EP0005086A1 - Garment collar strengthening fabric, process for its manufacture and process for manufacturing a collar containing it - Google Patents
Garment collar strengthening fabric, process for its manufacture and process for manufacturing a collar containing it Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0005086A1 EP0005086A1 EP79400099A EP79400099A EP0005086A1 EP 0005086 A1 EP0005086 A1 EP 0005086A1 EP 79400099 A EP79400099 A EP 79400099A EP 79400099 A EP79400099 A EP 79400099A EP 0005086 A1 EP0005086 A1 EP 0005086A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- interlining
- twist
- threads
- collar
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/02—Linings
- A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M17/00—Producing multi-layer textile fabrics
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a fabric for reinforcement of collars generally called interlining and which constitutes the interior armor of the collars in the industry of male and female shirts and the industry of male and female clothing.
- these reinforcements are made from a classic fabric such as a canvas or other weave fabric cut obliquely or straight and inserted in the collars between two draperies, or a drapery and a felt from below. collar or between two poplin or any other fabric, etc. These fabrics are formed in weaving by warp threads or weft threads of the same direction of twist which have the defect of giving rise to a collar whose two points do not point in the same direction. One of the points points in the right direction, the other points in the opposite direction.
- a classic fabric such as a canvas or other weave fabric cut obliquely or straight and inserted in the collars between two draperies, or a drapery and a felt from below. collar or between two poplin or any other fabric, etc.
- These fabrics are formed in weaving by warp threads or weft threads of the same direction of twist which have the defect of giving rise to a collar whose two points do not point in the same direction.
- thermo ante interlining the coating is deposited on the fabric without taking into account the reaction of the fabric to deform, the latter obeying the law of the twisting of the threads.
- the present invention makes it possible to avoid these drawbacks by proposing a fabric for interlining which in particular makes it possible to obtain a collar whose two points curve in the same direction.
- the fabric according to the invention is remarkable in that it comprises two plies of parallel threads called main threads, linked together in a manner known per se, said plies being juxtaposed and linked together on either side of a line corresponding substantially to the axis of symmetry of the reinforced neck to be formed and that the wires of one of them are wires of right torsion while those of the other are of left torsion.
- the fabric thus defined forms a band whose width corresponds to the length of the collars to be formed or to a multiple of this length. Furthermore, it can be manufactured in such a way that the said main yarns of respectively reverse twists of the said plies are, in the context of the manufacture of the fabric, arranged either in the warp direction or in the weft direction.
- a fabric is thus formed which, after cutting strips intended to form the neck reinforcements made transversely to the line corresponding to the axis of symmetry defined above and each comprising a portion of length substantially equal on both sides of this line, have neck points which curve in the same direction due to the reverse twist of the main wires of each of the parts of the reinforcement or interlining situated respectively on either side of said line.
- account is taken of the direction of the deformation of the fabric.
- the coating must be deposited on the fabric in the direction of the deformation. In the case where it is desired to heat-bond the interlining on the top of the neck, the coating will be deposited on the face of the interlining deforming in the desired direction. If you want to heat seal the underside of the collar, you will coat on the other side of the fabric, in the opposite direction to the deformation. This point is important and cannot be reversed on pain of seeing the collar points point in the wrong direction.
- thermobonding can also be carried out in double face, that is to say that the interlining fabric is coated on both sides. In this case, it will be necessary to position the parts to be assembled in the right direction to obtain the desired result.
- the two juxtaposed plies of threads are arranged in a chain, (that is to say in the direction of manufacture or of the length of the fabric), one has right twist threads, the other has left twist threads. .
- the set of threads thus formed is tied on a loom or on a mesh loom with weft insertion or by any other type of weaving, with a weft thread (widthwise direction of the fabric) without twisting.
- the necks are then cut in the width direction of the fabric, that is to say transversely to the direction of manufacture of this fabric, the assembly of the two right and left plies thus defined and constituting the overall ply substantially representing the dimension of a neck.
- the two plies juxtaposed with right and left twist threads are linked with a chemical binder deposited on the overall ply in the form of continuous or discontinuous lines, films, cross engraving or any other design, by needling, by fusion of 'a fusible nonwoven or fusible yarns or fusible grids, or by any other similar means.
- each set of two successive right and left zones in the direction of fabric manufacture corresponds to the length of a collar, each set being separated from the previous and the following by a colored thread.
