DE102013204685A1 - Hairstyling emulsion - Google Patents
Hairstyling emulsion Download PDFInfo
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- DE102013204685A1 DE102013204685A1 DE201310204685 DE102013204685A DE102013204685A1 DE 102013204685 A1 DE102013204685 A1 DE 102013204685A1 DE 201310204685 DE201310204685 DE 201310204685 DE 102013204685 A DE102013204685 A DE 102013204685A DE 102013204685 A1 DE102013204685 A1 DE 102013204685A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
- A61K8/0229—Sticks
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
- A61K8/8182—Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
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- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/927—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
- A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/42—Colour properties
- A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
- A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
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Abstract
Die Erfindung betrifft Haarstylingzubereitungen in Emulsionsform, ohne flüssige Lipidbestandteile, aufweisend mindestens ein Pigment.The invention relates to hair styling preparations in emulsion form, without liquid lipid components, comprising at least one pigment.
Description
Die Erfindung betrifft Haarstylingzubereitungen in Emulsionsform, ohne flüssige Lipidbestandteile, aufweisend mindestens ein Pigment. The invention relates to hair styling preparations in emulsion form, without liquid lipid components, comprising at least one pigment.
Stylingemulsionen sollen dem Haar ein natürliches Styling verleihen und ihm Halt geben, ohne fettig auszusehen oder einen klebrigen Rückstand zu hinterlassen. Stylingemulsionen enthalten üblicherweise neben Wasser eine Fettphase bestehend aus festen und flüssigen Komponenten sowie Emulgatoren, Verdickern und teilweise Filmbildnern. Styling emulsions are designed to give the hair a natural styling and hold it, without looking greasy or leaving a sticky residue. In addition to water, styling emulsions usually contain a fatty phase consisting of solid and liquid components as well as emulsifiers, thickeners and partially film formers.
In der
Die
Aus der
Aus der
Aus dem Stand der Technik (z.B.
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Ein vielfach von Verbrauchern geäußerter Wunsch ist die reversible Abdeckung erster grauer Haare ohne chemische Schädigung mit gleichzeitigem Stylingeffekt. Zur Abdeckung erster grauer Haare stehen Verbrauchern hauptsächlich permanente Färbungen zur Verfügung. Die Hemmschwelle zur Verwendung dieser Produkte ist jedoch, gerade bei Männern, sehr hoch. Des Weiteren gibt es Haarmascara oder Färbestifte, die jedoch in der Handhabung schwierig sind und z. T. stark abfärben oder schlecht auswaschbar sind. Bislang steht kein Produkt am Markt zur Verfügung, mit dem sich die Haare gleichzeitig färben und stylen lassen, so dass der Verbraucher immer noch zwei Produkte verwenden muss. A consumer demand is reversible coverage of the first gray hair without chemical damage with simultaneous styling effect. To cover the first gray hair consumers are mainly permanent dyeings available. The inhibition threshold for the use of these products, however, is very high, especially in men. Furthermore, there are Haarmascara or dyeing sticks, which are difficult to handle and z. T. strongly rub off or are bad washable. So far, there is no product available on the market that can dye and style the hair at the same time, so that the consumer still has to use two products.
Aufgabe der Erfindung ist es, eine Stylingemulsion ohne die üblichen flüssigen Lipidkomponenten bereitzustellen, da flüssige Lipide sowohl zu einer fettig-glänzenden Frisur führen, die Klebrigkeit begünstigen und auch die Festigung und den Halt erheblich reduzieren, mit der es möglich ist, auch graue Haare, möglichst abriebfest, zu kaschieren bzw. abzudecken. The object of the invention is to provide a styling emulsion without the usual liquid lipid components, since liquid lipids lead both to a greasy-shiny hairstyle, favor the stickiness and also significantly reduce the firmness and the hold, with which it is possible, even gray hair, as abrasion resistant, to hide or cover.
Überraschenderweise zeigte sich, dass sich durch eine spezielle Kombination von Emulgatoren und festen Wachsen lagerstabile und sensorisch verbesserte Haarstylingemulsionen ohne flüssige Fettkomponenten bereitstellen lassen, die wenn sie auch einen Gehalt an Pigmenten aufweisen, dem Verbraucher neben dem gewünschten Styling-Benefit auch eine Grauhaarabdeckung bieten. Surprisingly, it has been found that can be prepared by a special combination of emulsifiers and solid waxes storage stable and sensory hair styling without liquid fat components, which, although they have a content of pigments, offer the consumer in addition to the desired styling benefit also a gray hair coverage.
