôle important, et notamment dans le domaine de l'habillement et de l'ameublement.The object of the invention is to provide a textile product with a new appearance and capable of finding numerous applications in the fields where the diversification of the aesthetic appearance obtained plays an important role, and in particular in the field of clothing and furnishings.

C'est ainsi que l'invention a tout d'abord pour objet un produit textile constitué d'au moins une nappe de matière facilement déformable présentant des bandes délimitées par des lignes sensiblement parallèles et qui est caractérisé en ce que chaque bande de la nappe facilement déformable présente une déformation oblique par rapport auxdites lignes de délimitation et en ce que les déformations obliques sont alternativement opposées.Thus, the invention firstly relates to a textile product consisting of at least one sheet of easily deformable material having strips delimited by substantially parallel lines and which is characterized in that each strip of the sheet easily deformable has an oblique deformation with respect to said delimitation lines and in that the oblique deformations are alternately opposite.

Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention, le produit textile est un complexe constitué de l'assemblage d'au moins deux nappes et les lignes sensiblement parallèles délimitant les bandes sur la nappe de matière facilement déformable constituent également les lignes de solidarisation de l'assemblage des nappes.According to one embodiment of the invention, the textile product is a complex consisting of the assembly of at least two plies and the substantially parallel lines delimiting the strips on the ply of easily deformable material also constitute the lines for securing the 'tablecloths.

Selon un autre mode de réalisation de l'invention, le complexe est constitué par l'assemblage d'une nappe relativement épaisse prise en sandwich entre deux nappes de matière facilement déformable.According to another embodiment of the invention, the complex is constituted by the assembly of a relatively thick ply sandwiched between two plies of easily deformable material.

La nappe de matière facilement déformable est avantageusement choisie parmi les nappes minces telles que les tissus, les tricots, les voiles de non-tissés et les nappes plastiques et l'autre nappe est choisie parmi les matières souples peu déformables, d'épaisseur supérieure à celle de la nappe déformable, telles que les mousses plastiques et les non-tissés épais.The sheet of easily deformable material is advantageously chosen from thin sheets such as fabrics, knits, fleeces of nonwovens and plastic sheets and the other sheet is chosen from flexible materials with little deformation, of thickness greater than that of the deformable sheet, such as plastic foams and thick nonwovens.

Le procédé d'obtention du produit selon l'invention consiste à réaliser une déformation oblique sur une bande de matière déformable comprise entre deux lignes par application sur ces deux lignes de forces ayant une direction parallèle à la direction générale de chacune desdites lignes, mais de sens opposé, de façon à créer sur cette bande un couple de torsion.The process for obtaining the product according to the invention consists in carrying out an oblique deformation on a strip of deformable material comprised between two lines by application to these two lines of force having a direction parallel to the general direction of each of said lines, but of opposite direction, so as to create a torque on this strip.

La permanence de la déformation oblique ainsi réalisée est obtenue par tous moyens de fixation appropriés, tels que la thermofixation dans le cas d'un tissu de polyester, ou la solidarisation de la matière déformée sur le second composant non déformé dans le cas d'un complexe.The permanence of the oblique deformation thus produced is obtained by any suitable fixing means, such as thermofixation in the case of a polyester fabric, or the joining of the deformed material to the second non-deformed component in the case of a complex.

Les couples de torsion créés sur deux bandes adjacentes sont avantageusement de sens opposé.The torques created on two adjacent bands are advantageously in opposite directions.

Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention, l'intensité du couple est variable selon les bandes, ce qui permet de communiquer à la bande une déformation plus ou moins forte.According to one embodiment of the invention, the intensity of the torque is variable depending on the bands, which makes it possible to communicate a more or less strong deformation to the band.

Les lignes d'application des forces correspondent avantageusement aux lignes de solidarisation de la nappe de matière déformable avec une nappe plus épaisse.The lines of application of the forces advantageously correspond to the lines for securing the sheet of deformable material with a thicker sheet.

Selon un mode de réalisation de l'invention, les lignes de solidarisation sont avantageusement rectilignes.According to one embodiment of the invention, the joining lines are advantageously rectilinear.

