DE102009055281A1 - Emulsion for keratin-containing fibers containing at least one anionic thickening polymer, at least one nonionic hair-setting polymer, at least one ester oil, at least one wax and water - Google Patents

Abstract

Agent in the form of an emulsion for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, comprising a water phase and an oil phase, these agents containing (a) at least one anionic, thickening polymer and (b) at least one nonionic, hair-setting polymer and (c) at least an ester oil and (d) at least one wax and (e) water are most suitable for use in temporarily shaping hair. Remodelable hairstyles are obtained without the formation of film plaques.

Description

The present invention relates to hair treatment compositions in the form of an emulsion containing a combination of at least one anionic, thickening polymer, at least one nonionic, hair setting polymer, at least one ester oil, at least one wax and water, the use of these temporary deformation agents and / or for the care of keratin-containing fiber and a corresponding method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin-containing fibers.

Under keratin fibers are in principle all animal hair, z. As wool, horsehair, angora, furs, feathers and products or textiles made thereof understood. Preferably, however, the keratinic fibers are human hairs.

An attractive-looking hairstyle is now generally considered an indispensable part of a well-groomed appearance. Due to current fashion trends, hairstyles are always considered to be chic, which in many hair types can only be built up using firming agents or can be maintained for a longer period of time up to several days. Therefore, hair treatment agents that serve a permanent or temporary shaping of the hair play an important role. Temporary shapes that should give a good hold, without affecting the healthy appearance of the hair, such as their gloss, can be achieved for example by hair sprays, hair waxes, hair gels, hair mousses, hair drier, etc.

Corresponding means for temporary shaping usually contain synthetic polymers, so-called hair-fixing polymers, as the shaping component. Preparations containing a dissolved or dispersed polymer can be applied to the hair by means of propellant gases or by a pumping mechanism. In particular, however, hair gels and hair waxes are generally not applied directly to the hair, but distributed by means of a comb or hands in the hair.

An important property of a means for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, also referred to below as styling agent, is to give the treated fibers in the produced form the strongest possible hold. If the keratin fibers are human hair, it is also referred to as a strong hairstyle or the high degree of retention of the styling agent. The hairstyle hold is essentially determined by the type and amount of the synthetic polymer used, but also an influence of the other constituents of the styling agent may be given. Ideally, when applied to hair, the polymers give a polymer film which, on the one hand, gives the hairstyle strong hold but, on the other hand, is sufficiently flexible not to break under stress. If the polymer film is too brittle, it leads to the formation of so-called film plaques, that is, residues that detach during the movement of the hair and give the impression that the user of the corresponding styling agent would have dandruff.

In addition to a high degree of hold, styling agents must meet a whole range of other requirements. These may be broadly subdivided into properties on the hair, properties of the particular formulation which relate to the handling of the styling agent, the properties of the hair being of particular importance. Particularly noteworthy are moisture resistance, low tackiness and a balanced conditioning effect.

Developing styling agents that have all the desired properties in combination is still difficult. In particular, this applies to the combination of aesthetic aspects on the one hand and strong and flexible grip on the other. To impart a strong hold, the fixing polymer must adhere well to the keratinous fiber and form a sufficiently hard film. Nevertheless, the resulting polymer film does not give the fiber collective tactility of a board, but allows the fibers a degree of flexibility without the imprinted shape of the fiber collective, i. H. z. As a hairstyle is lost. Conventional polymer-based temporary hair fixatives for strong hold are usually not suitable for making remodelable hairstyles. The reason for this is the high strength of the film formed. In a reshaping of the polymer already formfixed hair often breaks the existing film. Consequently, the newly embossed hairstyle can not be readily fixed by the styling agent already on the hair.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide a means for the temporary deformation of keratinic fibers, which is characterized by a high degree of hold, does not form film plaques and enables remodeling of the keratin-containing fiber.

It has now surprisingly been found that this can be achieved by the combination of ingredients according to the invention (vide infra). Compositions according to the invention can be excellently distributed on the hair, give a perfect hairstyle hold and whereby the hairstyle obtained can be remodeled in each case without forming film plaques.

• (a) mindestens ein anionisches, verdickend wirkendes Polymer und
• (b) mindestens ein nichtionisches, haarfestigendes Polymer und
• (c) mindestens ein Esteröl und
• (d) mindestens ein Wachs und
• (e) Wasser.

A first subject of the present invention are therefore cosmetic agents in the form of an emulsion for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers (especially human hair) comprising a water phase and an oil phase, which contain agents

• (A) at least one anionic, thickening polymer and
• (b) at least one nonionic, hair setting polymer and
• (c) at least one ester oil and
• (d) at least one wax and
• (e) water.

The agent according to the invention necessarily contains at least one anionic, thickening polymer as component (a).

According to the invention, an anionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which carries structural units with anionic groups, which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining electroneutrality, in a protic solvent under standard conditions and has no structural units with permanently cationic or cationizable groups. Anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.

The anionic, thickening polymers may be crosslinked or uncrosslinked. For the purposes of the invention, "crosslinked" or "crosslinking" is the linking of polymer chains to one another by covalent chemical bonding to form a network. This covalent linkage of the polymer chains may be effected by means of direct covalent bonding or mediated by a molecular fragment bridging the polymer chains. The molecule fragment binds to the polymer chains bridged by the molecule fragment in each case by means of covalent chemical bonding. For the purposes of the invention, "uncrosslinked" is to be understood as meaning that there is no previously defined "crosslinking".

The anionic, thickening polymers are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01% by weight to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05% by weight to 3.0% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition.

It is very particularly preferred according to the invention if the anionic, thickening polymer is present in the aqueous phase of the cosmetic product according to the invention.

worin R¹ und R² stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe.It is preferred according to the invention if the anionic, thickening polymer contains at least one structural unit selected from at least one structural unit of the formula (PI) or its salt forms or at least one structural unit (P-II) or salt forms thereof,

wherein R ¹ and R ² independently represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group.

According to the above formulas and all following formulas, a chemical bond marked with the symbol * stands for a free valency of the corresponding structural fragment.

Particularly preferred anionic, thickening polymers contain at least one structural unit of the formula (P-I). These are again preferably polyacrylic acid, as obtainable, for example, from the company 3V Sigma under the trade name Synthalen K or from the company Lubrizol under the trade name Carbopol, in each case with the INCI name Carbomer.

worin
R¹ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe,
R³ steht für eine (C₈ bis C₃₀)-Alkylgruppe,
M⁺ steht für ein physiologisch verträgliches Kation und
x steht für eine ganze Zahl von 0 bis 35.It is also possible according to the invention to select at least one amphiphilic, anionic polymer as the anionic, thickening polymer. These preferably comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (IIa) and at least one structural unit of the formula (P-III),

wherein
R ¹ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
R ³ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) -alkyl group,
M ⁺ stands for a physiologically compatible cation and
x is an integer from 0 to 35.

Conceivable here are polymers with the INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, which is available under the trade name Carbopol 1382 from Noveon.

A further suitable polymer is that known under the INCI designation Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer polymer, for example with the trade name Aculyn ^® 88 from the company Rohm & Haas, in the form of a 28 to 30 wt .-% - by weight dispersion in water is sold. Furthermore, polymers can be used according to the INCI nomenclature as Acrylates / Palmeth-25 acrylate copolymer or Acrylates / Palmeth-20 acrylate copolymer werdem. Such polymers are for example available under the trade name Synthalen ^® W 2000 30 to 32 wt .-% emulsion in water by the company 3V Sigma.

worin M und X⁺ unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder ein physiologisch verträgliches Kation stehen.Also suitable according to the invention as anionic, thickening polymer is preferably at least one sulfonic acid polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (P-Ib) and at least one structural unit of the formula (P-IIa)

wherein M and X ⁺ independently represent hydrogen or a physiologically acceptable cation.

The first monomer contained in the sulphonic acid polymer is acrylic acid or sodium acrylate, i. H. the sodium salt of acrylic acid.

The second monomer contained in the sulphonic acid polymer is 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulphonic acid (AMPS) which may be partially or fully neutralized. Usually Na ⁺ and NH ^{4+ are} preferred as cations.

beschreiben, wobei die Indices n und o je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich zwingend um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten der Formeln (P-Ib) und (P-IIa) im Molekül auch statistisch verteilt vorliegen. Preferred sulphonic acid polymers can be characterized by the general formula

describe, wherein the indices n and o vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that it is imperative to block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (P-Ib) and (P-IIa) can also be present in a statistically distributed manner in the molecule.

Preferred sulfonic acid polymers of this type are copolymers of 2-methyl-2 [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and sodium acrylate (for example, as a commercial product Simulgel ^® EC INCI name: Sodium Acrylates / Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate 80) from Seppic.

It is preferred according to the invention if said additional sulphonic acid polymer comprises, in addition to the structural units of the formula (P-Ib) and (P-IIa), at least one structural unit of the formula (P-IV)

This third monomer is dimethylacrylamide.

