CN1454078A - Cosmetic method - Google Patents

Abstract

According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic method for providing improved skin hydration wherein the method comprises topically applying to the skin a protease enzyme, and simultaneously or sequentially, topically applying to the skin a polyhydric alcohol. There is also provided a cosmetic method for providing improved skin hydration wherein the method comprises topically applying to the skin a polyhydric alcohol, and simultaneously or sequentially, topically applying to the skin a protease enzyme. Furthermore there is provided a cosmetic method for providing improved skin hydration wherein the method comprises topically applying to the skin a cosmetic composition comprising: a) from about 0.0001% to about 1% by weight, of protease enzyme; and b) from about 0.1% to about 20%, by weight, of polyhydric alcohol.

Description

Beauty method

Technical field

The cosmetic composition that the present invention relates to contain protease and polyhydric alcohol is in the purposes of improving aspect skin hydration effect, skin softness and the skin smoothness.

Background of invention

Skin is made up of several cellular layers, and they cover and protect keratin and the collagen fiber albumen that constitutes its structural framework.The outermost layer of these layers is called horny layer, and people have known that they are by the 25nm albumen Shu Zucheng that is surrounded by the 8nm thick-layer.Anion surfactant and organic solvent can penetrate this cutin tunic usually, and destroy its integrity by degreasing (promptly removing lipid by horny layer).This skin surface structural damage meeting causes harsh feeling, and finally can make surfactant or solvent and react the formation stimulation with keratin.

Dry, itch or the skin that peels off may be owing to do not cause keep the suitable gradation of moisture on horny layer.Sometimes be considered to the water that the horny layer plasticiser is used for keeping the moisture content gradient, wherein the water ex vivo of most.If moisture content is low excessively, for example in arctic weather, insufficient moisture remains in the outer layer of stratum corneum and suitably plastifies this tissue, thereby skin begins to peel off and itch.

Can in cosmetic composition, adopt protease to provide nursing thereby people are known to skin.It is believed that this protease mainly works by making this cosmetic composition have decorticating.It is believed that this protease removes ruined on the skin surface (as exsiccant) Skin Cell, thereby reduced the harsh feeling relevant with it.This protease has been removed previous destruction to skin, makes skin produce fresh, younger the look and feel.

Up to now, to concentrate on the enzyme that makes in the compositions stable for the open source literature of describing the cosmetic composition contain protease.These before openly being included in and sneaking in the cosmetic composition incapsulate enzyme (GB1,255,284 and JP10-251122); With the cosmetic composition buffering, make enzyme keep not having active (WO97/47238) before use; And in compositions, use precursor or other active substance so that enzyme stable (EP 0710478 and SU 1690764).Yet, in the prior art, being used for making the stable favourable approach of cosmetic composition protease is by water in the compositions and very high-load polyhydric alcohol is formulated together, make that available water sharply reduces in the compositions, these methods are disclosed among JP 1283213, the JP3294211.Unfortunately, such system is unacceptable aesthetically for cosmetic product.Up to now, the method that overcomes this problem is water to be formulated in the water-in-oil emulsion (United States Patent (USP) the 5th, 932, No. the 5th, 830,449, No. 234 and United States Patent (USP)), perhaps is formulated in the emulsion of triple W/O/Ws (EP 0779071).Another solution is that product is kept in two different compartments in the unitary package, wherein first compartment contains enzyme stable in high content poly-component alcohol, second compartment contains aqueous cosmetics composition, provided and delivered and when mixing, final Aquo-composition is aesthetic acceptable (WO97/27841) when biphase like this.Although prior art provide be suitable for can make stable the improving one's methods in cosmetic composition of enzyme, particularly protease, wherein fully guidance contain the purposes of cosmetic composition in improving skin hydration effect, skin softness and skin smoothness of protease and polyhydric alcohol.

It also is known using polyhydric alcohol as glycerol that the skin moisturizing benefit is provided in cosmetic composition.However, still need to provide skin moisturizing effect (hydration), skin softness and the skin smoothness of further improvement.Unexpectedly find now, by protease is administered on the skin, and simultaneously or on skin, use polyhydric alcohol successively, can see and exceed skin moisturizing effect (measuring) and skin softness and the skin smoothness that only is used in the remarkable improvement that polyhydric alcohol can expect by the skin hydration effect that improves.Bound by theory not it is believed that dead skin surface has been removed in the desquamation effect of protease, and the skin layer of the health under this layer is exposed, and latter Geng Yi is by the polyhydric alcohol hydration.