Selon un autre mode de réalisation, les lignes de solidarisation, non rectilignes, sont de direction générale rectiligne.According to another embodiment, the non-rectilinear joining lines are of rectilinear general direction.

La solidarisation des nappes est assurée, de façon connue, par couture, collage ou par thermosoudage et notamment par application de haute fréquence.The plies are joined together in a known manner by sewing, gluing or by heat-sealing and in particular by high frequency application.

L'invention sera mieux comprise d'ailleurs et ses avantages ressortiront bien de la description qui suit en référence au dessin schématique annexé dans lequel :

  • - Figure 1 est une vue en plan, avec arrachage partiel, du produit textile selon l'invention ;
  • - Figure 2 est un schéma explicatif du procédé d'obtention du produit textile ;
  • - Figure 3 est une vue schématique en perspective d'une installation pour la mise en oeuvre du procédé selon l'invention dans le cas où les forces de déformation sont appliquées dans le sens de la largeur de la nappe déformable ;
  • - Figures 4 à 8 explicitent les différentes étapes du fonctionnement de l'installation représentée à la figure 3 ;
  • - Figure 9 est une vue de dessus d'une installation pour la mise en oeuvre du procédé selon l'invention dans le cas où les forces de déformation sont appliquées dans le sens de la longueur de la nappe déformable.
The invention will also be better understood and its advantages will emerge clearly from the description which follows with reference to the appended schematic drawing in which:
  • - Figure 1 is a plan view, partially broken away, of the textile product according to the invention;
  • - Figure 2 is an explanatory diagram of the process for obtaining the textile product;
  • - Figure 3 is a schematic perspective view of an installation for implementing the method according to the invention in the case where the deformation forces are applied in the direction of the width of the deformable sheet;
  • - Figures 4 to 8 explain the different stages of operation of the installation shown in Figure 3;
  • - Figure 9 is a top view of an installation for implementing the method according to the invention in the case where the deformation forces are applied in the direction of the length of the deformable sheet.

Sur les figures (2) désigne, de façon générale, le produit selon l'invention, (3) la nappe de matière facilement déformable, (4) les lignes séparant les bandes et (5) lesdites bandes.In the figures (2) denotes, in general, the product according to the invention, (3) the sheet of easily deformable material, (4) the lines separating the strips and (5) said strips.

Le produit textile (2) est constitué d'au moins une nappe (3) de matière facilement déformable présentant des bandes (5) délimitées par des lignes sensiblement parallèles (4).The textile product (2) consists of at least one ply (3) of easily deformable material having bands (5) delimited by substantially parallel lines (4).

Selon l'invention, chaque bande (5) présente, par rapport aux lignes de délimitation (4), une déformation oblique et les déformations obliques situées de part et d'autre d'une même ligne (4) sont de sens opposé. Ces déformations obliques peuvent également être exercées dans le même sens sur une ou plusieurs bandes ; la déformation oblique en sens opposé se retrouvera alors sur le même nombre de bandes voisines.According to the invention, each strip (5) has, with respect to the delimitation lines (4), an oblique deformation and the oblique deformations located on either side of the same line (4) are in opposite directions. These oblique deformations can also be exerted in the same direction on one or more bands; the oblique deformation in the opposite direction will then be found on the same number of neighboring bands.

Sur le mode de réalisation représenté à la figure 1, le produit textile (2) selon l'invention est constitué de l'assemblage de deux nappes (3) et (6) et les lignes de délimitation (4) délimitant les bandes déformées obliquement (5) sur la nappe de matière facilement déformable (3) constituent également les lignes de solidarisation de l'assemblage des nappes (3) et (6).In the embodiment shown in FIG. 1, the textile product (2) according to the invention consists of the assembly of two plies (3) and (6) and the delimitation lines (4) delimiting the obliquely deformed bands (5) on the sheet of easily deformable material (3) also constitute the joining lines of the assembly of the sheets (3) and (6).

Cette solidarisation peut être effectuée, de façon connue en soi, par piqûre. Elle peut être également effectuée par tout autre procédé connu tel que le thermosoudage et par application de haute fréquence.This joining can be carried out, in a manner known per se, by injection. It can also be carried out by any other known method such as heat sealing and by application of high frequency.

