DE19854688A1 - Method and sewing unit for sewing a flap and a bag onto a piece of fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The pocket flap (P) is positioned in a traveling sewed item holder of a sewing unit in the future working position thereof in order to sew pre-sewn pocket flaps (P) on a sewn part (W), whereby the pocket flap partially overlaps a pocket (T) which is to be sewn on the sewed part (W). After the work piece parts (W, P, T) are supplied to the sewing machine, the pocket flap (P) is first connected to the sewed part (W) using a seam (N1). Afterwards, the part of the pocket flap (P) which overlaps the pocket (T) is turned over and the pocket (T) is then connected to the sewed part (W) using a seam (N2).

Description

The invention relates to a method for sewing finished panels and a method for sewing on raw flats each with a pocket a workpiece using a sewing unit with a sewing machine and a guide device having a sewing material holder.

The difference between pre-finished and raw panels is known Lich in that finished panels have a folded end edge, while raw pastes are an unfolded, open and therefore raw, for Fraying end edge included. This difference is due also different sewing methods. So ready-to-use boards are always in an alignment position corresponding to the later position of use on the Sewn-on sewn fabric part, which is a shirt part, a trousers part or a jacket or coat part can act. Be opposed Raw patties first around in a later use position Positioned 180 ° rotated alignment position, then with a near the raw first edge is attached to the sewing part, then folded over this seam in the position of use and finally sewn on the sewing part with a second seam. The procedure for Sewing on raw panels is, for example, from the PFAFF information font "PFAFF Special Service 310-01", print date 3/83, known.

DE 41 24 164 C2 describes a method for sewing a finished product flap and a pocket on a piece of material known, in which the flap is positioned relative to the pocket on the workpiece so that it initially occupies a non-overlapping position. These three works Piece parts are gripped by a material holder and a Platen of the sewing unit pulled towards the sewing machine leads. Then the bag is first placed on the workpiece sews. Then the sewing material part is sewn together with the Bag by means of an additional, stationary, with suction air working holding device held on the platen. In the meantime, the flap is either held by a suction air holding device direction or by means of a mechanical gripping holding device direction held on a flap clamping plate, the whole  Sewing material holder including flap clamping plate and flap holding device lifted from the sewing material part and the bag and then as far horizontally proceed until the flap covers the pocket in the desired manner overlaps. After the work piece holder is back on the work piece and the Bag has been lowered, the flap will then be in its position of use sewn onto the sewing material part.

By the measure, after sewing on the bag, the flap of one To transfer the first to a second layer during this The normal holding function of the material holder, d. H. the clamping function in cooperation with the platen, canceled be. Because the holding function for the relative to each other moving workpiece parts instead of two additional Holding devices must be taken over is the device Comparatively large expenditure for the implementation of this method. There is also a risk that when the holding function changes from the material holder to the two additional holding devices and vice versa, the relative position of the flap to the pocket or the position of the then shifted to the programmed flap seam. Since the Flap seam is only a short distance from the top flap edge, would such a shift or even an angular Twisting leads to an unsightly looking sewing result.

From DE 197 05 314 A1 a method and a sewing unit for sewing on a raw flap are known, in which or in which the flap is placed on a material holder in an orientation rotated by 180 ° with respect to the later use position. The material holder takes over the folded pocket in a known manner and feeds the material part, the pocket and the flap to the sewing machine, where the pocket is first sewn on. Subsequently, the sewing material holder is moved to a stationary holding device ( 98 ) which holds the sewing material part together with the sewn-on pocket and the still loose flap by means of suction air on the support plate. In the meantime, the sewing material holder is raised and moved in the horizontal direction from the pocket sewing position to the flap sewing position. When the material holder is lowered, a holding strip ( 80 ) sits on the edge of the flap near the first seam to be produced and then holds it in place. As soon as the first flap seam has been formed, the flap is folded into its position of use and held in this position by means of a turning strip ( 66 ) around the seam or around the holding strip ( 80 ), whereupon the second flap seam is formed.

Another sewing unit is known from DE 197 15 340 A1, which is used for sewing on raw panels. This sewing unit has a total of three components arranged on a sewing material holder ( 40 ) for the functions of holding and folding the flap, namely a flap clamp ( 53 ), a holding strip ( 77 ) and a spiral strip ( 74 ) referred to as a clamp overhang. The procedure for sewing on the flap is essentially the same as for the sewing unit according to the aforementioned DE 197 05 314 A1, but with the difference that when the flap is folded down into the position of use, it is not about the retaining strip, but as in the manually carried out method according to mentioned PFAFF information sheet is folded over the first flap seam. In this sewing unit, too, the sewing material holder is moved to a stationary holding device ( 93 ) after the pocket is sewn on, which then holds the sewing material part together with the sewn-on pocket by suction air on the support plate of the sewing unit. The material holder is then lifted from the material part and the bag and moved in the horizontal direction by a predetermined distance and then put back on the material part and the bag, whereupon the flap is now in its correct position to the bag.

Thus, the two known sewing units have one Raw paste has an essential feature in common, namely that after Sewing the bag on the normal holding function of the material holder, d. H. the clamping function in cooperation with the platen, canceled is at least opposite the sewing material part and the sewn on To move bag. In this respect, there is also a common sense samkeit with the sewing unit known from DE 41 24 164 C2 Sewing ready-made panels, d. that is, the two sewing units for sewing raw plates have the same basic disadvantages, namely on the one hand the large amount of equipment and on the other hand the  Danger that the relative position of the flap compared to the sewn on Bag can move.

The invention has for its object a method for sewing of finished panels and a method of sewing raw panels onto one Sewing material part and a sewing unit for carrying it out To create procedures in which undesirable relative shifts between flap, bag and sewing material part can be safely avoided. The Task is with regard to the procedures by the in the adjacent ordered claims 1 and 5 specified steps and with regard Lich the corresponding sewing units by the characteristic Features of claims 2, 6 and 7 solved.

By the measure taken in the method according to claim 1, the Ready-made paste in its later position of use relative to the pocket to position, then first sew on the flap and then the remove overlapping part of the flap from the area of the pocket, so that this can also be sewn on, there is the possibility speed that the sewing material holder and the sewing material part placed on it Pocket during all these work steps in a fixed relative position others can hold on. Since after the flap is sewn on, its relative position is fixed to the workpiece, it can therefore be removed when removing the overlapping part no relative displacement with respect to the pocket or give the sewing material part. This ensures that both the flap as well as the bag during the entire process unwanted relative movements with each other or with respect to Are secured.