Summary of the invention

First aspect present invention provides the beauty method that is used to improve the skin hydration effect, and wherein this method comprises local application protease on skin, and local application polyhydric alcohol on skin simultaneously or successively.

Second aspect present invention provides the beauty method that is used to improve the skin hydration effect, and wherein this method comprises local application polyhydric alcohol on skin, and local application protease on skin simultaneously or successively.

Third aspect present invention provides the beauty method that is used to improve the skin hydration effect, and wherein this method comprises local application cosmetic composition on skin, and said composition contains (a) about 0.0001% protease to about 1% weight; (b) about 0.1% polyhydric alcohol to about 20% weight.

Fourth aspect present invention provides the beauty method that is used to improve the skin hydration effect, wherein this method comprises that local application contains the 0.0001% first kind of cosmetic composition to about 1% weight protease of having an appointment on skin, and simultaneously or on skin, use second kind successively and contain 0.1% cosmetic composition to about 20% weight polyhydric alcohol of having an appointment.

The inventive method provides skin hydration effect, skin softness and the skin smoothness benefits of remarkable improvement.

Detailed Description Of The Invention

Unless otherwise, all percentage ratios used herein and ratio are all with total restatement of compositions, and all measurements are all carried out at 25 ℃.Unless otherwise, the percentage ratio of all the components that relates to herein, ratio and content is all based on the actual content of composition, do not comprise solvent, filler or other in the commercially available prod can with the bonded material of these compositions.Chain length and ethyoxyl degree also are to be as the criterion with the weight average level.

Except as otherwise noted, all publications of quoting of this paper all are incorporated herein by reference in full.

When being used for herein, term " enzyme " is meant wild-type enzyme or its variant, perhaps by the chemical modification with the polymer moieties conjugation.

Term used herein " protease " is meant that its substrate is proteic any enzyme.

When being used for herein, term " wild type " is meant by not becoming the enzyme that the host produces.

When being used for herein, term " variant " is meant a kind of enzyme with aminoacid sequence, and this aminoacid sequence is different from the aminoacid sequence of wild-type enzyme owing to the host genetic variation that produces this enzyme.

Term used herein " enzymatic activity " is meant that 20 μ l enzymatic solution (50ppm) are carrying out 30 minutes reactive activity with the suitable protein substrate panel surface of 1 centimetre of diameter in room temperature.By the pH of regulatory enzyme buffer solution, can compare the influence of pH to enzymatic activity.For the used enzyme of the present invention, suitable activity is defined as and finishes greater than 20% at 30 minutes internal reactions, is preferably greater than 50%, more preferably greater than 75%.By using this measuring method, determine that pH is unsuitable for the use of this enzyme less than 5.5 enzyme buffer liquid.

Term used herein " skin hydration " is meant the moisture of improving skin, the moisture of skin can for example be used mensuration such as cutin meter by technological means, perhaps measured by expert's perusal, for example Fitzpatrick xerosis cutis level evaluation is perhaps assessed by consumer oneself.

" the active a of water of hydrated matrix _w" be under the uniform temp, the water vapor pressure of product " ^PH ₂The O product " with the vapour pressure of pure water " ^PH ₂The O pure water " ratio.It can also be expressed as hydrone quantity " ^NH ₂O " with the ratio of total molecular amounts.

" ^NH ₂O+ ^N _Solute" ratio, the latter with the molecule of dissolved substance " ^N _Solute" take into account.

It is represented with following equation:

Can adopt the whole bag of tricks to measure the activity of water.Modal is the manometry method, directly measures steam pressure by this method.

Be described in more detail below the composition of these compositionss.

Beauty method

The inventive method comprises protease and polyhydric alcohol is administered on the skin together.Can simultaneously or on skin, use protease and polyhydric alcohol successively.

Therefore, one aspect of the present invention provides the beauty method that is used to improve the skin hydration effect, and wherein this method comprises local application protease on skin, and local application polyhydric alcohol on skin simultaneously or successively.

