CN1539398A - Method for preparing base oil for cosmetic - Google Patents

Method for preparing base oil for cosmetic Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1539398A
CN1539398A CNA2003101083130A CN200310108313A CN1539398A CN 1539398 A CN1539398 A CN 1539398A CN A2003101083130 A CNA2003101083130 A CN A2003101083130A CN 200310108313 A CN200310108313 A CN 200310108313A CN 1539398 A CN1539398 A CN 1539398A
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oil
embryo
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CN1224373C (en
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雷 姚
姚雷
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Shanghai Jiaotong University
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Shanghai Jiaotong University
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Abstract

A basic oil for cosmetics is prepared from the seeds of tea-oil tree through pretreating, drying in air, shelling, crushing, softening, rolling, steaming or parching, squeezing, filtering, centrifugal separation, low-temp hydrating for degumming and adsorptive decoloring by active argil. Its advantages are rich nutrients and antioxidizng components.

Description

The preparation method of cosmetics base oil
Technical field:
The present invention relates to a kind of preparation method of cosmetics base oil, relate in particular to a kind of method of utilizing Semen Camelliae as feedstock production cosmetics base oil, effectively keep various nutritional labelings in the cosmetics base oil that makes, belong to the cosmetics technical field the human body beneficial.
Background technology:
Most cosmetics all need base oil to bring into play its function as medium, as the plants essential oil that is used to massage must can use by basic oil dilution and dissolving, this is because base oil can not only be assisted the quintessence oil deep layer that penetrates to the skin, can also dilute quintessence oil, avoid the direct use of quintessence oil and chafe, base oil itself also has certain Nutrition simultaneously.
Base oil should be the oils and fats that meets following condition:
● vegetative grease
● nontoxic, no anaphylaxis material, edible oils and fats
● the content height of unsaturated fatty acid
● at room temperature be the flowing liquid shape
● the permeability to human body skin is strong, and molecular weight is relatively little
● quintessence oil is presented dissolubility preferably
● tasteless, colourless or light color, transparent
● the tool non-oxidizability.
The cosmetics base oil that meets above-mentioned condition of Shi Yonging has tens kinds now, as Jojoba oil, is the oils and fats that the bean or pea from a kind of desert plant squeeze out, and no special abnormal smells from the patient is the strongest oils and fats of permeability.Its stability is high, can anti-high light, high temperature and keep structure constant, and be the oil that can hide for a long time.And for example, Oleum Vitis viniferae antioxidation, aging resistance, provide acid-base balance and several mineral materials vitamin tonic best source, Semen Vitis viniferae oil oily oiliness, any skin matter all is suitable for, skin-friendly is easy to skin absorbs by force most, and best lubricity is arranged, and color and luster presents beautiful and natural light green.Also have, Semen pruni armeniacae oil rich in mineral substances, protein and various vitamin are the splendid vegetable oil of a kind of skin care and moisturizing effect, are applicable to various skin matter.In addition, contain a lot of vitamin in the olive oil, be suitable for ripe flesh, dry flesh and sensitive skin, also as the medicinal raw material of making externally-applied ointment, plaster.
More than also be no lack of the elaboration that base oil is arranged in these oil, but price is too high, and many raw materials have only dependence on import.The seed oil content of the oil tea that China extensively plants is up to 30%, and main component is oleic acid and linoleic glyceride.Oleum Camelliae is a kind of non-drying oil, and unsaturated fatty acid wherein accounts for about 94%, and is all higher than Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen, Semen Allii Tuberosi wet goods draft oil plant content, is a kind of high-quality, long keeping edible oil, also is the first-elected health care vegetable edible oil of international food and agricultural organization.And still almost be blank in value exploitation such as medicinal, medical and industrial, that chemical industry is used, only on as hair oil and fancy soap, certain use is arranged.
Oleum Camelliae has stronger permeability to skin, has the natural anti-oxidation composition of high level, vitamin D, and vitamin E, harmful components are removed in the nutrition that can effectively replenish needed by human body, delay cell senescence, keep cell viability.Oleum Camelliae is strong to the permeability of human body skin, and quintessence oil is presented dissolubility preferably, suitably process Oleum Camelliae can become tasteless, light color, transparent liquid, it has very strong non-oxidizability.Therefore it meets the characteristic of base oil very much.Therefore it being used as the cosmetics base oil is expansion to the purposes of Oleum Camelliae, and the import that can reduce the cosmetics base oil can be developed the resource of homemade Oleum Camelliae again.But the technology report that this respect is not arranged at present as yet.
Usually high temperature squeezing and organic solvent solvent extraction method are all adopted in the extraction of edible oil, and these two kinds of methods also are not suitable for the preparation of cosmetics base oil, and the former can destroy effective ingredient such as vitamin E in the oil, and produces some deleterious material such as trans fatty acid; The latter understands residual some deleterious organic solvents down, can influence the safety of cosmetics.Simultaneously, the processing of edible oil often will be removed materials such as lecithin, plant sterol, has removed many effective ingredient to the human body beneficial.
Summary of the invention:
The objective of the invention is at the deficiencies in the prior art, a kind of preparation method of cosmetics base oil is provided, raw material sources are wide, moderate cost, and can satisfy the condition of base oil admirably, can satisfy the market demand of China.
