DE10229995A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing alpha-lipoic acid are stabilized against breakdown by adjusting the pH to 7.1-8.5 - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing 0.001-5 wt.% alpha -lipoic acid have a pH of 7.1-8.5.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing α-lipoic acid and a pH of 7.1 to 8.5, their manufacture and use in cosmetics and dermatology, especially for effective protection from harmful Oxidation processes in the skin, as well as a method for stabilization of α-lipoic acid in the preparations mentioned.

As the largest human organ, the human skin performs numerous vital functions. With an average surface area of around 2 m ² in adults, it has an outstanding role as a protective and sensory organ. The task of this organ is to convey and ward off mechanical, thermal, actinic, chemical and biological stimuli. It also has an important role as a regulatory and target organ in human metabolism.

Taking cosmetic skin care is primarily to understand the natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against the loss of the body's own Substances (e.g. water, natural fats, To strengthen electrolyte) or restore as well as their horny layer when occurred damage in their natural regenerative capacity to support.

Become the barrier properties the skin disturbed it can be too amplified Absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or for infestation by Microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions come.

The aim of skin care is also to that by daily Washing to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is not sufficient. Moreover skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, protect and delay skin aging.

• a) Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von Trockenheitsfältchen,
• b) Juckreiz und
• c) verminderte Rückfettung durch Talgdrüsen (z. B. nach Waschen).

The chronological skin aging is e.g. B. caused by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis it occurs due to aging e.g. B. the following structural damage and malfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

• a) dryness, roughness and formation of dry wrinkles,
• b) itching and
• c) Reduced regreasing by sebum glands (e.g. after washing).

• d) Sichtbare Gefäßerweiterungen (Teleangiektasien, Cuperosis);
• e) Schlaffheit und Ausbildung von Falten;
• f) lokale Hyper-, Hypo- und Fehlpigmentierungen (z. B. Altersflecken) und
• g) vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress (z. B. Rissigkeit).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical pollutants, can be cumulatively effective and e.g. B. accelerate or complement the endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, it occurs in particular due to exogenous factors such. B. the following structural damage and functional disorders in the skin, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage with chronological aging:

• d) visible vasodilation (telangiectasia, cuperosis);
• e) flaccidity and wrinkling;
• f) local hyper, hypo and incorrect pigmentations (e.g. age spots) and
• g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (e.g. cracking).

It is a variety of products known for the care of aged skin. These contain e.g. B. Retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or their derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. Your effect on structural damage is limited, however. About that there are also significant difficulties in product development, the active substances sufficiently against oxidative decay to stabilize. The use of products containing vitamin A acid is conditional about that in addition, often strong erythematous Skin irritation. Retinoids are therefore only in low concentrations used.

The harmful effects of the ultraviolet Part of solar radiation as one of the exogenous factors mentioned above on the skin is well known. While rays with a wavelength that is smaller than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range), absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere cause radiation in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, an erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns, taking as a maximum of erythema effectiveness sunlight the narrower range around 308 nm is specified.

To protect against UVB radiation numerous connections are known, for example derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, the cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

Also for the area between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, it is important to have filter substances available as this radiation can cause adverse reactions in light-sensitive skin. It is proven to be UVA radiation to injury of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue leads to what the skin ages prematurely, and that she as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions you can see. The harmful one Influence of UVB radiation can be caused by UVA radiation intensified become.

The UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, in which case the photochemi intervention products in skin metabolism.

Mostly these are photochemical reaction products around radical compounds, for example hydroxy radicals. Also undefined radical photo products, which arise in the skin itself can be uncontrolled due to their high reactivity Cause subsequent reactions. But also singlet oxygen, a non-dical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur with UV radiation, as well as short-lived epoxies and many others similar reactive substances. Singlet oxygen, for example, stands out across from the normally present triplet oxygen (radical ground state) through increased reactivity out. However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the Oxygen molecule.

UV radiation is also ionizing Radiation. So there is a risk that ionic species also UV exposure arises, which in turn then oxidizes into the able to intervene in biochemical processes.

