EP0119535A1 - Two-way elastic warp knit article and method of manufacture - Google Patents

Two-way elastic warp knit article and method of manufacture Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0119535A1
EP0119535A1 EP84102347A EP84102347A EP0119535A1 EP 0119535 A1 EP0119535 A1 EP 0119535A1 EP 84102347 A EP84102347 A EP 84102347A EP 84102347 A EP84102347 A EP 84102347A EP 0119535 A1 EP0119535 A1 EP 0119535A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
knitted fabric
warp knitted
elastic warp
elastane
yarn
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Granted
Application number
EP84102347A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0119535B1 (en
Inventor
Harald Ing.-Grad. Baesgen
Helmut Schillings
Ernst Berg
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Bayer AG
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Bayer AG
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Priority to AT84102347T priority Critical patent/ATE21419T1/en
Publication of EP0119535A1 publication Critical patent/EP0119535A1/en
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Publication of EP0119535B1 publication Critical patent/EP0119535B1/en
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/18Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a bi-elastic warp knitted fabric with a balanced behavior of the elastic forces in the longitudinal and transverse directions.
  • warp threads (approx. 5 to 50% by weight) can be elastane yarns which give the knitted fabric elastic properties.
  • Highly elastic articles such as corsetry and swimsuits can be made from such elastic knitwear. (Bela von Falkai, synthetic fibers, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, Deerfield Beach, Florida; Basel, 1981, pp. 189 to 190 and 348 to 351).
  • a disadvantage of the elastic warp knitted fabrics produced with the help of warp threads from elastane yarns is that a balanced behavior of the elastic forces of the knitted fabric in the transverse and longitudinal directions cannot be achieved. This is independent of the ratio in which the elastane yarns to the other yarns, hereinafter referred to as hard fiber yarns, are used.
  • the invention therefore relates to a bi-elastic warp knitted fabric, characterized by thread loops made of elastane yarn that are horizontally incorporated into the loops of the basic warp knitted fabric. These thread loops are preferably hanging together.
  • the basic warp knitted fabric preferably consists exclusively of hard fiber yarns.
  • the bi-elastic warp knitted fabric according to the invention offers a further advantage in terms of production, since, compared to conventional elastic warp knitted fabrics, the parallel, longitudinal elastane yarns are eliminated, so that the costly and costly warping of the Elasthane yarns for elastane yarn part warp trees are omitted and the elastane yarns for processing as weft yarn, which is formed into thread loops, preferably into interlocking thread loops, can be pulled off simple bobbins.
  • Elastane yarns are preferably used which have an extensibility of at least 250%, preferably 450 to 650%, in particular those with titers of 10 to 960 dtex, preferably 33 to 480 dtex.
  • Bare elastane filament yarns but also wrapped or wound elastane filament yarns can be used. Bare spandex filament yarns are preferred.
  • the knitted fabric according to the invention is produced by guiding the elastane yarn drawn off the spool as a weft thread during the stitch formation process in the catching or laying position under the needle tips, whereby thread loops are formed when knocking off. This can be done manually on all warp knitting machines, such as warp knitting machines, Raschel machines and crochet gallon machines, or mechanically after appropriate conversion.
  • the new technology can be used for all types of warp knitting.
  • weft threads in warp knitted fabrics is already known with hard fiber yarns and elastane yarns, but has so far been carried out in a fundamentally different way and for a different purpose.
  • the weft threads made of hard fiber yarns do not take part in the stitch formation and are intended to give the knitted fabric a stability corresponding to the woven fabric. For this reason, they are inserted smoothly between the needle stitch and the sinker stitch.
  • Knitted fabrics made of hard fiber yarns with weft threads made of elastane yarn inserted smoothly between needle and plate meshes are not used, since the smoothly inserted weft threads in the knitted fabric are not sufficiently integrated.
  • Such a knitted fabric would only be elastic in one direction. Smoothly inserted weft threads made of elastane yarns are therefore only used in combination with warp threads made of elastane yarns, which, however, should be avoided if possible according to the invention.
  • Fig. 1 shows a warp knitted fabric according to the invention with simple laying.
  • (1) denotes the longitudinal warp threads made of hard fiber yarns.
  • the more solid lines (2) and (3) denote two weft threads made of elastane yarn, which are included in the stitch formation.
  • Fig. 2 shows a warp knitted fabric of the same laying with weft threads (4) and (5) made of hard fiber yarns to improve the surface stability of the knitted fabric. (1) again designates the warp threads made of hard fiber yarns.
  • Fig. 3 shows a warp knitted fabric of the same type, in which the warp threads (6) and (7) are elastane yarns. (1) again designates the warp threads made of hard fiber yarns.
  • a product with 48 courses / cm and 25 wales / cm is obtained, which has a weight per unit area of 230 g / m 2 .
  • the elasticity in the longitudinal direction is 220%, the elasticity in the transverse direction is 250%.
  • the percentage by weight of elastane is 50%.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

A bielastic warp-knit fabric with balanced behavior of the elastic forces in the longitudinal and transverse directions is obtained by guiding elasthane yarn as weft thread under the needle points in the tuck or laying position during the stitch-forming process, so that loops are formed during knocking-over.