Als flüssige Rohstoffe werden Komponenten mit einem Schmelzpunkt bzw. -bereich von unter 30°C bezeichnet, als feste Rohstoffe solche mit einem Schmelzpunkt bzw. -bereich von mindestens 30°C. In der Regel weisen die erfindungsgemäßen Wachse, Emulgatoren und Fettalkohole keinen scharfen Schmelzpunkt auf. Dies ist insbesondere bei Naturstoffen so. Der Phasenübergang vom festen zum flüssigen Zustand erstreckt sich auf einen schmalen, einige Grad Celsius breiten, Temperaturbereich. Erfindungsgemäß bedeutet es, wenn von Schmelzpunkt gesprochen wird und wenn die Substanz einen Schmelzbereich aufweist, der komplette Schmelzbereich oberhalb der Temperaturgrenze von 30° C liegt. As liquid raw materials components with a melting point or range of less than 30 ° C, referred to as solid raw materials those having a melting point or range of at least 30 ° C. As a rule, the waxes, emulsifiers and fatty alcohols according to the invention have no sharp melting point. This is especially true of natural products. The phase transition from solid to liquid state extends to a narrow, a few degrees Celsius wide temperature range. According to the invention, when it is spoken of melting point and when the substance has a melting range, the complete melting range is above the temperature limit of 30 ° C.
Gelöst wird die Aufgabe und das ist der Kern der Erfindung, durch eine Stylingemulsion enthaltend mindestens ein Wachs A, mindestens ein Emulgator B, mindestens ein Fettalkohol C, gegebenenfalls bis zu 5 Gew.-% eines oder mehrerer fixierender Polymere D, mindestens ein Polyol E und mindestens ein Pigment F, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass Wachs A, Emulgator B und Fettalkohol C jeweils einen Schmelzpunkt von mindestens 30°C aufweisen und die Stylingemulsion keine weiteren Wachse, Emulgatoren, Fettalkohole oder Fettkomponenten oder optional deren Derivate mit einem individuellem Schmelzpunkt unter 30°C enthalten bzw. der Gehalt an Wachsen, Emulgatoren, Fettalkoholen oder Fettkomponenten mit einem individuellem Schmelzpunkt unter 30°C unter 0,5% beträgt (insbesondere Verunreinigungen). The problem is solved and that is the essence of the invention, by a styling emulsion comprising at least one wax A, at least one emulsifier B, at least one fatty alcohol C, optionally up to 5 wt .-% of one or more fixing polymers D, at least one polyol E. and at least one pigment F, characterized in that wax A, emulsifier B and fatty alcohol C each have a melting point of at least 30 ° C and the styling emulsion contains no further waxes, emulsifiers, fatty alcohols or fatty components or optionally their derivatives with an individual melting point below 30 ° C or the content on waxes, emulsifiers, fatty alcohols or fat components with an individual melting point below 30 ° C below 0.5% (in particular impurities).
Erfindungsgemäße Stylingemulsionen weisen keine bzw. unter keine flüssigen Fettkomponenten mit einem Schmelzpunkt < 30°C auf. Fettkomponenten im Sinne der Erfindung sind Emulgatoren, Fettalkohole, Fettsäuren, Wachse sowie optional deren Derivate, die einen lipophilen Charakter aufweisen. Zu den Fettkomponenten mit einem Schmelzpunkt unter 30°C sind nicht entsprechende Bestandteile von Parfümölen zu zählen, wenn diese von den Eigenschaften her den Fettkomponenten zuzurechnen sind. Inventive styling emulsions have no or no liquid fat components with a melting point <30 ° C. Fat components within the meaning of the invention are emulsifiers, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, waxes and, optionally, their derivatives, which have a lipophilic character. Among the fat components with a melting point below 30 ° C are not appropriate ingredients of perfume oils to count, if they are attributable to the properties of the fat components.
Die in erfindungsgemäßen Stylingemulsionen eingesetzten Emulgatoren, Wachse, Fettsäuren und Fettalkohole sind fest und haben einen Schmelzpunkt ≥ 30°C. The emulsifiers, waxes, fatty acids and fatty alcohols used in the styling emulsions according to the invention are solid and have a melting point ≥ 30 ° C.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft ist es ein oder mehrere Wachse aus der Gruppe: Bienenwachs (Cera Alba; Schmelzpunkt (Schmp. 61–65°C), Synthetisches Bienenwachs (Synthetic Beeswax; Schmp. 62–97°C), Cetearylalkohol-Behensäure-Ester (Cetearyl Behenate; Schmp. 60–65°C), Zeresin (Ceresin; Schmelzpunkt (Schmp.). 70°C), Hydriertes Rizinusöl (Hydrogenated Castor Oil; Schmp. 85°C), Octacosanyl Stearinsäureester (Octacosanyl Stearate; Schmp. 82°C), Carnauba Wachs (Copernicia Cerifera Cera; Schmp. 82–86°C), Mikrokristallines Wachs (Microcrystalline Wax; Schmp. 70°C), Mikrokristallines Wachs (Cera Microcrystallina; Schmp. 65–70°C) als Wachs A zu verwenden. According to the invention, it is advantageous to use one or more waxes from the group: beeswax (Cera Alba, melting point (mp 61-65 ° C.), synthetic beeswax (synthetic beeswax, mp 62-97 ° C.), cetearyl alcohol-behenic acid ester (cetearyl Behenates, mp 60-65 ° C), ceresin (ceresin, melting point (m.p.), 70 ° C), hydrogenated castor oil (mp 85 ° C), octacosanyl stearic acid ester (octacosanyl stearate, mp 82 ° C), Carnauba wax (Copernicia Cerifera Cera, mp 82-86 ° C), Microcrystalline wax (Microcrystalline wax, mp 70 ° C), Microcrystalline wax (Cera Microcrystallina, mp 65-70 ° C) as wax A. use.