- the necks are cut in the lengthwise direction of the fabric.
- the two juxtaposed zones of main threads of right and left twist are linked in rows of stitches on loom or weft insertion loom across the width of the fabric.
- the fabric according to the invention can adapt to variations and changes in fashion, the direction of direction of the collar points can be adjusted by varying the number of twists of the threads to obtain either a maximum rolling effect, or an absolutely flat effect, or a contrary effect. Consequently, it is obvious that, taking into account the variations in fashion, each of the examples given above may, for successive determined periods, constitute the best way of carrying out the invention according to the requirements of rigidity, flexibility or the like. which will then be required.
- the present invention thus relates to a fabric which brings a marked improvement in quality, a beautiful presentation and regularity in the manufacture of the finished product, that is to say, clothing collars.
- the fabric for interlining may comprise, in each of the straight and reverse torsion zones, areas formed by son of forces different, in particular with a view to forming reinforcement zones for the neck points.
- the fabric according to the invention optionally receives, on one of its faces or on its two faces, a coating of fusible product applied in any known manner.
- each interlining intended to be each inserted into a neck is cut so that, whatever the fabric manufacturing process, each interlining extends substantially symmetrically on either side of the line corresponding to the axis of symmetry of the neck defined above.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
Abstract
Description
La présente invention concerne un tissu pour renfort de cols généralement nommé triplure et qui constitue l'armure intérieure des cols dans l'industrie de la chemiserie masculine et féminine et l'industrie du vêtement masculin et féminin.The present invention relates to a fabric for reinforcement of collars generally called interlining and which constitutes the interior armor of the collars in the industry of male and female shirts and the industry of male and female clothing.
On sait que ces renforts se font à partir d'un tissu classique tel qu'une toile ou un tissu d'autre armure découpé en biais ou en droit fil et intercalé dans les cols entre deux draperies, ou une draperie et un feutre de dessous de col ou entre deux popelines ou tout autre tissu, etc. Ces tissus sont formés au tissage par des fils de chaine ou des fils de trame de même sens de torsion qui ont le défaut de donner naissance à un col dont les deux pointes ne se dirigent pas dans le même sens. L' une des pointes va dans le bon sens, l'autre se dirige dans le sens contraire.We know that these reinforcements are made from a classic fabric such as a canvas or other weave fabric cut obliquely or straight and inserted in the collars between two draperies, or a drapery and a felt from below. collar or between two poplin or any other fabric, etc. These fabrics are formed in weaving by warp threads or weft threads of the same direction of twist which have the defect of giving rise to a collar whose two points do not point in the same direction. One of the points points in the right direction, the other points in the opposite direction.
Par ailleurs, dans les triplures thermocoll antes connues, l'enduction est déposée sur le tissu sans tenir compte de la réaction du tissu à se déformer, celui-ci obéissant à la loi de la torsion des fils.Furthermore, in known thermo ante interlining, the coating is deposited on the fabric without taking into account the reaction of the fabric to deform, the latter obeying the law of the twisting of the threads.
La présente invention permet d'éviter ces inconvénients en proposant un tissu pour triplure permettant notamment d'obtenir un col dont les deux pointes s'incurvent dans le même sens.The present invention makes it possible to avoid these drawbacks by proposing a fabric for interlining which in particular makes it possible to obtain a collar whose two points curve in the same direction.
Le tissu selon l'invention est remarquable en ce qu'il comporte deux nappes de fils parallèles dits fils principaux, liés entre eux de façon en elle même connue, les dites nappes étant juxtaposées et liées entre elles de part et d'autre d'une ligne correspondant sensiblement à l'axe de symétrie du col renforcé à constituer et que les fils de l'une d'elles sont des fils de torsion droite tandis que ceux de l'autre sont de torsion gauche.The fabric according to the invention is remarkable in that it comprises two plies of parallel threads called main threads, linked together in a manner known per se, said plies being juxtaposed and linked together on either side of a line corresponding substantially to the axis of symmetry of the reinforced neck to be formed and that the wires of one of them are wires of right torsion while those of the other are of left torsion.