Description

Gegenstand der Erfindung ist eine bi-elastische Kettenwirkware mit ausgewogenem Verhalten der elastischen Kräfte in Längs- und Querrichtung.The invention relates to a bi-elastic warp knitted fabric with a balanced behavior of the elastic forces in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

Im Gegensatz zur Weberei, wo die Gewebe aus rechtwinklig miteinander verkreuzten Fadensystemen gebildet werden, werden bei der Kettenwirkerei nebeneinander liegende, in Längsrichtung verlaufende Kettfäden miteinander zu Maschen verschlungen. Dies geschieht auf Kettenwirkma- schinen, Raschelmaschinen und Häkelgalonmaschinen.In contrast to weaving, where the fabrics are formed from thread systems crossed at right angles to one another, warp knitting in the warp knitting side-by-side runs in the longitudinal direction are looped together. This is done on Kettenwirkma - machines, raschel and crochet.

Ein Teil der Kettfäden (ca. 5 bis 50 Gew.-%) können Elasthangarne sein, die der Wirkware elastische Eigenschaften verleihen. Aus solchen elastischen Wirkwaren lassen sich hochelastische Artikel wie Miederwaren und Badeanzüge herstellen. (Bela von Falkai, Synthesefasern, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, Deerfield Beach, Florida; Basel, 1981, S. 189 bis 190 und 348 bis 351).Some of the warp threads (approx. 5 to 50% by weight) can be elastane yarns which give the knitted fabric elastic properties. Highly elastic articles such as corsetry and swimsuits can be made from such elastic knitwear. (Bela von Falkai, synthetic fibers, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, Deerfield Beach, Florida; Basel, 1981, pp. 189 to 190 and 348 to 351).

Ein Nachteil der mit Hife von Kettfäden aus Elasthangarnen hergestellten elastischen Kettenwirkwaren ist, daß kein ausgewogenes Verhalten der elastischen Kräfte der Wirkware in Quer- und Längsrichtung erreichbar ist. Dies ist unabhängig davon, in welchem Verhältnis die Elasthangarne zu den übrigen Garnen, nachfolgend Hartfasergarne genannt, eingesetzt werden.A disadvantage of the elastic warp knitted fabrics produced with the help of warp threads from elastane yarns is that a balanced behavior of the elastic forces of the knitted fabric in the transverse and longitudinal directions cannot be achieved. This is independent of the ratio in which the elastane yarns to the other yarns, hereinafter referred to as hard fiber yarns, are used.

Es wurde nun überraschend gefunden, daß sich eine bi-elastische Kettenwirkware mit ausgewogenem Verhalten der elastischen Kräfte in Längs- und Querrichtung herstellen läßt, wenn man quer zur Gewirkebahn laufende Schußfäden aus Elasthangarn mit Hilfe der Nadelhaken und der Abschlag- bzw. Einschließplatinen zu Fadenschleifen umformt und diese in das Grundkettengewirke aus Hartfasergarn einbindet.It has now surprisingly been found that a bi-elastic warp knitted fabric with a balanced behavior of the elastic forces in the longitudinal and transverse directions can be produced if weft threads made of elastane yarn running transversely to the knitting web are formed into thread loops with the aid of the needle hooks and the knock-off or including sinkers and integrates them into the basic warp knit made of hard fiber yarn.

Gegenstand der Erfindung ist daher eine bi-elastische Kettenwirkware, gekennzeichnet durch in die Maschen des Grundkettengewirkes horizontal eingebundene Fadenschleifen aus Elasthangarn. Diese Fadenschleifen sind vorzugsweise eineinander hängend.The invention therefore relates to a bi-elastic warp knitted fabric, characterized by thread loops made of elastane yarn that are horizontally incorporated into the loops of the basic warp knitted fabric. These thread loops are preferably hanging together.