Ganz besonders Vorteilhaft sind als Wachs A ein oder mehrere Wachse aus der Gruppe: Synthetisches Bienenwachs, Carnauba Wachs. Especially advantageous as wax A are one or more waxes from the group: synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax.
Die Konzentration an Wachs A beträgt dabei bevorzugt 3 bis 7 Gew.-% (Angaben immer bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung), bevorzugt 4 bis 6 Gew.-%. The concentration of wax A is preferably 3 to 7 wt .-% (data always based on the total weight of the preparation), preferably 4 to 6 wt .-%.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft ist es, ein oder mehrere Emulgatoren aus der Gruppe: Polyoxyethylen(21) Stearylether (Steareth-21; Schmp. 45°C), Polyoxyethylen(40)stearat (PEG-40 Stearate, Schmp. 40–52°C), Polyoxyethylen(2) Stearylether (Steareth-2, Schmp. 40–50°C), Glyceryl Stearate (Schmp. 58–63°C), Polyoxyethylen (20) cetylstearylether, (Ceteareth-20, Schmp. 39–42°C), Polyoxyethylen (3) cetylstearylether (Ceteareth-3, Schmp. 48–53°C), Stearinsäure (Stearic acid; Schmp. 70°C), Palmitinsäure (Palmitic acid; Schmp. 60–63°C) als Emulgator B zu verwenden. It is advantageous according to the invention to use one or more emulsifiers from the group: polyoxyethylene (21) stearyl ether (steareth-21, mp 45 ° C.), polyoxyethylene (40) stearate (PEG-40 stearate, mp 40-52 ° C.), Polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2, mp 40-50 ° C), glyceryl stearate (mp 58-63 ° C), polyoxyethylene (20) cetyl stearyl ether, (ceteareth-20, mp 39-42 ° C) , Polyoxyethylene (3) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-3, mp 48-53 ° C), stearic acid (mp 70 ° C), palmitic acid (palmitic acid, mp 60-63 ° C) to use as emulsifier B. ,
Besonders vorteilhaft sind als Emulgator B ein oder mehrere Emulgatoren aus der Gruppe: Polyoxyethylen(21) Stearylether (Steareth-21; Schmp. 45°C), Polyoxyethylen(40)stearat (PEG-40 Stearate, Schmp. 40–52°C), Polyoxyethylen(2) Stearylether (Steareth-2, Schmp. 40–50°C), Glyceryl Stearate (Schmp. 58–63°C), Stearinsäure (Stearic acid; Schmp. 70°C). As emulsifier B, one or more emulsifiers from the group are particularly advantageous: polyoxyethylene (21) stearyl ether (steareth-21, mp 45 ° C.), polyoxyethylene (40) stearate (PEG-40 stearate, mp 40-52 ° C.) , Polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2, mp 40-50 ° C), glyceryl stearate (mp 58-63 ° C), stearic acid (mp 70 ° C).
Ganz besonders vorteilhaft sind als Emulgator B ein oder mehrere Emulgatoren aus der Gruppe:
Polyoxyethylen(40)stearat (PEG-40 Stearate, Schmp. 40–52°C), Glyceryl Stearate (Schmp. 58–63°C) und Stearinsäure (Stearic acid; Schmp. 70°C). Very particular advantage as emulsifier B is one or more emulsifiers from the group:
Polyoxyethylene (40) stearate (PEG-40 Stearate, mp 40-52 ° C), glyceryl stearate (mp 58-63 ° C) and stearic acid (mp 70 ° C).
Die Konzentration an Emulgator B beträgt dabei bevorzugt 3 bis 13 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 3 bis 9 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 4 bis 8 Gew.-%. The concentration of emulsifier B is preferably 3 to 13 wt .-%, preferably 3 to 9 wt .-%, particularly preferably 4 to 8 wt .-%.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft ist es ein oder mehrere Fettalkohole von C14 bis C22 einzusetzen, besonders bevorzugt ist:
Cetylalkohol (Cetyl Alcohol, Schmp. 49°C), Stearylalkohol (Stearyl Alcohol, Schmp. 56–59°C), Cetylstearylalkohol (Cetearyl Alcohol, Mischung aus Cetyl- und Stearylalkohol) als Fettalkohol C zu verwenden. According to the invention it is advantageous to use one or more fatty alcohols of C14 to C22, particularly preferred is:
Cetyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol, mp 49 ° C), stearyl alcohol (stearyl alcohol, mp 56-59 ° C), cetylstearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol, mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol) as fatty alcohol C.
