DE10301631A1 - Cosmetic and dermatological composition, useful e.g. for restructuring and rejuvenating skin, contains soya bean germ extract, vitamins C and E and alpha-glycosylrutin - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic and dermatological composition (A) contains soya bean germ extract (B) or components isolatable from it, in combination with vitamin C, vitamin E and/or alpha-glycosylrutin (aGR), and/or their derivatives.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological emulsions, in particular skin care cosmetic and dermatological emulsions containing soybean germ extracts or ingredients can be isolated therefrom, preferably daidzin, glycitin, Genistin, daidzein, glycitein, genistein and saponinin combination with vitamin C, E and / or α-glycosylrutin and / or their derivatives, preferably vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. Ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), as well as rutinic acid and their derivatives, α-glycosylrutin. In an advantageous embodiment The present invention relates to an application which allows the stability of W / O emulsions.

The skin is the largest organ of the human. Among its many functions (e.g. for heat control and as a sensory organ) is the barrier function, which is drying out the skin (and ultimately the entire organism), probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. causes this barrier function is through the epidermis, which acts as the outermost layer the actual protective cover across from of the environment. With about a tenth of the total thickness it is at the same time the thinnest Layer of skin.

The epidermis is a stratified one Tissue in which the outer layer, the stratum corneum, which is important for the barrier function Represents part. The skin model recognized today in the professional world by Elias (P.M. Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105) the horny layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (brick-mortar model). In this model the horny cells (corneocytes) correspond to the bricks that corresponds to complex lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces the mortar. This system essentially represents a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances, but due to its narrow and multilayer structure equally of lipophilic substances difficult to be happened.

The present invention relates to in a special embodiment cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations with reduced stickiness, Process for their preparation and the use of active ingredients to reduce the stickiness of cosmetic preparations.

Except for their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences carry the epidermal Lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on it Skin smoothness. Unlike the sebum lipids, that do not form a closed film on the skin are the epidermal lipids over the entire horny layer distributed.

The extremely complex interaction the moisture-binding substances and the lipids of the upper ones Layers of skin is for the regulation of skin moisture is very important. Therefore contain cosmetics usually, in addition to balanced lipid mixtures and water, water-binding Substances.

In addition to the chemical composition However, the physical behavior of these substances is also of Importance. Therefore the development of very well biocompatible Emulsifiers or surfactants are desirable. Products formulated in this way support the liquid-crystalline organization the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum and thus improve the Barrier properties of the horny layer. It is particularly advantageous it when their molecular components from naturally substances that exist in the epidermis.

Taking cosmetic skin care is primarily to understand that the natural function of the skin as Barrier against environmental influences (e.g. dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against loss from the body's own Substances (e.g. water, natural Fats, electrolytes) strengthened or is restored.

If this function is disrupted, it too amplified Absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or to infest Microorganisms and, as a result, toxic or allergic skin reactions come.

The aim of skin care is also to through daily Washing to compensate for the loss of fat and water in the skin. This is especially important when the natural regeneration ability is not sufficient. Moreover skin care products are intended to protect against environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, protect and delay skin aging.

Medical topical compositions usually contain one or more drugs in effective Concentration. For the sake of simplicity, it becomes a clear distinction between cosmetic and medical application and corresponding Products on the legal provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany referenced (e.g. cosmetics regulation, food and drug law).

Common cosmetic dosage forms are emulsions. This is generally understood to mean a heterogeneous system consisting of two liquids which are immiscible or only miscible with one another, which are usually referred to as phases. One is in the form of droplets (dispere or inner phase), while the other liquid forms a continuous (coherent or internal phase). More rare forms of administration are multiple emulsions, that is to say those which in the droplets of the dispersed (or discontinuous) phase in turn contain droplets of a further dispersed phase, for example W / O / W emulsions and O / W / O emulsions.

If the oil phase is finely distributed in the Water phase, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. Milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is through the water embossed, d. H. it is generally less oily on the skin rather matting and absorbs into the skin faster than a W / O emulsion.

Of course, the expert is one Variety of possibilities known, stable W / O preparations for cosmetic or dermatological Formulate application, for example in the form of creams and ointments, that are spreadable from room to skin temperature, or as lotions and milks that tend to be in this temperature range are flowable.

The stability of emulsions is u. a. of their viscosity, especially the viscosity the outer phase dependent. An emulsion becomes unstable when the finely dispersed Particles again to larger aggregates ball together and the touching droplet flow together. This process is called coalescence. The process of coalescence runs all the more slower, the more viscous the outer phase the emulsion is.

Emulsions of "liquid" (= flowable) consistency can be found in cosmetics, for example, as care, cleaning, facial or hand lotion use. They usually have a viscosity of around 2000 mPa.s up to about 10,000 mPa · s. The stability of flowable emulsions Special attention should be paid to the considerably greater mobility the particle promotes faster coalescence.

Also liquid emulsions from the stand of technology are there they too i. a. Contain thickeners - compared to higher electrolyte concentrations not stable, which manifests itself in a phase separation. However, it is often desirable certain electrolytes, such as water-soluble UV filters, to use their other physical, chemical or physiological To be able to use properties. You can in many cases To a certain extent remedy by suitable choice of the emulsifier system create, but then there are other disadvantages as well.

The disadvantages mentioned can, for example are that emulsifiers, like ultimately every chemical substance, in some cases allergic or to hypersensitivity can cause user-based reactions, although use the usual cosmetic emulsifiers i. a. is of course completely harmless.

About the metastability of emulsions guarantee to be able are usually surfactants, so emulsifiers, necessary. In itself, the use of the usual cosmetic emulsifiers completely harmless. Still can Emulsifiers, like ultimately every chemical substance, in individual cases allergic or hypersensitive cause user-based reactions. So it is known that with some particularly sensitive people due to certain light dermatoses certain emulsifiers and simultaneous exposure to sunlight triggered become.

It is possible to use emulsifier-free preparations to produce which, for example, water droplets dispersed in an oil phase, similar to one W / O emulsion. Such systems sometimes become hydrodispersions or called oleodispersions, depending on which is the disperse and which is the continuous phase.

It is for cosmetic galenics though neither necessary still possible, to do without emulsifiers altogether, especially since a certain selection of especially mild emulsifiers exist.

However, there is a lack of State of the art on a satisfactorily large variety of such emulsifiers, which then also milder the range of applications accordingly hygienically cosmetic preparations would broaden significantly.

The harmful effects of the ultraviolet Part of the solar radiation on the skin is generally known. During rays with a wavelength, which is smaller than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) from which Ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere absorbed cause rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, an erythema, a simple one Sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

As a maximum of erythema effectiveness the narrower range of 308 nm is given for sunlight.

To protect against UVB radiation numerous compounds known, which are derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, the 4-aminobenzoic acid, the cinnamic acid, the salicylic acid, benzophenone and 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

It is also important to have filter substances available for the range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, since their rays can also cause damage. It has long been erroneously assumed that the long-wave UV-A radiation with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm has only a negligible biological effect and that accordingly UV-B rays are responsible for most of the light damage to human skin. In the meantime, however, numerous studies have shown that UV-A radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin. The damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also be intensified by UV-A radiation.

So it is among other things proved that even UV-A radiation is sufficient under normal everyday conditions, to quickly damage the collagen and elastin fibers that for the The structure and firmness of the skin are essential. This leads to chronic light-induced skin changes - the skin "ages" prematurely Appearance of light-aged skin include, for example Wrinkles and fine lines as well as an irregular, furrowed Relief. Can also the areas affected by light-induced aging of the skin an irregular pigmentation exhibit. Even the formation of brown spots, keratoses and even Carcinoma or malignant melanoma is possible. One through everyday UV exposure prematurely aged skin is also characterized by less activity of Langerhans cells and a mild, chronic inflammation.

About 90% of those who reach Earth ultraviolet radiation consists of UV-A rays. While the UV-B radiation in dependence greatly varied by numerous factors (e.g. time of year and time of day or latitude), the UV-A radiation remains independent of year and day time or geographic factors day by day relative constant. At the same time, the majority of UV-A radiation penetrates into the living epidermis while about 70% of the UV-B rays are retained by the horny layer become.

Preventive protection against UV-A rays, for example by applying light protection filter substances in Form of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation on the Skin, is therefore of fundamental importance Importance.

In general, the light absorption behavior of light protection filter substances very well known and documented, especially in most industrialized countries Positive lists for the use of such substances exist, which are quite strict Standards to the Create documentation. For the dosage of the substances in the finished formulations can Extinction values at best offer guidance, because by Interactions with ingredients of the skin or the skin surface itself can Uncertainties arise. Furthermore, it is usually difficult to estimate in advance how even and the layer thickness of the filter substance in and on the horny layer the skin is distributed.

For testing the UV-A protection performance is usually uses the IPD method (IPD - immediate pigment darkening). Here - similar to the determination of the sun protection factor - a value becomes determined, which indicates how much longer the one with the light stabilizer protected Skin can be irradiated with UV-A radiation until the same pigmentation occurs like the unprotected Skin.

Another, established throughout Europe Assessment methods is the Australian standard AS / NZS 2604: 1997. The absorption of the preparation measured in the UV-A range. To meet the standard, the preparation must at least 90% of UV-A radiation in the range 320-360 absorb nm.

The usage concentration known Light protection filter substances, especially in the UV-A range A high filter effect is often in combination with other than solid existing substances limited. It therefore prepares certain wording Difficulties, higher To achieve sun protection factors or UV-A protection performance.

Since light protection filter substances in are usually expensive and there are some light protection filter substances also difficult in higher Concentrations in cosmetic or dermatological preparations are to be incorporated, it was an object of the invention to simple and inexpensive way to get preparations that are unusually low Concentrations of conventional UV-A light protection filter substances are nevertheless an acceptable or even achieve high UV-A protection.

The UV radiation can also cause photochemical reactions, then taking the photochemical reaction products into the skin metabolism intervention. These are predominantly photochemical Reaction products around radical compounds, for example Hydroxyl radicals. Also undefined radical photo products, which can arise in the skin itself because of their high reactivity display uncontrolled follow-up reactions. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can occur with UV radiation, as well as short-lived epoxies and many Other. Singlet oxygen, for example, stands out from that Triplet oxygen normally present (radical ground state) through increased reactivity out. However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

To prevent these reactions, can the cosmetic or dermatological formulations additionally antioxidants and / or radical scavengers be incorporated.

