US1643497A - Apparel collar - Google Patents

Description

P. F. HEssE APPAREL COLLAR Filed March l5, 1926 2 Sheets-Sheet l 2 eet Sheets-Sh Il if,

Mar

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7. t 27, 192 Sep Patented` Sept. 27, 1927.

` umrEDsi-ATES iPATENT 'l oFFIcE.

v'LJAUL '.F. HESSE, 0F 'PAWTUCKET, RHODE ISLAND.

APPAREL COLLAR.

Application filed ,March 15, 1926. Serial No. 94,847.

VThis invention .relates :to `apparelcollars fand, .particularly to ,the .socalled .soft .turnecbdown collars whichhave a sufficient degreeof ,inherentstiffness to renderthem .self-supporting so that lthey may beworn without starching;

VMost collars of this type are made np either of several layers .ofl fabric stitched together, .or of ,strips .of multiply fabric having .the .several 'plies interwoven with binder threads. rThe former .type of folding collar has never vbeen .entirely satisfac- .tory .owing `.to its flimsy appearance andinsufficient inherent .stiffness to prevent from wrinkling .and wilting under the effect of 'perspiration when worn. Multiply fabric `collars possess the necessary inherent stiffness and self-supporting characteristics and. have become extremely popular for gentlemens .weaigfbut thisv latter type of collar is relatively. 'expensiveI to manufacture and must .be sold ata .considerably higher price than Vthe multilayer type .of collar, either of the soft or starched variety. It kis. therefore one object of the present 'invention to provide .a .collar ldevoid 4of the flimsy character of the ordinary multi-layer .soft collar .and having all theattributes of .the more popular multiply collar, yet capable .of being manufactured atv .much less cost than theflatter. I' f l i To provideV` the improv` d collaryof-thetype specifiedY the presentfinvent-ion contem- .plates the use of a,- peculiar character rofweave to produce a.y relatively thick yet lpliable fabric, which, when incorporated inv the. collar, gives Vthe required degree of stiffness thereto so that it will nbe selflsupporting without additional reinforcing means and also capable of resisting the wilting .tendlency `from dampness l The following specification describes several methods of carrying out the invention, .andvv the accompanying drawings illustrate Vthe preferrledembodiment thereof. VIn the drawings Fig. l is a planv'iewshow'ing a collar-of conventional shape in fits fla'tform, as illustrative Yof one embodiment of' 'the' inven- ,tion-5v f -V Fig.. 2 is .an enlarged sectional view taken on -line 2-'2 of Fig. 1 and illustrating .a preferred method of joining the two foldingl parts of the collar, and also themannerof .selvedge edge i' or the present type of collar comprisesa necki band 2 and an outer portion or :exposed panel 3 adapted to fold down around the neclrband. The complete collar 'may be wovengin. .one piece, but preferably itis made up of two strips of fabric, onefor the neclrband 2 and the other for ythe outer panel 3f. lWhen .constructed in two pieces the neckband 2 is preferably woven with a Atwo-'ply strip-it, L extending along its upper edge,'whereby vto provide a reentrant channelpr y opening 5 into which is inserted .the y the votherv strip of fabric which f yforms the'outer panel 3 of the collar, see-Fig. 2.y lVith this construction of .the

'collar .the double-ply portion of theneckband. 2 .overlaps bothv sides ofthe selvedge Yedge ofthe panel 3 and. is secured. thereto by several rows of stitches indicated at 8.

Itis desirable yto provide means to adapt .the outer' panel 3V of the collar to fold ,smoothly and evenly von a line contiguous to its joinder with the neclrband 2, and forV thispurpose any suitable fold line or foldguide may beincorporated in the fabric ofthe collar. Apreferred method Vof providingv lthe fold line `is described and illustrated lin `my pending application for U. S. Patent Serial No. 518,531, filed November ,29, 19,21. The invention of this prior application consists in providing a fold line -constituted by .a twill weave extending in a nar.

vrow str-ip or band 9 longitudinally of the up'- per .edge of the outer panel 3. of the collar. In this twill-strip the threads are woven on .a bias to provide a more flexible folding portion, which, nevertheless, is constituted by the same number of threads or yarns as the body of thecollar so that the `strength and wearing lquality ofv the fabric is preserved.' In other words, the fabric is not weakened or reduced by eliminating any of the threads and therefore the completed collarwill not deteriorate unduly from wear or from the repeated action of folding or bending it.

