CN1522684A - 护肤或护发用化妆品组合物 - Google Patents

护肤或护发用化妆品组合物 Download PDF

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CN1522684A
CN1522684A CNA200410005559XA CN200410005559A CN1522684A CN 1522684 A CN1522684 A CN 1522684A CN A200410005559X A CNA200410005559X A CN A200410005559XA CN 200410005559 A CN200410005559 A CN 200410005559A CN 1522684 A CN1522684 A CN 1522684A
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copolymer
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vinyl pyrrolidone
skin
ionic celluloses
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CN100346771C (zh
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早川和久
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Shin Etsu Chemical Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8182Copolymers of vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5422Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge nonionic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5426Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge cationic
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594Mixtures of polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Abstract

一种护肤或护发用化妆品组合物,含有(A)非离子型纤维素醚,和(B)乙烯基吡咯烷酮与含氨基的阳离子化合物的共聚物,该组合物在高温储藏期间能够保持稳定并且显出改进的流动性、粘度、保湿性和乳液稳定性。

Description

护肤或护发用化妆品组合物
技术领域
本发明涉及一种护肤或护发用化妆品组合物。
背景技术
在许多化妆品或个人护理用产品中,为实现流动性改进、增稠和乳液稳定以及将所需功能固定至皮肤或头发上这些目的而使用了各种材料。已知的材料包括淀粉、黄原胶和纤维素的阴离子衍生物(例如,羧甲基化淀粉和纤维素、磷酰化淀粉和纤维素、阳离子型纤维素及其衍生物)、聚丙烯酸等等。最新的进展可见JP-A 10-511422,其中公开了乙烯基吡咯烷酮、季铵单体和疏水单体的均相三元共聚物在护发用组合物中是有效的。此外,JP-A 10-511998公开了乙烯基吡咯烷酮与N-3,3-二甲基氨丙基甲基丙烯酰胺的共聚物在头发定型用组合物中是有效的。
作为流变改进剂、增稠剂和乳液稳定剂,已知有聚丙烯酸盐、藻酸盐、角叉菜胶、透明质酸盐、羧甲基纤维素盐、三葡糖苷-多糖(trigluco-polysuccharides)、羧甲基葡聚糖盐、阳离子型纤维素、阳离子型瓜尔豆胶、羧基乙烯基聚合物盐、黄原胶、膨润土、硅酸铝镁、甲基纤维素、羟丙基甲基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素等等。Sweger等的USP5,482,704或JP-A8-40822中公开了含有氨基-多羧化改性的淀粉衍生物的化妆品组合物。JP-A2000-297028公开了脂肪酸-N-烷基多羟基烷基酰胺在护肤用组合物中是有用的。
然而,这些常规已知的材料或改性剂,当单独使用时,在流变改进、增稠、保湿性、乳液稳定和将有效成分(例如,油和醇)固定至皮肤或头发方面不能赋予完全令人满意的功能。因此,有人提出将这些改进剂组合使用。然而,如果让通过将这些改进剂合并制备的化妆品组合物长期放置,则合并的聚合物将会彼此分离或者在一定的温度条件下聚集在一起,也就是说,这种化妆品组合物缺乏储藏稳定性。具体说,水溶性烷基纤维素、羟烷基烷基纤维素和羟丙基纤维素(它们的水溶液当加热时变成凝胶,并且当冷却时恢复成水溶液)作为在化妆品基料(如硅油)中的分散液时能够保持稳定(参见K-Hayakawa,M.Kawaguchi,T.Kato,Langmuir,13,6069(1997)),并且因此可用于为化妆品基料提供流动和湿度保留性。如果将这种纤维素与用于进一步改进流动或保湿性目的的合成聚合物联合使用,则尽管通过与合成聚合物联用取得了一定的改进,但它们之间相容性差的特点会导致在高温长期储藏过程中化妆品基料分离或部分聚集,从而使所得的化妆品组合物具有不期望的差的稳定性。
发明概述
本发明的一个目的是提供一种护肤或护发用化妆品组合物,该化妆品组合物在储藏期间能够保持稳定并且可以增进流动、粘度增加、保湿性、乳液稳定性及诸如油和醇的化妆品成分按对这种化妆品组合物的要求而在皮肤或头发上的固定性。
据发现,上述问题可以通过一种组合物来解决,其中所述组合物含有非离子型纤维素醚和乙烯基吡咯烷酮与含氨基的阳离子化合物的共聚物。
本发明提供一种护肤或护发用化妆品组合物,该化妆品组合物含有(A)非离子型纤维素醚,和(B)乙烯基吡咯烷酮与含氨基的阳离子化合物的共聚物。
本发明的护肤或护发用化妆品组合物在高温储藏期间保持稳定,并且在流动性、粘度、保湿性和乳液稳定性方面得到改进。
优选实施方案的描述
