DE102011077420A1 - Use of dialkylsulfone for improving the condition e.g. hardening, strengthening and restructuring of hairs, preventing and reducing hair splittings and increasing the glossiness, volume, combability, firmness and elasticity of the hair - Google Patents

Abstract

Use of at least one (2-5C)-dialkylsulfone (I) for improving the condition of hairs, is claimed. An independent claim is included for a cosmetic agent (A) comprising 0.1-40 wt.% of (I) in a carrier.

Description

The present invention is the use of an agent containing at least one (C ₂ to C ₅ ) dialkylsulfone for improving the hair condition, in particular for sealing, curing, gloss improvement, strengthening, protection and structure improvement (restructuring) of human hair, preferably of damaged human hair.

The damage of hair by environmental influences (for example high-energy radiation), the physiological status (for example age or health of the individuals concerned) or mechanical and chemical effects are known. The consequences are adverse mechanical, chemical and physical properties of the affected hair. Such damage to the structure of hair is manifested, for example, by loss of hardness, gloss, strength, breaking strength, tear strength, bundle tensile strength and color retention. On human hair, such influences are noticeable in particular due to the lack of gloss, reduced tear strength and poor combability. They are caused by aging processes, which are primarily physiological or induced by physical (weathering), mechanical (combing, brushing, terrying) and chemical influences. For longer hair, these effects are noticeable especially in the hair tips (split ends). The chemical influences include, in particular, bleaching, oxidative dyeing and perming of the hair, aggressive oxidizing or reducing agents moreover preferably being used in a strongly alkaline medium and exhibiting their full effect there.

Another problem is with hair straightening, especially when the hair is smoothed with a hot iron. Here, the structure of the keratin-containing fiber changes in the heat treatment of the hair during the smoothing. This change in fiber structure should be counteracted by appropriate measures. In general, the known forming methods, especially in the case of smoothing, have the disadvantage that the keratin-containing fiber is charged electrostatically. In addition, the deformation result of the known methods in terms of the degree of deformation and the uniformity of the deformation is in need of improvement. When an improvement in the degree of deformation is achieved, this is usually accompanied by an increased damage to the keratin-containing fiber.

It is therefore customary to protect the hair by suitable care and protection products from environmental influences and in particular from stressful treatments.

In particular, in the hair straightening but raises the problem that in addition to the protection of the hair and the durability of the result must be given.

The object underlying the present invention was to provide an agent, in particular a cosmetic hair treatment composition for use for improving the hair condition and effective protection or sealing, which eliminates the aforementioned disadvantages and in particular improves and extends the smoothing result in hair straightening, preferably beyond a hair wash.

According to the invention, these objects are achieved by the use of at least one (C ₂ to C ₅ ) dialkylsulfone for improving the condition of hair.

The improvement of the condition of the hair preferably consists in one or more of the properties hardening, strengthening, sealing (especially after hair dyeing or tinting), restructuring, repair, stabilization, increase of gloss, volume and combability, protection against environmental influences, heat protection (when blow-drying and straightening with a hot iron), prolonging the hair straightening durability, avoiding and reducing hair splitting, shortening the drying time of the hair, increasing the elasticity and elasticity of the hair and the durability of the perm. According to preferred uses according to the invention are characterized in that the improvement of the condition of the hair in the curing, strengthening, sealing (especially after hair dyeing or tinting), restructuring, repair, stabilization, increase gloss, volume and combability, the protection against environmental influences heat protection (when ironing and straightening with a hot iron), prolonging the hair straightening durability, avoiding and reducing hair splitting, shortening the drying time of the hair, increasing the elasticity and elasticity of the hair and the durability of the perm ,

Surprisingly, it has been found that the use of certain (C ₂ to C ₅ ) dialkylsulfones described below alters the hair structure as a whole, but especially the surface of hair, such that protection, hardening, sealing and strengthening as well as increasing the breaking strength Tear resistance or bundle tensile strength, in particular the strained and damaged hair done.

In addition to the care effect described below, which results from the influence of the hair surface (cuticle), there was also a repair effect. This is due to changes in the interior of the hair (cortex). The tensile forces were measured, which cause oxidative hair (caused by bleaching) to break. Surprisingly, it was found that those hair; which had been treated after oxidative degradation with a (C ₂ to C ₅ ) dialkylsulfone-containing agent described herein, had a significant increase in the forces necessary for cracking.

Associated with this, not only a repair of damaged hair is made possible, but also a protective effect, which counteracts damage of these materials before or after exposure to corresponding noxious substances and can prevent or reduce them.

In addition to these adverse changes caused by exogenous noxious agents, the agent according to the invention can also have beneficial effects on conditions caused by physiological processes or changes in the structure of hair; For example, with age-related brittle hair or fine hair, which may be acquired congenital or age-dependent (baby hair, old-age hair).

The (C ₂ to C ₅ ) dialkylsulfones used according to the invention obey the formula (I) R-SO ₂ -R (I) wherein R is a (C ₂ to C ₅ ) alkyl radical.

Preference is given according to the invention to diethylsulfone, di (n-propyl) sulfone, diisopropylsulfone, di (n-butyl) sulfone, di (sec-butyl) sulfone, di (isobutyl) sulfone, di (n-pentyl) sulfone, di ( Pentan-2-yl) sulfone, di (pentan-3-yl) sulfone, di (2-methyl-1-butan-1-yl) sulfone, di (2-methyl-2-butan-2-yl) sulfone, di (3) Methylbutan-1-yl) sulfone, di (3-methyl-butan-2-yl) sulfone, and di (2,2-dimethyl-1-propanyl) sulfone. Very particularly preferred according to the invention is diethylsulfone.

It is inventively preferred if the use according to the invention as heat protection in the transformation keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair in the context of a heat-assisted transformation keratinhaltiger fibers. Thus, it is again particularly preferred to use at least one (C ₂ to C ₅ ) dialkylsulfone as a heat protection agent in the heat-assisted transformation of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair). In this case, the use of diethylsulfone is again preferred. As a heat source is preferably a hot air blower (for example, in the embodiment as a hair dryer, hood or curling iron), a flat iron or a corrugated iron.

Very particular preference is given to at least one (C ₂ to C ₅ ) dialkylsulfone (in particular diethylsulfone) as a heat protection agent in the context of a heat-assisted smoothing keratinhaltiger fibers, especially human hair, at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, more preferably 150 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 120 ° C to 220 ° C).

In the context of the use according to the invention, it has proved favorable to incorporate the (C ₂ to C ₅ ) -dialkyl sulfones into a cosmetic carrier and to use the resulting cosmetic agent before, during or after the shaping. It turned out to be preferable if the cosmetic agent, based on the total weight of the composition, at least 1.0 wt .-%, again preferably at least 2.0 wt .-%, more preferably at least 3.0 wt .-% , particularly preferably at least 5.0 wt .-%, most preferably at least 7.5 wt .-%, of at least one (C ₂ to C ₅ ) dialkylsulfone (in particular diethylsulfone).

A second aspect of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, based on the total weight of the composition, from 0.1 to 40% by weight of at least one (C ₂ to C ₅ ) dialkylsulfone.

It is inventively preferred if the agent according to the invention / the (C ₂ to C ₅ ) dialkylsulfone (s) in an amount of 0.15 to 30 wt .-%, preferably from 0.2 to 25 wt .-% and in particular from 0.25 to 20 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains. With respect to the (C ₂ to C ₅ ) -dialkylsulfones and their preferred embodiments mutatis mutandis applies what was said in the first subject of the invention.

Very particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, more preferably 0.75 to 20 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 15 wt .-% diethylsulfone. It is again preferred that the agents according to the invention contain as little dimethyl sulfone as possible. Here, preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - based on their weight - less than 0.2 wt .-%, preferably less than 0.1 wt .-% dimethyl sulfone, with particular preferred agents are free of dimethyl sulfone.

The agents according to the invention contain the ingredients or active ingredients in a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

Preferred cosmetically acceptable carriers are aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic media. Aqueous alcoholic media preferably contain at least 10% by weight of water, in particular at least 30% by weight of water, in each case based on the total agent. As alcohols, in particular the lower alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms (in particular (C ₁ to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkanes) usually used for cosmetic purposes, such as, for example, ethanol and isopropanol, may be present. It is inventively preferred at least one (C ₁ to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkane in the inventive compositions in particular in an amount of 1 to 50 wt .-%, in particular from 5 to 30 wt .-% use. The cosmetically acceptable carrier of the agent according to the invention very particularly preferably contains at least 10% by weight of water and 0 to 50% by weight of at least one (C ₁ to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkane (in particular at least 30% by weight of water and optionally 5 to 30 wt .-% of at least one (C ₁ to C ₄ ) monohydroxyalkane), each based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

Very particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally - based on their weight - 40 to 95 wt .-%, preferably 45 to 92.5 wt .-%, more preferably 50 to 90 wt .-%, even further preferably 55 to 87.5 wt .-% and in particular 60 to 85 wt .-% water.

Particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 7% by weight, even more preferably from 2 to 6 Wt .-% and in particular 2.5 to 5 wt .-% of at least one alcohol from the group ethanol, isopropanol or mixtures thereof.

With particular preference, the agents according to the invention may contain one or more film-forming polymer (s). Preferred agents contain 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of at least one film-forming polymer.

Of course, several film-forming and / or setting polymers may be included. These film-forming and / or setting polymers may be both permanent and temporary cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric. Of course, when using at least two film-forming and / or setting polymers, they may have different charges. It may be preferred according to the invention for an ionic film-forming and / or setting polymer to be used together with an amphoteric and / or nonionic film-forming and / or setting polymer. The use of at least two oppositely charged film-forming and / or setting polymers is also preferred. In the latter case, a particular embodiment may in turn additionally contain at least one further amphoteric and / or nonionic film-forming and / or setting polymer.

Since polymers are often multifunctional, their functions can not always be clearly and clearly distinguished from each other. This applies in particular to film-forming and setting polymers. Many polymers that are primarily described as film-forming also have strengthening properties and vice versa. It is therefore explicitly stated at this point that both film-forming and fixing polymers are essential in the context of the present invention. Since both properties are not completely independent of one another, the term "setting polymers" is always understood to mean "film-forming polymers" and vice versa.

Among the preferred properties of the film-forming polymers is the film formation. Film-forming polymers are polymers which leave a continuous film on the skin, the hair or the nails when drying. Such film formers can be used in a wide variety of cosmetic products, such as for example face masks, make-up, hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail varnishes. Particularly preferred are those polymers which have sufficient solubility in water, alcohol or water / alcohol mixtures. This makes it possible to produce appropriate solutions that can be applied or processed in a simple manner. The film-forming polymers may be of synthetic or natural origin. Film-forming polymers furthermore include those polymers which, when used in 0.01 to 20% strength by weight aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solution, are capable of depositing a transparent polymer film on the hair. The film-forming polymers may be anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, permanent cationic or temporarily cationically charged.

Suitable and inventively preferably used synthetic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are homopolymers or copolymers which are composed of at least one of the following monomers: vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl esters such. As vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, C ₁ - to C ₇ -alkylacrylamide, C ₁ - to C ₇ -dialkylacrylamide, C ₁ - to C ₇ -alkylmethacrylamide, C ₁ - to C ₇ -dialkylmethacrylamide, C ₁ - to C ₇ alkyl acrylate, acrylic acid, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, wherein the C ₁ - to C ₇ alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably C ₁ - to C ₃ alkyl groups.

Examples include homopolymers of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide. Other suitable synthetic film-forming, hair-fixing polymers are, for. B. copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate and vinyl propionate, polyacrylamides, which are sold, for example, under the trade names Akypomine ^® P 191 from CHEM-Y, Emmerich, or Seeigel ^® 305 from Seppic; Polyvinyl alcohols, which are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ^® from DuPont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products as well as polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers, for example, Ucon ^® Union Carbide sold under the trade names.

Suitable natural film-forming polymers are, for. B. cellulose derivatives, eg. B. hydroxypropyl cellulose having a molecular weight of 30,000 to 50,000 g / mol, which is sold, for example, under the trade name Nisso SI ^® by Lehmann & Voss, Hamburg. Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These so-called setting polymers are at the same time film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment compositions such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.

Substances which further impart hydrophobic properties to the hair are preferred because they reduce the tendency of the hair to absorb moisture, that is, water. As a result, the limp drooping of the hair strands is reduced, thus ensuring a long-lasting hairstyle structure and - preservation. The test method for this is often the so-called curl retention test applied. These polymeric substances can also be successfully incorporated into leave-on and rinse-off hair treatments or shampoos. Since polymers are often multifunctional, that is, show several applications-wise desirable effects, numerous polymers can be found in several groups divided according to the particular mode of action, as well as in the CTFA Handbook. Because of the importance of just the setting polymers they should therefore be listed explicitly in the form of their INCI name. In this list, therefore, of course, especially the mentioned film-forming polymers again. Examples of common film-forming, setting polymers are Acrylamide / Ammonium Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylamide / DMAPA Acrylates / Methoxy PEG Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Acetoacetoxyethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / t-Butyl Acrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C1-2 Succinates / Hydroxy Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / Lauryl Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxide Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Acrylates / Octylacrylamides / Diphenyl Amodimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates / Stearyl Acrylates / Ethylamine Oxides Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates / VA Copolymer, Acrylates / VP Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Dimethylaminohydroxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Acid / Epoxypropyl Diethylenetriamine Copolymer, Adipic Aci d / Isophthalic Acid / Neopentyl Glycol / Trimethylolpropane Copolymer, Allyl Stearate / VA Copolymer, Aminoethyl Acrylate Phosphate / Acrylate Copolymer, Aminoethylpropanediol Acrylate / Acrylamide Copolymer, Aminoethyl Propanediol AMPD Acrylate / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, Ammonium VA / Acrylate Copolymer, AMPD Acrylate / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / C1-18 Alkyl Acrylates / C1-8 Alkyl Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Diacetone Acrylamide Copolymer, AMP Acrylates / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Bacillus / Rice Bran Extract / Soybean Extract Ferment Filtrates, Bis-Butyloxyamodimethicone / PEG-60 Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Ethylhexyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Butyl Acrylate / Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Butylated PVP, Butyl Ester of Ethylene / MA Copolymer, Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Calcium / Sodium PVM / MA Copolymer, Corn Starch / Acrylamide / Sodium Acrylate Copolymer, Diethylene Glycolamine / Epichlorohydrin / Piperazine Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Diphenyl Amodimethicone, Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / PVP Crosspolymer, Isobutylene / Ethylmaleimide / Hydroxyethylmaleimide Copolymer, Isobutylene / MA Copolymer, Isobutylmethacrylate / Bis Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Acrylate Copolymer, Isopropyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Lauryl Acrylate Crosspolymer, La uryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, MEA Sulfites, Methacrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylamidomethyl Propane Sulfonate Copolymer, Methacryloyl Ethyl Betaine / Acrylates Copolymer, Octylacrylamide / Acrylates / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, PEG / PPG-25/25 Dimethicone / Acrylates Copolymer, PEG-8 / SMDI Copolymer, Polyacrylamides, Polyacrylates-6, Polybeta-Alanine / Glutaric Acid Crosspolymer, Polybutylene Terephthalate, Polyester-1, Polyethylacrylates, Polyethylene Terephthalate, Polymethacryloyl Ethyl Betaine, Polypentaerythrityl Terephthalate, Polygerfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, Polyquaternium-1, Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-4 , Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-8, Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-11, Polyquaternium-12, Polyquaternium-13, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-16, Polyquaternium -17, Polyquaternium-18, Polyquaternium-19, Polyquaternium-20, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Pol yquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-29, Polyquaternium-30, Polyquaternium-31, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-34, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium- 46, Polyquaternium-47, Polyquaternium-48, Polyquaternium-49, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-55, Polyquaternium-56, Polysilicone-9, Polyurethane-1, Polyurethane-6, Polyurethane-10, Polyvinyl Acetate, Polyvinyl Butyral, Polyvinylcaprolactam, Polyvinylformamide, Polyvinyl Imidazolinium Acetate, Polyvinyl Methyl Ether, Potassium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Potassium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, PPG-70 Polyglyceryl-10 Ether, PPG-12 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-51 / SMDI Copolymer, PPG-10 Sorbitol, PVM / MA Copolymer, PVP, PVP / VA / Itaconic Acid Copolymer, PVP / VA / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, Rhizobian Gum, Rosin Acrylate, Shellac, Sodium Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Ethyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sterculia Urens Gum, Terephtha Acid / Isophthalic Acid / Sodium Isophthalic Acid Sulfonate / Glycol Copolymer, Trimethylolpropane Triacrylate, Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl Pullulan, VA / Crotonates Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Methacryloxybenzophenone-1 Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer, VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Propionate Copolymer, VA / DBM Copolymer, VA / Vinyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer, Vinylamine / Vinyl Alcohol Copolymer, Vinyl Caprolactam / VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Acrylates / Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / Dimethylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, VP / Hexadecene Copolymer, VP / VA Copolymer, VP / Vinyl Caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylate Copolymer, Yeast Palmitate.

