CN1420756A

CN1420756A - Leave-on skin cosmetic compositions comprising polyhydric alcohol and liquid crystal forming emulsfier

Info

Publication number: CN1420756A
Application number: CN 00818217
Authority: CN
Inventors: 莉萨·C·达菲; 罗伯特·F·戴特
Original assignee: Procter and Gamble Ltd
Current assignee: Procter and Gamble Ltd; Procter and Gamble Co
Priority date: 1999-11-08
Filing date: 2000-11-07
Publication date: 2003-05-28
Also published as: WO2001034100A1; EP1227783A1; IE990934A1; JP2003513896A; AU1362901A

Abstract

A leave-on cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin comprising: (a) from greater than about 20 % to less than about 80 % by weight of a polyhydric alcohol, or mixtures thereof; and (b) from about 2 % to about 45 % by weight an emulsifier which is capable of forming liquid crystals in water. The compositions of the invention display high moisturisation efficacy without the associated high levels of tack, as well as good rheological and absorption properties, in addition to skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness benefits.

Description

The leave skin cosmetic compositions that comprises the emulsifying agent of polyhydric alcohol and formation liquid crystal

Technical field

The present invention relates to cosmetic composition.Particularly relate to the cosmetic composition that has high humidification effect but do not have high viscosity.Except dermal sensation, skin softness and the skin smooth effect of excellence, being rubbed into property (rub-in) and absorbability during application that compositions of the present invention also demonstrates.

Background of invention

Skin is made up of the several layers cell, and these cells cover and protect keratin and the collagen fiber albumen that constitutes the skin texture skeleton.The outermost layer of these layers is called horny layer, and known to the 25nm albumen Shu Zucheng that is surrounded by the thick layer of 8nm.Anion surfactant and organic solvent can penetrate this cutin tunic usually and destroy the integrity of skin by degreasing (promptly removing the lipid in the destratum corneum).This skin surface topography structural damage effect meeting makes skin produce harsh feeling, and surfactant or solvent and keratin are interacted, and produces stimulation.

Now, it has been recognized that along horny layer and keep the suitable gradation of moisture very important for cuticular function.This moisture is considered to cuticular plasticizer sometimes, and great majority wherein come from the body.If humidity is low excessively, for example in cold climate, the water deficient that exists in the outer layer of stratum corneum is with plasticising tissue suitably, thereby skin can be peeled and produced scratchiness.When not having enough moisture in horny layer, percutaneous permeability also has decline to a certain degree.On the other hand, the outside excess moisture of skin can make horny layer finally absorb 3-5 doubly to the bound water of himself weight.This can make skin swelling and wrinkling and cause water and other polar molecule that the permeability of skin is approximately increased 2-3 doubly.

Therefore, people need such compositions, and promptly they can ignore the deleterious interaction that skin may run in cleaning, work and amusement process, and help horny layer to make its isolation and water retaining function remain on optimum state.

Wish that the characteristic that cosmetics cream (cream) and emulsion (lotion) compositions have is good dermal sensation, water-retaining property, humidification, absorbability and is rubbed into characteristic.Can being felt as skin by consumer, to have a dermal sensation of soft feeling and slick compositions relevant with the emollient (emollients) in the compositions, and this emollient can form film or layer after being administered on the skin.The absorption of compositions is with to be rubbed into characteristic relevant with compositions physical property under mechanical stress, and it is subjected to the influence of the rheological property of said composition.

Known have many cosmetics cream and emulsion compositions that in various degree skin moistening, isolation and water conservation (humidification) effect can be provided.In order to bring high humidification to skin, need in compositions, introduce polyalcohols wetting agent material, as glycerol.But, have big weight polyalcohol and thereby dermal compositions with high humidification make consumer feel uncomfortable, reason is can form when this compositions is on being administered to skin very sticking residue.

Therefore, people need to have low viscosity or adhesion always, have high humidification again simultaneously and the compositions of excellent dermal sensation, skin softness and skin smooth effect are provided.

Now, be surprised to find that, can obtain to have the compositions of low viscosity (stickness) or adhesion (tack) by in comprising, introducing the emulsifying agent that can in water, form liquid crystal greater than the leave cosmetic composition of the polyhydric alcohol of about 20% weight.Said composition except dermal sensation, skin softness and skin smooth effect and excellent humidification characteristic are provided, absorbability that also demonstrates and water-retaining property.

The emulsifying agent that can form liquid crystal in water is known can be used in the cosmetic composition.For example, referring to WO 98/22085, WO 97/32560, WO 97/32561 and WO 94/17830, and from the brochure of ICI Surfactants: (1) ' Arlatone ' 2121:Natural emulsifier foroil-in-water milks and creams (Ref.41-5E); (2) Ethylene-oxide-freeoil-in-water (O/W) and water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifiers by Dederen, C.et al. (Ref.RP 72/92E).But the high adhesive of using this class emulsifying agent can reduce the cosmetic composition that comprises high content poly-component alcohol (greater than said composition weight about 20%) is pointed out or hinted to these documents without any one piece.

Invention was both stated

One aspect of the present invention has provided the leave cosmetic composition that is fit to locally apply on the skin, comprising:

(a) greater than about 20% to polyhydric alcohol or its mixture less than about 80% weight; And

(b) about 2% the emulsifying agent that can in water, form liquid crystal to about 45% weight.

Compositions of the present invention except that useful dermal sensation is provided, skin is soft and smooth effect, also have high moisturization efficacy and good rheology and absorption characteristic, and can not produce relevant high adhesive.

Second aspect of the present invention provided the cosmetic method (cosmetic method) of nursing skin, comprises cosmetic composition of the present invention is administered on the skin.

The 3rd aspect of the present invention provided the purposes that can form the emulsifying agent of liquid crystal in water, is used to reduce comprise greater than about 20% to the adhesive less than the skin care compositions and methods of about 80% polyhydric alcohol or its mixture.

The 4th aspect of the present invention provided the purposes of compositions, is used for the leave skin care applications, and above-mentioned composition comprises greater than about 20% to less than about 80% polyhydric alcohol or its mixture and the emulsifying agent that can form liquid crystal in water.

Detailed Description Of The Invention

Compositions of the present invention comprises polyhydric alcohol and basic emulsifier component and hereinafter said various optional members.Except as otherwise noted, all content, ratio are all represented with the weight based on total composition herein.Chain length and ethoxylation degree also are basic representation with the weight average.

When being used for herein, be meant at the term " adhesion (tack) " of leave compositions or " adhesive (tackiness) " and applying lighter pressure and in the short period of time, compositions adheres to the ability on the skin surface of having used said composition gently.

When being used for herein, term " sticking (sticky) " or " viscosity (stickiness) " be consumer through being commonly used to describe their impression to the compositions adhesive, can be actual, also can be subjective.

When being used for herein, term " leave " at skin care compositions is meant that its use does not need rinsing step, therefore after being administered to said composition on the skin, this leave compositions was preferably stayed on the skin at least about 15 minutes, more preferably at least about 30 minutes, also more preferably be at least about 1 hour, and most preferably be at least about 7 hours, for example reach about 12 hours or the longer time.

When being used for herein, term " skin conditioning agent " is meant a kind of like this material, this material can bring the beauty treatment conditioning effect to skin, as humidification, moisture retention (promptly can keep or possess water or wet ability of dividing in the skin), soft and moist property, the vision enhancement of skin surface, the moist effect of skin, the soft effect of skin and the improvement of dermal sensation.

When being used for herein, term " enzyme " is meant wild-type enzyme or its variant, or himself is known, or the chemical modification by engaging with polymer moieties.

When being used for herein, term " wild type " is meant the enzyme that produces by the host that do not suddenly change.

When being used for herein, term " variant " is meant that wherein aminoacid sequence is different from the enzyme of the aminoacid sequence of wild-type enzyme, and this not being both because produce the host gene sudden change of this enzyme causes.