For realizing such purpose, the present invention selects the raw material of Semen Camelliae as the cosmetics base oil for use, with Semen Camelliae do cleaning, spreading for cooling, peel off, after the fragmentation, handle through softening, roll embryo again, the living embryo that obtains squeezes after stir-fry becomes cooked flake more at normal temperatures through steaming, the crude oil that obtains is filtered and centrifugalize, adopt low temperature hydrated method for degumming, make phospholipid isocolloid imbibition in the crude oil, coagulative precipitation and from oil, separate, and adopt the adsorption decoloring method of active hargil to improve grease color, obtaining at last with Oleum Camelliae is the cosmetics base oil of substrate.
Method of the present invention is undertaken by following concrete steps:
1, cleaning: also cry selected or dedusting, mainly remove impurity such as native sand in the Semen Camelliae, dust, stem and leaf.Can reduce the oils and fats loss by cleaning, improve oil yield, increase the treating capacity of equipment, improve technological effect.Can use vibrosieve, air draught separator, specific-gravity stoner etc.
2, spreading for cooling: Semen Camelliae is after gather, and moisture is more, and the surface has many moisture again, be placed on the ventilation drying at once, will not be higher than the oven dry of 70 degree under the situation of bad weather.But dry back camellia oleosa seed shell season crack.
3, peel off: harder because of the camellia oleosa seed shell, the kernel in the shell is the part that can extract oil, so shell must be peelled off.Can improve oil yield by peeling off, improve the crusher treating capacity, reduce wearing and tearing, can adopt disk type decorticator machine.After peeling off, can be divided into three kinds of core, shell, bits, clean core can directly enter subsequent processing.
4, fragmentation: kernel must just can roll embryo through after the fragmentation, requires to become the 4-6 lobe after the kernel fragmentation, and machine can adopt kibbler roll, beater grinder and centrifugal crusher.Also need to peel (seed skin) in the kernel preprocessing process simultaneously, the kernel decortication requires earlier water content to be dried to below 12%, carries out fragmentation again, helps kernel like this and separates with kind of a skin, will plant skin with multistage air suction device then and siphon away.
5, softening: be exactly that short grained oil plant is arrived suitable degree by its moisture and thermoregulation, make to have plasticity, be beneficial to roll embryo and fry with steaming, softening temperature is the 60-70 degree, and the time is 15 minutes.Equipment can adopt: vertical softening kettle, horizontal drum tenderizing machine.
6, roll embryo: help the cyto-architectural destruction of oil plant, be easy to take out the oils and fats in the cell, give to steam to fry to create conditions.Roll that embryo requirement embryo is thin evenly, the embryo sheet is solid, become powder less, do not reveal oil.The thickness of embryo is 0.3mm.Equipment can adopt: pair roller particle rolling machine, roller diameter are 500-800mm, and the roll surface linear speed is the 5-6 meter per second.
7, steam to fry: be meant the livings embryo that to roll behind the embryo, pass through and add water (moistening).Heating (steaming embryo), dry (stir-fry embryo) make it to become the process of cooked flake.Its purpose is to destroy the cell of oil plant, makes the protein coagulating degeneration, makes the phospholipid imbibition.Oleum Camelliae takes moistening to steam the stir-fry type, promptly makes it moistening through adding moistening moisture or spraying into steam, and the material embryo with moistening steams the stir-fry oven dry subsequently.Require to steam the moisture of embryo: 16-20%; When steaming embryo the material embryo to give birth to ripe evenly, steam saturating; Steaming the embryo temperature is the 98-100 degree; The total steaming 1 hour stir-fry time.Steaming stir-fry equipment can adopt: steam auger, laminar cooking pot.Material embryo green coke not after steam frying, uniformity reaches suitable moisture and temperature, has good plasticity, lays a solid foundation for squeezing improves oil yield.
8, squeezing: at normal temperatures, adopt screw oil expeller to squeeze.The process of oil is got in squeezing, and the effect by mechanical external force makes the oils and fats process that extruding is come out from press material exactly.
Screw oil expeller is the more oily equipment of a kind of squeezing system of using at present, and its feature is that the serialization treating capacity is big, and dynamically the squeezing time lacks, and the oil yield height is operated advantages such as labor intensity is low.Squeezing is got oil and can be divided into 3 stages: charging (precompressed), the main pressure (fuel-displaced), one-tenth cake (drop oil) stage.The process of squeezing mainly belongs to physical change, but because pressure is excessive, cause intensification, can cause some biochemical reaction, especially require to try not to destroy nutritional labeling in the oil, so require applied pressure to want subcritical pressure for the cosmetics base oil, that is to say when temperature is spent above 80 and should reduce impressed pressure, would rather elongate the squeezing time, not pursue high oil yield, also will guarantee the quality of oil.The oil that goes out to the squeezing stage is called " crude oil ".
9, filter and separates: the crude oil that oil expression obtains can be sneaked into insoluble substances such as cake powder, colloidal suspensions and mechanical admixture, so employing filtration or centrifugal separation method are removed these foreign material.Filtration is exactly to use filter cloth to filter at a certain temperature, and equipment can adopt chamber filter press, disk filter and leaf-type vacuum filter.The method of utilizing action of centrifugal force to carry out the isolated by filtration or the settlement separate dregs of fat claims centrifugal separation.