The present invention provides the beauty method that is used to improve the skin hydration effect on the other hand, and wherein this method comprises local application polyhydric alcohol on skin, and local application protease on skin simultaneously or successively.

Can also on skin, send protease and polyhydric alcohol simultaneously by the unification cosmetic compositions, this means basically simultaneously.

Can also with two kinds independently cosmetic composition on skin, send protease and polyhydric alcohol successively.Mean that successively two kinds of compositionss successively send with any order, wherein send in after first kind of compositions sent 1 hour of second kind of compositions.Preferably, earlier enzymatic compositions is administered on the skin.In addition preferably, before the buffer solution evaporation of enzymatic compositions, apply glycol composition.

Therefore, the present invention provides the beauty method that improves the skin hydration effect on the other hand, this method comprises local application cosmetic composition on skin, said composition contain have an appointment 0.0001% to about 1%, preferred about 0.001% to about 0.5%, more preferably from about 0.005% to the protease of about 0.1% weight and about 0.1% to about 20%, preferred about 0.5% to about 18%, more preferably from about 2% to about 15% even more preferably from about 5% polyhydric alcohol to about 12% weight.

Perhaps, can with two kinds independently cosmetic composition on skin, send polyhydric alcohol and protease.

Therefore, the present invention provides the beauty method that is used to improve the skin hydration effect on the other hand, this method comprises that on skin local application contains first kind of cosmetic composition of protease, and simultaneously or successively on skin local application contain second kind of cosmetic composition of polyhydric alcohol.

The present composition is suitable for the part and is applied on skin or the hair.Especially, said composition can be emulsion, distillate medicinal water, hair jelly or its analog form.Preferred situation is that this cosmetic composition can be that the emulsion of one or more oil phases in a kind of water continuous phase forms.

Protease

A kind of necessary component that is used for the inventive method is a protease.

Protease is counted E.C.3.4 (carboxylic ester hydrolases) classification according to the Recommendations (1992) of International Union of Biochemistry andMolecular Biology (IUBMB) with enzyme classification.Useful proteases also is described in the following PCT publication: WO95/30010, nineteen ninety-five JIUYUE 9 days open, Procter﹠amp; Gamble Company; WO95/30011, nineteen ninety-five JIUYUE 9 days open, Procter; Gamble Company; WO95/29979, nineteen ninety-five JIUYUE 9 days open, Procter; Gamble Company.Being used for preferred protease of the present invention is subtilisin, chymase and elastoser albuminoid enzyme.

It is particularly preferred that to be used for of the present invention be subtilisin albuminoid enzyme.Subtilisin is by Alkaliphilic bacillus, bacillus amyloliquefaciens, starch saccharification bacillus cereus, Bacillus licheniformis, bacillus lentus and the natural generation of bacillus subtilis bacteria microorganism.

Particularly preferred bacillus subtilis fermentoid is bacterial serine protease and variant thereof, and it is obtained by bacillus amyloliquefaciens, Bacillus licheniformis and/or bacillus subtilis, comprises Novo Industries A/S Alcalase ^, Esperase ^, Savinase ^(Copenhagen, Denmark), Gist-brocades ' Maxatase ^, Maxacal ^With Maxapem 15 ^(through the Maxacal of protein engineeringization ^) (Delft, Netherlands), and subtilisin BPN and BPN ', they can be bought from the market.

Particularly preferred protease and the variant thereof that obtains by bacillus amyloliquefaciens.A kind of known enzyme is BPN '.The wild type BPN ' that derives from bacillus amyloliquefaciens has following aminoacid sequence feature:

1?????????????????????10???????????????????????20

AlaGlnSer?ValProTyr?GlyValSer?GlnIleLys?AlaProAla??Leu??His

SerGlnGly

30???????????????????????40

TyrThrGly?SerAsnVal?LysValAla?ValIleAsp?SerGlyIle??Asp??Ser

SerHisPro

50???????????????????????60

AspLeuLys?ValAlaGly?GlyAlaSer?MetValPro?SerGluThr??Asn??Pro

PheGlnAsp

70???????????????????????80AsnAsnSer?HisGlyThr?HisValAla?GlyThrVal?AlaAlaLeu??Asn??AsnSerIleGly