La nappe (3) de matière facilement déformable peut être choisie parmi les tissus, les tricots, les voiles minces de non-tissé ou les nappes plastiques.The sheet (3) of easily deformable material can be chosen from fabrics, knitted fabrics, thin nonwoven webs or plastic sheets.

La nappe (6) présente une épaisseur supérieure à celle de la nappe (3) et est avantageusement choisie parmi les matières peu déformables telles que les feutres, les mousses plastiques ou tout autre produit similaire.The ply (6) has a thickness greater than that of the ply (3) and is advantageously chosen from materials that are not very deformable such as felts, plastic foams or any other similar product.

Il est également possible, sans sortir du cadre de l'invention, de prendre la nappe (6) de matière épaisse et peu déformable en sandwich entre deux nappes de matière plus légère, dont l'une au moins est facilement déformable et présente les bandes déformées obliquement (5).It is also possible, without departing from the scope of the invention, to take the ply (6) of thick, slightly deformable material sandwiched between two plies of lighter material, at least one of which is easily deformable and has the bands obliquely deformed (5).

Le procédé d'obtention du produit textile (2) selon l'invention est représenté de façon très schématique à la figure 2.The process for obtaining the textile product (2) according to the invention is shown very schematically in FIG. 2.

Selon ce procédé, la déformation oblique est réalisée par application sur une bande (5) de matière déformable comprise entre deux lignes adjacentes (4a, 4b), de forces F1, F2 ayant une direction parallèle à la direction générale de chacune de ces lignes, mais de sens opposé, de façon à créer sur ladite bande (5) un couple de torsion.According to this method, the oblique deformation is carried out by application to a strip (5) of deformable material comprised between two adjacent lines (4a, 4b), of forces F 1 , F 2 having a direction parallel to the general direction of each of these lines, but in opposite directions, so as to create on said strip (5) a torque.

Les couples de torsion exercés sur deux bandes adjacentes sont de sens opposé comme on le voit nettement sur la figure 2 pour les bandes (5a), (5b), (5c).The torques exerted on two adjacent bands are in opposite directions as can be clearly seen in FIG. 2 for the bands (5a), (5b), (5c).

Dans le cas où les forces F1 et F'1 exercées sur les lignes (4a) et (4c) d'une part et F2 et F'2 exercées sur les lignes (4b) et (4d) d'autre part sont les mêmes, la déformation oblique et de sens opposé exercée sur les bandes adjacentes (5a), (5b), (5c) sera essentiellement la même.In the case where the forces F 1 and F ' 1 exerted on the lines (4a) and (4c) on the one hand and F 2 and F' 2 exerted on the lines (4b) and (4d) on the other hand are the same, the oblique and opposite direction deformation exerted on the adjacent strips (5a), (5b), (5c) will be essentially the same.

Si, par contre, on fait varier l'intensité des forces F1 et F'1 exercées sur les lignes (4a) et (4c) d'une part et F2 et F'2 exercées sur les lignes (4b) et (4d) d'autre part, la déformation oblique exercée sur les bandes (5a), (5b), (5c) sera plus ou moins forte : on peut ainsi accentuer l'originalité de l'aspect du motif obtenu.If, on the other hand, the intensity of the forces F 1 and F ' 1 exerted on the lines (4a) and (4c) is varied on the one hand and F 2 and F' 2 exerted on the lines (4b) and ( 4d) on the other hand, the oblique deformation exerted on the bands (5a), (5b), (5c) will be more or less strong: one can thus accentuate the originality of the aspect of the pattern obtained.

Sur le mode de réalisation représenté au dessin, les lignes (4) sur lesquelles sont appliquées les forces de direction opposée constituent également les lignes de solidarisation de l'assemblage de la nappe de matière déformable (3) et de la nappe plus épaisse (6). Cette opération de solidarisation, effectuée par tout moyen connu en soi, tel que couture, thermosoudage, est effectuée, de préférence, immédiatement après l'opération de déformation oblique. Les deux opérations de déformation oblique et de solidarisation peuvent aussi être réalisées simultanément.In the embodiment shown in the drawing, the lines (4) on which the opposite direction forces are applied also constitute the lines for securing the assembly of the sheet of deformable material (3) and the thicker sheet (6 ). This joining operation, carried out by any means known per se, such as sewing, heat sealing, is preferably carried out immediately after the oblique deformation operation. The two oblique deformation and joining operations can also be carried out simultaneously.