Le tissu ainsi défini forme une bande dont la largeur correspond à la longueur des cols à constituer ou à un multiple de cette longueur. Par ailleurs, il peut être fabriqué de manière telles que les dits fils principaux de torsions respectivement inverses des dites nappes soient, dans le cadre de la fabrication du tissu, disposés soit dans la direction chaine, soit dans la direction trame.The fabric thus defined forms a band whose width corresponds to the length of the collars to be formed or to a multiple of this length. Furthermore, it can be manufactured in such a way that the said main yarns of respectively reverse twists of the said plies are, in the context of the manufacture of the fabric, arranged either in the warp direction or in the weft direction.
Il est ainsi constitué un tissu qui, après découpe de bandes destinées à former les renforts de col effectuée transversalement à la ligne correspondant à l'axe de symétrie défini ci-dessus et comportant chacune une portion de longueur sensiblement égale de part et d'autre de cette ligne, présentent des pointes de col qui s'incurvent dans le même sens en raison de la torsion inverse des fils principaux de chacune des parties du renfort ou triplure situées respectivement de part et d'autre de la dite ligne.A fabric is thus formed which, after cutting strips intended to form the neck reinforcements made transversely to the line corresponding to the axis of symmetry defined above and each comprising a portion of length substantially equal on both sides of this line, have neck points which curve in the same direction due to the reverse twist of the main wires of each of the parts of the reinforcement or interlining situated respectively on either side of said line.
Par ailleurs selon un autre aspect de la présente invention, on tient compte du sens de la déformation du tissu. L'enduction doit être déposée sur le tissu dans le sens de la déformation. Dans le cas où l'on désire thermocoller la triplure sur le dessus du col, l'enduction sera déposée sur la face de la triplure se déformant dans le sens souhaité. Dans le cas où l'on désire thermocoller le dessous du col, on enduira sur l'autre face du tissu, dans le sens contraire à la déformation. Ce point est important et ne peut être inversé sous peine de voir les pointes de cols se diriger dans le mauvais sens.Furthermore, according to another aspect of the present invention, account is taken of the direction of the deformation of the fabric. The coating must be deposited on the fabric in the direction of the deformation. In the case where it is desired to heat-bond the interlining on the top of the neck, the coating will be deposited on the face of the interlining deforming in the desired direction. If you want to heat seal the underside of the collar, you will coat on the other side of the fabric, in the opposite direction to the deformation. This point is important and cannot be reversed on pain of seeing the collar points point in the wrong direction.
Le thermocollage peut également se réaliser en double face, c'est-à-dire que le tissu triplure est enduit sur les deux faces. Dans ce cas, il faudra positionner les pièces à assembler dans le bon sens pour obtenir le résultat souhaité.The thermobonding can also be carried out in double face, that is to say that the interlining fabric is coated on both sides. In this case, it will be necessary to position the parts to be assembled in the right direction to obtain the desired result.
Il sera donné ci-après, de façon non limitative, des exemples de procédés de fabrication d'un tissu selon l' invention.Examples of methods for manufacturing a fabric according to the invention will be given hereinafter, without limitation.
Les deux nappes juxtaposées de fils sont disposées en chaine,(c'est-à-dire dans le sens de la fabrication ou de la longueur du tissu) l'une comporte des fils de torsion droite, l'autre des fils de torsion gauche. La nappe d' ensemble de fils ainsi constituée est liée sur un métier à tisser ou sur un métier maille à insertion de trame ou par tout autre type de tissage, avec un fil de trame (sens de la largeur du tissu) sans torsion. Le découpage des cols se fait alors dans le sens de la largeur du tissu, c'est-à-dire transversalement au sens de fabrication de ce tissu, l'ensemble des deux nappes droite et gauche ainsi définies et constituant la nappe d'ensemble représentant sensiblement la dimension d'un col.The two juxtaposed plies of threads are arranged in a chain, (that is to say in the direction of manufacture or of the length of the fabric), one has right twist threads, the other has left twist threads. . The set of threads thus formed is tied on a loom or on a mesh loom with weft insertion or by any other type of weaving, with a weft thread (widthwise direction of the fabric) without twisting. The necks are then cut in the width direction of the fabric, that is to say transversely to the direction of manufacture of this fabric, the assembly of the two right and left plies thus defined and constituting the overall ply substantially representing the dimension of a neck.
