WO2014146817A1

WO2014146817A1 - Hair styling emulsion

Info

Publication number: WO2014146817A1
Application number: PCT/EP2014/051986
Authority: WO
Inventors: Julia Gerjets; Nathalie Sors
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2013-03-18
Filing date: 2014-02-03
Publication date: 2014-09-25
Also published as: DE102013204683A1

Abstract

The invention relates to hair styling preparations in the form of emulsions without lipid constituents.

Description

Hairstyling emulsion

The invention relates to hair styling preparations in emulsion form, without liquid

Lipid Components

Styling emulsions are designed to give the hair a natural styling and hold it, without looking greasy or leaving a sticky residue. In addition to water, styling emulsions usually contain a fatty phase consisting of solid and liquid components as well as emulsifiers, thickeners and partially film formers.

EP 897299 A1 describes hair rinses with nonionic emulsifiers and silicone oils and fatty acid esters as fat phase.

FR 2861296 A1 describes an O / W emulsion for application to the hair comprising glyceryl and polyethylene glycol esters with fatty acids, a polymer and aloe vera as stabilizer.

Hair wax products are known from EP 1386601 B1, in which the ratio of emulsifier to wax is greater than one.

From WO 2010052876 A1 it is known to use film-forming polymers in conjunction with sugars or sugar alcohols as a hair styling agent.

From the prior art (for example EP 1013267 B1, JP 2003012469 A, WO 2010052876 A1, EP 1343457 B1, EP 1616553 B1, EP 2023891 A2 and DE 102009055281 A1)

Styling emulsions are known in which the lipid phase composed of solid as well as liquid lipids. The lipids solid at room temperature are responsible for the hair's hold and the liquid lipids are responsible for hair care and sensor technology.

The object of the invention is to provide a styling emulsion without the usual liquid

To provide lipid components, since liquid lipids lead both to a greasy shiny hairstyle, which promote stickiness and also significantly reduce the firming and hold. Surprisingly, it has been found that can be developed by a special combination of emulsifiers and solid waxes storage stable and sensory hair styling without liquid fat components with the styling benefit desired by the consumer. The term "liquid raw materials" refers to components having a melting point or range of less than 30 ° C., while solid raw materials are those having a melting point or range of at least 30 ° C. As a rule, the waxes, emulsifiers and fatty alcohols according to the invention have no sharp melting point. This is especially true of natural products. The phase transition from solid to liquid state extends to a narrow, a few degrees Celsius wide temperature range. According to the invention, when it is spoken of melting point and when the substance has a melting range, the complete melting range is above the temperature limit of 30 ° C.

The problem is solved and that is the essence of the invention, by a styling emulsion containing at least one wax A, at least one emulsifier B and at least one fatty alcohol C, characterized in that wax A, emulsifier B and fatty alcohol C each have a melting point of at least 30 ° C and the styling emulsion contain no further waxes, emulsifiers, fatty alcohols or fatty components or optionally derivatives thereof having an individual melting point below 30 ° C or the content of waxes, emulsifiers, fatty alcohols or fat components with an individual melting point below 30 ° C below 0, 5% (especially impurities).

Inventive styling emulsions have no or less than 0.5% of liquid fatty components with a melting point <30 ° C. Fat components within the meaning of the invention are emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, waxes and, optionally, their derivatives, which have a lipophilic character. To the fat components with a melting point below 30 ° C are also appropriate ingredients of perfume oils to count, if they are attributable to the properties of the fat components.

The emulsifiers, waxes, fatty acids and fatty alcohols used in the styling emulsions according to the invention are solid and have a melting point> 30 ° C.

Advantageously according to the invention it is one or more waxes from the group:

Beeswax (Cera Alba, Melting Point (m.p. 61-65 ° C), Synthetic Beeswax (Synthetic Beeswax, Mp 62-97 ° C), Cetearyl Alcohol Behenic Acid Ester (Cetearyl Behenate, Mp 60-65 ° C), Zeresin (Ceresin, Melting Point (m.p.) 70 ° C), Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Melting Point 85 ° C), Octacosanyl Stearic Acid Ester (Octacosanyl Stearate, mp 82 ° C), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Cera, mp 82-86 ° C), Microcrystalline Wax (Microcrystalline Wax, mp 70 ° C), Microcrystalline Wax (Cera Microcrystallina, m.p. 70 ° C) as wax A to use.

