DE1467853A1 - Method for waving hair - Google Patents

Description

Clairol Incorporated, New York, N.Y., V.St.A. Method for waving hair

The invention relates to a method for safely applying a uniform permanent wave to excessively porous hair, especially on hair that is not uniformly porous. This porosity and non-uniformity of porosity may be from previous bleaching treatments or coloring treatments with oxidizing coloring compounds or from other hair treatments or conditions in which hair damage occurs or may occur.

Living hair that has been bleached requires perio- < dic treatment to take into account the new hair growth that occurs on the root section of the hair, i.e. the Section of the strand of hair closest to the scalp stands. This treatment known as the retouching process involves applying any bleach near the root section, In order to give the new hair growth the same color as the previously bleached parts of the hair, scjäaß that entire main has a uniform color. Although these

80981 1/1117

Treatment is designed to only regrow new hair To bleach, it is inevitable that hair that has already been bleached will also have an additional bleaching effect is subjected. When repeating such a procedure, parts of the hair receive a different one Number of multiple bleaching treatments.

In the treatment of hair according to the well-known "dyeing" with oxidizing dyes "a dye is applied to the hair, the color development of which is the effect requires an oxidizing agent which generally remains separate from the dye until the dye is on the hair is applied. Although the action of the oxidizing agent in this case is not primarily in the If there is bleaching of hair, its presence on the hair produces practically the same appearance as when it does it is simply applied for the purpose of bleaching hair. Therefore, a repeated dyeing of the hair turns out to be Oxidation dyes practically in terms of effect to the extent that the same multiple bleaching treatments, as damage to the hair occurs, with which the present Invention concerned.

One effect of multiple bleaching treatments on the hair is to increase porosity and damage of the hair, with the degree of porosity and damage

809811/1

tion is an effect of the number of bleaching treatments the section of hair has been subjected to became. As the retouching continues, the porosity of the hair changes and it becomes non-uniform, so that it becomes progressively more porous from the root section to the end section of the hair. A A similar condition occurs with multiple dyeings with oxidizing dye masses. Through this appearance the cold wave process is applied to bleached hair.

Cold waving of hair is generally effected by winding the hair on a curler and then applying a waving lotion which contains a reducing agent as an essential active ingredient, for example a dilute alkaline thioglycolic acid solution. After a specified period of time, usually 10 minutes, the hair is rinsed with water on the roller, rubbed dry and treated with an oxidative neutralizing agent, which breaks the action of the well lotion and, according to the generally valid theory, the disulfide bonds that are caused by the waving Lotion has been broken open. After about 5 minutes, the hair is rinsed, the curlers are removed and the hair is laid. The extent to which a section of the hair strand is wavy is dependent

• 809811/1117

on the amount of well lotion taken up, which in turn depends on the porosity of the particular section of hair. From this it follows with any one given concentration of Well * -Lot ion, if all other circumstances are equal, that the more porous Hair is given a stronger curl and the less porous hair is given a weaker curl.

Furthermore, hair that is not uniformly porous, for example hair that has been bleached and one or has been subjected to several touching treatments, or which has been subjected to multiple dyeings with oxidizing dye masses was subjected, not uniformly corrugated using the previous procedures will. For example, if a well lotion is used on bleached hair, i.e. hair with a greater porosity than unbleached hair is used, the end portions of the hair were found to be well curled, while the Sections of the roots of the hair are only weakly wavy. If well solutions are used, they are strong enough to wave the root sections of the bleached hair, i.e. the new hair growth overuse and severe hair damage and breakage at the end sections or the more porous ones Sections of hair.

809811/1117

It has now been found in accordance with the present invention that the difficulties listed above by a pretreatment of the non-uniform porous hair, like the previous bleaching treatments, previous dyeing treatments with oxidizing dye mass or otherwise induced with a pre-neutralizing agent can be prevented for the hair waving compound, whereupon the hair waving compound in normal strength f

is applied so that the desired uniform corrugation is obtained.

The term "pre-neutralizing agent" used here denotes a neutralizing agent that is applied to the hair ν · Γ the application of the hair waving compound and which must be distinguished from the final neutralizing substances that are used after application applied to the hair waving compound.

