DE1469275A1 - Process for the production of dimensionally stable and shape-retaining items of clothing from fabrics containing or consisting of cellulose - Google Patents

Description

Our reference: OZ 24 000 Rt / My Ludwigshafen / Eh., Nov. 26, 1965

Process for the production of dimensional and dimensionally stable Garments made from fabrics containing or consisting of cellulose

It is known that dimensionally stable and dimensionally stable items of clothing made of cellulose-containing or made of fabrics thereby to produce * that the tissue with one or more optionally etherified poly-N-methylol compounds and acidic Curing catalysts impregnated in aqueous solution, which impregnated The fabric is carefully dried, then made into the garments and the finished garments under Subjecting the shaping to a heat treatment, during which the f Poly-N-methylol compounds under the influence of the catalysts condense, i.e. with themselves or with reactive groups of the fiber material with the formation of coordinative bonds react.

The advantage of such procedures, which in Anglo-Saxon usage as "deferred curing" or "permanent press" is the fact that not only, as with other conventional finishing processes, the fabrics on which the garments are based are themselves protected against dimensional changes and creasing

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but that the stems and creases of the clothing

pieces are stabilized.

However, the methods of the type mentioned also have considerable disadvantages. So they require for the condensation of the poly-N-methylol compounds elaborate condensation ovens; one is still forced to to cut the garments larger than they should be in the final state, since the fabrics during the shaping before completion the condensation will shrink. According to the literature that has become known about these processes, it is essential for the Success that a partial reaction of the poly-N-methylol compounds is avoided prior to packaging and shaping. Poly-N-methylol compounds in this context include To understand monomeric substances that have two or more nitrogen-bonded hydroxymethyl or low molecular weight alkoxymethyl groups contain; they are generally derived from ureas, thioureas, 1,3,5-triazines and from ring-shaped compounds at least one; Urea structure, of acid amides, of mono- or from diurethanes.

It has now been found that just a partial reaction of the poly-N-methylol compounds before packaging and shaping then leads to particularly advantageous results when it takes place under controllable conditions and that you can accordingly avoid the above disadvantages if you Tissues that contain or consist of cellulose with at least two poly-N-methylol compounds are very different Condensation characteristics, namely with a) at least one condensing at low temperature, possibly

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ethereal poly-N-methylol compound and b) at least one at high temperature condensing, optionally etherified poly-N-methylol compound and also with c) at least one acidic curing catalyst impregnated, which dries the impregnated fabric under mild conditions, bringing it to a moderate temperature heated, in which only the components a) condense, they are then made up into garments and the garments are closed Lich heated with shaping to a higher temperature at which the components b) condense.

In pursuit of this general inventive concept, the present method consists in the tissue with a) one or more compounds of the formula

in which the radicals R _{1 are} hydrogen atoms or together the group -CH ₂ -CE ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH-CH ₂ - or -CH ₂ -O- and the radicals R ₂ , which can be identical or equal to each other, denote hydrogen atoms or alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
b) one or more compounds of the formulas

K, O-CH ₀ -N N-CH ₀ -OR, or

R ₅ O-CH ₂ -N-CO-OR ₆ -fO-CO-N-

It r- Xxr-yJXx'T

in which the radicals R ^, which are the same or different

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can, hydrogen atoms or alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R ₄ the group -CH-CH-, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH-

OR ₅ OR ₅ OR ₃

_{55 3}

or -CHp-C-CH-, R ₁ -, which are identical or different R ₇ E ₇ N) R ₃

can, hydrogen atoms, alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or groups of the formula R ₃ O-CH ₂ -, Rg is an alkylene group with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, R ^ methyl or ethyl groups and η zero or 1, the compounds being at least two R ₃ O-CK ₂ groups contain nuts

c) to impregnate one or more acidic curing catalysts, drying them at a fabric temperature of up to 100 C, a treatment at 11.0 to 125 ° C for condensation of the components a) to subdue them, then to assemble them into garments and to shape them a treatment at at least 14Ο C to condense the components b) to be subjected.

The compounds of group a) are the N, N ¹ -dimethylol compounds of urea, N, N ¹ -ethylene urea (= imidazolidone-2), N, N ¹ -trimethylene urea (= hexahydropyrimidone-2), des 5-Hydroxy-hexahydropyrimidone-2, of uron (= 5-0xa-hexahydropyrimidone-2), as well as their derivatives which are completely or partially etherified with methanol, ethanol, propanols or butanols on the methylol groups and / or in the nucleus.

