DE19931310A1 - Cosmetic and dermatological use of phospholipid compounds especially ceramide compounds, for enhancing skin tanning and for stimulation of melanogenesis - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of phospholipid compounds is claimed in cosmetic and dermatological compositions for enhancing natural tanning and to stimulate melanogenesis of human skin.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations for Tanning of the skin.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. While rays with a wavelength smaller than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range), absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere be, cause rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the soge called UVB, erythema, simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

As a maximum of the erythema efficiency of sunlight becomes the narrower area indicated at 308 nm.

To protect against UVB radiation, numerous compounds are known in which It is mostly derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, the 4-aminobenzoic acid, the Cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and 2-phenylbenzimid zols acts.

Also for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA Area, it is important to have filter substances available as well Radiation can cause damage. So it is proven that UVA radiation to a Damage to the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue leads to what the Skin ages prematurely, and that they are the cause of numerous phototoxic and  photoallergic reactions can be seen. The damaging influence of UVB radiation can be amplified by UVA radiation.

UVA radiation can also cause skin damage by the skin's own Keratin or elastin is damaged. This will elasticity and Wasserspei reduced capacity of the skin, d. H. The skin becomes less supple and tends to Wrinkling. The remarkably high incidence of skin cancer in areas of strong suns irradiation shows that apparently damage to the genetic information in the cell be caused by sunlight, especially by UVA radiation.

The UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemical reaction products interfere with the skin metabolism.

Predominantly, such photochemical reaction products are radi kalische connections, z. B. hydroxyl radicals. Also undefined radical Photopro because of their high reactivity uncontrolled follow-up reactions to the day. But also singlet oxygen, a Non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can under UV irradiation occur, as are short-lived epoxides and many others. Singlet oxygen, for example is distinguished from the normally existing triplet oxygen (radical ground state) by increased reactivity. However exist also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

Furthermore, UV radiation counts as ionizing radiation. So there is a risk that also arise ionic species on UV exposure, which in turn oxidative in to be able to intervene in the biochemical processes.

The pigmentation of human skin is essentially due to the presence caused by melanin. Melanin and its degradation products (melanoids), carotene, by degree of bleeding as well as the nature and thickness of the stratum corneum and others Skin layers leave skin tones of virtually white (with reduced filling or in the absence of blood vessels) or yellowish over light brown-reddish, bluish to brown ver different nuances and finally almost black. The individual skin  regions show different depths due to differences in melanin levels Tint.

The natural melanin protects the skin from penetrating UV radiation. The number The melanin granules produced in the melanocytes are decided by Hell od. Dun kelhäutigkeit. For strong pigmentation (eg in colored people, but also in fair-skinned people after some UV irradiation) melanin is also present in the stratum spinosum and even in the Determine stratum corneum. It weakens the UV radiation by up to approx. 90%, before she reaches the corium.

Depending on photosensitivity, the following skin types are usually distinguished:
Skin type I never tans, always gets a sunburn.
Skin type II hardly tans, easily gets sunburned.
Skin type III tans well on average.
Skin type IV tans easily and persistently, almost never gets sunburned.
Skin type V Dark, often almost black, skin never gets sunburned.

The natural shielding of harmful UV radiation is a tangible advantage of natural skin tanning. For some decades now, a "healthy" Skin color as a sign of particular sporting activity and is therefore of a broad consumer stratum is considered desirable. Representatives of skin types I and II, who want to enjoy such a skin tone, therefore, are on anyway anyway instructed to tanning preparations. But also representatives of skin type III who are not too exposed to the risks of the sunbath and still look browned are grateful target groups for self-tanning preparations.

Artificial skin tanning can be effected cosmetically or medically, with essentially the following approaches playing a role:
Carotene is stored in the subcutaneous adipose tissue by regular intake of carotene preparations, the skin gradually turns orange to yellow-brown.

With the help of washable make-up preparations, a slight skin tone can be achieved (eg extracts from fresh green walnut shells, henna).

The staining can also be by way of chemical alteration of the horn layer of the skin with so-called self-tanning preparations. important The active ingredient is dihydroxyacetone (DHA). The skin brew achieved in this way It is not washable and will not be removed until the normal scaling of the skin (after about 10-15 days) away.

