EP0655095B1 - Textile material made of woven knitted fabrics - Google Patents

Textile material made of woven knitted fabrics Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0655095B1
EP0655095B1 EP93915639A EP93915639A EP0655095B1 EP 0655095 B1 EP0655095 B1 EP 0655095B1 EP 93915639 A EP93915639 A EP 93915639A EP 93915639 A EP93915639 A EP 93915639A EP 0655095 B1 EP0655095 B1 EP 0655095B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
thread
weft
warp
threads
knitted fabric
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Expired - Lifetime
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EP93915639A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0655095A1 (en
Inventor
Friedrich Roell
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TECNIT-Technische Textilien und Systeme GmbH
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TECNIT-Technische Textilien und Systeme GmbH
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D04B1/123Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with laid-in unlooped yarn, e.g. fleece fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B15/00Details of, or auxiliary devices incorporated in, weft knitting machines, restricted to machines of this kind
    • D04B15/38Devices for supplying, feeding, or guiding threads to needles
    • D04B15/54Thread guides
    • D04B15/56Thread guides for flat-bed knitting machines
    • D04B15/565Associated thread-clamping or thread-severing devices
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B39/00Knitting processes, apparatus or machines not otherwise provided for
    • D04B39/06Knitting processes, apparatus or machines not otherwise provided for adapted for combined knitting and weaving

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a textile material, in particular textile articles, made from woven knitwear and to a method for the production thereof.
  • textile material generally comprises material which is produced from thread-like material on a flat knitting machine by means of weaving, knitting, etc.
  • the thread-like material can e.g. B. be mono- or multifilament, be made of synthetic or natural fibers or wire and also be multi-component, such as. B. coated, wrapped or wound material.
  • textile articles also include textile articles.
  • Knitted fabric is characterized by its elasticity and its insulating effect due to the high proportion of trapped air.
  • the production has the further advantage that, within the technical possibilities, shaped pieces can be produced, with even three-dimensional objects such as, for example, B. car seat covers (DE-A1-37 25 539, GB-A-2 223 034) without additional processing steps such. B. sewing or cutting are possible.
  • knitwear is the wide color patterning possibility already during the production e.g. B. by intarsia and jacquard technology.
  • intarsia and jacquard technology there are varied structures by changing from right to left stitches, transferring stitches etc.
  • the introduction of knitting and warp knitting machines with single needle control in connection with computer control meant great progress.
  • the range of usable yarns is also restricted.
  • the yarns must be flexible, i.e. H. in general be thin enough to be able to form sufficiently small stitches, since otherwise the product would be too voluminous and the material consumption would also be very large because of the large stitches.
  • Yarns with a rough surface also make it difficult to move the stitches together, so that a stiff knitwear is obtained.
  • Flocked, twisted or coated yarns in particular are therefore only suitable for meshing to a limited extent or not at all.
  • the combination of weaving and meshing i.e. H.
  • the introduction of weave structures such as weft threads or warp threads in knitted fabrics or vice versa was therefore sought early on and achieved to a certain extent by modifying the known knitting, knitting or Raschel machines.
  • the textile materials thus obtained had a continuous mesh structure in which weft, warp and both weft and warp threads were incorporated.
  • the weft or warp threads were basically endless, and their distribution over the sticks or rows of stitches was given by the construction of the machine used for the production, i. H. regular and constant across the entire material area.
  • the properties of the material for a textile web or a textile body produced in one piece were thus also predetermined over the entire area.
  • Such modified machines and products made with them describe e.g. B. the patents US-3,884,053 for a circular knitting machine with continuous, spiral weft and continuous warp thread insertion, FR-A-2'079'217 for continuous warp threads in a knitted flat or tubular textile web and GB-A-239.261 for knitting machines including with warp and weft insertion. As far as warp and weft insertion was realized, there was no weave between warp and weft.
  • WO 91/00936 shows the entry of a weft thread in a knitted fabric.
  • a weft insertion takes place in a double-layer knitted fabric which is knitted on a two-bed machine with offset needles.
  • the weft insertion is fixed between the two surfaces of the knitted fabric in that the stitches are transferred to the other bed after the insertion of the weft thread.
  • the weft thread does not have to be inserted over the entire width of the knitted fabric, but only up to a certain point.
  • the weft thread is then returned, making it possible to insert the weft thread entry in a defined area with respect to the width.
  • EP 0 415 512 A1 shows a flat knitting machine with individually programmable controlled thread guides.
  • the thread guides are provided for feeding the yarn to be normally knitted. It was therefore not recognized in this publication that the individually controllable thread guides form the possibility of introducing threads into the knitted fabric as weft or warp threads.
  • a device with separately controlled thread guides which have a clamping / cutting device, is disclosed in the subsequently published WO 93/19234.
  • This document shows the provision of a clamping device on a thread guide in connection with the intarsia technique, in which typical intarsia optics can be achieved by meshing different threads in different areas across the width of the knitting material.
  • This document shows no warp thread devices for introducing warp threads into the knitted fabric.
  • warp threads, weft threads or warp and weft threads are additionally inserted into a knitted fabric produced on a flat knitting machine, the sequence of the warp and / or weft threads changing during the manufacture of the textile material and in particular also the weft or warp threads in any arrangement and number only be involved temporarily.
  • the sequence of inserting or re-suspending a warp or weft thread entry is preferably carried out individually for each thread.
  • the manufacturing process is hereinafter referred to as "weaving”, and knitting can also be used to create the knitted fabric portion.
  • the new material is known as "woven knitwear”.
  • the term "knitting" is intended as a general term be considered for the production of textile material by meshing, that is to say in particular also include working on flat knitting machines.
  • warp thread or "weft thread” are chosen here only because of the analogy of their course in weaving technology, the technical implementation and processing mechanisms, however, are fundamentally different from those of weaving technology.
  • the weft threads run along the rows of stitches here, but do not need to be counted and are inserted by separate thread guides.
  • the warp threads run in the knitting direction, i.e. H. in the direction of the chopsticks of the knitted fabric, also need not be kneaded and are guided by the above-mentioned warp thread devices.
  • With the individual control of the warp and / or weft guides it is also possible to lay the warp and / or weft threads in such a way that they are also spliced.
  • the warp threads, but also the weft threads can be sized before processing, after which the finished textile article must then be desized.
  • the weft threads of the new type of textile are not shot, but are placed on the last row of stitches using a type of thread guide and integrated into the stitch structure during the subsequent knitting steps.
  • the warp threads are fed from individually controllable thread guide devices, which results in additional options in terms of color and shape, such as. B. jacquard pattern, guidance of the threads individually on the front or back of the mesh.
  • the warp and / or weft threads since they do not have to be involved in the stitch formation, can also consist of much thicker and stiffer yarn than is possible in the manufacture of knitted fabrics. Examples include flocked material for fluffy knitwear, wires for heated, called flexible fabrics, fire-resistant monofilaments or microfibers.
  • any materials available as yarns or filaments can be introduced into the textile. It is surprising that when using stiff thread materials there is not only excellent flexibility around the longitudinal axis of the inserted threads, whereby the inserted threads are only slightly bent, but that the textile piece can also be easily deformed by bending the inserted fibers.
  • warp and weft threads can underlay the knitted fabric with a fabric structure that can also be carried alone. This results in the possibility, in extreme cases, of producing a textile product with any three-dimensional shape on a single machine, which is partly pure knitwear, partly knitwear with inserted weft and / or warp threads and partly also made of pure fabric. In parallel, a smooth transition from elastic to inelastic can be carried out.
  • the warp and / or weft threads cannot be integrated into the stitches even over a large number of stitches.
  • the warp or weft threads then running freely in front of or behind the material result in flaps that can serve to attach the textile piece.
  • the additionally inserted weft thread can also be used to "split" the stitches.
  • the newly introduced so-called “split stitch” leads in the area of the gusset, ie. H. in the areas in which two mutually angled edges of a previously flat textile piece are joined to one another, for a uniform material appearance of the three-dimensional shape thus formed.
  • the new type of textile also combines the advantages of woven and knitted fabrics, that fabrics do not need to be steamed and stretched, and knitted fabrics are flexible.
  • Fig. 1 shows schematically the knitting of a course on a two-bed knitting machine, warp and weft threads 3 and 4 are present.
  • the weft thread 4 is laid here in a twill weave opposite the warp threads 3. Since the weft thread can be freely controlled, this type of binding can be changed with each weft.
  • each warp or weft thread can be clamped and cut off at any time in a holding device, which means that in the further manufacturing process, i. H. in the following courses, this thread is not used.
  • the clamping device reinserts the thread into the process and releases it. In this way, in addition to controlling the meshing procedure, z. B. stiffeners, color changes and other structural changes can be achieved.
  • FIG. 1a schematically shows a plan view of the double needle bed with the needles 1 of the front needle bed (not shown) and the needles 2 of the rear needle bed (not shown).
  • the front stitches 6 and rear stitches 7 shown are already knitted.
  • the warp threads 3 run through the image plane and are guided on the front of the textile piece.
  • the weft 4 is placed on the course.
  • Fig. 1b shows the state after the next knitting.
  • the thread guide (not shown) of the stitch-forming thread 5 has passed behind all the warp threads 3, whereby the warp threads 3 are in turn guided on the front of the textile piece.
  • Any number of rows of stitches can of course be knitted with knitting thread guides running behind or in front of the warp threads, this being able to be controlled individually for each warp thread. If a number of adjacent warp threads z. B. always with a knitting thread 5 running behind it and a weft 4 laid at the back over several rows of stitches, a loop results from these warp threads, e.g. B. for fastening purposes. Conversely, a number of weft threads can also be laid in such a way that they form a loop, possibly still interwoven with warp threads.
  • FIG. 2 An alternative to the integration of the weft thread is shown in FIG. 2 as a continuation of FIG. 1a.
  • the front stitches 6 were hung on the needles 2 of the rear needle bed, which gives the textile piece a different appearance.
  • the transferred stitches can be knitted immediately through the stitches 7 present on the rear needles 2 or together with these during the formation of the next row of stitches. It can of course also be reassigned from the back to the front, and the weft insertion can simply be interrupted or placed in such a way that it weaves with the warp threads, but is not integrated into the knitted fabric.
  • FIG. 3 shows the implementation of the split stitch, in which two stitches around the weft thread 4 are formed from a previously existing stitch, here for example a rear stitch 7.
  • FIG. 3a shows a row of stitches with weft thread 4 placed on them.
  • a half stitch ie. H. one leg of a stitch, reassigned to the rear of a rear needle 2 already carrying the stitch and immediately knitted through the existing stitch, after which the state according to FIG. 3b results.
  • the knitting thread 5 remains as a kind of catch on the front needles 1.
  • immediate knitting can also be omitted.
  • FIG. 4 Another embodiment of the split stitch is shown in FIG. 4.
  • the knitting thread 5 is placed on only the needles 1 of the front needle bed (FIG. 4a) pass half a stitch to the needles 2 of the rear needle bed.
  • the weft 4 is put on (FIG. 4b) and the transferred half stitch is passed back over the weft 4, as indicated by the arrows 8.
  • the warp threads 3 there are two stitches instead of one on each of the needles 1 (FIG. 4c), the warp threads 3 having been integrated at the same time.
  • the stitch returned can also be knitted immediately, and the warp threads can also be integrated differently or not at all.
  • the split stitch is therefore preferably used at the edges of the gusset.
  • the weft threads can be deposited overlapping in the area of the gusset.
  • Fig. 5 shows the state of a piece of textile during the processing of a gusset in the direction of arrow 12 for three-dimensional shaping.
  • the zigzag lines 11 symbolize some of the courses.
  • the weft threads 4 protruding into the already knitted textile surface, which hangs on needles that are currently inactive, are worked overlapping into the gusset seam when these needles are reinserted and reinforce them. This course of the weft threads 4 is only possible with the new technique of freely controllable weft insertion.
  • the warp threads 3 can run along the rods. These form a corner on the gusset in the finished product, which the warp threads 3 follow and thus reinforce them. It is also possible to knit the gusset from the top, with the rows of stitches running around the corner and the double crochets in the direction of the later edge. Again there are two options available:
  • the second possibility is to immediately knit the right and left sides of the gusset from the top at the same time, the gusset being produced in a row in order to decrease the number of stitches.
  • the weft threads 4 can simply pass through the gusset from left to right or vice versa.
  • the edge of a three-dimensional textile piece can also be produced with the addition of loops and possibly new warp threads.
  • the gussets do not have to be straight as shown in the illustrations, but can also be curved. When stitching the edges of the gusset together, the split stitch is used in particular. Openings can also be made in this way, the weft threads correspondingly only up to the edges of the openings and the warp threads either run around the opening or are exposed.
  • the mesh, single or all warp threads, single or all weft threads can be removed and reinserted.
  • Two or more threads can be knitted in parallel or individually or inserted as weft or warp threads.
  • the warp or weft threads can consist of little or unsuitable materials for meshing, such as. B. wires, flocked yarns, monofilaments, microfibers, textured yarns.
  • the material can also simply be unsuitable for intermeshing due to its thickness or thinness, e.g. B. twisted, wrapped or coated yarn, but can be incorporated without problems as a weft or warp thread in the fabric structure according to the invention.
  • a combination of these materials can also be used.
  • the possibility of guiding the warp or weft threads arbitrarily in front of or behind the mesh, as well as using single or multiple threads, which can however be individually controlled with regard to their course in the structure, or in particular the weft threads only over part of the Stock width can be used for structuring and coloring the goods in any pattern in the usual techniques, such as Jacquard and intarsia, as well as additional variants of the manufacturing process described above can be used.
  • a Velcro fastener can be incorporated directly by means of a covered yarn.
  • a plush is produced using a technique according to the invention, which is made by warp or Weft is reinforced.
  • the pile threads are made of heat-fixable material and act as a Velcro half after heat-fixing.
  • fully synthetic articles of clothing can be produced which are nevertheless breathable due to the use of microfiber as a weft and / or warp material.
  • Such items can e.g. B. used in the medical field as surgical gowns.
  • Tubular textiles that are reinforced by weft and / or warp can also be produced.
  • the thread to be knitted can be passed onto every second needle of the two beds, only catches being placed on one of the two beds. The weft is placed on top and either the stitches or the catches are transferred, which binds in the weft.
  • the second half of the circumference of the tube is knitted on the other needles. It can also be knitted on all needles, with the weft thread being placed on it before being emulated. Further known variants of tube knitting can obviously be realized in the expert with inserted weft and / or warp threads.
  • the textile material with inserted weft and / or warp thread is only slightly stretchable in the direction of these threads. It can be used, for example, for closed, seamless belts that have no seam, such as drive belts or conveyor belts.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