Ganz besonders vorteilhaft ist als Fettalkohol C der Cetearyl Alkohol. Die Konzentration der C14 bis C22 Fettalkohole beträgt 3 bis 20 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 5 bis 10, ganz besonders bevorzugt 5 bis 8 Gew.-%. Especially advantageous as fatty alcohol C is the cetearyl alcohol. The concentration of C14 to C22 fatty alcohols is 3 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 5 to 10, most preferably 5 to 8 wt .-%.
Darüber hinaus ist die Stylingemulsion dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass 0–5 Gew.-% an fixierenden Polymeren D eingesetzt werden. In addition, the styling emulsion is characterized in that 0-5 wt .-% of fixing polymers D are used.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft ist es, ein oder mehrere fixierende Polymere aus der Gruppe: der anionischen Polymere wie Acrylates Copolymer bevorzugt Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer oder Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, kationischen Polymere wie quarternäre Polymer (Polyquaternium-Typen) bevorzugt Polyquaternium-11, nicht-ionischen Polymere wie Homopolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons und Copolymierisate aus Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat bevorzugt PVP oder VP/VA Copolymer einzusetzen. According to the invention, it is advantageous to use one or more fixing polymers from the group of anionic polymers such as acrylates copolymer preferably acrylates / hydroxyesters acrylates copolymer or acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, cationic polymers such as quaternary polymers (polyquaternium types) preferably polyquaternium-11 , Nonionic polymers such as homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and Copolymierisate of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate preferably PVP or VP / VA copolymer use.
Besonders vorteilhaft sind als fixierendes Polymer ein oder mehrere Polymere aus der Substanzklasse der Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer. One or more polymers from the substance class of the acrylates / hydroxyesters acrylate copolymer are particularly advantageous as the fixing polymer.
Darüber hinaus ist die Stylingemulsion dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass 2 bis 8 Gew.-% eines Polyols E eingesetzt wird. In addition, the styling emulsion is characterized in that 2 to 8 wt .-% of a polyol E is used.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft ist es, ein oder mehrere Polyole aus der Gruppe:
Sorbitol, Panthenol oder Glycerin einzusetzen. Besonders vorteilhaft ist als Polyol das Sorbitol. According to the invention, it is advantageous to use one or more polyols from the group:
Sorbitol, panthenol or glycerin. Particularly advantageous is the sorbitol as polyol.
Erfindungsgemäße Stylingemulsionen weisen mindestens ein Pigment F auf. Pigmente im Sinne der Erfindung sind farbgebende Substanzen, die unlöslich bzw. schwerlöslich sind und in der Zubereitung in Form von kleinen Partikeln vorliegen. Bevorzugt sind anorganische Metalloxide, insbesondere Eisenoxide, als Pigment F einzusetzen. Inventive styling emulsions have at least one pigment F. Pigments according to the invention are coloring substances which are insoluble or sparingly soluble and are present in the preparation in the form of small particles. Preference is given to using inorganic metal oxides, in particular iron oxides, as pigment F.
Ganz besonders bevorzugt ist es, ein oder mehrere Pigmente aus der Gruppe: CI 77499 (z.B. Sicovit Black 80 E 172 (BASF)), CI 77492 und CI 77491 und CI 77499 (z.B. Sicovitbraun 70 E 172 (Rockwood)), CI 77491 und CI 77499 (z.B. Sicovit Braun 75 E172 (Rockwood)), CI 77492 (z.B.Sicovit Gelb 10 E172 (Rockwood)), CI 77288 (z.B. Unipure Green LC 788 (Sensient)), CI 77491(z.B. Sicovit Rot 30 E172 (Rockwood)), CI 42090 (z.B. C39-4433 Blue Lake (Sun Chemical Corporation)) als Pigment F zu verwenden. It is very particularly preferred to use one or more pigments from the group: CI 77499 (eg Sicovit Black 80 E 172 (BASF)), CI 77492 and CI 77491 and CI 77499 (eg Sicovit brown 70 E 172 (Rockwood)), CI 77491 and CI 77499 (eg Sicovit Braun 75 E172 (Rockwood)), CI 77492 (eg Sicovit Yellow 10 E172 (Rockwood)), CI 77288 (eg Unipure Green LC 788 (Sensient)), CI 77491 (eg Sicovit Rot 30 E172 (Rockwood) ), CI 42090 (eg C39-4433 Blue Lake (Sun Chemical Corporation)) as Pigment F.