90??????????????????????100ValLeuGly?ValAlaPro?SerAlaSer?LeuTyrAla?ValLysVal??Leu??GlyAlaAspGly

110??????????????????????120SerGlyGln?TyrSerTrp?IleIleAsn?GlyIleGlu?TrpAlaIle??Ala??AsnAsnMetAsp

130??????????????????????140ValIleAsn?MetSerLeu?GlyGlyPro?SerGlySer?AlaAlaLeu??Lys??AlaAlaValAsp

150??????????????????????160LysAlaVal?AlaSerGly?ValValVal?ValAlaAla?AlaGlyAsn??Glu??GlyThrSerGly

170??????????????????????180SerSerSer?ThrValGly?TyrProGly?LysTyrPro?SerValIle??Ala??ValGlyAlaVal

190??????????????????????200AspSerSer?AsnGlnArg?AlaSerPhe?SerSerVal?GlyProGlu??Leu??AspValMetAla

210??????????????????????220ProGlyVal?SerIleGln?SerThrLeu?ProGlyAsn?LysTyrGly??Ala??TyrAsnGlyThr

230??????????????????????240SerMetAla?SerProHis?ValAlaGly?AlaAlaAla?LeuIleLeu??Ser??LysHisProAsn

250??????????????????????260TrpThrAsn?ThrGlnVal?ArgSerSer?LeuGluAsn?ThrThrThr??Lys??Leu

GlyAspSer

270?????????275

PheTyrTyr?GlyLysLys?GlyLeuIle?AsnAsnVal?GlnAlaAla??Ala??Gln

The variant of BPN ' is called " protease A " hereinafter and is disclosed in United States Patent (USP) the 5th, 030, and No. 378 (Venegas proposed on July 9th, 1991) is characterized in that having the BPN ' aminoacid sequence of following sudden change:

A.) Gly that is positioned at Gly166 is by Asn, Ser, and Lys, Arg, His, Gln, Ala or Glu replace; The Gly that is positioned at Gly169 is replaced by Ser; The Met that is positioned at Met222 is by Gln, Phe, and Cys, His, Asn, Glu, Ala or Thr replace; Perhaps

B.) Gly that is positioned at Gly166 is replaced by Lys, and the Met that is positioned at Met222 is replaced by Cys; Perhaps

C.) Gly that is positioned at Gly160 is replaced by Ala, and the Met that is positioned at Met222 is replaced by Ala.

Other the BPN ' variant that hereinafter is called " protease B " is disclosed in GenencorInternational, Inc. (San Francisco, California) European patent EP-B-251,446 (December in 1994 mandates on the 28th, on January 7th, 1988 is open) in, the amino acid whose feature of wild type BPN ' is that one or more undergoing mutation: Tyr21 is arranged in following aminoacid, Thr22, Ser24, Asp36, Ala45, Ala48, Ser49, Met50, His67, Ser87, Lys94, Val95, Gly97, Ser101, Gly102, Gly103, Ile107, Gly110, Met124, Gly127, Gly128, Pro129, Leu135, Lys170, Tyr171, Pro172, Asp197, Met199, Ser204, Lys213, Tyr214, Gly215 and Ser221; The two or more aminoacid of perhaps listing above with among Asp32, Ser33, Tyr104, Ala152, Asn155, Glu156, Gly166, Gly169, Phe189, Tyr217 and the Met222 are undergone mutation, and wherein both sudden changes all can not occur on Asp32, Ser33, Tyr104, Ala152, Asn155, Glu156, Gly166, Gly169, Phe189, Tyr217 and the Met222 aminoacid.

Another kind of preferred BPN ' misfolded proteins enzyme is called " protease D " hereinafter and is disclosed among the WO95/10615 April 20 nineteen ninety-five by Genencor International, it is characterized in that its wild type BPN ' aminoacid, and it has sudden change at the Asn76 place, and the place has sudden change at one or more following aminoacid: Asp99, Ser101, Gln103, Tyr104, Ser105, Ile107, Asn109, Asn123, Leu126, Gly127, Gly128, Leu135, Glu156, Gly166, Glu195, Asp197, Ser204, Gln206, Pro210, Ala216, Tyr217, Asn218, Met222, Ser260, Lys265 and/or Ala274.