Compositions of the present invention can be used for any appropriate purpose.Particularly, compositions of the present invention is applicable to and locally applies on the skin.Especially, this skin care compositions and methods can be cream, emulsion, gel and analog form.Preferably, cosmetic composition herein can be the emulsion form at one or more oil phases of continuous aqueous phase.

Polyhydric alcohol

As a kind of basis, compositions of the present invention comprises at least a polyhydric alcohol.Compositions of the present invention preferably includes greater than about 20% to being lower than about 80%, more preferably about 22% to about 70%, particularly about 25% polyhydric alcohol or its mixture to about 60% weight.

Be applicable to that polyhydric alcohol of the present invention comprises poly alkylene glycol, more preferably be alkylidene polyol and their derivant, comprise propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol and their derivant, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, erithritol, threitol, tetramethylolmethane, xylitol, glucitol, mannitol, hexanediol, butanediol (for example 1, the 3-butanediol), hexanetriol is (as 1,2,6-hexanetriol), the glycerol and the propenoxylated glycerol of trimethylolpropane, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, ethoxylation.

Preferred polyhydric alcohols of the present invention is selected from glycerol and propenoxylated glycerol or their mixture of glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol and derivant thereof, hexanetriol, ethoxylation.

The polyhydric alcohol that most preferably is used for the present invention is glycerol, butanediol or its mixture.

Emulsifying agent

As second kind of basis, compositions of the present invention comprises the emulsifying agent that can form liquid crystal in water.Compositions not necessarily comprises liquid crystal at ambient temperature.In manufacture process, because cooling, so can form gel network by liquid crystal usually.Have now found that the compositions that forms gel network at ambient temperature can produce excellent result.

In the literature, liquid crystal also refers to anisotropic fluid, the 4th attitude of material, surfactant dependency structure or intermediate phase.These terms usually are used alternatingly.Term " molten (lytropic) that causes " is meant the liquid crystalization system that contains polar solvent such as water.The liquid crystal of using among the present invention is lamellated, hexagonal or clavate structure or its mixed form.

The liquid crystalline phase that is used for the present composition can be discerned by several different methods.Liquid crystalline phase is being sheared current downflow, and is characterized as the viscosity that its viscosity obviously is different from its isotropic aqueous solution phase.

In addition, when observing with micropolariscope, liquid crystal or the gel network that forms at ambient temperature demonstrate discernible birefringence, for example are plane stratiform birefringence; And when observing isotropic aqueous solution and rigid gel under polarized light, they all demonstrate black field (dark fields).Other means that are applicable to the identification liquid crystal comprise X-ray diffraction, NMR spectrum and transmission electron microscope.

Preferably, the emulsifying agent among the present invention is to comprise at least a emulsifying agent and at least a mixture with emulsifying agent of low HLB value with high HLB value (hydrophile-lipophile balance value).This HLB valve system is known in the art and is described in detail in " The HLB System; a Time-Saving Guide toEmulsifier Selection " (ICI Americas Inc., in August, 1984) in, the document is as a reference and in being incorporated herein.The ratio of low HLB value emulsifying agent and high HLB value emulsifying agent is about 10: 1 to about 100: 1 in the mixture.Emulsifying agent to be accounting for composition weight about 2% to about 45%, and preferred about 3% to about 40%, and more preferably from about 3% to about 30% amount is introduced in the compositions.

The HLB value that is applicable to low HLB value emulsifying agent of the present invention is at least 45 ℃ for 1-8 and its fusing point.The example that is applicable to the low HLB value emulsifying agent in the present composition comprises following material: saturated C ₁₆-C ₃₀Aliphatic alcohol, as spermol, stearyl alcohol and tadenan; Saturated C ₁₆-C ₃₀Hydroxy fatty acid, as Palmic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid and hydroxy stearic acid; C ₈-C ₂₄List or polyglycerin ester are as glycerol stearate and distearyl acid triglyceride; C ₈-C ₂₄The polyhydric alcohol list-, two-or three-fatty acid ester, as sorbitan monostearate (by ICI, Wilton, Middlesborough, U.K. obtain with trade name Arlacel 60), three stearic acid Isosorbide Dinitrates (obtaining with trade name Arlacel 65) by ICI, Glucate SS (sequisterate) is (by Amerchol, Edison, NewJersey, U.S.A. obtain with trade name Glucate SS), and polyglycereol-3-methyl glucoside distearate (by Goldschmidt, Hopewell, Virginia, U.S.A. obtain with trade name Tegocare 450), sucrose dipalmitate, sucrose distearate and dextrin hexadecane acid esters; C ₈-C ₃₀Glyceride is as monostearate or distearin (40-60% is single), monostearate, Palmic acid or glyceryl laurate ester (90% is single) and hydroxy stearic acid glyceride; And saturated C ₁₆-C ₃₀The aliphatic alcohol of ethoxylation (contain and have an appointment 1) to about 5 mole ethylene oxides, stearyl polyoxyethylene ether 2 (obtaining with trade name Brij 72) for example by ICI, ceteth 2 (being obtained with trade name Brij 52 by ICI) and docosyl polyoxyethylene ether (beheneth) 5 are (by Nikko Chemical Co., Ltd, Tokyo, Japan obtains with trade name Nikkol BB-5), and their mixture.

The low HLB value emulsifying agent that is used for the present invention is selected from saturated C ₁₆-C ₃₀Aliphatic alcohol; Contain 1 the saturated C that has an appointment to about 5 mole ethylene oxides ₁₆-C ₃₀The aliphatic alcohol of ethoxylation; C ₈-C ₂₄List or polyglycerin ester; C ₈-C ₂₄The polyhydric alcohol list-, two-or three-fatty acid ester, wherein this polyhydric alcohol is preferably selected from dextrin, sugar or sorbitan; Saturated C ₁₆-C ₃₀Hydroxy fatty acid; And their mixture.

The low HLB value emulsifying agent that is preferred among the present invention comprises C ₈-C ₂₄Polyhydric alcohol list-fatty acid ester, wherein this polyhydric alcohol is a sorbitan; Saturated C ₁₆-C ₃₀Aliphatic alcohol; Saturated C ₁₆-C ₃₀Aliphatic alcohol of ethoxylation and composition thereof.C more preferably ₈-C ₂₄Sorbitan fatty acid esters.Most preferably glyceryl monostearate, stearyl alcohol, sorbitan stearate, spermol or their mixture.Particularly preferred low HLB value emulsifying agent is the sorbitan stearate.

High HLB value emulsifying agent has and is higher than 8 HLB value.Be applicable to that high HLB value emulsifying agent of the present invention is cation, anion or non-ionic.Preferably non-ionic.The high HLB value of the nonionic emulsifying agent that is suitable for comprises following ingredients: C ₁-C ₃₀The alkoxylated ether of aliphatic alcohol, for example stearyl polyoxyethylene ether 10 is (with trade name Brij 76 by ICI, Wilton, Middlesborough, U.K. obtain), stearyl polyoxyethylene ether 20 (obtaining by ICI) with trade name Brij 78, stearyl polyoxyethylene ether 21, (obtaining by ICI) with trade name Brij 721, stearyl polyoxyethylene ether 100 (obtaining by ICI) with trade name Brij 700, and spermaceti/stearyl polyoxyethylene ether-12 (with trade name Emulgin B1 by Henkel, LaGrange, Illinois, U.S.A. obtains); C ₁-C ₃₀The alkoxy derivative of fatty acid, as PEG-20-stearate (Myrj49 is obtained by ICI with trade name), PEG-40-stearate (obtaining by ICI), and PEG-100-stearate (Myri59 is obtained by ICI with trade name) with trade name Myrj 52; Alkyl polyoxyalkylene sugar ester, polysorbate60 (obtaining by ICI) for example with trade name Tween 60, the PEG-20-Glucate SS is (with trade name Glucamate SSE 20 by Amerchol, Edison, New Jersey, U.S.A. obtains), and the PEG-20-glyceryl monostearate is (with trade name Tagat S2 by Goldschmidt, Hopewell, Virginia, U.S.A. obtains); Single-, two-or three-sucrose fatty acid ester, be preferably sucrose monofatty acid ester, as sucrose Cortex cocois radicis ester (cocoate) (with trade name Crodesta SL-40 by Croda Surfactants, Goole, England obtains), and sucrose hexadecane acid esters (with trade name Ryoto Sugar Ester P-1570 by Mitsubishi-Kasei, Tokyo, Japan obtains), and sucrose stearate (obtaining by Croda Surfactants with trade name Crodesta F-160); C ₁-C ₃₀Polyglycerol fatty acid ester, for example single-or two-stearic acid, ten glyceride; And the C of polyhydric alcohol ₁-C ₃₀Ether, for example 16/octadecyl glucoside, and their mixture.