Darüber hinaus ist die Stylingemulsion dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass 0–5 Gew.-% an fixierenden Polymeren D eingesetzt werden. In addition, the styling emulsion is characterized in that 0-5 wt .-% of fixing polymers D are used.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft ist es, ein oder mehrere fixierende Polymere aus der Gruppe: der anionischen Polymere wie Acrylates Copolymer bevorzugt Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer oder Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, kationischen Polymere wie quarternäre Polymer (Polyquaternium-Typen) bevorzugt Polyquaternium-11, nicht-ionischen Polymere wie Homopolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons und Copolymierisate aus Vinylpyrrolidon und Vinylacetat bevorzugt PVP oder VP/VA Copolymer einzusetzen. According to the invention, it is advantageous to use one or more fixing polymers from the group of anionic polymers such as acrylates copolymer preferably acrylates / hydroxyesters acrylates copolymer or acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, cationic polymers such as quaternary polymers (polyquaternium types) preferably polyquaternium-11 , Nonionic polymers such as homopolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and Copolymierisate of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate preferably PVP or VP / VA copolymer use.
Besonders vorteilhaft sind als fixierendes Polymer ein oder mehrere Polymere aus der Substanzklasse der PQ-11. One or more polymers from the substance class of PQ-11 are particularly advantageous as a fixing polymer.
Darüber hinaus ist die Stylingemulsion dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass 2 bis 8 Gew.-% eines Polyols E eingesetzt wird. In addition, the styling emulsion is characterized in that 2 to 8 wt .-% of a polyol E is used.
Erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft ist es, ein oder mehrere Polyole aus der Gruppe: Sorbitol, Panthenol oder Glycerin einzusetzen. Besonders vorteilhaft ist als Polyol das Sorbitol. According to the invention, it is advantageous to use one or more polyols from the group: sorbitol, panthenol or glycerol. Particularly advantageous is the sorbitol as polyol.
Bevorzugt ist, dass die Zubereitung keine nichtionogenen synthetische Polymere enthält. Zudem wird die Stylingemulsion dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der pH-Wert < 4,7 und die Viskosität > 50.000mPas betragen. It is preferred that the preparation does not contain any nonionic synthetic polymers. In addition, the styling emulsion is characterized in that the pH is <4.7 and the viscosity> 50.000mPas.
Beispiele: Examples:
Die Erfindung wird anhand der folgenden Beispiele verdeutlicht. The invention is illustrated by the following examples.
Zur Herstellung einer erfindungsgemäßen Stylingzubereitung werden Fettphase und Wasserphase auf 85°C erhitzt. Bei 85°C Pigmente in die Wasserphase einstreuen und einhomogenisieren. Nach der Phasenvereinigung und Homogenisation und ggf. einer weiteren Homogenisation bei 55°C, wird die gebildete Emulsion unter Rühren abgekühlt. Eine Abfüllung erfolgt zwischen Raumtemperatur und 50°C. Tabelle 1: Erfindungsgemäße Beispielrezepturen
Die in den Beispielrezepturen verwendeten Komponenten sind unter den folgenden Handelsnamen erhältlich:
PEG-40 Stearate: Myrj S40 (Croda), Eumulgin SA 40 (Cognis Corporation), Tego Acid S 40 P (Evonik Industries)
Glyceryl Stearate: Tegin M Pellets (Evonik Industries), Cutina GMS (Cognis GmbH), Akoline MG-P (AarhusKarlshamn AB)
Steareth-21: Brij S721 (Croda), Tego Alkanol S 21 P (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH)
Steareth-2: Tego Alkanol S2P (Evonik Industries), Brij S2 (Croda, Inc.), Emulgin S2 (BASF)
Cera Alba: Permulgin 1550 (Koster Keunen), Beeswax, White (Kahl & Co)
Synthetic Beeswax: Permulgin 3301 (Koster Keunen), Kester Wax K80H (Koster Keunen), Syncrowax BB-4 (Croda)
Copernicia Cerifera Cera: Kahlwax 2442 (Kahl), Carnauba Wax S (Croda), Koster Keunen Carnauba Wax (Koster Keunen)
