EP0013220B1 - Process for treating pieces of fabric dyed with a vat dye - Google Patents

Process for treating pieces of fabric dyed with a vat dye Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0013220B1
EP0013220B1 EP19790401030 EP79401030A EP0013220B1 EP 0013220 B1 EP0013220 B1 EP 0013220B1 EP 19790401030 EP19790401030 EP 19790401030 EP 79401030 A EP79401030 A EP 79401030A EP 0013220 B1 EP0013220 B1 EP 0013220B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fabric
mercerization
dye
fabrics
vat dye
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Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
EP19790401030
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0013220A1 (en
Inventor
Joseph Koziarz
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Linvosges SA Ste
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Linvosges SA Ste
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Publication of EP0013220A1 publication Critical patent/EP0013220A1/en
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/36—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with oxides, hydroxides or mixed oxides; with salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
    • D06M11/38—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table
    • D06M11/40—Oxides or hydroxides of elements of Groups 1 or 11 of the Periodic Table combined with, or in absence of, mechanical tension, e.g. slack mercerising
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/22—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using vat dyestuffs including indigo

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a treatment method for fabrics dyed in the piece with a vat dye and supporting the action of caustic soda, in particular for fabrics subjected under tension both in the warp direction and in the direction of the weft, fabrics previously subjected to a scouring with soda followed by a warm bleaching with hydrogen peroxide and a mercerization at 20 degrees Bé and a dye with vat dye.
  • the treatment of fabrics dyed in part with a vat dye consists of a scouring with soda, that is to say the fabric is treated by a bath brought to a boil, a warm bleaching by the hydrogen peroxide, a mercerization consisting of impregnating the fabric, previously stretched, with a solution of caustic soda which produces swelling and, consequently, a contraction of the fibers, and leaves to the threads, after the desiccation, a silky shine.
  • this mercerization carried out at 20 degrees Bé we proceed to a dye with tank dye followed by a starch and softener finish.
  • German patent No. 936,087 discloses a process for manufacturing a dyed fabric, treated in the final phase with caustic soda NaOH, but without tension, that is to say by subjecting it to caustification. This caustification only causes the removal of the fabric in places not reserved by the primer applied previously. Mercerizing cannot therefore be carried out here in the final phase, because when performed under tension, it would not promote the desired crepe effect.
  • the present invention aims to remedy these drawbacks.
  • the invention as characterized in the claims, proposes to provide a process by which a higher gloss of the fabric is obtained, especially after washing.
  • the invention relates to a treatment method for fabrics dyed in the piece with a vat dye and, in particular for fabrics supporting the action of caustic soda and subjected under tension both in the warp direction. and in the direction of the weft, fabrics previously subjected to a scouring with soda followed by a warm bleaching with hydrogen peroxide, a mercerization at 20 degrees Bé and a dye in vat dye characterized in that it has a second mercerization between 25 and 45 degrees Bé before the starch and softener finish.
  • the advantages obtained thanks to this invention consist essentially in that the resistance of the dyed fabric increases by 20 to 30% in bursting as well as the dynamometric resistances.
  • the degree of polymerization is greater and it is substantially equal to that before dyeing.
  • the mercerizing effect is significant and is maintained after washing. Fabric maintenance is made easier, making stain removal easier.
  • the disgorgement is practically eliminated from the first wash, which makes it possible to mix all the shades with white for fabrics treated according to the present invention and this without risks.
  • the final mercerization gives the fabric a certain stability. Indeed, the fabric, impregnated under tension in the warp direction, then stretched in the weft direction by the clamps of an oar, shrinks when released and regains some stability. To bring it back to the final width which will be of the order of 10% less than the initial width, it is possible, during the primer phase, to use a dotted oar and cause slight overeating. As a result, a correct stability of the fabric is obtained, a very important advantage for clothing fabrics.
  • degumming or mismatching is first carried out to remove the starchy materials. Then, the fat is eliminated by the caustic soda in an autoclave, that is to say that one proceeds to the scouring. This scouring is followed by bleaching using oxygenated water as a bleaching agent.
  • a first mercerization is carried out which consists in impregnating the cotton fiber under tension for a short time with a concentrated detergent of caustic soda kept cold, then rinsing it with hot water then with cold water and, finally, neutralize it with an acid and rinse it again.
  • the piece of fabric is impregnated under tension in the warp direction and then it is stretched in the weft direction by a gripper expanding device.
  • this first mercerization is carried out at 20 degrees Bé.
  • vat dye As it is used depending on the nature of the fabric and the nature of the dye (s).
  • the piece of fabric is subjected to starch and softener finishing operations.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)