To carry out the method according to claim 1 is a sewing unit provided with the features of claim 2. Since the sewing unit is not alternating with the material holder effective holding device for the Sewing material part and the bag and also no additional holding device for the flap is the device-related effort for the The procedure is much less than with the sewing unit according to DE 41 24 164 C2.  

Claim 3 is a particularly simple further development of the sewing unit specified. The training specified in claim 4 is concerned an alternative version. This differs from over the former in that the holding plate for the bag is particularly flat and that above the holding plate Carrier plate for the flap pressure plate which can be displaced relative to it and the flap folding element is provided. Due to the smaller thickness conditional on the holding plate, occurs between the edge area to be sewn on the flap and the other part of the Flatten a smaller height difference than with the sewing material holder according to claim 3. The lower height difference has an effect from that the flap in the edge area to be sewn on only slightly is deflected, which is particularly the case with stiffer flap material Advantage is.

By the measure taken in the method according to claim 5, the Holding effect of the workpiece holder with respect to the workpiece and the bag placed during the entire working cycle, d. H. that is, until the second flap seam is formed is to be maintained in the same way as with the procedure according to claim 1 ensures that both the flap and the Bag against unwanted during the entire process Relative movements with each other or with respect to the workpiece are secured.

The same applies to those specified in claims 6 and 7 Sewing units for performing the method according to claim 5. Since they also no stopping device effective in alternation with the material holder direction for the sewing material part and the bag, is the device-related effort for performing the method far less than in the sewing units according to DE 197 05 314 A1 and DE 197 15 340 A1.

In the other subclaims (claims 8 to 10) are advantageous Further developments of the sewing units specified.  

The invention is explained using four exemplary embodiments. It demonstrate:

Fig. 1 is a view of a sewing unit;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the sewing unit;

Figure 3 is a plan view of the fabric holder of the first embodiment example after sewing a finished plate.

Figure 4 is a sectional view of the material holder along line IV-IV in Figure 3 with the pressure plate open for the flap and inserted flap.

Figure 5 is a sectional view corresponding to Figure 4 after the sewing of the flap..;

Fig. 6 is a sectional view corresponding to Figure 4 after sewing on the bag.

Figure 7 is a plan view of the material holder of the second embodiment example after inserting a finished plate with the pressure plate closed for the flap.

Fig. 8 is a sectional view of the material holder along line VIII-VIII in Fig. 7 after inserting a flap with the pressure plate open;

FIG. 9 shows an enlarged detail from FIG. 8;

Fig. 10 is a sectional view corresponding to Fig. 8, showing the situation in which after the flap has been sewn on, the part of the pocket overlapping is partially folded over;

FIG. 11 shows an enlarged detail from FIG. 10;

FIG. 12 shows a sectional view corresponding to FIG. 8 after the pocket has been sewn on;

Fig. 13 is a plan view of the fabric holder of the second embodiment example before sewing on the bag;

Fig. 14 is a plan view of the material holder of the third embodiment example after inserting a raw plate in the clamping position of the pressure bar for the flap;

. FIG. 15 is a sectional view of the fabric holder according to line XV-XV in Fig 14 befindlicher after inserting a flap in the open position when pressure strip;

FIG. 16 is a sectional view corresponding to FIG. 15 after the pocket has been sewn on and after the first flap seam has been formed;

Fig. 17 is a sectional view corresponding to Fig. 15, showing the situation in which the flap is folded into its position of use;

Figure 18 is a plan view of the fabric holder of the third embodiment example after the formation of the second flap seam.

Figure 19 is a sectional view of the fabric holder according to line IXX-IXX in Figure 18 after the formation of the second flap seam..;

FIG. 20 is an enlarged detail of Fig. 19;

Fig. 21 is a plan view of the fabric holder of the fourth embodiment example after inserting a raw plate in the closed position of the pressure bar for the flap;

FIG. 22 is a sectional view of the fabric holder according to line XXII-XXII in Figure 21 by inserting a flap in the open position in-pressing strip.

Figure 23 is a sectional view corresponding to Figure 22 after sewing the bag and after the formation of the first flap seam..;

Fig. 24 is a sectional view corresponding to Fig. 22, showing the situation in which the flap is folded into its position of use.

The sewing unit shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 and used for sewing flaps P and pockets T onto a workpiece W corresponds to the sewing unit described in detail in DE 42 34 968 C1. It therefore also has a workpiece support plate 1 , a sewing machine 2 with a driven needle 3 and an up and down movable holder 4 and a guide device 5 for a workpiece holder 6 , 7 , 70 and 110 respectively. The sewing unit is also one of the prior art, for. B. assigned by DE 41 13 131 C1 known folding device 8 , which serves to fold or fold the edge portions of the pockets T.

The guide device 5 is designed in a known manner so that it can move the workpiece holder 6 or 7 up and down perpendicular to the surface of the support plate 1 . It also serves to move the fabric holder 6 , 7 , 70 and 110 back and forth between the folding device 8 and the sewing machine 2 and the relative movement of the fabric holder 6 , 7 , 70 and 110 required for the manufacture of the flap seams and the pocket seams the sewing machine 2 to perform.

Embodiment 1

In FIGS. 3 through 6 shown fabric holder 6 has a planar holding plate 10 for lying on the support plate 1 and the work piece W placed on it on T pocket. The holding plate 10 can be coupled to the guide device 5 with the aid of a coupling strip 11 .

The holding plate 10 contains a sewing slot 12 for the passage of the needle 3 when producing the substantially U-shaped pocket seam N2. A rectangular recess 13 is formed in the holding plate 10 at a short distance from the sewing slot 12 . A cut-out pressure plate 14 for the flap P is assigned to the recess 13 . The pressure plate 14 is attached to one end of an arcuate leaf spring 15 , the other end of which is attached to the holding plate 10 . The leaf spring 15 serves not only as a carrier for the pressure plate 14 , but also as a joint, so that the pressure plate 14 between a pressure position shown in FIGS. 5 and 6 and an open position shown in FIG. 4 can be pivoted back and forth.

The leaf spring 15 is biased so that it holds the pressure plate 14 in the pressure position. A handle 16 is connected to the leaf spring 15 and enables the operator to pivot the pressure plate 14 into the open position.

The pressure plate 14 contains a wide sewing slot 17 for the formation of a flap seam N1 designed as a double seam. The 18 designated interruption of the sewing slot 12 causes a corresponding seam interruption for the insertion of a pencil.