Stearic acid: Stearic Acid (Lipo Chemicals), Pristerene 4960 (Croda)
Cetearyl Alcohol: Lanette O (BASF Personal Care and Nutrition), Nafol 1618 (Sasol), Tego Alkanol 6855 (Evonik)
Cetyl Alcohol: Lanette 16 (Cognis GmbH), Nacol 16-95 (Sasol), Tego Alkanol 16 (Evonik)
Acrylates/Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer: Acudyne DHR Hair Fixative Resin (Dow Chemical), Acudyne 180 Hair Fixative Resin (Dow Chemical)
Polyquaternium-11: Gafquat 755N (International Specialty Products), Luviquat PQ 11 PN (BASF Corporation)
PVP: Luviskol K30 Powder (BASF Corporation), Luviskol K90 Powder (BASF Corporation)
VP/VA Copolymer: Luviskol VA 64W (BASF Corporation), Luviskol VA 73W (BASF Corporation)
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer: Carbopol ETD 2020 Polymer (Lubrizol Advanced Materials), Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer (Lubrizol Advanced Materials)
Sorbitol: Neosorb (Roquette), Karion F Liquid (Merck)
Glycerin: Glycon G 100 (Lonza), Pricerine 9008 (Croda), Emery 917 (Emery Oleochemicals) PEG-90M: Polyox WSR-301 Leo NF Grade (Dow Chemical), Rita PEO-18 (Rita Corporation)
Trisodium EDTA: Trisodium EDTA (Beiersdorf)
CI 77499: Sicovit Black 80 E 172 (BASF)
CI 77492 + CI 77491+CI 77499: Sicovitbraun 70 E 172 (Rockwood)
CI 77491 + CI 77499: Sicovit Braun 75 E172 (Rockwood)
CI 77492: Sicovit Gelb 10 E172 (Rockwood)
CI 77288: Unipure Green LC 788 (Sensient)
CI 77491: Sicovit Rot 30 E172 (Rockwood)
CI 42090: C39-4433 Blue Lake (Sun Chemical Corporation)
Silica Dimethyl Silylate: Aerosil R972 (Reher & Ramsden)
VP/ Hexadecene Copolymer: Unimer U-151 (Induchem)
C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate: Kesterwachs K 80 P (Koster Keunen)
C18-36 Acid Triglyceride: Syncrowax HGLC (Croda)
Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate: Sustane SAIB (Eastman)
Acrylates/ Octylacrylamide Copolymer: Dermacryl 79 (28-4979) (Akzo Nobel)
VP/ Eicosene Copolymer: Unimer U-15 (Induchem)
Trimethylsiloxysilicate: Belsil TMS 803 (Wacker)
Polyethylene: Micropoly 220 (Impag)
Trimethylsiloxysilicate + Polypropylsilsesquioxane: Dow Corning MQ-1640 Flake Resin (Dow Corning) The components used in the example formulations are available under the following trade names:
PEG-40 stearates: Myrj S40 (Croda), Eumulgin SA 40 (Cognis Corporation), Tego Acid S 40 P (Evonik Industries)
Glyceryl stearates: Tegin M pellets (Evonik Industries), Cutina GMS (Cognis GmbH), Akoline MG-P (Aarhus Karlshamn AB)
Steareth-21: Brij S721 (Croda), Tego Alkanol S 21 P (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH)
Steareth-2: Tego Alkanol S2P (Evonik Industries), Brij S2 (Croda, Inc.), Emulgin S2 (BASF)
Cera Alba: Permulgin 1550 (Koster Keunen), Beeswax, White (Kahl & Co)
Synthetic Beeswax: Permulgin 3301 (Koster Keunen), Kester Wax K80H (Koster Keunen), Syncrowax BB-4 (Croda)
Copernicia Cerifera Cera: Kahlwax 2442 (Kahl), Carnauba Wax S (Croda), Koster Keunen Carnauba Wax (Koster Keunen)
Stearic Acid: Stearic Acid (Lipo Chemicals), Pristerene 4960 (Croda)
Cetearyl Alcohol: Lanette O (BASF Personal Care and Nutrition), Nafol 1618 (Sasol), Tego Alkanol 6855 (Evonik)
Cetyl Alcohol: Lanette 16 (Cognis GmbH), Nacol 16-95 (Sasol), Tego Alkanol 16 (Evonik)
Acrylates / Hydroxyesters Acrylates Copolymer: Acudyne DHR Hair Fixative Resin (Dow Chemical), Acudyne 180 Hair Fixative Resin (Dow Chemical)
Polyquaternium-11: Gafquat 755N (International Specialty Products), Luviquat PQ 11 PN (BASF Corporation)
PVP: Luviskol K30 Powder (BASF Corporation), Luviskol K90 Powder (BASF Corporation)
VP / VA Copolymer: Luviskol VA 64W (BASF Corporation), Luviskol VA 73W (BASF Corporation)
Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer: Carbopol ETD 2020 Polymer (Lubrizol Advanced Materials), Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer (Lubrizol Advanced Materials)
Sorbitol: Neosorb (Roquette), Karion F Liquid (Merck)
Glycerine: Glycon G 100 (Lonza), Pricerine 9008 (Croda), Emery 917 (Emery Oleochemicals) PEG-90M: Polyox WSR-301 Leo NF Grade (Dow Chemical), Rita PEO-18 (Rita Corporation)
Trisodium EDTA: Trisodium EDTA (Beiersdorf)