Description

L'invention a trait à un procédé de traitement pour des tissus teints en pièce avec un colorant de cuve et supportant l'action de la soude caustique, notamment pour des tissus soumis sous tension à la fois dans le sens de la chaîne et dans le sens de la trame, tissus préalablement assujettis à un débouillissage à la soude suivi d'un blanchiment chaud à l'eau oxygénée et à un mercerisage à 20 degrés Bé et à une teinture en colorant de cuve.The invention relates to a treatment method for fabrics dyed in the piece with a vat dye and supporting the action of caustic soda, in particular for fabrics subjected under tension both in the warp direction and in the direction of the weft, fabrics previously subjected to a scouring with soda followed by a warm bleaching with hydrogen peroxide and a mercerization at 20 degrees Bé and a dye with vat dye.

Actuellement, le traitement des tissus teints en pièce avec un colorant de cuve se compose d'un débouillissage à la soude, c'est-à-dire on traite le tissu par un bain porté à ébullition, d'un blanchiment chaud par l'intermédiaire de l'eau oxygénée, d'un mercerisage consistant à imprégner le tissu, préalablement tendu, d'une solution de soude caustique qui produit un gonflement et, par voie de conséquence, une contraction des fibres, et laisse aux fils, après la dessication, un brillant soyeux. Après ce mercerisage effectué à 20 degrés Bé, on procède à une teinture en colorant de cuve suivie d'un apprêt amidon et adoucissant.Currently, the treatment of fabrics dyed in part with a vat dye consists of a scouring with soda, that is to say the fabric is treated by a bath brought to a boil, a warm bleaching by the hydrogen peroxide, a mercerization consisting of impregnating the fabric, previously stretched, with a solution of caustic soda which produces swelling and, consequently, a contraction of the fibers, and leaves to the threads, after the desiccation, a silky shine. After this mercerization carried out at 20 degrees Bé, we proceed to a dye with tank dye followed by a starch and softener finish.

On connaît, par le brevet allemand n° 936.087, un procédé de fabrication d'un tissu teint, traité en phase finale par de la soude caustique NaOH, mais sans tension, c'est-à-dire en lui faisant subir une caustification. Cette caustification provoque uniquement le retrait du tissu aux endroits non réservés par l'apprêt appliqué auparavant. Le mercerisage ne peut donc être effectué ici en phase finale, car pratiqué sous tension, il ne favoriserait pas l'effet crépon recherché.German patent No. 936,087 discloses a process for manufacturing a dyed fabric, treated in the final phase with caustic soda NaOH, but without tension, that is to say by subjecting it to caustification. This caustification only causes the removal of the fabric in places not reserved by the primer applied previously. Mercerizing cannot therefore be carried out here in the final phase, because when performed under tension, it would not promote the desired crepe effect.

On connaît également, par le brevet français n° 560.968, un procédé selon lequel on recherche une amélioration de l'effet mercerisant sur un tissu traité au thiocyanate cité comme solvant de la cellulose, composant essentiel du coton, ce qui doit amener une baisse de résistance du tissu. Toutefois, ce procédé provoque certains effets sur des tissus imprimés.Also known, from French Patent No. 560,968, is a process by which an improvement in the mercerizing effect is sought on a fabric treated with thiocyanate cited as a solvent for cellulose, an essential component of cotton, which must bring about a drop in resistance of the fabric. However, this process has certain effects on printed fabrics.