Be applicable to that the high HLB value of anion of the present invention emulsifying agent comprises lactate, as the stearyl sodium lactate (from Nikko Chemical Co., Ltd); Phosphate ester and salt, as cetyl p diethylaminobenzoic acid hydramine (with trade name Amphisol by Givaudan-Roure, Clifton, New Jersey, U.S.A. obtains), the cetyl potassium phosphate is (with trade name Amphisol K by Nikko Chemical Co., Ltd obtains), sulfuric ester, as cocos nucifera oil monoglyceride sodium sulfate (from Nikko Chemical Co., and their mixture Ltd).

Be applicable to that the high HLB value of cation of the present invention emulsifying agent comprises tetraalkylammonium salt, and as two (, cetyl) or VARISOFT TA100 (from Witco, Greenwich, Connecticut, U.S.A.); And fatty acid amide, as stearyl pyridinium (steapyrium) hydrochlorate (from Witco), and their mixture.

The high HLB value emulsifying agent that is preferred among the present invention is the C of polyhydric alcohol ₁-C ₃₀Ether; C ₁-C ₃₀The alkoxylated ether of aliphatic alcohol; Single-, two-or three-sucrose fatty acid ester; Perhaps their mixture.List-sucrose fatty acid ester and two-or the mixture of three-sucrose ester in, preferred monoesters accounts at least 70% of total sucrose ester mixture weight, more preferably 80%.Most preferred high HLB value emulsifying agent be single-, two-or three-sucrose fatty ester.Particularly preferred high HLB value emulsifying agent is a sucrose Cortex cocois radicis ester.

The emulsifying agent that is used for the present invention most preferably is based on the fatty acid ester blends (blend), particularly sorbitan stearate of sorbitan fatty acid esters and sucrose-fatty ester admixture and the mixture of sucrose Cortex cocois radicis ester.This material can be bought with trade name Arlatone 2121 by ICI.

In compositions of the present invention, the concentration that polyhydric alcohol and emulsifying agent add together is about 10% to about 99%, preferred about 15% to about 95%, particularly about 20% to about 90% of composition weight.

Optional ingredients

Oil phase

Preferably, cosmetic composition of the present invention is with the emulsion form of one or more oil phases in containing water continuous phase, and each oil phase comprises the oiliness mixture of ingredients of single a kind of oiliness composition or miscible or homogenizing form.Different oil phases contains different materials or different material mixture each other.The aggregate level of oil-phase component in the present composition is generally about 0.1% to about 60%, is preferably about 1% to about 30%, more preferably about 1% to about 10%.

Preferably, the oil-phase component in the present composition comprises emollient materials or its mixture, and polysiloxane oil or its mixture.

In preferred embodiments, this oil phase preferably includes additional oiliness composition, is selected from mineral oil, vegetable oil and animal oil as natural or artificial oil, fat and wax and composition thereof.The amount of these oiliness compositions account for composition weight about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10%.Being preferred among the present invention for example is hydrocarbon, as mineral oil or vaseline.Be applicable to that other example of the present invention is disclosed among the WO 98/22085.

Emollient materials

Compositions of the present invention can comprise emollient materials, and they are selected from weight average molecular weight is about 100 to about 15000, is preferably about 100 to about 1000 side chain hydro carbons; Chemical compound with general formula I:

Formula I

R in the formula ¹Be selected from H or CH ₃, R ², R ³And R ⁴Be independently selected from C ₁-C ₂₀The straight or branched alkyl, and x is the integer of 1-20, and the chemical compound with general formula (II): Formula II

R in the formula ⁵Be selected from optional by hydroxyl or C ₁-C ₄The benzyl that alkyl replaces, and R ⁶Be selected from C ₁-C ₂₀Branched-chain or straight-chain alkyl; And their mixture.

Be applicable to that branched-chain hydrocarbons of the present invention is selected from Fancol ID, 2-Methylpentadecane, Isoeicosane, isoctahexacontane (isooctahexacontane), different 105 hexadecanes (isohexapentacontahectane), different 800 henpentacontanes (isopentacontaoctactane), vaseline, and their mixture.Being applicable to of the present invention is branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbons, they sell with trade name Permethyl (RTM) and can from Presperse Inc. (P.O.Box 735, South Plainfield, N.J.07080 U.S.A.) buys.The suitable ester skin moistening material with above-mentioned general formula I includes but not limited to the isostearic acid methyl ester, isostearic acid isopropyl ester, the different stearyl ester of neopentanoic acid, isononyl isononanoate, sad isodecyl ester, different isodecyl pelargonate, different n-nonanoic acid ester in three last of the ten Heavenly stems, sad tetradecane ester, octyl pelargonate, different octyl pelargonate, myristic acid tetradecane ester, neopentanoic acid tetradecane ester, sad tetradecane ester, propanoic acid tetradecane ester, isopropyl myristate and composition thereof.The suitable ester skin moistening material with general formula (II) includes but not limited to C _12-15Alkyl benzoate.

Emollient preferred for the present invention is 2-Methylpentadecane, different 80 alkane (isooctacontane), vaseline, isononyl isononanoate, sad isodecyl ester, different isodecyl pelargonate, different n-nonanoic acid ester in three last of the ten Heavenly stems, sad tetradecane ester, different octyl pelargonate, myristic acid tetradecane ester, isostearic acid methyl ester, isostearic acid isopropyl ester, benzoic acid C _12-15Arrcostab and composition thereof.

Being particularly preferred for emollient of the present invention is 2-Methylpentadecane, isononyl isononanoate, isostearic acid methyl ester, isostearic acid isopropyl ester, vaseline or its mixture.

The emollient materials preferably amount in compositions is about 0.1% to about 10%, preferred about 0.1% to about 8%, particularly about 0.5% to about 5% of a said composition weight.

The polyol carboxylate

Compositions of the present invention can also comprise that the polyol carboxylate is as additional emollient.

Compositions of the present invention preferably includes and accounts for composition weight about 0.01% to about 20%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about polyol ester of 15%, particularly about 0.1% to about 10%.Level of polyol ester is preferably about 1% to about 30%, more preferably about 5% to about 20% in the weight of compositions medium oil.From the viewpoint of measures of effect that better skin softness and slickness are provided, the weight ratio of polyol carboxylic acid ester and skin moistening material is preferably about 5: 1 to about 1: 5, more preferably about 2: 1 to about 1: 2.

The polynary ester of polyhydric alcohol that is preferred among the present invention is the C of sugar ₁-C ₃₀Single-and polyester and related substances.These esters are formed by sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic moiety.Depend on to form the sour and sugared of ester, these esters at room temperature can be liquid, also can be solids.Example comprises: four oleic acid glucose esters, oleic galactose four esters, four oleic acid sorbitol esters, four oleic acid sucrose ester, five oleic acid sucrose ester, six oleic acid sucrose ester, seven oleic acid sucrose ester, eight oleic acid sucrose ester, sorbitol six esters (wherein carboxylate moiety is that mol ratio is 1: 2 palm acid ester and an Arachidate), and the octaester of sucrose (wherein the carboxylic moiety of this esterification is that mol ratio is 1: 3: 4 a laurate, linoleate and docosane acid esters).Other material comprises the Oleum Gossypii semen or the soya fatty acid ester of sucrose.Other example of these materials is disclosed among the WO 96/16636, and the document is incorporated herein as a reference.The known little INCI name of particularly preferred material is called the material of the poly-Oleum Gossypii semen acid esters of sucrose.

