US2892756A

US2892756A - Method for protecting, dyeing, and waving peroxide bleach-damaged keratin

Info

Publication number: US2892756A
Application number: US539033A
Authority: US
Inventors: Flesch Peter
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1955-10-06
Filing date: 1955-10-06
Publication date: 1959-06-30
Anticipated expiration: 1976-06-30

Description

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XR. 2&392 756 United States Patent METHOD FOR PROTECTING, DYEING, AND WAV- ING PEROXIDE BLEACH-DAMAGED KERATIN Peter Flesch, Philadelphia, Pa.

No Drawing. Application October 6, 1955 Serial No. 539,033

4 Claims. (Cl. 167-871) I or bleached with oxidizing agents, particularly peroxides,

certain changes occur other than merely altered hair pigment. These changes are manifested by alterations in the load extension curves, by an increase in the brittleness and permeability of the hair shaft, by dullness and by an altered reactivity of the hair towards dyes, cold waving preparations and the like.

Commercially, hair is oxidized or bleached with 30% hydrogen peroxide which has been diluted with an oily diluent to a peroxide content of approximately and ammoniated to a pH of about 9.5. Hair so bleached has been observed to behave as follows:

(1) When subjected to warm water, nitrogenous components and bleached pigment are repeatedly extracted thereby indicating that damage to the hair takes place each time it is washed or rinsed.

(2) When treated with conventional thioglycollatecontaining cold waving preparations, such for example as those disclosed in the McDonough Patents 2,577,710 and 2,577,711, the hair often becomes brittle and breaks off causing patchy or dilfuse baldness.

(3) When treated with commercial hair dyes, the hair takes up the dyes rapidly and unevenly. When treated with a composition including a mixture of a hair dye and a thioglycollate, the hair becomes matted and brittle and the dye uptake is frequently selective.

These reactions occur particularly with the certified colors or coal tar dyes disclosed in the Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, vol. 4, pp. 2873l3 (1949) and particularly FD&C Orange No. 1, Red No. 1, Red No. 4, Violet No. 1, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 6, D&C Black No. 1, Red No. 33, Yellow No. 10 and Ext. D&C Reds Nos. 8, 10, 11, 13 and Yellow No. 1.

The present invention has for its primary object to correct these undesirable characteristics of keratin, especially human hair, which has been subjected to oxidizing agents. It is based on the discovery that correction can be obtained by treating oxidized keratin, including human hair, with acid solutions of pH 2.0 to 3.8.

Here it should be noted that while oxidized keratin is afiected by the acid treatment, unoxidized keratin is not. Also, the acid treatment gives long-lasting protection as evidenced by the fact that a single treatment will last about ten weeks from one oxidative bleaching to the next if the hair thereafter is not washed more frequently than about twice a week, which is rather uncommon.

It is known that peroxides oxidize the disulfide linkages of keratin and, among other things, sulfuric acid is produced. Thus the isoelectric point of the hair components may shift towards the acid side thereby increasing the solubility of the keratin in water. While the mechanism of the protective effect of high acidity (low pH) upon oxidized hair is not known, it is believed that it is a CC relasted to bringing the oxidized keratin nearer its isoelectric point.

Another object of the invention is to provide a cleansing agent or shampoo having a pH of 2.0 to 3.8 which protects as well as cleans oxidized keratin, especially human hair.

Yet another object of the invention is to provide a method of dyeing oxidized or bleached keratin, especially human hair, with certified, non-toxic, coal tar dyes containing thioglycollates in which the hair does not become brittle or matted and in which the dye is taken up evenly.

And yet another object of the invention is to provide a method of permanently waving bleached keratin, in-

cluding human hair, with cold waving preparations containing thioglycollates in which the hair does not become brittle.

The acidity of a bleached hair treating preparation, such as a solution, cream, or lotion, can be adjusted to a pH of 2.0 to 3.8 with the use of conventional buffers such as glycocoll-sodium chloride-hydrogen chloride salts, potassium phthalate-tartaric acid salts, and the like. These buffers are commercially available, as for example at Harleco Company of Philadelphia, Penna.

The cleansing preparations or shampoos for use on oxidized or peroxide-bleached hair comprise a detergent which will not lose its solubility and foaming action at and below a pH of 3.8 and buffer salts in sufiicient quantity and proportions to obtain a pH of 2.0 to 3.8. Several illustrative, but non-limitative examples of elfective Duponol PC is a detergent of the Du Pont Co. which is derived from technical lauryl alcohol.