A flat stop bar 19 is attached to the underside of the holding plate 10 on both sides of the recess 13 . The thickness of the stop bars 19 is shown as large in FIGS. 4 to 6 only for the sake of clarity. In reality, it must be smaller than the thickness of the folded-over edge areas of the pocket T.

A compressed air cylinder 20 is arranged on the holding plate 10 on both sides of the sewing slot 12 . On the piston rod 21 of each cylinder 20 , a flat finger 22 is fastened, which extends just above the holding plate 10 transversely to the direction of movement of the piston rods 21 over the respective leg of the U-shaped sewing slot 12 .

The mode of operation is as follows:
First, the sewing material part W is spread out flat on the support plate below the folding device 8 and aligned with the help of markings (not shown). Then the pocket T is bent in a known and therefore not explained manner in the folding device 8 on three sides and then lowered in a pattern-wise manner onto the workpiece W. The guide device 5 now moves the material holder 6 in the area of the folding device 8 and takes over the sewing material part W and the pocket T placed on it in a known manner. Here, the holding plate 10 provided with an adhesive coating presses the sewing material part W against the smooth surface polished surface of the platen 1 .

The operator swivels the pressure plate 14 into its open position with one hand and, with the other hand, inserts the flap P with the edge area to be sewn into the recess 13 , aligning the flap edge with the stop bars 19 . After releasing the handle 16 , the leaf spring 15 pivots the pressure plate 14 back into the pressure position according to FIG. 5, as a result of which the edge region of the flap P located in the recess 13 is pressed against the sewing material W. The remaining part of the flap P lies loosely on the holding plate 10 and the fingers 22 . Overall, the flap P is already in a position that corresponds to the later position of use, in which the flap P partially overlaps the pocket T.

Thereafter, the sewing material holder 6 is transferred by the guide device 5 from the takeover position in the area of the folding device 8 into the sewing position, the holding plate 10 moving the sewing material part W with the pocket T along the support plate 1 . Since the workpiece W and the pocket T are frictionally gripped by the holding plate 10 , there is neither a relative movement of the two workpiece parts W and T relative to the workpiece holder 10 nor with one another. Furthermore, since the flap P is clamped within the material holder 6 , its relative position to the pocket T is also secured during the displacement movement of the material holder 6 .

The fabric holder 6 is moved in the raised-down device 4 first with the sewing slot 17 in sewing position. As soon as this is reached, the hold-down device 4 is lowered onto the pressure plate 14 , as a result of which the latter is pressed even more firmly against the clamped edge area of the flap P. Following this, the flap seam N1 is formed with the holding plate 10 resting on the workpiece W and the pocket T and the flap P is sewn onto the workpiece W.

After the flap P is sewn on, the material holder 6 is moved until the flap P is outside the area of the hold-down device 4 . The compressed air cylinders 20 are then struck, whereupon they turn the part of the flap P overlapping the pocket T according to FIG. 6 in the direction of the pressure plate 14 with the fingers 22 .

As soon as the sewing slot 12 is exposed, the pocket seam N2 is formed and thus the pocket T is sewn onto the workpiece W. During these working steps, the workpiece holder 6 remains in its lowered position, in which the holding plate 10 continues to hold the workpiece W and the pocket T in a frictional manner and prevents any relative movement of the workpiece parts W, T and P with respect to the workpiece holder 6 and with one another. In this way it is ensured that the flap P and the pocket T are sewn onto the workpiece W exactly in the original mutual alignment position.

Embodiment 2

The sewing material holder 7 shown in FIGS . 7 to 13 has an essentially U-shaped frame 30 with a coupling strip 31 , with the aid of which the sewing material holder 7 can be coupled to the guide device 5 .

On the underside of the frame 30 , a flat and particularly flat holding plate 32 for the workpiece W and the pocket T placed thereon is fastened. The holding plate 32 contains a sewing slot 33 for the passage of the needle 3 when producing the substantially U-shaped pocket seam N2. At a short distance from the sewing slot 33 , a rectangular recess 34 is formed in the holding plate 32 , which extends below the coupling bar 31 .

On the frame 30 four bearing blocks 35 are attached adjacent to the holding plate 32 . In the bearing block 35 , a guide groove 36 is contained, which is composed of a central part 37 running parallel to the holding plate 32 and two inclined end regions 38 .

The material holder 7 has a flat carrier plate 39 above the holding plate 32 , which has four lugs 41 on its side edges 40, each with a freely rotatable roller 42 projecting beyond the side edge 40 . The carrier plate 39 is movably mounted on the frame 30 with the aid of the rollers 42 which engage in the corresponding guide grooves 36 of the bearing blocks 35 .

The carrier plate 39 contains a sewing slot 43 for forming the pocket seam N2, which corresponds to the sewing slot 33 in the holding plate 32 . At a greater distance from the sewing slot 43 , a recess 44 is contained in the carrier plate 39 , which essentially corresponds to the size and shape of the flaps P to be sewn on. A second, much narrower cutout 45 in the support plate 39 opens into the cutout 44 and extends between the legs of the sewing slot 43 . The two cutouts 44 , 45 are assigned a substantially T-shaped plate 46 which fits into them and which is composed of a web part 47 and a pressure plate 48 for the flap P to be sewn on. The plate 46 is held by a leaf spring 49 , one half of the leaf spring 49 being fastened to the carrier plate 39 and the other half to the web part 47 .

The leaf spring 49 serves not only as a support for the plate 46 , but also as a joint, so that the plate 46 can be pivoted back and forth between a pressure position according to FIG. 12 and an open position according to FIGS. 8 and 10. The leaf spring 49 is biased so that it holds the plate 46 or the pressure plate 48 in the pressure position. On the leaf spring 49 , a narrow angle plate 50 is fastened, which has a handle part 51 .

The pressure plate 48 contains a wide sewing slot 52 for the formation of the flap seam N1. The shape and size of this sewing slot 52 corresponds exactly to that of the sewing slot 17 of the first embodiment.

A wire-shaped folding rod 53 is embedded and fastened in the underside of the carrier plate 39 and runs in the lower region of the recess 44 transversely to the direction of movement of the carrier plate 39 .

A compressed air cylinder 54 is pivotally mounted on the frame 30 on both sides of the carrier plate 39 . The piston rods 55 are connected via ball joints 56 to driver pieces 57 fastened on the carrier plate 39 .