As another means for providing the fold line or guide for the collar I may incorporate in the fabric an enlarged cord 10, as illustrated in Fig. 3 of the present drawings and more fully described in my United States Letters Patent No. 1,545,187, dated July 7, It is to be understood, however, that the method. or means for providing the fold line which extends longitudinally of the top of the main or outer panel 3 of the collar is not essential to the present invention, as any preferred practice may be adopted for this purpose.

As before stated, the present invention resides in the peculiar character of the weave of the fabric employed in the manufacture of collars of the type specified, and Fig. 4 illustrates diagrammatically a preferred method of intermeshing the yarns in the weave to secure the desired result; In this view the reference characters 12 and 13 designate the Warp ends or yarns running longitudinally of the fabric, and longitudinally of the strip or strips which form the collar; while the lateral weft or lilling threads are designated 14. To provide a fabric of the required thickness and stiifness I incorporate therein alternate tight and slack warp threads intermeshed with the weft yarns in any suitable order and functioning in the manner as later explained.

In accordance with the preferred character of weave as illustrated in Fig. 4 of the drawings, the tight warp ends 12 are combined in pairs, or, in other words, woven double to increase the bulk and thickness of the fabric. Each pair of tight warp ends 12 may be considered as a single yarn` however, for in some instances I may employ a single end of coarser or heavier yarn in place of the two ends. In either case the single or double tight warp ends 12 alternate with the slack warp ends 13 which are woven relatively loose, as indicated in Fig. 4. The picks of vfilling 14 are preferably interwoven with the warp ends in alternate order, that is under and over the alternate tight and slack Warp ends, but the orde'r of the weave may be varied to some extent if desired. It will be understood that Fig. 4 illustrates the weave in open mesh, that is with the yarns widely spaced apart, whereas as a matter of fact in the finished fabric the yarns will be woven lclose together and tightly compacted. y

Fig. 5 illustrates the weave in cross-section or profile and shows the filling or weft threadsY 14 more closely spaced, although not beaten -up into the relation which they assumel in the finished fabric. This view more clearly illustrates the arrangement of the threads in the weave, and indicates the manner in which the tight warp threads cooperate with the slack Warp ends to give the body and thickness to the cloth. It will be observed by reference to this view that the slack warp threads 13 pass over and under the weft threads 14 in loops which run substantially perpendicular to the face of the cloth, while the tight warp ends 12 are drawn taut to separate and support the weft threads in two distinct planes, one on each face of the goods. The two tight warp threads 12 are shown in Fig. 5 as disposed one above the other, and this is substantially the position that the two ends of each pair assume when the filling is beaten up at the fell of the cloth during the weaving operation.

Fig. 6 is a highly magnified view illustrating more accurately the disposition and arrangement of the threads in the finished fabric. It will be observed from this view that the weft threads 14 are beaten up into close juxtaposition and that they lie in two opposite parallel planes corresponding substantially to the two opposite faces of the cloth. vThe slack warp yarns y13 are looped back and forth over these two sets of weft ends 14 in such manner that they form .iioats7 extending at substantially rightangles to the face of the fabric. Extending longitudinally of the fabric and parallel with its opposite faces are the tight warp ends 12 which form an intermediate separating medium for ther two sets of filling threads on the opposite faces of the fabric. That is to say, the tight Warp ends 12 provide a sort of filler for the fabric to space the weft ends in two opposite planes whereby to .give thickness and body to the cloth. It Y has been noted that the tight warp ends are preferably woven double in order to increase their effect in separating the weft ends to thicken the fabric, but in other cases I may employ a coarser or heavier 'yarn for the tig it Warp ends. For example, wherel I have obtained most satisfactory results by weaving the tight Warp ends double with a 26/2 yarn, I may employ a single end of 13/21 yarn to obtain substantially the same resu t.

It will be noted from Fig. 6 that the surface of the cloth has a more 0r less Aribbed.

'or corded appearance, somewhat like a piqu fabric, due to the alinement of the rows of loops of the slack warp threads 13 across the face of the goods, this effect being somewhat exaggerated in the drawing. In practice, while the fabric shows this ribbed effect on its face in its rough or unfinished state, when the cloth is calendered or ironed its surface will become substantially smooth.