It is an object of the invention to provide a method of securely laying a uniform corrugation on a non-uniform porous hair, such as hair that has been treated with previous lead treatments or dyes Oscillation dye masses were subjected.

Another object of the invention is to provide a

80 9 8 VViΛ117

drive for the safe laying of a uniform wave with non-uniformly porous hair, for example a previously bleached hair or a hair dyed with an oxidizing dye, which is made using a single well solution can be run without that the degree of porosity or the non-uniformity of the porosity of the hair can play a role.

Another object of the invention is a method of securely laying a uniform corrugation on non-uniformly porous hair, as has been the case with previous bleaching and retouching treatments or oxidation dye treatments was obtained, the hair with a pre-neutralizing agent for a hair cold wave solution is pretreated before applying the hair cold wave solution.

These and other objects of the invention will become apparent from the following description.

As stated above, the method according to the invention is of particular importance in the case of the preceding Bleaching treatments or dyeing treatments using oxidative dye masses on damaged hair. All of the known hair bleaching compositions and oxidation dye-hair coloring compositions result in the above

809811/1117

resulted in excessive porosity of the hair. Typical Hair bleaches that give this condition are by Edward Sagarin in "Cosmetics, Science and Technology" (1957) pages 480 to 484. In the same way, typical oxidation dye masses, which cause this hair damage, also in Sagarin's book on pages 503 bis 512 listed.

In order to be able to compare the present process with the previous process, an experiment was carried out porous hair developed through the use of hair bleaches or oxidative dye masses. To this The purpose was two masses, hereinafter referred to as (A): hair bleaching mass or (B): oxidizing dye mass are designated. The hair, hereinafter referred to as bleached hair, sets Represents hair which has been treated with the mass (A). The hair hereinafter referred to as colored hair represents a hair which has been treated with the composition (B).

(A) Hair bleach component (a)

Oleic acid 24%

Triton X-15 (glycol ether of p-

tert-octylphenol) ,,. ,, .. 13%

Igepal CA. 630 (octylphenoxypolyethoxyethanol, average molecular weight 646) 25%

■ 809811/1117 ^r

NH ₃ (28% NH ₃ in H ₂ O) 2% Isopropanol 15% Propylene glycol 15% H ₂ O 6% Component (b)

6% aqueous H ₃ O ₃

W. Component (c) (accelerator)

Ammonium per sulfate 17%

Potassium persulfate 67%

Sodium silicate 11%

Sodium carbonate 5%

To use were 62 g (2 ounces) of ingredient (a), 124 grams (4 ounces) of component (b) and about 21 grams of component (c) mixed together and applied to the hair applied for 1 to 2 hours, unless otherwise specified.

(B) Oxidation dye composition

for coloring component (a)

As component (a) in mass (A) above with the exception that it contains 3.75% p-phenylenediamine, 0.06% 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, Contained 0.05% p-aminodiphenylamine. Instead of 6% water, 2.14% water was used.

809811/1117

Component (b)

6% aqueous H ₂ O ₃ .

It was used, 62 grams (2 ounces) of the ingredient (a) and 62 g (2 ounces) of ingredient (b) mixed together and applied to and in contact with the hair leave this for 30 to 60 minutes.

It is constant practice with common permanent wave preparations, alkaline thioglycolate permanent wave lotions of various kinds Strength depending on the degree of damage apply to wavy hair; Low strength solutions are used for couples with greater levels of damage recommended. In general, a decrease in the strength of deijWell lotions is achieved by increasing the thioglycolic acid concentration is lowered along with the alkalinity.