10, come unstuck: add water after the crude oil cooling and stir, amount of water is the 1-2% of oil mass, stirs under 20-30 degree condition, and mixing speed is 60-70 time/minute, and mixing time is 30-40 minute, staticly settles after the stirring 30-40 minute, separates then, gets the top absolute oil.More or less all contain phospholipid, protein and various kinds of resin shape colloid in the crude oil.The present invention adopts low temperature hydrated method for degumming, promptly utilizes to add the water treatment crude oil, makes phospholipid isocolloid imbibition in the crude oil, coagulative precipitation and separates from oil.
11, decolouring: in the crude oil owing to contain multiple pigment composition, cause oils and fats to have very dark color, the cosmetics base oil also has requirement attractive in appearance to color and luster except the requirement to composition, because the different color and lusters of different cosmetics need, base oil is approaching more colourless good more.In order to improve grease color, need to remove the pigment in the oils and fats.The present invention adopts the adsorption decoloring method of active hargil, bleaching temperature: 85 degree, hargil consumption: 0.5-1.5%, bleaching time: intermittent operation 15-30min
Method of the present invention has adopted the processor different with existing edible oil, and difference is:
1, the extraction of edible oil at present all is to adopt high temperature squeezing and organic solvent solvent extraction method, and the former can destroy effective ingredient such as vitamin E in the oil in these two kinds of methods, and produces some deleterious material such as trans fatty acid; The latter understands residual some deleterious organic solvents down, can influence the safety of cosmetics.This method is to adopt the room temperature milling process, though the extraction ratio of oil has certain decline, can keep the plurality of active ingredients to the human body beneficial.
2, edible oil processing often will be removed materials such as lecithin, plant sterol, but does not need to remove in cosmetics, and lecithin can cholesterol reducing, strengthen liver function and brain function, improve attention, relaxes pressure; Plant sterol also cholesterol reducing, can blood circulation promoting effect, abirritate, alleviate skin itching, make skin become pliable and tough.
3, need not special deodorize program.
Technology of the present invention is simple, adopts the raw material of Semen Camelliae as the cosmetics base oil, has made full use of the wide resource of China, has reduced the cost of product.What obtain at last is to have kept many compositions to the human body beneficial in the cosmetics base oil product of substrate with Oleum Camelliae, natural anti-oxidation composition with high level, vitamin D, vitamin E, can effectively replenish the nutrition of needed by human body, remove harmful components, skin is had stronger permeability, delay cell senescence, keep cell viability.
The specific embodiment:
1) gather 100 kilograms of Semen Camelliae use vibrosieve, air draught separator, specific-gravity stoners to screen cleaning.
2) spreading for cooling of screening back is on the bed of the straw rope of aeration-drying or bamboo weaving, and as rainy day, the ventilation drying bakers of putting into 56 degree are dried, the every interlamellar spacing 15cm of pallet, and till camellia oleosa seed shell season crack, the time is no more than 2 days.
3) the reuse disk type decorticator is peeled off, and kernel is isolated.
4) adopt kernel kibbler roll, beater grinder that each kernel is ground into the 4-6 fritter, with multistage air suction device Cortex beans is siphoned away then.
5) be under the 60-70 degree condition in temperature, adopt the softening kernel of pulverizing of vertical softening kettle or horizontal drum tenderizing machine, the time is 15 minutes.
6) with the pair roller particle rolling machine remollescent kernel is rolled embryo
7) adopt steam auger, laminar cooking pot to make and roll the embryo moistening, the material embryo of moistening is steamed fry oven dry subsequently through adding moistening moisture or spraying into steam.Require to steam the moisture of embryo: 16-20%; Steaming the embryo temperature is the 98-100 degree; The total steaming 1 hour stir-fry time.
8) adopt screw oil expeller to squeeze, guarantee that temperature is not higher than 80 degree, the time is 2 hours.
9) adopt disk filter to filter.
10) earlier with the crude oil cooling, add water then and stir for 2 kilograms, mixing speed is 60-70 time/minute, and mixing time is at 30-40 minute, staticly settles 30-40 minute etc. to be separatedly after the stirring again, gets the top absolute oil.
11) adopt the active hargil absorption of decolouring, temperature: 85 spend hargil consumption: 15-20 kilogram, bleaching time: intermittent operation 15-30 time of contact minute.
12) finally obtain about 30 kilograms of product oils.
Application scheme one: as massage oil:
Oleum Camelliae (base oil) 98.1~98.7%+ sweet basil quintessence oil 0.4~0.6%/Herba Lysimachiae foenum-graeci quintessence oil 0.4~0.6%/fragrant cananga Cananga odorata quintessence oil 0.3~0.35%/orange essence oil 0.3~0.35% (quintessence oil).
Using method: quintessence oil is dissolved in the base oil, fully shakes up.
Effect: can make brains distinct, in high spirits, remove pain, detoxicating, balance sebum, strong, wind dispelling, be good for the stomach, functions such as facilitating digestion and nutrition skin.Can promote local blood circulation normalization, and can help to strengthen the epidermis skin, the prevention skin is lax, effectively reaches the consolidation function, gives full play to the optimum efficiency of Firm.Fragrance is suitable.
Application scheme two: skin care:
1) 10ml Oleum Camelliae (base oil)+2~5 Herba Lysimachiae foenum-graeci quintessence oil/Flos Pelargonii quintessence oil/rosemary ethereal oil.
Effect: be applicable to neutral skin
2) 10ml Oleum Camelliae+2~5 Herba Lysimachiae foenum-graeci quintessence oil/Flos Pelargonii quintessence oil/Bergamot/lemon grass (Cymbopogon citratus) quintessence oil.
Effect: be applicable to the oiliness skin
Application scheme three: the maintenance of taking a shower:
Add 5ml Oleum Camelliae (base oil) during shower.
Effect: can moisten dry and cracked skin.