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m und n und o je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich zwingend um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten der Formeln (P-Ib), (P-IIa) und (P-IV) im Molekül auch statistisch verteilt vorliegen.These preferred sulfonic acid polymers can be characterized by the general formula

describe, wherein the indices m and n and o vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are necessarily block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (P-Ib), (P-IIa) and (P-IV) can also be present in a statistically distributed manner in the molecule.

The monomers of formulas (P-Ib), (P-IIa) and (P-IV) are preferably included in the sulphonic acid polymer in such number and distribution that the copolymer A has molecular weights between 5 and 1000 kDa. Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain copolymer (e) A having molecular weights of from 10 to 750 kDa, preferably from 25 to 500 kDa, more preferably from 50 to 400 kDa and in particular from 70 to 250 kDa.

• – 10 bis 90 Mol.-%, vorzugsweise 15 bis 85 Mol.-% und insbesondere 20 bis 80 Mol.-% Monomere der Formel (P-Ib) und
• – 5 bis 85 Mol.-%, vorzugsweise 7,5 bis 80 Mol.-% und insbesondere 10 bis 60 Mol.-% Monomere der Formel (P-IIa) und
• – 5 bis 85 Mol.-%, vorzugsweise 10 bis 80 Mol.-% und insbesondere 15 bis 70 Mol.-% Monomere der Formel (P-IV)

enthalten.The monomers of the formulas (P-Ib), (P-IIa) and (P-IV) are preferably present within certain limits in the sulphonic acid polymer. Here are preferred agents according to the invention characterized in that they contain sulfonic acid polymers, the

• - 10 to 90 mol .-%, preferably 15 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 20 to 80 mol .-% of monomers of the formula (P-Ib) and
• - 5 to 85 mol .-%, preferably 7.5 to 80 mol .-% and in particular 10 to 60 mol .-% of monomers of the formula (P-IIa) and
• From 5 to 85 mol%, preferably from 10 to 80 mol% and in particular from 15 to 70 mol% of monomers of the formula (P-IV)

contain.

According to the invention, the sulphonic acid polymer is particularly preferably used in the form of an inverse, auto-inversible polymer latex which, in addition to the sulphonic acid polymer, contains isohexadecane as oil phase and sorbitan monostearate as emulsifier.

It is particularly preferred if, for all embodiments of this third embodiment, the acid group (ie the carboxyl groups or the sulphonic acid groups) of the anionic, thickening polymers present completely or partially neutralized - ie present in the salt form. For neutralization, at least one alkanolamine is preferably used. The alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from primary amines having a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1 -Aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol , 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol. Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.

The agent according to the invention necessarily contains at least one nonionic, hair-setting polymer as component (b).

According to the invention, a nonionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which carries in a protic solvent under standard conditions substantially no structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining the electroneutrality. Quaternized ammonium groups, however, do not include protonated amines under cationic groups. Examples of anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.

Hair-setting polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.

As a test method for the hair-firming effect of a polymer, the so-called curl retention test is often used.

Among the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers is the film formation. Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particular preference is given to polymers which have a sufficient solubility in water or water / alcohol mixtures in order to be present in completely completely dissolved form in the agent according to the invention. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin.

According to the invention, film-forming polymers are understood as meaning polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair.

The nonionic, hair-setting polymers are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, very particularly preferably from 2 , 0 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.

It is very particularly preferred according to the invention if the nonionic, hair-fixing polymer is present in the water phase of the cosmetic product according to the invention.

• – Homopolymeren und nichtionischen Copolymeren des N-Vinylpyrrolidons,
• – nichtionischen Copolymeren des Isobutens,
• – nichtionischen Copolymeren des Maleinsäureanhydrids.

The hair setting nonionic polymers are again preferably selected from at least one polymer of the group being formed

• Homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone,
• Nonionic copolymers of isobutene,
• - nonionic copolymers of maleic anhydride.

• – Polyvinylpyrrolidon,
• – Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylestern von Carbonsäuren mit 2 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat,
• – Copolymere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und N-Vinylimidazol und Methacrylamid,
• – Copolymere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und N-Vinylimidazol und Acrylamid,
• – Copolymere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon mit N,N-Di(C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylamino-(C₂ bis C₄)-alkylacrylamid,

sind erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt.An agent comprising, as a nonionic hair-setting polymer, at least one polymer selected from the group formed

• - polyvinylpyrrolidone,
• Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,
• Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and methacrylamide,
• Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and acrylamide,
• Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N, N-di (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkylamino (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -alkylacrylamide,

are particularly preferred according to the invention.

• – Polyvinylpyrrolidon,
• – Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylestern von Carbonsäuren mit 2 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat,

oder Gemische aus diesen Polymeren enthalten, sind erfindungsgemäß ganz besonders bevorzugt.An agent comprising as hair-fixing nonionic polymer at least one polymer selected from the group formed

• - polyvinylpyrrolidone,
• Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,

or mixtures of these polymers are very particularly preferred according to the invention.

Suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are, for example, commercial products such as Luviskol ^® K 90 or Luviskol ^® K 85 from BASF SE.

When copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are used, it is again preferred if the molar ratio of the structural units comprised of the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer comprised of the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, in particular from 30 to 70 to 60 to 40, lies. Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example under the trademark Luviskol ^® VA 37, Luviskol ^® VA 55, Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol ^® VA 73 from the firm BASF SE.

ist es besonders bevorzugt, wenn diese Copolymere neben Polymereinheiten, die aus dem Einbau der genannten Struktureinheiten gemäß Formel (M-I), (M-II) und (M-III) in das Copolymer resultieren, maximal 5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise maximal 1 Gew.-%, Polymereinheiten enthalten, die auf den Einbau anderer Monomere zurückgehen. Vorzugsweise sind die Copolymere ausschließlich aus Struktureinheiten der Formel (M-I), (M-II) und (M-III) aufgebaut und lassen sich durch die allgemeine Formel (Poly 1)

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m, n, o und p je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten der Formeln (M-I), (M-II) und (M-III) im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.If the non-ionic hair-fixing polymer contains at least one copolymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (MI) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-II) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-III) is used,

It is particularly preferred if these copolymers in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of formula (MI), (M-II) and (M-III) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 Wt .-%, contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (MI), (M-II) and (M-III) and can be represented by the general formula (poly 1)

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (MI), (M-II) and (M-III) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

A particularly preferred polymer is selected from polymers of the INCI name VP / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer, which are obtainable, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.

worin
R¹ für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe steht,
X¹ für ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine Gruppe NH steht,
A¹ für eine Gruppe Ethan-1,2-diyl, Propan-1,3-diyl oder Butan-1,4-diyl steht
R² und R³ stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe.Also suitable according to the invention are those agents which comprise at least one nonionic hair-fixing polymer comprising at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-IV)

wherein
R ^{1 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
X ^{1 represents} an oxygen atom or a group NH,
A ^{1 represents} a group ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl
R ² and R ³ independently represent a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl group.

• – R¹ bedeutet eine Methylgruppe,
• – X¹ steht für eine Gruppe NH,
• – A¹ steht für Ethan-1,2-diyl oder Propan-1,3-diyl,
• – R² und R³, stehen unabhängig voneinander für Methyl oder Ethyl, (besonders bevorzugt für Methyl).

In this case, it is particularly preferred if the above nonionic hair-fixing polymer is selected from at least one polymer which satisfies at least one or more of the following properties for formula (ES-II):

• R ^{1 represents} a methyl group,
• X ¹ is a group NH,
• A ¹ is ethane-1,2-diyl or propane-1,3-diyl,
• - R ² and R ³ , independently of one another are methyl or ethyl, (particularly preferably methyl).

The nonionic hair-setting polymer of this embodiment is particularly preferably at least one polymer which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (III) and at least one structural unit of the formula (M-IVa),

A most preferred nonionic film-forming and / or nonionic hair-setting polymer of this embodiment is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N, N-dimethylaminiopropylmethacrylamide, which is exemplified by the INCI name VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer e.g. B. sold under the trade name Styleze ^® CC 10 by the company ISP.

In a possible embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the nonionic, hair-setting polymer as further hair-setting polymer, at least one hair-setting anionic polymer.