Toutefois, on a constaté que les tissus traités de la sorte absorbent facilement les taches et qu'il s'avère très difficile de les éliminer au lavage. De plus, l'aspect du tissu se dégrade rapidement. Par ailleurs, les premiers lavages de ces tissus traités selon le procédé ci-dessus provoquent un dégorgement de la teinture. Il est certain que ce dégorgement présente un très grand inconvénient puisqu'on risque une interpénétration des couleurs entre les tissus de nuances différentes pendant le processus du lavage. En effet, il est connu que le mercerisage, effectué avant la teinture, améliore le rendement tinctorial des tissus coton, mais lorsque le tissu passe ensuite dans le bain de teinture, on constate, après lavage et séchage, que:

  • - l'effet mercerisant a beaucoup diminué, surtout après lavage chez l'utilisateur;
  • - la résistance du tissu et son degré de polymérisation ont sensiblement baissé;
  • - le dégorgement du colorant se poursuit même après plusieurs lavages.
However, it has been found that fabrics treated in this way easily absorb stains and that it is very difficult to remove them in the wash. In addition, the appearance of the fabric degrades quickly. Furthermore, the first washes of these fabrics treated according to the above process cause bleeding of the dye. It is certain that this disgorgement has a very great disadvantage since there is a risk of interpenetration of colors between fabrics of different shades during the washing process. Indeed, it is known that mercerization, carried out before dyeing, improves the dye yield of cotton fabrics, but when the fabric then passes through the dye bath, it is found, after washing and drying, that:
  • - the mercerizing effect has greatly diminished, especially after washing at the user;
  • - the resistance of the fabric and its degree of polymerization have significantly decreased;
  • - the dye bleeding continues even after several washes.

Pour pallier ces inconvénients, on a pensé procéder au mercerisage après la phase de teinture en colorant de cuve. Toutefois, on a constaté qu'il n'était plus possible de blanchir sur le même matériel que précédemment. Pour obtenir la même nuance, il fallait prévoir entre 20 à 30 % de colorant supplémentaire, ce qui, nécessairement, entraîne une augmentation du coût du traitement. Lors du mercerisage après teinture, l'aspect est plus brillant, ce qui est normal, mais la nuance se modifie légèrement et de façon difficilement contrôlable. Pe ce fait, on est obligé de renuancer après le mercerisage. En conclusion, compte tenu de l'augmentation de la quantité de matières colorantes, de la nécessité d'une opération supplémentaire de renuançage, ce mode de teinture est déconseillé par les techniciens.To overcome these drawbacks, it has been thought to carry out mercerization after the dyeing phase with vat dye. However, it was found that it was no longer possible to launder on the same material as previously. To obtain the same shade, it was necessary to provide between 20 to 30% of additional dye, which necessarily leads to an increase in the cost of treatment. During mercerization after dyeing, the appearance is brighter, which is normal, but the shade changes slightly and in a way that is difficult to control. Pe this fact, we are forced to reinvent after mercerization. In conclusion, given the increase in the amount of coloring matter, the need for an additional resurfacing operation, this dyeing method is not recommended by technicians.

La présente invention a pour but de remédier à ces inconvénients. L'invention, te!le qu'elle est caractérisée dans les revendications, se propose de fournir un procédé selon lequel on obtient une brillance supérieure du tissu, surtout après le lavage.The present invention aims to remedy these drawbacks. The invention, as characterized in the claims, proposes to provide a process by which a higher gloss of the fabric is obtained, especially after washing.

A cet effet, l'invention concerne un procédé de traitement pour des tissus teints en pièce avec un colorant de cuve et, notamment pour des tissus supportant l'action de la soude caustique et soumis sous tension à la fois dans le sens se la chaîne et dans le sens de la trame, tissus préalablement assujettis à un débouillissage à la soude suivi d'un blanchiment chaud à l'eau oxygénée, à un mercerisage à 20 degrés Bé et à une teinture en colorant de cuve caractérisé en ce qu'il comporte un second mercerisage entre 25 et 45 degrés Bé avant l'apprêt d'amidon et d'adoucissant.To this end, the invention relates to a treatment method for fabrics dyed in the piece with a vat dye and, in particular for fabrics supporting the action of caustic soda and subjected under tension both in the warp direction. and in the direction of the weft, fabrics previously subjected to a scouring with soda followed by a warm bleaching with hydrogen peroxide, a mercerization at 20 degrees Bé and a dye in vat dye characterized in that it has a second mercerization between 25 and 45 degrees Bé before the starch and softener finish.