The mode of operation is as follows:
As in the first embodiment, the workpiece W is spread out flat and aligned below the folding device 8 . As soon as the pocket T is folded over and placed on the workpiece W, the guide device 5 moves the workpiece holder 7 into the area of the folding device 8 and takes over the two workpiece parts W and T. Here, the holding plate 32 provided with an adhesive coating presses the workpiece W against the platen 1 . At this point at the latest, the carrier plate 39 is moved with the aid of the two compressed air cylinders 54 into the position shown in FIGS . 7 and 8, in which the sewing slot 52 for the flap seam N1 is the normal small distance to the sewing slot 33 formed in the holding plate 32 for the pocket seam N2 and the sewing slot 43 contained in the carrier plate 39 for the pocket seam N2 is offset with respect to the sewing slot 33 .

The operator then pivots the plate 46 into its open position with one hand and, with the other hand, inserts the flap P into the recess 44 in the carrier plate 39 , the majority of the flap P resting on the holding plate 32 and, according to FIG. 9, also above of the folding rod 53 is. The flap P is aligned by the operator on the obtuse-angled boundary edge of the recess 44 . The edge region of the flap P to be sewn projects beyond the boundary edge of the recess 34 of the holding plate 32 and lies directly on the workpiece W. After releasing the handle part 51 , the leaf spring 49 pivots the plate 46 and thus its pressure plate 48 back into the pressure position according to FIG. 7, as a result of which the edge region of the flap P to be sewn is pressed against the sewing material part W. The remaining part of the flap P is held down on the holding plate 32 by the pressure plate 48 , which has a flat recess 58 ( FIG. 8) in this area. The folding bar 53 is still under this part of the flap P. Overall, the flap P is already at this point in a position that corresponds to the later position of use, in which the flap P partially overlaps the pocket T.

The sewing material holder 7 is then transferred into the sewing position by the guide device 5 . Since here the workpiece W and the pocket T are frictionally gripped by the holding plate 32 and the flap P is pressed against the workpiece W by the pressure plate 48 against slipping, the relative position of the workpiece parts W, T and P with respect to one another and with respect to the workpiece holder 7 is secured.

The workpiece holder 7 is moved in the raised-down device 4 first with the sewing slot 52 in sewing position. As soon as this is reached, the hold-down device 4 is lowered onto the pressure plate 48 , as a result of which the latter is pressed even more firmly against the edge region of the flap P to be sewn on. Following this, the flap seam N1 is formed with the holding plate 32 still resting on the workpiece W and the pocket T and the flap P is sewn onto the workpiece W.

After the flap P is sewn on, the material holder 7 is moved so far that the grip part 51 gets under the raised hold-down device 4 . Thereafter, by acting on the two compressed air cylinders 54, the carrier plate 39 is displaced relative to the holding plate 32 from the initial position shown in FIGS . 7 and 8 into the sewing position shown in FIGS . 12 and 13. This displacement movement is facilitated by the fact that the rollers 42 are pushed upwards at the beginning of the displacement in the left oblique end region 38 of the guide grooves 36 and thereby lift the carrier plate 39 from the holding plate 32 , with the result that the carrier plate 39 does not last as long Has contact with the holding plate 32 as long as the rollers 42 move within the central part 37 of the guide grooves 36 . Only when the rollers 42 reach the right oblique end region 38 of the guide grooves 36 towards the end of the displacement movement is the carrier plate 39 lowered again onto the holding plate 32 .

When the support plate 39 is lifted, the grip part 51 is pressed against the hold-down device 4 located above it and swiveled downwards so far that the plate 46 reaches the open position shown in FIG. 10. In the course of the displacement movement of the carrier plate 39 , with the plate 46 still held in the open position, the part of the flap P overlapping the pocket T is folded over by the folding rod 53 as shown in FIGS . 10 and 11. Since the folding bar 53 is moved vertically over the seam N1, there is a larger folding radius than if the folding bar 53 ran closely over the seam N1. This leads to the fact that the flap P is turned over, in particular when it is used such. B. in work clothes or uniforms made of comparatively stiff material. At the end of the displacement movement, the sewing slot 43 is aligned with the sewing slot 33 and the carrier plate 39 is therefore in the sewing position for the pocket seam N2. In Fig. 12 Darge presented sewing position of the support plate 39 , the handle portion 51 is outside the effective range of the hold-down device 4 , so that the leaf spring 49 pivots the plate 46 back into the pressing position and holds it.

After the carrier plate 39 has reached its sewing position, the pocket seam N2 is formed and thus the pocket T is sewn onto the workpiece W. During all of these work steps - ie also during the displacement of the carrier plate 39 - the material holder 7 remains in its lowered position, in which the holding plate 32 continues to hold the material part W and the pocket T in a frictional manner and any relative movement of the workpiece parts W, T and P relative to that Sewing material holder 7 and prevented from each other. In this way it is also ensured in the second exemplary embodiment that the flap P and the pocket T are sewn onto the workpiece W exactly in the original mutual alignment position.

Embodiment 3

The sewing material holder 70 shown in FIGS . 14 to 20 is constructed essentially similarly to the sewing material holder 7 of the second exemplary embodiment. It therefore also has an essentially U-shaped frame 71 with a coupling strip 72 , with the aid of which the material holder 70 can be coupled to the guide device 5 .

On the underside of the frame 71 , a flat and particularly flat holding plate 73 for the workpiece W and the pocket T placed thereon is fastened. The holding plate 73 contains a sewing slot 74 for the passage of the needle 3 when producing the essentially U-shaped pocket seam N1. At a short distance from the sewing slot 74 , a rectangular recess 75 is formed in the holding plate 73 , which extends below the coupling bar 72 .

On the frame 71 four bearing blocks 76 are attached adjacent to the holding plate 73 . In the bearing block 76 , a guide groove 77 is contained, which is composed of a central part 78 running parallel to the holding plate 73 and two inclined end regions 79 .

The material holder 70 has a flat support plate 80 above the holding plate 73 , which has on its side edges 81 four lugs 82 , each with a freely rotatable roller 83 projecting beyond the side edge 81 . The carrier plate 80 is movably mounted on the frame 71 with the aid of the rollers 83 which engage in the corresponding guide grooves 77 of the bearing blocks 76 . A compressed air cylinder 84 is pivotally mounted on the frame 71 on both sides of the carrier plate 80 . The piston rods 85 are connected via ball joints 86 with plate pieces 87 fastened on the carrier plate 80 .