Das Grundkettengewirke besteht vorzugsweise ausschließlich aus Hartfasergarnen. Für diesen Fall bietet die erfindungsgemäße bi-elastische Kettenwirkware einen weiteren fertigungstechnischen Vorteil, da gegenüber herkömmlichen elastischen Kettenwirkwaren die parallelen, in Längsrichtung verlaufenden Elasthangarne wegfallen, so daß das aufwendige und kostenintensive Schären der Elasthangarne zu Elasthangarnteilkettbäumen entfällt und die Elasthangarne zur Verarbeitung als Schußgarn, welches zu Fadenschleifen, vorzugsweise zu ineinanderhängenden Fadenschleifen geformt wird, von einfachen Spulen abgezogen werden können.The basic warp knitted fabric preferably consists exclusively of hard fiber yarns. In this case, the bi-elastic warp knitted fabric according to the invention offers a further advantage in terms of production, since, compared to conventional elastic warp knitted fabrics, the parallel, longitudinal elastane yarns are eliminated, so that the costly and costly warping of the Elasthane yarns for elastane yarn part warp trees are omitted and the elastane yarns for processing as weft yarn, which is formed into thread loops, preferably into interlocking thread loops, can be pulled off simple bobbins.

Vorzugsweise werden Elasthangarne eingesetzt, die eine Dehnbarkeit von mindestens 250 %, vorzugsweise 450 bis 650 % aufweisen, insbesondere solche mit Titern von 10 bis 960 dtex, vorzugsweise 33 bis 480 dtex.Elastane yarns are preferably used which have an extensibility of at least 250%, preferably 450 to 650%, in particular those with titers of 10 to 960 dtex, preferably 33 to 480 dtex.

Es können blanke Elasthanfilamentgarne, aber auch umwundene oder umsponnene Elasthanfilamentgarne eingesetzt werden. Bevorzugt sind blanke Elasthanfilamentgarne.Bare elastane filament yarns, but also wrapped or wound elastane filament yarns can be used. Bare spandex filament yarns are preferred.

Die erfindungsgemäße Wirkware wird hergestellt, indem das von der Spule abgezogene Elasthangarn als Schußfaden beim Maschenbildungsvorgang in der Fang- oder der Legestellung unter die Nadelspitzen geführt wird, wodurch beim Abschlagen Fadenschleifen gebildet werden. Dies kann auf allen Wirkmaschinen, wie Kettenwirkmaschinen, Raschelmaschinen und Häkelgalonmaschinen manuell oder nach entsprechender Umrüstung maschinell geschehen.The knitted fabric according to the invention is produced by guiding the elastane yarn drawn off the spool as a weft thread during the stitch formation process in the catching or laying position under the needle tips, whereby thread loops are formed when knocking off. This can be done manually on all warp knitting machines, such as warp knitting machines, Raschel machines and crochet gallon machines, or mechanically after appropriate conversion.

Die neue Technik ist bei allen Legungen der Kettenwirkerei anwendbar.The new technology can be used for all types of warp knitting.

Das Einführen von Schußfäden in Kettengewirke ist zwar mit Hartfasergarnen und Elasthangarnen schon bekannt, wurde aber bisher in grundsätzlich anderer Weise und zu einem anderen Zweck durchgeführt.The introduction of weft threads in warp knitted fabrics is already known with hard fiber yarns and elastane yarns, but has so far been carried out in a fundamentally different way and for a different purpose.

Die Schußfäden aus Hartfasergarnen nehmen nämlich nicht an der Maschenbildung teil und sollen dem Gewirke eine der Webware entsprechende Stabilität geben. Sie werden aus diesem Grund zwischen Nadelmasche und Platinenmasche glatt eingelegt.The weft threads made of hard fiber yarns do not take part in the stitch formation and are intended to give the knitted fabric a stability corresponding to the woven fabric. For this reason, they are inserted smoothly between the needle stitch and the sinker stitch.

Gewirke aus Hartfasergarnen mit zwischen Nadelmaschen und Platinenmaschen glatt eingelegten Schußfäden aus Elasthangarn finden keine Anwendung, da die glatt eingelegten Schußfäden im Gewirke keine genügende Einbindung erhalten. Ein solches Gewirke wäre nur in einer Richtung elastisch. Glatt eingelegte Schußfäden aus Elasthangarnen finden daher nur Verwendung in Kombination mit Kettfäden aus Elasthangarnen, die aber erfindungsgemäß möglichst vermieden werden sollten.Knitted fabrics made of hard fiber yarns with weft threads made of elastane yarn inserted smoothly between needle and plate meshes are not used, since the smoothly inserted weft threads in the knitted fabric are not sufficiently integrated. Such a knitted fabric would only be elastic in one direction. Smoothly inserted weft threads made of elastane yarns are therefore only used in combination with warp threads made of elastane yarns, which, however, should be avoided if possible according to the invention.

