Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A41—WEARING APPAREL
  • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
  • A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
  • A41D27/02—Linings
  • A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
  • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
  • D06M17/00—Producing multi-layer textile fabrics

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a fabric for reinforcement of collars generally called interlining and which constitutes the interior armor of the collars in the industry of male and female shirts and the industry of male and female clothing.
• these reinforcements are made from a classic fabric such as a canvas or other weave fabric cut obliquely or straight and inserted in the collars between two draperies, or a drapery and a felt from below. collar or between two poplin or any other fabric, etc. These fabrics are formed in weaving by warp threads or weft threads of the same direction of twist which have the defect of giving rise to a collar whose two points do not point in the same direction. One of the points points in the right direction, the other points in the opposite direction.
• a classic fabric such as a canvas or other weave fabric cut obliquely or straight and inserted in the collars between two draperies, or a drapery and a felt from below. collar or between two poplin or any other fabric, etc.
• These fabrics are formed in weaving by warp threads or weft threads of the same direction of twist which have the defect of giving rise to a collar whose two points do not point in the same direction.
• thermo ante interlining the coating is deposited on the fabric without taking into account the reaction of the fabric to deform, the latter obeying the law of the twisting of the threads.
• the present invention makes it possible to avoid these drawbacks by proposing a fabric for interlining which in particular makes it possible to obtain a collar whose two points curve in the same direction.
• the fabric according to the invention is remarkable in that it comprises two plies of parallel threads called main threads, linked together in a manner known per se, said plies being juxtaposed and linked together on either side of a line corresponding substantially to the axis of symmetry of the reinforced neck to be formed and that the wires of one of them are wires of right torsion while those of the other are of left torsion.
• the fabric thus defined forms a band whose width corresponds to the length of the collars to be formed or to a multiple of this length. Furthermore, it can be manufactured in such a way that the said main yarns of respectively reverse twists of the said plies are, in the context of the manufacture of the fabric, arranged either in the warp direction or in the weft direction.
• a fabric is thus formed which, after cutting strips intended to form the neck reinforcements made transversely to the line corresponding to the axis of symmetry defined above and each comprising a portion of length substantially equal on both sides of this line, have neck points which curve in the same direction due to the reverse twist of the main wires of each of the parts of the reinforcement or interlining situated respectively on either side of said line.
• account is taken of the direction of the deformation of the fabric.
• the coating must be deposited on the fabric in the direction of the deformation. In the case where it is desired to heat-bond the interlining on the top of the neck, the coating will be deposited on the face of the interlining deforming in the desired direction. If you want to heat seal the underside of the collar, you will coat on the other side of the fabric, in the opposite direction to the deformation. This point is important and cannot be reversed on pain of seeing the collar points point in the wrong direction.
• thermobonding can also be carried out in double face, that is to say that the interlining fabric is coated on both sides. In this case, it will be necessary to position the parts to be assembled in the right direction to obtain the desired result.
• the two juxtaposed plies of threads are arranged in a chain, (that is to say in the direction of manufacture or of the length of the fabric), one has right twist threads, the other has left twist threads. .
• the set of threads thus formed is tied on a loom or on a mesh loom with weft insertion or by any other type of weaving, with a weft thread (widthwise direction of the fabric) without twisting.
• the necks are then cut in the width direction of the fabric, that is to say transversely to the direction of manufacture of this fabric, the assembly of the two right and left plies thus defined and constituting the overall ply substantially representing the dimension of a neck.
• the two plies juxtaposed with right and left twist threads are linked with a chemical binder deposited on the overall ply in the form of continuous or discontinuous lines, films, cross engraving or any other design, by needling, by fusion of 'a fusible nonwoven or fusible yarns or fusible grids, or by any other similar means.
• each set of two successive right and left zones in the direction of fabric manufacture corresponds to the length of a collar, each set being separated from the previous and the following by a colored thread.
• the necks are cut in the lengthwise direction of the fabric.
• the two juxtaposed zones of main threads of right and left twist are linked in rows of stitches on loom or weft insertion loom across the width of the fabric.
• the fabric according to the invention can adapt to variations and changes in fashion, the direction of direction of the collar points can be adjusted by varying the number of twists of the threads to obtain either a maximum rolling effect, or an absolutely flat effect, or a contrary effect. Consequently, it is obvious that, taking into account the variations in fashion, each of the examples given above may, for successive determined periods, constitute the best way of carrying out the invention according to the requirements of rigidity, flexibility or the like. which will then be required.
• the present invention thus relates to a fabric which brings a marked improvement in quality, a beautiful presentation and regularity in the manufacture of the finished product, that is to say, clothing collars.
• the fabric for interlining may comprise, in each of the straight and reverse torsion zones, areas formed by son of forces different, in particular with a view to forming reinforcement zones for the neck points.
• the fabric according to the invention optionally receives, on one of its faces or on its two faces, a coating of fusible product applied in any known manner.
• each interlining intended to be each inserted into a neck is cut so that, whatever the fabric manufacturing process, each interlining extends substantially symmetrically on either side of the line corresponding to the axis of symmetry of the neck defined above.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Details Of Garments (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=26220452

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (3)

Citations (4)

• 1979
  • 1979-02-16 WO PCT/FR1979/000014 patent/WO1979000633A1/fr unknown
  • 1979-02-16 EP EP79400099A patent/EP0005086A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 1979-02-16 JP JP50036979A patent/JPS55500083A/ja active Pending

Patent Citations (4)

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