The anionic, hair-setting polymers are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1% by weight to 20.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2% by weight to 15.0% by weight, most preferably from 0.5% to 10.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition according to the invention.

und neben mindestens einer Struktureinheit der Formeln (S1-1) bis (S1-3) zusätzlich mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (S2) enthält, die ausgewählt wird aus mindestens einer Struktureinheit der Formeln (S2-1) bis (S2-8)

worin
R¹² für eine (C₂ bis C₁₂)-Acylgruppe (insbesondere für Acetyl oder Neodecanoyl) steht. It is preferred according to the invention if the anionic, hair-fixing polymer contains at least one structural unit of the formula (S1) which is selected from at least one structural unit of the formulas (S1-1) to (S1-3)

and in addition to at least one structural unit of the formulas (S1-1) to (S1-3) additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (S2), which is selected from at least one structural unit of the formulas (S2-1) to (S2-8)

wherein
R ^{12 is} a (C ₂ to C ₁₂ ) acyl group (in particular acetyl or neodecanoyl).

worin R¹² für eine (C₂ bis C₁₂)-Acylgruppe (insbesondere für Acetyl und/oder Neodecanoyl) steht.In a preferred embodiment, such agents according to the invention are preferred as containing at least one polymer as a hair-fixing polymer in the form of particles, which contain at least one structural unit of the formula (S1-3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (S2-8)

wherein R ^{12 is} a (C ₂ to C ₁₂ ) acyl group (in particular acetyl and / or neodecanoyl).

• – Copolymeren aus Vinylacetat und Crotonsäure.
• – Copolymeren aus Vinylpropionat und Crotonsäure,
• – Copolymeren aus Vinylneodecanoat, Vinylacetat und Crotonsäure.

Particularly preferred polymers of this type are selected from at least one polymer of the group formed

• - Copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid.
• - copolymers of vinyl propionate and crotonic acid,
• - Copolymers of vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl acetate and crotonic acid.

Such copolymers are, for example, from the company Clariant under the trade name Aristoflex A 60 (INCI name: VA / Crotonates copolymer) in an isopropanol-water mixture (60 wt .-% active ingredient), from BASF under the trade name Luviset CA 66 (Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymer 90:10, INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer) provided by National Starch under the trade names Resyn 28-2942 and Resyn 28-2930 (INCI name: VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer ) provided.

Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, such agents according to the invention are preferred as containing at least one polymer as anionic hair-fixing polymer, which contain at least one structural unit of the formula (S1-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (S2-5)

worin
R¹⁵ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe
R¹⁶ steht für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe (insbesondere eine Methylgruppe oder eine Ethylgruppe).In this case, it is again particularly preferred if the present in the form of particles, film-forming and / or hair-fixing polymer in addition to the above structural units of the formulas (S1-1) and (S2-5) additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (S3)

wherein
R ¹⁵ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
R ¹⁶ is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group (in particular a methyl group or an ethyl group).

Particularly preferred polymers of this type are selected from at least one polymer of the group which is formed from copolymers of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate and N-tert-butylacrylamide. Such copolymers are, for example, by the company BASF under the trade name Ultrahold ^® Strong (INCI name: Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, white, pourable granulate) or Ultrahold ^® 8 (INCI name: Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, white, pourable Granules) provided.

Within the scope of a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one hair-setting amphoteric polymer in addition to the non-ionic hair-setting polymers.

According to the invention, an amphoteric polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which, in standard conditions, carries structural units in a protic solvent with anionic groups which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining electroneutrality and which additionally has structural units with groups which can be cationized by protonation but is free of permanently cationized groups is. Anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups. Permanently cationized nitrogen atoms are to be understood as meaning those nitrogen atoms which carry a positive charge and thereby form a quaternary ammonium compound.

The amphoteric, hair-setting polymers are preferably present in the powdery composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.1% by weight to 20.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2% by weight. % to 15.0 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.

und neben mindestens einer Struktureinheit der Formeln (S1-1) bis (S1-3) zusätzlich mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (S2) enthält, die ausgewählt wird aus mindestens einer Struktureinheit der Formel (S2-9) bis (S2-15)

worin
X³ steht für ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine Gruppe NH.It is suitable according to the invention if the amphoteric hair-fixing polymer contains at least one structural unit of the formula (S1) which is selected from at least one structural unit of the formulas (S1-1) to (S1-3)

and in addition to at least one structural unit of the formulas (S1-1) to (S1-3) additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (S2), which is selected from at least one structural unit of the formula (S2-9) to (S2-15)

wherein
X ³ represents an oxygen atom or a group NH.

worin
R¹² für eine (C₂ bis C₁₂)-Acylgruppe (insbesondere für Acetyl oder Neodecanoyl) steht. It is again suitable according to the invention if the amphoteric, hair-fixing polymers in addition to at least one structural unit of the formulas (S1-1) to (S1-3) and at least one structural unit of the formulas (S2-9) to (S2-15) additionally at least one structural unit of the formulas (S2-1) to (S2-8)

wherein
R ^{12 is} a (C ₂ to C ₁₂ ) acyl group (in particular acetyl or neodecanoyl).

worin X³ steht für ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine Gruppe NH,
R¹³ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe und
R¹⁴ steht für eine Alkylgruppe mit 4 Kohlenstoffatomen (insbesondere n-Butyl, sec-Butyl, iso-Butyl oder tert-Butyl).An amphoteric, hair-setting polymer is preferably suitable which has at least one structural unit of the formula (S1-1), at least one structural unit of the formula (S2-3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (S2-16) (in particular selected from the group which is formed from the above formulas (S2-5) to (S2-12) with the proviso that X ^{3 represents} an oxygen atom),

wherein X ³ is an oxygen atom or a group NH,
R ¹³ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group and
R ¹⁴ is an alkyl group having 4 carbon atoms (especially n-butyl, sec-butyl, iso-butyl or tert-butyl).

worin
R¹⁵ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe
R¹⁶ steht für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe (insbesondere eine Methylgruppe oder eine Ethylgruppe).In this case, it is again particularly suitable if the amphoteric, hair-fixing polymers additionally contain at least one structural unit of the formula (S3) in addition to the above structural units of the formulas (S1-1), (S2-3) and (S2-16)

wherein
R ¹⁵ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
R ¹⁶ is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group (in particular a methyl group or an ethyl group).

Preferred polymers of this type are selected from the group consisting of copolymers of acrylic acid, (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl acrylate, N- (C ₄ -alkyl) aminoethyl methacrylate and N- (C ₈ -alkyl) acrylamide.

An example of a particularly preferred amphorteren usable in this embodiment, hair-setting polymer is that available under the trade name Amphomer ^® of National Starch polymer having the INCI name octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer.

The inventive compositions mandatory at least one ester oil as component (c).

Ester oils according to the invention have a melting point of less than 30 ° C. at a pressure of 1013 mbar and have at least one alkyloxycarbonyl group in the molecule.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the ester oils are present in an amount of from 0.5 to 30% by weight, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition.

Preferred ester oils are selected from monocarboxylic esters of (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) -alcohols and / or dialkylcarbonates and / or diesters of (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) -alcohols with alpha, omega (C ₄ to C ₈ ) -carboxylic acids

worin
R⁶ steht für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₇)-Alkylgruppe, eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₇)-Alkylgruppe, eine (C₂ bis C₆)-Hydroxyalkylgruppe, eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₈)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₈)-Alkoxygruppe,
R⁵ steht für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe, verzweigte (C₃ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe
R⁷ und R⁸ stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₀)-Alkylgruppe oder eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₀)-Alkylgruppe,
n für eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 6 steht.According to the invention, preference is given to those agents in which the ester oil is selected from at least one compound of the formula (ES-I) and / or of the formula (ES-II)

wherein
R ⁶ represents a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group, a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) -alkoxy group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) alkoxy group,
R ⁵ is a linear (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group, branched (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group
R ⁷ and R ⁸ independently of one another represent a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) -alkyl group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) -alkyl group,
n is an integer from 2 to 6.

The effects of the present invention are particularly pronounced when the agent as Esteröl at least one compound selected from diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, Tridecyl neopentanoate (z. B. ^® Ceraphyl 55 from ISP), decyl oleate (z. B. Ceraphyl ^® 140 ISP), isostearyl (z. B. ^® Ceraphyl 375 from ISP), isocetyl stearate (z. B. ^® Ceraphyl 494 from ISP), 2-octyldodecyl stearate (z. B. Ceraphyl ^® ODS ISP), isopropyl myristate , isononanoic acid C _16-18 alkyl esters, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate (z. B. SCHERCEMOL ^® CO ester Lubrizol), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, cetyl oleate, coconut fatty alcohol caprate / caprylate, n-butyl stearate , oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, hexyl laurate, Cetearyisononanoat, lauryl (z. B. Ceraphyl 31 ^® by ISP), (C12 to C15) alkyl lactate (z. B. ^® Ceraphyl 41 from ISP), dihexyl carbonate, dioctyl carbonate ( z. B. Cetiol ^® CC from Cognis), Didec ylcarbonate is included.

Furthermore, the compositions according to the invention necessarily contain at least one wax as component (d).

It is inventively preferred if the waxes are incorporated as a melt in the ester oil phase and this mixture are emulsified using an emulsifier or surfactant in the water phase.

Waxes according to the invention have a melting point in a range from 40 ° C. to 95 ° C. at 1013 mbar.