Compounds of group b) are e.g. the Ν, Ν'-dimethylol compounds

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fertilize glyoxal monourein (= 4,5-dihydroxy-imidazolidon-2), 4-Hydroxy-hexahydropyrimidone-2, 4-hydroxy-5,5-dimethyl-hexahydropyrimidone-2 and ethylene glycol bis-N-ethylcarbamic acid ester, the Ν, Ν-dimethylol compounds of carbamic acid-ethyl-, -propyl- and -butyl ester, the di-, tri- and tetramethylol compounds of the dicarbamic acid esters of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3- and 1,4-butanediol, as well as those attached to the methylol groups and / or in the nucleus Hydroxyl groups completely or partially etherified with methanol, ethanol, propanols or butanols.

Acid curing catalysts are to be understood as meaning compounds which form acids under the condensation conditions. They are for accelerating the condensation of N-methylol compounds commonly used. Examples of acidic curing catalysts are: magnesium chloride, aluminum sulfate, Zinc chloride, zinc nitrate, ammonium chloride, ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphates and salts from strong acids, especially hydrochloric acid Amines, preferably hydroxyalkylamines, such as ethanolamine, Diethanolamine and 2-hydroxy-2-methyl-propylamine. The catalysts can be used individually or in combination.

By varying the amount of compounds of groups a) and b) and their quantitative ratio, you have the result in hand of the present process to match the type of fabric used and the garments to be made. It has proven, a total of $ 3 to $ 12, preferably $ 4 to $ 8, of poly-N-methylol compounds and, if necessary, their ethers, based on the weight of the dry Pasergutes, to be applied to the fabric and the compounds of groups a) and b) in weight

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ratio 1: 3 to 3: 1, preferably 2: 3 to 3: 2, to be used. the Acid curing catalysts are used in the usual amounts, i.e. expediently in an amount of 4 to 30? i, based on the Weight of all poly-N-methylol compounds and their ethers, upset.

The substances a), b) and c) can be applied separately to the fabric; however, it is simpler and therefore preferred to dissolve them and the tissue in a common, preferably aqueous, bath impregnate with this bath. In many cases it is advantageous to add wetting agents and / or conventional wetting agents to the impregnation bath Treatment agents for fiber materials, e.g. optical brighteners, water repellants, softeners and finishing agents, to add. Wetting agents are, for example, salts of alkylnaphthalenesulfonic acids, the alkali salts of sulfonated dioctyl succinate and addition products of alkylene oxides of fatty alcohols, alkylphenols, fatty amines and the like. Water repellants are e.g. the well-known aluminum or zirconium-containing paraffin-Iftachs emulsions, as well as preparations containing silicone and perfluorinated aliphatic compounds. As plasticizers, e.g. oxethylation products of higher molecular weight Fatty acids, fatty alcohols or fatty acid amides, higher molecular weight polyglycol ethers and their esters, higher molecular weight fatty acids, Fatty alcohol sulfonates, stearyl-N, N-ethylene urea and Called stearylamidomethylpyridinium chloride. For example, cellulose ethers or esters and alginates are used as finishing agents into consideration, as well as solutions or dispersions of synthetic polymers, e.g. of polyethylene, polyamides, oxyethylated

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Polyamides, polyvinyl ethers, polyvinyl alcohols ^ polyacrylic acid or their esters and amides and of corresponding polymethacrylic compounds, polyvinyl propionate, polyvinylpyrrolidone, of copolymers, such as those made from vinyl chloride and acrylic acid esters, from butadiene and styrene or acrylonitrile or from 0 ^ -ichlorethylene or vinyl acrylate or ß-chloroalkyl esters -ß-chloroethyl ether and acrylic acid amide or the amides of crotonic acid or maleic acid or from N-methylol methacrylic acid amide and others
polymerizable compounds.

It is particularly advantageous to add aqueous dispersions of copolymers of 1 to 25% of an N-methylolamide of an acrylic acid and 99 to 75% of one or more other polymerizable compounds to the impregnation bath. It has proven particularly useful to use these copolymers, calculated as solids, in
Amounts from $ 5 to $ 30, based on the weight of substances a) and b), to be used. This results in higher dry wrinkle angles and better permanence without any loss of strength
the equipment.

The material to be treated is soaked in the usual way with the impregnation bath. A padder is preferably used for this. That Soaked material is freed from excess impregnating liquid in a manner known per se by squeezing off. In general the liquor pick-up is between 50 and 100% by weight.