Les avantages obtenus grâce à cette invention consistent essentiellement en ceci que la résistance du tissu teint augmente de 20 à 30 % à l'éclatement ainsi que les résistances dynamométriques. Le degré de polymérisation est plus important et il est sensiblement égal à celui avant teinture. L'effet mercerisant est important et se maintient après lavage. L'entretien du tissu en est facilité, ce qui rend l'élimination des taches plus aisée. Le dégorgement est pratiquement supprimé dès le premier lavage, ce qui permet de mélanger toutes les nuances avec du blanc pour des tissus traités selon la présente invention et ceci sans risques.The advantages obtained thanks to this invention consist essentially in that the resistance of the dyed fabric increases by 20 to 30% in bursting as well as the dynamometric resistances. The degree of polymerization is greater and it is substantially equal to that before dyeing. The mercerizing effect is significant and is maintained after washing. Fabric maintenance is made easier, making stain removal easier. The disgorgement is practically eliminated from the first wash, which makes it possible to mix all the shades with white for fabrics treated according to the present invention and this without risks.

Par ailleurs, le mercerisage final donne au tissu une certaine stabilité. En effet, le tissu, imprégné sous tension dans le sens de la chaîne, puis étiré dans le sens de la trame par les pinces d'une rame, rétrécit lorsqu'il est relâché et retrouve une certaine stabilité. Pour le ramener à la laize finale qui sera de l'ordre de 10 % inférieure à la laize initiale, on peut, pendant la phase de l'apprêt, utiliser une rame à picots et provoquer une légère suralimentation. De ce fait, on obtient une stabilité correcte du tissu, avantage très important pour les tissus vestimentaires.Furthermore, the final mercerization gives the fabric a certain stability. Indeed, the fabric, impregnated under tension in the warp direction, then stretched in the weft direction by the clamps of an oar, shrinks when released and regains some stability. To bring it back to the final width which will be of the order of 10% less than the initial width, it is possible, during the primer phase, to use a dotted oar and cause slight overeating. As a result, a correct stability of the fabric is obtained, a very important advantage for clothing fabrics.

Finalement, pour une concentration donnée de colorant, les nuances ressortent plus foncées avec le procédé de double mercerisage conforme à l'invention et il en résulte une économie encore possible de colorant par rapport aux procédés connus. Par ailleurs, en neutralisant le tissu après:

  • - son passage dans la soude,
  • - son rinçage à l'eau chaude puis à l'eau froide,
  • - avec de l'acide acétique à pH constant, voisin du neutre au moyen d'un pH mètre automatique, on peut garantir l'uniformité de la nuance entre les livraisons.
Finally, for a given concentration of dye, the shades stand out darker with the double mercerization process according to the invention and this results in a still possible dye saving compared to known processes. In addition, by neutralizing the tissue after:
  • - its passage through soda,
  • - rinsing with hot water and then with cold water,
  • - with acetic acid at constant pH, close to neutral by means of an automatic pH meter, we can guarantee the uniformity of the nuance between deliveries.

Le procédé selon l'invention peut être appliqué:

  • - sur des tissus fabriqués avec des filés teints mercerisés avant teinture;
  • - sur des tissus imprimés supportant le mercerisage. Dans ce cas, on augmente la qualité du tissu et celle de l'impression.
The method according to the invention can be applied:
  • - on fabrics made with dyed mercerized yarn before dyeing;
  • - on printed fabrics supporting mercerization. In this case, the quality of the fabric and that of the printing are increased.

L'invention sera bien comprise en se référant à la description suivante faite à titre d'exemple.The invention will be better understood by referring to the following description given by way of example.

Pour le traitement d'un tissu teint en pièce avec un colorant de cuve, on procède en premier lieu du dégommage ou dépare- mentage pour la disparition des matières amylacées. Puis, on réalise l'élimination des matières grasses par la soude caustique en autoclave, c'est-à-dire que l'on procède au débouillissage. Ce débouillissage est suivi d'un blanchiment en utilisant comme agent de blanchiment de l'eau oxygénée.For the treatment of a piece-dyed fabric with a vat dye, degumming or mismatching is first carried out to remove the starchy materials. Then, the fat is eliminated by the caustic soda in an autoclave, that is to say that one proceeds to the scouring. This scouring is followed by bleaching using oxygenated water as a bleaching agent.