Preferably, the waxes are selected from vegetable, animal and mineral waxes, preference being given to those waxes which have a melting point in the range from 50 ° C. to 90 ° C.

Particularly preferred according to the invention, the agent according to the invention contains at least one wax selected from at least one wax of the group beeswax (Cera Alba), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax (in particular microcrystalline paraffin wax) and cetyl palmitate.

The teaching according to the invention also comprises the combined use of several waxes. Thus, addition of small amounts of carnauba wax can be used to increase the melting and dripping point of another wax and reduce its stickiness. Furthermore, a number of wax mixtures, optionally in admixture with other additives, commercially available. Those under the designations "Spezialwachs 7686 OE" (a mixture of Cetylpalmitat, beeswax, microcrystalline wax and polyethylene with a melting range of 73-75 ° C, manufacturer: Kahl & Co), Polywax ^® GP 200 (a mixture of stearyl alcohol and polyethylene glycol stearate with a melting point of 47-51 ° C, manufacturer: Croda) and "Weichceresin ^® FL 400" (a petroleum jelly / vaseline oil / wax mixture with a melting point of 50-54 ° C. Manufacturer: Parafluid Mineralölgesellschaft) are examples of inventively preferred mixtures.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the waxes in amounts of from 10 to 60% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 10 to 55 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

The composition of the invention contains the water in an amount of 20 to 60 wt .-%, in particular from 25 to 50 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition.

• (A): Kosmetisches Mittel in Form einer Emulsion zur Behandlung keratinhaltiger Fasern (insbesondere menschlichem Haar) umfassend eine Wasserphase und eine Ölphase, wobei diese Mittel enthalten (a) mindestens ein anionisches, verdickend wirkendes Polymer enthaltend mindestens eine Struktureinheit ausgewählt aus mindestens einer Struktureinheit der Formel (P-I) oder deren Salzformen oder mindestens einer Struktureinheit (P-II) oder deren Salzformen,
  
  worin R¹ und R² stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe. und (b) mindestens ein nichtionisches, haarfestigendes Polymer ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus – Polyvinylpyrrolidon, – Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylestern von Carbonsäuren mit 2 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat, oder Gemische aus diesen Polymeren und (c) mindestens ein Esteröl ausgewählt aus mindestens einer Verbindung der Formel (ES-I) und/oder der Formel (ES-II)
  
  worin R⁶ steht für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₇)-Alkylgruppe, eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₇)-Alkylgruppe, eine (C₂ bis C₆)-Hydroxyalkylgruppe, eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₈)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₈)-Alkoxygruppe, R⁵ steht für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe, verzweigte (C₃ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe R⁷ und R⁸ stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₀)-Alkylgruppe oder eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₀)-Alkylgruppe, n für eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 6 steht. und (d) mindestens ein Wachs ausgewählt aus mindestens einem Wachs der Gruppe Bienenwachs (Cera Alba), Carnaubawachs, Candelillawachs, Montanwachs, mikrokristallines Wachs (insbesondere mikrokristallines Paraffinwachs) und Cetylpalmitat. und (e) Wasser.
• (B): Kosmetisches Mittel in Form einer Emulsion zur Behandlung keratinhaltiger Fasern (insbesondere menschlichem Haar) umfassend eine Wasserphase und eine Ölphase, wobei diese Mittel enthalten (a) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 5,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen, verdickend wirkenden Polymers und (b) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines nichtionischen, haarfestigenden Polymers und (c) 0,5 bis 30 Gew.-% mindestens eines Esteröls und (d) 10 bis 60 Gew.-% mindestens eines Wachses und (e) 20 bis 60 Gew.-% Wasser.
• (C): Kosmetisches Mittel in Form einer Emulsion zur Behandlung keratinhaltiger Fasern (insbesondere menschlichem Haar) umfassend eine Wasserphase und eine Ölphase, wobei diese Mittel enthalten (a) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 5,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen, verdickend wirkenden Polymers und (b) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines nichtionischen, haarfestigenden Polymers und (c) 1 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines Esteröls und (d) 10 bis 60 Gew.-% mindestens eines Wachses und (e) 30 bis 50 Gew.-% Wasser.
• (D): Kosmetisches Mittel in Form einer Emulsion zur Behandlung keratinhaltiger Fasern (insbesondere menschlichem Haar) umfassend eine Wasserphase und eine Ölphase, wobei diese Mittel enthalten (a) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 5,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen, verdickend wirkenden Polymers enthaltend mindestens eine Struktureinheit ausgewählt aus mindestens einer Struktureinheit der Formel (P-I) oder deren Salzformen oder mindestens einer Struktureinheit (P-II) oder deren Salzformen,
  
  worin R¹ und R² stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe. und (b) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines nichtionischen, haarfestigenden Polymers ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus – Polyvinylpyrrolidon, – Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylestern von Carbonsäuren mit 2 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat, oder Gemische aus diesen Polymeren und (c) 0,5 bis 30 Gew.-% mindestens eines Esteröls ausgewählt aus mindestens einer Verbindung der Formel (ES-I) und/oder der Formel (ES-II)
  
  worin R⁶ steht für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₇)-Alkylgruppe, eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₇)-Alkylgruppe, eine (C₂ bis C₆)-Hydroxyalkylgruppe, eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₈)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₈)-Alkoxygruppe, R⁵ steht für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe, verzweigte (C₃ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe R⁷ und R⁸ stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₀)-Alkylgruppe oder eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₀)-Alkylgruppe, n für eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 6 steht. und (d) 10 bis 60 Gew.-% mindestens eines Wachses ausgewählt aus mindestens einem Wachs der Gruppe Bienenwachs (Cera Alba), Carnaubawachs, Candelillawachs, Montanwachs, mikrokristallines Wachs (insbesondere mikrokristallines Paraffinwachs) und Cetylpalmitat. und (e) 20 bis 60 Gew.-% Wasser.
• (E): Kosmetisches Mittel in Form einer Emulsion zur Behandlung keratinhaltiger Fasern (insbesondere menschlichem Haar) umfassend eine Wasserphase und eine Ölphase, wobei diese Mittel enthalten (a) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 5,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines anionischen, verdickend wirkenden Polymers enthaltend mindestens eine Struktureinheit ausgewählt aus mindestens einer Struktureinheit der Formel (P-I) oder deren Salzformen oder mindestens einer Struktureinheit (P-II) oder deren Salzformen,
  
  worin R¹ und R² stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe. und (b) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines nichtionischen, haarfestigenden Polymers ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus – Polyvinylpyrrolidon, – Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylestern von Carbonsäuren mit 2 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat, oder Gemische aus diesen Polymeren und (c) 1 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines Esteröls ausgewählt aus mindestens einer Verbindung der Formel (ES-I) und/oder der Formel (ES-II)
  
  worin R⁶ steht für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₇)-Alkylgruppe, eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₇)-Alkylgruppe, eine (C₂ bis C₆)-Hydroxyalkylgruppe, eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₈)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₈)-Alkoxygruppe, R⁵ steht für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe, verzweigte (C₃ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe R⁷ und R⁸ stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₀)-Alkylgruppe oder eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₀)-Alkylgruppe, n für eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 6 steht. und (d) 10 bis 60 Gew.-% mindestens eines Wachses ausgewählt aus mindestens einem Wachs der Gruppe Bienenwachs (Cera Alba), Carnaubawachs, Candelillawachs, Montanwachs, mikrokristallines Wachs (insbesondere mikrokristallines Paraffinwachs) und Cetylpalmitat. und (e) 30 bis 50 Gew.-% Wasser.
• (F): Kosmetisches Mittel in Form einer Emulsion zur Behandlung keratinhaltiger Fasern (insbesondere menschlichem Haar) umfassend eine Wasserphase und eine Ölphase, wobei diese Mittel enthalten (a) mindestens ein in der Wasserphase befindliches, anionisches, verdickend wirkendes Polymer enthaltend mindestens eine Struktureinheit ausgewählt aus mindestens einer Struktureinheit der Formel (P-I) oder deren Salzformen oder mindestens einer Struktureinheit (P-II) oder deren Salzformen,
  
  worin R¹ und R² stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe. und (b) mindestens ein in der Wasserphase befindliches, nichtionisches, haarfestigendes Polymer ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus – Polyvinylpyrrolidon, – Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylestern von Carbonsäuren mit 2 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat, oder Gemische aus diesen Polymeren und (c) mindestens ein Esteröl ausgewählt aus mindestens einer Verbindung der Formel (ES-I) und/oder der Formel (ES-II)
  