Another kind of preferred BPN ' misfolded proteins enzyme is called " Protease F " hereinafter and is disclosed in No. the 4th, 760,025, the United States Patent (USP) submitted on July 26th, 1988 by people such as Estell, it is characterized in that its wild type BPN ' aminoacid, on one or how following amino acid position, have sudden change: Asp32, Ser33, His64, Tyr104, Asn155, Glu156, Gly166, Gly169, Phe189, Tyr217 and Met222.

Preferred proteolytic enzymes is selected from Alcalase ^, BPN ', protease A, protease B, protease D and Protease F, and composition thereof.Wherein Protease F is most preferred.

Be used for compositions of the present invention and contain 0.0001% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.001% to about 0.5% even more preferably from about 0.005% the protease of having an appointment to about 0.1% weight.

Polyhydric alcohol

Be applicable to that compositions of the present invention contains at least a polyhydric alcohol or its mixture, its concentration be about 0.1% to about 20%, preferred about 0.5% to about 18%, more preferably from about 2% to about 15% even more preferably from about 5% to about 12% weight.

For purposes of the present invention, polyhydric alcohol can be any organic compound or its alkoxy derivative that contains two or more alcohol functional group.In addition preferably, if said composition has the O/w emulsion form, then in continuous phase, there is polyhydric alcohol.

Be applicable to that suitable polyhydric alcohol of the present invention comprises poly alkylene glycol, more preferably alkylidene polyol and derivant thereof, comprise propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol and derivant thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, erithritol, two or three butanediols (threitol), tetramethylolmethane, xylitol, sorbitol, mannitol, hexanediol, butanediol (for example 1, the 3-butanediol), hexanetriol (for example 1,2, the 6-hexanetriol), trimethylolpropane, dimethyltrimethylene glycol, glycerol, ethoxylated glycerol, the third-1, the 3-glycol, propoxylated glycerol, and composition thereof.The alkoxy derivative of any above-mentioned polyhydric alcohol also is applicable to the present invention.

Preferred polyhydric alcohols of the present invention is selected from glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol, hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol and propoxylated glycerol, and composition thereof.It is most preferred that to be used for polyhydric alcohol of the present invention be glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol, and composition thereof.

Optional member

Be used for compositions of the present invention and can contain various optional members.

Carrier

Compositions of the present invention comprises acceptable carrier on the Dermatology of safe and effective amount, it is suitable for locally applying on skin or the hair, base stock and other optional raw material have wherein been added, so that base stock and optional ingredients are transported on skin or the hair with suitable concn.Therefore carrier can be as diluent, dispersant or the solvent etc. of necessary component, with guarantee these necessary components can be with suitable concentration, use and be distributed on the target of selection evenly.

This carrier can be solid, semisolid or liquid.Highly preferred carrier is liquid or semisolid, as emulsion, distillate medicinal water and gel.Preferred situation is that this carrier is the form of distillate medicinal water, emulsion or gel, is more preferably the material with enough denseness or yield point, to prevent granule generation sedimentation.This carrier itself can be inert or himself have advantage on the Dermatology.This carrier also should be physics and chemically compatible with described basis, and can not have a negative impact to stability, effect or other result of use relevant with compositions of the present invention.

The kind that is used for the present invention's carrier depends on the product form that said composition is required.Be applicable to that topical composition of the present invention can make multiple product form, various ways as known in the art.These forms include but not limited to distillate medicinal water, cream, gel, stick, ointment, paste and mousse.These product forms can comprise several carriers, include but not limited to solution, emulsion and gel.

Preferred carrier contains acceptable hydrophilic diluent on the Dermatology.The hydrophilic diluent that is suitable for comprises water, organic hydrophilic diluent, as C ₁-C ₄Monohydric alcohol and low-molecular-weight dihydroxylic alcohols and polyhydric alcohol, comprise propylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol (as having molecular weight 200-600), polypropylene glycol (as having molecular weight 425-2025), glycerol, butanediol, 1,2,4-butantriol, sorbitol ester, 1,2, the ether of 6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, sorbitol ester, ethoxylation, propenoxylated ether, and composition thereof.This diluent is liquid preferably.Water is particularly preferred diluent.Said composition preferably includes at least 20% hydrophilic diluent.