A new textile material, a so-called woven knitted fabric, contains weft threads (4) inserted in the knitted fabric in the direction of the stitch rows and/or warp threads (3) inserted in the direction of the stitch wales. Both weft and warp threads are individually inserted in a controlled manner. The material is characterised in particular by an arbitrarily selected beginning and end of individual weft or warp threads within the material, so that a broad spectrum of patterns can be obtained and locally defined property requirements can be complied with. Materials such as wires, coated yarns, micro-fibres, which in pure knitted fabrics can only be used within limits or cannot be at all used, may also be used for the weft and warp threads (3, 4). The weft and warp threads may also be mutually linked by woven links or may also be partially formed into loops. Woven knitted fabrics are particularly advantageous for the production of three-dimensionally shaped textile articles.

Description

Die vorliegende Erfindung bezieht sich auf ein Textilmaterial, insbesondere Textilartikel, aus Webmaschenware und auf ein Verfahren zu dessen Herstellung. Textilmaterial umfasst im Rahmen der Beschreibung allgemein Material, das mittels Weben, Stricken usw. aus fadenförmigem Material auf einer Flachstrickmaschine hergestellt wird. Das fadenförmiges Material kann z. B. Mono- oder Multifilament sein, aus synthetischen oder natürlichen Fasern oder Draht hergestellt sein und auch mehrkomponentig sein, wie z. B. ummanteltes, umwickeltes oder umsponnenes Material. Im Rahmen dieser Beschreibung werden mit Textilmaterial auch Textilartikel umfasst.The present invention relates to a textile material, in particular textile articles, made from woven knitwear and to a method for the production thereof. Within the scope of the description, textile material generally comprises material which is produced from thread-like material on a flat knitting machine by means of weaving, knitting, etc. The thread-like material can e.g. B. be mono- or multifilament, be made of synthetic or natural fibers or wire and also be multi-component, such as. B. coated, wrapped or wound material. Within the scope of this description, textile articles also include textile articles.

Maschenware zeichnet sich durch ihre Elastizität und ihre Isolationswirkung wegen des hohen Anteils eingeschlossener Luft aus. Aus der Herstellung ergibt sich der weitere Vorteil, dass im Rahmen der technischen Möglichkeiten geformte Stücke hergestellt werden können, wobei sogar dreidimensionale Objekte wie z. B. Autositzbezüge (DE-A1-37 25 539, GB-A-2 223 034) ohne zusätzliche Bearbeitungsschritte wie z. B. Nähen oder Zuschneiden möglich sind.Knitted fabric is characterized by its elasticity and its insulating effect due to the high proportion of trapped air. The production has the further advantage that, within the technical possibilities, shaped pieces can be produced, with even three-dimensional objects such as, for example, B. car seat covers (DE-A1-37 25 539, GB-A-2 223 034) without additional processing steps such. B. sewing or cutting are possible.

Ein weiterer Vorzug von Maschenware ist die weite Farbmusterungsmöglichkeit schon während der Herstellung z. B. durch Intarsia- und Jacquardtechnik. Zusätzlich ergeben sich abwechslungsreiche Strukturen durch Wechsel von rechten zu linken Maschen, Umhängen von Maschen usw. Gerade in diesem Bereich bedeutete die Einführung von Strick- und Wirkmaschinen mit Einzelnadelsteuerung in Verbindung mit Computersteuerung einen grossen Fortschritt.Another advantage of knitwear is the wide color patterning possibility already during the production e.g. B. by intarsia and jacquard technology. In addition, there are varied structures by changing from right to left stitches, transferring stitches etc. Especially in this area, the introduction of knitting and warp knitting machines with single needle control in connection with computer control meant great progress.

