JP3528015B2 - Melange dyeing method for fabric - Google Patents

Description

Description: BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method of dyeing a wool fabric such as a woven or knitted fabric with wool fiber, and more particularly to a method of dyeing a melange-like appearance. 2. Description of the Related Art As a dyeing method for dyeing a cloth to be dyed by immersing it in a dye solution (dip dyeing), a method using a direct dye or an acid dye is used according to the type of fiber. Various methods such as a method, a method using a metal-containing complex hydrochloric acid dye, a method using a basic dye, a method using an acidic mordant dye, and a method using a reactive dye have been adopted. In these dyeings, various dyeing assistants such as penetrants and leveling agents are used to improve the permeability and leveling properties of the dye to the fiber and to control the dyeing speed. It is added to the inside and dyed. Conventionally, in dyeing a wool fabric such as a woven or knitted fabric with wool fiber, to obtain a product exhibiting a so-called melange tone expressed by mixing various colors, an anion containing an anionic auxiliary agent has been used. The cloth to be dyed is immersed in a solution of the dye to dye at high temperature. For example, when an anionic reactive dye is used, the cloth to be dyed is supplied into a kettle of a dyeing machine, and the temperature of the dye solution containing the auxiliary agent is gradually increased to about 60 ° C. at 95 ° C.
After immersion for a minute, the temperature is lowered once, aqueous ammonia is added, and the temperature is further raised to a temperature of about 70 ° C., followed by dyeing for about 20 minutes. At this time, the anionic dye in the dye solution is exhausted by the wool fiber at a high temperature, and at the same time, the anionic auxiliary is also exhausted. The exhaustion ratio of the dye in the dye solution is lower than that of the dye solution. As a result, unevenness occurs in the dyeing of the fabric, and the appearance has a melange-like appearance. [0007] However, in the conventional dyeing method, the auxiliary agent and the dye are exhausted at the same time.
The extent to which the exhaustion of the dye is inhibited by the exhaustion of the auxiliaries is small and, therefore, results only in melange-like dyeings with poor shading. The present invention has been made in view of the above, and an object of the present invention is to provide a method for dyeing a fabric which can be dyed with a melange tone emphasizing a change in shading. [0009] A book for solving the above-mentioned problems.
The melange dyeing method for the fabric of the present invention comprises the following first step to third step.
And a process. In a first step, a wool fabric to be dyed is pretreated with a solution of an anionic auxiliary. This process is performed by immersing the fabric in a solution of anionic auxiliaries, after immersion squeezing the fabric, it dried. Anionic assistant
Agents include sulfamic acid, tannic acid, tannic acid
With tartarite, synthetic tannins, aromatic sulfonic acids
Condensates, anionic activators, alkyl sulfates, etc.
I can do it. This immersion treatment in the anionic auxiliary solution is usually performed at a solution temperature of 80 to 100 ° C. and an immersion time of 20 to
The immersion is performed for 90 minutes, the squeezing rate of the immersed fabric is about 60%, and the drying is performed at a temperature of 90 ° C. for about 180 seconds. As described above, by pretreating the wool fabric to be dyed with the solution of the anionic auxiliary agent, the auxiliary agent is sufficiently absorbed into the wool fiber, and as a result, the anionic group of the wool fiber is removed. Increase. Next, as a second step, the treated cloth is dyed by dipping in a solution of a cationic dye. After immersion, it is squeezed and dried. Examples of the cationic dye include dyes having a cationic charge, which are conventionally known as cationic dyes, such as basic dyes. Various dyeing assistants such as penetrants and leveling agents are added to these dyes. The immersion treatment in the cationic dye solution is as follows.
Usually, the solution temperature is 80 to 100 ° C. and the immersion time is 20 to 90 minutes. The squeezing ratio of the cloth after immersion is about 60%, and the drying is performed at 130 ° C. for about 60 seconds. When the fabric is immersed in the cationic dye solution, the cationic dye binds to the anionic group of the wool fiber through ionic bond, and adheres to the wool fiber via the anionic auxiliary agent and is exhausted. In the third step, the cloth dyed as described above is washed with water to partially remove the attached dye. This washing process is performed by continuously immersing the fabric repeatedly in the washing tank. After washing, the fabric is squeezed and dried. The washing process is performed, for example, at a temperature of 4 in the washing tank.
The washing is performed at a temperature of 0 ° C. or less, a washing time of 10 to 20 minutes, a squeezing ratio of the fabric after the washing is 60%, and the drying is performed at a temperature of 130 ° C. × time of about 60 seconds. Since the cationic dye adheres to the wool fiber with a relatively weak bonding force due to the ionic bond with the anionic group of the wool fiber, the cationic dye is washed by water with physical friction in the third step. On the other hand, the cationic dye adhering to the wool fibers falls off relatively easily and partially, as a result of which unevenness occurs in the dyeing state of the fabric, giving a melange-like appearance. [0019] For Example (Reference Example 1) The following wool fibers made of cloth, was carried out far-Rino staining below. Fabric 100% wool fiber, woven structure; gabardine (twill weave), basis weight: 420 g / m (1) First step (anionic auxiliary tank) Anionic auxiliary; Sunlife FW (synthetic tannic acid, 5% owf (on the weight)