Claims (1)

1, a kind of preparation method of cosmetics base oil, comprise cleaning to Semen Camelliae, spreading for cooling, peel off, broken, embryo rerolls after it is characterized in that the granule oil plant after the fragmentation softened, softening temperature is the 60-70 degree, time is 15 minutes, to roll the living embryo behind the embryo, moistening through adding water, steam embryo, fry embryo and make it to become cooked flake, the moisture that steams embryo is 16-20%, steaming the embryo temperature is the 98-100 degree, the total steaming 1 hour stir-fry time adopted screw oil expeller to squeeze again at normal temperatures and obtained crude oil, and temperature is no more than 80 degree during squeezing, foreign material are removed in crude oil filtration or centrifugalize, add water after the cooling and stir, amount of water is the 1-2% of oil mass, stirs under 20-30 degree condition, mixing speed is 60-70 time/minute, mixing time is 30-40 minute, staticly settles after the stirring 30-40 minute, separates then and gets the top absolute oil, adopt active hargil to carry out adsorption bleaching, bleaching temperature is 85 degree, and the hargil consumption is 0.5-1.5%, and bleaching time is intermittent operation 15-30 minute.
CNB2003101083130A 2003-10-30 2003-10-30 Method for preparing base oil for cosmetic Expired - Fee Related CN1224373C (en)

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CN1224373C CN1224373C (en) 2005-10-26

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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN100355872C (en) * 2006-03-27 2007-12-19 郴州邦尔泰苏仙油脂有限公司 Physical low-temperature cold-squeezing process for tea-seed oil
CN101878820A (en) * 2009-05-08 2010-11-10 常山富而康山茶油有限公司 Method for refining camellia oil with high nutrient content
CN101467952B (en) * 2008-06-16 2011-03-16 四川职业技术学院 Novel health massage skin-protection essential oil and preparation method thereof

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN100355872C (en) * 2006-03-27 2007-12-19 郴州邦尔泰苏仙油脂有限公司 Physical low-temperature cold-squeezing process for tea-seed oil
CN101467952B (en) * 2008-06-16 2011-03-16 四川职业技术学院 Novel health massage skin-protection essential oil and preparation method thereof
CN101878820A (en) * 2009-05-08 2010-11-10 常山富而康山茶油有限公司 Method for refining camellia oil with high nutrient content
CN101878820B (en) * 2009-05-08 2013-07-10 常山富而康山茶油有限公司 Method for refining camellia oil with high nutrient content

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