Problematisch sind jedoch bei der Herstellung geformter Stoffteile die sogenannten Zwickel, d. h. die Stellen, an denen Maschen ab- und zugenommen werden, um z. B. später die Kanten der Formteile zu bilden. Beim Ab- und Wiederzunehmen von Maschen ergibt sich eine "Naht", die jedoch gegenüber der normal hergestellten Maschenware Inkontinuitäten wie z. B. kleine Löcher aufweist, jedenfalls nicht unsichtbar ist. Ein überlappendes Stricken dieser Verbindungen wurde bereits vorgeschlagen (GB-A-2,223,036), führt jedoch im Verbindungsbereich immer noch zu einer andersartigen Vermaschung. Die Verbindung hebt sich dadurch von dem umgebenden Material deutlich ab.However, the so-called gusset, ie the places where stitches are decreased and increased, are problematic in the production of shaped fabric parts, in order, for. B. later to form the edges of the molded parts. When removing and taking back of stitches results in a "seam", which, however, has inconsistencies such as e.g. B. has small holes, in any case is not invisible. Overlapping knitting of these connections has already been proposed (GB-A-2,223,036), but still leads to a different mesh in the connection area. The connection stands out clearly from the surrounding material.

Entsprechend der Technik der Vermaschung ist zudem der Bereich verwendbarer Garne eingeschränkt. Die Garne müssen flexibel, d. h. im allgemeinen dünn genug sein, um genügend kleine Maschen bilden zu können, da sonst das Produkt zu voluminös und wegen der grossen Maschen auch der Materialverbrauch sehr gross wäre. Garne mit rauher Oberfläche erschweren auch das gegenseitige Verschieben der Maschen, so dass man eine steife Maschenware erhält. Insbesondere beflockte, umzwirnte oder beschichtete Garne sind daher für die Vermaschung nur eingeschränkt oder gar nicht geeignet.According to the technique of meshing, the range of usable yarns is also restricted. The yarns must be flexible, i.e. H. in general be thin enough to be able to form sufficiently small stitches, since otherwise the product would be too voluminous and the material consumption would also be very large because of the large stitches. Yarns with a rough surface also make it difficult to move the stitches together, so that a stiff knitwear is obtained. Flocked, twisted or coated yarns in particular are therefore only suitable for meshing to a limited extent or not at all.

Andererseits sind natürlich zu dünne Garne auch problematisch, da sie eine sehr enge Nadelteilung und damit auch entsprechend feine und anfällige Nadeln erfordern, damit die resultierende Maschenware eine dem dünnen Garn entsprechende Maschendichte aufweist, um den mechanischen und optischen Ansprüchen zu genügen.On the other hand, yarns that are too thin are of course also problematic, since they require a very narrow needle pitch and thus correspondingly fine and fragile needles, so that the resulting knitted fabric has a stitch density corresponding to the thin yarn in order to meet the mechanical and optical requirements.

Ein alternatives Stoffherstellungsverfahren, das Weben, kann dagegen verschiedenste Garnsorten verarbeiten. Die Produkte fallen jedoch nur als Bahnen von gleichmässiger Breite und gleichmässiger Struktur an. Sie sind nicht elastisch, soweit nicht das Garn selbst elastisch ist. Bei der Farbmusterung ergeben sich Einschänkungen, da die Kettfäden durchlaufen müssen. In der Folge ist in Kettrichtung nur ein durchgehendes Streifenmuster zu erreichen. In Schussrichtung erlaubt die Jacquardtechnik eine etwas erweiterte Vielfalt. Trotzdem gilt auch hier, dass jeder Schussfaden über die volle Breite durchgezogen wird.An alternative fabric manufacturing process, weaving, on the other hand, can process a wide variety of yarns. However, the products are only obtained as sheets of uniform width and structure. They are not elastic unless the yarn itself is elastic. There are restrictions when it comes to color sampling because the warp threads have to run through. As a result, only a continuous stripe pattern can be achieved in the warp direction. In the weft direction, the jacquard technique allows a slightly expanded one Diversity. Nevertheless, it also applies here that every weft thread is pulled through the full width.

Die Kombination von Weben und Vermaschung, d. h. das Einführen von Webstrukturen wie Schussfäden oder Kettfäden, in Maschenware bzw. auch umgekehrt wurde daher bereits frühzeitig angestrebt und durch Modifizierung der bekannten Strick-, Wirk- oder Raschelmaschinen in gewissem Umfang erreicht. Die so erhaltenen Textilmaterialien wiesen eine durchgehende Maschenstruktur auf, in die Schuss-, Kett- und sowohl Schuss- als auch Kettfäden eingearbeitet waren. Die Schuss- oder Kettfäden waren grundsätzlich endlos, und ihre Verteilung auf die Stäbchen bzw. Reihen der Maschen waren durch die Konstruktion der zur Herstellung benutzten Maschine gegeben, d. h. regelmässig und konstant über die gesamte Materialfläche hinweg. Damit waren auch die Eigenschaften des Materials für eine am Stück hergestellte Textilbahn bzw. einen Textilkörper über die gesamte Fläche fest vorgegeben.The combination of weaving and meshing, i.e. H. The introduction of weave structures such as weft threads or warp threads in knitted fabrics or vice versa was therefore sought early on and achieved to a certain extent by modifying the known knitting, knitting or Raschel machines. The textile materials thus obtained had a continuous mesh structure in which weft, warp and both weft and warp threads were incorporated. The weft or warp threads were basically endless, and their distribution over the sticks or rows of stitches was given by the construction of the machine used for the production, i. H. regular and constant across the entire material area. The properties of the material for a textile web or a textile body produced in one piece were thus also predetermined over the entire area.

Derartig modifizierte Maschinen und damit hergestellte Produkte beschreiben z. B. die Patenschriften US-3,884,053 für eine Rundstrickmaschine mit durchgehendem, spiralförmigem Schuss- und kontinuierlichem Kettfadeneintrag, die FR-A-2'079'217 für durchgehende Kettfäden in einer gewirkten flächigen bzw. röhrenförmigen Textilbahn und die GB-A-239,261 für Strickmaschinen u. a. mit Kett- und Schusseintrag. Soweit Kett- und Schussfadeneintrag realisiert wurden, bestand dabei zwischen Kett- und Schussfäden keine Webbindung.Such modified machines and products made with them describe e.g. B. the patents US-3,884,053 for a circular knitting machine with continuous, spiral weft and continuous warp thread insertion, FR-A-2'079'217 for continuous warp threads in a knitted flat or tubular textile web and GB-A-239.261 for knitting machines including with warp and weft insertion. As far as warp and weft insertion was realized, there was no weave between warp and weft.

Die WO 91/00936 zeigt den Eintrag eines Schußfadens in ein Gestrick. Ein derartiger Schußfadeneintrag erfolgt beim Stand der Technik in ein doppelflächiges Gestrick, das auf einer Zweibettmaschine mit versetzten Nadeln gestrickt wird. Der Schußeintrag wird dadurch zwischen den beiden Flächen des Gestricks fixiert, daß die Maschen nach dem Eintrag des Schußfadens jeweils auf das andere Bett umgehängt werden. Der Schußfaden muß bei dem bekannten Verfahren nicht über die gesamte Breite der Strickware eingelegt werden, sondern nur bis zu einem bestimmten Punkt. In der nächsten Maschenreihe wird der Schußfaden dann wieder zurückgeführt, wodurch es möglich ist, den Schußfadeneintrag bezüglich der Breite in einem definierten Bereich einzubringen. Während also bei dem bekannten Verfahren der Schußfaden seitlich eingeführt und nach einer bestimmten Anzahl von Maschen irgendwann einmal wieder aus dem Strickmaterial herausgeführt wird, ist es mit diesem bekannten Verfahren nicht möglich, den Schußfaden innerhalb des Gestricks beginnen oder enden zu lassen. Um einen Faden innerhalb des Gestricks beginnen oder enden zu lassen, müßte dieser bei dem bekannten Verfahren nachträglich von Hand abgeschnitten werden. Die EP 0 305 682 A2 beschreibt ein ähnliches Verfahren, in dem ein Schußfaden bereichsweise und zusammenhängend über einen Abschnitt, in welchem die Einbindung als Kettfaden erfolgt, in eine Maschenware eingebracht wird. Die Verwendung einer Klemm/Schneideinrichtung für das bereichsweise Einbinden der Schußfaden wird allerdings nicht erwähnt.WO 91/00936 shows the entry of a weft thread in a knitted fabric. In the prior art, such a weft insertion takes place in a double-layer knitted fabric which is knitted on a two-bed machine with offset needles. The weft insertion is fixed between the two surfaces of the knitted fabric in that the stitches are transferred to the other bed after the insertion of the weft thread. In the known method, the weft thread does not have to be inserted over the entire width of the knitted fabric, but only up to a certain point. In the next row of stitches, the weft thread is then returned, making it possible to insert the weft thread entry in a defined area with respect to the width. Thus, while in the known method the weft thread is inserted laterally and at some point after a certain number of stitches is led out again from the knitting material, it is not possible with this known method to start or end the weft thread within the knitted fabric. In order to start or end a thread within the knitted fabric, this would have to be cut off by hand in the known method. EP 0 305 682 A2 describes a similar method in which a weft thread is introduced into a knitted fabric in regions and coherently over a section in which it is incorporated as a warp thread. However, the use of a clamping / cutting device for the area-wise incorporation of the weft thread is not mentioned.