Preferably, compositions according to the invention comprise at least one film-forming and / or setting polymer which comprises vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl acetate-crotonic acid copolymers, vinylcaprolactam-vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide-acrylate-butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers and quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Copolymer is selected.

Particularly preferably it is in the film-forming and / or setting the polymer to the vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers Luviskol ^® VA 37, or PVP / VA Copolymer 60/40 W NP, the vinyl acetate-crotonic acid copolymers, sold under the trade name Aristoflex ^® A 60 is sold, the caprolactam-vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer with tradename Advantage ^® LC-e, that available under the name Amphomer ^® amphoteric octylacrylamide-acrylate-butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymer or quaternized by reaction with diethyl vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, which is sold under the trade name Gafquat ^® 755N.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention additionally contain at least one vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer.

In one embodiment of the invention it is preferred that the agent according to the invention additionally contains at least one setting polymer selected from at least one compound selected from the group consisting of fixing nonionic polymers, setting anionic polymers, setting amphoteric polymers and setting cationic polymers.

Firming polymers contribute to the maintenance and / or build-up of the hair volume and hair fullness of the overall hairstyle. These polymers are at the same time also film-forming polymers and therefore generally typical substances for shaping hair treatment agents such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. The film formation can be quite selective and connect only a few fibers.

In addition, the agent according to the invention preferably contains at least one consolidating cationic polymer.

The additional strengthening cationic polymers have at least one structural unit containing at least one permanently cationized nitrogen atom. Permanently cationized nitrogen atoms are to be understood as meaning those nitrogen atoms which carry a positive charge and thereby form a quaternary ammonium compound. Quaternary ammonium compounds are usually by reaction of tertiary amines with alkylating agents, such as. As methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also produced ethylene oxide. Depending on the tertiary amine used, the following groups are known in particular:
Alkylammonium compounds, alkenylammonium compounds, imidazolinium compounds and pyridinium compounds.

Preferred agents in the context of this embodiment comprise the setting cationic polymers in an amount of from 0.1% by weight to 20.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2% by weight to 10.0% by weight, most preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 5.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.

The cationic fixing polymers can be selected according to the invention from cationic, quaternized cellulose derivatives.

In general, such cationic, quaternized celluloses prove to be advantageous in the sense of the embodiment which carries more than one permanent cationic charge in a side chain.

worin
R¹ und R⁴ stehen unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe,
A¹ und A² stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine Gruppe Ethan-1,2-diyl, Propan-1,3-diyl oder Butan-1,4-diyl,
R², R³, R⁵ und R⁶ stehen unabhängig voneinander für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe,
R⁷ steht für eine (C₈ bis C₃₀)-Alkylgruppe.Of these, among the cationic cellulose derivatives are those which are prepared from the reaction of hydroxyethylcellulose with a dimethyldiallylammonium reactant (in particular dimethyldiallylammonium chloride), if appropriate in the presence of further reactants. Among these cationic celluloses such cationic celluloses with the INCI name Polyquaternium-4 in turn, are particularly suitable, which are sold for example under the names of Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 ^® by the company National Starch. Also suitable are those cationic fixing polymers which comprise at least one structural unit of the formula (N1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (N2) and optionally at least one structural unit of the formula (K1)

wherein
R ¹ and R ⁴ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
A ¹ and A ² independently of one another represent a group ethane-1,2-diyl, propane-1,3-diyl or butane-1,4-diyl,
R ² , R ³ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ independently of one another represent a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group,
R ⁷ is a (C ₈ to C ₃₀ ) alkyl group.

To compensate for the positive charge of the monomer (K1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

• – Copolymere aus mit Diethylsulfat quaterniertem Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat, mit N-Vinylpyrrolidon mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-11 unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®440, Gafquat^®734, Gafquat^®755 (jeweils Firma ISP) sowie Luviquat PQ 11 PN (Firma BASF SE),
• – Copolymere aus Methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium chlorid mit N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-55 unter den Handelsnamen Styleze^® W-10, Styleze^® W-20 (Firma ISP),
• – Copolymere aus Methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium chlorid mit N-Vinylpyrrolidon, N-Vinylcaprolactam und Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-69 unter den Handelsnamen Aquastyle^® 300 (Firma ISP), im Handel erhältlich.

Suitable compounds are, for example, as

• - copolymers of with diethyl sulfate quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, N-vinylpyrrolidone having the INCI name Polyquaternium-11 under the names Gafquat ^® 440, Gafquat ^® 734, Gafquat ^® 755 (each ISP), and Luviquat PQ 11 PN (BASF SE),
• - copolymers of Methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium chloride with N-vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropyl with the INCI name Polyquaternium-55 available under the trade name Styleze W-10 ^{®, ®} Styleze W-20 (ISP)
• - Copolymers of Methacryloylaminopropyllauryldimethylammonium chloride with N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam and Dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamid with the INCI name Polyquaternium-69 under the trade name Aquastyle ^® 300 (ISP), commercially available.

worin
R'' für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine Methylgruppe, steht, und zusätzlich mindestens ein weiteres kationisches und/oder nichtionisches Strukturelement aufweisen.In the context of the embodiment, particularly preferably employable setting cationic polymers continue to serve such festierend cationic copolymers containing at least one structural element of the formula (K2)

wherein
R "is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group, and additionally having at least one further cationic and / or nonionic structural element.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge, the above applies.

worin
R'' für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe, insbesondere eine Methylgruppe, steht. Zur Kompensation der positiven Polymerladung der Copolymere (c1) dienen alle möglichen physiologisch verträglichen Anionen, wie beispielsweise Chlorid, Bromid, Hydrogensulfat, Methylsulfat, Ethylsulfat, Tetrafluoroborat, Phosphat, Hydrogenphosphat, Dihydrogenphosphat oder p-Toluolsulfonat, Triflat.In the context of this embodiment, it is again preferred according to the invention if at least one copolymer (c1) which additionally comprises a structural element of the formula (N1) in addition to at least one structural element of the formula (K2) is present as the consolidating cationic polymer

wherein
R '' is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group, in particular a methyl group. To compensate for the positive polymer charge of the copolymers (c1) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Very particularly preferred setting cationic polymers as copolymers (c1) contain 10 to 30 mol%, preferably 15 to 25 mol% and in particular 20 mol% of structural units of the formula (K2) and 70 to 90 mol%, preferably 75 to 85 mol .-% and in particular 80 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (N1).

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m und p je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten der Formel (K2) und der Formel (N1) im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.It is particularly preferred if the copolymers (c1) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (K2) and (N1) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, Contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers. The copolymers (c1) are preferably composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (K2) where R "= methyl and (N1) and can be represented by the general formula (poly1)

describe, wherein the indices m and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formula (K2) and of the formula (N1) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly1) a chloride ion used, then these N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are referred to as Polyquaternium-16, according to INCI nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style , Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 550, FC 905 and Luviquat.RTM ^® Luviquat.RTM ^® HM 552

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly1) using a methosulfate, these N-methylvinylimidazole are / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers are, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-44 and are, for example, from BASF under the trade names Luviquat ^® Ultra Care available.

In addition to the copolymer (s) (c1) or at its site, the agents according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c2) which, starting from the copolymer (c1), have structural units of the formula (M3) as additional structural units

Further particularly preferred agents of this embodiment are thus characterized in that they contain as consolidating cationic polymer at least one copolymer (c2) having at least one structural unit of formula (K2-a) and at least structural unit of formula (N1) and at least structural unit of formula Contains (M3)

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m, n und p je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten der besagten Formeln im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.Here, too, it is particularly preferred in the context of this embodiment if the copolymers (c2) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (K2-a), (N1) and (M3) in the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c2) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formulas (K2-a), (N1) and (M3) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly2)

describe, wherein the indices m, n and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of said formulas can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c2) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (Poly2), a methosulfate be used refer to those N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylcaprolactam copolymers, according to INCI nomenclature as Polyquaternium-46 and are for example available under the trade names Luviquat ^® Hold by BASF ,

Very particularly preferred copolymers (c2) contain 1 to 20 mol%, preferably 5 to 15 mol% and in particular 10 mol% of structural units of the formula (K2-a) and 30 to 50 mol%, preferably 35 to 45 mol .-% and in particular 40 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (N1) and 40 to 60 mol .-%, preferably 45 to 55 mol .-% and in particular 60 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (M3).