  worin R⁶ steht für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₇)-Alkylgruppe, eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₇)-Alkylgruppe, eine (C₂ bis C₆)-Hydroxyalkylgruppe, eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₈)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₈)-Alkoxygruppe, R⁵ steht für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe, verzweigte (C₃ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe R⁷ und R⁸ stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₀)-Alkylgruppe oder eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₀)-Alkylgruppe, n für eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 6 steht. und (d) mindestens ein Wachs ausgewählt aus mindestens einem Wachs der Gruppe Bienenwachs (Cera Alba), Carnaubawachs, Candelillawachs, Montanwachs, mikrokristallines Wachs (insbesondere mikrokristallines Paraffinwachs) und Cetylpalmitat. und (e) Wasser.
• (G): Kosmetisches Mittel in Form einer Emulsion zur Behandlung keratinhaltiger Fasern (insbesondere menschlichem Haar) umfassend eine Wasserphase und eine Ölphase, wobei diese Mittel enthalten (a) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 5,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines in der Wasserphase befindlichen anionischen, verdickend wirkenden Polymers und (b) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines in der Wasserphase befindlichen nichtionischen, haarfestigenden Polymers und (c) 0,5 bis 30 Gew.-% mindestens eines Esteröls und (d) 10 bis 60 Gew.-% mindestens eines Wachses und (e) 20 bis 60 Gew.-% Wasser.
• (H): Kosmetisches Mittel zur Behandlung keratinhaltiger Fasern (insbesondere menschlichem Haar) umfassend eine Wasserphase und eine Ölphase, wobei diese Mittel enthalten (a) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 5,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines in der Wasserphase befindlichen anionischen, verdickend wirkenden Polymers und (b) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines in der Wasserphase befindlichen nichtionischen, haarfestigenden Polymers und (c) 1 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines Esteröls und (d) 10 bis 60 Gew.-% mindestens eines Wachses und (e) 30 bis 50 Gew.-% Wasser.
• (I): Kosmetisches Mittel in Form einer Emulsion zur Behandlung keratinhaltiger Fasern (insbesondere menschlichem Haar) umfassend eine Wasserphase und eine Ölphase, wobei diese Mittel enthalten (a) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 5,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines in der Wasserphase befindlichen anionischen, verdickend wirkenden Polymers enthaltend mindestens eine Struktureinheit ausgewählt aus mindestens einer Struktureinheit der Formel (P-I) oder deren Salzformen oder mindestens einer Struktureinheit (P-II) oder deren Salzformen,
  
  worin R¹ und R² stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe. und (b) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines in der Wasserphase befindlichen nichtionischen, haarfestigenden Polymers ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus – Polyvinylpyrrolidon, – Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylestern von Carbonsäuren mit 2 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat, oder Gemische aus diesen Polymeren und (c) 0,5 bis 30 Gew.-% mindestens eines Esteröls ausgewählt aus mindestens einer Verbindung der Formel (ES-I) und/oder der Formel (ES-II)
  
  worin R⁶ steht für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₇)-Alkylgruppe, eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₇)-Alkylgruppe, eine (C₂ bis C₆)-Hydroxyalkylgruppe, eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₈)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₈)-Alkoxygruppe, R⁵ steht für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe, verzweigte (C₃ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe R⁷ und R⁸ stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₀)-Alkylgruppe oder eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₀)-Alkylgruppe, n für eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 6 steht. und (d) 10 bis 60 Gew.-% mindestens eines Wachses ausgewählt aus mindestens einem Wachs der Gruppe Bienenwachs (Cera Alba), Carnaubawachs, Candelillawachs, Montanwachs, mikrokristallines Wachs (insbesondere mikrokristallines Paraffinwachs) und Cetylpalmitat. und (e) 20 bis 60 Gew.-% Wasser.
• (J): Kosmetisches Mittel in Form einer Emulsion zur Behandlung keratinhaltiger Fasern (insbesondere menschlichem Haar) umfassend eine Wasserphase und eine Ölphase, wobei diese Mittel enthalten (a) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 5,0 Gew.-% mindestens eines in der Wasserphase befindlichen anionischen, verdickend wirkenden Polymers enthaltend mindestens eine Struktureinheit ausgewählt aus mindestens einer Struktureinheit der Formel (P-I) oder deren Salzformen oder mindestens einer Struktureinheit (P-II) oder deren Salzformen,
  
  worin R¹ und R² stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe. und (b) 0,01 Gew.-% bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines in der Wasserphase befindlichen nichtionischen, haarfestigenden Polymers ausgewählt aus der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus – Polyvinylpyrrolidon, – Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylestern von Carbonsäuren mit 2 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat, oder Gemische aus diesen Polymeren und (c) 1 bis 20 Gew.-% mindestens eines Esteröls ausgewählt aus mindestens einer Verbindung der Formel (ES-I) und/oder der Formel (ES-II)
  
  worin R⁶ steht für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₇)-Alkylgruppe, eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₇)-Alkylgruppe, eine (C₂ bis C₆)-Hydroxyalkylgruppe, eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₈)-Alkoxygruppe oder eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₈)-Alkoxygruppe, R⁵ steht für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe, verzweigte (C₃ bis C₂₀)-Alkylgruppe R⁷ und R⁸ stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine lineare (C₃ bis C₁₀)-Alkylgruppe oder eine verzweigte (C₃ bis C₁₀)-Alkylgruppe, n für eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 6 steht. und (d) 10 bis 60 Gew.-% mindestens eines Wachses ausgewählt aus mindestens einem Wachs der Gruppe Bienenwachs (Cera Alba), Carnaubawachs, Candelillawachs, Montanwachs, mikrokristallines Wachs (insbesondere mikrokristallines Paraffinwachs) und Cetylpalmitat. und (e) 30 bis 50 Gew.-% Wasser.

Preferred cosmetic agents are those of the embodiments (A) to (???)

• (A): Cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion for treating keratin-containing fibers (especially human hair) comprising a water phase and an oil phase, said compositions containing (a) at least one anionic, thickening polymer containing at least one structural unit selected from at least one structural unit of Formula (PI) or its salt forms or at least one structural unit (P-II) or salt forms thereof,
  
  wherein R ¹ and R ² independently represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group. and (b) at least one nonionic, hair setting polymer selected from the group consisting of - polyvinylpyrrolidone, - copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, especially N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, or mixtures thereof polymers and (c) at least one ester oil selected from at least one compound of the formula (ES-I) and / or of the formula (ES-II)
  
  in which R ⁶ stands for a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group, a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) Alkoxy group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) alkoxy, R ⁵ is a linear (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group, branched (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group R ⁷ and R ⁸ are independently one a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) alkyl group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) alkyl group, n is an integer from 2 to 6. and (d) at least one wax selected from at least one wax of the group beeswax (Cera Alba), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax (especially microcrystalline paraffin wax) and cetyl palmitate. and (e) water.
• (B): A cosmetic agent in the form of an emulsion for treating keratin-containing fibers (especially human hair) comprising a water phase and an oil phase, said agents containing (a) 0.01% to 5.0% by weight of at least one anionic, thickening polymer and (b) from 0.01% to 20% by weight of at least one nonionic, hair setting polymer; and (c) from 0.5 to 30% by weight of at least one ester oil and (d) from 10 to 60% by weight of at least one wax and (e) 20 to 60% by weight of water.
• (C): A cosmetic agent in the form of an emulsion for treating keratinous fibers (especially human hair) comprising a water phase and an oil phase, said compositions containing (a) 0.01% to 5.0% by weight of at least one anionic, thickening polymer and (b) from 0.01% to 20% by weight of at least one nonionic, hair setting polymer; and (c) from 1 to 20% by weight of at least one ester oil and (d) from 10 to 60% by weight .-% of at least one wax and (e) 30 to 50 wt .-% water.
• (D): A cosmetic agent in the form of an emulsion for treating keratin-containing fibers (especially human hair) comprising a water phase and an oil phase, said compositions containing (a) 0.01% to 5.0% by weight of at least one anionic, thickening polymer comprising at least one structural unit selected from at least one structural unit of the formula (PI) or salt forms thereof or at least one structural unit (P-II) or salt forms thereof,
  
  wherein R ¹ and R ² independently represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group. and (b) from 0.01% to 20% by weight of at least one nonionic, hair setting polymer selected from the group consisting of - polyvinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of N-vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular from N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, or mixtures of these polymers and (c) from 0.5 to 30% by weight of at least one ester oil selected from at least one compound of the formula (ES-I) and / or of the formula (ES-II )
  
  in which R ⁶ stands for a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group, a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) Alkoxy group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) alkoxy, R ⁵ is a linear (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group, branched (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group R ⁷ and R ⁸ are independently one a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) alkyl group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) alkyl group, n is an integer from 2 to 6. and (d) 10 to 60% by weight of at least one wax selected from at least one wax of the group beeswax (Cera Alba), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax (especially microcrystalline paraffin wax) and cetyl palmitate. and (e) 20 to 60% by weight of water.
• (E): A cosmetic agent in the form of an emulsion for treating keratinous fibers (especially human hair) comprising a water phase and an oil phase, said compositions containing (a) 0.01% to 5.0% by weight of at least one anionic, thickening polymer comprising at least one structural unit selected from at least one structural unit of the formula (PI) or salt forms thereof or at least one structural unit (P-II) or salt forms thereof,
  