本发明护肤或护发用化妆品组合物中所用的组分(A)是非离子型纤维素醚。正是纤维素醚的水溶液才会呈现热可逆性胶凝现象。优选的非离子型纤维素醚包括如日本药典或药物赋形剂标准(JapanesePharmacopoeia or Pharmaceutical Excipients Standars)中指定的甲基纤维素、羟丙基甲基纤维素和羟丙基纤维素,以及羟乙基乙基纤维素。特别优选的是如日本药典第14版D-2208中指定的羟丙基甲基纤维素,因为它通过加热的热胶凝温度较低,并且当添加至化妆品组合物中时它的稳定性较高,特别是在高温下。相反,不能使用阴离子型纤维素醚,如羧甲基纤维素,因为它们会与作为本发明组分(B)的阳离子聚合物形成复合物。
可以在本发明中使用的非离子型纤维素醚可以粉末的形式商购获得。如果需要的话,可以使用粒状形式的非离子型纤维素醚,其通过将非离子型纤维素醚粉末流化、将含有保湿剂的粉末粘合用液体滴加或者喷雾至粉末中、粒化并且干燥来制备,其中所述保湿剂如非离子、阴离子或阳离子型表面活性剂。这种非离子型纤维素醚颗粒可快速溶于冷水中。优选,将这种粒状产物分级,使得保留在日本药典第14版B-1060中指定的30号(500μm孔)筛网上的量最多为50wt%,并且通过日本药典第14版B-1061中指定的140号(106μm孔)筛网的量最多为40wt%。通过使用这种粒化、可溶于冷水的非离子型纤维素醚并且将必要量的这种纤维素醚与通过将乙烯基吡咯烷酮与含氨基阳离子化合物共聚而获得的粒状聚合物混合,进行溶解操作。这样可避免环境和其它问题,包括溶解操作过程中产生灰尘和溶解延迟。
组分(B)是乙烯基吡咯烷酮与含氨基的阳离子化合物的共聚物。当与非离子型纤维素醚合并时,这种共聚物所起的作用是改进对皮肤和头发的保湿性及改进化妆品成分的流动和均匀分散。
乙烯基吡咯烷酮与含氨基的阳离子化合物的共聚物的具体实例包括N,N-二甲基-N-(3-((2-甲基-1-氧-2-丙烯基)氨基)丙基-1-十二烷基氯化铵和N-(3-(二甲基氨基)丙基)-2-甲基丙烯酰胺与1-乙烯基-2-吡咯烷酮的共聚物、乙烯基吡咯烷酮与甲基丙烯酸N,N-二甲基氨基乙酯二乙基硫酸酯的共聚物,及乙烯基吡咯烷酮与甲基丙烯酰胺丙基三甲基氯化铵的共聚物。
乙烯基吡咯烷酮与含氨基的阳离子化合物的共聚物的其它实例包括乙烯基吡咯烷酮与季铵单体和疏水单体的均相三元共聚物,及乙烯基吡咯烷酮与N-3,3-二甲基氨基丙基甲基丙烯酰胺的基本上均相共聚物。
乙烯基吡咯烷酮与二甲基氨基丙基甲基丙烯酰胺的共聚物与前述的阳离子聚合物同样有用。
优选,乙烯基吡咯烷酮与含氨基的阳离子化合物的共聚物的分子量为几千至几百万。共聚物的添加量没有特别的限制,只要它等于或大于产生所需功能的最小必需量。通常,以化妆品组合物的总重量计,共聚物的添加量为0.01-10wt%,优选0.01-6wt%。
在化妆品组合物中,所含的非离子型纤维素醚(A)和乙烯基吡咯烷酮与含氨基的阳离子化合物的共聚物(B)之重量比A/B优选为1/50-10/10,更优选1/30-5/10。在此范围内,可以实现预期的流动性改进、增稠和乳液稳定化的目的,乙烯基吡咯烷酮与含氨基的阳离子化合物的共聚物(B)赋予了化妆品成分和皮肤或头发离子性能,从而借助电排斥力提供稳定性和保护胶体作用,而非离子型纤维素醚(A)起保护和稳定共聚物、改进共聚物分散性和以均匀分布形式吸附到其它化妆品成分上的作用。这两种成分以这种方式协作来解决问题。如果A/B比小于1/50,则组分(A)对组分(B)的保护和稳定会变得不足。如果A/B比大于10/10,则组分(B)的保护和稳定会受到过量组分(A)的阻止。
本发明的护肤或护发用化妆品组合物主要含有前述的组分(A)和(B),并且可以根据化妆品的特定用途、用量或形式而非必需地含有已知的各种组分。例如,可以添加非离子、阳离子或阴离子型表面活性剂、矿物质作为乳液组合物的油组分、动物和植物油、脂肪、合成酯、脂族醇、高级脂族醇、烷基胺、蜡、所谓的矿脂、石蜡油、凡士林、地蜡和类似的油、硅氧烷流体、PEG300二硬脂酸酯、脱水山梨醇一月桂酸酯和三乙醇胺硬脂酸酯以及保湿剂、增稠剂、UV抑制剂、防腐剂、颜料、染料、着色剂、风味剂、芳香剂、消毒剂、抗真菌剂、抗菌剂等等,只要它们不损害本发明的目的即可。
实施例
以下给出本发明的实施例,这些实施例是举例说明性的并且不是限制性的。
实施例1
乙醇                            10wt%
乙烯基吡咯烷酮衍生物            1wt%
非离子型纤维素醚                0.025wt%
丙二醇                          5.0wt%
聚氧乙烯脱水山梨醇一月桂酸酯    1.2wt%
茉莉花香精                      0.2wt%
纯化水                          余量
总计                            100.0wt%
将纯化水在80℃下加热,之后加入羟丙基甲基纤维素粉末(90SH-4000,Shin-Etsu化学有限公司)作为非离子型纤维素醚,并且分散在其中。在5℃下冷却的同时,将其余的组分掺入分散液中,所述其余组分包括N,N-二甲基-N-(3-((2-甲基-1-氧-2-丙烯基)氨基)丙基1-十二烷基氯化铵和N-(3-(二甲基氨基)丙基)-2-甲基丙烯酰胺与1-乙烯基-2-吡咯烷酮的共聚物(商品名称:STYLEZEW-10,InternationalSpecialty Products)作为乙烯基吡咯烷酮衍生物。将所得溶液在50℃下加热,并且在此温度下放置30天,发现此溶液保持稳定。当将溶液涂敷于皮肤上时,其平滑流动并且有效保持皮肤湿润。
实施例2
乙烯基吡咯烷酮衍生物                 5wt%
非离子型纤维素醚                     0.3wt%
三乙醇胺                             0.5wt%
 纯化水                 余量
 总计                   100.0wt%
将纯化水在80℃下加热,之后加入羟丙基甲基纤维素粉末(90SH-4000,Shin-Etsu化学有限公司)作为非离子型纤维素醚,并且分散在其中。在5℃下冷却的同时,将其余的组分掺入分散液中,所述其余组分包括乙烯基吡咯烷酮与甲基丙烯酰胺丙基三甲基氯化铵的共聚物(商品名称:GAFQUATHS-10,International SpecialtyProducts)作为乙烯基吡咯烷酮衍生物。
由所得的组合物制备头发调理/定型凝胶。将其在50℃下加热,并且在此温度下放置30天,发现此凝胶保持稳定。当将凝胶涂敷于头发上时,其平滑流动并且有效保持头发的形状。

