JPH0995872A - Malange-toned dyeing of fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a dyeing method capable of dyeing wool fabrics so as to present melange-toned color with deepness variation emphasized. SOLUTION: An ordinary wool fabric, or wool fabric made by weaving spun yarns comprising wool fibers subjected to shrinkproofing as both warps and wefts or at least part of one party thereof, is pretreated with an anionic auxiliary solution and then immersed in an anionic dye solution and dyed to partially suppress dye exhaustion. Alternatively, a wool fabric is pretreated with an anionic auxiliary solution and then immersed in a cationic dye solution and dyed, then washed with water to effect being partially deprived of the dye attached to the fabric.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a dyeing method for wool fabrics such as woven fabrics and knitted fabrics with wool fibers, and more particularly to a dyeing method for producing a melange-like appearance.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Dyeing methods for immersing a fabric to be dyed in a dye solution (dyeing) include a method using a direct dye, a method using an acid dye, and a method including an acid dye, depending on the type of fiber. Various methods such as a method using a metal complex hydrochloric acid dye, a method using a basic dye, a method using an acid mordant dye, and a method using a reactive dye have been adopted.

In these dyes, various dyeing aids such as penetrants and leveling agents are used as dye solutions for the purpose of improving the permeability of dyes into fibers, leveling properties and controlling the dyeing speed. It is added to the inside and dyed.

Conventionally, in dyeing a wool cloth such as a woven or knitted fabric with a wool fiber, in order to obtain a so-called melange-like product expressed by mixing various colors, an anion-containing auxiliary agent is added. A cloth to be dyed is dipped in a solution of a system dye and dyed at a high temperature.

For example, when an anionic reactive dye is used, the cloth as the material to be dyed is fed into the kettle of the dyeing machine, and the temperature of the dye solution containing the auxiliary is gradually raised to about 60 at 95 ° C.
After soaking for a minute, the temperature is once lowered, ammonia water is added, and the temperature is further raised to about 70 ° C. and left for about 20 minutes for dyeing.

At this time, the anionic dye in the dye solution is exhausted to the wool fiber at a high temperature, but at the same time, the anionic auxiliaries are also exhausted. Therefore, when the dyeing treatment is performed without adding the auxiliaries. The exhaustion rate of the dye in the dye solution is lower than that of This causes unevenness in the dyeing of the cloth, resulting in a melange appearance.

[0007]

However, in the above conventional dyeing method, since the auxiliary agent and the dye are exhausted at the same time,
The rate at which the exhaustion of the dye is hindered by the exhaustion of the auxiliary agent is small, and therefore, only the melange dyeing with a slight change in shade is obtained.

The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object of the present invention is to provide a method for dyeing a fabric capable of dyeing a melange tone emphasizing a change in shade.

[0009]

[Means for Solving the Problems] A melange dyeing method for cloth according to the first aspect of the present invention, which solves the above problems, comprises the following first step and second step.

[0010] In the first step, the woolen fabric, which is the material to be dyed, is pretreated with a solution of an anionic auxiliary agent. This process
It is carried out by immersing the cloth in a solution of an anionic auxiliary agent, and after the immersion, the cloth is squeezed and dried.

Here, examples of the anionic auxiliaries include sulfamic acid, tannic acid, a mixture of tannic acid and tartar, synthetic tannin, an aromatic sulfonic acid condensate, an anion activator, and an alkyl sulfate. You can

The dipping treatment in this anionic auxiliary solution is
Usually, the solution temperature is 30 ° C. or less and the immersion time is 5 to 60 minutes. Further, the squeezing ratio of the cloth after soaking is about 60%, and the drying is carried out at a temperature of 130 ° C. for about 60 seconds.

Thus, by pretreating the fabric with the solution of the anionic auxiliaries, the auxiliaries are sufficiently exhausted into the wool fibers.

Next, as a second step, the cloth treated in the first step is dipped in a solution of an anionic dye to be dyed. After soaking, squeeze and dry.

Examples of anionic dyes include dyes having anionic charge, such as acid dyes, metal-containing complex hydrochloric acid dyes, and acid mordant dyes, which are conventionally known as anionic dyes. Dyeing aids such as penetrants and leveling agents are added to these dyes as needed.

The immersion treatment in this anionic dye solution is
Usually, the solution temperature is 80 to 100 ° C. and the immersion time is 20 to 90 minutes. The squeezing ratio of the cloth after soaking is about 60%, and the drying is carried out at a temperature of 130 ° C. and a time of about 60 seconds.