  wherein R ¹ and R ² independently represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group. and (b) from 0.01% to 20% by weight of at least one nonionic, hair setting polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of N-vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having from 2 to 18 carbon atoms , in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, or mixtures of these polymers and (c) 1 to 20% by weight of at least one ester oil selected from at least one compound of the formula (ES-I) and / or of the formula (ES-II)
  
  in which R ⁶ stands for a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group, a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) Alkoxy group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) alkoxy, R ⁵ is a linear (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group, branched (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group R ⁷ and R ⁸ are independently one a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) alkyl group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) alkyl group, n is an integer from 2 to 6. and (d) 10 to 60% by weight of at least one wax selected from at least one wax of the group beeswax (Cera Alba), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax (especially microcrystalline paraffin wax) and cetyl palmitate. and (e) 30 to 50% by weight of water.
• (F): Cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion for treating keratin-containing fibers (especially human hair) comprising a water phase and an oil phase, said compositions containing (a) at least one aqueous phase anionic thickening polymer containing at least one structural unit selected from at least one structural unit of the formula (PI) or their salt forms or at least one structural unit (P-II) or their salt forms,
  
  wherein R ¹ and R ² independently represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group. and (b) at least one non-ionic, hair-setting polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate or mixtures of these polymers and (c) at least one ester oil selected from at least one compound of the formula (ES-I) and / or of the formula (ES-II)
  
  in which R ⁶ stands for a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group, a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) Alkoxy group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) alkoxy, R ⁵ is a linear (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group, branched (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group R ⁷ and R ⁸ are independently one a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) alkyl group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) alkyl group, n is an integer from 2 to 6. and (d) at least one wax selected from at least one wax of the group beeswax (Cera Alba), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax (especially microcrystalline paraffin wax) and cetyl palmitate. and (e) water.
• (G): A cosmetic agent in the form of an emulsion for treating keratin-containing fibers (especially human hair) comprising a water phase and an oil phase, said compositions containing (a) 0.01% to 5.0% by weight of at least one and (b) from 0.01% to 20% by weight of at least one nonionic, hair setting polymer in the water phase, and (c) from 0.5 to 30% by weight, at least, of the anionic, thickening polymer an ester oil; and (d) 10 to 60% by weight of at least one wax and (e) 20 to 60% by weight of water.
• (H): A cosmetic agent for treating keratin-containing fibers (especially human hair) comprising a water phase and an oil phase, said agents containing (a) 0.01% to 5.0% by weight of at least one in the water phase anionic, thickening polymer; and (b) from 0.01% to 20% by weight of at least one non-ionic, hair-setting polymer in the water phase; and (c) from 1 to 20% by weight of at least one ester oil and (d) 10 to 60 wt .-% of at least one wax and (e) 30 to 50 wt .-% water.
• (I): A cosmetic agent in the form of an emulsion for treating keratin-containing fibers (especially human hair) comprising a water phase and an oil phase, said agents containing (a) 0.01% to 5.0% by weight of at least one anionic, thickening polymer in the water phase containing at least one structural unit selected from at least one structural unit of the formula (PI) or its salt forms or at least one structural unit (P-II) or salt forms thereof,
  
  wherein R ¹ and R ² independently represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group. and (b) from 0.01% to 20% by weight of at least one water phase nonionic, hair setting polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, or mixtures of these polymers and (c) 0.5 to 30 wt .-% of at least one ester oil selected from at least one compound of formula (ES-I) and / or Formula (ES-II)
  
  in which R ⁶ stands for a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group, a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) Alkoxy group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) alkoxy, R ⁵ is a linear (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group, branched (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group R ⁷ and R ⁸ are independently one a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) alkyl group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) alkyl group, n is an integer from 2 to 6. and (d) 10 to 60% by weight of at least one wax selected from at least one wax of the group beeswax (Cera Alba), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax (especially microcrystalline paraffin wax) and cetyl palmitate. and (e) 20 to 60% by weight of water.
• (J): A cosmetic agent in the form of an emulsion for treating keratinous fibers (especially human hair) comprising a water phase and an oil phase, said compositions containing (a) 0.01% to 5.0% by weight of at least one anionic, thickening polymer in the water phase containing at least one structural unit selected from at least one structural unit of the formula (PI) or its salt forms or at least one structural unit (P-II) or salt forms thereof,
  
  wherein R ¹ and R ² independently represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group. and (b) from 0.01% to 20% by weight of at least one water phase nonionic, hair setting polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone, copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, or mixtures of these polymers and (c) 1 to 20 wt .-% of at least one ester oil selected from at least one compound of formula (ES-I) and / or the formula ( ES-II)
  
  in which R ⁶ stands for a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group, a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) Alkoxy group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) alkoxy, R ⁵ is a linear (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group, branched (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group R ⁷ and R ⁸ are independently one a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) alkyl group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) alkyl group, n is an integer from 2 to 6. and (d) 10 to 60% by weight of at least one wax selected from at least one wax of the group beeswax (Cera Alba), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax (especially microcrystalline paraffin wax) and cetyl palmitate. and (e) 30 to 50% by weight of water.

It is inventively preferred if the agent additionally contains at least one (C ₂ to C ₆ ) polyol. (C ₂ to C ₆ ) polyols according to the invention contain at least 2 hydroxyl groups. It is inventively preferred when the (C ₂ to C ₆ ) polyol at 25 ° C and a pressure of 1 atm is a liquid.

The polyols are preferably selected from at least one polyol from the group of glycerol, 1,2-ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, butane-2,3-diol, 2-methyl-2,4-butanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1,2,4-pentanetriol, 1,3,4-pentanediol, 1,3,5-pentanetriol. With very particular preference the agents according to the invention contain glycerol as polyol.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain the (C ₂ to C ₆ ) polyols (preferably glycerol) in an amount of from 0.5% by weight to 15.0% by weight, particularly preferably by 1.0% by weight. % to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention are in the form of an emulsion and preferably additionally comprise at least one surfactant, nonionic, anionic, cationic and ampholytic surfactants being suitable in principle. The group of ampholytic or amphoteric surfactants includes zwitterionic surfactants and ampholytes. The surfactants according to the invention may already have emulsifying activity.

The additional surfactants are in the inventive composition preferably in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the Weight of the agent, included.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 100 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Procetyl AWS (Croda),
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP. (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (E4-I) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³ (E4-I) in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, wie sie beispielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (E4-II), R⁴O-[G]_p (E4-II) in der R⁴ für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Sie können nach den einschlägigen Verfahren der präparativen organischen Chemie erhalten werden. Die Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside können sich von Aldosen bzw. Ketosen mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, vorzugsweise von Glucose, ableiten. Die bevorzugten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside sind somit Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglucoside. Die Indexzahl p in der allgemeinen Formel (E4-II) gibt den Oligomerisierungsgrad (DP), d. h. die Verteilung von Mono- und Oligoglykosiden an und steht für eine Zahl zwischen 1 und 10. Während p im einzelnen Molekül stets ganzzahlig sein muß und hier vor allem die Werte p = 1 bis 6 annehmen kann, ist der Wert p für ein bestimmtes Alkyloligoglykosid eine analytisch ermittelte rechnerische Größe, die meistens eine gebrochene Zahl darstellt. Vorzugsweise werden Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside mit einem mittleren Oligomerisierungsgrad p von 1,1 bis 3,0 eingesetzt. Aus anwendungstechnischer Sicht sind solche Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyloligoglykoside bevorzugt, deren Oligomerisierungsgrad kleiner als 1,7 ist und insbesondere zwischen 1,2 und 1,4 liegt. Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R⁴ kann sich von primären Alkoholen mit 4 bis 11, vorzugsweise 8 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Butanol, Capronalkohol, Caprylalkohol, Caprinalkohol und Undecylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen, wie sie beispielsweise bei der Hydrierung von technischen Fettsäuremethylestern oder im Verlauf der Hydrierung von Aldehyden aus der Roelen'schen Oxosynthese erhalten werden. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside der Kettenlänge C₈-C₁₀ (DP = 1 bis 3), die als Vorlauf bei der destillativen Auftrennung von technischem C₈-C₁₈-Kokosfettalkohol anfallen und mit einem Anteil von weniger als 6 Gew.-% C₁₂-Alkohol verunreinigt sein können sowie Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis technischer C_9/11-Oxoalkohole (DP = 1 bis 3). Der Alkyl- bzw. Alkenylrest R¹⁵ kann sich ferner auch von primären Alkoholen mit 12 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 14 Kohlenstoffatomen ableiten. Typische Beispiele sind Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol, Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Gemische, die wie oben beschrieben erhalten werden können. Bevorzugt sind Alkyloligoglucoside auf Basis von gehärtetem C_12/14-Kokosalkohol mit einem DP von 1 bis 3.
• – nichtionische Tenside auf Silikonbasis, insbesondere aus der Gruppe der Dimethiconcopolyole die bevorzugt alkoxyliert, insbesondere polyethoxyliert oder polypropoxyliert sind. Unter den Dimethiconcopolyolen werden als nichtionisches Tensid erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt Polyoxyalkylen-modifizierte Dimethylpolysiloxane der allgemeinen Formeln (E4-V) oder (E4-VI) eingesetzt:
  

worin

• – der Rest R steht für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Alkylgruppe mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen, eine Alkoxygruppe mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen oder eine Hydroxylgruppe,
• – die Reste R' und R'' bedeuten Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 12 C-Atomen,
• – x steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 100, bevorzugt von 20 bis 30,
• – y steht für eine ganze Zahl von 1 bis 20, bevorzugt von 2 bis 10 und
• – a und b stehen für ganze Zahlen von 0 bis 50, bevorzugt von 10 bis 30.