Claims (5)

1、一种护肤或护发用化妆品组合物,含有
(A)非离子型纤维素醚,和
(B)乙烯基吡咯烷酮与含氨基的阳离子化合物的共聚物。
2、权利要求1的化妆品组合物,其中所述非离子型纤维素醚是羟丙基甲基纤维素。
3、权利要求1或2的化妆品组合物,其中所述非离子型纤维素醚是通过将非离子型纤维素醚粉末粒化而获得的粒状产物。
4、权利要求1-3任一项的化妆品组合物,其中所述乙烯基吡咯烷酮与含氨基的阳离子化合物的共聚物是1-乙烯基-2-吡咯烷酮与N,N-二甲基-N-(3-((2-甲基-1-氧-2-丙烯基)氨基)丙基)1-十二烷基氯化铵和N-(3-(二甲基氨基)丙基)-2-甲基丙烯酰胺的共聚物、乙烯基吡咯烷酮与甲基丙烯酸N,N-二甲基氨基乙酯二乙基硫酸酯的共聚物,或乙烯基吡咯烷酮与甲基丙烯酰胺丙基三甲基氯化铵的共聚物。
5、权利要求1-4任一项的化妆品组合物,其中组分(B)占组合物总重量的0.01-10wt%,并且组分(A)与组分(B)的重量比为1/50-10/10。
CNB200410005559XA 2003-02-18 2004-02-18 护肤或护发用化妆品组合物 Expired - Fee Related CN100346771C (zh)

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CN104151493A (zh) * 2014-08-04 2014-11-19 成都理工大学 一种乳液防塌剂及其制备方法

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