Les deux nappes juxtaposées de fils torsion droite et gauche sont liées avec un liant chimique déposé sur la nappe d'ensemble sous forme de lignes continues ou discontinues, de films, de gravure en croix ou de tout autre dessin, par aiguilletage, par fusion d'un non tissé fusible ou de fils fusibles ou de grilles fusibles, ou par tout autre moyen analogue.The two plies juxtaposed with right and left twist threads are linked with a chemical binder deposited on the overall ply in the form of continuous or discontinuous lines, films, cross engraving or any other design, by needling, by fusion of 'a fusible nonwoven or fusible yarns or fusible grids, or by any other similar means.
Il est constitué une nappe de fils sans torsion en chaine (sens de la longueur du tissu) et de zones de fils principaux disposés en trame (sens de la largeur du tissu) comprenant chacune une zone de fils de torsion droite et une zone de fils de torsion gauche. La largeur de chaque ensemble de deux zones droite et gauche successifs dans le sens de la fabrication du tissu correspond à la longueur d'un col, chaque ensemble étant séparé du précédent et du suivant par un fil de couleur. Le découpage des col se fait dans le sens de la longueur du tissu.It consists of a layer of warp-free twist yarn (lengthwise direction of the fabric) and main yarn areas arranged in a weft (widthwise direction of the fabric) each comprising a straight twist yarn area and a yarn area left torsion. The width of each set of two successive right and left zones in the direction of fabric manufacture corresponds to the length of a collar, each set being separated from the previous and the following by a colored thread. The necks are cut in the lengthwise direction of the fabric.
Les deux zones juxtaposées de fils principaux de torsion droite et gauche sont liés dans des rangées de mailles sur métier maille ou métier à insertion de trame dans le sens de la largeur du tissu.The two juxtaposed zones of main threads of right and left twist are linked in rows of stitches on loom or weft insertion loom across the width of the fabric.
Il est évident que la nature de la matière textile du tissu, la composition des fils utilisés classiques ou fils continus, le numéro métrique des fils, la présence de fils de différentes forces pour former des zones de renfort de pointes, la découpe en biais ou en droit fil du tissu, l' armure du tissu (toile, satin, sergé, jersey, insertion frontale de trame, maille, etc.) la contexture du tissu (nombre de fils ou de duites), le traitement d'apprêt du tissu, le nombre de renforts, l'épaisseur des renforts, la dimension des cols et des renforts, la forme des cols et des renforts, ainsi que tous détails d'exécution ne nuisent en rien au principe de l'invention.It is obvious that the nature of the textile material of the fabric, the composition of the threads used conventional or continuous threads, the metric number of the threads, the presence of threads of different strengths to form areas of reinforcement of points, the bias cut or in straight thread of the fabric, the weave of the fabric (canvas, satin, twill, jersey, frontal insertion of weft, mesh, etc.) the texture of the fabric (number of threads or picks), the fabric finishing treatment , the number of reinforcements, the thickness of the reinforcements, the size of the collars and reinforcements, the shape of the collars and reinforcements, as well as all details of execution in no way detract from the principle of the invention.
Le tissu suivant l'invention peut s'adapter aux variations et changement de la mode, le sens de direction des pointes de cols peuvent être réglées en faisant varier le nombre de tours de torsion des fils pour obtenir soit un effet maximun de roulage, soit un effet absolument plat, soit un effet contraire. En conséquence, il est évident que, compte tenu des variations de la mode, chacun des exemples donnés ci-dessus pourra, pour des époques déterminées successives, constituer la meilleure manière de réaliser l'invention selon les impératifs de rigidité, de souplesse ou autres qui seront alors exigés.The fabric according to the invention can adapt to variations and changes in fashion, the direction of direction of the collar points can be adjusted by varying the number of twists of the threads to obtain either a maximum rolling effect, or an absolutely flat effect, or a contrary effect. Consequently, it is obvious that, taking into account the variations in fashion, each of the examples given above may, for successive determined periods, constitute the best way of carrying out the invention according to the requirements of rigidity, flexibility or the like. which will then be required.
La présente invention concerne ainsi un tissu qui apporte une nette amélioration de la qualité, une belle présentation et une régularité dans la fabrication du produit fini, c'est-à-dire des cols de vêtements.The present invention thus relates to a fabric which brings a marked improvement in quality, a beautiful presentation and regularity in the manufacture of the finished product, that is to say, clothing collars.
Il doit être de plus précisé que, selon l'une des caractéristiques de l'invention, le tissu pour triplure peut comporter, dans chacune des zones droite et g auche de torsion inverse, des plages constituées par des fils de forces différentes, notamment en vue de former des zones de renfort pour les pointes de col.It should also be specified that, according to one of the characteristics of the invention, the fabric for interlining may comprise, in each of the straight and reverse torsion zones, areas formed by son of forces different, in particular with a view to forming reinforcement zones for the neck points.