Especially advantageous as wax A are one or more waxes from the group: beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax.

The concentration of wax A is preferably 6 to 1 1 wt .-% (data always based on the total weight of the preparation), preferably 7 to 9 wt .-%.

Particularly advantageous is the use of several waxes with a melting point> 30 ° C, wherein the concentration of beeswax in the total preparation <3 wt .-% is.

According to the invention, it is advantageous to use one or more emulsifiers from the group:

Polyoxyethylene (21) stearyl ether (steareth-21, mp 45 ° C), polyoxyethylene (40) stearate (PEG-40 Stearate, mp 40-52 ° C), polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2, m.p. -50 'C), glyceryl stearate (m.p. 58-63'C), polyoxyethylene (20) cetylstearyl ether, (Ceteareth-20, m.p. 39-42'C), polyoxyethylene (3) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-3, m.p. 48-53 ° C), stearic acid (stearic acid, mp 70 ° C), palmitic acid (palmitic acid, mp 60-63 ° C) to be used as emulsifier B.

As emulsifier B, one or more emulsifiers from the group are particularly advantageous: polyoxyethylene (21) stearyl ether (steareth-21, mp 45 ° C.), polyoxyethylene (40) stearate (PEG-40 stearate, mp 40-52 ° C.) , Polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2, mp 40-50 ° C), glyceryl stearate (mp 58-63 ° C), stearic acid (mp 70 ° C).

Very particular advantage as emulsifier B is one or more emulsifiers from the group:

Polyoxyethylene (40) stearate (PEG-40 Stearate, mp 40-52 ° C), glyceryl stearate (mp 58-63 ° C) and stearic acid (mp 70 ° C).

The concentration of emulsifier B is preferably 3 to 13 wt .-%, preferably 3 to 9 wt .-%, particularly preferably 4 to 8 wt .-%.

According to the invention it is advantageous to use one or more fatty alcohols of C14 to C22, particularly preferred is: Cetyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol, mp 49 ° C), stearyl alcohol (stearyl alcohol, mp 56-59 ° C), cetylstearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol, mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol) as fatty alcohol C.

Especially advantageous as fatty alcohol C is the cetearyl alcohol.

The concentration of C14 to C22 fatty alcohols is 3 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 5 to 10, most preferably 5 to 8 wt .-%.

In addition, the styling emulsion is characterized in that 0-5 wt .-% of fixing polymers D are used.

It is advantageous according to the invention, one or more fixing polymers from the group: the anionic polymers such as acrylates copolymer preferably acrylates / hydroxy ester acrylate copolymer), cationic polymers such as quaternary polymer (Polyquaternium types) preferably Polyquaternium-1 1, non-ionic polymers like homopolymers of

Vinylpyrrolidone and Copolymierisate of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate preferably PVP or VP / VA copolymer use.

One or more polymers from the substance class of the acrylates / hydroxyesters acrylate copolymer are particularly advantageous as the fixing polymer.

In addition, the styling emulsion is characterized in that 2 to 8 wt .-% of a polyol E is used.

According to the invention, it is advantageous to use one or more polyols from the group:

Sorbitol, panthenol or glycerin. Particularly advantageous is the sorbitol as polyol.

In addition, the styling emulsion is characterized in that the pH is <4.7 and the viscosity> 50.000mPas. Examples:

The invention is illustrated by the following examples.

To prepare a styling preparation according to the invention, the fatty phase and the water phase are heated to 85.degree. After the phase combination and homogenization and optionally further homogenization at 55 ° C., the emulsion formed is cooled with stirring. A filling takes place between room temperature and 50 ° C.