Dihydroxyacetone (1,3-dihydroxypropan-2-one) provides a colorless solid with cha odor. In freshly prepared aqueous solutions it is as a dimer which decomposes into the monomers by heating. It can be called ketotriose and reacts as reducing sugar with the amino acids of the Skin or the free amino and imino groups of keratin via a series of Intermediates in the sense of a Maillard reaction to brown-colored substances, soge called melanoids, which are sometimes called melanoidins.

A disadvantage of tanning with dihydroxyacetone is that the tanned with it Skin in contrast to "tanned" skin only slightly against sunburn is protected.

Another disadvantage of dihydroxyacetone is that it, in particular under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, albeit in mostly small amounts Formalde hyd splits off. There was therefore an urgent need to show ways in which Decomposition of dihydroxyacetone can be effectively counteracted.

The use of phospholipids in cosmetic or dermatological preparations tions is known per se. Phospholipids are generally of the highest biological Interest, since they are the basic substance of the cell membranes of all living cells or de represent cell organelles.

Well over a thousand cell membrane lipids have been isolated and identified. By far the largest share of the phospholipids take about 40 to more than 90% of Total lipid content of the cell. There are five types of phospholipids dominie  phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine, cardiolipin (Di phosphatidylglycerol) and sphingomyelin. Glycolipids are important components of Plasma membrane, myelin, endoplasmic reticulum and certain or ganelle, for example the chloroplast photosynthesizing organisms.

Of the most important among the phosphatidylcholines, for example, are the lecithins, which are distinguished by the general structure

characterized in that R ₁ and R _{2 are} typically unbranched aliphatic radicals having 15 or 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds. Not only are lecithins important in the living cell, they are also preferred as the basic ingredient for the outer layer of the most common commercial liposomes.

The basic structure of sphingolipids is sphingosine or phytosphine gosin, which are characterized by the following structural formulas:

Modifications of sphingolipids, for example, are characterized by the general my basic structure

in which R ₁ and R _{3 are} independently saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radicals of 1 to 28 carbon atoms, R _{2 is} selected from the group: hydrogen, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkyl radicals of 1 to 28 carbon atoms, sugar residues , esterified or unesterified phosphate groups with organic radicals, esterified or unesterified sulfate groups with organic radicals, and Y is either a hydrogen atom, a hydroxy group or another hetero-functional radical.

The most common sphingolipids include the naturally occurring ceramides, Ce rebroside, gangliosides, sphingophospholipids, of these in particular the sphingo myeline, sphingosulphatides and glycosphingosides as well as by chemical synthesis Suitable analogues, examples of which are listed below:

Ceramide

R ₁ and R ₃ represent alkyl radicals, R ₂ = H.

Preferably, R ₁ = methyl, R ₃ is preferably selected from the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl.

sphingophospholipids

R ₁ and R ₃ represent alkyl radicals, R ₄ represents an organyl radical.

Sphingomyelin are organylphosphorylated sphingolipids of the type

If R ₂ in the structural formula of the ceramides selected from the group of sugar residues, it is usually distinguished whether monoglycosylceramides or di-, tri- or general my oligoglycosylceramides present.

Monoglycosylceramides are usually called cerebrosides: in these compounds R ₁ is preferably methyl, R ₃ is preferably selected from the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl.

Oligoglycosylceramides are most commonly called gangliosides.

Frequent sphingolipids are ceramide I, II, III and IV, glucosylceramide, lacto sylceramide and the gangliosides GM 1, 2 and 3.

To remedy the disadvantages of the prior art, so was the task of the present the invention.

It was, however, surprising and not foreseeable for the skilled person that the Ver Use of phospholipids for the production of cosmetic or dermatological Preparation for strengthening the natural skin tanning or for stimulating the Melanogenesis of human skin remedies the disadvantages of the prior art.

Preferably contain cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the Er 0.001-10% by weight of phospholipids, based on the total composition tion of the preparations.  

Very particular preference is given to cosmetic or dermatological preparations gene according to the invention 0.01-1 wt .-% of phospholipids, based on the Ge velvet composition of the preparations.

Ceramides are particularly preferably used according to the invention.

According to the invention, the cosmetic and / or dermatological sunscreen be formulated as usual and the cosmetic and / or the Photological light protection, furthermore for the treatment, care and cleaning of the Skin and / or hair and serve as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations are invented According to the skin and / or hair in the manner customary for cosmetics applied sufficient amount.