Polysiloxane oil

Compositions of the present invention can comprise at least a polysiloxanes oil phase.Polysiloxane oil account for usually mutually compositions about 0.1% to about 20%, preferred about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5%.This polysiloxanes oil phase or each polysiloxanes oil phase preferably include one or more polysiloxanes compositions.

The polysiloxanes composition can be liquid (fluid), comprises straight chain, side chain and cyclic polysiloxanes.Be applicable to that the polyorganosiloxane fluid among the present invention comprises siloxanes, the polysiloxanes that comprises siloxanes, amino and the quaternary ammonium modification of poly-alkylsiloxane liquid, poly-aryl siloxanes liquid, ring-type and linear poly-alkylsiloxane, poly-alkoxylation, polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane or polyether siloxane copolymer and composition thereof.Polyorganosiloxane fluid can be volatile, also can be nonvolatile.Polyorganosiloxane fluid has usually and is lower than about 200,000 weight average molecular weight.The weight average molecular weight of the silicone liquid that is suitable for is about 100,000 or still less, is preferably about 50,000 or still less, is most preferably 10,000 or lower.It is about 100 to about 50000 that preferred polyorganosiloxane fluid is selected from weight average molecular weight, preferred about 200 to about 40000 polyorganosiloxane fluid.Typically, the viscosity of polyorganosiloxane fluid 25 ℃ down for about 0.65 to about 600,000mm ².s ^-1, preferred about 0.65 to about 10,000mm ².s ^-1This viscosity can be measured by glass capillary tube viscometer, and is as at Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, said in 29 days July in 1970.Be applicable to that polydimethylsiloxane among the present invention for example comprises by GeneralElectric Company with SF and Viscasil (RTM) series and those polysiloxanes of being obtained with DowCorning 200 series by Dow Corning.What be suitable for is nonvolatile polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane in addition basically, is about 0.65 to about 30 25 ℃ of following viscosity for example, 000mm ².s ^-1PSI.These siloxanes can be SF 1075 aminomethyl phenyl fluids available from for example General Electric Company, are 556 cosmetics-stage fluids available from Dow Corning perhaps.Be applicable to that annular dimethyl polysiloxane of the present invention is to have introduced about 3 to about 7 (CH ₃) ₂The circulus of SiO part.

In preferred embodiments, this polyorganosiloxane fluid is selected from polydimethylsiloxane, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, phenyl polymethyl siloxane (methicone) and composition thereof.

Silicone gums (silicone gum) also is applicable to the present invention.Term " silicone gums " in this article refers to weight average molecular weight and surpasses approximately 200000, is preferably about 200000 to about 400000 high molecular polysiloxanes.Comprising nonvolatile poly-alkyl and poly-aryl polysiloxane glue.In preferred embodiments, the polysiloxanes oil phase comprises silicone gums or comprises the mixture of the polysiloxanes of silicone gums.Typically, silicone gums under 25 ℃, have surpass about 1,000,000mm ²s ^-1Viscosity.This silicone gums comprises polydimethylsiloxane, as by Petrarch and other document, comprises US-A-4,152,416 (authorizing people such as Spitzer on May 1st, 1979) and Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, (Noll, Walter, New York:Academic Press 1968).Describe the General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30 in addition of silicone gums, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76.The instantiation of silicone gums comprises polydimethylsiloxane, poly-(dimethyl siloxane) (ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer, poly-(dimethyl siloxane) (diphenyl) (ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer and composition thereof.Be preferred for siloxane glue among the present invention and be molecular weight and be about 200,000 to about silicone gums of 4,000,000, they are selected from dimethiconol and polydimethylsiloxane and their mixture.

Polysiloxanes among the present invention preferably includes siloxane glue mutually, and it is to join in the said composition as the part that siloxane glue-liquid is mixed in the thing.When this siloxane glue adds fashionablely as the part in siloxane glue-liquid mixture, this siloxane glue preferably accounts for about 5% to about 40%, particularly about 10% to about 20% of this siloxanes natural gum-liquid mixture weight.Be applicable to that siloxanes natural gum liquid mixture of the present invention is the mixture of being made up of following ingredients basically:

(i) molecular weight is about 200,000 to about polysiloxanes of 4,000,000, is selected from dimethiconol, fluoro polysiloxanes and polydimethylsiloxane and composition thereof; And

(ii) carrier, it is a kind of silicone liquid, the viscosity of this carrier is about 0.65mm ².s ^-1-100mm ².s ^-1,

I wherein) be that the final viscosity of about 10: 90 to about 20: 80 and wherein said composition based on siloxane glue is about 100mm with ii) ratio ².s ^-1To about 100,000mm ².s ^-1, be preferably about 500mm ².s ^-1To about 10,000mm ².s ^-1

Be particularly preferred in the present composition is that molecular weight is that about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 dimethiconol glue and viscosity are about 0.65 to about 100mm based on silicone gums-liquid mixture composition ².s ^-1The polyorganosiloxane fluid carrier.The example of polysiloxanes composition is the Dow Coming Q2-1403 (85%5mm that is bought by DowCorning ².s ^-1Polydimethylsiloxane liquid/15% dimethiconol) and Dow Corning Q2-1401.

Be applicable to that other polysiloxanes composition in the polysiloxane oil of the present invention is crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer, it randomly is dispersed in the liquid-carrier.Usually, when exist crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer with and carrier when (if present), they be said composition 0.1% to about 20%, be preferably about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.5% to about 5%.This polymer comprises with the crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer of cross-linking agent.The cross-linking agent that is suitable for is disclosed among the WO 98/22085.The example that is applicable to organo-siloxanes polymer of the present invention comprises the methyl ethylene polydimethylsiloxane, methyl ethylene biphenyl polydimethylsiloxane and methyl ethylene benzyl biphenyl polydimethylsiloxane.

The concrete crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer that can buy from the market that is used for the present invention is a siloxanes vinyl cross linked polymer mixture, and by Shinetsu ChemicalCo., Ltd provides with trade name KSG for it, KSG-15 for example, KSG-16, KSG-17, KSG-18.These materials contain the mixture of crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer and polyorganosiloxane fluid.Be particularly preferred for the present invention and particularly with organic amphipathic emulsifying agent combination of materials be KSG-18.KSG-15, KSG-16, the specified INCI name of KSG-17 and KSG-18 is respectively cyclopolymethyl siloxane polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl-dimethyl based polysiloxane cross linked polymer, polydimethylsiloxane polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl-dimethyl based polysiloxane cross linked polymer, cyclopolymethyl siloxane polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl-dimethyl based polysiloxane cross linked polymer and phenyl gather trimethicone (trimethicone) polydimethylsiloxane/phenyl vinyl dimethyl polysiloxane cross linked polymer.

Be applicable to that the another kind of polysiloxanes composition in the polysiloxanes oil phase of the present invention comprises polydiorganosiloxanepolyurea-polyoxyalkylene copolymers, wherein contain at least one polydiorganosiloxanepolyurea segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment.The polydiorganosiloxanepolyurea segment and the copolymer thereof that are suitable for are disclosed among the WO98/22085.Polydiorganosiloxanepolyurea-polyene the copolymer that is suitable for trade name Belsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Gesch  ftsbereich S, Postfach D-8000 Munich 22 buy and with trade name Abil (RTM) by Th.Goldschmidt Ltd., Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 0YL buys, for example Belsil (RTM) 6031 and Abil (RTM) B88183.The copolymer liquid mixture that is particularly preferred among the present invention comprises Dow CorningDC3225C, its CTFA called after polydimethyl siloxanes/polydimethy siloxanes polyol.

