Single-face water-oil-repellent knitted fabric and production method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to garment material, particularly a kind of single-face water-oil-repellent knitted fabric and production method thereof.
Background technology
The knit fabric that has the water and oil repellant function in the market is very general.But mostly being when arrangement back greatly pads the processing mode of water-refusing oil-refusing finishing agent, and this simple water and oil repellent finish has destroyed the hydrophilicity of fabric, makes the wearer generally feel sultry humidity, absorbing sweat not, and gas permeability is poor, and comfortableness descends greatly.
In order to improve the wearability of water and oil repellant functional fabric, just must consider to make fabric in water and oil repellant, keep certain hydrophily.In this respect, had indivedual units to test and study, the main method of using is the method for coating.Coat the material of WATER REPELLENCY at hydrophilic fabric face, reach the function that water, internal layer suction are refused in the surface.But this method needs special equipment, and technological process is long, and stability is not good enough, and the hydrophilic effect of reverse side is not ideal enough.Also have and utilize two-layer fabric mechanical development moisture-permeability waterproof fabric, as the You Nijike of Japan, nexine is a fine fibre conduit soak layer, and skin is a waterproof fibre.This lining is that special synthetic fiber are that material knitting forms, and certain limitation is arranged on material.Adopt the lining of above-mentioned technology in Chinese patent, also to report to some extent, " the windproof air-moisture-permeable chemical ﹠ blended fabric of waterproof composite material " disclosed as Chinese patent ZL 00216185.0, Chinese patent ZL 02111533.8 discloses " manufacture method of hydrophobic permeable facing material with covered film ", Chinese patent ZL 03112517.4 discloses " biological protection clothes lining ", and Chinese patent ZL03257336.7 discloses " a kind of nano functional shirt fabric ".
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is to provide a kind of front water and oil repellant and reverse side moisture absorption to lead all comparatively ideal single-face water-oil-repellent knitted fabric of sweat effect and production method thereof at the prior art present situation.
In order to overcome the shortcoming and the limitation of existing lining, we lead the knit fabric of sweat function and develop having water and oil repellant function and moisture absorption simultaneously in line with the purpose of technological innovation, with cotton textiles and blended yarn woven fabric thereof is main processing object, continuous experiment through nearly half a year, repeatedly model and bulk production production, water-refusing oil-refusing finishing agent by the applying nano level, determine special knitting, design textile structure and adopt special processing technology scientifically, make knit goods in the physical index that keeps regulation, have the front water and oil repellant, the specific function effect of sweat is led in the reverse side moisture absorption, greatly improved product specification and taken performance, we have successfully developed the knit fabric such as the plaiting plain weave of multiple different structure so far, the plaiting PIQUE, the plaiting LACOSTE, have the rib-loop FIGURED CLOTH etc. of bilateral structure and obtained stable production technology.
The present invention solves the problems of the technologies described above the technical scheme that is adopted: single-face water-oil-repellent knitted fabric of the present invention, it is by the knitting plated fabric that forms of plating structure, the whole coils that it is characterized in that described plated fabric are formed by a hydrophilic yarn and a water-proof yarn, and the whole of coil that are arranged in the plated fabric front are water-proof yarns, and the whole of coil that are arranged in the plated fabric reverse side are hydrophilic yarns; Described hydrophilic yarn is the cotton yarn through hydrophilic finish, and described water-proof yarn is the cotton yarn that has the water and oil repellant function through the arrangement of Organic fluoride class water repellent finishing agent.
Described Organic fluoride class finishing agent is the finishing agent of commodity OLEPHOBOL C by name.
Described hydrophilic yarn is the cotton yarn of handling through hydrophilic softener.
Described hydrophilic softener is to be selected among SEBOSAN HIS, DCW, HCT, HSD, the HV any one, and wherein SEBOSAN HIS, DCW, HCT, HSD, HV are the trade name of hydrophilic softener.
The method of production single-face water-oil-repellent knitted fabric of the present invention is characterized in that comprising following operation:
1) yarn dyeing;
2) finishing functions: the cotton yarn separated into two parts that will handle through yarn dyeing, a part is carried out hydrophilic finish and is become hydrophilic yarn,
Another part carries out water and oil repellent finish with Organic fluoride class finishing agent and becomes water-proof yarn;
3) hydrophilic yarn and water-proof yarn are dewatered respectively and carry out hf drying and winder;
4) knitting: water-proof yarn and hydrophilic yarn are weaved into plated fabric, the whole coils that make plated fabric by a hydrophilic yarn and
Water-proof yarn forms, and the coil that is arranged in the plated fabric front all is made of water-proof yarn, and the coil that is arranged in the plated fabric reverse side then all is made of hydrophilic yarn;
5) through microscopy, be equipped with cloth, open-width, wash water, dehydration, oven dry, typing and promptly get the lining finished product.