Die EP 0 415 512 A1 zeigt eine Flachstrickmaschine mit einzeln programmierbar angesteuerten Fadenführern. Die Fadenführer sind jedoch zur Zuführung des normal zu vermaschenden Garns vorgesehen. In dieser Druckschrift wurde somit nicht erkannt, daß die einzeln ansteuerbaren Fadenführer die Möglichkeit bilden, Fäden als Schuß- oder Kettfäden in die Strickware einzubringen.EP 0 415 512 A1 shows a flat knitting machine with individually programmable controlled thread guides. However, the thread guides are provided for feeding the yarn to be normally knitted. It was therefore not recognized in this publication that the individually controllable thread guides form the possibility of introducing threads into the knitted fabric as weft or warp threads.

Eine Vorrichtung mit separat angesteuerten Fadenführern, die eine Klemm/Schneideinrichtung aufweisen, ist in der nachveröffentlichten WO 93/19234 offenbart. Diese Druckschrift zeigt das Vorsehen einer Klemmeinrichtung an einem Fadenführer im Zusammenhang mit der Intarsia-Technik, bei der durch die Vermaschung unterschiedlicher Fäden in unterschiedlichen Bereichen über die Breite des Strickmaterials typische Intarsia-Optiken erzielbar sind. Diese Druckschrift zeigt keine Kettfadenvorrichtungen zur Einbringung von Kettfäden in das Gestrick.A device with separately controlled thread guides, which have a clamping / cutting device, is disclosed in the subsequently published WO 93/19234. This document shows the provision of a clamping device on a thread guide in connection with the intarsia technique, in which typical intarsia optics can be achieved by meshing different threads in different areas across the width of the knitting material. This document shows no warp thread devices for introducing warp threads into the knitted fabric.

Es ist Aufgabe der Erfindung, eine Möglichkeit zu schaffen, ein Gestrick herzustellen, bei dem an definierten Stellen Strukturänderungen erzielt werden können.It is the object of the invention to create a possibility of producing a knitted fabric in which structural changes can be achieved at defined points.

Diese Aufgabe wird mit dem Textilmaterial gemäß Anspruch 1, einem Verfahren gemäß Anspruch 14 und Vorrichtungen gemäß den Ansprüchen 16 bis 18 gelöst. Besondere Ausführungen, Herstellungsverfahren und Anwendungen sind in den weiteren Ansprüchen angegeben. Weitere Vorteile der Erfindung ergeben sich je nach dem Anwendungsgebiet des erfindungsgemässen Materials:

  • Verwendung von bisher für Maschenware unbrauchbaren fadenförmigen Materialien in der Herstellung derartiger Stoffteile;
  • Erweiterung des Farb- und Formmusterungsspielraums;
  • Herstellung beliebiger, dreidimensional geformter Textilartikel durch Strick technik, so dass weitere Bearbeitungsschritte bis auf eine eventuelle Formung weitgehendst vermieden werden;
  • Herstellung. geformter, insbesondere dreidimensional geformter Stoffteile mit hinsichtlich insbesondere Aussehen und mechanischen Eigenschaften verbesserten Zwickelnähten;
  • Textilmaterial mit zusätzlichen Funktionen und/oder Eigenschaften, wie z. B. Temperaturstabilität oder Sterilisierbarkeit, wobei daraus hergestellte Bekleidungsstücke weiterhin angenehm zu tragen sind.
This object is achieved with the textile material according to claim 1, a method according to claim 14 and devices according to claims 16 to 18. Special designs, manufacturing processes and applications are specified in the further claims. Further advantages of the invention result depending on the field of application of the material according to the invention:
  • Use of thread-like materials previously useless for knitwear in the manufacture of such fabric parts;
  • Expansion of color and shape pattern latitude;
  • Manufacture of any three-dimensionally shaped textile articles by knitting technology, so that further processing steps are avoided as far as possible, apart from a possible shaping;
  • Manufacturing. shaped, in particular three-dimensionally shaped fabric parts with improved gusset seams with regard to particular appearance and mechanical properties;
  • Textile material with additional functions and / or properties, such as. B. temperature stability or sterilizability, with items of clothing made therefrom still being comfortable to wear.

Es werden demgemäss in eine auf einer Flachstrickmaschine hergestellte Maschenware zusätzlich Kettfäden, Schussfäden oder Kett- und Schussfäden eingelegt, wobei die Abfolge der Kett- und/oder Schussfäden während der Herstellung des Textilmaterials wechselt und insbesondere auch die Schuss- oder Kettfäden in beliebiger Anordnung und Anzahl nur zeitweise eingebunden werden. Die Abfolge des Einsetzens bzw. Wiederaussetzens eines Kett- oder Schussfadeneintrags erfolgt dabei bevorzugt individuell für jeden Faden. Das Herstellungsverfahren wird im weiteren "Webstricken" genannt, wobei neben Stricken auch Wirken für die Erstellung des Maschenwareanteils angewandt werden kann. Das neue Material wird als "Webmaschenware" bezeichnet. Die Bezeichnung "Stricken" soll im weiteren als allgemeiner Begriff für die Herstellung von Textilmaterial durch Vermaschung betrachtet werden, also insbesondere auch das Wirken auf Flachstrickmaschinen umfassen.Accordingly, warp threads, weft threads or warp and weft threads are additionally inserted into a knitted fabric produced on a flat knitting machine, the sequence of the warp and / or weft threads changing during the manufacture of the textile material and in particular also the weft or warp threads in any arrangement and number only be involved temporarily. The sequence of inserting or re-suspending a warp or weft thread entry is preferably carried out individually for each thread. The manufacturing process is hereinafter referred to as "weaving", and knitting can also be used to create the knitted fabric portion. The new material is known as "woven knitwear". The term "knitting" is intended as a general term be considered for the production of textile material by meshing, that is to say in particular also include working on flat knitting machines.

Die Bezeichnungen "Kettfaden" bzw. "Schussfaden" werden hier nur wegen der Analogie ihres Verlaufs in der Webtechnik gewählt, die technische Realisierung und die Verarbeitungsmechanismen sind dagegen grundsätzlich von denjenigen der Webtechnik verschieden. Die Schussfäden verlaufen hier längs der Maschenreihen, brauchen jedoch nicht kuliert zu werden und werden von separaten Fadenführern eingelegt. Die Kettfäden verlaufen in Strickrichtung, d. h. in Richtung der Stäbchen der Maschenware, müssen ebenfalls nicht kuliert werden und werden von den oben genannten Kettfadenvorrichtungen geführt. Mit der Einzelsteuerung der Kett- und/oder Schussfadenführer ist es auch möglich, die Kett- und/oder Schussfäden so zu legen, dass sie ebenfalls kuliert werden. Insbesondere die Kettfäden, aber auch die Schussfäden können vor der Verarbeitung geschlichtet werden, wonach der fertige Textilartikel dann entschlichtet werden muss.The terms "warp thread" or "weft thread" are chosen here only because of the analogy of their course in weaving technology, the technical implementation and processing mechanisms, however, are fundamentally different from those of weaving technology. The weft threads run along the rows of stitches here, but do not need to be counted and are inserted by separate thread guides. The warp threads run in the knitting direction, i.e. H. in the direction of the chopsticks of the knitted fabric, also need not be kneaded and are guided by the above-mentioned warp thread devices. With the individual control of the warp and / or weft guides, it is also possible to lay the warp and / or weft threads in such a way that they are also spliced. In particular, the warp threads, but also the weft threads, can be sized before processing, after which the finished textile article must then be desized.

Die Realisierung des Einlegens der zusätzlichen Fäden gelingt im allgemeinen erst auf Maschinen mit einzeln gesteuerten Fadenführern und Kettfadenvorrichtungen, die bevorzugt ebenfalls für jeden Kettfaden eine Einzelsteuerung aufweisen. Diese zusätzlichen Fadenführungsmechanismen für die bestehenden Strick Maschinen können vorteilhaft nur von entsprechenden Computersteuerungen gesteuert werden, die in den letzten Jahren den Einzug in die Strickmaschinentechnik gehalten haben.The insertion of the additional threads is generally only possible on machines with individually controlled thread guides and warp thread devices, which preferably also have an individual control for each warp thread. These additional thread guide mechanisms for the existing knitting machines can advantageously only be controlled by corresponding computer controls which have entered the knitting machine technology in recent years.