Special versions of those described above Processes can especially polymorphic light dermatoses (PLD), which are also known as Mallorca acne are known and for which there are a variety of other names in the literature (e.g. A. Voelckel et al, Zentralblatt Skin and STDs (1989), 156, p. 2).

In order to prevent these consequences, additional antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers were often incorporated into the cosmetic or dermatological formulations of the prior art. So is already in the US-A-4,144,325 and 4,248,861 as well as in numerous other documents have been proposed to use vitamin E, a substance with a known antioxidant effect, in light protection formulations. Nevertheless, the effect achieved here still falls far short of the hoped-for effect.

Erythematous skin symptoms occur also as side effects with certain skin diseases or -irregularities on. For example, the typical skin rash is in appearance the acne regularly more or less red.

In the article "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury "in" Oxidative Stress in dermatology ", P. 323 ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, 1993, Editor: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley / California) oxidative damage the skin and its nearer Causes listed. unwanted Oxidation processes in human and animal skin may occur, play an essential role in skin aging.

Also for the reason, such reactions can prevent cosmetic or dermatological formulations additionally antioxidants and / or radical scavengers be incorporated. However, the effect achieved remains here far below expectations.

α-Lipoic acid 1952 isolated from liver tissue and its structure as sulphurous Fatty acid cleared up. Bacteria, Plants and higher Organisms can contain α-lipoic acid in their Producing metabolism yourself is the question for humans own biosynthesis still open.

α-Lipoic acid for the therapy of polyneuropathy, a sensitivity disorder hands and feet as late effect of diabetes. 200 to 600 milligrams of α-lipoic acid a day lead to a significant reduction in pain intensity. The energy metabolism of the hand and foot nerves is activated by α-lipoic acid, this leads to better nerve conductivity and therefore less numbness and reflex failures.

α-lipoic acid lowers pathologically increased Liver values and promotes the cure of hepatitis. is α-lipoic acid Contained in small amounts in most foods, only Relatively high values can be found in the meat. It is recognized that α-lipoic acid strong has antioxidant properties.

In the WO 97/10808 and US-A-5,472,698 describes the cosmetic use of α-lipoic acid against symptoms of skin aging. The DE-A-42 42 876 describes active ingredient combinations of biotin and antioxidants, including α-lipoic acid, for the cosmetic and / or dermatological care of the skin and / or the appendages of the skin as well as cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations containing such active ingredient combinations. The WO 95/34280 describes the use of formulations containing sulfhydryl compounds, u. a. α-lipoic acid, for lightening the skin.

The object of the invention is cosmetic and to create dermatological preparations containing α-lipoic acid and opposite chemical degradation reactions, in particular photochemical degradation reactions and / or oxidation-related degradation reactions have improved stability and at the same time have excellent skin care properties. The preparations according to the invention should also be suitable as light protection formulations and thus for the prophylaxis and treatment of light-sensitive skin, in particular of photodermatoses, preferably PLD.

These tasks are carried out by a cosmetic or dermatological preparation with a total weight content of the preparation of α-lipoic acid of 0.001-5% by weight solved, which is characterized in that it has a pH of 7.1 to 8.5.

Furthermore, the subject of the present Invention the use of a preparation as defined above for cosmetic or dermatological treatment of skin and hair.

Finally, the subject of the present Invention a method for stabilizing α-lipoic acid in cosmetic and dermatological Preparations, which is characterized in that the preparations can be adjusted to a pH of 7.1 to 8.5.

Preferred embodiments of the extension result itself from the following description and the dependent claims.

The cosmetic and dermatological invention Preparations are also referred to below as "preparations according to the invention" or simply as Preparations ".

Within the scope of the invention, the Term "α-lipoic acid" both the individual Enantiomers as well as their mixtures, e.g. B. the (RS) shape.

The preparations and methods according to the invention to lead to improved stability versus chemical Degradation reactions, in particular photochemical degradation reactions and / or degradation reactions due to oxidation. In the preparations according to the invention is bioavailability the α-lipoic acid increased and their effectiveness unexpectedly increased significantly.