Preferred carrier comprises a kind of aqueous favoring that comprises, particularly water, and hydrophobic phase, as the emulsion of lipoid, oil or oily material.As be familiar with the person in the art known, this aqueous favoring can be dispersed in thin aqueous phase, vice versa, thereby form hydrophilic or hydrophobic decentralized photo and continuous phase respectively, this depends on constituent.In emulsion technology was learned, term " decentralized photo " was the well-known terms of those skilled in the art, and it is meant that this phase exists as being suspended in the continuous phase and by granule or droplet that continuous phase is surrounded.Decentralized photo also is called inner phase or discontinuous phase.This emulsion can be or comprise (as with three-phase or other multi-phase emulsion) a kind of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, as the water-in-silicone emulsion.O/w emulsion generally includes about 1% to 60% (preferably being about 1% to 30%) dispersing hydrophobic phase and about 1% to 99% (preferably being about 40% to 90%) continuous hydrophilic; Water-in-oil emulsion generally includes the dispersive aqueous favoring of about 1% to 98% (preferred about 40% to 90%) with continuous hydrophobic mutually with about 1% to 50% (preferably being about 1% to 30%).Preferred compositions of the present invention is an O/w emulsion.

Skin care actives

The composition of the preferred present composition comprises about 0.1% to about 20%, preferred about 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2% skin care actives to about 8% weight.

Be used for skin care actives of the present invention and be selected from vitamin B ₃Component, pantothenylol, vitamin E, alpha-tocopherol acetate, retinol, Vitamin A propionate, retinyl palmitate, tretinoin, vitamin C, theobromine, 'alpha '-hydroxy acids, farnesol, phytantriol, salicylic acid, and composition thereof.

From the angle of skin hydration effect that improvement is provided, skin care actives preferred for the present invention is a vitamin B ₃Component.

Vitamin B ₃ Component

Compositions of the present invention preferably includes about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably about 1% to about 8%, most preferably is about 1.5% to about 6% vitamin B ₃Chemical compound.

" vitamin B used herein ₃Chemical compound " be meant chemical compound with following formula:

R is-CONH in the formula ₂(as nicotiamide) ,-COOH (as nicotinic acid) or-CH ₂OH (as nicotinyl alcohol); And derivant; The salt of above-mentioned any composition.Aforementioned vitamin B ₃The example of the derivant of chemical compound comprises nicotinate, comprises nicotinyl alcohol esters, nicotinic acid N-oxide and the nicotinoyl amine n-oxide of non-vasodilation nicotinate/cigarette base aminoacid, carboxylic acid.

The ester of suitable nicotinic acid comprises C ₁-C ₂₂, preferred C ₁-C ₁₆, more preferably C ₁-C ₆The nicotinate of alcohol.These alcohol are suitable to be straight or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (comprising aromatics), replace or unsubstituted.These esters preferably are non-vasodilation.In this article, " non-vasodilation " is meant that this ester is being administered on the skin and generally can producing tangible rubescent reaction (tangible rubescent reaction can not appear in most of people, though the vasodilation that these chemical compounds may cause naked eyes to see).The non-vasodilation ester of nicotinic acid comprises tocopherol cigarette ester and hexanicotinate; Tocopherol cigarette ester is preferred.Relevant vitamin B ₃Chemical compound description more completely can obtain from WO98/22085.

Said vitamin B ₃The example of chemical compound is known in the art, and can buy from multiple channel, for example from Sigma Chemical Company (St.Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, (Irvin, CA) (Milwaukee WI) buys Inc. with Aldrich Chemical Company.Can use one or more vitamin Bs in the present invention ₃Chemical compound.Preferred vitamin B ₃Chemical compound is nicotiamide and tocopherol cigarette ester.Nicotiamide preferably.

Retinoid

Another kind of suitable skin care actives is a retinoid." retinoid " used herein comprises for skin having bioactive all natural and/or synthetic vitamin A analog of vitamin A or retinol sample chemical compound, and the geometric isomer of these chemical compounds and stereoisomer.