Da derartige Maschinen erst seit kurzem zur Verfügung stehen und die darauf herstellbaren Textilmaterialien bisher unbekannte, neue Eigenschaften zeigen und entsprechend neue Anwendungsmöglichkeiten erschliessen, wurden die jetzt gegebenen Realisierungmöglichkeiten der erfindungsgemässen Materialien bisher nicht erkannt. Insbesondere ist es erst durch Einführung von Vorrichtungen zum Abklemmen von Fäden möglich geworden, einen Faden, insbesondere Kett- oder Schussfaden, innerhalb des Textilmaterials enden zu lassen und an einer anderen Stelle wieder beginnen zu lassen. Damit können selektiv die Kett- oder Schussfäden einzeln und programmgesteuert, also ohne Prozessunterbrechung, nur in bestimmten Bereichen des Materials eingetragen werden, wobei das Problem der verdeckten Führung, z. B. auf der Rückseite oder im Innern des Textilmaterials, nicht auftritt.Since such machines have only recently become available and the textile materials that can be produced on them show previously unknown, new properties and open up correspondingly new application possibilities, these have now been given Possibilities for realizing the materials according to the invention have so far not been recognized. In particular, it has only become possible through the introduction of devices for pinching off threads to allow a thread, in particular warp or weft thread, to end within the textile material and to start again at another point. This allows the warp or weft threads to be entered individually and in a program-controlled manner, that is to say without interrupting the process, only in certain areas of the material, the problem of concealed guidance, eg. B. on the back or inside the textile material does not occur.

Durch die Möglichkeit, Schuss- und Ketteintrag lokal begrenzt vorzunehmen, wobei auch ein Wechsel von einem zu einem anderen Kett- oder Schussfadenmaterial möglich ist, können Musterungen erzielt und Gebiete mit besonderen Eigenschaften, z. B. mechanischer Natur, erzeugt werden, ohne dass das Material weiteren Bearbeitungsschritten unterzogen werden müsste.The possibility of making weft and warp entry locally, whereby a change from one warp or weft thread material is also possible, patterns can be achieved and areas with special properties, e.g. B. mechanical nature, are generated without the material having to undergo further processing steps.

Im Unterschied zur Weberei werden die Schussfäden bei der neuen Textilart nicht geschossen, sondern mittels einer Art Fadenführer auf die jeweils letzte Maschenreihe aufgelegt und während der nachfolgenden Strick schritte in die Maschenstruktur eingebunden. Ebenso werden auch die Kettfäden von einzeln steuerbaren Fadenführvorrichtungen zugeführt, woraus sich zusätzliche Möglichkeiten in der Farbgebung und Form ergeben, wie z. B. Jacquard-Musterung, Führung der Fäden einzeln auf der Vorder- oder Rückseite der Vermaschung.In contrast to the weaving mill, the weft threads of the new type of textile are not shot, but are placed on the last row of stitches using a type of thread guide and integrated into the stitch structure during the subsequent knitting steps. Likewise, the warp threads are fed from individually controllable thread guide devices, which results in additional options in terms of color and shape, such as. B. jacquard pattern, guidance of the threads individually on the front or back of the mesh.

Die Kett- und/oder Schussfäden können, da sie nicht an der Maschenbildung beteilig sein müssen, auch aus wesentlich dickerem und steiferem Garn bestehen als in der Herstellung von Maschenware möglich. Als Beispiele seien beflocktes Material für flauschige Maschenwaren, Drähte für beheizte, flexible Stoffe, feuerbeständige Monofilamente oder Mikrofasern genannt. Insgesamt können, da die eingelegten Fäden keine primäre Haltefunktion übernehmen müssen, sondern durch die umgebende Maschenware in das Stoffgerüst eingebunden werden, beliebige, als Garne oder Filamente zur Verfügung stehende Materialien in das Textil eingebracht werden. Überraschend ist, dass bei Verwendung steifer Fadenmaterialien nicht nur um die Längsachse der eingelegten Fäden eine hervorragende Flexibilität gegeben ist, wobei ja die eingelegten Fäden nur wenig verbogen werden, sondern dass das Textilstück auch noch leicht unter Biegung der eingelegten Fasern verformt werden kann.The warp and / or weft threads, since they do not have to be involved in the stitch formation, can also consist of much thicker and stiffer yarn than is possible in the manufacture of knitted fabrics. Examples include flocked material for fluffy knitwear, wires for heated, called flexible fabrics, fire-resistant monofilaments or microfibers. Overall, since the inserted threads do not have to take on a primary holding function, but rather are integrated into the fabric structure by the surrounding knitted fabric, any materials available as yarns or filaments can be introduced into the textile. It is surprising that when using stiff thread materials there is not only excellent flexibility around the longitudinal axis of the inserted threads, whereby the inserted threads are only slightly bent, but that the textile piece can also be easily deformed by bending the inserted fibers.

Die Verwendung von Kett- und Schussfäden kann der Maschenware noch eine Gewebestruktur unterlegen, die auch allein tragfähig ist. Damit ergibt sich die Möglichkeit, im Extremfall auf einer einzigen Maschine ein textiles Erzeugnis mit beliebiger, dreidimensionaler Formgebung zu erzeugen, das teilweise reine Maschenware ist, teilweise aus Maschenware mit eingelegten Schuss- und/oder Kettfäden und teilweise auch aus reinem Gewebe besteht. Parallel dazu kann ein fliessender Übergang von elastisch zu unelastisch durchgeführt werden.The use of warp and weft threads can underlay the knitted fabric with a fabric structure that can also be carried alone. This results in the possibility, in extreme cases, of producing a textile product with any three-dimensional shape on a single machine, which is partly pure knitwear, partly knitwear with inserted weft and / or warp threads and partly also made of pure fabric. In parallel, a smooth transition from elastic to inelastic can be carried out.

Ebenso ist es möglich, auf die Schuss- und Kettfäden nicht nur Jacquardtechnik, wie in der Weberei, sondern auch Intarsiatechnik zur Erzielung von Farbmustern anzuwenden, da die Kett- und auch die Schussfäden einzeln geführt werden. Zusätzliche Möglichkeiten ergeben sich aus der Verwendung von zwei oder mehr, zumindest zeitweise parallel geführten Schuss- oder Kettfäden.It is also possible to use not only jacquard technology, as in weaving, but also inlaid technology to achieve color patterns on the weft and warp threads, since the warp and weft threads are guided individually. Additional possibilities result from the use of two or more, at least temporarily weft or warp threads.

Die Kett- und/oder die Schussfäden können auch über eine grössere Anzahl Maschen hinweg nicht in die Maschen eingebunden werden. Die dann frei vor oder hinter dem Material verlaufenden Kett- bzw. Schussfäden ergeben Laschen, die zur Befestigung des Textilstücks dienen können. Eine Anwendung ergibt sich bei der Herstellung von Autositzen, da so Befestigungselemente integral mit dem Bezug hergestellt werden können.The warp and / or weft threads cannot be integrated into the stitches even over a large number of stitches. The warp or weft threads then running freely in front of or behind the material result in flaps that can serve to attach the textile piece. An application arises in the manufacture of car seats, since fastening elements can thus be produced integrally with the cover.

Der zusätzlich eingelegte Schussfaden kann darüber hinaus zum "Splitten" der Maschen verwendet werden. Der hier neu eingeführte, sogenannte "Splitstich" führt im Bereich der Zwickel, d. h. in den Bereichen, in denen zwei gegeneinander gewinkelte Kanten eines bis dahin flächigen Textilstücks aneinander angefügt werden, zu einem gleichmässigen Stoffaussehen der damit gebildeten dreidimensionalen Form.The additionally inserted weft thread can also be used to "split" the stitches. The newly introduced so-called "split stitch" leads in the area of the gusset, ie. H. in the areas in which two mutually angled edges of a previously flat textile piece are joined to one another, for a uniform material appearance of the three-dimensional shape thus formed.

Die neue Textilart verbindet auch die Vorteile von Gewebe und Maschenware, dass Gewebe nicht gedämpft und gestretcht werden muss, und Maschenware flexibel ist.The new type of textile also combines the advantages of woven and knitted fabrics, that fabrics do not need to be steamed and stretched, and knitted fabrics are flexible.

Die Möglichkeiten der neuen Textilart sollen anhand einiger Figuren weiter erläutert werden, aus denen der Aufbau der neuen Stoffart hervorgeht. Dadurch soll jedoch der Umfang der Erfindung nicht eingeschränkt werden, und alle dem Fachmann naheliegenden Modifikationen werden ebenfalls umfasst.The possibilities of the new type of textile are to be explained further with the aid of a few figures, from which the structure of the new type of fabric emerges. However, this is not intended to limit the scope of the invention, and all modifications that are obvious to those skilled in the art are also included.

Es zeigen:

Fig. 1
ein Schema der Nadelbetten einer Zweibettmaschine mit einer Maschenreihe, einem aufgelegten Schussfaden und Kettfäden;
Fig. 2
das Einbinden des Schussfadens durch Umhängen;
Fig. 3
den zweiseitigen Splitstich mit Abstricken;
Fig. 4
den einseitigen Splitstich ohne Abstricken;
Fig. 5
die Abarbeitung eines Zwickels; und
Fig. 6
die Abarbeitung eines Zwickels nach einer anderen Methode.
Show it:
Fig. 1
a diagram of the needle beds of a twin bed machine with a stitch row, a weft thread and warp threads;
Fig. 2
binding the weft thread by moving it around;
Fig. 3
the double-sided split stitch with knitting;
Fig. 4
the one-sided split stitch without knitting;
Fig. 5
processing a gusset; and
Fig. 6
the processing of a gusset according to another method.