The compounds that act as sunscreens for cosmetic and dermatological light protection formulations are used, are usually characterized by good sun protection. she have the disadvantage, however, that it it is sometimes difficult to find such formulations satisfactorily incorporate.

The sun protection factor (SPF, often also adapted to English usage, called SPF) indicates um how much longer the skin protected with the sunscreen is irradiated until the same erythema reaction occurs as with unprotected skin (So ten times as long as unprotected Skin at SPF = 10).

In any case, the consumer expects on the one hand - not most recently because of the public discussion about the So-called "ozone hole" on the one hand reliable information of the manufacturer on the sun protection factor, on the other hand there is a tendency of the consumer to higher and high sun protection factors.

Since light protection filter substances in are usually expensive, and since some light protection filter substances also difficult in higher Concentrations in cosmetic or dermatological preparations are to be incorporated, it was another object of the invention simple and inexpensive way to obtain preparations which even with unusual low concentrations of light protection filter substances nevertheless achieve acceptable or even high SPF values.

It was also an object of the present Invention, cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen preparations to conceive, which are characterized by increased care effect.

It was, however, surprising and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing
Soybean germ extracts or ingredients can be isolated therefrom, preferably daidzin, glycitin, genistin, daidzein, glycitein, genistein and saponins in combination with vitamin C and / or E and / or α-glycosylrutin and / or their derivatives, preferably vitamin C and
Derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, As-corbyl-ace-tat), Tocophe-ro-le and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E-ace-tat), as well as rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin
remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

It was amazing that preparations unexpectedly high sun protection factors in the sense of the present invention and UV-A protection performance would.

• – besser als feuchtigkeitsspendende Zubereitungen wirken,
• – besser die Hautglättung fördern,
• – sich durch bessere Pflegewirkung auszeichnen,
• – höhere Stabilität gegenüber der Kristallisation der eingesetzten Rohstoffe aufweisen
• – sich durch bessere Bioverträglichkeit auszeichnen würden
• – sich durch ein besseres Hautgefühl und durch höhere kosmetische Eleganz auszeichnen würden
• – sich über eine breite kosmetische Variabilität auszeichnen würden und über breite Konsistenz- und Viskositätsbereiche von 400 mPas bis > 20.000 mPas formulieren lassen würden

als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik.Furthermore, it was not foreseeable for the person skilled in the art that the preparations according to the invention

• - work better than moisturizing preparations,
• - better promote smoothing of the skin,
• - are characterized by better care effects,
• - Have higher stability towards the crystallization of the raw materials used
• - would be characterized by better biocompatibility
• - would be characterized by a better feeling on the skin and a higher cosmetic elegance
• - would be characterized by a wide cosmetic variability and would be formulated over a wide range of consistency and viscosity from 400 mPas to> 20,000 mPas

than the preparations of the prior art.

The preparations according to the invention are own very good cosmetic properties, especially what the stickiness concerns, and have a very good skin tolerance and skin care performance.

The preparations according to the invention are preferably in the form of a W / O emulsion.

Preparations according to the invention preferably contain as ingredients from soybean germ extracts daidzin, glycitin, Genistin, daidzein, glycitein, genistein and saponins.

Preparations according to the invention preferably contain as derivatives of vitamin C and / or E ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, As-corbyl-ace-tat, vitamin E-ace-tat.

Preparations according to the invention particularly preferably comprise 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously 0.5 to 10% by weight, very particularly preferably 1 to 5% by weight of soybean seed extracts or ingredients isolatable from it.

Preparations according to the invention particularly preferably comprise 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously 0.5 to 10% by weight, very particularly preferably 1 to 5% by weight of vitamin C and / or E and / or 0.001 to 4 wt .-%, advantageously 0.005 to 2 wt .-%, very particularly preferred 0.01 to 1% by weight of α-glycosyl rutin and / or their derivatives.

The invention also includes the use of preparations according to the invention for restructuring and / or rejuvenating the skin, for stimulating collagen synthesis, in particular for improving the three-dimensional structure of the dermis-epidermis junction as well as for facilitating scarring with reduced scarring in the case of injuries to the epidermis and / or for inspiration of the body and the senses of man.

Use is also preferred of preparations according to the invention for the prophylaxis and / or treatment of inflammatory skin conditions and / or to protect the skin of sensitive, dry skin (such as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, Psoriasis, vitiligo, wound healing disorders, itching, more sensitive or irritated skin, light-related skin damage and UV-induced immunosuppression, changes the desquamation, changes the normal fibroblast and Keratinocyte proliferation, changes normal fibroblast and keratinocyte differentiation deficit sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or loss-making sensitive or hypoactive conditions of skin appendages and to reduce skin thickness).

Use is also preferred of preparations according to the invention for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful Effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin. (such as degenerative Skin symptoms (such as age spots, wrinkles, telangiectasias, Flabby skin, loss of elasticity, as well as loss of the epidermal and dermal cell layers, the components of the connective tissue, the rete cones and capillaries), so-called skin luster and fatigue (sagging and / or skin fatigue), increased activation proteolytic enzymes in the skin such as B. metalloproteinases, disorders normal collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin and glycosaminoglycan homeostasis and normal skin regeneration, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte proliferation, changes in normal fibroblast and keratinocyte differentiation, deficiency symptoms of intracellular DNA synthesis (especially for loss-making or hypoactive skin conditions), environmental (from smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals and the like) caused negative changes the skin and / or the appendages of the skin).

Use is also preferred of preparations according to the invention for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of pigmentation disorders, to increase ceramide biosynthesis (such as changes in Ceramide, lipid and energy metabolism of healthy skin) Strengthening the skin's barrier function (such as horny barrier disorders, changes normal lipid peroxidations, changes in transepidermal Water loss and the normal moisture content of the skin), for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of disorders of normal skin pH and the osmolytic balance, for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of deviations from normal cell-cell communication in the skin (e.g. intercellular Communications about Mediators and / or about mechanical / physiological connections).

Use is also preferred of preparations according to the invention for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of functional disorders of the Skin appendages (e.g.

Hair loss, improved hair growth, seborrheic phenomena, oily skin, oily hair, comedones, but also dandruff).

Soybean Extracts That Under other daidzin, glycitin, genistin, daidzein, glycitein, genistein as well Saponins included are commercially available from, for example of the company L.M Cosmetics, Thiais, France under the name Isoflavones 150 (hereinafter also referred to as Isoflavone 150). This mixture contains for example 39.01 ppm daidzin, 1.53 ppm malonyl daidzin, 20.56 ppm acetyldaidzin, 22.47 ppm glycitin, 1.74 ppm malonylglycitin, 12.69 ppm acetylglycitin, genistin, 1.43 ppm daidzein, 9.82 ppm glycitein, 9.82 ppm genistin, 0.1 ppm malonylgenistin, 5.7 ppm acetylgenistin, 0.33 ppm genistein.

• – Wasser oder wäßrige Lösungen
• – wäßrige ethanolische Lösungen
• – natürliche Öle und/oder chemisch modifizierte natürliche Öle und/oder synthetische Öle;
• – Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• – Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Octoxyglycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.

The following can be used as basic components of the preparations according to the invention:

• - water or aqueous solutions
• - aqueous ethanolic solutions
• - natural oils and / or chemically modified natural oils and / or synthetic oils;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols with a low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids with a low C number or with fatty acids;
• - Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, octoxyglycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analog Products.

In particular, mixtures of the aforementioned solvents used.

As part of the present disclosure is used as a generic term for Fats, oils, Waxes and the like sometimes use the term "lipids" such as that Experts are quite familiar is. The terms “oil phase” and “lipid phase” are also used synonymously.

Oils and fats differ among other things in their polarity, which is difficult to define. It has already been proposed to take the interfacial tension against water as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. The polarity of the oil phase in question is greater, the lower the interfacial tension between this oil phase and water. According to the invention the interfacial tension is considered a possible measure of the polarity of a given oil component.

The interfacial tension is that Force on an imaginary one located in the interface between two phases Line of length of one meter. The physical unit for this Interfacial tension is calculated classically according to the relationship force / length and becomes ordinary reproduced in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters). she has positive sign if it tries to reduce the size of the interface. In the opposite case, it has a negative sign. As polar in For the purposes of the present invention, lipids are considered, the Interfacial tension against water is less than 30 mN / m.

Polar oils, for example, are from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, in particular the triglycerol ester is more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example advantageously chosen are from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as e.g. Olive oil, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like more.

Other polar oil components can be selected from the group of the esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously chosen are selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, Isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, Oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural Mixtures of such esters, e.g. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase of the W / O emulsions according to the invention contains or consists entirely of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate.

durch Oxidation eines Alkohols zu einem Aldehyd, durch Aldol-Kondensation des Aldehyds, Abspaltung von Wasser aus dem Aldol- und Hydrierung des Allylaldehyds. Guerbetalkohole sind selbst bei niederen Temperaturen flüssig und bewirken praktisch keine Hautreizungen. Vorteilhaft können sie als fettende, überfettende und auch rückfettend wirkende Bestandteile in Haut- und Haarpflegemitteln eingesetzt werden.Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who described their production for the first time. They arise from the reaction equation

by oxidation of an alcohol to an aldehyde, by aldol condensation of the aldehyde, elimination of water from the aldol and hydrogenation of the allyl aldehyde. Guerbet alcohols are liquid even at low temperatures and practically cause no skin irritation. They can advantageously be used as greasing, over-greasing and also moisturizing components in skin and hair care products.

aus. Dabei bedeuten R₁ und R₂ in der Regel unverzweigte Alkylreste.The use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is known per se. Such species are usually characterized by their structure

out. R ₁ and R _{2 are} generally unbranched alkyl radicals.

According to the invention, the Guerbet alcohol or alcohols are advantageously selected from the group in which
R ₁ = propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and
R ₂ = hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl.

und ist beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Isofol^® 12 von der Gesellschaft Condea Chemie GmbH erhältlich – und das 2-Hexyldecanol – es hat die chemische Struktur

und ist beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Isofol^® 16 von der Gesellschaft Condea Chemie GmbH erhältlich.Guerbet alcohols preferred according to the invention are 2-butyloctanol - it has the chemical structure

and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol ^® 12 from Condea Chemie GmbH - and the 2-hexyldecanol - it has the chemical structure

and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol ^® 16 from Condea Chemie GmbH.

Mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention are advantageous according to the invention to use. Mixtures of 2-butyl octanol and 2-hexyl decanol are for example under the trade name Isofol® 14 from Company Condea Chemie GmbH available.

The total amount of Guerbet alcohols in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously chosen from the range up to 25.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-15.0% by weight on the total weight of the preparations.

Any mix of such oil and wax components are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example Cetyl palmitate, to be used as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

Nonpolar oils are, for example, those which chosen are from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular petroleum jelly (petrolatum), paraffin oil, squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Under Polydecenes are the preferred substances for polyolefins. The Table 1 below leads Lipids on as single substances or as a mixture with each other advantageous according to the invention are. The relevant interfacial tensions against water are given in the last column. However, it is also advantageous, mixtures of higher and low polar and the like to use.

It may also be advantageous to select the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention partially or completely from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones, which are also referred to as “silicone oils” in the context of the present disclosure. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are usually characterized by structural elements, as follows:

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R₁–R₄ dargestellt sind (will sagen, daß die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). m kann dabei Werte von 2–200.000 annehmen.Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxy units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). m can assume values of 2–200,000.

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R₁–R₄ dargestellt sind (will sagen, daß die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). n kann dabei Werte von 3/2 bis 20 annehmen. Gebrochene Werte für n berücksichtigen, daß ungeradzahlige Anzahlen von Siloxylgruppen im Cyclus vorhanden sein können.Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). n can take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Phenyltrimethicone is advantageous as silicone oil selected. Other silicone oils, for example dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), Cetyl dimethicone, behen oxide dimethicone are advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention.

Mixtures are also advantageous from cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, and those from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

But it is also advantageous to be more similar to silicone oils To choose constitution such as the compounds referred to above, whose derivatized organic side chains, for example polyethoxylated and / or are polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers such as the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl 4 isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ether, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can can be chosen advantageously, for example from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like more if the conditions stipulated in the main claim are met become.

To be used advantageously according to the invention Fat and / or wax components can be selected from the group of vegetable Waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes to get voted. Are cheap according to the invention for example candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, Cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, Ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, Shellac wax, Walrat, Lanolin (wool wax), Bürzelfett, Ceresin, Ozokerit (Earth wax), paraffin waxes and micro waxes, provided that the main claim required conditions are met.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as those under the trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C _16-36 fatty acid _triglyceride ) and Syncrowax AW 1C (C _18-36 fatty acid) available from CRODA GmbH as well as montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (e.g. dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C _30-50 alkyl beeswax), polyal kylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats, such as. B. hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides), triglycerides such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C _20-40 alkyl stearate, C20-40 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate. Also of particular advantage are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties to the fat and / or wax components mentioned, such as stearoxytrimethylsilane, provided that the conditions specified in the main claim are met.

According to the invention, the fat and / or wax components both individually and in a mixture.

Any mix of such oil and wax components are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The oil phase is advantageously selected the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Caprylic capric triglyceride, Dicaprylyl ether provided the conditions required in the main claim be respected.

Mixtures are particularly advantageous from octyldodecanol, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, Dicaprylyl carbonate, cocoglycerides, or mixtures of C12-15 alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C12-15-alkylbenzoate and Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and mixtures of C12-15 alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl and isotridecyl isononanoate if those required in the main claim Conditions are met.

Of the hydrocarbons are Paraffin oil, Cycloparaffin, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. provided the conditions required in the main claim are met.

W / O emulsions according to the invention can be advantageous with the help of the usual W / O emulsifiers, if desired with the help of O / W emulsifiers or other co-emulsifiers getting produced.

If desired, W / O emulsions according to the present invention further comprise one or more emulsifiers, if desired advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which generally act as W / O emulsifiers:
Lecithin, lanolin, microcrystalline wax (Cera microcristallina) in a mixture with paraffin oil (Paraffinum liquidum), ozokerite, hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, wool wax acid mixtures, wool wax alcohol mixtures, pentaerythrithyl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-di-iso-stearic acid (stearic acid), and iso-stearic acid , Sodium dihydroxycetyl phosphate in a mixture with isopropylhydroxycetyl ether, methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose dioleate in a mixture with hydroxystearate and beeswax, mineral oil in a mixture with petrolatum and ozokerite and glyceryl oleate and lanolin alcohol, petrolatum in a mixture with ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, 3-oleaginate oil and glyceryl oleate and polyglyceryl ester and hydrogenated castor oil, ozokerite and hydrogenated castor oil, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-4-isostearate in a mixture with cetyldimethicone copolyol and hexyl laurate, laurylmethicone copolyol, cetyldimethicone copolyol, acrylate / C _10-30 -alkyl glyceryl-polystyrene, 101-polystyrene-polystyrene-101, at, polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate, diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3-düsostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-4-dipolyhydroxy stearate.

W / O emulsions according to the present invention optionally contain one or more coemulsifiers, particularly advantageously selected from the group of the following substances, which generally act as O / W emulsifiers:
Glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-6 in a mixture with stearyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-40 castor oil and sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, triceteareth-4 phosphate, sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, 4-phosphate, lecithin-trilaurethate-trilaurethate-trilaurethate Stearic acid, propylene glycol stearate SE, PEG-25 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-6 caprylic acid / capric acid glycerides, glyceryl oleate in a mixture with propylene glycol, ceteth-2, ceteth-20, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with P Stearate, Laureth-4, Ceteareth-3, isostearylglyceryl ether, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, Laureth-23, steareth-2, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40-stearate, glycol distearate, PEG-22-Dod Glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, ceteareth-20, methyl glucose sesquistearate, steareth-10, PEG-20 stearate, steareth-2 in a mixture with PEG-8 distearate, steareth-21, steareth-20, isosteareth- 20, PE G-45 / dodecylglycol copolymer, methoxy-PEG-22 / dodecylglycol copolymer, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-8 beeswax, polyglyceryl-2-laurate, isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, stearamidopropylphosphate dimat Glyceryl stearate SE, ceteth-20, triethyl citrate, PEG-20-methylglucose sesquistearate, ceteareth-12, glyceryl stearate citrate, cetyl phosphate, triceteareth-4-phosphate, trilaureth-4-phosphate, polyglycerylmethyl glucose distearyl phosphate, poly 10 isostyl phosphate, potassium 10-isostyl phosphate, potassium 10-isostyl phosphate, potassium cisate-10 -10, oleth-20, isoceteth-20, glyceryl stearate in a mixture with ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, cetylstearyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate, cetylstearyl alcohol in a mixture with PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG -100 stearate.

bei welcher X und Y unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe H sowie der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen, Acylgruppen und Alkoxygruppen mit 1-24 Kohlenstoffatomen, p eine Zahl von 0 – 200 darstellt, q eine Zahl von 1 – 40 darstellt, und r eine Zahl von 1 – 100 darstellt.It can also be advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, especially if the oil phase of the preparations consists at least partially of silicone oils to use silicone emulsifiers. The silicone emulsifiers can advantageously be selected from the group of surface-active substances from the group of alkyl methicon copolyols and / or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, in particular from the group of compounds which are characterized by the following chemical structure:

in which X and Y are selected independently of one another from the group H and the branched and unbranched alkyl groups, acyl groups and alkoxy groups with 1-24 carbon atoms, p represents a number from 0 to 200, q represents a number from 1 to 40, and r represents a number Represents number from 1 - 100.

An example of silicone emulsifiers to be used particularly advantageously for the purposes of the present invention are dimethicone copolyols, which are available from Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade names ABIL ^® B 8842, ABIL ^® B 8843, ABIL ^® B 8847, ABIL ^® B 8851, ABIL ^® B 8852, ABIL ^® B 8863, ABIL ^® B 8873 and ABIL ^® B 88183 are sold.

Another example of particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use surfactants is cetyl dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL ^® EM 90th

Another example of particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use surfactants is the cyclomethicone dimethicone copolyol, which is sold by the company Th.Goldschmidt AG under the trade name ABIL ^® EM 97th

Furthermore, it has proven to be particularly advantageous, the emulsifier lauryl which under the tradename Dow Corning ^® 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning Ltd. is available.

The total amount of advantageous according to the invention silicone emulsifiers used in the cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological preparations is advantageous from the field from 0.1-10.0 % By weight, preferably 0.5-5.0 % By weight selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of present invention, e.g. in the form of a skin protection cream, one Skin lotion, a cosmetic milk, for example in the form of a Sunscreen cream or sunscreen milk are beneficial and contain e.g. Fats, oils, Waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are customary for one such type of formulation can be used.

Just like emulsions of liquid and firm consistency as cosmetic cleaning lotions or cleaning creams Can find use also the preparations according to the invention sprayable cleaning preparations ("Cleaning sprays") represent which for example to remove make-up and / or make-up or as a mild washing lotion - if necessary also for blemished skin - used become. Such cleaning preparations can also advantageously be used as so-called "rinse-off preparations" are used, which be rinsed off the skin after use.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that sophisticated cosmetic compositions mostly not without the usual Auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. These include, for example, consistency givers, fillers, Perfume, dyes, emulsifiers, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or proteins, light stabilizers, stabilizers, insect repellents, Alcohol, self-tanning substances, Water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic effective substances etc.

Mutatis mutandis apply accordingly Requirements for the formulation of medical preparations.

Medical topical compositions in the sense of the present invention generally contain one or several drugs in effective concentration. The simplicity for the sake of a clean distinction between cosmetic and medical application and corresponding products to the legal Regulations of the Federal Republic of Germany referenced (e.g. cosmetics regulation, Food and Drugs Act).

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions within the meaning of the present invention, depending on their structure, can be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutritional cream, day or night cream, etc. It is possibly possible and advantageous to use the compositions according to the invention as a basis for pharmaceuticals formulated lations to use.

It is also beneficial from the properties of the invention in the form of decorative cosmetics (make-up formulations) close.