Examples of three typical common waving lotions are given in table I:

TABLE I. WeIl lotion % NH ₃ % Thioqlycolic acid N for normal hair 2.0 7.6 T for with oxidation
dye colored
Baar 1.0 3.8 B for bleached hair 0.5 1.9

80981 1/1117

The following experiment was conducted to test the effects of Lotions T and B described above When waving bleached hair to show: The hair exposed to different degrees of damage was waved with the waving lotions T and B for 10 minutes and neutralized with 12% sodium bromate. The different degrees of damage were experimentally achieved by applying different hair samples Number of identical bleaching treatments were subjected. The least damaged hair is called root hair referred to, while moderately damaged hair is referred to as shaft hair and severely damaged hair as terminal hair will. The samples applied consisted of normal brown hair, and the number of bleaches, to which each type of hair was subjected was as follows: Root hair - a two hour bleach Shaft hair - two two-hour bleaching

two terminal hairs - three-phase-one-hour bleaches.

The wet wave effectiveness (see Proc. Sec. TGA, Dec. 1956, Page 12) and the strength of the hair were determined. The latter is estimated in units of strength expressed in relation to the tensile module; the higher the number, the stronger the hair strength. The results obtained are summarized in Table II:

80981 1/11 17

TABLE ₁ E II

% Wet Corrugation Effectiveness Used Strength

Hair Lotion T Lotion B Lotion T Lotion B

Root hair 50 40 40 44 Shaft hair 70 55 20th 25th Terminal hair 65 70 9 13th

The non-uniformity of the wave effectiveness results from these values, which is observed with both the lotion and the bleached than was also obtained with colored hair. Furthermore, there is the higher degree of damage that the End hairs suffered with the colored hair lotion.

In contrast to previous practice, with WeIl lotions of different thicknesses for hair with different degrees of damage a is required, the invention makes it possible to use a single waving lotion or another waving compound, around any hair regardless of its degree of damage or non-uniformity of its porosity to wave. As already stated above, this is done by pretreating the hair to be wavy a preneutralizing agent for the cold corrugation compound to be used. This pre-treatment follows then the application of the cold corrugation compound and the corresponding procedure.

60981 1/11 17

The term "preneutralizing agent ^{11, as used here,} is not to be understood in its limited sense, so that it only designates an agent whose effect consists only in a change in the pH of the corrugating compounds. Rather, it is used in a broad sense and includes any material which has a tendency to inhibit the hair-waving effect of the waving compound, which is then applied. The mechanism of this inhibition can include: a) a change in the pH value towards the acidic side, b) an oxidation of the active constituent of the waving compound, c) a combination of processes a) and b), d) dilution of the well lotion and the like.

The specifically applied preneutralizing agents used in accordance with the invention need not be of any particular type. Your choice depends, of course, on the type of hair curling mass that is to be used afterwards. In general, however, the preneutralizing agent is of the oxidizing type and acts by oxidizing the active constituents of the corrugating compound to an inactive form. A variety of neutralizing agents of the oxidizing type which serve as preneutralizing agents in the context of the invention are known and can be used in accordance with the invention. Typical examples of this are pie by Edward Sagarin in "Cosmetics, Science and Technology ¹¹ , Inter-

80981 1/11

science Publishers, Inc., New York, 1957, pages 617 to 620. These include hydrogen peroxide, Alkali bromates, alkali perborates, alkali chlorites, Urea peroxides and the like, as well as combinations of.

In the preferred embodiment of the invention there is the pre-neutralizing agent1 from one of the sour Oxidation type. This acts as an oxidizing agent and also serves to reduce the pH value of the Hair curling compound, so that the effect of the latter is inhibited. Solutions of any tertiary sulfate or Bromate oxidizing agents with a pH below 7 are particularly suitable for this purpose. As examples the following are listed: ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium bromate, potassium bromate.

The amount of preneutralizer that is in the preneutralizer contained can be within a wide range depending on whether the to be corrugated Hair is bleached or colored with oxidizing fijab compounds, and of the strength of the chosen for use Well lotion vary. In most cases, however, it takes the form of an aqueous solution of a Oxidizing agent with a content between 0.5 and 5.0% active oxygen with a pH between 3.5 and 7.0. In addition, it can also contain other

80981 1/1117

parts such as wetting agents, thickeners, opacifiers, perfume oils, preservatives, stabilizers, Contain film formers, hair conditioning agents and the like.