It is particularly preferred according to the invention for the preparation of the emulsion to add at least one nonionic agent to the composition according to the invention. Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group, such as the commercial product Procetyl AWS (Croda),
• - With a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl radical endgruppenverschlossene addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - Polyol fatty acid esters, such as the commercial product Hydagen ^® HSP. (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• - Hydroxymischether, as described for example in the DE-OS 19738866 are described
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), R ⁴ O- [G] _p (E4-II) in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Preference is given to using alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides having an average degree of oligomerization p of from 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) which are obtained as a feedstock in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C ₁₂ - Alcohol may be contaminated as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C _12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3.
• Silicone-based nonionic surfactants, in particular from the group of dimethicone copolyols which are preferably alkoxylated, in particular polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated. Among the dimethicone copolyols, particularly preferred polyoxyalkylene-modified dimethylpolysiloxanes of the general formulas (E4-V) or (E4-VI) are used as the nonionic surfactant according to the invention:
  

wherein

• The radical R is a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group having 1 to 12 C atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 12 C atoms or a hydroxyl group,
• The radicals R 'and R "represent alkyl groups having 1 to 12 C atoms,
• X is an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 20 to 30,
• Y is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10 and
• A and b are integers from 0 to 50, preferably from 10 to 30.

Particularly preferred dimethicone copolyols according to the invention are, for example, the products sold commercially under the trade name SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation) and DOW CORNING (Dow).

Dimethicone copolyols particularly preferred according to the invention are Dow Corning 190 and Dow Corning 193 Fluid (Dow Corning).

As very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants, the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have been found. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)-OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (E1-I),
  
  in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR¹ oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁶R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C1 bis C4-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel (E1-II) R⁷CO(AlkO)_nSO₃M (E1-II) in der R⁷CO- für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht, wie sie in der DE-OS 197 36 906 beschrieben sind,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (E1-III)
  
  in der R⁸CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Olsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (E1-III) eingesetzt, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht,
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus C₈-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen mit Proteinhydrolysaten und/oder Aminosäuren und deren Derivaten, welche dem Fachmann als Eiweissfettsäurekondensate bekannt sind, wie beispielsweise die Lamepon^®-Typen, Gluadin^®-Typen, Hostapon^® KCG oder die Amisoft^®-Typen.

Suitable anionic surfactants are in principle all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of hydroxysulfonates,
• Sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene glycol ethers,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),
  
  in the R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ¹ or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal radical or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁶ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ¹ to C ⁴ hydrocarbon radical,
• Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E1-II) R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (E1-II) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n for numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M stands for a cation, as in the DE-OS 197 36 906 are described
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III)
  
  in which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z are in total 0 or numbers of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
• - amide ether carboxylic acids,
• - condensation products of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols with protein hydrolysates and / or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the skilled person as protein fatty acid condensates, such as Lamepon ^® grades, Gluadin ^® grades, Hostapon ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® grades ,

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerdisulfate, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and Eiweissfettsäurekondensate.

Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example the Kokosaikyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosacylaminopropyl-dimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and also the cocoacylaminoethythydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytes are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytes are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms. Atoms in the alkyl group. Especially preferred Ampholytes are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

As additional co-solvents may be included organic solvents or a mixture of solvents having a boiling point below 400 ° C in an amount of 0.1 to 15 weight percent, preferably from 1 to 10 weight percent based on the total agent. Particularly suitable as additional co-solvents are propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, unbranched or branched hydrocarbons such as pentane, hexane, isopentane and cyclic hydrocarbons such as cyclopentane and cyclohexane.

The agents preferably have a pH of from 2 to 8. The pH range between 4 and 7 is particularly preferred. The information on the pH value in the context of this document refers to the pH at 25 ° C., unless stated otherwise.

As pH-adjusting agents, preference is given according to the invention to acids and / or alkalizing agents. As acids according to the invention preferably mineral acids (such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid or phosphoric acid) or edible acids (such as citric acid, tartaric acid or malic acid) are used. The alkalizing agents usable in the present invention are preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonia, basic amino acids, alkali hydroxides, alkanolamines, alkali metal metasilicates, urea, morpholine, N-methylglucamine, imidazole, alkali phosphates and alkali hydrogen phosphates. The alkali metal ions used are preferably lithium, sodium, potassium, in particular sodium or potassium.

Furthermore, the agents according to the invention preferably additionally contain at least one alkanolamine.

Alkanolamines which are preferred according to the invention are preferably selected from primary amines having a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1 -Aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol , 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol. Very particularly preferred alkanolamines according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethane-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.

The compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling agents.

As suitable auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned.

As a care substance of another class of compounds, the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. Furthermore, according to the invention, polymers made up of amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood by the term protein hydrolyzates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine, etc. Further examples of compounds which can be used according to the invention are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, β-amino acids and their derivatives such as β-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can also be used according to the invention. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Sericin sold (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda).

Particularly interesting is the use of silk protein hydrolysates. By silk one understands the fibers of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). The raw silk fiber consists of a double thread fibroin. As a cement substance, sericin holds this double thread together. Silk consists of 70-80% by weight of fibroin, 19-28% by weight of sericin, 0.5-1% by weight of fat and 0.5-1% by weight of dyes and mineral constituents.

Protein hydrolysates of vegetable origin, eg. As soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), DiaMin ^® (Diamalt), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), Hydrolupin ^® (Croda) , hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda), Crosilk ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers.

According to the invention it is also possible to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates.

The protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.

As a care substance, the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.

According to the invention, such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.

The addition of panthenol increases the flexibility of the polymer film formed using the composition of the invention. Thus, if a particularly flexible hold is desired, the compositions of the invention may additionally contain panthenol. In a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention contain panthenol, preferably in an amount of 0.05 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-5% by weight, in each case based on the total agent.

As a conditioner, the compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract.

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

With regard to the plant extracts preferred according to the invention, particular reference is made to the extracts which are described on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the guideline for the ingredient declaration of cosmetic products, issued by the Industrial Association for Personal Care and Detergents e. V. (IKW), Frankfurt, starting table are listed.

According to the invention, especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, Spruce Needle, Horse Chestnut, Sandalwood, Juniper, Coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Thyme, Melissa, Hominy, Coltsfoot, Marshmallow, Meristem, ginseng and ginger root preferred.

As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. be used. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2-80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as a care substance in the compositions according to the invention.

Both monosaccharides and oligosaccharides, such as cane sugar, lactose and raffinose, can be used. The use of monosaccharides is preferred according to the invention. Among the monosaccharides, in turn, those compounds which contain 5 or 6 carbon atoms are preferred. Suitable pentoses and hexoses are, for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fucose and fructose. Arabinose, glucose, galactose and fructose are preferably used carbohydrates; Very particular preference is given to using glucose which is suitable both in the D - (+) or L - (-) configuration or as a racemate. Furthermore, derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses, such as the corresponding on- and uronic acids (sugar acids), sugar alcohols and glycosides, can also be used according to the invention. Preferred sugars are gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, sugar acid, mannose and mucic acid. Preferred sugar alcohols are sorbitol, mannitol and dulcitol. Preferred glycosides are the methylglucosides.

Since the mono- or oligosaccharides used are usually obtained from natural raw materials such as starch, they usually have the configurations corresponding to these raw materials (eg D-glucose, D-fructose and D-galactose). The mono- or oligosaccharides are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

The agent may further contain at least one lipid as a care substance. Lipids suitable according to the invention are phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and also the substances known under the INCI names linoleic amidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid ^EFA® , Phospholipid ^PTC® and Phospholipid ^SV® .