It is also beneficial in the sense of the present invention, cosmetic and dermatological preparations to create whose main The purpose of protection from sunlight is not, but it still does Contain UV protection substances. So z. B. in day creams or Makeup products usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated. Also provide UV protection substances, as well as antioxidants and, if desired, preservatives, an effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Cheap are also cosmetic and dermatological preparations that in in the form of a sunscreen.

Accordingly, the preparations contain in the sense of the present invention preferably at least one UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance. The formulations can, although not necessary, possibly also one or more organic ones and / or contain inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which can be in the water and / or oil phase.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds that are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, especially oxides of titanium (TiO2), zinc (ZnO), iron (e.g. Fe2O3), zirconium (ZrO2), silicon (SiO2), manganese (e.g. MnO), Aluminum (Al2O3), Cers (e.g. Ce2O3), mixed oxides of the corresponding Metals and mixtures of such oxides, as well as the sulfate of the barium (BaSO4).

The titanium dioxide pigments can both in the crystal modification rutile as well as anatase and can be in For the purposes of the present invention advantageously be superficial ("Coated"), for example a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is formed will or should be preserved. This surface treatment can consist of that the Pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer be provided. The different surface coating can be in According to the present invention also contain water.

Described coated and uncoated Titanium dioxides can in the sense of the present invention also in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions come into use. These predispersions can advantageously be used as dispersants and / or solubilizing agents may be added.

The titanium dioxides according to the invention stand out by a primary particle size between 10 nm to 150 nm.

In the sense of the present invention Particularly preferred titanium dioxides are the MT-100 Z and MT-100 TV from Tayca Corporation, Eusolex T-2000 and Eusolex TS from Merck and the titanium dioxide T 805 from Degussa.

For the purposes of the present invention, zinc oxides can also be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are distinguished by a primary particle size of <300 nm and are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Particularly preferred zinc oxides in The Z-Cote HP1 from BASF and the Zinc oxide NDM from Haarmann & Reimer.

The total amount of one or more inorganic pigments in the finished cosmetic preparation is advantageously selected from the range 0.1% by weight to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5 wt% to 18 wt%.

gekennzeichnet ist und unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb^® M bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI : Bisoctyltriazole], which is characterized by the chemical structural formula

and is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), marketed by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex ^® 9020.

und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz

mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazylate, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist.Other advantageous UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid

and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt

with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP.

Also advantageous are the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt) , which is also called benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:

worin
R1 und R2 unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C1-C20-Alkyl, C3-C10-Cycloalkyl oder C3-C10-Cycloalkenyl bedeuten, wobei die Substituenten R1 und R2 gemeinsam mit dem Stickstoffatom, an das sie gebunden sind, einen 5- oder 6-Ring bilden können und R3 einen C1-C20-Alkyl Rest bedeutet.Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are hydroxybenzophenones, which are characterized by the following structural formula:

wherein
R1 and R2 independently of one another are hydrogen, C1-C20-alkyl, C3-C10-cycloalkyl or C3-C10-cycloalkenyl, where the substituents R1 and R2 together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached form a 5- or 6-ring can form and R3 is a C1-C20-alkyl radical.

und unter dem Handelsnamen Uvinul A Plus bei der Fa. BASF erhältlich ist.A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is distinguished by the following structure:

and is available under the trade name Uvinul A Plus from BASF.

Advantageous UV filter substances In the sense of the present invention, so-called broadband filters are also i.e. Filter substances that contain both UV-A and UV-B radiation absorb.

wobei R1, R2 und R3 unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen bzw. ein einzelnes Wasserstoffatom darstellen. Insbesondere bevorzugt sind das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Aniso Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives with the following structure:

where R1, R2 and R3 are selected independently of one another from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or represent a single hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred are 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Particularly advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention, which is characterized by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain several UV-A and / or broadband filters, especially dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], benzotriazole derivatives [for example the 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol)], Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine . individually or in any combination with each other.

aufweisen, sind vorteilhafte UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, beispielsweise die in der Europäischen Offenlegungsschrift EP 570 838 A1 beschriebenen s-Triazinderivate, deren chemische Struktur durch die generische Formel

wiedergegeben wird, wobei
R einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C1-C18-Alkylrest, einen C5-C12-Cycloalkylrest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C1-C4-Alkylgruppen, darstellt,
X ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine NH-Gruppe darstellt,
R1 einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C1-C18-Alkylrest, einen C5-C12-Cycloalkylrest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C1-C4-Alkylgruppen, oder ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Alkalimetallatom, eine Ammoniumgruppe oder eine Gruppe der Formel

bedeutet, in welcher
A einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C1-C18-Alkylrest, einen C5-C12-Cycloalkyl- oder Arylrest darstellt, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C1-C4-Alkylgruppen,
R3 ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe darstellt,
n eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 darstellt,
R2 einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C1-C18-Alkylrest, einen C5-C12-Cycloalkylrest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C1-C4- Alkylgruppen, darstellt, wenn X die NH-Gruppe darstellt, und
einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C1-C18-Alkylrest, einen C5-C12-Cycloalkylrest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C1-C4- Alkylgruppen, oder ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Alkalimetallatom, eine Ammoniumgruppe oder eine Gruppe der Formel

bedeutet, in welcher
A einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C1-C18-Alkylrest, einen C5-C12-Cycloalkyl- oder Arylrest darstellt, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C1-C4-Alkylgruppen,
R3 ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe darstellt,
n eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 darstellt,
wenn X ein Sauerstoffatom darstellt.Also other UV filter substances, which the structural motif

have, are advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention, for example those in the European patent application EP 570 838 A1 described s-triazine derivatives, the chemical structure of which by the generic formula

is reproduced, whereby
R represents a branched or unbranched C1-C18-alkyl radical, a C5-C12-cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C1-C4-alkyl groups,
X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,
R1 is a branched or unbranched C1-C18-alkyl radical, a C5-C12-cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C1-C4-alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula

means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C1-C18-alkyl radical, a C5-C12-cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C1-C4-alkyl groups,
R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
R2 represents a branched or unbranched C1-C18-alkyl radical, a C5-C12-cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C1-C4-alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and
a branched or unbranched C1-C18-alkyl radical, a C5-C12-cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C1-C4-alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula

means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C1-C18-alkyl radical, a C5-C12-cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C1-C4-alkyl groups,
R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
when X represents an oxygen atom.

wiedergegeben wird, welches im Folgenden auch als Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Dioctylbutamidotriazone) bezeichnet wird und unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist.A particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula

is reproduced, which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.

A symmetrically substituted s-triazine which is 4,4 ', 4''(1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltrümino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2 -ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: octyl triazone), which is from from BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL ^® T 150.

wiedergegeben wird, wobei R1 , R2 und A1 verschiedenste organische Reste repräsentieren.European laid-open specification 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are preferably to be used and whose chemical structure is represented by the generic formula

is reproduced, wherein R1, R2 and A1 represent a wide variety of organic radicals.

Advantageous in the sense of the present The invention also relates to 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine Sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5 triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine . the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1 , 3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (1-methyl-pyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxysilylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[ 4- (2 '' - methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and the 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2 '' - methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.

gekennzeichnet ist und unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb^® M bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.An advantageous broadband filter in the sense of the present invention is 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), which is characterized by the chemical structural formula

and is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

gekennzeichnet ist.Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula

is marked.

The UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone and UV filters bound to polymers.

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:
Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate), 4-isopropyl benzyl salicylate and esters of preferably z 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2, ( 2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane - copolymer (INCI: dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate) which is, for example, under the trade name Parsol ^® SLX available from Hoffmann La Roche.

A further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ^® N 539 and is distinguished by the following structure:

It can also be of considerable benefit be polymer-bound or polymeric UV filter substances in preparations according to the present To use the invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690 to be discribed.

The list of UV filters mentioned, which can be used within the meaning of the present invention Of course not be limiting.

The preparations according to the invention advantageously contain the substances that UV radiation absorb in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total amount from Z. B. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations to make cosmetic preparations available place the hair or skin in front of the entire area of the Protect ultraviolet radiation. You can also as sunscreen for Serve hair or skin.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain inorganic pigments based on metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular the oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (e.g. Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals and mixtures of such oxides. These pigments are X-ray amorphous or non-X-ray amorphous. Pigments based on TiO _{2 are} particularly preferred.

X-ray Amorphous Oxide pigments are metal oxides or semimetal oxides, which are used in X-ray diffraction experiments no or no recognizable crystal structure. Such pigments are often obtainable by flame reaction, for example in that a Metal or semimetal halide with hydrogen and air (or pure oxygen) is converted into a flame.

In cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical formulations are used as X-ray amorphous oxide pigments Thickening and thixotropic agents, flow aids, for emulsion and dispersion stabilization and as a carrier (for example to increase volume of finely divided powders or powders).

Known and often used in cosmetic or dermatological galenical X-ray amorphous oxide pigments are the silicon oxides of the type Aerosil ^® (CAS No. 7631-86-9. Aerosile ^® , available from DEGUSSA, are characterized by a small particle size (e.g. between 5 and 40 nm), the particles being spherical particles of very uniform dimensions. Macroscopically, Aerosile® are recognizable as loose, white powders. For the purposes of the present invention, X-ray amorphous silicon dioxide pigments are particularly advantageous, and among these especially those of the Aerosil ^® type are preferred.

Advantageous Aerosil ^® types are for example Aerosil ^® OX50, Aerosil ^® 130, Aerosil ^® 150, Aerosil ^® 200, Aerosil ^® 300, Aerosil ^® 380, Aerosil ^® MOX 80, Aerosil ^® MOX 170, Aerosil ^® COK 84, Aerosil ^® R 202 , Aerosil ^® R 805, Aerosil ^® R 812, Aerosil ^® R 972, Aerosil ^® R 974, Aerosil ^® R976.

According to the invention contain cosmetic or dermatological light protection preparations 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, advantageous 0.5 to 10% by weight, very particularly preferably 1 to 5% by weight of X-ray amorphous Oxide pigments.

The non-X-ray amorphous inorganic Pigments are advantageous according to the invention in a hydrophobic form, i.e. that it is water-repellent on the surface are treated. This surface treatment can consist in the fact that Pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophobic layer be provided.