• – besser als Antioxidans wirken
• – besser als Radikalfänger wirken
• – besser die Bindung von schädlichen Photoprodukten an Lipide, DNS und Proteine verhindern
• – besser gegen Pigmentstörungen wirken
• – besser der Hautaufhellung dienen
• – besser gegen die Hautalterung wirken
• – besser die Haut gegen Photoreaktionen schützen
• – besser entzündlichen Reaktionen vorbeugen würde

als die Wirkstoffe, Wirkstoffkombinationen und Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik.In particular, it was not foreseeable for the skilled worker that the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention

• - work better as an antioxidant
• - work better than radical scavengers
• - better prevent the binding of harmful photo products to lipids, DNA and proteins
• - work better against pigment disorders
• - better serve to lighten the skin
• - work better against skin aging
• - better protect the skin against photoreactions
• - better prevent inflammatory reactions

as the active substances, combinations of active substances and preparations of the prior art.

The total amount of α-lipoic acid is advantageous 0.001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005-2.0% by weight and in particular 0.05-1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The cosmetic or dermatological invention Preparations can in relation to the other components of such preparations as usual be composed and for treatment, care and cleaning the skin and / or the hair and as a make-up product in the decorative Serve cosmetics.

According to the cosmetic and dermatological Preparations contain a suitable excipient carrier, like they usually do used in such preparations, e.g. B. preservatives, Bactericides, perfumes, Anti-foaming agents, dyes, pigments, the one coloring Have an effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, complexing agents, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, Fats, oils, Waxes or other usual Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

It is preferred according to the invention the cosmetic or dermatological preparations complexing agents inflict.

Complexing agents are known per se Auxiliaries in cosmetology and medical galenics. By the complexation of disruptive Metals such as Mn, Fe, Cu and others can be undesirable chemical, for example Reactions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations prevented become.

Complexing agents, especially chelators, form complexes with metal atoms, which if one or several polybasic complexing agents, i.e. chelators, metallacycles represent. Chelates are compounds in which a single Ligand occupies more than one coordination site on a central atom. In this case, connections are usually elongated through complex formation over a metal atom or ion closed to rings. The number of bound Ligand hangs on the coordination number of the central metal. requirement for the Chelation is that compound reacting with the metal two or more atomic groups contains that act as electron donors.

The complexing agent or complexing agents can be advantageous from the group of the usual Connections are selected, preferably at least one substance from the group from tartaric acid and their anions, citric acid and their anions, aminopolycarboxylic acids and their anions (such as for example ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its anions, Tetrasodium iminodisuccinate (IDS), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their anions, Hydroxyethylenediaminotriessigsäure (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethylene aminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1,2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and its anions selected becomes.

The complexing agent (s) are from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

In particular, the preparations according to the invention also contain other antioxidants and / or free radical scavengers.

Such antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan, cysteine) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and others Thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ -Linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximine, homocysteine sulfone, homocysteine sulfone -, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. B. pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, pyridoxine and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glucosylrutin, ascorbic acid and their derivatives, in particular ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl phosphate and related Compounds, Butylhydroxytoluene, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, sesamol, sesamolin, zinc and its De derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferred 0.025-5 wt .-%, in particular 0.05-3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If ascorbic acid and / or its derivatives that or the additional ones Antioxidants are beneficial, their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its Derivatives the one or more Antioxidants are beneficial, their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001 - 10 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

According to the invention, cosmetic and dermatological Preparations in various forms, e.g. B. as a lotion. Examples of suitable formulations are emulsions like oil-in-water (O / W), Water-in-oil (W / O) or water-in silicone (W / S) emulsions, multiple emulsions such as W / O / W and O / W / O emulsions, also as hydrodispersions or lipodispersions referred to, gels, e.g. B. oleogels hydrogels, expandable Emulsions or sticks, e.g. B. fat pens or hydrated pens.

It is particularly advantageous if the preparations are an oil-in-water emulsion or microemulsion Represent (O / W).