Fig. 1 zeigt eine erfindungsgemäße Kettenwirkware mit einfacher Legung. (1) bezeichnet dabei die in Längsrichtung verlaufenden Kettfäden aus Hartfasergarnen.Fig. 1 shows a warp knitted fabric according to the invention with simple laying. (1) denotes the longitudinal warp threads made of hard fiber yarns.

Die stärker ausgezogenen Linien (2) und (3) bezeichnen zwei Schußfäden aus Elastharngarn, die in die Maschenbildung einbezogen sind.The more solid lines (2) and (3) denote two weft threads made of elastane yarn, which are included in the stitch formation.

Fig. 2 zeigt eine Kettenwirkware gleicher Legung mit Schußfäden (4) und (5) aus Hartfasergarnen zur Verbesserung der Flächenstabilität der Wirkware. (1) bezeichnet wiederum die Kettfäden aus Hartfasergarnen.Fig. 2 shows a warp knitted fabric of the same laying with weft threads (4) and (5) made of hard fiber yarns to improve the surface stability of the knitted fabric. (1) again designates the warp threads made of hard fiber yarns.

Fig. 3 zeigt eine Kettenwirkware gleicher Legung, bei der die Kettfäden (6) und (7) Elasthangarne sind. (1) bezeichnet wiederum die Kettfäden aus Hartfasergarnen.Fig. 3 shows a warp knitted fabric of the same type, in which the warp threads (6) and (7) are elastane yarns. (1) again designates the warp threads made of hard fiber yarns.

Beispielexample

Auf einer Raschelmaschine in der Feinheit 64 E, 130" Arbeitsbreite wurde gemäß folgender technischer Beschreibung gearbeitet.A Raschel machine with a fineness of 64 E, 130 "working width was used in accordance with the following technical description.

Material: Legeschiene I Polyamidfilamentgarn
44 dtex f 10
Material: Laying rail I polyamide filament yarn
44 dtex f 10

Fadenzahl: Legeschiene I 4140 FädenNumber of threads: Laying rail I 4140 threads

Legung: Legeschiene I 4-6/2-4/4-2/2-4/0-2/
2-0/4-2/2-4/4-2/6-4//
Laying: Laying rail I 4-6 / 2-4 / 4-2 / 2-4 / 0-2 /
2-0 / 4-2 / 2-4 / 4-2 / 6-4 //

Material: Schußfaden zu Fadenschleifen umgeformt aus aus Elasthanfilamentgarn 160 dtex.Material: weft into thread loops formed from 160 dtex elastane filament yarn.

In jeder Maschenreihe wurde ein Elasthanfaden horizontal in die Maschenbildung einbezogen.In each row of stitches, an elastane thread was included horizontally in the stitch formation.

Rohmaschenzahl/cm: 27,4Number of raw stitches / cm: 27.4

Es wird eine Ware mit 48 Maschenreihen/cm und 25 Maschenstäbchen/cm erhalten, die ein Flächengewicht von 230 g/m2 aufweist.A product with 48 courses / cm and 25 wales / cm is obtained, which has a weight per unit area of 230 g / m 2 .

Die Elastizität in Längsrichtung beträgt 220 %, die Elastizität in Querrichtung beträgt 250 %.The elasticity in the longitudinal direction is 220%, the elasticity in the transverse direction is 250%.

Der Elasthan-Gewichtsanteil beträgt 50 %.The percentage by weight of elastane is 50%.

Claims (6)