Renex 30 is a. detergent of the Atlas Powder Co. which is a polyoxyethylene ether alcohol.

The process of dyeing oxidized or peroxide-bleached hair in accordance with the present invention is carried out as follows. A 3.0 percent aqueous stock solution of mixtures of several of the aforementioned certified coal tar dyes is prepared, the dyes being chosen to yield a desired overall color. An aqueous stock solution of calcium thioglycollate is prepared, preferably 3.5 percent based on the free acid. The ammonium and other salts may also be used. A solution or shampoo buffered to a pH of 2.0 to 3.8 is first applied to the bleached hair. Then a mixture of two volumes of the dye solution and one volume of the thioglycollate is applied to the acidtreated hair within one-half hour of mixture and allowed to remain on the hair for at least 30 minutes. The hair is then rinsed with water and washed with slightly acid shampoo to arrest the action of the thioglycollate.

The process of cold permanent waving of oxidized or peroxide-bleached hair in accordance with the present invention is carried out by first applying to the bleached hair a solution or shampoo buffered at a pH of 2.0 to 3.8. Thereafter the cold waving is carried out in a conventional manner and with commercial thioglycollate solutions as disclosed for example in the aforementioned Mc- Donough patents.

While preferred embodiments of the invention have been described herein, it will be understood that minor variations may be made in the hair rinses, shampoos, dyeing and permanent waving processes without departing from the spirit of the invention and the scope of the appended claims. The essential feature of this invention is the fact that the treatment of oxidized keratin, especially peroxide-bleached human hair, with a preparation having a pH of 2.0 to 3.8 arrests damage induced by oxidation and simultaneously preconditions the hair so that it can be dyed and permanently waved in a manner not heretofore attainable.

I claim:

1. A method of protecting peroxide bleach-damaged keratin, including human hair, against aqueous extraction of nitrogenous components which comprises applying to the oxidized keratin fiber an aqueous solution having a pH of 2.0 to 3.8.

2. A method of dyeing peroxide bleach-damaged keratin, including human hair, with a certified coal tar dye preparation including a thioglycollate which comprises applying to the oxidized keratin fiber an aqueous solution having a pH of 2.0 to 3.8 prior to the application of the dye preparation to the oxidized keratin.

3. A method of cold permanent waving of peroxide bleach-damaged keratin, including human hair, with a thioglycollate-containing preparation which comprises applying to the oxidized keratin fiber an aqueous solution having a pH of 2.0 to 3.8 prior to the application of the thioglycollate-containing preparation.

4 4. The method of claim 3 wherein said aqueous solution is maintained at a pH of 2.0 to 3.8 by a bufiering agent selected from the class consisting of glycocollsodium chloride-hydrogen chloride and potassium phthalate-tartaric acid.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,645,595 Lipman July 14, 1953 FOREIGN PATENTS 1448/52 Union of South Africa June 10, 1952 1,098,369 France Mar. 2, 1955 OTHER REFERENCES Hair Rinses, D. and C. Ind., vol. 69, No. 4, October 1951, p.515.

Cobb: Mod. Beauty Shop, January 1944, pp. 52-53 and 108-110, esp. 108.

Schimmel Brief, No. 229, April 1954.

Peck: D. and C. Ind., vol. 72, No. 1, January 1953, pp. 46, 47 and 129-133.

.Tannaway: Hair Treatment Prep., Perf. and Ess. Oil Rev., June 1938, pp. 220-223, esp. at p. 222, col. 2, 2nd and 3rd paragraphs.

Hilfer: D. and C. Ind., October 1949, pp. 394-5, esp. p. 395, col. 1.

Claims

3. A METHOD OF COLD PERMANENT WAVING OF PEROXIDE BLEACH-DAMAGED KERATIN, INCLUDING HUMAM HAIR, WITH A THIOGLYCOLLATE-CONTAINING PREPARATION WHICH COMPRISES APPLYING TO THE OXIDIZED KERATIN FIBER AN AQUEOUS SOLUTION HAVING A PH OF 2.0 TO 3.8 PRIOR TO THE APPLICATION OF THE THIOGLYCOLLATE-CONTAINING PREPARATION.