By dipping the cloth in this dye solution, the anionic dye is exhausted to the wool fiber, but since the auxiliary agent is exhausted first by the pretreatment in the first step, the dye is exhausted. Is partially blocked, resulting in spots of dyeing and a melange tone.

Particularly, since the auxiliary agent in the solution is exhausted together with the dye in addition to the exhaustion of the auxiliary agent first,
The amount of auxiliary agent exhausted by the wool fiber is larger than in the past,
As a result, the exhaustion of the dye is further hindered, and as a result, the treated fabric exhibits a melange tone in which the change in shade is emphasized.

In the dyeing method of the second invention, a woolen fabric obtained by weaving a spun yarn containing shrink-proof wool fiber in at least a part of one or both of warp and weft is used as a dyeing object. Processing is performed through the same first step and second step as in the case of the first invention.

That is, in the same manner as in the first invention, a cloth containing shrink-proofed wool fibers is immersed in a solution of an anionic auxiliary agent for pretreatment in the first step, and then in the second step. The treated cloth is dipped in a solution of an anionic dye for dyeing.

In the second aspect of the present invention, as a fabric in which the spun yarn containing shrink-proof wool fiber is used at least in part, for example, the spun yarn is used in either one of warp and weft, and the other is usually used. In addition to the fabric woven using ordinary yarn made of fibers, the above-mentioned spun yarn is arranged on every other yarn of warp and weft, or on every other yarn of warp and weft, A fabric woven by arranging other yarns with ordinary yarns may be used. Further, the spun yarn is not limited to the spun yarn of shrink-proofed wool fibers only, and may be a spun yarn of a blended fiber of shrink-proofed wool fibers and normal fibers. A fabric woven using spun yarns for all of the warp yarns and the weft yarns can be used as the dyeing object.

The shrink-proof wool fiber used in the cloth used as the article to be dyed in the second aspect of the present invention has its scale (impurities) removed by the shrink-proof treatment, so that the auxiliaries and dyes are absorbed. It is easily exhausted.

Therefore, according to the second aspect of the present invention, in the spun yarn used for the fabric, the dye between the shrink-proofed fiber and the non-shrink-proof ordinary fiber is used. The amount of exhaustion is different, resulting in a dyeing with an enhanced shade of melange.

The melange dyeing method for the fabric of the third invention is as follows:
It is characterized by comprising the following first to third steps.

In the first step, the woolen fabric, which is the material to be dyed, is pretreated with a solution of anionic auxiliaries. This treatment is performed by immersing the cloth in a solution of the anionic auxiliary agent, and after the immersion, the cloth is squeezed and dried.

Also in this third invention, the same various anionic auxiliaries as those exemplified in the above invention can be used. The dipping treatment in the anionic auxiliary solution is usually performed at a solution temperature of 8
It is carried out at 0 to 100 ° C. for 20 to 90 minutes for the immersion time, the squeezing ratio of the cloth after the immersion is about 60%, and the drying is performed at the temperature of 90 ° C. for 18 hours.
It is about 0 seconds.

Thus, by pre-treating the woolen fabric, which is the material to be dyed, with the anionic auxiliaries, the auxiliaries are sufficiently absorbed into the wool fibers, and as a result, the anion groups of the wool fibers increase. To do.

Next, as a second step, the treated cloth is dipped in a solution of a cationic dye to be dyed. After soaking, squeeze and dry.

Examples of cationic dyes include dyes having a cation charge, which are conventionally known as cationic dyes such as basic dyes. Various dyeing aids such as penetrants and leveling agents are added to these dyes.

The immersion treatment in this cationic dye solution is
Usually, the solution temperature is 80 to 100 ° C. and the immersion time is 20 to 90 minutes. The squeezing ratio of the cloth after the immersion is about 60%, and the drying is performed at a temperature of 130 ° C. for about 60 seconds.

By dipping the cloth in the cationic dye solution, the cationic dye is bound to the anionic group of the wool fiber by ionic bond, and is attached to the wool fiber through the anionic auxiliary agent and exhausted.

In the third step, the cloth dyed as described above is washed with water to partially remove the attached dye. This water washing treatment is performed by continuously and repeatedly immersing the cloth in a water washing tank. After the water washing, squeezing and drying are performed.

This washing process is performed, for example, at a temperature of the washing tank of 4
The washing is performed at 0 ° C. or less for 10 to 20 minutes with water, the cloth drawing ratio after washing with water is 60%, and the drying is performed at a temperature of 130 ° C. for about 60 seconds.