Enfin, sur le mode de réalisation représenté au dessin, les lignes de solidarisation (4) sont rectilignes ; dans le cadre de l'invention, ces lignes peuvent également ne pas être rectilignes mais elles doivent conserver une direction générale rectiligne.Finally, in the embodiment shown in the drawing, the securing lines (4) are rectilinear; in the context of the invention, these lines may also not be rectilinear but they must maintain a general rectilinear direction.

L'installation représentée à la figure 3 est prévue pour fabriquer un produit selon l'invention par application des forces de déformation dans le sens de la largeur de la nappe déformable (3), dans laquelle est réalisé le produit (2), la fixation de la déformation oblique étant obtenue par couture de la nappe déformée sur une deuxième nappe (6) non déformée.The installation shown in FIG. 3 is provided for manufacturing a product according to the invention by applying deformation forces in the direction of the width of the deformable ply (3), in which the product (2) is made, the fixing oblique deformation being obtained by sewing the deformed ply on a second non-deformed ply (6).

La nappe de matière facilement déformable (3) et la nappe complémentaire (6) se présentent sous forme de pièces enroulées sur des mandrins respectivement (7) et (8).The sheet of easily deformable material (3) and the complementary sheet (6) are in the form of parts wound on mandrels (7) and (8) respectively.

L'installation comprend de façon classique des moyens de déroulement et d'enroulement des nappes (3) et (6) et du produit fini (2), des moyens de solidarisation et des moyens d'application des forces de déformation.The installation conventionally comprises means for unwinding and winding the sheets (3) and (6) and the finished product (2), means for securing and means for applying the deformation forces.

Les moyens de déroulement et d'enroulement sont constitués par des mandrins (7), (8) et (9) montés sur des axes rotatifs. La rotation de ces trois axes est synchronisée.The unwinding and winding means are constituted by mandrels (7), (8) and (9) mounted on rotary axes. The rotation of these three axes is synchronized.

Les moyens de solidarisation sont constitués d'une machine à coudre (10) équipée d'un dispositif de déplacement transversal sur toute la largeur de la nappe (3). (non représenté sur le dessin).The securing means consist of a sewing machine (10) equipped with a transverse displacement device over the entire width of the ply (3). (not shown in the drawing).

Les moyens d'application des forces de déformation comprennent, d'une part, un dispositif de blocage de la première ligne, consistant en un plateau fixe (11) placé sous la nappe (6) et en une barre (12) mobile verticalement, placée au-dessus de la nappe (2) en aval de la machine à coudre (10) dans le sens de la flèche S qui illustre la direction d'avancement du produit (2). Ils comprennent, d'autre part, un dispositif (13) de déplacement transversal de la nappe (3).The means for applying the deformation forces comprise, on the one hand, a device for blocking the first line, consisting of a fixed plate (11) placed under the sheet (6) and a bar (12) movable vertically, placed above the web (2) downstream of the sewing machine (10) in the direction of arrow S which illustrates the direction of advancement of the product (2). They comprise, on the other hand, a device (13) for transverse displacement of the ply (3).

Dans le mode de réalisation représenté à la figure 3, ce dispositif (13) est un vérin, dont le bras coïncide avec l'axe de rotation sur lequel est monté le mandrin (7), et dont la course correspond aux déplacements extrêmes que l'on souhaite donner à la nappe (3).In the embodiment shown in FIG. 3, this device (13) is a jack, the arm of which coincides with the axis of rotation on which the mandrel (7) is mounted, and the stroke of which corresponds to the extreme displacements that l '' we want to give to the tablecloth (3).

L'installation représentée à la figure 3 fonctionne de façon discontinue selon un cycle d'étapes répétitives illustrées aux figures 4 à 8.The installation shown in Figure 3 operates discontinuously according to a cycle of repetitive steps illustrated in Figures 4 to 8.