Polymeric viscosifier

Compositions of the present invention can comprise at least a polymeric viscosifier.

Be used for number-average molecular weight that the present invention's polymeric viscosifier preferably has greater than 20,000,, particularly preferably be greater than 100,000 more preferably greater than 50,000.

Usually, compositions of the present invention can comprise account for composition weight about 0.01% to about 10%, preferred about 0.1% to about polymeric viscosifier of 8%, most preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% or its mixture.

Be not bound by theory, it is believed that in the compositions that comprises polyalcohols wetting agent and polymeric viscosifier, may in polyalcohols wetting agent and said composition, between existing any polymeric viscosifier the physics association take place.This physics association between polyalcohols wetting agent and the polymeric viscosifier is the aggravation shown viscosity that goes out in the compositions that includes only a large amount of polyalcohols wetting agents further.

The polymeric viscosifier that is preferred among the present invention comprises non-ionic thickening agent and anionic thickener or its mixture.The non-ionic thickening agent that is suitable for comprises polyacrylamide polymers, crosslinked poly-(N-vinyl pyrrolidone), polysaccharide, natural or paragutta, polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinyl alcohol.The anionic thickener that is suitable for comprises acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer, carboxy vinyl polymer and crosslinked alkyl vinyl ether and copolymer-maleic anhydride.The thickening agent that is particularly preferred among the present invention is the nonionic polyacrylamide polymers, as polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7 (it is bought by Seppic Corporation with trade name Sepigel 305), and acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer and carboxy vinyl polymer (selling with trade mark Carbopol resin) or their mixture by B.F.Goodrich Company.Suitable Carbopol resins can be through hydrophobically modified and other appropriate resin be disclosed among the WO 98/22085 perhaps their mixture.

Wetting agent

Compositions of the present invention can comprise additional humectants, and they are preferably with about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably with about 0.1% to about 15%, particularly exists with about 0.5% to about 15% amount.

Be applicable to that additional humectants of the present invention is 2-Pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid sodium (NaPCA), guanidine; Glycolic and glycollate (as ammonium and tetraalkylammonium salt); Lactic acid and lactate (as ammonium and tetraalkylammonium salt); Any type of Aloe (as Aloe glue); Hyaluronic acid and derivant thereof (as salt derivative, as hyaluronate sodium); The lactamide monoethanolamine; The acetamide monoethanolamine; Urea; Pantothenylol and derivant thereof; And composition thereof.

Can add with form to small part (being up to composition weight about 5%) additional humectants with the mixture of granular crosslinked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer, the amount of himself is preferably about 0.1% to about 10%, can join aqueous phase, also can join in the decentralized photo.To help to provide effective humidification effect simultaneously be valuable especially to this copolymer for reducing gloss and control oils and fats, and detailed content is described among the WO 96/03964, and the document is incorporated herein as a reference.

The chemical compound of listing above can add separately, also can make up adding.Preferred additional humectants is selected from urea, pantothenylol and composition thereof.

Enzyme

In preferred embodiments, compositions of the present invention comprises that one or more are selected from protease, lipase, phospholipase, glycosidase, lactoperoxidase, cellulase, and composition thereof enzyme, particularly protease.This enzyme is preferably to account for composition weight about 0.0001% to about 5%, more preferably exists to about level of 1%, particularly about 0.001% to about 0.1% with about 0.0005%.

Protease is classified according to enzyme classification E.C.3.4 (carboxylic ester hydrolases) according to the recommendation (1992) of International Union of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology (IUBMB).Useful proteases also is disclosed in the open text of PCT: by The Procter ﹠amp; Gamble Company application and in disclosed WO 95/30010 on November 9 nineteen ninety-five; By The Procter ﹠amp; Gamble Company application and in disclosed WO 95/30011 on November 9 nineteen ninety-five; By The Procter ﹠amp; GambleCompany application and in November 9 nineteen ninety-five disclosed WO 95/29979.Being preferred for protease of the present invention is subtilisin, chymase and elastoser type protease.

Being particularly preferred for of the present invention is subtilisin type protease.Subtilisin is by Alkaliphilic bacillus (Bacillus alcalophilus), bacillus amyloliquefaciens (Bacillusamyloliquefaciens), starch saccharification bacillus (Bacillus amylosaccharicus), bacillus licheniformis (Bacillus licheniformis), bacillus lentus (Bacillus lentus) and the natural generation of bacillus subtilis (Bacillus subtilis) microorganism.

Particularly preferred bacillus subtilis type enzyme is bacterial serine protease and variant thereof, obtain by bacillus amyloliquefaciens, bacillus licheniformis and/or bacillus subtilis, Alcalase , the Esperase , the Savinase  (Copenhagen that comprise Novo Industries A/S, Denmark), Gist-brocades ' Maxatase , Maxacal  and Maxapem 15  (the Maxacal  that protein engineering is transformed) (Delft, Netherlands), and subtilisin BPN and BPN ', they can buy from the market.

Particularly preferably be the protease and the variant thereof that obtain by bacillus amyloliquefaciens.A kind of known enzyme is BPN '.Wild type BPN ' from bacillus amyloliquefaciens is characterised in that aminoacid sequence:

1???????????????????????????????????10??????????????????????????????????????20

Ala?Gln?Ser?Val?Pro?Tyr?Gly?Val?Ser?Gln?Ile?Lys?Ala?Pro?Ala?Leu?His?Ser?Gln?Gly

30??????????????????????????????????????40

Tyr?Thr?Gly?Ser?Asn?Val?Lys?Val?Ala?Val?Ile?Asp?Ser?Gly?Ile?Asp?Ser?Ser?His?Pro

50??????????????????????????????????????60

Asp?Leu?Lys?Val?Ala?Gly?Gly?Ala?Ser?Met?Val?Pro?Ser?Glu?Thr?Asn?Pro?Phe?Gln?Asp

70??????????????????????????????????????80

Asn?Asn?Ser?His?Gly?Thr?His?Val?Ala?Gly?Thr?Val?Ala?Ala?Leu?Asn?Asn?Ser?Ile?Gly

90??????????????????????????????????????100

Val?Leu?Gly?Val?Ala?Pro?Ser?Ala?Ser?Leu?Tyr?Ala?Val?Lys?Val?Leu?Gly?Ala?Asp?Gly

110?????????????????????????????????????120

Ser?Gly?Gln?Tyr?Ser?Trp?Ile?Ile?Asn?Gly?Ile?Glu?Trp?Ala?Ile?Ala?Asn?Asn?Met?Asp

130?????????????????????????????????????140

Val?Ile?Asn?Met?Ser?Leu?Gly?Gly?Pro?Ser?Gly?Ser?Ala?Ala?Leu?Lys?Ala?Ala?Val?Asp

150?????????????????????????????????????160

Lys?Ala?Val?Ala?Ser?Gly?Val?Val?Val?Val?Ala?Ala?Ala?Gly?Asn?Glu?Gly?Thr?Ser?Gly

170?????????????????????????????????????180

Ser?Ser?Ser?Thr?Val?Gly?Tyr?Pro?Gly?Lys?Tyr?Pro?Ser?Val?Ile?Ala?Val?Gly?Ala?Val

190?????????????????????????????????????200

Asp?Scr?Scr?Asn?Gln?Arg?Ala?Ser?Phe?Ser?Ser?Val?Gly?Pro?Glu?Leu?Asp?Val?Met?Ala

210?????????????????????????????????????220

Pro?Gly?Val?Ser?Ile?Gln?Ser?Thr?Leu?Pro?Gly?Asn?Lys?Tyr?Gly?Ala?Tyr?Asn?Gly?Thr

230?????????????????????????????????????240

Ser?Met?Ala?Ser?Pro?His?Val?Ala?Gly?Ala?Ala?Ala?Leu?Ile?Leu?Ser?Lys?His?Pro?Asn

250?????????????????????????????????????260

Trp?Thr?Asn?Thr?Gln?Val?Arg?Ser?Ser?Leu?Glu?Asn?Thr?Thr?Thr?Lys?Leu?Gly?Asp?Ser

270?????????????????275

Phe?Tyr?Tyr?Gly?Lys?Lys?Gly?Leu?Ile?Asn?Asn?Val?Gln?Ala?Ala?Ala?Gln

The variant of BPN ' is called " protease A " hereinafter, is disclosed in United States Patent (USP) 5,030, in 378 (being presented to Venegas on July 9th, 1991), it is characterized in that having the BPN ' aminoacid sequence of following sudden change:

A). the Gly that is positioned at Gly166 is by Asn, Ser, Lys, Arg, His, Gln, Ala or Glu replace; The Gly that is positioned at Gly169 is replaced by Ser; The Met that is positioned at Met222 is by Gln, Phe, and Cys, His, Asn, Glu, Ala or Thr replace; Perhaps

B). the Gly that is positioned at Gly166 is replaced by Lys and the Met that is positioned at Met222 is replaced by Cys; Perhaps

C). the Gly that is positioned at Gly160 is replaced by Ala and the Met that is positioned at Met222 is replaced by Ala.

Other BPN ' variant is called " protease B " hereinafter, and by Genencor International, (San Francisco California) is disclosed in European patent EP-B-251 to Inc., in 446 (in December in 1994 mandates on the 28th and open on January 7th, 1988), it is characterized in that wild type BPN ' aminoacid, it has sudden change: Tyr21, Thr22 on one or more following aminoacid, Ser24, Asp36, Ala45, Ala48, Ser49, Met50, His67, Ser87, Lys94, Val95, Gly97, Ser101, Gly102, Gly103, Ile107, Gly110, Met 124, Gly127, Gly128, Pro129, Leu135, Lys170, Tyr171, Pro172, Asp197, Met199, Ser204, Lys213, Tyr214, Gly215 and Ser221; Perhaps on two or more above-mentioned aminoacid and following aminoacid, have sudden change: Asp32, Ser33, Tyr104, Ala152, Asn155, Glu156, Gly166, Gly169, Phe189, Tyr217, and Met222, wherein two kinds of sudden changes all do not occur in Asp32, Ser33, Tyr104, Ala152, Asn155, Glu156, Gly166, Gly169, Phe189 is on Tyr217 and the Met222 aminoacid.

Another kind of preferred BPN ' misfolded proteins enzyme is called " protease D " hereinafter, is disclosed among the WO 95/10615 by the GenencorInternational application and April 20 nineteen ninety-five, it is characterized in that its wild type BPN ' aminoacid, it has sudden change at the Asn76 place, and has sudden change at one or more following aminoacid place: Asp99, Ser101, Gln103, Tyr104, Ser105, Ile107, Asn109, Asn123, Leu126, Gly127, Gly128, Leu135, Glu156, Gly166, Glu195, Asp197, Ser204, Gln206, Pro210, Ala216, Tyr217, Asn218, Met222, Ser260, Lys265 and/or Ala274.

Another kind of preferred BPN ' misfolded proteins enzyme is called " Protease F " hereinafter, is disclosed in the United States Patent (USP) 4,760 that was issued to people such as Estell on July 26th, 1988, in 025, it is characterized in that its wild type BPN ' aminoacid has sudden change: Asp32, Ser33 on one or more following amino acid positions, His64, Tyr104, Asn155, Glu156, Gly166, Gly169, Phe189, Tyr217 and Met222.Preferred proteolytic enzymes is selected from Alcalase , BPN ', protease A, protease B, protease D, Protease F and composition thereof.Wherein Protease F is most preferred.

Be applicable to that of the present invention being designed in addition keeps the active protease that can reduce possible allergenicity (allergy) reaction simultaneously again of high level.The example of these protease comprises the protease of chemical modification, as those protease molecules of modifying with a plurality of twin polymer moieties that engage with this protease and at those protease molecules described in the common unsettled U.S. Patent application 09/088912 that is proposed on July 8th, 1998 by The Procter and Gamble Company.

Be designed for other example that is suitable for that the allergenicity that show to reduce keeps highly active protease simultaneously and be some protease molecules like this, its epitope regions is positioned (mapped) and next continuously changes by removing, change or hide the epi-position amino acid sequence region.Epitope regions be it is believed that it is those proteinase activity amino acid regions that can cause allergenic reaction.The example that is applicable to these ease variants of the present invention is included in the common pending application 60/079447 of the U.S. and 60/079397 that proposed on March 26th, 1998 those by The Procter and Gamble Company, and these two pieces of documents all are incorporated herein as a reference.

Salt

Compositions of the present invention can also comprise the salt that is selected from alkali metal salt and alkali salt and composition thereof, is preferably sodium salt, calcium salt and magnesium salt and composition thereof.Being particularly preferred for of the present invention is calcium salt and magnesium salt.The amount that compositions of the present invention preferably includes based on metal ion is the salt of about 50ppm to about 400ppm.

Multiple optional ingredients such as additional thickening agent, nertralizer, spice and coloring agent can also be joined in the skin composition of the present invention.

Be applicable to and the present invention in contain the hydrophilic gelling agent of acidic-group nertralizer comprise sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, amino methyl propanol, TRIS buffer and triethanolamine.

Compositions of the present invention is emulsion form and preferably be mixed with viscosity and be at least approximately 4 normally, and 000mPa.s is preferably about 4,000 to about 1,000,000mPa.s, more preferably about 8,000 to about 350,000mPa.s, particularly about 10,000 to about 250,000mPa.s, even more preferably about 10,000 to about 150, and 000mPa.s (25 ℃, clean, B rookfield RVT, TS pindle, rotating speed are 5 rev/mins and Heliopath Stand) product.

Compositions of the present invention can also contain has an appointment 0.01% to about 10%, and preferred about 0.1% to about 5% pantothenylol humidizer.This pantothenylol humidizer can be selected from D-panthenol ([R]-2; 4-dihydroxy-N-[3-hydroxypropyl)]-3,3-amide dimethyl butyrate), DL-pantothenylol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, panthetine, pantotheine, general benzyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, Benadon (pyridoxin), pantoyl base lactose and vitamin B complex.

Other optional materials comprises keratolytic agent/desquamation agent, as salicylic acid; But the antiseptic of water soluble or solubilising, preferred its amount is for about 0.1% to about 5%, as Germall 115, methyl hydroxybenzoate, ethyl ester, propyl ester and butyl ester, benzylalcohol, DMDM Hydantoin iodo propyl group butyl carbamate (carbanate) (obtaining by Lonza) with trade name Glydant Plus, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM) K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-glycol) and phenoxypropanol; Antibacterial is as Irgasan (RTM) and phenyl phenol (preferably its amount is about 0.1% to about 5%); Soluble humidizer of soluble or gel such as hyaluronic acid (hylaronic acid) and starch-grafted sodium polyacrylate such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, (they are by Celanese Superabsorbent Materials for IM-1500 and IM-2500, Portsmith, VA, USA obtains) and be disclosed in USA-A-4, in 076,663; Vitamin such as vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E and derivant thereof, and vitamin K; α and beta hydroxy acid; Aloe; Sphingol and phytosphingosine, cholesterol; Skin whitener; The N-acetylcysteine; Coloring agent; Antibacterial such as TCC/TCS are also referred to as triclosan and triclocarban; Spice and spice solubilizing agent.