CI 77499: Sicovit Black 80 E 172 (BASF)
CI 77492 + CI 77491 + CI 77499: Sicovit brown 70 E 172 (Rockwood)
CI 77491 + CI 77499: Sicovit Brown 75 E172 (Rockwood)
CI 77492:
CI 77288: Unipure Green LC 788 (Sensient)
CI 77491:
CI 42090: C39-4433 Blue Lake (Sun Chemical Corporation)
Silica Dimethyl Silylate: Aerosil R972 (Reher & Ramsden)
VP / hexadecene copolymer: Unimer U-151 (Induchem)
C18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate: Kester wax K 80 P (Koster Keunen)
C18-36 Acid triglycerides: Syncrowax HGLC (Croda)
Sucrose Acetate Isobutyrate: Sustane SAIB (Eastman)
Acrylates / Octylacrylamides Copolymer: Dermacryl 79 (28-4979) (Akzo Nobel)
VP / eicosene copolymer: Unimer U-15 (Induchem)
Trimethylsiloxysilicate: Belsil TMS 803 (Wacker)
Polyethylene: Micropoly 220 (Impag)
Trimethylsiloxysilicate + Polypropylsilsesquioxane: Dow Corning MQ-1640 Flake Resin (Dow Corning)
Vergleichsversuch zur Stylingperformance Comparative experiment on styling performance
Für diesen Vergleichsversuchstest werden kurze Haartressen (3 × 3cm Haarüberstand, 1,25g inklusive Tressierung) mit 0,2g Zubereitung behandelt. Die Strähnen werden mind. 5h getrocknet und danach von 3 geschulten Panelisten im Bezug auf ihre Stylingperformance/ Härtung bewertet. Ergebnis Rezeptur 1 vs. Wettbewerber von „Cover your gray – black“ und „Morgans Pomade“
Bewertung: 1 – sehr geringer Halt bzw. Festigung bis 5 – sehr hoher Halt bzw. Festigung Rating: 1 - very low hold or consolidation to 5 - very high hold or consolidation
Die bisher am Markt vorhandenen Technologien zur reinen Grauhaarabdeckung schneiden in der Stylingperformance deutlich schlechter ab als die erfindungsgemäßen Beispielrezepturen. The technologies currently available on the market for pure gray hair coverage are significantly worse in the styling performance than the example formulations according to the invention.
Vergleichsversuch zur Abriebfestigkeit Comparative test for abrasion resistance
Kurze Haartressen (3 × 3cm Haarüberstand, 1,25g inklusive Tressierung) werden mit 0,2g Produkt behandelt. Die Strähnen werden mind. 5h getrocknet und danach auf einem weißen Baumwolltuch von beiden Seiten 5x mit drei Fingern und gleichmäßigem Druck abgerieben. Short hair tresses (3 × 3 cm hair supernatant, 1.25 g including tension) are treated with 0.2 g product. The strands are dried for at least 5 hours and then rubbed on a white cotton cloth from both sides 5 times with three fingers and even pressure.
Zusätzliche Vorbehandlung für Schweiß- und Wasserresistenztest: Additional pretreatment for sweat and water resistance test:
- – Applikation von 0,6g künstlicher Schweiß-Lösung (als Pumpspray) - Application of 0,6g artificial sweat solution (as pump spray)
- – Eintauchen der Strähne in Wasser (5 Sekunden). - Dip the tress into water (5 seconds).
Die Messung erfolgte mit dem X-Rite Farbmessgerät. Ausgewertet wurde anschließend der L-Wert, der Werte von 0 (schwarz) bis 100 (weiß) haben kann, wobei L die Neutralgrau-Achse im L·a·b Farbraum (
Pro Testprodukt wurden mind. drei Messungen vorgenommen und anschließend gemittelt. Alle Strähnen wurden mit schwarzen Produkten behandelt. At least three measurements were taken per test product and then averaged. All tresses were treated with black products.
Je niedriger der gemessene Wert, desto dunkler war das Mess-Areal und desto stärker der Abrieb. The lower the measured value, the darker the measurement area and the greater the abrasion.
Rezeptur der künstlichen Schweiß Lösung (~pH 3): Formulation of the artificial sweat solution (~ pH 3):
- 500mg Glycin 500mg glycine
- 1300mg Milchsäure 1300mg lactic acid
- 100mg Harnstoff 100mg urea
- 1800mg NaCl 1800mg NaCl
- 480mg KCl 480mg KCl
- 1000mg Ammoniumchlorid 1000 mg ammonium chloride
- Aqua dest ad. 1000g Aqua dest ad. 1000g
Tabelle 6: Folgende erfindungsgemäße Formeln wurden getestet
In
Fazit: Die erfindungsgemäßen Rezepturen haben eine höhere Abriebfestigkeit sowie Schweiß- und Wasserresistenz. In
Conclusion: The formulations of the invention have a higher abrasion resistance and sweat and water resistance.