Emulsions contain e.g. B. the fats, oils, waxes and other fat bodies mentioned below as well Water and an emulsifier, as is usually the case for one such type of formulation is used.

• - Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• - Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z. B. Rizinusöl;
• - Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedrger C-Zahl, z. B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• - Alkylbenzoate;
• - Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The oil phase, also called lipid phase, can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - Oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, as well as natural oils such. B. castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, e.g. B. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the sense of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms , Such Esteröle can then advantageously be selected from the group consisting of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononylstearat, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl , Oleyl oleate, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for. B. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ether, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example, advantageously chosen are from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. B. Olive oil, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mix of such oil and wax components are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example Cetyl palmitate, to be used as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures are particularly advantageous from C_12-15alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C_12-15alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C₁₂_₁₅- Alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and Isotridecyl.

Of the hydrocarbons are Paraffin oil, Squalane and squalene advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use.

The oil phase can also be advantageous have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or completely such oils exist, although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or silicone oils one additional Content of other oil phase components to use.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageous used as silicone oil to be used according to the invention. But also other silicone oils are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Are also particularly advantageous Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention contains optionally advantageous alcohols, diols or polyols lower Carbon number and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, Glycerin, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, Propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog products, further lower alcohols C number, e.g. B. ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or which can advantageously be chosen from from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageous from the group the polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of the so-called Carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, or from the group of the so-called Pemulenes, for example Pemulenes of types TR-1, TR-2, each individually or in combination.

In particular, mixtures of solvents mentioned above used. With alcoholic solvents water can be another ingredient.

• – der Fettalkoholethoxylate
• – der ethoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• – der Polyethylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• – der Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-H,
• – der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• – der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• - der Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• – der ethoxylierten Sorbitanester
• – der Cholesterinethoxylate
• – der ethoxylierten Triglyceride
• – der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-CH₂-COOH und n eine Zahl von 5 bis 30 darstellen,
• – der Polyoxyethylensorbitolfettsäureester,
• – der Alkylethersulfate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• – der Fettalkoholpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_nR',
• – der propoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole, – der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• – der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• – der Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• – der propoxylierten Sorbitanester
• – der Cholesterinpropoxylate
• – der propoxylierten Triglyceride
• – der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)O-)_n-CH₂-COOH
• – der Alkylethersulfate bzw. die diesen Sulfaten zugrundeliegenden Säuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n- SO₃-H
• – der Fettalkoholethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-R',
• – der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-R',
• – der Fettsäureethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-H.

Preparations according to the invention present as emulsions optionally advantageously contain one or more O / W emulsifiers. Such O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, e.g. B .:

• - The fatty alcohol ethoxylates
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• The polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• The fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -H,
• The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• The esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• - The polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• - The ethoxylated sorbitan esters
• - the cholesterol ethoxylates
• - The ethoxylated triglycerides
• - The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n is a number of 5 to 30,
• - the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• - The alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• The fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n R ',
• - the propoxylated wool wax alcohols, - the etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• The esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• The fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• - the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• - The propoxylated sorbitan esters
• - the cholesterol propoxylates
• - the propoxylated triglycerides
• - The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH
• - The alkyl ether sulfates or the acids of these sulfates on the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n - SO ₃ -H
• The fatty alcohol ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -H,
• The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• The etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ',
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H.

Be particularly advantageous according to the invention the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageous with with HLB values from 14.5 - 15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers are saturated Have radicals R and R '. Assign the O / W emulsifiers unsaturated Residues R and / or R ', or if there are isoalkyl derivatives, the preferred HLB value can be such emulsifiers are also lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) steanl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether ( Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether ( Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15), polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether ( Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetylsteanlether (Ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-14), Polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl steanl ether (Ceteareth-17), Polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-20).

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate, polyethylene (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) iso stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, Polyethylene glycol ( 20) oleate.

As ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or the salt of which can advantageously be used the sodium laureth-11 carboxylate.