In addition to the copolymer (s) (c1) and / or (c2) or at its site, the compositions according to the invention may also contain copolymers (c3) as a consolidating cationic polymer which contain, as structural units, structural units of the formulas (K2-). a) and (N1), as well as further structural units from the group of vinylimidazole units and further structural units from the group of the acrylamide and / or methacrylamide units. Further particularly preferred agents of this embodiment are characterized in that they contain as additional strengthening cationic polymer at least one copolymer (c3), the at least one structural unit of formula (K2-a) and at least another structural unit of formula (N1) and at least another structural unit according to formula (N3) and contains at least further structural unit according to formula (N4)

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m, n, o und p je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt.Here, too, it is particularly preferred in the context of this embodiment if the copolymers (c3) in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (K2-a), (N1), (N3) and (N4) in the copolymer , at most 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, contain polymer units, which are due to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c3) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (K2-a), (N1), (N3) and (N4) and can be represented by the general formula (Poly3)

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers.

Rather, structural units of the formulas (K2-a), (N1), (N3) and (N4) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

To compensate for the positive polymer charge of component (c2) are all possible physiologically acceptable anions, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, tetrafluoroborate, phosphate, hydrogen phosphate, dihydrogen phosphate or p-toluenesulfonate, triflate.

Is to compensate the positive charge of the polymer of formula (poly 3) a methosulfate such N-methylvinylimidazole / vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole / methacrylamide copolymers are used as Polyquaternium-68, according to INCI nomenclature and are, for example, from BASF under the tradename Luviquat ^® Supreme available.

Very particularly preferred copolymers (c3) contain 1 to 12 mol%, preferably 3 to 9 mol% and in particular 6 mol% of structural units of the formula (K2-a) and 45 to 65 mol%, preferably 50 to 60 mol .-% and in particular 55 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (N1) and 1 to 20 mol .-%, preferably 5 to 15 mol .-% and in particular 10 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (N3) and 20 to 40 mol .-%, preferably 25 to 35 mol .-% and in particular 29 mol .-% of structural units of the formula (N4).

• – N-Vinylpyrrolidon/1-Vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazoliumchlorid-Copolymere (wie beispielsweise das mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-16 unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Luviquat^® Style, Luviquat^® FC 370, Luviquat^® FC 550, Luviquat^® FC 905 und Luviquat^® HM 552 (BASF SE)),
• – N-Vinylpyrrolidon/1-Vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazoliummethylsulfat-Copolymere (wie beispielsweise das mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-44 unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Luviquat^® Care (BASF SE)),
• – N-Vinylpyrrolidon/N-Vinylcaprolactam/1-Vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium-Terpolymer (wie beispielsweise das mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-46 unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Luviquat^® Care oder Luviquat^® Hold (BASF SE)),
• – N-Vinylpyrrolidon/Methacrylamid/N-Vinylimidazol/1-Vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazoliummethylsulfat-Copolymer (wie beispielsweise das mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Polyquaternium-68 unter der Handelsbezeichnung Luviquat^® Supreme (BASF SE)),

sowie Gemische aus diesen Polymeren.Among the additional strengthening cationic polymers selected from the cationic polymers having at least one structural element of the above formula (K2), the following are preferred:

• - N-vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium chloride copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Style, Luviquat ^® FC 370, Luviquat ^® FC 550, Luviquat ^® FC 905 and Luviquat HM 552 ^® (BASF SE)),
• - N-vinylpyrrolidone / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium-copolymers (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-44 under the trade names Luviquat Care ^® (BASF SE)),
• - N-vinylpyrrolidone / N-vinylcaprolactam / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium terpolymer (such as for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-46 under the trade names Luviquat ^® Care or Luviquat ^® Hold (BASF SE)),
• - N-vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamide / N-vinyl imidazole / 1-vinyl-3-methyl-1H-imidazolium copolymer (for example that with the INCI name Polyquaternium-68 ^® under the trade name Luviquat Supreme (BASF SE)),

and mixtures of these polymers.

The composition according to the invention preferably contains at least one strengthening nonionic polymer as additional strengthening polymer. According to the invention, a nonionic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer which carries in a protic solvent under standard conditions substantially no structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining the electroneutrality. Quaternized ammonium groups, however, do not include protonated amines under cationic groups. Examples of anionic groups include carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.

The reinforcing nonionic polymers are preferably contained in the agent of this embodiment in an amount of from 0.1% to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 15.0% by weight. , very particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the inventive composition. The compositions according to the invention particularly preferably contain at least one chitosan as nonionic setting polymer.

Chitosans are biopolymers and are counted among the group of hydrocolloids. Chemically, these are partially deacetylated chitins of different molecular weight.

For the production of chitosans is based on chitin, preferably the shell remains of crustaceans, which are available as cheap raw materials in large quantities. The chitin is usually first deproteinized by the addition of bases, demineralized by the addition of mineral acids and finally deacetylated by the addition of strong bases, wherein the molecular weights can be distributed over a broad spectrum. Preferably, those types are used which have a weight average molecular weight of 800,000 to 1,200,000 daltons, Brookfield viscosity (1% by weight in glycolic acid) below 5000 mPas, have a deacetylation degree in the range of 80 to 88% and an ash content of less than 0.3 wt .-%.

In addition to the chitosans as typical biopolymers come within the meaning of the invention as derivatives alkoxylated chitosans in question.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as chitosan at least one neutralization product of chitosan with at least one organic carboxylic acid. In this case, it is preferred according to the invention to select the organic carboxylic acid from lactic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, hydroxyisobutyric acid, hydroxyisovaleric acid or mixtures of these acids.

Suitable chitosans are, for example, under the trade designations Hydagen ^® CMF (1 wt .-% of active substance in aqueous solution with 0.4 wt .-% of glycolic acid, molecular weight 500,000 to 5,000,000 g / mol Cognis), Hydagen ^® HCMF (chitosan (80% deacetylated), molecular weight of 50,000 to 1,000,000 g / mol, Cognis), Kytamer ^® PC (80 wt .-% of active substance of chitosan pyrolidoncarboxylat (INCI name: chitosan PCA), Amerchol) and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 freely available commercially.

The chitosans or their derivatives are preferred in the inventive compositions in an amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.05 wt .-% to 2.0 wt .-%, completely particularly preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the composition according to the invention.

bevorzugt geeignet, welche gemäß Formel (N5) als R' ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Acetylgruppe oder eine Propanoylgruppe, insbesondere eine Acetylgruppe, tragen.According to the invention, such reinforcing nonionic polymers having at least one structural element of the formula (N5)

preferably suitable which according to formula (N5) as R 'is a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or a propanoyl group, in particular an acetyl group bear.

• – Homopolymeren und nichtionischen Copolymeren des N-Vinylpyrrolidons,
• – nichtionischen Copolymeren des Isobutens.

The strengthening nonionic polymers are again preferably selected from at least one polymer of the group being formed

• Homopolymers and nonionic copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone,
• - nonionic copolymers of isobutene.

Suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are, for example, commercial products such as Luviskol ^® K 90 or Luviskol ^® K 85 from BASF SE.

Suitable polyvinyl alcohols are marketed under the trade names Elvanol.RTM ^® from DuPont or Vinol ^® 523/540 by Air Products.

Suitable polyvinyl acetate is marketed under the trade name Vinac ^® as an emulsion from Air Products.

• – Polyvinylpyrrolidon,
• – Copolymeren aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylestern von Carbonsäuren mit 2 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat,
• – Copolymere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und N-Vinylimidazol und Methacrylamid,
• – Copolymere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon und N-Vinylimidazol und Acrylamid,
• – Copolymere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon mit N,N-Di(C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylamino-(C₂ bis C₄)-alkylacrylamid,
• – Copolymere aus N-Vinylpyrrolidon mit N,N-Di(C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylamino-(C₂ bis C₄)-alkylacrylamid,

sind erfindungsgemäß ganz besonders bevorzugt.An agent which comprises, as a consolidating nonionic polymer, at least one polymer selected from the group formed

• - polyvinylpyrrolidone,
• Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl esters of carboxylic acids having 2 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,
• Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and methacrylamide,
• Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N-vinylimidazole and acrylamide,
• Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N, N-di (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkylamino (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -alkylacrylamide,
• Copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone with N, N-di (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkylamino (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -alkylacrylamide,

are very particularly preferred according to the invention.