Particularly preferred are such cosmetic and dermatological preparations, which are in the form of a sunscreen. Advantageously, these additional at least one further UVA filter and / or at least one further UVB filter. Filter and / or at least one inorganic pigment, preferably an inorganic Micropigment, included.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention kos contain metic auxiliaries, as they are commonly used in such preparations be, z. As preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for Verhin foaming, dyes, pigments which have a coloring effect, Ver thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, Waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological Formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, or ganic solvents or silicone derivatives.

An additional content of antioxidants is generally preferred. Fiction According to cheap antioxidants all for cosmetic and / or dermatolo  gische applications suitable or conventional antioxidants used who the.

It is also advantageous to add antioxidants to the preparations according to the invention. Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg, glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg, urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D- Carnosine, L-car nosin and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof ( eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and also Sulfoximine compounds (eg, buthionine sulfoximine, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioni sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated dosages (eg. Pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (for example α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid , Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and De derivatives (eg, ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg, vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof , α-glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylideneglucitol, camosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), Selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the invention appro Neten derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these drugs.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of Zube reitung.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s) advantageous, their respective concentrations in the range of 0.001-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives, the or which are antioxidants is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the Range of 0.001-10% by weight based on the total weight of the formulation choose.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following substance group:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes;
• - Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic, but preferably Ri zinusöl;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably example, esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, z. With isopropanol, Propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids low C number or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoate;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions For the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched Alkancar bonsäuren a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unge saturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated th and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a ketone length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then be chosen advantageously who  from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, iso nonyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-Oc tyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetis cal, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkoxy as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a Chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides For example, they can be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. As olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in Use of the present invention. It may also benefit if necessary be liable, waxes, such as cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

Advantageously, the oil phase is selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate and 2-Ethylhexylisostea rat, mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl _benzoate and Isotridecylisononanoat and mixtures of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat and Isotridecylisononanoat.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are beneficial in the sin ne of the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further contain cyclic or linear silicone have oils or consist entirely of such oils, although preferred  is added, besides the silicone oil or the silicone oils, an additional content of others To use oil phase components.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is used as the invention used silicone silicone oil. But other silicone oils are beneficial in Sin ne of the present invention, for example Hexamethylcyclotrisilo xan, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Also particularly advantageous are mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecylisono nanoate, from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention may contain some geous

• - Alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, and their ethers, preferably Ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol mo noethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogues Products, also low C-number alcohols, e.g. For example, ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-Pro pandiol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents, wel Ches or which can be selected advantageously from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, for. Hyaluronic acid acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageous the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of Carbopols, for example Carbopols of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each alone or in combination.

Advantageously, preparations according to the invention may also contain substances absorb the UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of the filterub punching z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, to provide cosmetic preparations which are the hair or the skin protect against the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. You can also as Sunscreen for hair serve.  

Preparations according to the invention which are present as emulsions contain one or more emulsifiers. For example, O / W emulsifiers can be advantageously selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, eg. B .:

• The fatty alcohol ethoxylates,
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• the fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• the etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• - the esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• The polyethylene glycol glycerin fatty acid ester,
• The ethoxylated sorbitan ester,
• - the cholesterol ethoxylates,
• - ethoxylated triglycerides,
• the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30,
• The polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• the alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H,
• the fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• The propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• - the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• - the esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• the fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• The polypropyleneglycolglycerol fatty acid ester,
• The propoxylated sorbitan ester,  
• - cholesterol propoxylates,
• The propoxylated triglycerides,
• the alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH,
• the alkyl ether sulfates or the acids based on these sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H,
• the fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -H,
• the polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• the etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO- _Xn- Y _m -R ',
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H.

According to the invention, the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers ge selects from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, especially advantageous with HLB values of 14.5-15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers are saturated Radicals R and R 'have. Do the O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated radicals R? and / or R ', or isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value such emulsifiers are also lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated Stearylal alcohols, cetyl alcohols, Cetylstearylalkohole (Cetearylalkohole). Particularly preferred are:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (Ste areth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether (steareth-17), polyethylene glycol col (18) stearyl ether (steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (steareth-19), poly ethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20) )
Polyethylene glycol (13) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-13), Polyethylene glycol (14) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-14), Polyethylene glycol (15) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-15), Polyethylene glycol (16) Cetyl ether (Ceteth-16), Polyethylene glycol (17) Cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (Ce teth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (Ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (Ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether ( Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (Oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (Oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (Oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (Oleth-15),
Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (iso laureth-12),
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), poly ethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-20).

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethyleneglycol (17) isostearate, polylenglycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) iso stearate, Polyethylene glycol (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, poly ethylene glycol (18) oleate, polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) oleate.

The ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt may advantageously be sodium lime Reth-11-carboxylate can be used.

As the alkyl ether sulfate, sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate can be advantageously used.

As the ethoxylated cholesterol derivative, polyethylene glycol (30) may advantageously be cholesteryl ether can be used. Also, polyethylene glycol (25) soybean oil has proven itself

As ethoxylated triglycerides, the polyethylene glycol (60) Evening Prim rose glycerides are used (Evening Primrose = evening primrose).

Furthermore, it is advantageous, the Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester from the group Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol col (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyce rylcaprate / caprinate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl iso stearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoate.

It is also convenient to use the sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbi tanmonolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sor  bitane monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, polyethylene glycol (20) to choose sorbitan monooleate.

As advantageous W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 Carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, diglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, ver branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular re 12-18 C-atoms, diglycerol ethers saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms, propylene glycol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms and sorbitan esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, ver branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl mono isostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan mo nolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaur rat, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. According to the invention advantageous oil-soluble UVB filters are z. B .:

• 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3 benzylidenecamphor;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2- ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;  
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-Me thoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, homomenthyl salicylate,
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzo phenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid (2 ethylhexyl) ester,
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are z. B .:

• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid as its sodium, potassium or her Triethanolammonium salt, as well as the sulfonic acid itself;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their salts and the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and the salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, for example the ent sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also known as benzene 1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid.

The list of said UVB filters used in combination with the invention Drug combinations can be used, of course, not limitie be his.

It may also be advantageous to use UVA filters that are commonly used in cosmeti preparations are contained. These substances are preferred to derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular to 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3- dion. The amounts used for the UVB combination can be used.

The total amount of dibenzoylmethanes, especially 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydi benzoylmethane in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations  is advantageously from the range of 0.1-10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-6.0 wt .-% chosen, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The total amount of camphor derivatives, especially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor and / or benzylidene camphor, in the finished cosmetic or dermatological Preparations are advantageously from the range of 0.1-10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-6.0 wt .-% chosen, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The total amount of triazine derivatives, especially 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltri imino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexylester), in the finished cosmetic or the It is advantageous for matological preparations to be in the range of 0.1-10.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation gene.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain, although not necessarily, inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other sparingly soluble or insoluble metal compounds, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg ., Fe ₂ O _3), zirconium (ZrO _2), silicon (SiO _2), manganese (eg. as MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O _3), cerium (eg., Ce ₂ O _3), Mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of sol chen oxides. Particular preference is given to pigments based on TiO ₂ .

The inorganic pigments are according to the invention in hydrophobic form, d. H., that they are superficially treated water-repellent. This surface treatment may consist in that the pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic layer can be provided.

One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic Oberflä chenschicht after a reaction according to

n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '→ n TiO ₂ (surface)

is produced. n and m are random stoichiometric parameters meter, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 represented hydrophobized pigments are advantageous.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names T 805 from Degussa.

The total amount of inorganic pigments, especially hydrophobic anorga nical micropigments in the finished cosmetic or dermatological acce preparations is advantageously from the range of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 0.1-10.0, in particular 0.5-6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Zube TION.

Furthermore, according to the invention, it may be advantageous to provide the preparations with further UVA and / or UVB filters, for example certain salicylic acid derivatives such as

The total amount of one or more salicylic acid derivatives in the finished kos metic or dermatological preparations is advantageously from the field of  0.1-15.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-8.0% by weight, based on the total amount weight of the preparations. When ethylhexyl salicylate is chosen, it is advantageous to use the total amount from the range of 0.1-5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-2.5 wt .-% to choose. When homomenthylsalicylate is chosen, it is advantageous to have its Ge total amount from the range of 0.1-10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-5.0 wt .-% to choose.