The carrier plate 80 contains a sewing slot 88 for the formation of the pocket seam N1, which corresponds to the sewing slot 88 in the holding plate 73 . At a greater distance from the sewing slot 88 , a recess 89 is contained in the carrier plate 80 , which serves to receive the open edge K of the raw panel RP to be sewn on. The carrier plate 80 contains a cross piece 90 , the edge 91 of which delimits the recess 89 . The crossbar 90 has a sewing slot 92 for the formation of the second flap seam N3.

On the cross bar 90, a spring plate 93 is attached, which has a round cross through the sewing slot 92 down to below the underside of the cross bar 90 projecting spring strip 94th

In the recess 89 opens a second, much narrower savings 95 in the carrier plate 80 , which extends to between the legs of the sewing slot 88 . A substantially T-shaped plate 96 is assigned to the two recesses 89 , 95 and is composed of a web part 97 and a pressure bar 98 . The plate 96 is held by a leaf spring 99 , one half of the leaf spring 99 being fastened to the carrier plate 80 and the other half to the web part 97 .

The leaf spring 99 serves not only as a support for the plate 96 , but also as a joint, so that the plate 96 can be pivoted back and forth between an open position according to FIG. 15 and a pressing position according to FIG. 16. The leaf spring 99 is biased so that it holds the plate 96 or the pressure bar 98 in the pressure position. A narrow angle plate 100 , which has a handle part 101 , is fastened on the leaf spring 99 . The pressure bar 98 contains a sewing slot 102 for the formation of the first flap seam N2.

The mode of operation is as follows:
The material part W is spread out and aligned flat below the folding device 8 . As soon as the pocket T is folded over and placed on the workpiece W, the guide device 5 moves the workpiece holder 70 into the area of the folding device 8 and takes over the two workpiece parts W and T. Here, the holding plate 73 provided on the underside with an adhesive coating presses the workpiece W against the platen 1 . At this point at the latest, the support plate 80 is moved with the aid of the two compressed air cylinders 84 into the position shown in FIGS . 14 to 16, in which the sewing slot 88 for the pocket seam N1 is aligned with the sewing slot 74 in the holding plate 73 .

The operator then swings the plate 96 into its open position with one hand and, with the other hand, places the open edge K of the flap RP through the recess 89 in the carrier plate 80 and the recess 75 in the holding plate 73 on the workpiece W. The main part of the flap RP extends obliquely upwards at a flat angle and lies with the opposite edge on the crosspiece 90 . After releasing the handle part 101 , the leaf spring 99 pivots the plate 96 back into the pressing position, as a result of which the edge region of the flap RP to be sewn on is pressed against the workpiece part W. Then the material holder 70 is transferred by the guide device 5 into the sewing position. Since in this case the workpiece W and the pocket T are gripped by the holding plate 73 and the flap RP is pressed against the workpiece W by the pressure bar 98 so that it does not slip, the relative position of the workpiece parts W, T and RP to one another and to the workpiece holder 70 is secured.

When the holding-down device 4 is raised, the material holder 70 is first moved into the sewing position with the overlapping sewing slots 74 , 88 . As soon as this is reached, the hold-down device 4 is lowered onto the carrier plate 80 and the pocket seam N1 is formed first. Subsequently, with the holding plate 73 still resting on the workpiece W and the pocket T, the first flap seam N2 is formed through the sewing slot 102 of the pressure bar 98 and the flap RP is thus fastened on the workpiece W.

The hold-down device 4 is then raised and, by acting on the two compressed air cylinders 84, the carrier plate 80 is shifted to the left relative to the holding plate 73 from the sewing position shown in FIGS . 14 to 16 into the offset position shown in FIGS . 18 and 19. This displacement movement is facilitated by the fact that the rollers 83 are pushed upwards at the beginning of the displacement in the right oblique end region 79 of the guide grooves 77 and thereby lift the carrier plate 80 from the holding plate 73 , with the result that the carrier plate 80 does not last as long Has contact with the holding plate 73 as long as the rollers 83 move within the central part 78 of the guide grooves 77 . Only when the rollers 83 reach the left oblique end region 79 of the guide grooves 77 towards the end of the displacement movement is the carrier plate 80 lowered again onto the holding plate 73 .

In the course of the displacement movement of the carrier plate 80 , with the plate 96 still held in the pressing position, that part of the flap RP which extends to the right of the flap seam N2 in accordance with FIG. 16 is moved through the edge 91 of the transverse web 90 moving from right to left, as shown in FIG. 17 turned over to flap seam N2 in the later use position. Since the cross bar 90 is moved vertically over the seam N2, there is a larger folding radius than if the cross bar 90 ran closely over the seam N2. This leads to the fact that the flap RP is relieved, especially when it is used, e.g. B. in work clothes or uniforms made of comparatively stiff material. Towards the end of the sliding movement, the spring bar 94 lowers on the folded edge of the flap RP that has been folded over and keeps it flat, as shown in FIGS. 19 and 20. After the carrier plate 80 has reached its end position and again rests on the holding plate 73 , the second flap seam N3 is formed through the sewing slot 92 now in the sewing position, by means of which the flap RP is fastened to the workpiece W in its position of use. Since the originally open edge K is now covered by the flap RP and the second flap seam N3 lies close to the edge K, the edge K is not only invisible but also secured against fraying.

During all these work steps - ie also during the displacement of the carrier plate 80 - the material holder 70 remains in its lowered position, in which the holding plate 73 always holds the material part W and the pocket T in a frictional manner and any movement of the workpiece parts W, T and RP relative to each other the fabric holder 70 and each other prevented. In this way it is ensured that the flap RP and the pocket T are sewn onto the workpiece W exactly in the original mutual alignment position.

Embodiment 4

The sewing material holder 110 shown in FIGS . 21 to 24 is largely identical to the sewing material holder 70 of the third embodiment, for example. To simplify the description, reference is therefore made to the detailed description of the third exemplary embodiment in the case of identical components using the same reference signs.

The material holder 110 accordingly also has a frame 71 . On its underside, a holding plate 73 is attached, which contains a sewing slot 74 for the pocket seam N1 and a recess 75 .

Arranged above the holding plate 73 is a carrier plate 80 which can be displaced relative to the holding plate 73 by means of two compressed air cylinders 84 and which has a sewing slot 88 for the pocket seam N1. The carrier plate 80 contains a recess 89 which serves to receive the open edge K of the raw plate RP to be sewn on. The carrier plate 80 also contains a crossbar 90 which has a sewing slot 92 for the second flap seam N3 and carries a spring plate 93 with a spring strip 94 .

Up to this point, the material holder 110 is identical to the material holder 70 . The differences are described below.