1. Bi-elastische Kettenwirkware, gekennzeichnet durch in die Maschen des Grundkettengewirkes horizontal eingebundene Fadenschleifen aus Elasthangarn.1. Bi-elastic warp knitted fabric, characterized by thread loops made of elastane yarn that are horizontally integrated into the loops of the basic warp knit. 2. Bi-elastische Kettenwirkware nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Fadenschleifen aus Elasthangarn ineinanderhängend sind.2. Bi-elastic warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the thread loops made of elastane yarn are interlocking. 3. Bi-elastische Kettenwirkware nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Grundkettengewirke ausschließlich aus Hartfasergarnen besteht.3. Bi-elastic warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the basic warp knitted fabric consists exclusively of hard fiber yarns. 4. Bi-elastische Kettenwirkware nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Elasthangarn eine Dehnung von mindestens 250 % aufweist.4. Bi-elastic warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the elastane yarn has an elongation of at least 250%. 5. Bi-elastische Kettenwirkware nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Elasthangarn eine Dehnung von 450 bis 650 % und einen Titer von 10 bis 960 dtex aufweist.5. Bi-elastic warp knitted fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that the elastane yarn has an elongation of 450 to 650% and a titer of 10 to 960 dtex. 6. Verfahren zur Herstellung von bi-elastischer Kettenwirkware, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das von einer Spule abgezogene Elastharngarn als Schußfaden beim Maschenbildungsvorgang in der Fang- oder der Legestellung unter die Nadelspitzen geführt wird und beim Abschlagen Fadenschleifen gebildet werden.6. A process for the production of bi-elastic warp knitted fabric, characterized in that the elastharn yarn drawn off from a spool is guided as a weft thread during the stitch formation process in the catching or laying position under the needle tips and thread loops are formed when knocking off.
EP84102347A 1983-03-16 1984-03-05 Two-way elastic warp knit article and method of manufacture Expired EP0119535B1 (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
AT84102347T ATE21419T1 (en) 1983-03-16 1984-03-05 BI-ELASTIC WARP KNITTED FABRICS AND THEIR PRODUCTION.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE3309311 1983-03-16
DE3309311A DE3309311A1 (en) 1983-03-16 1983-03-16 BI-ELASTIC CHAINWEAR AND THEIR PRODUCTION

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EP0119535A1 true EP0119535A1 (en) 1984-09-26
EP0119535B1 EP0119535B1 (en) 1986-08-13

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EP84102347A Expired EP0119535B1 (en) 1983-03-16 1984-03-05 Two-way elastic warp knit article and method of manufacture

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US (2) US4817400A (en)
EP (1) EP0119535B1 (en)
JP (1) JPS59179852A (en)
KR (1) KR840007912A (en)
AT (1) ATE21419T1 (en)
DD (1) DD216489A5 (en)
DE (2) DE3309311A1 (en)
ES (1) ES8602986A1 (en)

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GB2233676A (en) * 1989-06-29 1991-01-16 Wrightwear Fabrics Limited Elastic warp-knit fabric
EP0826809A1 (en) * 1996-08-27 1998-03-04 Piave Industria Tessuti Elastici SpA Method to make elastic knitwear fabric and relative fabric

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GB8822637D0 (en) * 1988-09-27 1988-11-02 Gen Motors Corp Knitted fabric
US5657648A (en) * 1995-08-29 1997-08-19 Beech Island Knitting Company Elastic fabric and method of making same
US5596888A (en) * 1995-10-23 1997-01-28 Milliken Research Corporation Knitted furniture support fabric
US6722164B1 (en) * 1997-07-16 2004-04-20 Beech Island Knitting Company Elastic fabric and method of making same
US5899095A (en) * 1998-01-21 1999-05-04 Liberty Fabrics Jacquard fabric and method of manufacturing
US5994612A (en) * 1998-07-31 1999-11-30 Watkins; William Bruce Campbell Postoperative wound protection garment having improved elasticity, modulus and breathability
KR100385783B1 (en) * 1998-11-16 2003-06-02 아사히 가세이 가부시키가이샤 Two-way warp knitted fabric
FR2828382B1 (en) * 2001-08-10 2003-10-10 Juliette Bauduret INVISIBLE EDGE CLOTHING / UNDERWEAR
JP4609641B2 (en) * 2004-12-21 2011-01-12 株式会社川島織物セルコン Elastic warp knitted fabric
US8726700B2 (en) 2010-08-03 2014-05-20 Global Trademarks, Llc Fabric with equal modulus in multiple directions
US20120297840A1 (en) * 2011-05-24 2012-11-29 Solid Ally International Limited Warp knitted fabric and method of manufacturing the same
FR3015189B1 (en) * 2013-12-19 2016-05-20 Andre Avio CLOTHING ARTICLE SCULPTANT

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GB2233676B (en) * 1989-06-29 1993-04-14 Wrightwear Fabrics Limited Fabric
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US5832749A (en) * 1996-08-27 1998-11-10 Piave Industria Tessuti Elastici Spa Method to make elastic knitwear fabric and relative fabric

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JPS59179852A (en) 1984-10-12
EP0119535B1 (en) 1986-08-13
DD216489A5 (en) 1984-12-12
KR840007912A (en) 1984-12-11
ES530657A0 (en) 1985-12-01
US4909049A (en) 1990-03-20
DE3309311A1 (en) 1984-09-20
DE3460451D1 (en) 1986-09-18
JPH0130938B2 (en) 1989-06-22
ATE21419T1 (en) 1986-08-15
ES8602986A1 (en) 1985-12-01
US4817400A (en) 1989-04-04

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