Table 1: Inventive sample formulations

Table 2: Comparative formulations not according to the invention

The components used in the example formulations are available under the following trade names:

PEG-40 stearates: Myrj S40 (Croda), Eumulgin SA 40 (Cognis Corporation), Tego Acid S 40 P (Evonik Industries)

Glyceryl stearates: Tegin M pellets (Evonik Industries), Cutina GMS (Cognis GmbH), Akoline MG-P (Aarhus Karlshamn AB)

Steareth-21: Brij S721 (Croda), Tego Alkanol S 21 P (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH)

Steareth-2: Tego Alkanol S2P (Evonik Industries), Brij S2 (Croda, Inc.), Emulgin S2 (BASF) Cera Alba: Permulgin 1550 (Koster Keunen), Beeswax, White (Kahl & Co)

Synthetic Beeswax: Permulgin 3301 (Koster Keunen), Kester Wax K80H (Koster Keunen), Syncrowax BB-4 (Croda)

Copernicia Cerifera Cera: Carnauba Wax 2442 (Kahl), Carnauba Wax S (Croda), Koster Keunen Carnauba Wax (Koster Keunen, LLC)

Stearic Acid: Stearic Acid (Lipo Chemicals), Pristerene 4960 (Croda)

Cetearyl Alcohol: Lanette O (BASF Personal Care and Nutrition), Nafol 1618 (Sasol), Tego

Alkanol 6855 (Evonik)

Cetyl Alcohol: Lanette 16 (Cognis GmbH), Nacol 16-95 Alcohol (Sasol), Tego Alkanol 16 (Evonik)

Acrylates / Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer: Acudyne DHR Hair Fixative Resin (The Dow Chemical Company), Acudyne 180 Hair Fixative Resin (The Dow Chemical Company) Polyquaternium-1 1: Gafquat 755N (International Specialty Products), Luviquat PQ 1 1 PN (BASF Corporation )

PVP: Luviskol K30 Powder (BASF Corporation), Luviskol K90 Powder (BASF Corporation) VP / VA Copolymer: Luviskol VA 64W (BASF Corporation), Luviskol VA 73W (BASF Corporation)

Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer: Carbopol ETD 2020 Polymer (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer (Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.) Sorbitol: Neosorb (Roquette), Karion F Liquid (Merck)

Glycerin: Glycon G 100 (Lonza), Pricerine 9008 (Croda Europe, Ltd.), Emery 917 (Emery Oleochemicals)

PEG-90M: Polyox WSR-301 (The Dow Chemical Company), Rita PEO-18 (Rita Corporation) Octyldodecanol: Eutanol G (BASF Personal Care and Nutrition), Tegosoft G 20 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH)

Cera Microcristallina + Paraffin Liquidum: Merkur 717 (Sasol Wax), Penreco Ultima White Petrolatum (Calumet Specialty Products)

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoates: Cetiol AB (BASF Personal Care and Nutrition Gmbh), Crodamol AB (Croda, Inc.) Tegosoft TN 2 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH)

Paraffinum Liquidum: PIONIER 6301 (Hansen & Rosenthal KG), Shell Ondina 927 (Sheall & Dea)

Dimethicone: Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid (Dow Coming Corporation), Element 14 (Momentive Performance Materials)

Various comparative experiments were carried out with the example preparations. For this purpose, the following preparation and evaluation of hair strands (caucasian, undamaged, 10 ^* 2cm, 1, 5g) was carried out by trained persons.

The hair strands are combed and then wetted evenly with 0.2 g of the preparation to be tested. The hair strands were not previously soaked. Subsequently, the strands are hung for 4 hours to dry at 22 ° C and 55% relative humidity. After the drying process, the holding level (rigidity / strength) of the strand is assessed blinded and followed by the sensory evaluation (optical and haptic with regard to strengthening, sensor and tackiness) by trained panels on the basis of a five-step scale. Subsequently, the mean values were calculated for each product and criterion and thus the respective recipes were compared with each other.

The following test results could be achieved:

consolidation

Table 3: Result Styling Emulsion 17 vs. 13 (17: 3% Cera Microcristallina + Paraffinum Liquidum; 13 without)

Explanation of the rating:

1 - very low hold or consolidation / 5 - very high hold or consolidation sensors

Table 6: Result Styling Emulsion 17 vs. 13 (17: 3% Cera Microcristallina +

Paraffin Liquidum; 13 without)

Table 7: Result Styling Emulsion 19 vs. 14 (19: 2% paraffinum liquidum, 14 without)

Explanation of the rating:

1 - very greasy / 5 - not greasy at all

stickiness

Table 9: Result Styling Emulsion 17 vs. 13 (17: 3% Cera Microcristallina + Paraffinum Liquidum; 13 without)

Table 10: Result Styling Emulsion 19 vs. 14 (19: 2% paraffinum liquidum, 14 without)

Explanation of the rating:

1 - not sticky / 5 - very sticky

The hair tresses prepared with the styling emulsion were evaluated in the laboratory by 3 trained subjects with regard to hold / firmness, greasiness and stickiness.