One such method is, for example, that the hydrophobic surface layer after a reaction nTiO ₂ + m (RO) ₃ Si-R '→ nTiO ₂ (surface) is produced. n and m are stoichiometric parameters to be used at will, R and R 'are the desired organic radicals. For example, in analogy to DE-OS 33 14 742 illustrated hydrophobized pigments are advantageous.

Organic surface coatings in the sense of the present invention can consist of vegetable or animal aluminum stearate, vegetable or animal stearic acid, lauric acid, dimethylpolysiloxane (also: dimethicone), methylpolysiloxane (methicone), simethicone (a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane with an average chain length of 200 to 350 dimethylsiloxane units and silica gel) or alginic acid. These organic surface coatings can occur alone, in combination and / or in combination with inorganic coating materials.

Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are available under the following trade names from the listed companies:

Suitable titanium dioxide particles and predispersions of titanium dioxide particles are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

Advantageous TiO2 pigments are, for example under the trade name T 805, advantageous TiO2 / Fe2O3 mixed oxides available from Degussa under the trade name T 817.

The total amount of inorganic Pigments, especially hydrophobic inorganic micropigments in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously in the range of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 0.1-10.0, in particular 0.5-6.0 % By weight selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The cosmetic and dermatological invention Preparations can Contain cosmetic active ingredients, auxiliaries and / or additives, as they are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Antioxidant Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances for preventing foaming, Dyes, pigments, the coloring Have an effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, Fats, oils, waxes or other usual Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Approved in food technology Preservatives listed below with their E number, are advantageous according to the invention to use.

Furthermore, according to the invention in the Cosmetics in use Preservatives or preservative additives dibromodicyanobutane (2-bromo-2-bromomethylglutarodinitrile), 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, 2-bromo-2-nitro-propane-1,3-diol, Imidazolidinyl urea, 5-chloro-2-methyl-4-isothiazolin-3-one, 2-chloroacetamide, benzalkonium chloride, benzyl alcohol are suitable. Formaldehyde donors.

Phenylhydroxyalkyl ethers, in particular the compound known under the name phenoxyethanol due to their bactericidal and fungicidal effects on a number of microorganisms as a preservative.

Other germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable for being incorporated into the preparations according to the invention. Examples of advantageous substances are 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (irgasan), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, quaternary ammonium compounds , Clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol) as well as those in the patent publications DE-37 40 186 . DE-39 38 140 . DE-42 04 321 . DE-42 29 707 . DE-43 09 372 . DE-44 11 664 . DE-195 41 967 . DE-195 43 695 . DE-195 43 696 . DE-195 47 160 . DE-196 02 108 . DE-196 02 110 . DE-196 02 111 . DE-196 31 003 . DE-196 31 004 and DE-196 34 019 and the patent specifications DE-42 29 737 . DE-42 37 081 . DE-43 24 219 . DE-44 29 467 . DE-44 23 410 and DE-195 16 705 described active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients. Sodium hydrogen carbonate can also be used advantageously.

It is also advantageous that Preparations in the sense of the present invention further antiirritative or anti-inflammatory Add active ingredients, especially batyl alcohol (α-octadecylglyceryl ether), selachyl alcohol (Α-9-Octadecenylglycerylether) Chimyl alcohol (α-hexadecylglyceryl ether), Bisabolol and / or panthenol.

It is also advantageous to add customary antioxidants to the preparations for the purposes of the present invention. According to the invention, all of the cosmetic and / or cosmetic agents can be used as favorable antioxidants suitable or customary antioxidants are used in matological applications.

The antioxidants are advantageously chosen from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, ψ-lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthioura cil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, Cystamine and its glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate , Distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) are very well tolerated doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, Biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, furfurylidensorbitol and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbylacetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakh resinic acid, derihbutyanic acid, trihydric acid, trihydric acid, trihydric acid derivatives, trihydric acid derivatives, trihydric acid derivatives, trihydric acid, Zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbene and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances which are suitable according to the invention.

The amount of antioxidants (a or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its Derivatives that are antioxidants are advantageous their respective concentrations in the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Preparations according to the present invention can also be used as a basis for cosmetic or dermatological deodorants or antiperspirants. All active ingredients common to deodorants or antiperspirants can be used advantageously, for example odor maskers such as the common perfume components, odor absorbers, for example those in the patent publication DE-P 40 09 347 Layer silicates described, in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, ilite, beidel lit, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite, and furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid.

The amount of such active substances (a or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, especially 1-10 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The water phase of the cosmetic Preparations in the sense of the present invention can also have a gel character have, in addition to an effective content of the used according to the invention Substances and therefore usually solvents used, preferably water, still further organic and / or inorganic Thickener.

The inorganic thickener (s) can for example, advantageously chosen become from the group of modified or unmodified, naturally occurring or synthetic layered silicates.

Although it is quite cheap, pure Use components, it can however, also advantageously, mixtures of different modified and / or unmodified phyllosilicates in the compositions according to the invention incorporate.

Among layered silicates, which too Phyllosilicates are called, are silicates in the context of this application and to understand aluminosilicates in which the silicate or aluminate units have more than three Si-O or Al-O bonds are linked together and a corrugated Form sheet or layer structure. The fourth Si-O- or Al-O- Valence is saturated by cations. There are weaker electrostatic interactions between the individual layers, e.g. Hydrogen bonds. The layer structure however, it is largely characterized by strong, covalent bonds.

The stoichiometry of the leaf silicates is
(Si ₂ O ₅ ^2– ) for pure silicate structures and
(Al _m Si ^{2 -} _m O ₅ ( ^{2 + m} ) ^- ) for alumosilicates.
m is a number greater than zero and less than 2.

If there are no pure silicates but aluminosilicates, one has to take into account the fact that each Si ⁴⁺ group replaced by Al ³⁺ requires a further simply charged cation for charge neutralization.

The charge balance is preferably balanced by H ⁺ , alkali or alkaline earth metal ions. Alu too Minium as a counter ion is known and advantageous. In contrast to aluminosilicates, these compounds are called aluminum silicates. "Aluminum aluminosilicates" in which aluminum is present both in the silicate network and as a counter ion are also known and may be advantageous for the present invention.

Layer silicates are in the literature well documented, e.g. in the "textbook of inorganic chemistry ", A.F. Hollemann, E. Wiberg and N. Wiberg, 91.-100. Ed., Walter de Gruyter - publisher 1985, passim, as well as "textbook inorganic chemistry ", H.Remy, 12th edition, Akademische Verlagsgesellschaft, Leipzig 1965, passim. The layer structure of montmorillonite is Römpps Chemie-Lexikon, Franckh'sche Verlagshandlung W. Keller & Co., Stuttgart, 8th edition, 1985, pp. 2668 f.

Examples of layered silicates are:
Montmorillonite Na _0.33 (Al _1.67 Mg _0.33 ) (OH) ₂ (S _i4 O ₁₀ ))
often simplified: Al ₂ O ₃ · 4SiO ₂ · H ₂ O · nH ₂ O or Al ₂ [(OH) ₂ / Si ₄ O ₁₀ ] · nH ₂ O
Kaolinite Al ₂ (OH) ₄ (Si ₂ O ₅ )
Ilite (K, H ₃ O) _y (Mg ₃ (OH) ₂ (Si _4-y Al _y O ₁₀ ))
and (K, H ₃ O) _y (Al ₂ (OH) ₂ (Si _4-y Al _y O ₁₀ )) with y = 0.7-0.9
Beidellite (Ca, Na) _0.3 (Al ₂ (OH) ₂ (Al _0.5 Si _3.5 O ₁₀ ))
Nontronite Na _0.33 (Fe ₂ (OH) ₂ (Al _0.33 Si _3.67 O ₁₀ ))
Saponite (Ca, Na) _0.3 (MG, Fe) ₃ (OH) ₂ (Al _0.33 Si _3.67 O ₁₀ ))
Hectorite Na _0.33 ((Mg, Li) ₃ (OH, F) ₂ (Si ₄ O ₁₀ )) montmorillonite is the main mineral of the naturally occurring bentonites.

Very advantageous inorganic gelling agents in the sense of the present invention are aluminum silicates such as montmorillonites (bentonites, hectorites and their derivatives such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorites, stearalkonium bentonites or stearalkonium hectorites) or magnesium-aluminum silicates (Veegum ^® - Types) and sodium-magnesium-silicates (Laponite ^® types)

Montmorillonite represent the dioctahedral Belonging to smectites Clay minerals are and are swelling in water, but not plastic growing masses. The layer packs in the three-layer structure of montmorillonite can through reversible storage of water (in 2-7 times the amount) u. a. Substances such as B. alcohols, glycols, pyridine, α-picoline, Swell ammonium compounds, hydroxy aluminosilicate ions, etc.

The chemical formula given above is only approximate; since M. has a large ion exchange capacity, Al can be exchanged for Mg, Fe ²⁺ , Fe ^{3 +} , Zn, Pb (e.g. from pollutants in waste water) Cr, also Cu and others. The resulting negative charge of the octahedron layers is compensated for by cations, in particular Na ⁺ (sodium montmorillonite) and Ca ²⁺ (the calcium montmorillonite is only very slightly swellable) in interlayer positions.

For the purposes of the present invention, useful synthetic magnesium silicates and bentonites, for example, sold by Süd-Chemie under the trade Optigel ^®.

An advantageous in the sense of the present invention, aluminum silicate, for example, sold by RT Vanderbilt Comp., Inc. under the trade name Veegum ^®. The various Veegum ^® types, all of which are advantageous according to the invention, are distinguished by the following compositions

These products swell in water to form viscous gels, which react alkaline. Through organophilization of montmorillonite or bentonites (exchange of the interlayer cations against quaternaries Alkylammonium ions) produce products (bentones) that are preferred for dispersion in organic solvents and oils, fats, Ointments, paints, varnishes and in detergents can be used.

Bentone ^® is a trade name for various neutral and chemically inert gelling agents that are made up of long-chain, organic ammonium salts and special types of montmorillonite. Bentones swell in organic media and make them swell. The gels are stable in dilute acids and alkalis, but they lose some of their gelling properties if they are in contact with strong acids and alkalis for a long time. Due to their organophilic character, the bentones are difficult to wet with water.