immersion treatment with an aqueous solution of fiber (bath ratio: 1:20, temperature: 90 ° C., immersion time: 20 minutes), squeezed at a squeezing rate of 60%, and dried at 130 ° C. for 60 seconds by a dryer equipped with a pin tenter did. (2) Second Step (Anionic Dye Tank) Anionic Dye; Lanasol Yellow 4G
(Ciba-Geigy) 0.4% owf, Lanasol
Scarlet 3G (Ciba-Geigy) 0.3%
owf, Lanazol Blue 3G (manufactured by Ciba-Geigy) 0.3% owf, auxiliary: Avoran IS (Bay
er) 1% owf, Migure Girl 2N (Senka)
1% owf, Crystal Bow Nit (manufactured by Sanbo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 20% ow
f, acetic acid (90%) (manufactured by Nippon Gohsei) 2% owf aqueous solution, bath ratio 1:20, temperature: 95 ° C., immersion time: 30 minutes, dyeing treatment by immersion, and squeezing at 60% It was squeezed and dried at a temperature of 130 ° C. for a time of 60 seconds by a pin tenter (dryer). The cloth thus obtained had a melange tone in which spots were generated in the dyeing state and the change in shade of the dye was emphasized. Reference Example 2 A dyeing method as another reference example was carried out as follows. Wool fiber 100%, woven structure; gabardine,
Weight: 420 g / m of cloth, spun yarn containing wool fibers obtained by subjecting a weft to shrink-prevention processing, and a cloth woven using a normal yarn as a warp is used as a material to be dyed. This cloth is pretreated with an anionic auxiliary agent. (First step) and a dyeing treatment with an anionic dye (second step) were performed under the same treatment conditions as in Example 1 described above. The obtained fabric had a melange tone in which the shading of the pattern due to the dyeing was further enhanced as compared with Reference Example 1. Example 1 The following wool fiber fabric was subjected to the dyeing method of the present invention as described below. -Fabric wool fiber 100%, woven structure; gabardine, basis weight; 420 g / m-First step (anion-based auxiliary tank) Anion-based auxiliary: Miggregal 2N (special alkyl sulfate, manufactured by SENKA) 5% owf, formic acid 3 % Aqueous solution at a bath ratio of 1:20, temperature: 90 ° C., immersion time: 30 minutes, squeezed at a squeezing rate of 60%, and dried by a pin tenter (dryer) at a temperature of 130 ° C. for 60 seconds. did. Second step (cationic dye tank) Cationic dye; Aizen Cathilon Bl
ue GLH (manufactured by Hodogaya Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), auxiliaries: Ionet FY 104 (nonionic surfactant, manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Industries) 1% owf, ammonium acetate 2% owf in an aqueous solution, bath ratio 1:20, temperature 95 C., immersion time; 5 minutes, dyeing treatment by immersion, squeezed at a squeezing rate of 60%, and dried with a pin tenter (dryer) at a temperature of 90.degree. C. for 180 seconds. Third step (water washing tank) The dyed fabric is washed with water at a bath ratio of 1:20, at a temperature of 20 ° C., for a dipping time of 5 minutes, and after washing with water, squeezed at a squeezing rate of 60%.
Dried. The resulting fabric had a melange tone in which the dye dyed by washing was partially dropped off to cause spots, and the shade was emphasized. Reference Example 3 The following fabric was subjected to the dyeing method of another reference example as described below. -Fabric 100% wool fiber, woven structure; gabardine, basis weight; 420
g / m 1st step (auxiliary agent tank) Reactive auxiliary agent: A-01 (reactive sulfamic acid, manufactured by SENKA) 10% owf aqueous solution, bath ratio 1:20, temperature 9
The immersion treatment was performed at 0 ° C. for 30 minutes, and the immersion was squeezed at a squeezing ratio of 60%.
Dry at 0 ° C. for 60 seconds. Second step (dye tank) Reactive dye; Lanasol Blue 3G (manufactured by Ciba-Geigy) 1% owf; auxiliary: Na2SO4 (manufactured by Sanpo Chemical Co.) 1% owf, CH3COOH 2% owf,
Migregal 2N (special alkyl sulfate, manufactured by SENKA) 1% owf aqueous solution, bath ratio 1:20, temperature 95
C., immersion time; 30 minutes, dyeing treatment by immersion, squeezed at a squeezing rate of 60%, and dried with a pin tenter (dryer) at 130.degree. C. for 60 seconds. The thus obtained fabric had a melange tone in which the shade was clearly apparent. As described above, according to the dyeing method of the present invention, a wool fabric can be dyed with a melange tone, particularly with a melange tone emphasizing a change in shading.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of the front page (56) References JP-A-4-163379 (JP, A) JP-A-6-184957 (JP, A) JP-A-6-184960 (JP, A) JP-A-3-184960 287883 (JP, A) JP-A-55-84487 (JP, A) JP-A-6-212578 (JP, A) JP-A-53-98487 (JP, A) JP-A-6-257075 (JP, A) JP-A-53-98488 (JP, A) JP-A-6-108373 (JP, A) JP-A-9-95871 (JP, A) JP-B-48-28391 (JP, B1) (58) (Int.Cl. ⁷ , DB name) D06P 5/00 101-106 D06P 5/00 120-122 D06P 3/14-3/22

Claims (1)

(57) [Claim 1] A first step of pre-treating a wool fabric with a solution of an anionic auxiliary agent, and immersing the treated fabric in a solution of a cationic dye to dye the fabric. A melange-like dyeing method for a fabric, comprising a second step of drying and a third step of washing the cloth with water and partially removing attached dyes.