Can be used for the sunscreen that also has among the present invention.The United States Patent (USP) 5,087,445 that issue the 11 days February in 1992 that various sunscreen are described in people such as Haffey; The United States Patent (USP) 5,073,372 that people's such as Torner Decembers in 1991 were issued on the 17th; People's such as United States Patent (USP) 5,073,371 that people's such as Torner Decembers in 1991 were issued on the 17th and Segarin Cosmetics Science and TechnologyThe 8th chapter is in the 189th page.In these sunscreen, be preferred for being selected from p-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester, N, N-dimethyl-Para-Aminobenzoic 2-ethyl hexyl ester in the present composition, Para-Aminobenzoic, 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene (octocrylene), oxybenzone, the high menthyl ester of salicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, 4,4 '-methoxyl group- Uncle-butyl dibenzoyl methane, 4-isopropyl diphenyl formoxyl methane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3-(4-methyl benzal) Camphora; titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silicon dioxide, ferrum oxide; Parsol MCX, Eusolex 6300, octocrylene, Parsol1789 and their mixture.Other sunscreen that is suitable for is disclosed in United States Patent (USP) 4,937,370 (Sabatelli, issue June 26 nineteen ninety); United States Patent (USP) 4,999,186 (people such as Sabatelli, on March 12nd, 1991 issued).

Usually, this sunscreen accounts for about 0.5% to about 20% of present composition weight.Accurately amount changes with selected sunscreen and required sun protection factor (SPF).SPF is commonly used to weigh the photoprotection of sunscreen to erythema.Referring to Federal Register, (Vol.43, No.166, pp.38206-38269, on August 25th, 1978).

Compositions of the present invention can comprise the about 0.1% starch ocentyl succinic aluminum to about 5% weight in addition.Starch ocentyl succinic aluminum is the aluminum salt of the product of octenyl succinic acid anhydride and starch, and can trade name Dry Flo by National Starch ﹠amp; Chemical Ltd. buys.From dermal sensation with use the angle of feature, Dry Flo is applicable to the present invention.

Other optional, materials among the present invention comprises pigment, when it when being water-fast, it can become oil-phase component and be included in the oil-phase component total amount.Be applicable to that the pigment in the present composition can be organic or inorganic pigment.Be included in and have low color or glossy material in addition in the term pigment,, also have astigmatic agent as delustering agent.Preferably, compositions of the present invention comprises that refractive index is about 1.3 to about 1.7 microparticle material, and this microparticle material is dispersed in the said composition and intermediate value grain warp is about 2 to about 30 microns.Preferably, the microgranule that is used for the present invention has the distribution that is rather narrow, and the granule more than 50% drops in the 3 μ m of the either side of intermediate value separately in other words.Preferably more than 50%, preferred more than 60% in addition, more preferably the granule more than 70% drops in the magnitude range that intermediate value requires separately.Suitable particulate matter is organic or organopolysiloxane, and is preferably organopolysiloxane polymer.Preferred granule is free-pouring solid material.So-called " solid " is meant that this granule is not hollow.Exist the space refractive index to produce harmful effect at the center of hollow bead, therefore also can influence the visual effect of granule on skin or in the compositions.Suitable organic particulate materials comprises by polymethylsilsesquioxane, above mentioned those materials that polyamide, polyethylene, polyacrylonitrile, polyacrylic acid, polymethylacrylic acid, polystyrene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and poly-(dichloroethylene) are made.The copolymer that can also adopt the monomer by above-mentioned substance to obtain.Inorganic material comprises silicon dioxide and borazon.The representational example that can buy from the market of particulate matter that can be used among the present invention is Tospearl ^145 (median diameter is about 4.5 μ m) are from the EA-209 of Kobo ^(median diameter is about 10 microns ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer), Nylon-12 (by ElfAtochem, France obtains with trade name Orgasol2002), perhaps their mixture.

Other example of suitable pigment is a titanium dioxide, pre-dispersed titanium dioxide (from Kobo, for example Kobo GWL75CAP), ferrum oxide, acyl glutamic acid ferrum oxide, ultra marine blue, D﹠amp; The C dyestuff, carmine and composition thereof.According to the kind of compositions, can use the mixture of pigment usually.Consider humidification, dermal sensation, skin appearance and the emulsion compatibility, the pigment that is preferred among the present invention is treated pigment.These pigment can be handled with chemical compound such as aminoacid, polysiloxanes, lecithin and ester oil.

Vitamin B ₃Composition

Compositions of the present invention can also comprise the vitamin B of safety and effective dose ₃Chemical compound.Compositions of the present invention preferably includes about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably about 0.5% to about 10%, and also more preferably about 1% to about 8%, most preferably is about 1.5% to about 6% vitamin B ₃Chemical compound.

When being used for herein, " vitamin B ₃Chemical compound " be meant chemical compound with following general formula:

R is-CONH in the formula ₂(being nicotinamide) ,-COOH (being nicotinic acid) or-CH ₂OH (being nicotinyl alcohol); And derivant; The salt of above-mentioned any composition.Said vitamin B ₃The exemplary derivant of chemical compound comprises nicotinate, comprises the non-vasodilation ester of nicotinic acid, cigarette base aminoacid, the nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acid, nicotinic acid N-oxide and nicotinamide N-oxide.

The ester of suitable nicotinic acid comprises C ₁-C ₂₂, preferred C ₁-C ₁₆, more preferably C ₁-C ₆The nicotinate of alcohol.Suitable is, and these alcohol are straight or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (comprising aromatics) and that replace or unsubstituted alcohol.These esters preferably are non-vasodilation esters.When being used for herein, " non-vasodilation " is meant generally can not produce tangible rubescent reaction (rubescent reaction as can be seen can not appear in most of people, though the vasodilation that these chemical compounds may cause naked eyes to see) when this ester is administered on the skin in the present composition.The non-vasodilation ester of nicotinic acid comprises tocopheryl nicotinate and hexanicotinate; Tocopheryl nicotinate is preferred.Relevant vitamin B ₃Being described in more completely among the WO 98/22085 of chemical compound provides.

Said vitamin B ₃Examples for compounds is known in the art and can buys from multiple channel, for example from Sigma Chemical Company (St.Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, (Irvin, CA) (Milwaukee WI) has bought Inc. with Aldrich Chemical Company.Can use one or more vitamin Bs in the present invention ₃Chemical compound.Preferred vitamin B ₃Chemical compound is nicotinamide and tocopheryl nicotinate.Nicotiamide more preferably.

Retinoid

In preferred embodiments, compositions of the present invention also contains retinoid (retinoids).Vitamin B ₃Chemical compound and retinoid are being regulated skin condition, particularly therapeutic regulation skin aging sign, and the wrinkle of further saying so, tiny wrinkle and pore (pore) aspect have beyond thought effect.Be not bound by theory, it is believed that vitamin B ₃Chemical compound has increased the transformation (latter it is believed that it is the biologically active form of retinoid) of some retinoid to trans-tretinoin, thereby skin condition is produced collaborative regulating action (promptly increasing retinol, the conversion of retinol ester and retinal).In addition, vitamin B ₃Chemical compound has unexpectedly alleviated rubescent, inflammation, and dermatitis and similar symptom, these symptoms may be relevant with the local application retinoid (usually refer to and replacedly be called hereinafter " retinoid dermatitis ").In addition, the vitamin B of combining ₃Chemical compound and retinoid will increase the amount and the activity of thioredoxin, and the latter can increase the collagen expression level by a-protein P-1.Therefore, the present invention can reduce activity level and therefore reduce the probability of retinoid dermatitis, keeps the greater skin conditioning efficacy of significant certainty simultaneously.In addition, can also use higher levels of retinoid,, not have bad retinoid dermatitis to take place simultaneously again to obtain higher greater skin conditioning efficacy.