Vith the preferred character of weave as above explained the fabric is given a'greater thickness and whereby itis equalgif not superior, tothe usual ymultiply fabrics l as heretofore used for coll-ars of lthe present type. n the other hand, present Vtype of fabric is 'much more economical to weave,

'due te the less number of vwarp and weft threads required to the linchV in the goods, land also because the weave is much simpler andless'diiiicult to produce. 'YV-here in multij whole number of ends required. Moreover,

by employing coarser yarns I save approximately per cent in the cost of the fine counts used in multiply fabrics. As another advantage, th-e present weave can be produced with less care and attention on the part of the weaver, and less liability of breaks, requiring piecing up, so that there are fewer stoppages in the weaving and consequently a higher rate of production can be maintained. The only change required from the ordinary weaving process is to provide separate sets of warpsvdelivering from different beams, `with one set maintained under a maximum tension and the other set allowed to float more or less loosely through the fabric.

lt has been stated that the improved collar illlustrated in Fig. l may be made either from a single piece of fabric, or from two strips joined together at their longitudinal edges as illustrated in Figs. 2 and 3 of the drawings. The fabric for the ,collar may be stretched over conical or fluted rolls duringy the weaving process, as is the usualV practice, to impart to 1t a curvilinear set..

to adapt the collar to fold on a curvilinear line, whereby it will assume a smootherl and neater appearance in use. Where the collar is made in one piece the whole fabric may be of 'the improved weave hereinV described, but in other cases when made in two pieces the parts `may be of different weaves. As

vshown in Fig. l, the finished collar isvprovided with the usual button-holes 15 and its edge may be hemmed or bound with an overlying strip in accordance with the common practice. y

lt will be observed that my invention provides A`an improved apparel collar of the type specified wherein vthe fabric has the required body and stiffness peculiar to multiply fabric collars, to render it capable of being folded smoothly and to be worn unstarched while yet preserving its neat vand unwrinkled appearance. Furthermore, my improved collar can be manufactured by r a simple weaving' process for the fabric,`

fabrics it is necessary to weave. ap- 'proximatelyQl-" ends of war-p and 104 to which', produc-ing the desirable 4and vnecessary attributes of a multiply fabric collar, is, at thesa-me timefmuch more eco- 'nomical to manufacture. improved collar .also possesses lthe `quality -o'f greater ldu- '1" rabil'ity and `wzl-lil .not deteriorate rapidly 'from' reoea-ted foldinns or from continued y h y n viilear.`

lVhile I havefherein described and -illustrated :a preferred embodiment yof the innenti-on, vit will be understood that various modlisations may be made both in themeth- :od .of weaving the fabric :and inthe manner oif formingthe collar therefromf without departing ifromfthe spirit or scope .of the inin this respect, I claim:

1. An apparel collar constitutedby one or more strips of single ply fabric composed of warp and weft threads of substantially the same size, the weft threads being disposed in two separate planes on the opposite sides of the fabric with those in each plane arranged in close juxtaposition, the warp threads being interwoven with lthe weft threads .with certain of said warp threads drawn tight to separate the weft threads intor the two planes, and certain other warp threads being left slack and looped back and forthl around the weft threads with portions extending substantiallyy -perpendicular to the face of the fabric whereby the structure of the Weave imparts body and thickness to the fabric to` inherently self-supporting them into the fabric with portions of saidA loose warp threads extending substantially perpendicular to the face of the fab-ric, and the whole forming astructure of such thickness as to give' body and stiffness to the collar to render it inherently self-supporting. n n

3. As a new article of manufacture, an apparel collar constituted by one or more strips of single ply fabric having a structure composed of weft threads and warp threads of substantially the same size, with the weft threads separated into two planes and disposed in close juxtaposition on opposite faces of the cloth by means of tight' warp threads extending between the twoV l so mention. Therefore, without limiting myself IDO sets of weft threads of the opposite planes and serving as aliller for the cloth, and other Warp threads looped back and forth around the individual weft threads of the two sets in the opposite planes whereby to bind them into the structure and provide a fabric having suliicient body and thickness to render the collar inherently self-supportlng.

a. As a new article of manufacture, an apparel collar of the soft folded type con stituted by one or more strips of single ply fabric comprising Warp and weft threads of substantially the saine size, .the Warp threads being` alternately tight and slack -and intermeshed over and under alternate weft threads with the tight Warp threads separating the latter into two distinctplanes and serving as a filler for the fabric, the weft threads in both planes beingarranged in close juxtaposition. on opposite faces of the fabric With the slack Warp threads looped back and forth thereover and all of Vthe threads compacted into a rclose Weave to impart body and stiffness to the vfabric whereby to render the collar inherently self-,supporting Without starch or other added stiffening means. a

In testimony' whereof I affix Iny signature.

PAULv F. HESSE.

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