Sodium can be used as the alkyl ether sulfate Laureth 1-4 sulfate can be used advantageously.

As an ethoxylated cholesterol derivative Polyethylene glycol (30) cholestene ether can advantageously be used. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

As ethoxylated triglycerides can be advantageous which uses polyethylene glycol (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides (Evening Primrose = evening primrose) Furthermore, it is advantageous the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glycene laurate, Polyethylene glycol (21) glycene laurate, polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol (20) glycene isostearate, Polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also convenient that Sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate to choose.

Preparations available as emulsions optionally advantageously contain one or more W / O emulsifiers. Such advantageous W / O emulsifiers can be used: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, saturated monoglycerol esters and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol esters more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ether more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 Carbon atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms and sorbitan esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C-atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, Glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, Propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, Propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, Sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, Isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) steanl ether (Steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

Gels according to the invention usually contain Low C number alcohols, e.g. B. ethanol, Isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin and water or one above called oil in the presence of a thickener, which is preferred for oily alcoholic gels Silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate, in the case of aqueous alcoholic or alcoholic Gel is preferably a polyacrylate.

Preparations according to the invention can be advantageous Moreover Contain substances that absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances z. B. 0.2% by weight to 20% by weight, is preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight. based on the total weight of the preparations to make cosmetic preparations to disposal to place the hair or skin in front of the entire area protect from ultraviolet radiation. You can also as sunscreen for Serve hair or skin.

• – 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, Salicylsäure(4-isopropylbenzyl)ester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester,
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon;
• - Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester,
• – 2-Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3-diphenylacrylat (Octocrylen^®),
• – 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-trtazin (Octyltriazon).

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Oil-soluble UVB filters advantageous according to the invention are e.g. B .:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester,
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester,
• - 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3-diphenylacrylate (Octocrylen ^® ),
• - 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-trtazine (octyltriazone).

• - Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Trtethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze;
• - Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und ihre Salze sowie das 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol und dessen Salze (die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, beispielsweise das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bomylidenmethyl-10-Sulfonsäure bezeichnet.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are e.g. B .:

• - Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or its trtethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene-methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts and 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo 3-bornylidene methyl) -benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also as benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidene methyl) Designated 10-sulfonic acid.

The list of UVB filters mentioned should go without saying not be limiting.

It can also be advantageous to combine the active ingredient used according to the invention with UVA filters which have hitherto usually been contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- ( 4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Further advantageous UVA filters come from the group of triazines, for. B. 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (trade name Tinosorb ^® S) and the group of triazoles, such as. B. 2,2'-methylene-bis [6-2H-benzotriazole-2-yl] -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) (trade name Tinosorb ^® M). An advantageous water-soluble UVA filter is the 2'-bis (1,4-phenylene) -1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid sodium salt (trade name Neo Heliopan AP ^® ).

These combinations or preparations, which contain these combinations are the subject of the invention. It can the for the quantities named UVB filters are used. By the addition of the above-mentioned UV filter substances is also advantageous stability of α-lipoic acid in the Preparations according to the invention further increased.

The preparations according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments commonly found in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. Acting are oxides of titanium, zinc, zirconium, silicon, manganese, Cers and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred Pigments based on titanium dioxide.

It is particularly beneficial in the sense the present invention, although not mandatory if the inorganic pigments are present in hydrophobic form, i. H., that she superficial are treated to be water-repellent. This surface treatment can consist of that the Pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic Layer.

One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer after a reaction n TiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '→ n TiO ₂ (surface) is produced. n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, according to the in the DE-OS 33 14 742 on page 4 and 5 disclosed methods disclosed hydrophobized pigments advantageous.

Advantageous TiO ₂ pigments are available, for example, under the trade names MT 100 T from TAYCA, M 160 from Kemira and T 805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can, especially if crystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example inorganic Micropigments incorporated into the preparations according to the invention should also be anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric Contain surfactants. Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that contain organic, Dissolve non-polar substances in water can.