Yet another inventively advantageous to use additional light protective filter substance is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate (Octocrylen), wel ches of BASF under the name UVINUL® N 539 is available and is characterized by the following structure:

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without it limit. All quantities, percentages and percentages are, if not otherwise indicated, on the weight and the total amount or on the total amount weight of the preparations.  

example 1 Skin cream of W / O type

Wt .-% Vaseline DAB 9 13,00 Glycerine DAB 9 6.30 paraffin oil 40,80 Cetylstearyl alcohol / PEG-40 castor oil / sodium cetylstearylsulfate (Eutanol® G, Henkel KGaA) 2.50 Ceramide II 3.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes q. s. water ad 100.00

Example 2 Skin cream of the O / W type

Wt .-% octyldodecanol 9.30 (Emulgade® F, Henkel KGaA) Cetearyl alcohol / PEG-40 paraffin oil 7.80 Castor oil / sodium cetearyl sulfate (Eutanol® G, Henkel KGaA) 3.70 Ceramide II 1.00 Glycerine DAB 9 4.50 Perfume, preservatives, dyes q. s. Water VES ad 100.00

Example 3 O / W Lotion

Wt .-% Steareth-2 3.00 Steareth-21 2.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol / TEG-40 castor oil / sodium cetylstearylsulfate (Eutanol® G, Henkel KGaA) 2.50 paraffin oil 15.00 propylene glycol 1.00 glycerin 3.00 Ceramide II 1.20 Perfume, preservatives, dyes q. s. Water VES ad 100.00

Example 4 O / W Lotion

Wt .-% Octyldodecanol (Emulgade F, Henkel KGaA) 5.60 Cetylstearyl alcohol / TEG-40 castor oil / sodium cetylstearylsulfate (Eutanol® G, Henkel KGaA) 8.90 Cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® 5N, Henkel KGaA) 7.50 paraffin oil 10.50 Ceramide II 5.00 Glycerine DAB 9 4.70 Perfume, preservatives, dyes q. s. Water VES ad 100.00

Example 5 skin oil

Wt .-% Glyceryl tricaprylate (Miglyol® 812, Dynamit Nobel) 21,00 Hexyl laurate (Cetiol® A, Henkel KGaA) 20.00 Octyl stearate (Cetiol® 886, Henkel KGaA) 20.00 paraffin oil 36,00 Ceramide II 3.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes q. s. Water VES ad 100.00

Example 6 Skin cream of W / O type

Wt .-% Vaseline DAB 9 13,00 Glycerine DAB 9 6.30 paraffin oil 40,80 Cetylstearyl alcohol / PEG-40 castor oil / sodium cetylstearylsulfate (Eutanol® G, Henkel KGaA) 2.50 Ceramide III 3.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes q. s. water ad 100.00

Example 7 Skin cream of the O / W type

Wt .-% Octyldodecanol (Emulgade® F, Henkel KGaA) 9.30 Cetearyl / PEG-40 paraffin oil 7.80 Castor oil / sodium cetearyl sulfate (Eutanol® G, Henkel KGaA) 3.70 Ceramide III 1.00 Glycerine DAB 9 4.50 Perfume, preservatives, dyes q. s. Water VES ad 100.00

Example 8 O / W Lotion

Wt .-% Steareth-2 3.00 Steareth-21 2.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol / TEG-40 castor oil / sodium cetylstearylsulfate (Eutanol® G, Henkel KGaA) 2.50 paraffin oil 15.00 propylene glycol 1.00 glycerin 3.00 Ceramide III 1.20 Perfume, preservatives, dyes q.s. Water VES ad 100.00

Example 9 O / W Lotion

Wt .-% Octyldodecanol (Emulgade F, Henkel KGaA) 5.60 Cetylstearyl alcohol / TEG-40 castor oil / sodium cetylstearylsulfate (Eutanol® G, Henkel KGaA) 8.90 Cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® 5N, Henkel KGaA) 7.50 paraffin oil 10.50 Ceramide III 5.00 Glycerine DAB 9 4.70 Perfume, preservatives, dyes q. s. Water VES ad 100.00

Example 10 skin oil

Wt .-% Glyceryl tricaprylate (Miglyol® 812, Dynamit Nobel) 21,00 Hexyl laurate (Cetiol® A, Henkel KGaA) 20.00 Octyl stearate (Cetiol® 886, Henkel KGaA) 20.00 paraffin oil 36,00 Ceramide III 3.00 Perfume, preservatives, dyes q. s. Water VES ad 100.00

Claims (4)

1. Use of phospholipids for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatolo gical preparations to enhance the natural tanning or stimulant tion of melanogenesis of human skin. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the or the phospho lipids are chosen or are from the group of ceramides. 3. Use according to claim 3, characterized in that the or the ceramides is selected from the group of ceramides I, II, III, IV and the group of ceramides of the structure
wherein R ₁ = methyl, R ₂ = H and R _{3 is} selected from the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl. 4. Use according to claim 1, in cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing 0.001-10 wt .-% of one or more phospholipids, based on the total composition of the preparations.