When being used for herein, " retinoid " is included in the bioactive vitamin A that has vitamin A on the skin or all natural and/or synthetic analog of retinoid chemical compound, and the geometric isomer of these chemical compounds and stereoisomer.This retinoid is retinol preferably, and retinol ester is (as the C of retinol ₂-C ₂₂Arrcostab comprises the hexadecanoic acid retinyl ester, retinyl acetate, Vitamin A propionate), retinal, and/or tretinoin (comprising all trans retinoic acids and/or 13-cis-tretinoin) they more preferably are retinoid rather than tretinoin.These chemical compounds are known in the art and can buy from a plurality of sources, as Sigma Chemical Company (St.Louis, MO) and Boehringer Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN).Preferred retinoid is retinol, hexadecanoic acid retinyl ester, retinyl acetate, Vitamin A propionate, retinal and composition thereof.More preferably retinol and hexadecanoic acid retinyl ester.In the material that this retinoid can be used as a kind of substantially pure is included in, also can be used as the extract that obtains by natural (as plant) source by suitable physics and/or Chemical Decomposition and use.

Said composition preferably contains has an appointment 0.005% to about retinoid of 2%, more preferably about 0.01% to about 2%.The most preferred consumption of retinol is about 0.01% to about 0.15%; The most preferred consumption of retinol ester is about 0.01% to about 2% (for example about 1%).

Aptly, the pH value of the present composition is preferably greater than 5.25 greater than 5, more preferably greater than 5.40, and preferably is lower than 9, more preferably less than 8, also more preferably less than 7.

Compositions of the present invention is the form of humidification cream or emulsion preferably, and it can be administered on the skin with the form of leave product.The present invention illustrates by the following example.

Example I-VIII

Embodiment	I	?II	?III	?IV	?V	?VI
Embodiment	I	?II	?III	?IV	?V	?VI	Composition	％w/w	％w/w	％w/w	％w/w	％w/w	％w/w
Arlatone?2121 ¹	5	?5	?10	?10	?10	?15	Composition	％w/w	％w/w	％w/w	％w/w	％w/w	％w/w
Arlatone?2121 ¹	5	?5	?10	?10	?10	?15	Glycerol	25	?25	?25	?25	?50	?80
Water	In right amount to 100	In right amount to 100	In right amount to 100	In right amount to 100	In right amount to 100	In right amount to 100	Glycerol	25	?25	?25	?25	?50	?80
Water	In right amount to 100	In right amount to 100	In right amount to 100	In right amount to 100	In right amount to 100	In right amount to 100	Vaseline	5	?5	?5	?5	?5	?2

Polydimethylsiloxane	2	?3	?3	?3	?3	?1
Polydimethylsiloxane	2	?3	?3	?3	?3	?1	Antiseptic	0.1	?0.1	?0.1	?0.1	?0.1	?0.1
The Gransil gel ²	0	?0	?0	?1	?0	?0	Antiseptic	0.1	?0.1	?0.1	?0.1	?0.1	?0.1

Said composition prepares according to following manner:

Water is heated to 80 ℃, stirs adding glycerol down.Under mixing, Arlatone 2121 is distributed to this aqueous phase.Oil-phase component is heated to 80 ℃.Stir and add aqueous phase down.Cooling also adds the responsive to temperature composition under 45 ℃

Embodiment	VII	VIII
Embodiment	VII	VIII	Composition	％w/w	％w/w
Arlatone?2121 ¹	5	10	Composition	％w/w	％w/w
Arlatone?2121 ¹	5	10	Glycerol	25	25
Vaseline	5.0	5	Glycerol	25	25
Vaseline	5.0	5	Poly-cottonseed acid sucrose ester	-	1.5
2-Methylpentadecane	-	0.5	Poly-cottonseed acid sucrose ester	-	1.5
2-Methylpentadecane	-	0.5	The PPG-15-stearyl ether	-	-
Polydimethylsiloxane	2.0	3.0	The PPG-15-stearyl ether	-	-
Polydimethylsiloxane	2.0	3.0	The Gransil gel ²	-	1.0
DC?1403 ³	1.0	1.0	The Gransil gel ²	-	1.0
DC?1403 ³	1.0	1.0	Protease F	0.015	0.005
Calcium chloride	0.042	0.083	Protease F	0.015	0.005
Calcium chloride	0.042	0.083	Water, trace substance	In right amount to 100	In right amount to 100

1. by ICI Surfactants, PO Box 90, Wilton Centre, Middlesborough, Cleveland TS6 8JE, England provides.

2. by Grant Industries Inc., Elmwood Park, New Jersey, USA provides.(this gel comprises the cyclopolymethyl siloxane (D5) of 74-83% (w/w), the polysiloxanes 11 of 12-16% (w/w) and 12-15% (w/w) vaseline).

3. the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane and dimethiconol

Compositions among example VII A and the VIII makes according to above-mentioned technology, and last step that wherein adds is that enzyme (Protease F) solution is mixed with batch of material under 30 ℃ or lower temperature.

The present composition not only demonstrates useful dermal sensation, skin is soft and smooth effect, but also has high humidification effect and good rheology and absorption characteristic, and can not produce the height adhesion.

Claims

1. be fit to locally apply to the leave cosmetic composition on the skin, comprise:

2. according to the compositions of claim 1, comprise about 22% to about 70%, preferred about 25% polyhydric alcohol or its mixture to about 60% weight.

3. according to the compositions of claim 1 or 2, wherein polyhydric alcohol is selected from the glycerol of glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol and derivant thereof, hexanetriol, ethoxylation, propenoxylated glycerol and their mixture.

4. according to the compositions of claim 3, wherein polyhydric alcohol is selected from glycerol, butanediol or its mixture.

5. according to each compositions among the claim 1-4, comprise about 3% to about 40%, preferred about 3% emulsifying agent to about 30% weight.

6. according to each compositions among the claim 1-5, wherein emulsifying agent comprises at least a emulsifying agent with high HLB value and at least aly has a mixture that low HLB value and fusing point are at least 45 ℃ emulsifying agent, and the ratio of low HLB value emulsifying agent and high HLB value emulsifying agent is about 10: 1 to about 100: 1.

7. according to the compositions of claim 6, wherein high HLB value emulsifying agent is selected from the C of polyhydric alcohol ₁-C ₃₀Ether; C ₁-C ₃₀The alkoxylated ether of aliphatic alcohol; Single-, two-or three-sucrose fatty acid ester; And their mixture, preferably single-, two-or three-sucrose fatty ester; Low HLB value emulsifying agent is selected from C ₈-C ₂₄Polyhydric alcohol list-fatty acid ester, wherein this polyhydric alcohol is a sorbitan; Saturated C ₁₆-C ₃₀Aliphatic alcohol; Saturated C ₁₆-C ₃₀Aliphatic alcohol of ethoxylation and composition thereof, preferred C ₈-C ₂₄Sorbitan fatty acid esters, more preferably glyceryl monostearate, stearyl alcohol, sorbitan stearate, spermol or their mixture.

8. according to the compositions of claim 7, wherein emulsifying agent is based on the fatty acid ester blends of sorbitan fatty acid esters and sucrose-fatty ester admixture.

9. compositions according to Claim 8, wherein emulsifying agent is the mixture of sorbitan stearate and sucrose Cortex cocois radicis ester.

10. according to each compositions among the claim 1-9, also comprise about 0.0001% to about 5%, preferred about 0.0005% to about 1%, 0.001% one or more enzymes more preferably from about to about 0.1% weight, be selected from protease, lipase, phospholipase, glycosidase, lactoperoxidase, cellulase and their mixture, preferably protease.

11. about 2% the purposes that can in water, form the emulsifying agent of liquid crystal to about 45% weight, be used to reduce the adhesion of the leave cosmetic composition that is fit to locally apply on the skin, described compositions comprises greater than about 20% to polyhydric alcohol or its mixture less than about 80% weight.

12. according to the purposes of claim 11, wherein the leave cosmetic composition has each described feature among the claim 2-10.

13. the cosmetic method of nursing skin comprises each cosmetic composition among the aforementioned claim 1-10 is applied on the skin.