Après fabrication, le tissu selon l'invention reçoit éventuellement, sur l'une de ses faces ou sur ses deux faces, une enduction de produit thermocollant appliquée de toute manière connue.After manufacture, the fabric according to the invention optionally receives, on one of its faces or on its two faces, a coating of fusible product applied in any known manner.
La découpe des triplures de renfort destinées à être insérées chacune dans un col s'effectue de manière que, quelque soit le procédé de fabrication du tissu,chaque triplure s'étende de façon sensiblement symétrique de part et d'autre de la ligne correspondant à l'axe de symétrie du col défini ci-dessus.The reinforcement interlining intended to be each inserted into a neck is cut so that, whatever the fabric manufacturing process, each interlining extends substantially symmetrically on either side of the line corresponding to the axis of symmetry of the neck defined above.
Claims (9)
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR7804997A FR2417578A1 (en) | 1978-02-16 | 1978-02-16 | Collar stiffening interlining - of two bonded layers of parallel, twisted yarns, the yarns of each layer being of opposite twist, to avoid collar distortion |
| FR7804998A FR2417569A1 (en) | 1978-02-16 | 1978-02-16 | Collar stiffening interlining - of two bonded layers of parallel, twisted yarns, the yarns of each layer being of opposite twist, to avoid collar distortion |
| FR7804998 | 1978-02-16 | ||
| FR7804997 | 1978-02-16 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP0005086A1 true EP0005086A1 (en) | 1979-10-31 |
Family
ID=26220452
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP79400099A Withdrawn EP0005086A1 (en) | 1978-02-16 | 1979-02-16 | Garment collar strengthening fabric, process for its manufacture and process for manufacturing a collar containing it |
Country Status (3)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP0005086A1 (en) |
| JP (1) | JPS55500083A (en) |
| WO (1) | WO1979000633A1 (en) |
Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CH198387A (en) * | 1937-05-07 | 1938-06-30 | Raduner & Co Ag | Starting material for the production of non-rolling, stiffened fabrics, in particular non-rolling, permanently stiffened fabrics. |
| US2377933A (en) * | 1941-07-31 | 1945-06-12 | Celanese Corp | Composite fabric |
| CH312716A (en) * | 1953-12-03 | 1956-02-29 | Auer Alfred | Method for stiffening clothing parts and clothing part stiffened by this method |
| DE1610658A1 (en) * | 1965-02-04 | 1971-05-19 | Flii Bertero & Co Spa | Process for the manufacture of jackets and similar items of clothing |
-
1979
- 1979-02-16 EP EP79400099A patent/EP0005086A1/en not_active Withdrawn
- 1979-02-16 JP JP50036979A patent/JPS55500083A/ja active Pending
- 1979-02-16 WO PCT/FR1979/000014 patent/WO1979000633A1/en unknown
Patent Citations (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CH198387A (en) * | 1937-05-07 | 1938-06-30 | Raduner & Co Ag | Starting material for the production of non-rolling, stiffened fabrics, in particular non-rolling, permanently stiffened fabrics. |
| US2377933A (en) * | 1941-07-31 | 1945-06-12 | Celanese Corp | Composite fabric |
| CH312716A (en) * | 1953-12-03 | 1956-02-29 | Auer Alfred | Method for stiffening clothing parts and clothing part stiffened by this method |
| DE1610658A1 (en) * | 1965-02-04 | 1971-05-19 | Flii Bertero & Co Spa | Process for the manufacture of jackets and similar items of clothing |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| JPS55500083A (en) | 1980-02-14 |
| WO1979000633A1 (en) | 1979-09-06 |
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Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| PUAI | Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase |
Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012 |
|
| AK | Designated contracting states |
Designated state(s): BE CH DE GB IT NL SE |
|
| STAA | Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent |
Free format text: STATUS: THE APPLICATION IS DEEMED TO BE WITHDRAWN |
|
| 110E | Request filed for conversion into a national patent application [according to art. 135 epc] | ||
| 18D | Application deemed to be withdrawn | ||
| RIN1 | Information on inventor provided before grant (corrected) |
Inventor name: FAVIERE, MICHEL |