An elongated recess 111, which is contained on the side of the two legs of the sewing slot 88 , opens into the recess 89 . A leaf spring 112 is arranged in the area of these two recesses 111 , one leg 113 being fastened to the holding plate 73 with the interposition of a thin spacer plate 114 . The other leg 115 of the leaf spring 112 is attached to the underside of a flat extension 116 , which is part of a lever 117 shaped at an obtuse angle. The ends of the two levers 117 pointing away from the material holder 110 are connected to one another by a grip strip 118 .

An air cylinder 119 is attached to the other end of each lever 117 . A holding piece 121 is arranged on each of the piston rods 120 . The two holding pieces 121 jointly carry a flat pressure bar 122 which, like the pressure bar 98 of the third exemplary embodiment, has a sewing slot 123 for the formation of the first flap seam N2. The side surface 124 of the pressure bar 122 which faces the compressed air cylinder 119 and runs transversely to the direction of displacement of the support plate 80 is, as can best be seen in FIGS . 22 and 23, bevelled by approximately 45 °. The immediately opposite side surface 125 of the holding plate 73 , which forms a boundary of the recess 75 , is also beveled in a corresponding manner, that is to say the two side surfaces 124 , 125 run parallel to one another when the pressure bar 122 is in the position shown in FIGS . 23 and 24 location shown.

The mode of operation is as follows:
The material part W is spread out and aligned flat below the folding device 8 . As soon as the pocket T has been folded over and placed on the workpiece W, the guide device 5 moves the workpiece holder 110 into the area of the folding device 8 and takes over the two workpiece parts W and T. Here, the holding plate 73 provided with an adhesive coating presses the workpiece W against the platen 1 . At this point at the latest, the support plate 80 is moved with the aid of the two compressed air cylinders 84 into the position shown in FIGS . 21 to 23, in which the sewing slot 88 for the pocket seam N1 is aligned with the sewing slot 74 in the holding plate 73 .

Then the operator actuates the grip strip 118 with one hand, thereby pivoting the pressure strip 122 into its open position and, with the other hand, places the open edge K of the flap RP through the recess 89 in the carrier plate 80 and the recess 75 in the holding plate 73 on the workpiece W. The main part of the flap RP extends obliquely upwards at a flat angle and lies with the opposite edge on the crosspiece 90 . After releasing the grip strip 118 , the leaf spring 112 swivels the pressure strip 122 back into the pressure position, as a result of which the edge region of the flap RP to be sewn is pressed against the workpiece W. The sewing material holder 110 is then transferred into the sewing position by the guide device 5 . Since here the workpiece W and the pocket T are gripped by the holding plate 73 and the flap RP is pressed against the workpiece W by the pressure bar 112 so that it does not slip, the relative position of the workpieces W, T and RP to one another and to the workpiece holder 110 is secured.

The sewing material holder 110 is first moved to the sewing position with the overlying sewing slots 74 , 88 when the holding-down device 4 is raised. As soon as this is reached, the hold-down device 4 is lowered onto the carrier plate 80 and the pocket seam N1 is first formed. Following this, with the holding plate 73 still resting on the workpiece W and the pocket T, the first flap seam N2 is formed through the sewing slot 123 of the pressure bar 122 and the flap RP is thus fastened on the workpiece W.

The hold-down device 4 is then raised and, by acting on the two compressed air cylinders 84, the carrier plate 80 is shifted from the sewing position shown in FIGS . 21 to 23 to the left relative to the holding plate 73 into the offset position. This shifting movement takes place in the same way as described in the third exemplary embodiment.

In the course of the displacement movement of the support plate 80 which according to FIG 23 the right extending from the flap seam N2 part of the flap RP is at still held in pressing position pressing strip 122nd of itself shown by the edge 91 from right to left moving crosspiece 90 as shown in Fig. 24 turn around the pressure bar 122 in the later position of use. Since the cross bar 90 is moved at a vertical distance over the pressure bar 122 , there is a larger folding radius than if the cross bar 90 ran closely over the pressure bar 122 . This leads to the fact that the flap RP is relieved, especially when it is used, e.g. B. in work clothes or uniforms made of comparatively stiff material. Towards the end of Verschiebebe movement, the spring bar 94 lowers to the folding edge of the folded flap RP and pushes it against the pressure strip 122nd After the carrier plate 80 has reached its end position and again rests on the holding plate 73 , the two compressed air cylinders 119 are acted on, which then move the pressure bar 122 to the left. The sloping side surface 124 of the pressure bar 122 slides over the sloping side surface 125 of the holding plate 73 , whereby the pressure bar 122 is lifted onto the holding plate 73 . Subsequently, the pressure bar 122 is moved so far on the holding plate 73 and thereby in the region of the recess 89 which has also been displaced to the left by the displacement of the carrier plate 80 , until it is completely removed from the region of the crosspiece 90 or from the recess 75 of the holding plate 73 . In this way, the pressure strip 122 is simultaneously also pulled out of the formed in the region of the first flap seam N2 folding zone of the flap RP, after which the spring strip 94 compresses the folding edge of the folded flap RP flat.

The second flap seam N3 is then formed through the sewing slot 92 , which is now in the sewing position and through which the flap RP is fastened to the sewing material part W in its position of use. Since the originally open edge K is now covered by the flap RP and the second flap seam N3 lies close to the edge K, the edge K is not only invisible but also secured against fraying.

During all of these work steps - ie also during the displacement of the carrier plate 80 - the material holder 110 remains in its lowered position, in which the holding plate 73 always holds the material part W and the pocket T in a frictional manner and any movement of the workpiece parts W, T and RP relative to each other the fabric holder 110 and prevented from each other. In this way it is ensured that the flap RP and the pocket T are sewn onto the workpiece W exactly in the original mutual alignment position.