The formulas without the liquid lipids cut off significantly better in terms of strengthening.

Sensory, the preparations with liquid lipids are rated as significantly greasier in appearance and stickier. The comparative experiments show that the styling emulsions according to the invention were able to achieve outstanding performance over the known preparations. It has been possible to significantly reduce the undesirable parameters of stickiness and greasiness, while at the same time significantly increasing the most important parameters for the consumer - strengthening. In the majority of styling products, increased firming or holding performance is associated with increased stickiness, which could be avoided with these styling emulsions according to the invention. Thus, the formulations according to the invention are distinguished by an outstanding, remarkable overall styling performance.

Claims

claims

1 . Hair styling preparations in emulsion form

at least one wax A,

at least one emulsifier B,

at least one fatty alcohol C,

optionally up to 5% by weight of one or more fixing polymers D and at least one polyol E,

characterized in that the melting point of wax A, emulsifier B and fatty alcohol C is at least 30 ° C and

the concentration of liquid components from the group of emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, waxes and optionally their derivatives (fat components) having a melting point <30 ° C MAXIMUM 0,5 wt -%, and

that the pH of the preparation is <4.7 and

the viscosity is> 50.000mPas.

2. hairstyling preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that as wax A at least one wax is selected from the group

Beeswax (Cera Alba, mp 61-65 ° C), Synthetic Beeswax (Synthetic Beeswax, mp 62-97 ° C), cetearyl alcohol behenic acid ester (cetearyl behenate, mp 60-65 ° C), Zeresin (Ceresin, mp 70 ° C), Hydrogenated Castor Oil (mp 85 ° C), Octacosanyl Stearic Acid Ester (Octacosanyl Stearate, mp 82 ° C), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Mp 82-86 ° C), microcrystalline wax (microcrystalline wax, mp 70 ° C), microcrystalline wax (Cera Microcrystallina, mp 65-70 ° C).

3. Hairstyling preparation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as emulsifier B at least one emulsifier is selected from the group:

Polyoxyethylene (21) stearyl ether (steareth-21, mp 45 ° C),

Polyoxyethylene (40) stearate (PEG-40 Stearate, m.p. 40-52'C), polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2, m.p. 40-50 ° C), glyceryl stearate (m.p. 58-63'C) , Polyoxyethylene (20) cetylstearyl ether, (Ceteareth-20, mp 39-42 'C), polyoxyethylene (3) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-3, mp 48-53' C) stearic acid (stearic acid, mp 70 ° C). Palmitic acid (palmitic acid, mp 60-63 ° C).

4. Hairstyling preparation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one fatty alcohol C is a C14-22 fatty alcohol.

5. hairstyling preparation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that as fatty alcohol C at least one fatty alcohol is selected from the group:

Cetyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol, mp 49 ° C), stearyl alcohol (stearyl alcohol, mp 56-59 ° C), cetylstearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol, mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol).

6. hairstyling preparation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the optionally present fixing polymer D is a polymer from the groups:

anionic polymers, preferably acrylates copolymers, more preferably acrylates / hydroxyesters acrylates copolymer,

cationic polymers preferably quaternary polymers (polyquaternium types), particularly preferably polyquaternium-1 1,

nonionic polymers, preferably homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and

Copolymisizates of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, particularly preferably PVP and / or VP / VA copolymer.

7. hair styling preparation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that is contained as a polyol E sorbitol, panthenol and / or glycerol.

8. hair styling according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of wax A 6 to 1 1 wt .-%, preferably 7 to 9 wt .-%, is.

9. Hairstyling preparation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of emulsifier B 3 to 13 wt .-%, preferably 3 to 9 wt .-%, particularly preferably 4 to 8 wt .-%, is.

10. Hairstyling preparation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of C14-22 fatty alcohols 3 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 5 to 10, most preferably 5 to 8 wt .-%, is.

1. Use of a preparation having

at least one wax A,

at least one emulsifier B,

at least one fatty alcohol C,

the concentration of liquid emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, waxes and optionally their derivatives (fat components) with a melting point <30 ° C maximum

0.5% by weight and

that the pH of the preparation is <4.7 and

the viscosity is> 50.000mPas

for styling the hair.