The impregnated fabric is dried in the usual way
carried out. It has proven particularly useful to dry the tissue only to the extent that it still comparable 4 to 8 $ residual moisture

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stay. The heat treatment for condensation of the components a) takes place in the usual way with finishing processes; it is only necessary to ensure that the temperature does not rise so high that the components b) also begin to react. The upper temperature limit of 125 ° C, on the other hand, offers sufficient security. The condensation of components a) is generally my advanced enough after 2 to 5 minutes to ensure the success of the procedure. It is straightforward possible to shape the fabric mechanically before or during the heat treatment, for example by calendering, chintzing, Carpentry, embossing or pleating. The shape imparted in this way is fixed by the condensation of components a).

The tissue treated in this way, which is still essentially unchanged Contains substances of group b), is now, immediately or, if necessary, after a storage period of any length up to after 18 months, for example after several months or a year, made-up, i.e. cut to size and sewn into garments.

The finished garments are subjected to the second heat treatment while being shaped at a temperature at which the substances b) now condense. The lower temperature limit of this treatment is 14O ⁰ C, the upper temperature is determined by the resistance of the tissue. Is preferably carried out by the heat treatment at 155 to 175 ⁰ C. The condensation is generally complete after 30 his 120 seconds. Steam ironing presses have proven particularly suitable for this treatment, especially those with additional electrical heating and press pressures in the order of magnitude of 2 kg / cm. The shape is particularly advantageous

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and perform heat treatment in the following three steps: 1. Steam in the ironing press until the garment has absorbed about $ 20 of moisture, 2. Drying off the moisture, optionally under vacuum, 3. condensation of the compounds b) in the ironing press. While this practice mainly then deserves the preference, if not highly refined yarns have been used to sew the garments, one can, especially if the yarns used are highly refined, they can also condense in the ironing press without steaming beforehand. If no high-temperature ironing presses are available, you also have the option of bringing the garment with you, for example To shape irons or presses with lower heat output and then condense the substances b) in a heat chamber to undertake.

The garments obtained in this way can be washed to remove the catalysts. In many cases it is unnecessary but this measure. The garments are completely dimensional and dimensionally stable when washed; even after numerous treatments they do not change their appearance in the washing machine.

Compared to the known methods described above the present process is characterized in that it can be carried out without an expensive condensation furnace that one Garments received exactly in the size that corresponds to the cut and that it is with its help with much greater certainty succeeds in producing dimensionally and dimensionally stable garments with smooth seams that do not deform in the laundry.

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place. It was not foreseeable that this progress would be achieved in the manner indicated, for one would have expected supposed that the presence of condensing under mild conditions Poly-N-methylol compounds would cause Mixed condensates of all the reactive components present are already formed in the first condensation stage and thus a second condensation would no longer be able to be carried out satisfactorily, all the more so as a previous condensation would result in the has shown to be disadvantageous as described known methods.

The present method can be performed using tissues made from natural or regenerated cellulose, such as cotton, linen, viscose rayon, viscose rayon and copper rayon, exist or which these in addition to other types of fibers, such as full / cellulose esters and in particular those made of synthetic materials, such as polyamides, polyesters, polyolefins and acrylonitrile polymers.

The parts and percentages given in the examples are weight units.

example 1

A cotton twill fabric with a square meter weight of 220 g is placed on a padder with a finishing liquor of the following composition impregnated:

75 parts of a 50-6 strength aqueous solution of JN,.] '- dimethylolethylene urea, ,

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75 parts of a 50 ^ aqueous solution of N, N'-

Dimethylolglyoxalmonourein,

30 parts of a 40 $ aqueous dispersion of a Copolymer of 89 parts of butyl acrylate and 5 parts of butanediol diacrylate 3 parts of N-methylol methacrylamide and 3 parts of acrylamide, 1 part of an adduct of 7 moles of ethylene oxide

1 mole of isocctylphenol,

20 parts of an aqueous 30> -igen polyethylene primary dispersion and

20 parts of crystallized magnesium chloride, made up to 1000 parts with water.

After impregnation, the fabric has a liquor pick-up of $ 75. It is dried at an air temperature of 110 ^° C. to 7 ^{° C.} > residual moisture; the tissue temperature remains below 100 C. The tissue is then subjected to ^{a temperature of 125 ° C. for 3 1/2 minutes.} After a washing machine treatment at 60 ° C., it now shows a shrinkage value of 1 '/ ί η warp and weft, whereas the unfinished fabric had a shrinkage value of $ 11 in the warp and 7.5 # in the weft.