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the lipids in amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, in particular 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

By adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Preferably, therefore, at least one UV filter is added to the agent. The suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

The UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the treated keratin fiber not only to be temporarily patterned when the agent is applied, but also dyed at the same time. This may be particularly desirable if only a temporary dyeing is desired, for example, with eye-catching fashion colors, which can be removed again by simple washing from the keratinic fiber.

Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) -aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) - amino-5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carbo acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

• (a) kationische Triphenylmethanfarbstoffe, wie beispielsweise Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 und Basic Violet 14,
• (b) aromatischen Systeme, die mit einer quaternären Stickstoffgruppe substituiert sind, wie beispielsweise Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 und Basic Brown 17, sowie
• (c) direktziehende Farbstoffe, die einen Heterocyclus enthalten, der mindestens ein quaternäres Stickstoffatom aufweist, wie sie beispielsweise in der EP-A2-998 908 , auf die an dieser Stelle explizit Bezug genommen wird, in den Ansprüchen 6 bis 11 genannt werden.

Preference is given to using cationic substantive dyes. Particularly preferred are

• (a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,
• (b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
• (C) direct dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as described for example in the EP-A2-998 908 to which reference is made at this point, are called in the claims 6 to 11.

The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.

The agents according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

Furthermore, the agents of the invention may also contain naturally occurring dyes such as red henna, henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, sawnwood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkano root.

With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.

Within the scope of a further embodiment, the agents according to the invention are preferably in the form of a cream.

The cream-form compositions according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of 10,000 to 500,000 mPas, more preferably of 30,000 to 300,000 mPas (measured in each case with Brookfield RVDV II + with Heilpath, spindle T-E, 5 rpm, 20 ° C.).

A second subject of the invention is the use of the inventive compositions of the first subject of the invention for the temporary deformation of hair.

The compositions according to the invention and products which contain these agents, in particular hair gels or hair creams, are distinguished, in particular, by giving the treated hair a very strong, permanent hairstyle hold without polymer plaques or wax plaques forming on the hair. The hair stays flexible and can be remodeled. When compounded as a cream, it has a creamy, non-sticky consistency. The cream can be distributed evenly and without dripping on the hair.

It is inventively preferred to use the agent of the first subject of the invention as a leave-on hair treatment agent.

A third aspect of the invention is a method for treating keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein the agent according to the invention of the first subject of the invention is applied to the keratin-containing fibers.

It is inventively preferred if the keratin-containing fibers are brought into shape before, during or after the application of the agent according to the invention.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention, in the context of the method according to the invention, not to rinse out the agent according to the invention from the keratin-containing fibers.

• (i) die Haare vor Beginn der Remodellierung trocken sind und bereits eine durch mindestens ein Mittel des ersten Erfindungsgegenstandes fixierte Form aufweisen,
• (ii) diese Haare in eine neue Form gebracht werden und
• (iii) diese neue Form durch das bereits vor der Remodellierung auf dem Haar befindliche Polymer erneut fixiert wird,

mit der Maßgabe, dass zur Fixierung gemäß (iii) keine Applikation eines weiteren kosmetischen Mittels, enthaltend mindestens ein festigendes Polymer erfolgt.A fourth object of the invention is a method of remodeling hairdressed hair, wherein

• (i) the hair is dry before the beginning of remodeling and already has a shape fixed by at least one agent of the first subject of the invention,
• (ii) these hairs are reshaped and
• (iii) this new form is refixed by the polymer already on the hair prior to remodeling,

with the proviso that for fixing according to (iii) there is no application of a further cosmetic agent containing at least one setting polymer.

It is inventively possible that the shaping according to (ii) using heat in a temperature range of 45 ° C to 200 ° C, in particular from 55 ° C to 160 ° C, takes place. The shaping can be done using appropriately tempered air, for example by means of hair dryer or curling iron, or with the help of appropriately tempered flat iron.

The hair can be moistened with a liquid immediately before the remodeling step. This is particularly advantageous if the hair is to be wound for forming on forming aids (eg curlers) and this process is to be facilitated. If forming aids are used, then it is again preferable to apply heat as long as the hairs are on the forming aids. Then the forming aids are carefully removed.

In this case, the embodiments mentioned in the first subject of the invention are likewise preferred with regard to the cosmetic agent used.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without limiting it in any way.

Examples

Unless otherwise stated, the following quantities are by weight.

The cosmetic product E1 was prepared according to the following table: E1 1,2-propanediol 1.50 polyacrylic acid 0.10 Weichceresin FL 400 ¹ 9.00 carnauba 5.00 beeswax 10.50 Paracera W 80 ² 1.30 Ceraphyl ODS ³ 3.00 Schercemol CO ester ⁴ 7.00 stearyl 1.00 DOW CORNING 556 ⁵ 1.50 PVP / VA 60/40 W ⁶ 12,00 2-amino-2-methylpropanol 0.25 Neolone PE ⁷ 0.60 Edenor L2SM ⁸ 5.00 Procetyl AWS ⁹ 1.00 Brij S 721 ¹⁰ 2.00 Perfume 0.70 Water, demineralized ad 100 ¹ paraffin wax with a melting range from 51 to 55 ° C (white solid, INCI name: Petrolatum) (Sasol)
² microcrystalline paraffin wax (white solid, melting range 76 to 81 ° C) (Paramelt BV)
³ 2-octyldodecyl stearate (INCI name: octyldodecyl stearate) (ISP)
⁴ 2-Ethylhexanoic acid cetyl ester (INCI name: Cetyl ethylhexanoate) (Lubrizole)
⁵ polyphenylmethylsiloxane (INCI name: phenyl trimethicone) (Dow Corning)
⁶ Copolymer of vinyl acetate and N-vinylpyrrolidone in a ratio of 40:60 (50% active substance in water, INCI name: VP / VA copolymer) (BASF)
⁷ 2-Methyl-2H-isothiazolin-3-ones (about 1.55% in 2-phenoxyethanol, INCI name: phenoxyethanol, methylisothiazolinone) (Rohm & Haas)
⁸ mixture of palmitic acid and stearic acid (INCI name: Palmitic Acid, Stearic acid) (Cognis)
⁹ ethoxylated and propoxylated hexadecanol (20 EO + 5 PO) (INCI name: PPG-5-Ceteth-20) (Croda)
¹⁰ stearyl alcohol modified with 21 units of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Steareth-21) (Croda)

The medium E1 had a creamy texture, spread well on the hair and caused a good hair setting. The resulting styling could be remodeled.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• DE 19738866 A [0091]
• DE 19736906 A [0096]
• EP 998908 A2 [0138]

Claims (15)

Cosmetic compositions in the form of an emulsion for treating keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, comprising a water phase and an oil phase, these containing agents (a) at least one anionic, thickening polymer and (b) at least one nonionic, hair setting polymer and (c) at least one ester oil and (d) at least one wax and (e) water. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the anionic, thickening polymers in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 3.0 wt. -%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 2.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition according to the invention are included. Agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the anionic, thickening polymer is present in the aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition according to the invention. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the anionic, thickening polymer contains at least one structural unit selected from at least one structural unit of the formula (PI) or salt forms or at least one structural unit (P-II) or salt forms thereof,

wherein R ¹ and R ² independently represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the nonionic, hair-setting polymers in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 15 wt. %, most preferably from 2.0 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition, are included. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the nonionic, hair-fixing polymer is present in the water phase. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that as hair-fixing nonionic polymer at least one polymer selected from the group which is formed from - polyvinylpyrrolidone, Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, or mixtures of these polymers. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the ester oils are contained in an amount of 0.5 to 30 wt .-%, in particular from 1 to 20 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the ester oil is selected from at least one compound of the formula (ES-I) and / or the formula (ES-II)

in which R ⁶ stands for a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₇ ) -alkyl group, a (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -hydroxyalkyl group, a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) Alkoxy group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₈ ) alkoxy, R ⁵ is a linear (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group, branched (C ₃ to C ₂₀ ) alkyl group R ⁷ and R ⁸ are independently one a linear (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) alkyl group or a branched (C ₃ to C ₁₀ ) alkyl group, n is an integer from 2 to 6. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the waxes in amounts of 10 to 60 wt .-%, based on the total agent are included. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises at least one wax selected from at least one wax of the group beeswax (Cera Alba), carnauba wax, candelilla wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax (in particular microcrystalline paraffin wax), cetyl palmitate. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one surfactant, in particular at least one nonionic surfactant. Use of an agent according to at least one of claims 1 to 12 for the temporary deformation of hair and / or hair care. Process for the treatment of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, wherein an agent according to at least one of claims 1 to 12 is applied to the keratin-containing fibers. Method for remodeling hairdrous head hair, wherein (i) the hair is dry before the start of remodeling and has a shape fixed by an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 12, (ii) these hairs are reshaped and (iii) this new form is refixed by the polymer already on the hair prior to remodeling, with the proviso that for fixing according to (iii) there is no application of a further cosmetic agent containing at least one setting polymer.