The pigments can be used in amounts from 0.01 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, in particular from 0.25 to 5 wt .-%, are used.

In the cosmetic and dermatological invention Preparations used to protect hair from UV rays are, for example, shampooing agents, Preparations when rinsing hair before or after shampooing, before or after permanent wave treatment, before or after coloring or discoloration of hair can be applied to hair drier or preparations Inserting the hair, preparations for dyeing or decoloring to a hairdressing and treatment lotion, a hair lacquer or permanent waving.

The preparations then contain active ingredients and auxiliaries, as are customary for this type of Preparations for hair care and hair treatment can be used. Auxiliaries are preservatives, surface-active substances, substances to prevent foaming, thickeners, emulsifiers, fats, oils, waxes, organic solvents, bactericides, perfumes, dyes or pigments, the task of which is to close the hair or the cosmetic or dermatological preparation itself coloring, electroyte, substances against greasing the hair.

Among electrolytes in the sense of the present Invention are water soluble Alkali, ammonium, alkaline earth (including magnesium) and zinc salts of inorganic anions and any mixtures thereof Understanding salts, being guaranteed have to be, that itself these salts by pharmaceutical or cosmetic harmlessness distinguished.

The anions are according to the invention preferred chosen from the group of chlorides, sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, the Phosphates, hydrogen phosphates and the linear and cyclic oligophosphates as well the carbonates and hydrogen carbonates.

Are the cosmetic or dermatological Preparations in the form of a lotion, which are rinsed and z. B. before or after decolorization, before or after shampooing, between two shampooing steps, is applied before or after the permanent wave treatment it is z. B. to aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic Solutions, the possibly surface-active Contain substances whose concentration is between 0.1 and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.2 and 5% by weight, can lie.

A cosmetic preparation in the form a lotion that doesn't wash out especially a lotion for inlaying the hair, a lotion, the blow dryer of hair is used, a hairdressing and treatment lotion generally an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution represents and contains the lipoic acid in effective concentration at least one cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymer or mixtures thereof. The amount of polymers used is e.g. B. between 0.1 and 10 wt .-%, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight.

According to the invention, cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair are present as gels, in addition to an effective content of active ingredients according to the invention and usually for it solvents used, preferably water, still organic thickeners, e.g. B. Gum arabic, xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably Methyl cellulose, hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose or inorganic Thickeners, e.g. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture of polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate. The thickener is in the gel z. B. in a lot between 0.01 and 10 wt .-%, preferred between 0.1 and 2% by weight.

The amount of active ingredient according to the invention is preferably in one for the hair determined agents 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 2% by weight and in particular 0.05 to 1.0 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the product.

• – herkömmliche Seifen, z. B. Fettsäuresalze des Natriums
• – Alkylsulfate, Alkylethersulfate, Alkan- und Alkylbenzolsulfonate
• – Sulfoacetate
• – Sulfobetaine
• – Sarcosinate
• – Amidosulfobetaine
• – Sulfosuccinate
• – Sulfobernsteinsäurehalbester
• – Alkylethercarboxylate
• – Eiweiß-Fettsäure-Kondensate
• – Alkylbetaine und Amidobetaine
• – Fettsäurealkanolamide
• – Polyglycolether-Derivate

Aqueous cosmetic cleaning agents or water-free or water-free cleaning agent concentrates according to the invention intended for aqueous cleaning can contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, for example

• - conventional soaps, e.g. B. Fatty acid salts of sodium
• - Alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkane and alkyl benzene sulfonates
• - sulfoacetates
• - sulfobetaines
• - Sarcosinate
• - Amidosulfobetaines
• - sulfosuccinates
• - sulfosuccinic acid semiesters
• - alkyl ether carboxylates
• - Protein fatty acid condensates
• - alkyl betaines and amido betaines
• - fatty acid alkanolamides
• - Polyglycol ether derivatives

Cosmetic preparations, the cosmetic Cleaning preparations for can represent the skin in liquid or solid form. Then preferably at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactant or mixtures from it, if desired one or more electrolytes and auxiliaries, as is customary used for that become. The surface active Substance can be in a concentration between 1 and 94 wt .-% are present in the cleaning preparations, preferably 1 and 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Cosmetic preparations which are a shampooing agent then preferably contain at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surface-active substance or mixtures thereof, optionally an electrolyte and auxiliary according to the invention, as are usually used therefor be applied. The surface-active substance can be present in the shampoo in a concentration between 1 and 94% by weight, preferably 1 and 50% by weight.