Fig. 1 zeigt schematisch das Stricken einer Maschenreihe auf einer Zweibettstrickmaschine, wobei Kett- und Schussfäden 3 bzw. 4 vorhanden sind. Der Schussfaden 4 ist hier in einer Köperbindung gegenüber den Kettfäden 3 gelegt. Da der Schussfaden frei gesteuert werden kann, kann diese Bindungsart bei jeder Schusslegung geändert werden.Fig. 1 shows schematically the knitting of a course on a two-bed knitting machine, warp and weft threads 3 and 4 are present. The weft thread 4 is laid here in a twill weave opposite the warp threads 3. Since the weft thread can be freely controlled, this type of binding can be changed with each weft.

Durch eine nicht gezeigte Klemmvorrichtung kann jeder Kett- oder Schussfaden zu einem beliebigen Zeitpunkt in einer Haltevorrichtung eingeklemmt und abgeschnitten werden, wodurch im weiteren Herstellungsprozess, d. h. in den folgenden Maschenreihen, dieser Faden nicht eingesetzt wird. Zum Wiedereintragen führt die Klemmvorrichtung den Faden wieder in den Prozess ein und gibt ihn frei. Auf diese Art können, neben der Steuerung der Vermaschungsprozedur, an bestimmten Stellen z. B. Versteifungen, Farbänderungen und andere Strukturänderungen erzielt werden.By means of a clamping device (not shown), each warp or weft thread can be clamped and cut off at any time in a holding device, which means that in the further manufacturing process, i. H. in the following courses, this thread is not used. For re-entry, the clamping device reinserts the thread into the process and releases it. In this way, in addition to controlling the meshing procedure, z. B. stiffeners, color changes and other structural changes can be achieved.

Fig. 1a zeigt schematisch eine Aufsicht auf das Doppelnadelbett mit den Nadeln 1 des vorderen Nadelbetts (nicht dargestellt) und den Nadeln 2 des hinteren Nadelbetts (nicht dargestellt). Die gezeigten vorderen Maschen 6 und hinteren Maschen 7 sind bereits abgestrickt. Die Kettfäden 3 verlaufen durch die Bildebene und sind auf der Vorderseite des Textilstücks geführt. Der Schussfaden 4 ist auf die Maschenreihe aufgelegt.1a schematically shows a plan view of the double needle bed with the needles 1 of the front needle bed (not shown) and the needles 2 of the rear needle bed (not shown). The front stitches 6 and rear stitches 7 shown are already knitted. The warp threads 3 run through the image plane and are guided on the front of the textile piece. The weft 4 is placed on the course.

Fig. 1b zeigt den Zustand nach dem nächsten Abstricken. Der Fadenführer (nicht dargestellt) des maschenbildenden Fadens 5 ist hier hinter sämtlichen Kettfäden 3 durchgelaufen, wodurch die Kettfäden 3 wiederum auf der Vorderseite des Textilstück geführt werden. Es können natürlich beliebige Anzahlen Maschenreihen mit hinter bzw. vor den Kettfäden durchlaufendem Strickfadenführer gestrickt werden, wobei dies für jeden Kettfaden einzeln gesteuert werden kann. Wird eine Anzahl nebeneinanderliegender Kettfäden z. B. immer mit dahinter verlaufendem Strickfaden 5 und hinten verlegtem Schuss 4 über mehrere Maschenreihen geführt, so ergibt sich eine Schlaufe aus diesen Kettfäden, z. B. für Befestigungszwecke. Umgekehrt kann auch eine Anzahl Schussfäden so gelegt werden, dass sie, evtl. noch mit Kettfäden verwoben, eine Schlaufe bilden.Fig. 1b shows the state after the next knitting. The thread guide (not shown) of the stitch-forming thread 5 has passed behind all the warp threads 3, whereby the warp threads 3 are in turn guided on the front of the textile piece. Any number of rows of stitches can of course be knitted with knitting thread guides running behind or in front of the warp threads, this being able to be controlled individually for each warp thread. If a number of adjacent warp threads z. B. always with a knitting thread 5 running behind it and a weft 4 laid at the back over several rows of stitches, a loop results from these warp threads, e.g. B. for fastening purposes. Conversely, a number of weft threads can also be laid in such a way that they form a loop, possibly still interwoven with warp threads.

Eine Alternative der Einbindung des Schussfadens zeigt Fig. 2 als zeitliche Fortsetzung von Fig 1a. Die vorderen Maschen 6 wurden auf die Nadeln 2 des hinteren Nadelbetts umgehängt, wodurch sich ein anderes Aussehen des Textilstücks ergibt. Die umgehängten Maschen können sofort-durch die auf den hinteren Nadeln 2 vorhandenen Maschen 7 abgestrickt werden oder zusammen mit diesen während der Bildung der nächsten Maschenreihe. Es kann natürlich auch von hinten nach vorne umgehängt werden, und der Schusseintrag kann einfach unterbrochen oder so gelegt werden, dass er zwar mit den Kettfäden eine Webbindung eingeht, aber nicht in die Maschenware eingebunden wird.An alternative to the integration of the weft thread is shown in FIG. 2 as a continuation of FIG. 1a. The front stitches 6 were hung on the needles 2 of the rear needle bed, which gives the textile piece a different appearance. The transferred stitches can be knitted immediately through the stitches 7 present on the rear needles 2 or together with these during the formation of the next row of stitches. It can of course also be reassigned from the back to the front, and the weft insertion can simply be interrupted or placed in such a way that it weaves with the warp threads, but is not integrated into the knitted fabric.

Fig. 3 zeigt die Durchführung des Splitstichs, bei dem zwei Maschen um den Schussfaden 4 herum aus einer vorher vorhandenen Masche, hier beispielsweise einer hinteren Masche 7, gebildet werden. Fig. 3a zeigt eine Maschenreihe mit aufgelegtem Schussfaden 4. Gemäss den Pfeilen 9 wird dann von vorne jeweils eine Halbmasche, d. h. ein Schenkel einer Masche, nach hinten auf jeweils eine hintere, bereits Masche tragende Nadel 2 umgehängt und sofort durch die vorhandene Masche abgestrickt, wonach sich der Zustand gemäss Fig. 3b ergibt. Der Strickfaden 5 bleibt als eine Art Fang auf den vorderen Nadeln 1. Das sofortige Abstricken kann natürlich auch unterbleiben.Fig. 3 shows the implementation of the split stitch, in which two stitches around the weft thread 4 are formed from a previously existing stitch, here for example a rear stitch 7. FIG. 3a shows a row of stitches with weft thread 4 placed on them. According to arrows 9, a half stitch, ie. H. one leg of a stitch, reassigned to the rear of a rear needle 2 already carrying the stitch and immediately knitted through the existing stitch, after which the state according to FIG. 3b results. The knitting thread 5 remains as a kind of catch on the front needles 1. Of course, immediate knitting can also be omitted.

Ein andere Ausführung des Splitstichs zeigt Fig. 4. Hier wird direkt nach dem Auflegen des Strickfadens 5 auf ausschliesslich die Nadeln 1 des vorderen Nadelbetts (Fig. 4a) eine halbe Masche an die Nadeln 2 des hinteren Nadelbetts übergeben. Der Schussfaden 4 wird aufgelegt (Fig. 4b) und die übergebene Halbmasche über den Schussfaden 4 hinweg wieder zurückübergeben, wie es die Pfeile 8 andeuten. Danach befinden sich zwei Maschen statt einer auf jeder der Nadeln 1 (Fig. 4c), wobei die Kettfäden 3 gleichzeitig eingebunden worden sind. Natürlich kann die zurückübergebene Masche auch sofort abgestrickt werden, und die Kettfäden können auch anders oder gar nicht eingebunden werden.Another embodiment of the split stitch is shown in FIG. 4. Here, directly after the knitting thread 5 is placed on only the needles 1 of the front needle bed (FIG. 4a) pass half a stitch to the needles 2 of the rear needle bed. The weft 4 is put on (FIG. 4b) and the transferred half stitch is passed back over the weft 4, as indicated by the arrows 8. Then there are two stitches instead of one on each of the needles 1 (FIG. 4c), the warp threads 3 having been integrated at the same time. Of course, the stitch returned can also be knitted immediately, and the warp threads can also be integrated differently or not at all.

Durch den mit dem Splitstich erzielten Zug im Gewebe erhält man im Bereich der Zwickel eine dichte Vermaschung ohne die bisher bekannten, unerwünschten Verdünnungen oder Löcher. Der Splitstich wird daher bevorzugt an den Rändern der Zwickel eingesetzt.Due to the tension in the fabric achieved with the split stitch, a dense mesh is obtained in the area of the gusset without the previously known, undesirable thinning or holes. The split stitch is therefore preferably used at the edges of the gusset.