Further possible compositions according to the invention with additional nonionic setting polymer are characterized in that they comprise as nonionic fixing polymer at least one copolymer containing at least one further structural unit of formula (N1) and at least one structural unit of formula (M3) and at least one structural unit of formula Contains (N3)

beschreiben, wobei die Indices m, n, o und p je nach Molmasse des Polymers variieren und nicht bedeuten sollen, daß es sich um Blockcopolymere handelt. Vielmehr können Struktureinheiten der Formeln (N1), (M3) und (N3) im Molekül statistisch verteilt vorliegen.Here, too, it is particularly preferred if these copolymers in addition to polymer units resulting from the incorporation of said structural units of the formula (K2-a), (N1), (M3) and (N3) into the copolymer, a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 1 wt .-%, polymer units, which go back to the incorporation of other monomers. Preferably, the copolymers (c4) are composed exclusively of structural units of the formula (K2-a), (N1), (M3) and (N3) and can be represented by the general formula (poly4)

describe, wherein the indices m, n, o and p vary depending on the molecular weight of the polymer and should not mean that they are block copolymers. Rather, structural units of the formulas (N1), (M3) and (N3) can be present in the molecule in a statistically distributed manner.

A particularly preferred polymer is selected from polymers of the INCI name VP / methacrylamide / vinyl imidazole copolymer, which are obtainable, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain as consolidating polymer at least one consolidating amphoteric polymer. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

An example of a usable according to the invention setting amphoteric polymer is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^®, ethyl methacrylate, tert-butylamino-a copolymer of N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers selected from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple alkyl esters represents. The strengthening amphoteric polymers are preferably present in the water-based compositions which can be used according to the invention in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Quantities of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are very particularly preferred.

Furthermore, at least one solidifying anionic polymer can be used as setting polymers. When the composition of the invention contains a solidifying anionic polymer, it is preferably in the form of a spray, in particular an aerosol spray.

The solidifying anionic polymers are polymers which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers from which such polymers may consist are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. The setting anionic polymers are preferred in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.1 wt .-% to 20.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 wt .-% to 15.0 wt .-%, completely particularly preferably from 0.5 wt .-% to 10.0 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

und neben mindestens einer Struktureinheit der Formeln (S1-1) bis (S1-3) zusätzlich mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (S2) enthält, die ausgewählt wird aus mindestens einer Struktureinheit der Formeln (S2-1) bis (S2-8)

worin
R¹² für eine (C₂ bis C₁₂)-Acylgruppe (insbesondere für Acetyl oder Neodecanoyl) steht. Im Rahmen einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform gelten solche erfindungsgemäß einsetzbaren wasserbasierten Zusammensetzungen als erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, die als haarfestigendes Polymer mindestens ein Polymer enthalten, das mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (S1-3) und mindestens eine Struktureinheit der Formel (S2-8) enthalten

worin R¹² für eine (C₂ bis C₁₂)-Acylgruppe (insbesondere für Acetyl und/oder Neodecanoyl) steht. Besonders bevorzugte Polymere dieser Art werden ausgewählt aus mindestens einem Polymer der Gruppe, die gebildet wird aus

• – Copolymeren aus Vinylacetat und Crotonsäure.
• – Copolymeren aus Vinylpropionat und Crotonsäure,
• – Copolymeren aus Vinylneodecanoat, Vinylacetat und Crotonsäure.

It is preferred according to the invention if the anionic, hair-fixing polymer contains at least one structural unit of the formula (S1) which is selected from at least one structural unit of the formulas (S1-1) to (S1-3)

and in addition to at least one structural unit of the formulas (S1-1) to (S1-3) additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (S2), which is selected from at least one structural unit of the formulas (S2-1) to (S2-8)

wherein
R ^{12 is} a (C ₂ to C ₁₂ ) acyl group (in particular acetyl or neodecanoyl). Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, such water-based compositions which can be used according to the invention are preferred according to the invention as hair-fixing polymer containing at least one polymer containing at least one structural unit of the formula (S1-3) and at least one structural unit of the formula (S2-8)

wherein R ^{12 is} a (C ₂ to C ₁₂ ) acyl group (in particular acetyl and / or neodecanoyl). Particularly preferred polymers of this type are selected from at least one polymer of the group formed

• - Copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid.
• - copolymers of vinyl propionate and crotonic acid,
• - Copolymers of vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl acetate and crotonic acid.

Such copolymers are, for example, from the company Clariant under the trade name Aristoflex A 60 (INCI name: VA / Crotonates copolymer) in an isopropanol-water mixture (60 wt .-% active ingredient), from BASF under the trade name Luviset CA 66 (Vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymer 90:10, INCI name VA / Crotonates Copolymer) provided by National Starch under the trade names Resyn 28-2942 and Resyn 28-2930 (INCI name: VA / Crotonates / Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymer ) provided. Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, such agents according to the invention are preferred as containing at least one polymer as anionic hair-fixing polymer, which contain at least one structural unit of the formula (S1-1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (S2-5)

worin
R¹⁵ steht für ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe
R¹⁶ steht für eine (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkylgruppe (insbesondere eine Methylgruppe oder eine Ethylgruppe).In this case, it is again particularly preferred if the anionic hair-fixing polymer additionally contains at least one structural unit of the formula (S3) in addition to the above structural units of the formulas (S1-1) and (S2-5)

wherein
R ¹⁵ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
R ¹⁶ is a (C ₁ to C ₄ ) -alkyl group (in particular a methyl group or an ethyl group).

Particularly preferred polymers of this type are selected from at least one polymer of the group which is formed from copolymers of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate and N-tert-butylacrylamide. Such copolymers are, for example, by the company BASF under the trade name Ultrahold ^® Strong (INCI name: Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, white, pourable granulate) or Ultrahold ^® 8 (INCI name: Acrylates / t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer, white, pourable Granules) provided.

In addition, the water-based composition which can be used according to the invention as an anionic setting polymer contains at least one polyurethane having at least one carboxyl group (such as, for example, a copolymer of isophthalic acid, adipic acid, 1,6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and isophorone diisocyanate as sold under the trade name Luviset PUR with the INCI). Term Polyurethane-1 is sold by the company BASF SE). The setting anionic polymers are preferably contained in an amount of 0.1 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, in particular from 0.5 wt .-% to 10 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the water-based composition ,

in der R²=-H oder -CH₃ ist, R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkyl-, (C₁ bis C₄)-Alkenyl- oder (C₂ bis C₄)-Hydroxyalkylgruppen, p = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, q eine natürliche Zahl und X^– ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, amphoteren Copolymeren des N-(C₆ bis C₁₀)-Alkylacrylamids, amphoteren Copolymeren des N-(C₆ bis C₁₀)-Alkylmethacrylamids, anionischen Polymeren, welche Carboxylat- und/oder Sulfonatgruppen aufweisen, anionischen PolyurethanenIn summary, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the film-forming and / or hair-fixing polymer is selected from at least one polymer selected from nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, nonionic cellulose derivatives, starch and its derivatives, chitosan and Derivatives of chitosan, cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic copolymers of 3- (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl-1-vinyl-imidazoliniums, homopolymers and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium, homopolymers and copolymers containing the structural unit of the formula (M-1)

wherein R ² = -H or -CH ₃ , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently selected from (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl, (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkenyl or (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p = 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, amphoteric copolymers of N- (C ₆ to C ₁₀ ) -alkylacrylamide, amphoteric Copolymers of N- (C ₆ to C ₁₀ ) -alkyl methacrylamide, anionic polymers having carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups, anionic polyurethanes

It is preferred according to the invention if the agent, based on the total weight of the composition, contains less than 0.5% by weight (in particular less than 0.1% by weight) of sulfur-containing keratin-reducing compounds. The agents according to the invention are particularly preferably free from sulfur-containing, keratin-reducing compounds. Keratin reducing compounds are capable of reductively cleaving keratin fiber disulfide groups to form thiol groups.

It has proved to be particularly preferred if the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one cationic surfactant. Again, cationic surfactants selected from quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and amidoamines or mixtures thereof are preferred. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. For example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms.

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® 180 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A particularly suitable compound according to the invention from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially available stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. The cationic surfactants are preferably used in the inventive compositions in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-% based on the entire medium, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Very particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.025 to 0.75% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% (C ₁₂ to C ₁₈ ) -Alkyltrimethylammoniumsalz (e) included.

It has proved to be particularly preferred if the agents according to the invention additionally comprise at least one nonionic surfactant.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 100 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder (C₂ bis C₆)-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 1 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (E4-I) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)OR³ (E4-I) in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (E4-II), R₄O-[G]p (E4-II) in der R⁴ für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Sie können nach den einschlägigen Verfahren der präparativen organischen Chemie erhalten werden.

Nonionic surfactants contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• - With a methyl or (C ₂ to C ₆ ) -alkyl radical endgruppenverschlossene addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 1 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C-atoms and to alkylphenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• Alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO is a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20 stands,
• - amine oxides,
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), R ₄ O- [G] p (E4-II) in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry.