The following Bentone ^® types are sold, for example, by Kronos Titan: Bentone ^® 27, an organically modified montmorillonite, Bentone ^® 34 (dimethyldioctylammonium bentonite), which according to US 2,531,427 is produced and because of its lipophilic groups swells better in the lipophilic medium than in water, Bentone ^® 38, an organically modified montmorillonite, a cream to white powder, Bentone® LT, a purified clay mineral, Bentone ^® Gel MIO, an organically modified montmorillonite, which finely suspended in mineral oil (SUS-71) (10% bentonite, 86.7% mineral oil and 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone ^® Gel IPM, an organically modified bentonite suspended in isopropyl myristate (10% bentonite, 86 , 7% isopropyl myristate, 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone ^® Gel CAO, an organically modified montmorillonite which is absorbed in castor oil (10% bentonite, 86.7% castor oil and 3.3% wetting agent), Bentone ^® Gel Lantrol, an organically modified montmorillonite, which is intended in paste form for further processing, in particular for the production of cosmetic products; 10% bentonite, 64.9 lantrol (wool wax oil), 22.0 isopropyl myristate, 3.0 wetting agent and 0.1 p-hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester, Bentone ^® Gel Lan I, a 10% Bentone ^® 27 paste in a mixture of wool wax USP and isopropyl palmitate, Bentone ^® Gel Lan II, a bentonite paste in pure, liquid wool wax, Bentone ^® Gel NV, a 15% Bentone ^® 27 paste in dibutyl phthalate, Bentone ^® Gel OMS, a bentonite paste in Shellsol T. Bentone ^® Gel OMS 25, a bentonite paste in isoparaffinic hydrocarbons (Idopar ^® H), Bentone ^® Gel IPP, a bentonite paste in isopropyl palmitate.

"Hydrocolloid" is the technological short name for the more correct term "hydrophilic colloid". Hydrocolloids are macromolecules that are largely linear in shape and have intermolecular interaction forces that enable secondary and main valence bonds between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a network-like structure. Some of them are water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers that form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water by either binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and enveloping the water in their intertwined macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water. Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers, the common feature of which is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked. The hydrophilic groups can be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:

• – organische, natürliche Verbindungen, wie beispielsweise Agar-Agar, Carrageen, Tragant, Gummi arabicum, Alginate, Pektine, Polyosen, Guar-Mehl, Johannisbrotbaumkernmehl, Stärke, Dextrine, Gelatine, Casein,
• – organische, abgewandelte Naturstoffe, wie z. B. Carboxymethylcellulose und andere Celluloseether, Hydroxyethyl- und -propylcellulose und mikrokristalline Cellulose dergleichen,
• – organische, vollsynthetische Verbindungen, wie z. B. Polyacryl- und Polymethacryl-Verbindungen, Vinylpolymere, Polycarbonsäuren, Polyether, Polyimine, Polyamide, Polyurethane
• – anorganische Verbindungen, wie z. B. Polykieselsäuren, Tonmineralien wie Montmorillonite, Zeolithe, Kieselsäuren.

The group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids can be divided as follows:

• - Organic, natural compounds such as agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, gum arabi cum, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, starch, dextrins, gelatin, casein,
• - Organic, modified natural substances, such as. B. carboxymethyl cellulose and other cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose and microcrystalline cellulose, the like,
• - Organic, fully synthetic compounds, such as. B. polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, polyimines, polyamides, polyurethanes
• - inorganic compounds, such as. B. polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicas.

Microcrystalline cellulose is an advantageous hydrocolloid for the purposes of the present invention. It is available, for example from the "FMC Corporation Food and Pharmaceutical Products" under the trade name Avicel ^®. A particularly advantageous pro duct in the sense of the present invention is the type Avicel ^® RC-591, which is a modified microcrystalline cellulose composed of 89% microcrystalline cellulose and 11% of sodium carboxymethyl cellulose. Other commercial products in this raw material class are Avicel ^® RC / CL, Avicel ^® CE-15, Avicel ^® 500.

in der R ein Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe darstellen kann.Further hydrocolloids which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, methyl celluloses, as the methyl ethers of cellulose are referred to. They are characterized by the following structural formula

in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention are the cellulose mixed ethers, which are generally also referred to as methyl celluloses and which, in addition to a dominant content of methyl, additionally contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. Particularly preferred (hydroxypropyl) methylcelluloses, for example, under the trade name Methocel ^® E4M from the Dow Chemical Comp. available.

Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH ₂ COONa. Particularly preferred are the sodium carboxymethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon, also referred to as cellulose gum.

For the purposes of the present invention, preference is also given to xanthan (CAS No. 11138-66-2), also called xanthan gum, which is an anionic heteropolysaccharide which is generally formed from corn sugar by fermentation and is isolated as the potassium salt. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2 × 10 ⁶ to 24 × 10 ⁶ . Xanthan is formed from a chain with β-1,4-bound glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. Xanthan is the name for the first microbial anionic heteropolysac charid. It is produced by Xanthomonas campestris and some other species under aerobic conditions with a molecular weight of 2-15 10 ⁶ . Xanthan is formed from a chain with β-1,4-bound glucose (cellulose) with side chains. The structure of the subgroups consists of glucose, mannose, glucuronic acid, acetate and pyruvate. The number of pyruvate units determines the viscosity of the xanthane. Xanthan is produced in two-day batch cultures with a yield of 70-90%, based on the carbohydrate used. Yields of 25-30 g / l are achieved. The work-up takes place after killing the culture by precipitation with z. B. 2-propanol. Xanthan is then dried and ground.

Advantageous gelling agent in the sense The present invention is also carrageenan, a gel-forming and similar like agar-based extract from North Atlantic, to the florids counting Red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).

The term carrageen is often used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract from it. The carrageenan precipitated from the hot water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sulfate content of approx. 25%. Carrageenan that dissolves very easily in warm water. is; a thixotropic gel forms on cooling, even if the water content is 95-98%. The firmness of the gel is brought about by the double helix structure of the carrageenan. There are three main components in carrageenan: The gel-forming κ fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose, which alternate in 1,3- and 1,4-positions are glycosidically linked (in contrast, agar contains 3,6-anhydro-α-L-galactose). The non-gelling λ fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1,4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues u. Easily soluble in cold water. The ι-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1,3-bond and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1,4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming. Other types of carrageenan are also designated with Greek letters: α, β, γ, μ, ν, ξ, π, ω, χ. The type of cations present (K ⁺ , NH ₄ ⁺ , Na ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ^{2 +} ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.

Polyacrylates are also advantageous gelators to be used in the sense of the present invention. According to the invention advantageous polyacrylates are acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular those from the group of so-called carbomers or carbopols (Carbopol ^® is actually a registered trademark of the BF Goodrich Company). In particular, the acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers which are advantageous according to the invention are distinguished by the following structure:

R 'represents a long-chain alkyl radical and x and y are numbers which represent the respective stoichiometric proportion of the respective Symbolize comonomers.

According to the invention particularly preferably acrylate copolymers and / or acrylate-alkyl acrylate copolymers, which are available from the BFGoodrich Company under the trade names Carbopol ^® 1382, Carbopol ^® 981 and Carbopol ^® 5984, preferably polyacrylates from the group of Carbopol grades 980, 981 , 1382, 2984, 5984 and particularly preferably Carbomer 2001 Also advantageous are copolymers of C _10-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are crosslinked with an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.

Compounds which have the INCI name “Acrylates / C _10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer” are advantageous. Particularly advantageous are those available under the trade names Pemulen TR1 and Pemulen TR2 from the BF Goodrich Company.

Connections that are advantageous the INCI name ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinyl pyrrolidone copolymers wear.

According to the invention, the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer (s) advantageously have the empirical formula [C ₇ H ₁₆ N ₂ SO ₄ ] _n [C ₆ H ₉ NO) _m , corresponding to a statistical structure as follows

Preferred species for the purposes of the present invention are listed in Chemical Abstracts under the registry numbers 58374-69-9, 13162-05-5 and 88-12-0 stored and available under the trade name Aristoflex ^® AVC from Clariant GmbH.

Also advantageous are copolymers / crosspolymers comprising Acryloyldimethyl Taurate such as Simugel® ^® EC or EC Simugel® ^® from Seppic SA

Further advantageous according to the invention Hydrocolloids to be used are also

1. Water-soluble or dispersible anionic polyurethanes, which are advantageously obtainable from
i) at least one compound which contains two or more active hydrogen atoms per molecule,
ii) at least one diol containing acid or salt groups and
iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Component i) is, in particular, diols, amino alcohols, diamines, polyesterols, polyetherols with a number-average molecular weight of up to 3,000 each, or mixtures thereof, it being possible for up to 3 mol% of the compounds mentioned to be replaced by triols or triamines. Diols and polyester diols are preferred. In particular, component (a) comprises at least 50% by weight, based on the total weight of component (a), of a polyester diol. Suitable polyester diols are all those which are customarily used for the production of polyurethanes, in particular reaction products of phthalic acid and diethylene glycol, isophthalic acid and 1,4-butanediol, isophthalic acid / adipic acid and 1,6-hexanediol, and adipic acid and ethylene glycol or 5-NaSO ₃ -Isophthalic acid, phthalic acid, adipic acid and 1,6-hexanediol.

Useful diols are e.g. ethylene glycol, Propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, polyetherols, such as Polyethylene glycols with molecular weights up to 3000, block copolymers from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with number average molecular weights up to 3000 or block copolymers of ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and butylene oxide, which randomly distributes the alkylene oxide units or in the form of blocks polymerized included. Ethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, Di-, tri-, tetra-, penta or hexaethylene glycol. Useful diols are also Poly (α-hydroxycarboxylic acid) diols.

Suitable amino alcohols are e.g. 2-aminoethanol, 2- (N-methylamino) ethanol, 3-aminopropanol or 4-aminobutanol.

Suitable diamines are e.g. ethylene diamine, Propylenediamine, 1,4-diaminobutane and 1,6-diaminohexane as well as α, ω-diamines by amination of polyalkylene oxides can be produced with ammonia.

worin RR jeweils für eine C₂-C₁₈-Alkylengruppe steht und Me für Na oder K steht.Component ii) is in particular dimethylolpropanoic acid or compounds of the formulas

where RR stands for a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkylene group and Me stands for Na or K.