Shrinking processes are also arranged one behind the described shaping process, and shrinking processes can better be improved the shrink and the feel of lining, make fabric construction tightr simultaneously, help improving the effect of water and oil repellant.
The wash water operation also had the prebaking operation in the past one after described knitting process, and the prebaking operation helps strengthening the durability of front water and oil repellant effect and arrangement.The process conditions of prebaking operation are: temperature is controlled at 150~170 ℃, and the time is 30~50 seconds.The purpose of carrying out one prebaking operation is to strengthen the durability of front water and oil repellant effect and arrangement.Production practices according to us prove that this operation has material impact to the product final properties.
The used Organic fluoride class finishing agent of described water and oil repellent finish is the finishing agent of commodity OLEPHOBOL C by name, finishing condition is as follows: OLEPHOBOL C consumption is 4~8%o.w.f, water repellent finish additive XAN consumption is at 2~3%o.w.f, and bath raio is between 1: 10~1: 20; And earlier yarn was cleaned completely before putting in order, slowly adding finishing agent below 30 ℃ then, PH is adjusted between 5~7; Slowly be warmed up to then between 45 ℃~60 ℃, heating rate is 0.5~1.5 ℃/minute, and back insulation 10~20 minutes heats up.
Described wash water operation comprises wash water and crosses soft two step process that wherein the process conditions of wash water are: scouring agent JA 1g/L, and penetrating agent JFC 0.5g/L, soda ash 1g/L handled 30 minutes down in 55~65 ℃ of temperature conditions; Crossing soft process conditions is: silicone based hydrophilic softener HV 2~5wt%, handled 20 minutes down in 37~45 ℃ of temperature conditions.
Compared with prior art, the invention has the advantages that: the reasonable arrangement by using hydrophilic yarn and water-proof yarn, design textile structure scientifically, and it is auxiliary with special processing technology, make that knit goods has the front water and oil repellant in the physical index that keeps regulation, the specific function effect of sweat is led in the reverse side moisture absorption, and it is all more satisfactory that the sweat effect is led in front water and oil repellant and reverse side moisture absorption, greatly improved product specification and taken performance.After testing, the function physical index after the lining washing of the present invention can reach following standard:
1. water is refused in the front: wash preceding 6 grades, wash 10 times after 4 grades (with the test of Du Pont method);
2. oil is refused in the front: wash preceding 6 grades, wash ten times after 4 grades (with the test of AATCC 118 methods);
3. reverse side hydrophily: 30 seconds with interior (with the test of AATCC 79 methods).
Description of drawings
Fig. 1 is the structural representation of embodiment of the invention lining;
Fig. 2 is the vertical view of the lateral cross section of lining among Fig. 1.
The specific embodiment
Embodiment describes in further detail the present invention below in conjunction with accompanying drawing.
Embodiment
As Fig. 1~shown in Figure 2, be a kind of better embodiment of the present invention.Single-face water-oil-repellent knitted fabric as shown in Figure 1 and Figure 2, it is by the knitting plated fabric that forms of plating structure, whole coils of plated fabric are formed by a hydrophilic yarn 1 and a water-proof yarn 2, and the whole of coil that are arranged in the plated fabric front are water-proof yarns 2, and the whole of coil that are arranged in the plated fabric reverse side are hydrophilic yarns 1; Described hydrophilic yarn 1 is the cotton yarn through hydrophilic finish, and described water-proof yarn 2 is the cotton yarns that have the water and oil repellant function through the arrangement of Organic fluoride class water repellent finishing agent.Because the nexine of lining all is a hydrophilic yarn 1, skin then all is a water-proof yarn 2, thereby lining has the front water and oil repellant, the specific function effect of sweat is led in the reverse side moisture absorption.
The production method of present embodiment single-face water-oil-repellent knitted fabric is:
At first its technological process can be schematically as follows:
Yarn dyeing → yarn water and oil repellent finish (or hydrophilic finish) → dehydration → hf drying → winder → knitting → microscopy → be equipped with cloth → open-width → bake → wash water → dehydration → oven dry → typing → preshrunk.
Details are as follows:
1) yarn dyeing;
2) finishing functions: the cotton yarn separated into two parts that will handle through yarn dyeing, a part is carried out hydrophilic finish and is become hydrophilic yarn 1, and another part carries out water and oil repellent finish with Organic fluoride class finishing agent and becomes water-proof yarn 2;
3) hydrophilic yarn 1 and water-proof yarn 2 are dewatered respectively and carry out hf drying and winder;
4) knitting: that water-proof yarn 2 and hydrophilic yarn 1 are weaved into plated fabric, whole coils of plated fabric are formed by a hydrophilic yarn 1 and a water-proof yarn 2, and the coil that is arranged in the plated fabric front all is made of water-proof yarn 2, and the coil that is arranged in the plated fabric reverse side then all is made of hydrophilic yarn 1;
5) through microscopy, be equipped with cloth, open-width, bake, wash water, dehydration, oven dry, typing, preshrunk promptly get the lining finished product.Shrinking processes can better be improved the shrink and the feel of lining, make fabric construction tightr simultaneously, help improving the effect of water and oil repellant.Yarn carries out finishing functions and is made into grey cloth and carries out one the prebaking operation later on again, helps strengthening the durability of front water and oil repellant effect and arrangement.