As very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants, the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid have been found. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain as nonionic surfactants C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol and / or addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil ,

In the case of the surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Limited homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

The agents according to the invention as surfactant very particularly preferably contain at least one addition product of from 15 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular from 15 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide, to a linear or branched (in particular linear) fatty alcohol having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. These are very particularly preferably ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25 or ceteareth-50, which are marketed as Eumulgin ^® CS 15 (Cognis), Cremophor A25 (BASF SE) or Eumulgin ^® CS 50 (Cognis).

The agents preferably have a pH of 2 to 11. The pH range between 2 and 8 is particularly preferred. The pH values in the context of this document refer to the pH at 25 ° C., unless otherwise stated.

The compositions of the invention may further contain the auxiliaries and additives which are usually added to conventional styling agents.

As suitable auxiliaries and additives in particular additional care substances are mentioned. As a care material, for example, a silicone oil and / or a silicone gum can be used. Silicone oils or silicone gums which are suitable according to the invention are in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, for example dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated, quaternized or else anionic derivatives. Preference is given to cyclic and linear polydialkylsiloxanes, their alkoxylated and / or aminated derivatives, dihydroxypolydimethylsiloxanes and polyphenylalkylsiloxanes.

Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds. Initially, this is understood to mean the dimethiconols. Dimethicones form the second group of silicones which may be present according to the invention. These may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.

Dimethicone copolyols form another group of silicones that are suitable. Corresponding dimethicone copolyols are commercially available and are sold, for example, by Dow Corning under the name Dow ^Corning® 5330 Fluid.

Of course, the teaching according to the invention also encompasses the fact that the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolymers can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols from these and the conventional methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art.

When the dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used as emulsion, the droplet size of the emulsified particles is according to the invention 0.01 to 10000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 .mu.m, more preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0 , 01 to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

If branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are used, it is to be understood that the branching is greater than a random branching, which occurs randomly due to impurities of the respective monomers. For the purposes of the present invention, branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols are therefore to be understood as meaning that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01%. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1%, and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of branching is determined from the ratio of the unbranched monomers to the branching monomers, that is, the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched and highly branched dimethiconols, dimethicones and / or dimethicone copolyols can be very particularly preferred.

Particularly suitable silicones are amino-functional silicones, in particular the silicones, which are summarized under the INCI name Amodimethicone. Therefore, it is preferred according to the invention if the agents according to the invention additionally contain at least one amino-functional silicone. These are silicones which have at least one, optionally substituted, amino group. These silicones are referred to as amodimethicone according to the INCI nomenclature and are available for example in the form of an emulsion as a commercial product Dow Corning ^® 939 or as a commercial product Dow Corning ^® 949 in a mixture with a cationic and a nonionic surfactant.

Preferably, those amino-functional silicones are used which have an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially preferably above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

The agents contain the silicones preferably in amounts of from 0.01% by weight to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total agent.

As a care substance of another class of compounds, the agent may contain, for example, at least one protein hydrolyzate and / or one of its derivatives.

Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, alkaline or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins). According to the invention, the term protein hydrolyzates also means total hydrolyzates as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolysates which can be used according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight for glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight is 75 to 50,000 and very particularly preferably 75 to 20,000 daltons. According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be used. Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Innlex), Sericin (Pentapharm) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

The protein hydrolysates are present in the agents according to the invention, for example, in concentrations of from 0.01% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts of 0 , 05 wt .-% up to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total application preparation included.

As a care substance, the agent according to the invention may further comprise at least one vitamin, a provitamin, a vitamin precursor and / or one of their derivatives.

According to the invention, such vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred, which are usually assigned to groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, C, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Very particular preference is given to using D-panthenol as a care substance, if appropriate in combination with at least one of the abovementioned silicone derivatives.

As a conditioner, the compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one plant extract. Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

Mono- or oligosaccharides can also be used as a care substance in the compositions according to the invention.

Both monosaccharides and oligosaccharides, such as cane sugar, lactose and raffinose, can be used. The use of monosaccharides is preferred according to the invention. Among the monosaccharides, in turn, those compounds which contain 5 or 6 carbon atoms are preferred.

Suitable pentoses and hexoses are, for example, ribose, arabinose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, fucose and fructose. Arabinose, glucose, Galactose and fructose are preferred carbohydrates; Very particular preference is given to using glucose which is suitable both in the D - (+) or L - (-) configuration or as a racemate.

Furthermore, derivatives of these pentoses and hexoses, such as the corresponding on- and uronic acids (sugar acids), sugar alcohols and glycosides, can also be used according to the invention. Preferred sugars are gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, sugar acid, mannose and mucic acid. Preferred sugar alcohols are sorbitol, mannitol and dulcitol. Preferred glycosides are the methylglucosides.

Since the mono- or oligosaccharides used are usually obtained from natural raw materials such as starch, they generally have the configurations corresponding to these raw materials (for example D-glucose, D-fructose and D-galactose).

The mono- or oligosaccharides are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation.

The agent may further contain at least one lipid as a care substance.

Lipids suitable according to the invention are phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and also the substances known under the INCI names linoleic amidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates, cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates and stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chlorides phosphates. These are sold, for example, by the company Mona under the trade names Phospholipid ^EFA® , Phospholipid ^PTC® and Phospholipid ^SV® . The agents according to the invention preferably contain the lipids in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total application preparation. Furthermore, oil bodies are suitable as a care substance.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Esteröle. Unter Esterölen sind zu verstehen die Ester von C₆-C₃₀-Fettsäuren mit C₂-C₃₀-Fettalkoholen. Bevorzugt sind die Monoester der Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen mit 2 bis 24 C-Atomen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Isopropylmyristat (Rilanit^® IPM), Isononansäure-C_16-18-alkylester (Cetiol^® SN), 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® 24), Stearinsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Cetiol^® 868), Cetyloleat, Glycerintricaprylat, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat/-caprylat (Cetiol^® LC), n-Butylstearat, Oleylerucat (Cetiol^® J 600), Isopropylpalmitat (Rilanit^® IPP), Oleyl Oleate (Cetiol^®), Laurinsäurehexylester (Cetiol^® A), Di-n-butyladipat (Cetiol^® B), Myristylmyristat (Cetiol^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol^® SN), Ölsäuredecylester (Cetiol^® V).
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, worunter Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische zu verstehen sind. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein. Die Partialglyceride folgen vorzugsweise der Formel (D4-I),
  
  in der R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen stehen mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für einen Acylrest und mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für Wasserstoff steht. Die Summe (m + n + q) steht für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise für 0 oder 5 bis 25. Bevorzugt steht R¹ für einen Acylrest und R² und R³ für Wasserstoff und die Summe (m + n + q) ist 0. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies include, for example:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ -fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid _C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkoholcaprinat / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), Cetearyl Isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), decyl oleate (Cetiol ^® V).
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in US Pat DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, which are understood to mean monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  
  in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The amount used of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil body in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.1-30 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-%, and in particular 0.1-15 wt. -%. Although each of the aforementioned care substances alone already gives a satisfactory result, in the context of the present invention, all embodiments are also included, in which the agent contains a plurality of care substances also from different groups. By adding a UV filter, both the agents themselves and the treated fibers can be protected from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Preferably, therefore, at least one UV filter is added to the agent. The suitable UV filters are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum lies in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters preferred according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters. The UV filters are usually contained in amounts of 0.01-5 wt .-%, based on the total application preparation. Amounts of 0.1-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also contains one or more substantive dyes. This allows the treated keratin fiber not only to be temporarily patterned when the agent is applied, but also dyed at the same time. This may be particularly desirable if only a temporary dyeing is desired, for example, with eye-catching fashion colors, which can be removed again by simple washing from the keratinic fiber.

• (a) kationische Triphenylmethanfarbstoffe, wie beispielsweise Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 und Basic Violet 14,
• (b) aromatischen Systeme, die mit einer quaternären Stickstoffgruppe substituiert sind, wie beispielsweise Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 und Basic Brown 17, sowie
• (c) direktziehende Farbstoffe, die einen Heterocyclus enthalten, der mindestens ein quaternäres Stickstoffatom aufweist, wie sie beispielsweise in der EP-A2-998 908 , auf die an dieser Stelle explizit Bezug genommen wird, in den Ansprüchen 6 bis 11 genannt werden.

Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Preferred substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, HC Orange Disperse Orange 3, Acid Orange 7, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, HC Red BN, Pigment Red 57: 1, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Black 9, Acid Black 1, and Acid Black 52 known compounds as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (β-hydroxyethyl) - aminophenol, 2- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-4-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino 5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 1- (2'-ureidoethyl) amino-4-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone, picramic acid and its salts, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene. Preference is given to using cationic substantive dyes. Particularly preferred are

• (a) cationic triphenylmethane dyes such as Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14,
• (b) aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17, as well as
• (C) direct dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, as described for example in the EP-A2-998 908 to which reference is made at this point, are called in the claims 6 to 11.

The dyes which are also known by the names Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51 are very particularly preferred cationic substantive dyes of group (c). The cationic direct dyes, which are sold under the trademark Arianor ^®, according to the invention are also very particularly preferred cationic direct dyes.

The agents according to the invention according to this embodiment preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, based on the total agent. It is preferred according to the invention that the agents according to the invention are free of oxidation dye precursors. Oxidation dye precursors are classified into so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components. The formulation of the compositions according to the invention can be carried out in all forms customary for styling agents, for example in the form of solutions which can be applied to the hair as hair lotions or pump or aerosol spray, in the form of creams, emulsions, waxes, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions or other preparations suitable for use on the hair.

• (i) ein kosmetisches Mittel enthaltend in einem kosmetisch akzeptablen Träger mindestens ein (C₂ bis C₅)-Dialkylsulfon (bevorzugt ein kosmetisches Mittel des zweiten Erfindungsgegenstandes) auf die Fasern aufgetragen wird,
• (ii) die Fasern nach einer Einwirkzeit – nicht gespült werden und – gegebenenfalls getrocknet werden,
• (iii) die Fasern einer Wärmebehandlung unterzogen werden,
• (iv) die Fasern gegebenenfalls gespült werden.

A third object of the invention is a process for smoothing keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, in which

• (i) a cosmetic agent containing, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, at least one (C ₂ to C ₅ ) dialkylsulphone (preferably a cosmetic agent of the second subject of the invention), is applied to the fibers,
• (ii) the fibers are not rinsed after a contact time and are optionally dried,
• (iii) the fibers are subjected to a heat treatment,
• (iv) optionally rinsing the fibers.

• – nach, vor oder während Schritt (i) verformt, und/oder
• – während Schritt (iii) verformt. Verformungshilfsmittel im Sinne des erfindungsgemäßen Verfahrens können
• – z. B. Lockenwickler oder Papilloten im Falle einer Dauerwelle,
• – oder Hilfsmittel für eine mechanische Glättung, wie ein Kamm oder eine Bürste, ein Glättungsboard oder ein beheizbares Glätteisen im Falle einer Haarglättung sein.

In a method which is preferred according to the invention, the fibers are formed with the aid of deformation aids

• - deformed after, before or during step (i), and / or
• - deformed during step (iii). Deformation aids in the sense of the method according to the invention can
• - z. Curlers or papillots in the case of a perm,
• - or auxiliary for a mechanical smoothing, such as a comb or a brush, a smoothing board or a heated flat iron in case of hair straightening.

Mechanical smoothing is understood according to the invention to mean stretching of the curly fiber along its longest spatial extent.

It is preferred, in the context of a hair straightening, to smooth the fibers mechanically during the contact time from step (ii), in particular by combing or with the aid of a smoothing board. If the shaping aids, for example winder, are attached to the fiber by means of a corrugated process for a longer period of time, it is expedient to remove these deformation aids after step (iv).

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the keratin-containing fibers are moistened prior to step (i). This can be done by spraying the fibers with a liquid, preferably water. Preferably, prior to step (i), the fibers are shampooed with a conventional shampoo, rinsed and then toweled with a towel. After completion of the terry step remains a noticeable residual moisture in the hair back.

The reaction time of step (ii) is preferably 5-150 minutes, more preferably 10-60 minutes.

It is preferred according to the invention to dry the fibers in step (ii) before the heat treatment of step (iii). A dry keratin-containing fiber according to step (ii) of the method according to the invention is present when the water residues adhering to the hair have evaporated to such an extent that the hairs fall individually. Preferably, in dry keratin fiber, either the moisture content of the fiber is substantially in equilibrium with the humidity of the air, or the fiber absorbs moisture from the ambient air. Such a dry fiber is preferably obtained by drying the wet fiber with hot air using a hair dryer. The drying in step (ii) is preferably carried out if after step (ii) a heat treatment takes place in the context of a forming process, in which the surface of the keratin-containing fibers directly with a tempered surface of a forming aid (eg a transformation step takes place.

In a preferred embodiment, in step (iii), the fibers are subjected to a heat treatment with simultaneous deformation of the fiber at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, more preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C). more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C). Simultaneous deformation means that during the heat treatment the fiber is transformed into a mold, e.g. B. by mechanical smoothing or fixing the shape by winder or papillotene, brought or held.

In a specific embodiment, as part of a hair straightening the fibers in step (iii) a heat treatment with mechanical smoothing of the fiber at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, particularly preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C). The heat treatment can be done with hot air. In this case, the fiber is heated during the combing exactly at the point where the mechanical smoothing takes place. Moreover, it is particularly preferred that the heat treatment in the manner of smoothing by means of a so-called smoothing iron with appropriately tempered plates, in particular metal or ceramic plates, takes place in which the plate is pressed onto the fiber to be smoothed and pressed against the fiber Plate is moved along the fiber. The plates may optionally be coated with heat resistant materials. Particularly preferably, the keratin-containing fiber to be smoothed is pressed between two appropriately tempered plates and both plates are simultaneously moved along the longest spatial extent of the fiber. It is again preferred that both plates are connected to each other, so that both plates can be moved uniformly along the fiber. When the heat treatment is performed on living hair, the fiber is attached to one end (hair root). The plates in this case are preferably moved evenly away from the hair root along the entire fiber. This movement causes a mechanical smoothing of the fiber. A suitable device for heat treatment, for example, the device "Ceramic Flat-Master" (sold by: Efalock, Germany) or Schwarzkopf Professional: Model No: IP30A.

In a further embodiment, as part of a corrugation, the fibers are heat-treated under mechanical curling of the fiber in a step (iii) following step (ii) at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C , more preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C). The heat treatment can be done with a hot air blower. In this case, either the fiber is wrapped around a corresponding hot air curling iron and heated exactly at the point where the Krausung occurs. Or the fibers are wound on curlers as a deformation aid and heated with a hair dryer. Another possibility of heat-assisted corrugation takes place in which the fibers are wound without the use of a hot-air blower around a rod with a correspondingly heated surface and heated exactly at the point at which the Krausung occurs. A suitable device for heat treatment, for example, the device from Schwarzkopf Professional, Model No: CPL Type F37.

Furthermore, the fibers can be treated as part of a post-treatment at the end of the process according to the invention with a commercial conditioner.

Examples:

All amounts are in weight percent based on the total weight of the composition unless otherwise indicated.

1.0 example recipe

The following (E1) cosmetic agent according to the invention and the following comparative example (V1) were prepared by mixing the components. Table 1: raw material E1 V1 diethyl 10.0 - PVP / VA copolymer 60/40 2.5 2.5 cetyltrimethylammonium 0.15 0.15 silk protein hydrolyzate 0.03 0.03 with 3- (N-lauryl-N, N-dimethyl-ammonium) -2-hydroxypropyl modified, hydrolyzed wheat protein 0.35 0.35 chitosan 0.90 0.90 Polyquaternium-4 1.40 1.40 ethanol 10.00 10.00 Water, demineralized ad 100 ad 100

2.0 proof of effect:

2.1 Conduct hair straightening

• 1. Die Haarsträhne wurde mit einem alkalischen Shampoo: „Global Kerstin-Clarifying Shampoo” (pH=8,45) gewaschen. Dabei betrug die Wassertemperatur ca. 35 bis 39°C. Die Haarsträhne wurde für ca. 1 Minute mit 1 Gramm des besagten Shampoos shampooniert und im Anschluss unter klarem Wasser ausgespült (ca. 1 Minute).
• 2. Die Haarsträhne wurde zwischen Papiertüchern leicht ausgedrückt, jedoch nicht vollständig getrocknet.
• 3. Im Falle von verknoteten Haaren der Haarsträhne, wurde die Strähne vorsichtig mit einem Kamm aus Horn entwirrt.
• 4. Die Haarsträhne wurde möglichst glatt und gerade auf ein Uhrglas gelegt und mit dem erfindungsgemäßen Mittel beträufelt. Mit dem Finger wurde das Produkt leicht einmassiert (Handschuhe tragen!). Die Haarsträhne wurde dabei gut durchfeuchtet.
• 5. Das erfindungsgemäße Mittel wirkte für 1 Stunde ein.
• 6. Im Anschluss wurde überschüssiges Produkt zwischen zwei Fingern von der Haarsträhne abgestrichen und die Strähne im Anschluss zwischen Papiertüchern ausgedrückt, sodass sie nicht mehr tropfnass war.
• 7. Mit dem Föhn (Marke: BaByliss Typ S25) wurde die Haarsträhne getrocknet. Dabei wurde darauf geachtet, die Strähne möglichst glatt zu föhnen. Hilfsmittel hierbei war ein Kamm aus Horn. Die Föhntemperatur betrug ca. 80 bis 120°C.
• 8. Währenddessen wurde das Glätteisen (Marke: Schwarzkopf Professional; Modell-Nr: IP30A) auf höchster Stufe (210°C) für mindestens 10 Minuten aufgeheizt. Die mit einem Kontaktthermometer (Marke: Qtemp 300) gemessene Temperatur zwischen den Heizplatten betrug nach 10 min 180°C.
• 9. Nun wurde die getrocknete Haarsträhne mit dem vorgeheizten Glätteisen geglättet. Dabei wurde auf folgende Führung des Glätteisens entlang der Haarfaser geachtet: 3×kurz (je 1 Sekunde pro Haarsträhne), 1×lang (5 Sekunden pro Haarsträhne), 3×kurz, 1×lang. Die erreichten Temperaturen schwanken dabei zwischen 146 bis 181°C.
• 10. Die Haarsträhne wurde für 2 Tage aufgehängt und ruhen gelassen.
• 11. Nach dieser Zeit wurde die Strähne unter den gleichen Bedingungen, wie in Punkt 1 angegeben, gewaschen, allerdings mit einem handelsüblichen nicht alkalischen Shampoo (Schaums 7 Kräuter).
• 12. Die Haarsträhne wurde zwischen Papiertüchern leicht ausgedrückt, jedoch nicht vollständig getrocknet.
• 13. Mit dem Föhn (Marke: BaByliss Typ S25) wurde die Haarsträhne getrocknet. Dabei wurde darauf geachtet, die Strähne möglichst glatt zu föhnen. Hilfsmittel hierbei war ein Kamm aus Horn. Die Föhntemperatur betrug ca. 80 bis 120°C.
• 14. Nun wurde die Haarsträhne ca. 30 Minuten auf einer Leine ausgehängt.
• 15. Im Anschluss wurde die Strähne in ein Becherglas mit Wasser getaucht bis sie vollständig benetzt war. Das Wasser wurde zwischen den Fingerspitzen leicht ausgedrückt. Daraufhin wurde die Strähne wieder an der Leine aufgehängt und an der Luft trockenen gelassen.
• 16. Das Glättungsergebnis wurde an der luftgetrockneten Strähne begutachtet.

For the proof of action, a hair strand of "Frizzy Hair" (15 grams, 15 cm in length, bound with epoxy resin at one end; VWR; PO # 4505423007149H) was used.

• 1. The strand of hair was washed with an alkaline shampoo: "Global Kerstin Clarifying Shampoo" (pH = 8.45). The water temperature was about 35 to 39 ° C. The hair strand was shampooed for about 1 minute with 1 gram of the said shampoo and then rinsed under clear water (about 1 minute).
• 2. The lock of hair was slightly squeezed between tissues but not completely dried.
• 3. In the case of knotted hair of the strand of hair, the strand was carefully unraveled with a comb of horn.
• 4. The strand of hair was as smooth as possible and placed straight on a watch glass and drizzled with the composition of the invention. The product was lightly rubbed in with a finger (wear gloves!). The strand of hair was well moistened.
• 5. The agent according to the invention acted for 1 hour.
• 6. Subsequently, excess product between two fingers was scraped off the lock of hair and the strand was subsequently squeezed between tissues so that it was no longer dripping wet.
• 7. With the hair dryer (brand: BaByliss type S25) the strand of hair was dried. Care was taken to blow dry the streak as smoothly as possible. Aid here was a comb of horn. The foehn temperature was about 80 to 120 ° C.
• 8. Meanwhile, the flat iron (brand: Schwarzkopf Professional, Model No: IP30A) was heated at the highest level (210 ° C) for at least 10 minutes. The temperature between the heating plates measured with a contact thermometer (brand: Qtemp 300) was 180 ° C. after 10 minutes.
• 9. Now the dried strand of hair was smoothed with the preheated flat iron. Care was taken to guide the smoothing along the hair fiber: 3 × short (1 second per strand of hair), 1 × long (5 seconds per strand of hair), 3 × short, 1 × long. The temperatures reached fluctuate between 146 and 181 ° C.
• 10. The hair strand was hung for 2 days and allowed to rest.
• 11. After this time, the tress was washed under the same conditions as indicated in point 1, but with a commercial non-alkaline shampoo (Schaums 7 Kräuter).
• 12. The lock of hair was slightly squeezed between tissues but not completely dried.
• 13. With the hair dryer (brand: BaByliss type S25) the strand of hair was dried. Care was taken to blow dry the streak as smoothly as possible. Aid here was a comb of horn. The foehn temperature was about 80 to 120 ° C.
• 14. Now the strand of hair was hung on a leash for about 30 minutes.
• 15. Thereafter, the tress was dipped in a beaker with water until completely wetted. The water was easily expressed between the fingertips. Then the tress was hung on a leash again and allowed to air dry.
• 16. The smoothing result was evaluated on the air-dried tress.

Hair tresses treated with the composition E1 according to the invention could be significantly better smoothed and had improved gloss and fewer split ends than tresses treated with the agent V1.

In addition, the smoothing result was good even after the strands were washed again, while the strands treated with the center V2 were no longer smooth after the second wash.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• DE 19756454 [0132]
• EP 998908 A2 [0136]

Claims (10)

Use of at least one (C ₂ to C ₅ ) dialkylsulfone for improving the condition of hair. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the improvement of the condition of the hair in the hardening, strengthening, sealing (in particular after the hair coloring or toning), restructuring, repair, stabilization, increase of gloss, volume and combability, the protection against environmental influences heat protection (when ironing and straightening with a hot iron), prolonging the hair straightening durability, avoiding and reducing hair splitting, shortening the drying time of the hair, increasing the elasticity and elasticity of the hair and the durability of the perm , Cosmetic agent containing, in a cosmetically acceptable carrier, based on the total weight of the composition, 0.1 to 40% by weight of at least one (C ₂ to C ₅ ) dialkylsulfone. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 3, characterized in that it contains the (C ₂ to C ₅ ) dialkylsulfone (s) in an amount of from 0.15 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 25% by weight. % and in particular from 0.25 to 20 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition contains. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 3 or 4, characterized in that it contains, based on its weight, from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight. -%, more preferably 0.75 to 20 wt .-% and in particular 1 to 15 wt .-% diethylsulfone. Cosmetic composition according to one of Claims 3 to 5, characterized in that it contains less than 0.2% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, of dimethyl sulfone, based on its weight, in which case especially preferred agents are free from Dimethylsulfone are. Cosmetic composition according to one of Claims 3 to 6, characterized in that it contains, based on its weight, from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 5 wt .-% of at least one film-forming polymer. Cosmetic composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the film-forming and / or hair fixative polymer is selected from at least one polymer selected from nonionic polymers based on ethylenically unsaturated monomers, nonionic cellulose derivatives, starch and their derivatives, Chitosan and derivatives of chitosan, cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic copolymers of 3- (C ₁ to C ₆ ) alkyl-1-vinylimidazolinium, homopolymers and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium, homopolymers and copolymers containing the structural unit of formula (M-1)

wherein R ² = -H or -CH ₃ , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} independently selected from (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkyl, (C ₁ to C ₄ ) alkenyl or (C ₂ to C ₄ ) -hydroxyalkyl groups, p = 1, 2, 3 or 4, q is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, amphoteric copolymers of N- (C ₆ to C ₁₀ ) -alkylacrylamide, amphoteric Copolymers of N- (C ₆ to C ₁₀ ) -alkyl methacrylamide, anionic polymers having carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups, anionic polyurethanes Cosmetic composition according to one of Claims 3 to 8, characterized in that it additionally contains, by weight, 40 to 95% by weight, preferably 45 to 92.5% by weight, more preferably 50 to 90% by weight. , even more preferably 55 to 87.5 wt .-% and in particular 60 to 85 wt .-% water. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 3 to 9, characterized in that it additionally contains, based on its weight, from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 7% by weight. - %, more preferably 2 to 6 wt .-% and in particular 2.5 to 5 wt .-% of at least one alcohol from the group ethanol, isopropanol or mixtures thereof.