Vergleichsversuche zur Grauhaarabdeckung Comparative tests for gray hair coverage
- Messung der Farbabdeckung-Nullwert, nach Appliktion, nach 5h, nach 24h Measurement of color coverage zero value, after application, after 5h, after 24h
- Gemessen an 20cm langem und 80% grauem Haar mit einem X-Rite Farbmessgerät. 0,7g Produktauftrag Measured on 20cm long and 80% gray hair with an X-Rite colorimeter. 0,7g product order
ZITATE ENTHALTEN IN DER BESCHREIBUNG QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION
Diese Liste der vom Anmelder aufgeführten Dokumente wurde automatisiert erzeugt und ist ausschließlich zur besseren Information des Lesers aufgenommen. Die Liste ist nicht Bestandteil der deutschen Patent- bzw. Gebrauchsmusteranmeldung. Das DPMA übernimmt keinerlei Haftung für etwaige Fehler oder Auslassungen.This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.
Zitierte PatentliteraturCited patent literature
- EP 897299 A1 [0003] EP 897299 A1 [0003]
- FR 2861296 A1 [0004] FR 2861296 A1 [0004]
- EP 1386601 B1 [0005] EP 1386601 B1 [0005]
- WO 2010052876 A1 [0006, 0007] WO 2010052876 A1 [0006, 0007]
- EP 1013267 B1 [0007] EP 1013267 B1 [0007]
- JP 2003012469 A [0007] JP 2003012469 A [0007]
- EP 1343457 B1 [0007] EP 1343457 B1 [0007]
- EP 1616553 B1 [0007] EP 1616553 B1 [0007]
- EP 2023891 A2 [0007] EP 2023891 A2 [0007]
- DE 102009055281 A1 [0007] DE 102009055281 A1 [0007]
- DE 19746468 A1 [0008] DE 19746468 A1 [0008]
- DE 19913625 A1 [0008] DE 19913625 A1 [0008]
Zitierte Nicht-PatentliteraturCited non-patent literature
- EN ISO 11664-4 [0044] EN ISO 11664-4 [0044]
Claims (13)
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PCT/EP2014/051994 WO2014146818A1 (en) | 2013-03-18 | 2014-02-03 | Hair styling emulsion |
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WO (1) | WO2014146818A1 (en) |
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WO2017036135A1 (en) * | 2015-09-01 | 2017-03-09 | Beiersdorf Ag | A hair styling composition for hair care containing lotus flower oil and use thereof |
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DE102014216861A1 (en) * | 2014-08-25 | 2016-02-25 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | "Means and Method of Temporarily Deforming Keratinous Fibers" |
DE102014221533A1 (en) | 2014-10-23 | 2016-04-28 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Temporary color change of hair with pigments, alcohols and cationic celluloses |
DE102014221532A1 (en) | 2014-10-23 | 2016-04-28 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Temporary color change of hair with pigments, alcohols and nonionic polymers |
DE102014221652A1 (en) | 2014-10-24 | 2016-04-28 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Temporary color change of hair with pigments, alcohols and zwitterionic or cationic polymers |
DE102014221535A1 (en) | 2014-10-23 | 2016-04-28 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Temporary color change of hair with pigments, alcohols and zwitterionic polymers |
DE102014221536A1 (en) | 2014-10-23 | 2016-04-28 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Temporary color change of hair with pigments, alcohols and special polyalkoxylated silicones |
EP3386477B1 (en) * | 2015-12-09 | 2020-12-02 | Henkel AG & Co. KGaA | A sprayable gel composition for hair conditioning |
FR3060985B1 (en) * | 2016-12-22 | 2020-02-14 | L'oreal | PROCESS FOR DIRECT COLORING OF KERATINIC FIBERS COMPRISING THE APPLICATION OF TWO SPECIAL COMPOSITIONS |
CN108721144A (en) * | 2017-04-24 | 2018-11-02 | 广州温雅日用化妆品有限公司 | Colored styling wax and preparation method thereof |
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WO2017036135A1 (en) * | 2015-09-01 | 2017-03-09 | Beiersdorf Ag | A hair styling composition for hair care containing lotus flower oil and use thereof |
WO2017036134A1 (en) * | 2015-09-01 | 2017-03-09 | Beiersdorf Ag | A hair conditioning composition for hair care containing lotus flower oil and use thereof |
CN108697628A (en) * | 2015-09-01 | 2018-10-23 | 拜尔斯道夫股份有限公司 | Hair styling composition containing lotus flower oil for hair care and application thereof |
CN109069403A (en) * | 2015-09-01 | 2018-12-21 | 拜尔斯道夫股份有限公司 | Hair conditioning composition containing lotus flower oil for hair care and application thereof |
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