Dans l'étape illustrée à la figure 4, une opération de solidarisation vient de s'achever ; la machine à coudre (10) est en bout de course latéralement d'un côté du produit (2) : la nappe (3) est décalée obliquement par rapport à la nappe complémentaire (6), soit vers la droite par rapport au sens de la flèche S. Dans cette première étape de fabrication, le dispositif (13) de déplacement entraîne la nappe (3) à se déplacer dans le sens de la flèche G, jusqu'à ce que ladite nappe (3) se superpose à l'autre nappe (6).In the step illustrated in Figure 4, a joining operation has just been completed; the sewing machine (10) is at the end of its travel laterally on one side of the product (2): the ply (3) is offset obliquely to the complementary ply (6), that is to the right with respect to the direction of arrow S. In this first manufacturing step, the movement device (13) causes the sheet (3) to move in the direction of arrow G, until said sheet (3) is superimposed on the other tablecloth (6).

Dans la deuxième étape (figure 5), les deux nappes (3) et (6) et le produit (2) avancent de la même longueur L grâce à la rotation synchronisée des axes supportant les mandrins (7), (8) et (9), la longueur L correspondant à la distance entre deux lignes de solidarisation et, dans ce cas, à la largeur d'une bande présentant une déformation oblique.In the second step (Figure 5), the two plies (3) and (6) and the product (2) advance by the same length L thanks to the synchronized rotation of the axes supporting the mandrels (7), (8) and ( 9), the length L corresponding to the distance between two joining lines and, in this case, to the width of a strip having an oblique deformation.

Dans la troisième étape (figure 6), la barre de blocage (12) descend et s'applique sur le produit (2) au niveau de la ligne (14) de couture qui a été réalisée dans le cycle précédent.In the third step (Figure 6), the blocking bar (12) descends and is applied to the product (2) at the level of the seam line (14) which was produced in the previous cycle.

Dans la quatrième étape (figure 7), le dispositif (13) entraîne la nappe (3) à se déplacer transversalement dans le sens de la flèche G.In the fourth step (Figure 7), the device (13) causes the web (3) to move transversely in the direction of the arrow G.

Enfin, dans la cinquième étape (figure 8), la machine à coudre (10) traverse transversalement la pièce (2) et effectue la solidarisation par couture des nappes (3) et (6) le long d'une ligne (15) éloignée de la précédente (14) de la longueur L.Finally, in the fifth step (Figure 8), the sewing machine (10) crosses the piece (2) transversely and performs the joining by sewing of the plies (3) and (6) along a distant line (15) of the previous one (14) of length L.

La succession des cinq étapes constitue un cycle élémentaire de la fabrication du produit (2), correspondant à la réalisation de la déformation oblique dans une bande donnée comprise entre deux lignes parallèles. Si l'on désire obtenir un produit (2) dont l'aspect est régulier, du type chevron illustré à la figure 1, il suffit de répéter exactement les cycles élémentaires précités en respectant le même réglage quant à la longueur L et aux déplacements transversaux du dispositif (13), mais en altemant le sens de la flèche G d'un cycle à l'autre.The succession of the five stages constitutes an elementary cycle of the manufacture of the product (2), corresponding to the realization of the oblique deformation in a given strip lying between two parallel lines. If one wishes to obtain a product (2) whose appearance is regular, of the chevron type illustrated in FIG. 1, it suffices to repeat the abovementioned elementary cycles exactly, respecting the same adjustment as for the length L and the transverse displacements. of the device (13), but by altering the direction of the arrow G from one cycle to another.

L'aspect du produit (2) peut, bien entendu, être modifié à volonté par modification des réglages de la longueur L et des déplacements transversaux du dispositif (13).The appearance of the product (2) can, of course, be modified at will by modifying the settings of the length L and the transverse displacements of the device (13).

L'installation représentée à la figure 9 est prévue pour fabriquer un produit (2) par application des forces de déformation dans le sens de la longueur de la nappe déformable dans laquelle on réalise le produit. Elle est particulièrement adaptée aux produits (2) sous forme de complexe dans lesquels la nappe complémentaire (6) est un matériau extensible.The installation shown in FIG. 9 is provided for manufacturing a product (2) by applying deformation forces in the direction of the length of the deformable sheet in which the product is produced. It is particularly suitable for products (2) in the form of a complex in which the complementary ply (6) is an extensible material.