Hair waving compositions containing a reducing agent as an essential active ingredient are most suitable for use in the present invention. Solutions of thioglycol-

^w acid or its derivatives, for example amides, esters and the like, with a pH in the range from 7.0 to 9.4 and a concentration of the reducing agent, expressed as thioglycolic acid, in a range between 0.5 and 9, 0%. These solutions as alkali contain one of the following compounds either alone or in combination with one another, e.g. ammonia, alkali metal cations, alkaline earth metal cations, primary, secondary or tertiary amines, e.g. ethylamine, diethylamine, triethylamine, primary, secondary or tertiary alkanolamines, e.g. monoethanolamine, diisoproparriamine, Triethanolamine, or cyclic amines such as morpholine.

It goes without saying that the present invention is applicable to both hair waving compounds, the simple one represent aqueous solutions of the active hair wave agent, as well as improved masses, the opacifiers, Emulsifiers, perfumes, thickeners, film formers,

80981 1/1117

Contain hair conditioning agents and the like.

In the practice of the invention, the hair that has been previously bleached and retouched or that has been dyed multiple times with oxidative dye masses, which thereby became non-uniformly porous, with the pre-neutralizing agent, preferably in the form of an aqueous solution. The treatment time can be in Vary depending on the agent used. In general, the treatment lasts 1 to 20 minutes and preferably about 10 minutes.

The hair treated in this way can then undergo a conventional hair cold wave treatment using any of these of the hair waving agents listed above. This treatment can also range from 1 to 20 minutes, usually 10 minutes; the hair is then rinsed and neutralized according to the previous procedure.

Without thin. to be constrained by such a theory, The present invention is believed to succeed as follows: Because of non-uniformity the porosity of the hair, which has been subjected to several lead processes or dyeing treatments with oxidative dye masses has been subjected, the pre-neutral

80981 1/1117

agents in the hair structure in different amounts in different sections of the hair absorbed.

In most cases the greatest absorption takes place at the end section of the hair and the least absorption at the root section of the hair. If then the Kaltwell solution is subject to any application the greatest degree of neutralization in those sections of hair that have the most pre-neutralizing agent have absorbed. At each point, however, there is more well lotion than preneutralizing agents, so that the waving of the hair can be done. The result is a more uniform overall wave without damage the more porous sections of the hair, i.e. the end sections.

The success of the method according to the invention is demonstrated by the following tests:

Hair so bleached that it conformed to the root, shaft and tail sections as discussed above, was treated with 3% aqueous ammonium persulfate during Treated 10 minutes. Then it was in the usual manner already listed for about 10 minutes using the methods listed in Table I above

80981 1/1117

Well-Lotion T described above and neutralized with an I2% aqueous solution of sodium bromate, The wet waving efficiencies and strengths were determined. The results are in the tables III and IV combined.

TABLE III

Comparison of wet wave effectiveness using the

Well lotion T Not pretreated
hair Used
hair Pre-treated
hair 50 Root hair 55 70 Shaft hair 55 65 Terminal hair 55

The values in Table III show that a uniform Waves of root, shaft and terminal hair is obtained when using the pretreatment method according to the invention is applied, while without this pretreatment, uniformity was not obtained.

TABLE IV

Relative comparison of hair strengths (tensile strengths) Lotion B used Lotion B to which

Hair pretreated

hair

not reserved half strength thinned hair not pre. hair

Tail hair 16 9 13

80981 1/1117

Table IV shows the increase in hair firmness obtained using the present invention is achieved because the higher numbers indicate greater strength. In the middle two columns is the relative strength of hair curled with Lotion B described in Table I is listed. That Hair listed in the left column was first treated with 3% aqueous ammonium persulfate for 10 minutes 'Treated according to the invention. The hair in the right column received no such pretreatment. The rise the hair strength is very clear. The last column lists hair that does not require any pretreatment obtained according to the invention and which is not as strong as the hair treated according to the invention, although the one on it applied well lotion was half as strong as that in the procedure according to the invention.