The preparations according to the invention included except optionally the aforementioned surfactants water and optionally the ones common in cosmetics Additives, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, moisturizing agents, Complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, Plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients and the like.

The use of cyclodextrins for the molecular complexation of α-lipoic acid is also advantageous. Here α-, β-, γ- and also HP-β-cyclodextrin are suitable. Such inclusion compounds of thioctic acid with cyclodextrins and cyclodextrin derivatives have also been described in the DE-A-43 38 508 from Asta Medica AG.

The production of the cosmetic according to the invention and dermatological preparations of the invention are in themselves known manner in that one the desired Ingredients combined with each other, the amount of α-lipoic acid being selected so that in the finished preparation is based on the total weight of the preparation related content of α-lipoic acid from 0.001-5 wt .-% is, and the pH of the cosmetic and dermatological preparations to the range from 7.1 to 8.5, preferably to values between 7.2 and 8.0 and especially in the range 7.2 to 7.8 (e.g. 7.5). This setting is done with the common bases such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, the alkaline salts of citric acid or phosphoric acid or amines such as triethanolamine.

The preparations according to the invention are used in the for Cosmetics usual Sufficiently applied to the skin and / or hair.

The object of the invention is therefore the use of the preparations described above for cosmetic Treatment of skin and hair, especially for stabilization across from chemical degradation reactions, in particular photochemical degradation reactions and / or oxidation-related degradation reactions.

The present invention therefore includes also a cosmetic procedure to protect the skin and hair before oxidative or photooxidative processes, characterized in that is that one the preparation according to the invention apply to skin or hair in sufficient quantities.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention are placed on the market in suitable packaging. As suitable have in particular porcelain jars, plastic tubes, aluminum tubes, Dosing dispenser and pump dispenser with drag piston system and pressure-resistant Exposed aerosol cans.

In particular, the present concerns Invention thus cosmetic preparations with effective protection from harmful Oxidation processes in the skin. But it can also be used for protection cosmetic preparations themselves or to protect the components cosmetic preparations before harmful oxidation processes serve.

The uses mentioned can in particular with such preparations, which in addition to lipoic acid or more of the above UV filter substances, e.g. B. UVA or UVB filters, or a combination thereof, as antioxidants contain.

• – von defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen oder defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Zuständen von Hautanhangsgebilden
• – von Erscheinungen vorzeitiger Alterung der Haut (z. B. Falten, Altersflecken, Teleangiektasien) und/oder der Hautanhangsgebilde,
• – von umweltbedingten (Rauchen, Smog, reaktive Sauerstoffspecies, freie Radikale) und insbesondere lichtbedingten negativen Veränderungen der Haut und der Hautanhangsgebilde
• – von trockener Haut
• – von lichtbedingten Hautschäden
• – von Pigmentierungsstörungen,
• – von Juckreiz,
• – von trockenen Hautzuständen und Hornschichtbarnerestörungen,
• – von Haarausfall und für verbessertes Haarwachstum
• – von entzündlichen Hautzuständen sowie atopischem Ekzem, seborrhoischem Ekzem, polymorpher Lichtdermatose, Psoriasis, Vitiligo

möglich. Ferner führt die Verwendung auch in überraschender Weise

• – zur Beruhigung von empfindlicher oder gereizter Haut
• – zur Stimulation der Kollagen-, Hyaluronsäure-, Elastinsynthese
• – zur Stimulation der intrazellulären DNA-Synthese, insbesondere bei defizitären oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen
• – zur Steigerung der Zelterneuerung und Regeneration der Haut
• – zur Steigerung der hauteigenen Schutz- und Reparaturmechanismen (beispielsweise für dysfunktionelle Enzyme, DNA, Lipide, Proteine) und kann
• – zur Vor- und Nachbehandlung bei topischer Anwendung von Laser- und Abschleifbehandlungen, die z. B. der Reduzierung von Hautfalten und Narben dienen, um den resultierenden Hautreizungen entgegenzuwirken und die Regenerationsprozesse in der verletzten Haut zu fördern.