Les moyens de déroulement et d'enroulement sont essentiellement du même type que ceux décrits dans l'installation précédente. Toutefois, l'axe de rotation supportant le mandrin (7) autour duquel est enroulée la nappe déformable (3) n'est pas mobile transversalement.The unwinding and winding means are essentially of the same type as those described in the previous installation. However, the axis of rotation supporting the mandrel (7) around which the deformable sheet (3) is wound is not transversely movable.

L'installation comporte un système (16) élargisseur de la nappe extensible (6) équipé de picots de guidage ou de pinces saisissant les lisières de la nappe (6). La largeur au repos de la nappe (6) étant inférieure à celle de la nappe (3), le système élargisseur (16) porte en extension transversale la nappe (6) depuis le mandrin (8) jusqu'à un premier ensemble de solidarisation (17) où les deux nappes (3) et (6) ont la même largeur.The installation comprises a system (16) for expanding the extendable sheet (6) equipped with guide pins or clamps gripping the edges of the sheet (6). The width at rest of the ply (6) being less than that of the ply (3), the enlarging system (16) carries the ply (6) in transverse extension from the mandrel (8) to a first assembly for securing (17) where the two plies (3) and (6) have the same width.

Dans le cas où la nappe extensible (6) est une nappe de fibres, le système élargisseur (16) peut avantageusement comporter plusieurs chaînes de picots dont les chemins divergent vers les têtes de couture (18) du premier ensemble de solidarisation (17).In the case where the extensible ply (6) is a ply of fibers, the enlarging system (16) may advantageously comprise several chains of pins whose paths diverge towards the sewing heads (18) of the first assembly of attachment (17).

L'installation représentée à la figure 9 comporte deux ensembles de solidarisation (17) et (19).The installation shown in Figure 9 includes two securing assemblies (17) and (19).

Le premier ensemble (17) dispose d'un nombre n de têtes de couture, tel que : N = 2 n - 1, N étant le nombre total de lignes de solidarisation souhaité sur la largeur du produit (2) et étant obligatoirement un nombre impair.The first set (17) has a number n of sewing heads, such that: N = 2 n - 1, N being the total number of securing lines desired over the width of the product (2) and being necessarily a number odd.

Le second ensemble de solidarisation (19) dispose d'un nombre n' de têtes de couture (23), tel que : N = 2 n' + 1.The second connection assembly (19) has a number n 'of sewing heads (23), such that: N = 2 n' + 1.

Devant l'ensemble de solidarisation (19) est disposé un moyen (20) d'application des forces de déformation, s'exerçant en repoussant, la nappe (3) vers l'amont, selon une ligne située entre deux lignes (21) et (22) adjacentes de couture.In front of the joining assembly (19) is disposed a means (20) for applying the deformation forces, acting by pushing back, the ply (3) upstream, along a line located between two lines (21) and (22) adjacent seams.

Le moyen (20) comporte autant d'organes actifs (24) qu'il y a de têtes de couture (23), chacun de ces organes étant placé devant une tête de couture (23).The means (20) comprises as many active members (24) as there are sewing heads (23), each of these members being placed in front of a sewing head (23).

Il est prévu entre les deux ensembles de solidarisation (17) et (19) un système de contrôle en largeur du complexe sortant du premier ensemble (17) jusqu'à l'entrée dans le second (19) ou la nappe extensible aura retrouvé sa largeur normale au repos.There is provided between the two fastening assemblies (17) and (19) a system for controlling the width of the complex leaving the first assembly (17) until entering the second (19) where the extensible sheet will have regained its normal width at rest.