Après le blanchiment, on procède à un premier mercerisage consistant à imprégner la fibre de coton sous tension pendant un court instant avec une lessive concentrée de soude caustique maintenue froide, de la rincer ensuite à l'eau chaude puis à l'eau froide et, enfin, la neutraliser avec un acide et la rincer à nouveau. Au cours de cette opération, la pièce de tissu est imprégnée sous tension dans le sens de la chaîne puis elle est étirée dans le sens de la trame par un dispositif élargisseur à pinces. Avantageusement, ce premier mercerisage est réalisé à 20 degrés Bé.After bleaching, a first mercerization is carried out which consists in impregnating the cotton fiber under tension for a short time with a concentrated detergent of caustic soda kept cold, then rinsing it with hot water then with cold water and, finally, neutralize it with an acid and rinse it again. During this operation, the piece of fabric is impregnated under tension in the warp direction and then it is stretched in the weft direction by a gripper expanding device. Advantageously, this first mercerization is carried out at 20 degrees Bé.

Après le premier mercerisage, on réalise la teinture en colorant de cuve telle qu=elle est utilisée en fonction de la nature du tissu et de la nature du ou des colorants.After the first mercerization, the dyeing is carried out with vat dye as it is used depending on the nature of the fabric and the nature of the dye (s).

Lorsque la pièce de tissu a été teinte, on la soumet à un second mercerisage réalisé entre 21 à 45 degrés Bé.When the piece of fabric has been dyed, it is subjected to a second mercerization carried out between 21 to 45 degrees Bé.

Finalement, la pièce de tissu est soumise aux opérations d'apprêt à l'amidon et à l'adoucissant.Finally, the piece of fabric is subjected to starch and softener finishing operations.

Claims (1)

1. Process for the treatment of fabrics dyed as a roll with a vat dye and withstanding action of the caustic soda, said fabrics being previously submitted to a soda deboiling followed by a warm bleaching with peroxide of hydrogen, a mercerization to 20° Bé and a dyeing with vat dye, characterized in that it comprises a second mercerization between 25 and 45° Bé before the stiffening with starch and lightening agent.
EP19790401030 1978-12-19 1979-12-18 Process for treating pieces of fabric dyed with a vat dye Expired EP0013220B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR7836387 1978-12-19
FR7836387A FR2444747A1 (en) 1978-12-19 1978-12-19 TREATMENT PROCESS FOR PIECE DYED FABRIC WITH TANK DYE

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0013220A1 EP0013220A1 (en) 1980-07-09
EP0013220B1 true EP0013220B1 (en) 1981-10-07

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP19790401030 Expired EP0013220B1 (en) 1978-12-19 1979-12-18 Process for treating pieces of fabric dyed with a vat dye

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EP (1) EP0013220B1 (en)
DE (1) DE2960945D1 (en)
FR (1) FR2444747A1 (en)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ZA827102B (en) * 1981-09-30 1983-07-27 Dollfus Mieg Et Cie Method for dyeing and/or the impressing of mercerized or caustified natural or regenerated cellulose
US4834770A (en) * 1986-07-30 1989-05-30 Ciba-Geigy Corporation Process for the simultaneous caustic treatment and dyeing of cotton goods

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
GB196696A (en) * 1923-11-17 1923-04-27 Calico Printers Ass Ltd Improvements relating to the mercerisation and finishing of textile fabrics
FR827609A (en) * 1937-10-07 1938-04-29 Improvements in the treatment of artificial materials
DE936087C (en) * 1944-06-02 1955-12-07 Cilander Ag Process for the finishing of fabrics
DE1948995A1 (en) * 1969-09-27 1971-04-15 Basf Ag Bucking or mercerising and dyeing simultane - ously

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Publication number Publication date
EP0013220A1 (en) 1980-07-09
DE2960945D1 (en) 1981-12-17
FR2444747A1 (en) 1980-07-18
FR2444747B1 (en) 1981-10-16

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