Reference list

1

Material support plate

2nd

sewing machine

3rd

needle

4th

Hold-down

5

Management facility

6

Material holder

7

Material holder

8th

Folding device

10th

Retaining plate

11

Clutch bar

12th

Sewing slit

13

Recess

14

Pressure plate

15

Leaf spring

16

Handle

17th

Sewing slit

18th

Interruption

19th

Stop bars

20th

Air cylinder

21

Piston rod

22

finger

30th

frame

31

Clutch bar

32

Retaining plate

33

Sewing slit

34

Recess

35

Bearing block

36

Guide grooves

37

Middle section

38

End ranges

39

Carrier plate

40

Side edges

41

Lugs

42

roll

43

Sewing slit

44

Recess

45

Recess

46

plate

47

Bridge part

48

Pressure plate

49

Leaf spring

50

Angle plate

51

Handle part

52

Sewing slit

53

Folding rod

54

Air cylinder

55

Piston rod

56

Ball joints

57

Driver piece

58

Recess

70

Material holder

71

frame

72

Clutch bar

73

Retaining plate

74

Sewing slit

75

Recess

76

Bearing block

77

Guide groove

78

Middle section

79

End area

80

Carrier plate

81

Side edges

82

Lugs

83

role

84

Air cylinder

85

Piston rod

86

Ball joints

87

Driver piece

88

Sewing slit

89

Recess

90

Crossbar

91

Edge

92

Sewing slit

93

Spring plate

94

Female connector

95

Recess

96

plate

97

Bridge part

98

Pressure bar

99

Leaf spring

100

Angle plate

101

Handle part

102

Sewing slit

110

Material holder

111

Recess

112

Leaf spring

113

leg

114

Spacer plate

115

leg

116

approach

117

lever

118

Handle bar

119

Air cylinder

120

Piston rod

121

Holding piece

122

Pressure bar

123

Sewing slit

124

Side surface

125

Side surface
P flap (working examples 1 + 2)
T pocket (examples 1 + 2)
W sewing material part (working examples 1 + 2)
N1 flap seam (working examples 1 + 2)
N2 pocket seam (embodiments 1 + 2)
RP raw board (working examples 3 + 4)
N1 pocket seam (working examples 3 + 4)
N2 first flap seam (working examples 3 + 4)
N3 second flap seam (working examples 3 + 4)
K edge (working examples 3 + 4)

Claims (10)

1. A method for sewing a finished board and a pocket partially covered by it onto a workpiece using a sewing unit with a workpiece support plate, a sewing machine and a guide device having a workpiece holder, characterized by the following steps:

• a) the bag (T) folded over in the edge area and the workpiece (W) are frictionally gripped by the workpiece holder in cooperation with the workpiece support plate, the frictional holder being continuously maintained during the subsequent work steps,
• b) the flap (P) is positioned in the material holder in its later position of use,
• c) the workpiece (W), the pocket (T) and the flap (P) are fed to the sewing machine by the guide device,
• d) the flap (P) is connected to the workpiece (W) by a seam (N1),
• e) the part of the flap (P) overlapping the pocket (T) is removed from the region of the pocket (T) and
• f) the pocket (T) is connected to the workpiece (W) by a seam (N2).

2. Sewing unit for performing the method according to claim 1 with the following features:

• a) a sewing machine ( 2 ) and a folding device ( 8 ) for a bag (T) arranged above a material support plate ( 1 ),
• b) a sewing material holder ( 6 ; 7 ) with a holding plate ( 10 ; 32 ) for the pocket (T) placed on a sewing material part (W), the holding plate ( 10 ; 32 ) having at least one recess ( 13 ; 34 ) for receiving it of the edge region to be sewn on a flap (P) and a pocket seam sewing slot ( 12 ; 33 ), with a pivotally mounted pressure plate ( 14 ; 48 ) for at least the edge region of the flap (P) to be sewn on and with at least one by drive means ( 20 ; 54 ) displaceable folding element ( 22 ; 53 ) for the part of the flap (P) overlapping the pocket (T), and
• c) a guide device ( 5 ) for moving the material holder ( 6 ; 7 ) from the folding device ( 8 ) to the sewing machine ( 2 ) and for carrying out a relative movement between the material holder ( 6 ; 7 ) and the sewing machine ( 2 ) when sewing on the flap ( P) and the bag (T).

3. Sewing unit according to claim 2, characterized in that the pressure plate ( 14 ) for the flap (P) on the holding plate ( 10 ) for the pocket (T) is arranged and two flat fingers ( 22 ) are provided as a folding element, which with the piston rod ( 21 ) are each connected to its own pressure medium cylinder ( 20 ) attached to the holding plate ( 10 ). 4. Sewing unit according to claim 2, characterized in that

• a) above the particularly flat-shaped holding plate ( 32 ) for the pocket (T) is arranged in a horizontal plane parallel to the center line of the pocket (T) displaceable support plate ( 39 ) which has a sewing slot ( 43 ) for the pocket seam (N2) and at a greater distance from it has a recess ( 44 ) for receiving the flap (P),
• b) the pressure plate ( 48 ) for the flap (P) on the support plate ( 39 ) is arranged,
• c) a folding rod ( 53 ) extending transversely in the region of the recess ( 44 ) is arranged on the carrier plate ( 39 ) and
• d) the carrier plate ( 39 ) can be moved into two different positions by means of two pressure medium cylinders ( 54 ), one sewing slot ( 52 ) provided in the pressure plate ( 48 ) for the flap seam (N1) above the edge region of the flap to be sewn on in the one position (P) lies and the pocket seam sewing slot ( 43 ) of the carrier plate ( 39 ) relative to the pocket seam sewing slot ( 33 ) of the holding plate ( 32 ) is set, while in the other position the sewing slot ( 52 ) of the pressure plate ( 48 ) opposite the flap (P) now sewn on the edge area, on the other hand the pocket seam sewing slot ( 43 ) of the carrier plate ( 39 ) is flush with the pocket seam sewing slot ( 33 ) of the holding plate ( 32 ).

5. A method for sewing a raw board and a pocket partially covered by it onto a workpiece using a sewing unit with a workpiece support plate, a sewing machine and a guide device having a workpiece holder, characterized by the following steps:

• a) the bag (T) folded over in the edge area and the workpiece (W) are frictionally gripped by the workpiece holder in cooperation with the sewing material support plate, the frictional holder being continuously maintained during the subsequent work steps,
• b) the flap (RP) is positioned in the sewing material holder in an alignment position rotated by 180 ° with respect to the finished use position
• c) the workpiece (W), the pocket (T) and the flap (RP) are fed to the sewing machine by the guide device,
• d) the pocket (T) is connected to the workpiece (W) by a seam (N1),
• e) the flap (RP) is connected to the workpiece (W) by a seam (N2),
• f) the flap (RP) is folded over the previously formed seam (N2) into the position of use and connected to the workpiece (W) by a further seam (N3).