Component iii) is concerned are especially hexamethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, Methyl diphenyl isocyanate (MDI) and / or tolylene diisocyanate.

The polyurethanes are available that he the compounds of groups i) and ii) under an inert gas atmosphere in one inert solvents at temperatures from 70 to 130 ° C with the compounds of group iii). This implementation can may be carried out in the presence of chain extenders, to polyurethanes with higher To produce molecular weights. As is common in the manufacture of polyurethanes the components [(i) + (ii)]: iii) advantageously in the molar ratio of 0.8 to 1.1: 1 used. The acid number The polyurethane is made up of the composition and the concentration the compounds of component (ü) in the mixture of the components (i) + (ii) determined.

The polyurethanes have K values H. Fikentscher (determined in 0.1% by weight solutions in N-methylpyrrolidone at 25 ° C and pH 7) from 15 to 100, preferably 25 to 50.

berechnet, in der bedeuten: η_r = relative Viskosität (dynamische Viskosität der Lösgung/dynamische Viskosität des Lösemittels) und c = Massenkonzentration an Polymer in der Lösung (in g/cm³).The K-value, also known as intrinsic viscosity, is a value that is easy to determine by measuring the viscosity of polymer solutions and is therefore techn. Range of frequently used parameters for the characterization of polymers. For a certain type of polymer, it is assumed, under standardized measuring conditions, to be solely dependent on the average molar mass of the sample examined and via the relationship K value = 1000 k according to the Fikentscher equation

calculated, in which mean: η _r = relative viscosity (dynamic viscosity of the solution / dynamic viscosity of the solvent) and c = mass concentration of polymer in the solution (in g / cm ³ ).

The polyurethanes containing acid groups are partially or completely water-soluble after neutralization or dispersible without the use of emulsifiers. As a rule the salts of the polyurethanes have better water solubility or dispersibility in water than the non-neuralized ones Polyurethanes. As a base for the neutralization of the polyurethanes can alkali metal bases such as Sodium hydroxide solution, potassium hydroxide solution, soda, sodium hydrogen carbonate, potassium carbonate or potassium hydrogen carbonate and alkaline earth metal bases such as calcium hydroxide, Calcium oxide, magnesium hydroxide or magnesium carbonate as well as ammonia and Amines can be used. Especially have neutralization of acid groups containing polyurethanes 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, diethylaminopropylamine and triisopropanolamine proven. The neutralization of the acid groups containing polyurethanes can also be mixed with the aid of several Bases are made, e.g. Mixtures of sodium hydroxide solution and triisopropanolamine. Depending on the application, the neutralization can e.g. to 20 to 40% or completely, i.e. 100% done.

These polymers and their production are in DE-A-42 25 045 described in detail, to which reference is hereby made in full.

2. Water-soluble or dispersible, cationic polyurethanes and polyureas
a) at least one diisocyanate which may already have been reacted beforehand with one or more compounds which contain two or more active hydrogen atoms per molecule, and
b) at least one diol, primary or secondary amino alcohol, primary or secondary diamine or primary or secondary triamine with one or more tertiary, quaternary or protonated tertiary amino nitrogen atoms.

Preferred diisocyanates are like indicated above under 1). Connections with two or more active Hydrogen atoms are diols, amino alcohols, diamines, polyesterols. Polyamide diamines and polyetherols. Suitable compounds of these Kinds are given as above under 1).

The polyurethanes are produced as described under 1) above. Charged cationic groups can be generated from the tertiary amino nitrogen atoms present either by protonation, for example with carboxylic acids such as lactic acid, or by quaternization, for example with alkylating agents such as C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl halides or sulfates in the polyureas. Examples of such alkylating agents are ethyl chloride, ethyl bromide, methyl chloride, methyl bromide, dimethyl sulfate and diethyl sulfate.

These polymers and their manufacture are in the DE-A-42 41 118 described in detail, to which reference is hereby made in full.

worin RR' für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine C₁-C₂₀-Alkylgruppe steht, die in einer Menge verwendet wird, welche ausreicht, daß in dem Polyurethan 0,35 bis 2,25 Milliäquivalente Carboxylgruppen pro g Polyurethan vorhanden sind,
ii) 10 bis 90 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gewicht des Polyurethans, einer oder mehrerer organischer Verbindungen mit nicht mehr als zwei aktiven Wasserstoffatomen und
iii) einem oder mehreren organischen Diisocyanaten.3. Linear polyurethanes with carboxylate groups
i) a 2,2-hydroxymethyl-substituted carboxylic acid of the formula

wherein RR 'represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl group which is used in an amount sufficient to have 0.35 to 2.25 milliequivalents of carboxyl groups per g of polyurethane in the polyurethane,
ii) 10 to 90% by weight, based on the weight of the polyurethane, of one or more organic compounds having no more than two active hydrogen atoms and
iii) one or more organic diisocyanates.

Finally, the carboxyl groups contained in the polyurethane are at least partially neutralized with a suitable base. These polymers and their manufacture are in the EP-A-619 111 to which reference is hereby made in full.

4. Carboxyl-containing polycondensation products from anhydrides of tri- or tetracarboxylic acids and diols, diamines or amino alcohols (polyesters, polyamides or polyester amides). These polymers and their manufacture are in the DE-A-42 24 761 described in detail, to which reference is hereby made in full.

5. Polyacrylates and polymethacrylates as used in the DE-A-43 14 305 . 36 27 970 and 29 17 504 are described in more detail. Reference is hereby made in full to these publications.

The polymers used according to the invention preferably have a K value of 25 to 100, preferably 25 to 50. The polymers in the composition according to the invention are generally in an amount in the range of 0.2 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the agent. The salt is used in an amount effective to improve the interchangeability of the polymers. In general, the salt is used in an amount of 0.02 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition ,

The total amount of one or more Hydrocolloids are used in the finished cosmetic or dermatological Preparations advantageously less than 5% by weight, before moving between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, selected.

It can also be advantageous Preparations according to the invention boundary or surface active agents inflict, for example cationic emulsifiers such as, in particular, quaternary surfactants.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least an N atom covalently linked to 4 alkyl or aryl groups is. This leads to, independently from the pH value to a positive charge. Advantages are alkyl betaine, Alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain. The used according to the invention cationic surfactants can also preferably chosen are from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular Benzyltrialkylammoniumchloride or bromide, such as Benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, furthermore alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride or bromide, Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, Alkyl pyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetyl pyrimidinium chloride, Imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Cetyltrimethylammonium salts are particularly advantageous.

Advantageously, also, cationic polymers (for example, Jaguar ^® C 162 [Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride] and modified magnesium aluminum silicates (eg, quaternium-18 hectorite, which, for. Example, under the trade name Bentone ^® is available from Rheox 38 or Stearalkonium Hectorite, which is available, for example, from Hüls AG under the trade name Softisan ^® Gel).

Preparations according to the invention can advantageously also contain oil thickeners in order to improve the tactile properties of the emulsion and the stick consistency. Advantageous oil thickeners for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, other solids, such as, for. B. hydrophobic silicon oxides of the type Aerosil ^® , which are available from Degussa AG. Advantageous Aerosil ^® types are, for example, Aerosil ^® OX50, Aerosil ^® 130, Aerosil® 150, Aerosil ^® 200, Aerosil ^® 300, Aerosil ^® 380, Aerosil ^® MOX 80, Aerosil ^® MOX 170, Aerosil ^® COK 84, Aerosil ^® R 202 , Aerosil ^® R 805, Aerosil ^® R 812, Aerosil ^® R 972, Aerosil ^® R 974 and / or Aerosil ^® R976.

So-called metal soaps are also available (i.e. the salts of higher fatty acids with the exception of the alkali salts) advantageous oil thickeners in the sense of the present invention, such as aluminum stearate, Zinc stearate and / or magnesium stearate.

Preparations are also advantageous according to the invention amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (e.g. cocoamidopropyl betaine) and moisturizer (e.g. betaine). To be used advantageously amphoteric surfactants are, for example, acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, Disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodium acyl amphohydroxypropyl sulfonate, Disodium acyl amphodiacetate and sodium acyl amphopropionate, N-alkyl amino acids, for example Aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

The amount of surfactants Substances (one or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, especially 1-10 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

An amazing property of the Preparations according to the invention is that this very good vehicle for are cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, whereby preferred active ingredients are the aforementioned antioxidants, which can protect the skin from oxidative stress.

According to the invention, the active ingredients (one or more compounds) can also be selected very advantageously from the group of lipophilic active ingredients, in particular from the following group:
Acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, e.g. B. hydrocortisone-17-valerate, vitamins of the B and D series, very cheap the vitamin B ,, the vitamin B ₁₂ the vitamin D ,, but also bisabolol, unsaturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often called vitamin F) ), in particular γ-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid and its derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, e.g. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on.

It is also advantageous to select the active ingredients from the group of refatting substances, for example Purcellin oil, Eucerit ^® and Neocerit ^® .

The active ingredient (s) are particularly advantageously selected from the group of NO synthase inhibitors, in particular if the preparations according to the invention for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin.

The preferred NO synthase inhibitor is the nitroarginine.

The or will be further advantageous the active ingredients selected from the group which catechins and bile esters of catechins and aqueous or comprises organic extracts from plants or parts of plants which contain catechins or bile esters of catechins, such as the leaves the Theaceae plant family, in particular the Camellia species sinensis (greener Tea). Their typical ingredients are particularly advantageous (such as polyphenols or catechins, caffeine, vitamins, sugar, Minerals, amino acids, Lipids).

Catechins represent a group of Compounds to be understood as hydrogenated flavones or anthocyanidins and derivatives of "catechins" (catechol, 3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol, 2- (3,4-dihydroxyphenyl) -chroman-3,5,7-triol). Epicatechin too ((2R, 3R) -3,3 ', 4', 5,7-flavanpentaol) is an advantageous active substance in the sense of the present invention.

Vegetable are also advantageous excerpts Containing catechins, in particular green tea extracts, such as B. Extracts from leaves of plants of the species Camellia spec., especially of the teas Camellia sinenis, C. assamica, C. taliensis and C. irrawadiensis and crosses of these with, for example, Camellia japonica.