Therefore the finishing functions behind this production method yarn dyeing comprises two kinds, and a kind of is water and oil repellent finish, and another kind is a hydrophilic finish.Because the hygroscopicity of cotton yarn was just relatively good originally, hydrophilic finish is comparatively speaking than being easier to, as long as add hydrophilic softener SEBOSAN HIS; DCW; HCT, HSD, HV gets final product.Therefore the key of this technology is the water and oil repellent finish technology of yarn.The selection of finishing agent type, consumption, arrangement temperature and time all can have very big influence to finishing effect.Defects such as inappropriate technology can cause the gathering of finishing agent precipitation, finishing effect is inhomogeneous or not durable.Therefore the finishing technique condition determines it is the key point of this technology.
Through deep research and a large amount of experiments, we think that Organic fluoride class water-refusing oil-refusing finishing agent OLEPHOBOL C can obtain more stable and durable finishing effect on yarn.
The technology of Organic fluoride class finishing agent OLEPHOBOL C in yarn finish is as follows: OLEPHOBOL C consumption is 4~8%o.w.f, and water repellent finish additive XAN consumption is at 2~3%o.w.f, and bath raio is between 1: 10~1: 20; And earlier yarn was cleaned completely before putting in order, slowly adding finishing agent below 30 ℃ then, PH is adjusted between 5~7; Slowly be warmed up to then between 45 ℃~60 ℃, heating rate is 0.5~1.5 ℃/minute, and back insulation 10~20 minutes heats up.Circulating pump need adopt two-way circulation, to guarantee to obtain uniform finishing effect.
The knitting design:
2) yarn of two kinds of difference in functionalitys need could be realized the function that we need by rational knitting design.The optimal tissue of realizing above function on knitted fabric is a plating structure.Plating structure is meant a kind of tissue that all or part of coil on the fabric is formed by two yarns.When the braiding plating structure, operating technology is required to deal with improperly than higher, can influence the coverage effect of two coils, grinning effect occurs.Adopt the veil of the cotton yarn of process water and oil repellant processing in the present embodiment as plating structure, adopt the filling of the yarn of process hydrophilic finish as plating structure, by rational adjusting process parameter, make the water-proof yarn 2 of plating structure always be arranged on the skin of lining with respect to the hydrophilic yarn 1 of plating structure, thereby making arrangement and being presented on lining outer field all is water-proof yarn 2, is hydrophilic yarns 1 and arrange and be presented on the whole of lining nexine; The lining that is made into has had positive refuse water, the hydrophilic function of reverse side naturally.
Above braided structure can be referring to Fig. 1, illustrated in Figure 2: wherein white yarn is represented hydrophilic yarn 1, and black yarn is represented water-proof yarn 2.As seen from the figure, veil all is a water-proof yarn 2, and filling all is a hydrophilic yarn 1.
Wash water technology:
Also will make fabric have good hydrophilic moisture pick-up properties when guaranteeing front water and oil repellant effect, we have improved conventional wash water technology.Conventional wash water technology only adds a small amount of degreaser and soda ash was handled 20 minutes at 50 degree, crosses cationic softener then.And this wash water technology is more violent than conventional wash water technology, crosses the soft difference that also has.If wash water is insufficient, then hydrophily can descend.Wash water is too violent, and then the function of reverse side water and oil repellant yarn can descend.Present embodiment wash water process conditions are as follows:
The wash water operation comprises wash water and crosses soft two step process that wherein the process conditions of wash water are: scouring agent JA 1g/L, and penetrating agent JFC 0.5g/L, soda ash 1g/L handled 30 minutes down in 55~65 ℃ of temperature conditions; Crossing soft process conditions is: silicone based hydrophilic softener HV 2~5wt%, handled 20 minutes down in 37~45 ℃ of temperature conditions.
The operation of not giving detailed description in this production method is a conventional method.
Present embodiment lining product can reach the performance of water and oil repellant product fully, and washing back function physical index reaches following standard:
1. the water effect is refused in the front: wash preceding 6 grades, wash ten times after 4 grades (with the test of Du Pont method);
2. oily effect is refused in the front: wash preceding 6 grades, wash ten times after 4 grades (with the test of AATCC 118 methods);
3. reverse side hydrophily: 30 seconds with interior (with the test of AATCC 79 methods).
4. content of formaldehyde:<75PPM (test of GB/T 2912.1 methods)
Other physical indexs of product have all reached the every index that requires in the national textile product basic security technical specification.