Zusätzlich können im Bereich der Zwickel die Schussfäden überlappend abgelegt werden. Fig. 5 zeigt den Zustand eines Textilstücks während der Bearbeitung eines Zwickels in Richtung des Pfeils 12 für die dreidimensionale Formung. Die Zickzacklinien 11 symbolisieren einige der Maschenreihen. Die in die bereits gestrickte Textilfläche, die an momentan stillgelegten Nadeln hängt, hineinragenden Schussfäden 4 werden beim Wiedereinsetzen dieser Nadeln überlappend in die Zwickelnaht eingearbeitet und verstärken diese. Dieser Verlauf der Schussfäden 4 ist nur mit der neuen Technik des frei steuerbaren Schusseintrags möglich.In addition, the weft threads can be deposited overlapping in the area of the gusset. Fig. 5 shows the state of a piece of textile during the processing of a gusset in the direction of arrow 12 for three-dimensional shaping. The zigzag lines 11 symbolize some of the courses. The weft threads 4 protruding into the already knitted textile surface, which hangs on needles that are currently inactive, are worked overlapping into the gusset seam when these needles are reinserted and reinforce them. This course of the weft threads 4 is only possible with the new technique of freely controllable weft insertion.

Zusätzlich können die Kettfäden 3 entlang der Stäbchen verlaufen. Diese bilden im fertigen Produkt am Zwickel eine Ecke, der die Kettfäden 3 folgen und sie somit verstärken. Ebenso ist es möglich, den Zwickel von der Spitze her zu stricken, wobei die Maschenreihen um die Ecke verlaufen und die Stäbchen in Richtung der späteren Kante. Hier stehen wieder zwei Möglichkeiten zur Verfügung:In addition, the warp threads 3 can run along the rods. These form a corner on the gusset in the finished product, which the warp threads 3 follow and thus reinforce them. It is also possible to knit the gusset from the top, with the rows of stitches running around the corner and the double crochets in the direction of the later edge. Again there are two options available:

Es kann zunächst z. B. die linke Kante des Zwickels von oben nach unten gestrickt werden, wie es der Pfeil 13 in Fig. 6 andeutet, wobei ähnlich wie oben freie Enden der Schussfäden 4 über die Zwickelkante 10 herausstehen. Die Zickzacklinien 15 symbolisieren auch hier wieder einige der Maschenreihen. Später wird dann die rechte Kante von unten nach oben gestrickt gemäss Pfeil 14, wobei laufend entsprechend der Neigung der Zwickelkanten ungehängt wird, die neuen Maschenreihen auf der rechten Seite 17 mit den vorher gebildeten und an jetzt stillgelegten Nadeln hängenden Maschen auf der linken Seite 16 verknüpft werden, und die Schussfadenenden in die jetzt gebildeten Maschenreihen, bevorzugt überlappend mit den in diese neu gelegten Schussfäden 4 eingearbeitet werden.It can first z. B. the left edge of the gusset are knitted from top to bottom, as indicated by the arrow 13 in FIG. 6, similar to the free ends of the weft threads 4 protruding from the gusset edge 10. The zigzag lines 15 symbolize here again some of the courses. Later the right edge is knitted from bottom to top according to arrow 14, whereby the new stitch rows on the right side 17 are continuously linked according to the inclination of the gusset edges with the previously formed stitches on the left side 16 which are now hanging from needles are, and the weft ends are worked into the now formed rows of stitches, preferably overlapping with the newly laid weft threads 4.

Die zweite Möglichkeit besteht darin, sofort gleichzeitig die rechte und die linke Seite des Zwickels von seiner Spitze her zu stricken, wobei der Zwickel durch Umhängen im Sinne der Abnahme der Maschenzahl in einer Reihe erzeugt wird. Hierbei können die Schussfäden 4 einfach von links nach rechts oder umgekehrt über den Zwickel durchlaufen.The second possibility is to immediately knit the right and left sides of the gusset from the top at the same time, the gusset being produced in a row in order to decrease the number of stitches. Here, the weft threads 4 can simply pass through the gusset from left to right or vice versa.

Umgekehrt kann natürlich statt von der Zwickelspitze her auch zu dieser hin mit Hinzufügen von Maschen und gegebenenfalls neuen Kettfäden die Kante eines dreidimensionalen Textilstücks erzeugt werden.Conversely, of course, instead of the gusset tip, the edge of a three-dimensional textile piece can also be produced with the addition of loops and possibly new warp threads.

Es ist von daher naheliegend, die angegebenen Verfahren zu benutzen, um beliebig geformte dreidimensionale Textilstücke in einem Arbeitsgang zu produzieren. Die Zwickel müssen nicht wie in den Abbildungen gerade sein, sondern können auch geschwungen sein. Beim Zusammenfügen der Ränder des Zwickels wird insbesondere der Splitstich angewendet. Öffnungen können so ebenfalls hergestellt werden, wobei die Schussfäden entsprechend nur bis zu den Rändern der Öffnungen verlaufen, und die Kettfäden entweder um die Öffnung herum verlaufen oder aussetzen.It is therefore obvious to use the specified methods to produce arbitrarily shaped three-dimensional textile pieces in one operation. The gussets do not have to be straight as shown in the illustrations, but can also be curved. When stitching the edges of the gusset together, the split stitch is used in particular. Openings can also be made in this way, the weft threads correspondingly only up to the edges of the openings and the warp threads either run around the opening or are exposed.

Es ist auch möglich, die einzelnen Komponenten der Stoffstruktur für sich zumindest zeitweise während des Herstellungsvorgangs auszuschalten bzw. zu variieren. Es können die Vermaschung, einzelne oder alle Kettfäden, einzelne oder alle Schussfäden aus- und wieder einsetzen. Es können zwei oder mehr Fäden parallel oder auch einzeln verstrickt bzw. als Schuss- oder Kettfäden eingelegt werden.It is also possible to switch off or vary the individual components of the fabric structure for themselves at least temporarily during the manufacturing process. The mesh, single or all warp threads, single or all weft threads can be removed and reinserted. Two or more threads can be knitted in parallel or individually or inserted as weft or warp threads.

Die Kett- oder Schussfäden können aus für die Vermaschung wenig oder ungeeigneten Materialien bestehen, wie z. B. Drähten, beflockten Garnen, Monofilamenten, Mikrofasern, texturierten Garnen. Das Material kann auch einfach durch seine Dicke oder Dünne ungeeignet für die Vermaschung sein, wie z. B. umzwirntes, umwickeltes oder ummanteltes Garn, jedoch ohne Probleme als Schuss- oder Kettfaden in die erfindungsgemässe Stoffstruktur einarbeitbar sein. Es kann auch eine Kombination dieser Materialien verwendet werden.The warp or weft threads can consist of little or unsuitable materials for meshing, such as. B. wires, flocked yarns, monofilaments, microfibers, textured yarns. The material can also simply be unsuitable for intermeshing due to its thickness or thinness, e.g. B. twisted, wrapped or coated yarn, but can be incorporated without problems as a weft or warp thread in the fabric structure according to the invention. A combination of these materials can also be used.

Die Möglichkeit, die Kett- oder Schussfäden willkürlich vor- oder hinter der Vermaschung zu führen, sowie einzelne oder mehrere Fäden zu verwenden, die jedoch bezüglich ihres Verlaufs in der Struktur jeweils einzeln gesteuert werden können, oder auch insbesondere die Schussfäden nur über einen Teil der Warenbreite zu führen, kann für die Strukturierung und die Farbgebung der Ware in beliebigen Mustern in den gängigen Techniken, wie z.B. Jacquard und Intarsia, sowie zusätzlichen, oben beschriebenen Varianten des Herstellungsprozesses verwendet werden.The possibility of guiding the warp or weft threads arbitrarily in front of or behind the mesh, as well as using single or multiple threads, which can however be individually controlled with regard to their course in the structure, or in particular the weft threads only over part of the Stock width can be used for structuring and coloring the goods in any pattern in the usual techniques, such as Jacquard and intarsia, as well as additional variants of the manufacturing process described above can be used.

Aus der Vielfalt der einsetzbaren Materialien ergeben sich zusätzliche Anwendungen. Es kann z. B. mittels eines ummantelten Garns eine Seite eines Klettverschlusses direkt eingearbeitet werden. Dazu wird mit einer erfindungsgemässen Technik ein Plüsch hergestellt, der durch Kett- oder Schussfäden verstärkt ist. Die Polfäden bestehen aus thermofixierbarem Material und wirken nach der Thermofixierung als eine Klettverschlusshälfte. Weiterhin können vollsynthetische Bekleidungsgegenstände hergestellt werden, die dennoch durch die Verwendung von Mikrofaser als Schuss- und/oder Kettmaterial atmungsaktiv sind. Derartige Gegenstände können z. B. im medizinischen Bereich als OP-Kittel verwendet werden.Additional applications result from the variety of materials that can be used. It can e.g. B. one side of a Velcro fastener can be incorporated directly by means of a covered yarn. For this purpose, a plush is produced using a technique according to the invention, which is made by warp or Weft is reinforced. The pile threads are made of heat-fixable material and act as a Velcro half after heat-fixing. Furthermore, fully synthetic articles of clothing can be produced which are nevertheless breathable due to the use of microfiber as a weft and / or warp material. Such items can e.g. B. used in the medical field as surgical gowns.