When using the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations of the present invention, it is surprisingly an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis

• - of deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages
• - signs of premature aging of the skin (e.g. wrinkles, age spots, telangiectasias) and / or the appendages of the skin,
• - Of environmental (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and especially light-related negative changes in the skin and the appendages
• - dry skin
• - from light-related skin damage
• - pigmentation disorders,
• - from itching,
• - from dry skin conditions and horny layer disorders,
• - from hair loss and for improved hair growth
• - of inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo

possible. Furthermore, the use also leads in a surprising manner

• - to soothe sensitive or irritated skin
• - for stimulating collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis
• - to stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions
• - to increase cell renewal and skin regeneration
• - to increase the skin's own protection and repair mechanisms (for example for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins) and can
• - for pre- and post-treatment with topical application of laser and abrasive treatments, e.g. B. serve the reduction of skin folds and scars to counteract the resulting skin irritation and to promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin.

In summary, they serve Preparations according to the invention to care for and protect the skin, especially the sensitive ones Skin as well as especially in the foreground due to the intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors of aged or aging skin. The The present invention thus relates in particular to care products the natural one Wise aged skin as well as products to treat the consequential damage of the Light aging, in particular the phenomena listed at a) to g).

The preparations for cosmetic and dermatological treatment or prophylaxis of erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune reactive symptoms, especially dermatoses, be used.

The present invention relates to also preparations for the prophylaxis and treatment of photosensitive Skin, especially photodermatoses.

Furthermore, the present concerns Invention preparations for the purpose of lightening the skin.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the total weight of the preparations. Examples 1-10 O / W creams

Example 11 W / O cream

Example 12 Hydrodispersion / Gel Cream

Examples 13 to 16 Foundations

The sample formulations above were in conventional Manufactured way. It was found that the setting according to the invention a significant stabilization of the pH was achieved.

Claims (11)

Cosmetic or dermatological preparation with one on the total weight of the preparation related content of α-lipoic acid from 0.001-5 wt .-%, characterized in that the preparation has a pH of 7.1 up to 8.5. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that it has a pH between 7.2 and 7.8. Preparation according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that that they selected excipients from preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, Dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surfactants Substances, emulsifiers, complexing agents, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes, alcohols, polyols, Polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents, Silicone derivatives, active ingredients, vitamins, UV filter substances or Mixtures of the same contains. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized characterized in that it contains further antioxidants and / or radical scavengers. Preparation according to a of the preceding claims, characterized in that the UV filter substances are selected from the group consisting of UV-A and UV-B filter substances, in particular 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,2'-methylene-bis- [6-2H-benzotriazol-2yl] -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol and 2'-bis (1,4-phenylene) -1 H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid sodium salt. Use of a preparation according to one of claims 1 to 5 for the cosmetic treatment of skin and hair. Use of a preparation according to one of claims 1 to 5 to protect against chemical degradation reactions, especially photochemical Degradation reactions and / or oxidation-related degradation reactions. Process for the stabilization of α-lipoic acid in cosmetic and dermatological Preparations, characterized in that the preparations are based on a pH of 7.1 to 8.5 can be set. A method according to claim 9, characterized in that the pH is adjusted to a range between 7.2 and 7.8. A method according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that UV filters be incorporated into the preparations. A method according to claim 11, characterized in that the UV filter substances selected are from the group consisting of UV-A and UV-B filter substances, especially 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,2'-methylene- bis- [6-2H-benzotrtazol-2y1] -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol and 2'-bis- (1,4-phenylene) -1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid sodium salt.