Preferred active ingredients are also Polyphenols or catechins from the group (-) - catechin, (+) - catechin, (-) - catechin, (-) - gallocatechin, (+) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin, (-) - epicatechin Gallat, (-) - epigallocatechin, (-) - epigallocatechin gallate.

Flavon and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are advantageous active substances in the sense of the present invention. They are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also preferably be used in preparations according to the invention, are listed in Table 2 below:

In nature, flavones come in the Usually in glycosidated form.

wobei Z₁ bis Z₇ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe H, OH, Alkoxy- sowie Hydroxyalkoxy-, wobei die Alkoxy- bzw. Hydroxyalkoxygruppen verzweigt und unverzweigt sein und 1 bis 18 C-Atome aufweisen können, und wobei Gly gewählt wird aus der Gruppe der Mono- und Oligoglycosidreste.According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z ₁ to Z ₇ are selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

wobei Z₁ bis Z₆ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe H, OH, Alkoxy- sowie Hydroxyalkoxy-, wobei die Alkoxy- bzw. Hydroxyalkoxygruppen verzweigt und unverzweigt sein und 1 bis 18 C-Atome aufweisen können, und wobei Gly gewählt wird aus der Gruppe der Mono- und Oligoglycosidreste.According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z ₁ to Z _{6 are} independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

wobei Gly₁, Gly₂ und Gly₃ unabhängig voneinander Monoglycosidreste oder darstellen. Gly₂ bzw. Gly₃ können auch einzeln oder gemeinsam Absättigungen durch Wasserstoffatome darstellen.Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

Z ₁ to Z ₅ are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

wobei Gly₁, Gly₂ und Gly₃ unabhängig voneinander Monoglycosidreste oder darstellen. Gly₂ bzw. Gly₃ können auch einzeln oder gemeinsam Absättigungen durch Wasserstoffatome darstellen.The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:

where Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also individually or together represent saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Gly ₁ , Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. However, other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

Particularly advantageous in the sense of The present invention is to choose the flavone glycoside (s) from the group α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercitrin, α-glucosylisoquercetin and α-glucosylquercitrin.

According to the invention, α-glucosylrutin is particularly preferred.

Naringin are also advantageous according to the invention (Aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanon-7-rutinoside, Hesperidoside, hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside). Rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinosid, Quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutan, rutabion, taurutin, phytomelin, Melin), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D glucopyranoside)) Monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)) . Dihydrorobinetin (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone), Taxifolin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone), Eriodictyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside), Flavanomareïn (3 ', 4', 7,8-Tetrahydroxyflavanon-7-glucoside) and isoquercetin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone-3- (β-D-glucopyranoside).

It is also advantageous to the or to choose the active substances from the group of ubiquinones and plastoquinones.

aus und stellen die am weitesten verbreiteten und damit am besten untersuchten Biochinone dar. Ubichinone werden je nach Zahl der in der Seitenkette verknüpften Isopren-Einheiten als Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 usw. oder nach Anzahl der C-Atome als U-5, U-10, U-15 usw. bezeichnet. Sie treten bevorzugt mit bestimmten Kettenlängen auf, z. B. in einigen Mikroorganismen und Hefen mit n = 6. Bei den meisten Säugetieren einschließlich des Menschen überwiegt Q10.Ubiquinones are characterized by the structural formula

and represent the most widespread and thus the best studied bioquinones. Depending on the number of isoprene units linked in the side chain, ubiquinones are called Q-1, Q-2, Q-3 etc. or the number of C atoms as U-5, U-10, U-15, etc. designated. They preferably occur with certain chain lengths, e.g. B. in some microorganisms and yeasts with n = 6. In most mammals, including humans, Q10 predominates.

Coenzyme Q10, which is characterized by the following structural formula, is particularly advantageous:

auf. Plastoschinone unterscheiden sich in der Anzahl n der Isopren-Reste und werden endsprechend bezeichnet, z. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). Ferner existieren andere Plastochinone mit unterschiedlichen Substituenten am Chinon-Ring.Plastoquinones have the general structural formula

on. Plastoquinones differ in the number n of isoprene residues and are designated accordingly, e.g. B. PQ-9 (n = 9). There are also other plastoquinones with different substituents on the quinone ring.

Creatine and / or creatine derivatives are also preferred active substances for the purposes of the present invention. Creative is characterized by the following structure:

Preferred derivatives are creatine phosphate as well as creatine sulfate, creatine acetate, creatine ascorbate and those at the Carboxyl group esterified with mono- or polyfunctional alcohols Derivatives.

wobei R gewählt wird aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylreste mit bis zu 10 Kohlenstoffatomen sind vorteilhafte Wirkstoffe im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung. Bevorzugt sind Propionylcarnitin und insbesondere Acetylcarnitin. Beide Entantiomere (D- und L-Form) sind vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung zu verwenden. Es kann auch von Vorteil sein, beliebige Enantiomerengemische, beispielsweise ein Racemat aus D- und L-Form, zu verwenden.Another advantageous active ingredient is L-carnitine [3-hydroxy-4- (trimethylammonio) butyric acid betaine]. Also acyl-carnitine, which is selected from the group of substances of the following general structural formula

where R is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl radicals having up to 10 carbon atoms are advantageous active ingredients in the sense of the present invention. Propionylcarnitine and in particular acetylcarnitine are preferred. Both entantiomers (D- and L-form) can be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use any mixture of enantiomers, for example a racemate of D and L form.

Other advantageous active ingredients are Sericoside, pyridoxol, vitamin K, biotin and flavorings.

The list of active ingredients mentioned or combinations of active ingredients in the preparations according to the invention can be used should go without saying not be limiting. The active ingredients can be individual or in any Combinations with each other can be used.

The amount of such active substances (a or more compounds) in the preparations according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, especially 0.1 - 10 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It can also be advantageous if necessary be in the sense of the present invention, the preparations according to the invention Dyes and / or pigments to incorporate.

The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below. The Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.

It can also be advantageous to use a dye or select several substances from the following group: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, Ceres red, 2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt the 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromfluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, Aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), Iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.

Oil-soluble natural dyes are also advantageous, such as B. paprika extracts, β-carotene or cochineal.

• – „Fischsilber" (Guanin/Hypoxanthin-Mischkristalle aus Fischschuppen) und
• – „Perlmutt" (vermahlene Muschelschalen)

Monokristalline Perlglanzpigmente wie z. B. Bismuthoxychlorid (BiOCl)
Schicht-Substrat Pigmente: z. B. Glimmer/MetalloxidGel creams with a content of pearlescent pigments are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention. The types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:
Natural pearlescent pigments, such as. B.

• - "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and
• - "mother-of-pearl" (milled mussel shells)

Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as B. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl)
Layer-substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide

The basis for pearlescent pigments are, for example powdery Pigments or castor oil dispersions from Bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or Titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. B. the under the CIN 77163 listed gloss pigment.

The following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:

For example, particular preference is given to the from Merck under the trade names Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona available Pearlescent pigments.

The list of the pearlescent pigments mentioned is of course not intended to be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention can be obtained in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides mica can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. B. silica and the like. Z are advantageous. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronasphe ren"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.

It can also be advantageous to completely do without a substrate such as mica. Pearlescent pigments which are produced using SiO ₂ are particularly preferred. Such pigments, which can also have gonichromatic effects, are e.g. B. available under the trade name Sicopearl Fantastico from BASF.

Pigments can also be advantageous from Engelhard / Mearl based on calcium sodium borosilicate, coated with titanium dioxide. These are available under the name Reflecks. Due to their particle size of 40 - 180 µm, they also assign the color has a glitter effect.

Are also particularly advantageous also effect pigments sold under the trade name Metasomes Standard / glitter in different colors (yellow, red, green, blue) are available from Flora Tech. The glitter particles are in mixtures with different ones Auxiliaries and dyes (such as the dyes with the Color Index (CI) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).

The dyes and pigments can both individually and in a mixture and mutually be coated, with different coating thicknesses different color effects are generally produced. The The total amount of dyes and coloring pigments is advantageous from the range of z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1.0 to 10% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

The preparation of preparations according to the invention takes place under the conditions familiar to the person skilled in the art. It will usually the components of the oil phase or water phase put together separately and heated, and then with stirring and, particularly advantageous, with homogenization, very particularly advantageous with stirring with medium to high energy input, advantageously with the help of a Gear rim dispersing machine with a maximum number of revolutions 10000 rpm, preferably from 2500 to 7700 rpm, combined together.

The following examples are intended clarify the present invention.

1. Examples of O / W cream:

2. Examples of W / O emulsions:

3. Examples of hydrodispersions:

4. Example (gel cream):

5th example (W / O cream):

6. Example (W / O / W cream):

7. Example (shower bath):

8. Example (hair treatment):

Example 9 (hair conditioner):

10. Example (conditioner shampoo with pearlescent):

Example 11 (clear conditioner shampoo):

Example 12 (clear light shampoo with volume effect):

Claims (8)

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing soybean germ extracts or ingredients isolatable therefrom in combination with vitamin C and / or E and / or α-glycosylrutin and / or their derivatives. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as ingredients from soybean germ extracts daidzin, glycitin, genistin, daidzein, glycitein, genistein and saponins be used. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized that as Derivatives of vitamin C and E ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Ascorbyl-ace-tat, vitamin E-ace-tat can be chosen. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized that the Preparations 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously 0.5 to 10% by weight, very particularly preferably 1 to 5% by weight of soybean germ extracts or Contain ingredients from it isolatable. Preparations according to one of the preceding claims characterized that the Preparations 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously 0.5 to 10% by weight, very particularly preferably 1 to 5% by weight of vitamin C and / or E and / or 0.001 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.005 to 2% by weight, very particularly preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight of α-glycosyl rutin and / or their derivatives included. Use of preparations according to one of the preceding Expectations to restructure and / or rejuvenate the skin. Use of preparations according to one of the preceding Expectations to stimulate collagen synthesis, especially to improve it the three-dimensional structure of the dermis-epidermis junction and to facilitate scarring with reduced scarring for injuries to the epidermis. Use of preparations according to one of the preceding Expectations for inspiration of the body and the senses of man.