Tests carried out in practice on the head with bleached and oxidation-colored hair have confirmed this The above values. A commercial permanent wave for bleached hair was tested in half-headed tests with the Method of pretreating the hair with ammonium persulfate followed by waving with a lotion for colored hair and neutralization compared in the usual way. The following results were obtained:

809811/1117

U67853

According to the invention
Pretreatment

drive usual procedure

1) Uniform shaft - rigid shaft on the end parts

2) soft handle when traken rigid handle when dry

3) solid when wet, decay when wet

4) no breakage on combing out breakage on combing out

Similar results were obtained with the following basic systems
obtained with bleached hair:

1.) Pretreatment solution: 1.5% aqueous solution of

Ammonium persulfate

Well lotion: 6.4% aqueous solution of

Thioglycolic acid + 2% NH ₃ .
Lotion adjusted to pH 7.8 with acetic acid.

2.) Pretreatment solution: 3% aqueous solution of

Ammonium persulfate

Well lotion: 8.7% aqueous solution of

Thioglycolic acid + 2.5% NH ₃ . Lotion adjusted to pH 7.8 with acetic acid.

Similar comparative results were obtained with half-head tests, those with colored hair with the following Basic systems were executed:

1.) Pretreatment solution: 1.5% aqueous solution of

Ammonium persulfate

Well lotion: 5.0% aqueous solution of

Thioglycolic acid + 1.2% NH-.

.. ■ pH value to 9.2 with sodium

hydroxyd adjusted.

2.) Pretreatment solution: 1.5% aqueous solution of

Ammonium persulfate

Well lotion: 5.0% aqueous solution of

Thioglycolic acid + 3.3% monoethanolamine + 0.5% NHo pH value = f, l to 9.2. *

80.98 1 1/1 1 17

In the following table V three further examples of basic wave lotions are given, which in connection Can be used with the pre-neutralizing treatment on bleached hair. Every lotion represents is an aqueous solution that contains the specified quantities and components:

TABLE V

Thio

% NH ₃ % / glycolic acid% monoethanol-% triethanol- pH _ am in amine

1.) 1.4 6.0 4.0 - 9.2

2.) 0 6.0 - 10.0 8.2

3.) 0 3.0 - · ^ 5.0 7.2

Table VI below gives two further examples of basic wave lotions that can be used in conjunction with the pre-neutralizing treatment can be used on colored hair. Each well lotion is an aqueous solution that contains the specified quantities and components:

TABLE VI

% NH ₃ % thioglycol- % monoethanol-% triethanol-. acid amine amine pH

2.1 5.6 - - 7.9

0.5 6.0-10.0 9.2

Although in the foregoing the invention based on more specific

Embodiments thereof have been described , it will be understood that numerous changes and modifications can be made therein.

809811/1117

Claims (8)

Claims ^ Method for waving non-uniformly porous hair with a hair waving compound, characterized in that the hair is treated with a preneutralizing agent, the is suitable for partially inhibiting the action of the hair curling compound, pretreated and then on the pretreated Hair the hair curling compound is applied. 2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that a neutralizing agent on the Hair is then applied to the hair after applying the hair wave mass. 3. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the preneutralizing agent a Contains oxidizing agent for the active component of the hair wave mass. 4. The method according to claim 3, characterized in that an acidic oxidizing agent Oxidizing agent is used. 5. The method according to claim 1 to 4, characterized in that the hair wave mass is a reducing agent contains. 809811/11 17 6. The method according to claim 5, characterized in that the reducing agent used consists of an alkaline mass of thioglycolic acid. 7. The method according to claim 1 to 6, characterized in that a non-uniformly porous hair, that results from previous bleaching treatments or previous treatments with an oxidizing dye stain revealed, with a dilute aqueous mass of one of the acidic oxidizing agents ammonium persulfate, Potassium persulfate, sodium bromate or potassium bromate or Mixtures thereof is pretreated and then the pretreated hair the cold waving effect of an aqueous alkaline mass of thioglycolic acid is subjected. 8. The method according to claim 1 to 7, characterized in that an oxidative neutralizing agent is applied to the hair subsequent to the application of the hair waving compound, thereby enhancing the effect of the the latter is inhibited. 80981 1/1117