Dans l'installation représentée à la figure 9, la nappe (6) maintenue en extension par le système élargisseur (16), et la nappe déformable (3) sont réunies par couture à raison de n lignes de coutures parallèles lors de leur passage dans l'ensemble (17). A la sortie de cet ensemble (17) et jusqu'à l'introduction dans l'ensemble suivant (19), la nappe extensible (6) reprend sa largeur au repos et entraîne dans ce retrait la nappe déformable (3) qui lui est liée selon les lignes de couture. Ainsi à l'introduction de l'ensemble (19), la nappe (3) comporte dans l'espace s'étendant entre deux lignes (21) et (22) de couture un excès de matière par rapport à la nappe (6). C'est cet excès de matière que l'organe actif (24) va repousser vers l'amont le long de la nappe (6), créant ainsi la déformation oblique selon l'invention, avant le passage sous la tête de couture (23), qui fixe ladite déformation selon les lignes de couture (25).In the installation shown in FIG. 9, the ply (6) held in extension by the enlarging system (16), and the deformable ply (3) are joined by sewing at the rate of n parallel seam lines when they pass through the assembly (17). At the exit of this assembly (17) and until the introduction into the following assembly (19), the extensible ply (6) resumes its width at rest and causes in this withdrawal the deformable ply (3) which is tied along the seam lines. Thus at the introduction of the assembly (19), the ply (3) comprises in the space extending between two lines (21) and (22) of seam an excess of material relative to the web (6). It is this excess of material that the active member (24) will push upstream along the web (6), thus creating the oblique deformation according to the invention, before passing under the sewing head (23 ), which fixes said deformation along the seam lines (25).

Dans le cas où la nappe complémentaire (6) n'est pas réalisée en un matériau extensible, on remplace, dans l'installation représentée à la figure 9, le système élargisseur (16) par un système de guidage déformant, destiné à donner à la nappe (3) une forme non plate lors de son passage entre les têtes de couture (18) du premier ensemble de solidarisation (17).In the case where the complementary ply (6) is not made of an extensible material, in the installation shown in FIG. 9, the enlarging system (16) is replaced by a deforming guide system, intended to give to the ply (3) a non-flat shape during its passage between the sewing heads (18) of the first fastening assembly (17).

Ce système de guidage est composé, par exemple, d'un jeu de roulettes de diamètres différents (non représentées) entre lesquelles passe la nappe (3) ; on communique ainsi à celle-ci sur toute sa largeur une forme ondulée, la couture étant réalisée sur la partie basse de l'ondulation, en contact avec la nappe complémentaire (6).This guidance system is composed, for example, of a set of rollers of different diameters (not shown) between which the web (3) passes; a wavy shape is communicated to the latter over its entire width, the seam being produced on the lower part of the corrugation, in contact with the complementary ply (6).

Dans les exemples de réalisation décrits ci- avant, la fixation de la déformation oblique du produit (2) est effectuée par l'intermédiaire de la : solidarisation de la nappe déformable (3) sur une autre nappe (6).In the embodiments described above, the oblique deformation of the product (2) is fixed by means of: securing the deformable ply (3) to another ply (6).

Il est bien évident que ces exemples ne limitent pas la portée de l'invention ; en particulier, la fixation de la déformation oblique du produit (2) réalisé à partir d'une seule nappe pourra être obtenue, par exemple, dans le cas d'un tissu de polyester, par une opération de thermofixation destinée à rendre permanente la déformation obtenue selon le procédé de l'invention. Ceci peut être réalisé sur l'installation illustrée à la figure 3 en remplaçant la machine à coudre par une plaque chauffante s'appliquant sur la longueur L de tissu correspondant à une bande donnée.It is obvious that these examples do not limit the scope of the invention; in particular, the fixing of the oblique deformation of the product (2) produced from a single ply may be obtained, for example, in the case of a polyester fabric, by a heat-fixing operation intended to make the deformation permanent obtained according to the method of the invention. This can be achieved on the installation illustrated in FIG. 3 by replacing the sewing machine with a heating plate applied to the length L of fabric corresponding to a given strip.

Claims (16)