6. Sewing device for performing the method according to claim 5 with the following features:

• a) on a sewing material support plate ( 1 ) is a sewing machine ( 2 ) and above the sewing material support plate ( 1 ) a folding device ( 8 ) for a bag (T) is arranged,
• b) a sewing material holder ( 70 ) is connected to a guide device ( 5 ) which for moving the sewing material holder ( 70 ) from the folding device ( 8 ) to the sewing machine ( 2 ) and for carrying out a relative movement between the sewing material holder ( 70 ) and sewing machine ( 2 ) when sewing on the pocket (T) and flap (RP),
• c) the sewing material holder ( 70 ) has a holding plate ( 73 ) for the pocket (T) placed on the sewing material part (W), the holding plate ( 73 ) having a cutout ( 75 ) for receiving the raw end edge (K) of the flap (RP) and a sewing slot ( 74 ) for the pocket seam (N1),
• d) on the holding plate ( 73 ) a parallel to the plane and parallel to the center line of the pocket (T) ver slidable carrier plate ( 80 ) is arranged, which also has a sewing slot ( 88 ) for the pocket seam (N1) and a recess ( 89 ) for receiving the flap (RP),
• e) on the carrier plate ( 80 ) there is a pressure bar ( 98 ) which can be swiveled into the recess ( 89 ) for the flap (RP) and which has a sewing slot ( 102 ) for the first flap seam (N2),
• f) the carrier plate ( 80 ) contains a crosspiece ( 90 ) which has an edge ( 91 ) delimiting the recess ( 89 ) for the flap (RP) and a sewing slot ( 92 ) for the second flap seam (N3), and
• g) the carrier plate ( 80 ) can be moved into two different positions, in one position the sewing slot ( 102 ) in the pressure bar ( 98 ) for the first flap seam (N2) above the open end edge (K) of the flap (RP ), the sewing slot ( 88 ) for the pocket seam (N1) is flush with the corresponding sewing slot ( 74 ) of the holding plate ( 73 ) and the front edge ( 91 ) of the crossbar ( 90 ) lies under the flap (RP), while in the other Position of the sewing slot ( 92 ) contained in the crosspiece ( 90 ) is in the sewing position for the second flap seam (N3), the sewing slot ( 88 ) for the pocket seam (N1) which has now been carried out is offset relative to the corresponding sewing slot ( 74 ) of the holding plate ( 73 ) and the front edge ( 91 ) of the crosspiece ( 90 ) lies above the flap (RP) which has been turned into the final position of use by the displacement of the support plate ( 80 ).

7. Sewing device for performing the method according to claim 5 with the following features:

• a) on a sewing material support plate ( 1 ) is a sewing machine ( 2 ) and above the sewing material support plate ( 1 ) a folding device ( 8 ) for a bag (T) is arranged,
• b) a sewing material holder ( 110 ) is connected to a guide device ( 5 ) which for moving the sewing material holder ( 110 ) from the folding device ( 8 ) to the sewing machine ( 2 ) and for carrying out a relative movement between the sewing material holder ( 110 ) and sewing machine ( 2 ) when sewing on the pocket (T) and flap (RP),
• c) the sewing material holder ( 110 ) has a holding plate ( 73 ) for the pocket (T) placed on the sewing material part (W), the holding plate ( 73 ) having a cutout ( 75 ) for receiving the raw end edge (K) of the flap (RP) and a sewing slot ( 74 ) for the pocket seam (N1),
• d) on the holding plate ( 73 ) a parallel to the plane and parallel to the center line of the pocket (T) ver slidable carrier plate ( 80 ) is arranged, which also has a sewing slot ( 88 ) for the pocket seam (N1) and a recess ( 89 ) for receiving the flap (RP),
• e) on the holding plate ( 73 ) is provided on both sides of the sewing slot ( 74 ) for the pocket seam (N1) each through a corresponding recess ( 111 ) in the carrier plate ( 80 ) passing through pivoting bracket ( 112-118 ), each carries a pressure cylinder ( 119 ); on the piston rods ( 120 ) of the cylinder ( 119 ) a in the recess ( 89 ) for the flap (RP) pivotable pressure bar ( 122 ) is arranged, which has a sewing slot ( 123 ) for the first flap seam (N2) and at the side surface ( 124 ) adjacent to the holding plate ( 73 ) is chamfered,
• f) the carrier plate ( 80 ) contains a crossbar ( 90 ) which has a recess ( 89 ) for the flap (RP) delimiting front edge ( 91 ) and a sewing slot ( 92 ) for the second flap seam (N3), and
• g) the carrier plate ( 80 ) can be moved into two different positions:
  in one position the sewing slot ( 88 ) for the pocket seam (N1) is aligned with the corresponding sewing slot ( 74 ) of the holding plate ( 73 ) and the front edge ( 91 ) of the crossbar ( 90 ) lies under the flap (RP);
  when the carrier plate ( 80 ) is moved into the second position, the pressure bar ( 122 ) remains in its pressure position; in the second position, the sewing slot ( 92 ) in the crossbar ( 90 ) is in the sewing position for the second flap seam (N3), the sewing slot ( 88 ) for the pocket seam (N1) that has now been carried out is opposite the corresponding sewing slot ( 74 ) Holding plate ( 73 ) is offset and the front edge ( 91 ) of the crosspiece ( 90 ) lies above the flap (RP) which has been turned into the final position of use by the displacement of the carrier plate ( 80 ), and
• h) the pressure bar ( 122 ) after moving the carrier plate ( 80 ) in its second position by the cylinder ( 119 ) under the crossbar ( 90 ) can be pulled out.

8. Sewing unit according to claim 6 or 7, characterized in that on the crossbar ( 90 ) a hold-down ( 93 ) is attached, which from a through the sewing slot ( 92 ) engaging and under the underside of the crossbar ( 90 ) projecting spring ( 94 ) is formed. 9. Sewing unit according to claim 4, 6, 7 or 8, characterized in that the holding plate ( 32 ; 73 ) is fixed to a frame ( 30 ; 71 ), the carrier plate ( 39 ; 80 ) arranged by means of four in the region of its corners , laterally over the edge ( 40 ; 81 ) of the carrier plate ( 39 ; 80 ) protruding rollers ( 42 ; 83 ) in guide grooves ( 36 ; 77 ) of corresponding, on the frame ( 30 ; 71 ) fixed bearing blocks ( 35 ; 76 ) and the pressure medium cylinders ( 54 ; 84 ) are supported on the frame ( 30 ; 71 ). 10. Sewing unit according to claim 9, characterized in that the guide grooves ( 36 ; 77 ) of the bearing blocks ( 35 ; 76 ) have obliquely downwardly extending end regions ( 38 ; 79 ).