Here, since the cationic dye is attached to the wool fiber with a relatively weak binding force due to the ionic bond with the anion group of the wool fiber, it is washed with water accompanied by physical friction in the third step. The cationic dye adhering to the wool fibers is relatively easily partly dropped off, and as a result, the dyed state of the cloth is uneven and the appearance is melange.

Further, the melange dyeing method of the fourth invention comprises the following first step, second step and third step.

In the first step, a wool cloth, such as a woven or knitted wool fiber, which is a dyeing object, is pretreated with a solution of an anionic or cationic reactive auxiliary agent. This treatment is performed by immersing the cloth in the reactive auxiliary agent solution, and after immersing the cloth, the cloth is squeezed and dried.

Examples of the anionic reactive auxiliary agent include reactive sulfamic acid, and examples of the cationic reactive auxiliary agent include quaternary ammonium salt and polyamine resin.

The dipping treatment in this reactive auxiliary agent solution is usually carried out at a solution temperature of 80 to 100 ° C. and a dipping time of 20 to 90 minutes. The squeezing ratio of the cloth after soaking is about 60%, and the drying is performed at a temperature of 90 ° C. for 180 seconds or a temperature of 160 ° C. for 60 seconds.

By thus pretreating the fabric with the anionic or cationic reactive auxiliary agent, the auxiliary agent is gradually exhausted into the wool fiber by the covalent bond of the reactive group. However, since the reaction rate in the solution varies, the treated fabric has a difference in the exhaust amount of the auxiliary agent between fibers or between fiber parts.

Next, as a second step, the treated cloth is dyed by immersing it in a solution of anionic or cationic reactive dye. After soaking, squeeze and dry.

Dyeing aids may be added to these dyes, if necessary.

The dipping treatment in this dye solution is usually carried out at a solution temperature of 80 to 100 ° C. and a dipping time of 20 to 90 minutes.
The squeezing ratio of the cloth after soaking is about 60%, and the drying temperature is 130 ° C.
× Time is about 60 seconds.

By this dyeing treatment, the anionic or cationic reactive dye is exhausted into the wool fiber by the covalent bond of the reactive group, but since the auxiliary agent has already been exhausted in the first step before, Exhaustion of dye is hindered. At this time, since the amount of exhaustion of the auxiliary agent varies between fibers or between fiber parts, the amount of dye exhausted also varies between fibers or fiber parts. As a result, it is possible to obtain a dyed fabric having a melange-like appearance in which the change in shade is emphasized.

[0044]

【Example】

(Example 1) The following wool fiber fabric was subjected to the dyeing method of the first invention as follows.・ Cloth 100% wool fiber, woven structure; gabardine (twill weave), basis weight: 420 g / m 1st step (anion-based auxiliary agent tank) Anion-based auxiliary agent: Sunlife FW (synthetic tannic acid, manufactured by Nika Chemical Co., Ltd.) 5 % Owf (on the weight
Immersion treatment with an aqueous solution of of fiber) at a bath ratio of 1:20, a temperature of 90 ° C. and an immersion time of 20 minutes, squeezing this with a squeezing ratio of 60%, and drying with a dryer equipped with a pin tenter at a temperature of 130 ° C. for 60 seconds did.

Second Step (Anionic Dye Tank) Anionic Dye; Lanasol Yellow 4G
(Ciba Geigy) 0.4% owf, Lanasol
Scarlet 3G (Ciba Geigy) 0.3%
owf, Lanasol Blue 3G (manufactured by Ciba Geigy) 0.3% owf, auxiliary agent; Aboran IS (Bay)
er) 1% owf, Migre Girl 2N (Senka)
1% owf, crystalline Glauber's salt (manufactured by Sanpo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 20% ow
f, acetic acid (90%) (manufactured by Nippon Gosei Co., Ltd.) 2% owf aqueous solution, bath ratio 1:20, temperature; 95 ° C., soaking time; 30 minutes, and dyeing treatment by soaking. Squeezing and drying with a pin tenter (dryer) at a temperature of 130 ° C. for 60 seconds.

The cloth thus obtained had a melange tone in which unevenness was observed in the dyed state and the change in shade of the dyeing was emphasized.

Example 2 The dyeing method of the second invention was carried out as follows.