1. Textile product formed by at least one continuous layer of readily deformable material having strips bounded by substantially parallel lines, characterized in that each strip (5) of the readily deformable layer (3) has an oblique deformation with the respect to the boundary lines (4) and in that at least some of these oblique deformations are opposed in an alternating manner.
2. Textile product as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that it is a composite formed by the assembly of at least two layers (3, 6) and in that the substantially parallel lines (4) bounding the strips (5) on the layer (3) of readily deformable material also form the lines joining the layer assembly.
3. Textile product as claimed in claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the composite is formed by the assembly of a relatively thick layer sandwiched between two layers of readily deformable material.
4. Textile product as claimed in claims 2 and 3, characterized in that the layer (3) of readily deformable material is selected from thin layers such as fabrics, knitted fabrics, nonwoven webs and plastic sheets and in that the other layer (6) is selected from flexible materials which are difficult to deform and thicker than the deformable layer such as plastic foams and thick nonwovens.
5. Method of obtaining the product as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it consists in providing an oblique deformation on a strip of a continuous layer of deformable material comprised between two lines (4a, 4b) by applying to these two lines forces (F1, F2) having a direction parallel to the general direction of each of these lines, but of opposite direction, so as to create a torsional couple on this strip.
6. Method as claimed in claim 5, characterized in that the torsional couples created on two adjacent strips (5a, 5b) are of opposite direction.
7. Method as claimed in claims 5 and 6, characterized in that the intensity of the couple can be varied for different strips allowing the strip to be provided with a lighter or heavier deformation.
8. Method as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 7, characterized in that the lines of application of the forces correspond to the lines joining the layer of deformable material to a thicker layer.
9. Method as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 8, characterized in that the joining operation for the layers is carried out immediately after the provision of the oblique deformation.
10. Method as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 9, characterized in that the joining lines are rectilinear.
11. Method as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 9, characterized in that the non-rectilinear joining lines are of a general rectilinear direction.
12. Plant for the implementation of the method as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 11, characterized in that it comprises means for winding and unwinding at least one sheet of material, means for applying forces of deformation and means for fixing the oblique deformation.
13. Plant as claimed in claim 12, characterized in that the means for winding and unwinding are tubes (7, 8, 9) mounted on rotary shafts and in that the means for applying the forces of deformation comprise a fixed member (11) cooperating with a vertically movable bar (12) associated with a device (13) for the transverse displacement of the layer (3).
14. Plant as claimed in claim 12, characterized in that the means for winding and unwinding are tubes (7, 8, 9) mounted on rotary shafts and in that the means (20) for applying the forces of deformation are formed by an assembly of operative components (24) forcing the layer (3) back upstream and disposed in front of the means for fixing the oblique deformation (23).
15. Plant as claimed in claims 13 and 14, characterized in that the means for fixing the oblique deformation are formed by heating elements.
16. Plant as claimed in claims 13 and 14, characterized in that the means for fixing the oblique deformation are formed by devices simultaneously joining the layer of readily deformable material (3) to another layer (6) by sewing.
EP19860902839 1985-04-30 1986-04-30 Textile product presenting obliquely deformed bands, obtention method and installation for implementing said method Expired EP0221121B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8506881A FR2581090B1 (en) 1985-04-30 1985-04-30 TEXTILE PRODUCT HAVING OBLIQUE DEFORMED STRIPS AND PROCESS FOR PRODUCING THE SAME
FR8506881 1985-04-30

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0221121A1 EP0221121A1 (en) 1987-05-13
EP0221121B1 true EP0221121B1 (en) 1989-07-19

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19860902839 Expired EP0221121B1 (en) 1985-04-30 1986-04-30 Textile product presenting obliquely deformed bands, obtention method and installation for implementing said method

Country Status (4)

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EP (1) EP0221121B1 (en)
DE (1) DE3664497D1 (en)
FR (1) FR2581090B1 (en)
WO (1) WO1986006422A1 (en)

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1471398A (en) * 1966-03-10 1967-03-03 Meca Meccanotecnica Cassanese Lined padded fabric and manufacturing process
FR2145244A5 (en) * 1971-07-06 1973-02-16 Slumberland Group Ltd Padded bedding - such as quilts have improved cushioning with cheaper stuffing material
FR2344239A1 (en) * 1976-03-16 1977-10-14 Model Couture Isothermic garment for physical exercise - with parallel folds perpendicular to elastic threads
DE3304343C1 (en) * 1983-02-09 1984-06-14 Daimler-Benz Ag, 7000 Stuttgart Multi-needle sewing machine for topstitching pipes from seat covers

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DE3664497D1 (en) 1989-08-24
WO1986006422A1 (en) 1986-11-06
FR2581090A1 (en) 1986-10-31
FR2581090B1 (en) 1987-12-31
EP0221121A1 (en) 1987-05-13

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