A men's trousers is made after a storage time of 1 month ^l j from the treated tissue.

JAiI a steam ironing price with electrical auxiliary heating is now a three-piece garment

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Subjected to ironing process. The entire process takes place bracket at 170 ⁰ C. The first stage is a steaming process at this temperature, whereby the fabric absorbs up to $ 20 moisture. It takes about 20 seconds. The second stage involves evacuating excess moisture and takes about 10 seconds. The third stage involves condensing out the sensitized chemicals and takes about 90 seconds at the specified temperature.

A pair of trousers produced in this way was worn seven times for two days and after a spring wearing process once in the washing machine at 60 C in Washed in the presence of household detergent and hung up dripping wet. After the 7th wash, she was in shape, size and smoothness unchanged.

Example 2

A poplin fabric made from a mixed yarn of polyethylene terephthalate and cotton in a weight ratio in warp and weft 65: 3i> and has a square meter weight of 125 g is used with a Equipment liquor impregnated with the following composition:

65 parts of a 50 ^ aqueous solution of N, N ¹ -

Dimethylolethylene urea, 65 parts of a 50? ° aqueous solution of N, M -

Dimethylolethyl urethane,

18 parts of crystallized magnesium chloride, made up to 1000 parts with water.

After impregnation, the fabric has a liquor pick-up of $ 60. It is ^{dried at 10O 0} C to 6? E residual moisture and then

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Subjected to a temperature of 125 ^° C. for 3 minutes. It shows a washing machine according to treatment at 60 ⁰ C of a Krumpfwert

in warp and weft, whereas the unfinished fabric had a shrinkage value of 10? ό in the warp and 6.5 '/ "in the weft. Off the fabric treated in this way is used to produce a men's shirt after a storage time of 12 months. The ironing process proceeds as in the example T described. The shirt obtained in this way is extremely non-iron and dimensionally and dimensionally stable.

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Claims (3)

- 14 - O.Z. 24,000 claims 1. A process for the production of dimensionally stable and dimensionally stable garments from fabrics containing or consisting of cellulose by assembling fabrics which are impregnated with poly-N-methylol compounds or their ethers and acidic catalysts, and subsequent conversion of the poly-N-methylol compounds with shaping and Heat exposure, characterized in that the fabric with
\ a) one or more compounds of the formula R ₂ O-CH ₂ -N-CO-N-CH ₂ -OR ₂ ,
R ₁ R ₁ in which the radicals R _{1 are} hydrogen atoms or together the radical -CH ₀ -CH ₀ -, -CH ₀ -CH ₀ -CH ₀ -, -CH ₀ -CH-CH ₀ - or -CH ₀ -O-CH ₀ - dddddd \ d d d OR ₂ and the radicals R ₂ , which can be identical or different, represent hydrogen atoms or alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
b) one or more compounds of the formulas R, O-CH ₀ -N N-CH ₀ -OR, or R ₅ O-CH ₂ -N-CO-OR ₆ - ^ O-CO-N-CH - ^ - H Rr- Rr-OR, in which the radicals R ,, which can be the same or different, hydrogen atoms or alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R ₄ the group -CH-CH-, - _{? rv} 80 9 8 13/1 152 OR _x OR, OR, ³³ 3-15 O.Z. 24,000 or -CH ₀ -C-CH-, R _n , which are the same or different 2 / \\ '5'^& can, hydrogen atoms, alkyl groups with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or groups of the formula -CHp-OR ^, Rg is an alkylene group with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, R _{7 is} methyl or ethyl radicals and η is zero or 1, the compounds being at least two R, 0-CH ₂ - groups included, c) one or more acidic curing catalysts impregnated, dried at a temperature up to 11O ⁰ C, a treatment at 115 to 125 ⁰ C for the condensation of the components a) subjecting, then made up into garments and this minimum in with shaping treatment ns 14O ⁰ C for condensation of the components b) subjects. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the condensation of components b) at 155 to 175 ⁰ C is carried out. 3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the condensation of the components b) is carried out in a steam ironing press so that the garments are steamed to a moisture absorption of about $ 20, they are allowed to dry and the components b) then condense out leaves. BADISCHE ANILIN- & SODA-FABRIK AG fr 8098 13/1152 'ORIGINAL INSPECTBO