Es können auch Schlauchtextilien hergestellt werden, die durch Schuss und/oder Kette verstärkt sind. Auf Zweibettmaschinen kann dafür der zu vermaschende Faden auf jede zweite Nadel der beiden Betten geführt werden, wobei jeweils auf einem der beiden Betten nur Fänge gelegt werden. Der Schuss wird aufgelegt, und entweder die Maschen oder die Fänge werden umgehängt, wodurch der Schussfaden eingebunden wird. Im zweiten Durchgang wird dann auf den anderen Nadeln die zweite Hälfte des Schlauchumfangs gestrickt. Es kann auch auf allen Nadeln gestrickt werden, wobei der Schussfaden vor dem Kulieren aufgelegt wird. Weitere bekannte Varianten des Schlauchstrickens lassen sich in dem Fachmann offensichtlicher Weise mit eingelegtem Schuss und/oder Kettfäden realisieren. Auf Vierbettmaschinen ist es möglich, auch bei der Umhängetechnik mit allen Nadeln zu arbeiten, da je zwei Betten eine Hälfte des Querschnittumfangs erzeugen können. Im Gegensatz zu reiner Maschenware ist das Textilmaterial mit eingelegtem Schuss und/oder Kettfaden in Richtung dieser Fäden nur wenig dehnbar. Es ist damit beispielsweise für geschlossene, nahtlose Riemen verwendbar, die keine Naht aufweisen, wie Treibriemen oder Transportbänder.Tubular textiles that are reinforced by weft and / or warp can also be produced. On two-bed machines, the thread to be knitted can be passed onto every second needle of the two beds, only catches being placed on one of the two beds. The weft is placed on top and either the stitches or the catches are transferred, which binds in the weft. In the second round, the second half of the circumference of the tube is knitted on the other needles. It can also be knitted on all needles, with the weft thread being placed on it before being emulated. Further known variants of tube knitting can obviously be realized in the expert with inserted weft and / or warp threads. On four-bed machines, it is also possible to work with all needles in the shoulder technique, since two beds can produce half of the cross-sectional circumference. In contrast to pure knitwear, the textile material with inserted weft and / or warp thread is only slightly stretchable in the direction of these threads. It can be used, for example, for closed, seamless belts that have no seam, such as drive belts or conveyor belts.

Weitere Anwendungen des erfindungsgemässen Textilmaterials ergeben sich für ohne Naht herstellbare, insbesondere dreidimensionale Vorformlinge für Faserverbundprodukte, wie z. B. Helme, Formlinge für Dichtungen und Membranen, Isolationsteile. Weitere Anwendungsmöglichkeiten sind dem Fachmann offensichtlich, und die obige Aufzählung stellt keinesfalls eine Einschränkung der Anwendungsmöglichkeiten dar.Further applications of the textile material according to the invention result for three-dimensional preforms for fiber composite products that can be produced without a seam, such as, for. B. helmets, moldings for seals and membranes, insulation parts. Other possible uses are obvious to the person skilled in the art, and the list above does not in any way limit the possible uses.

Claims (19)

  1. Textile material consisting at least partially of knitted fabric with at least one weft and/or warp thread inserted selectively and individually in addition to the interlooping thread, which weft thread is worked in in the direction of the course and which warp thread is worked in in the direction of the interlooping and is not sunk in over at least one loop length or one loop width, the insertion of the weft and/or warp thread starting at least once within the knitted fabric and ending at least once within the knitted fabric through the cutting off of the inserted thread.
  2. Textile material according to claim 1 with warp and weft threads,
    characterised in that warp and weft threads are additionally interlaced with one another by a weave.
  3. Textile material according to one of claims 1 to 2,
    characterised in that
    the warp and/or weft threads are laid into the wales or courses at regular intervals.
  4. Textile material according to one of claims 1 to 3,
    characterised in that
    more than one weft thread runs in at least one course.
  5. Textile material according to one of claims 1 to 4,
    characterised in that
    at least one warp thread consists of a plurality of single threads.
  6. Textile material according to one of claims 1 to 5,
    characterised in that
    at least one warp and/or weft thread consists of wire or flock yarn, without or with at least one additional thread of a normal kind.
  7. Textile material according to one of claims 1 to 6,
    characterised in that
    in at least one course at least two weft threads are present, which either with different guiding run parallel from the starting point to the end of the weft insertion, or only over a portion of a weft insertion with or without overlapping.
  8. Textile material according to one of claims 1 to 7,
    characterised in that
    in at least one wale at least two warp threads are present which either with different guiding run parallel from the starting point to the end of the warp insertion or only over a portion of a warp insertion with or without overlapping.
  9. Textile material according to one of claims 1 to 8,
    characterised in that
    in the interlacing of at least one weft thread at least one loop is divided into two loops.
  10. Textile material according to one of claims 1 to 9,
    characterised in that at least one edge is present, in which at least two weft threads overlap and run partially in the edge, or in which at least one weft thread runs transversely to it.
  11. Three-dimensionally shaped textile article made from the textile material according to one of claims 1 to 10,
    characterised in that
    at least one edge is present, in which at least one warp thread begins or ends and/or partially runs in the edge, or in which at least one warp runs continuously transversely to it.
  12. Textile article made from the material according to one of claims 1 to 11,
    characterised in that
    in at least one place a certain number of warp threads and/or weft threads, or just one of them, are guided in such a way that, over a certain distance, they are not bound into the fabric structure and form a tab.
  13. Textile article according to claim 12,
    characterised in that
    the weft or warp threads which form a tab are connected by means of at least one warp or weft thread in a weave.
  14. Method of manufacturing a knitted fabric with at least one weft and/or warp thread worked in additionally, and individually as selected, i.e. one thread running in the direction of the course or the interlooping, which is not sunk in over at least one loop width/loop length, on a knitting machine with at least one individually controllable warp and/or weft thread carrier, which is provided with a clamping/cutting device, with the following steps in the manufacturing process:
    - The weft and/or warp thread is introduced by the weft and/or warp thread guide, which can be individually controlled as the material is interlooped into the knitted fabric;
    - a weft or warp thread, guided on a corresponding yarn carrier is introduced into the knitted fabric at a desired place by the clamping/cutting device; and
    - by clamping and cutting the weft or warp thread, the thread insertion is ended at a desired other part of the knitted fabric.
  15. Method according to claim 14,
    characterised in that
    all the warp and/or weft threads can be controlled individually re their flow, their position, their start and end and presence relative to the surrounding interlooping and to one another.
  16. Device for the manufacture of a woven knitted fabric with at least one warp thread worked in, i.e. with at least one thread running in the direction of the interlooping, which is introduced in addition to the interlooping thread as the material is knitted and is not sunk in over at least one loop length,
    - which device has at least one warp thread device, which can be individually controlled, for guiding in a warp thread,
    - which warp thread device has a clamping/cutting device, which can be operated in order to introduce the warp thread into the knitted fabric and to end the thread insertion by clamping and severing the thread.
  17. Device for the manufacture of a "woven knitted fabric" with at least one weft and warp thread worked in, i.e. with at least one thread running in the direction of the course and in the direction of the interlooping, which is brought in in addition to the interlooping thread as the material is knitted and which is not sunk in over at least one loop width/loop length,
    - which device has at least one yarn carrier, controllable individually as selected, to bring in the weft thread and a warp thread device, controllable individually as selected, to guide in a warp thread,
    - which weft thread carrier and which warp thread device have a clamping/cutting device, which can be operated in order to introduce the weft and warp thread into the knitted fabric and to end the thread insertion through clamping and severing the thread.
  18. Device for the manufacture of a woven knitted fabric with at least one weft and warp thread worked in, i.e. with at least one thread running in the direction of the course and in the direction of the interlooping, which thread is inserted in addition to the interlooping thread as the material is knitted and which is not sunk in over at least one loop width/loop length,
    - which device has at least one yarn carrier, controllable individually as selected, for bringing in the weft thread and a warp thread device for guiding in a warp thread,
    - which weft thread carrier has a clamping/cutting device, which can be operated in order to introduce the weft thread into the knitted fabric and in order to end the thread insertion by clamping and severing the thread.
  19. Application of the textile material according to one of claims 1 to 13 for the manufacture of technical textile articles, especially of blanks for fibre composite bodies, seals or membranes, of cold and/or sound insulating components or seamless closed bands, especially conveyor belts and drive belts.
EP93915639A 1992-07-08 1993-07-08 Textile material made of woven knitted fabrics Expired - Lifetime EP0655095B1 (en)

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CH214992 1992-07-08
CH2149/92 1992-07-08
PCT/DE1993/000617 WO1994001607A1 (en) 1992-07-08 1993-07-08 Textile material made of woven knitted fabrics

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WO1994001607A1 (en) 1994-01-20
EP0655095A1 (en) 1995-05-31
AU4557293A (en) 1994-01-31
JPH07508800A (en) 1995-09-28
DE59304628D1 (en) 1997-01-09
ES2096304T3 (en) 1997-03-01

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