100% wool fiber, woven fabric; gabardine,
Unit weight: 420 g / m fabric, weaving spun yarn containing weft fibers subjected to shrink-proof processing using plain yarn as warp yarn to be dyed, and this fabric is pretreated with an anionic auxiliary agent The (first step) and the dyeing treatment with the anionic dye (second step) were carried out under the same treatment conditions as in Example 1 above.

The obtained fabric exhibited a melange tone in which the shade of the pattern due to dyeing was further strengthened as compared with Example 1 described above.

(Example 3) The following wool fiber cloth was subjected to the dyeing method of the third invention as follows.・ Cloth 100% wool fiber, woven structure; gabardine, fabric weight; 420
g / m 1st step (anion type auxiliary agent tank) Anion type auxiliary agent; Migregar 2N (special alkyl sulfate, manufactured by Senka Co.) 5% owf, formic acid 3% aqueous solution, bath ratio 1:20, temperature; 90 Immersion treatment was carried out for 30 minutes at a temperature of 130 ° C., and this was squeezed with a squeezing ratio of 60% and dried with a pin tenter (dryer) at a temperature of 130 ° C. for 60 seconds.

Second step (cationic dye bath) Cationic dye; Aizen Cathelon Bl
ue GLH (manufactured by Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd.), auxiliary agent: Ionet FY 104 (nonionic surfactant, manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 1% owf, ammonium acetate 2% owf aqueous solution, bath ratio 1:20, temperature 95 Dyeing treatment was carried out by dipping at a temperature of 90 ° C. for 5 minutes, squeezing at a squeezing ratio of 60%, and drying with a pin tenter (dryer) at a temperature of 90 ° C. for 180 seconds.

Third Step (Washing Tank) The dyed fabric is washed with a bath ratio of 1:20, a temperature of 20 ° C. and a soaking time of 5 minutes, and after washing with water, squeezing with a squeezing ratio of 60%,
Dried.

The obtained cloth had a melange tone in which the shade was emphasized, because the dye dyed by washing with water was partly dropped off to cause spots.

(Example 4) The following fabric was subjected to the dyeing method of the fourth invention as follows.

Cloth 100% wool fiber, woven structure; gabardine, fabric weight; 420
g / m First step (auxiliary agent tank) Reactive auxiliary agent: A-01 (reactive sulfamic acid, manufactured by Senka Co.) 10% owf aqueous solution, bath ratio 1:20, temperature 9
Immersion treatment was carried out at 0 ° C. for 30 minutes, and this was squeezed at a squeezing ratio of 60% and a temperature of 13 by a pin tenter (dryer)
It was dried at 0 ° C. for 60 seconds.

Second step (dye bath) Reactive dye: Lanasol Blue 3G (manufactured by Ciba Geigy) 1% owf and auxiliary agent: Na ₂ SO ₄ (manufactured by Sanpo Chemical Co.) 1% owf, CH ₃ COOH 2% owf,
Migregar 2N (special alkyl sulphate, manufactured by Senka) 1% owf aqueous solution, bath ratio 1:20, temperature 95
Dyeing treatment was carried out by dipping at a temperature of 130 ° C. for 30 minutes, squeezing at a squeezing ratio of 60%, and drying with a pin tenter (dryer) at a temperature of 130 ° C. for 60 seconds.

The fabric thus obtained had a melange tone in which the shade was clearly shown.

[0058]

As described above, according to the dyeing method of the present invention, it is possible to dye a woolen fabric with a melange-like dyeing, particularly a melange-like dyeing which emphasizes a change in shade.

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A first step of pretreating a woolen fabric with a solution of an anionic auxiliary agent, and a second step of immersing the treated fabric in a solution of anionic dyeing for dyeing. A melange dyeing method for cloth. 2. A wool fabric woven by using a spun yarn containing shrink-proof wool fiber for at least a part of both warp and weft, or a weft, is used as a dyeing object, and this fabric is a solution of an anionic auxiliary agent. A melange dyeing method for a cloth, comprising a first step of pretreating the cloth and a second step of immersing the cloth in an anionic dye solution for dyeing. 3. A first step of pretreating a wool cloth with a solution of an anionic auxiliary agent, a second step of immersing the treated cloth in a solution of a cationic dye, and dyeing the cloth by washing with water. A melange-like dyeing method for fabric, which comprises a third step of partially removing the dye. 4. A first step of pretreating a woolen fabric with a solution of an anionic or cationic reactive auxiliary agent, and immersing the treated fabric in a solution of anionic or cationic reactive dye to dye it. A melange dyeing method for a fabric, which comprises a second step.