This retinoid is retinol preferably, and the vitamin A alcohol ester is (as the C of retinol ₂-C ₂₂Arrcostab comprises the hexadecylic acid retinyl ester, retinyl acetate, Vitamin A propionate), retinal, and/or tretinoin (comprise and owning-trans retinoic acid and/or 13-cis-tretinoin) they more preferably are the retinoids of non-tretinoin.These chemical compounds are known in this area, and can be from a plurality of local purchases, as Sigma Chemical Company (St.Louis, MO) and Boehringer Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN).Preferred retinoid is retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, Vitamin A propionate, retinal, tretinoin and combination thereof.More preferably retinol, propanoic acid retinyl ester, tretinoin and Palmic acid retinyl ester.Retinoid can be used as pure basically material and uses, perhaps as using from the extract that natural (for example plant) source obtains by suitable physics and/or Chemical Decomposition means.

Said composition preferably contains has an appointment 0.005% to 2%, more preferably about 0.01% to 2% retinoid.Retinol most preferably is to use with about amount of 0.01% to 0.15%; The vitamin A alcohol ester most preferably is to use with the amount of about 0.01% to 2% (according to appointment 1%).

It is highly preferred that very much and be applicable to that compositions of the present invention contains by about 1% vitamin B to about 5% weight ₃The compound vitamin that the chemical compound or derivatives thereof constitutes; With by about 0.1% compound vitamin that constitutes to the pantothenylol or derivatives thereof of about 1% weight to the retinol mixture or derivatives thereof of about 1% weight and about 0.1%.

Additional humectant

Compositions of the present invention can comprise other wetting agent, and they are preferably with about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably with about 0.1% to about 15%, particularly exists with about 0.5% to about 10% amount.

Preferred humectants includes but not limited to be selected from carbamide, D or DL pantothenylol, calcium pantothenate, Lac regis apis, tie up its life B5, tie up its life B5 derivant, pantothenylol benzyl ethyl ether, VITAMIN B15, many suffering of pyrrole, pantoyl base lactose vitamin B complex, own-1; 2, the chemical compound of 6-triol, guanidine or derivatives thereof.Highly preferred wetting agent is carbamide, pantothenylol, and composition thereof.The chemical compound of listing above can add separately, also can make up adding.

Be applicable to that other wetting agent of the present invention is 2-Pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid sodium (NaPCA), guanidine; Glycolic and ethylene glycol salt (as ammonium and tetravalence alkylammonium); Lactic acid and lactate (as ammonium and tetravalence alkylammonium); Any type of Aloe (as, Aloe glue); Hyaluronic acid and derivant thereof (as salt derivative, as hyaluronate sodium); The lactamide monoethanolamine; The acetamide monoethanolamine; Urea; Pantothenylol and derivant thereof; And composition thereof.

Can add with the form of the mixture of a kind of special crosslinked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer to the other wetting agent of small part (being up to compositions about by weight 5%), its amount is preferably 0.1% to 10%, it can join aqueous phase, also can join in the decentralized photo.It is valuable especially that this copolymer helps to provide effective wetting effect for reduction gloss simultaneously with the control oils and fats, and this composition is disclosed among the WO96/03964 in detail, and the document is incorporated herein as a reference.

The chemical compound of listing above can add separately, also can make up adding.Preferred other wetting agent is selected from urea, pantothenylol, and composition thereof.

Emollient

O/w emulsion of the present invention contains usually has an appointment 1% to about 20%, preferred about 1.5% to about 15%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 8%, particularly about 0.5% to the acceptable emollient of about 5% skin.

Emollient makes skin lubrication, increases the slickness and the flexibility of skin, and prevent or alleviate xerosis cutis, and/or protection skin.Emollient normally with immiscible oily of water or waxy substance, and have high-molecular weight emollient and can give topical composition with viscosity.Wide variety of suitable emollients is known, and can be used for the present invention." cosmetics, the Science and Technology " of Sagarin, 2nd Edition, Vol.1 has comprised many examples that are suitable for use as the material of emollient among the pp.32-43 (1972).All emollient of discussing in International Application No. WO 00/24372 all are considered to be applicable to the present invention, certainly, will describe preferred examples in more detail below:

I) have about 7 straight chain and branched-chain hydrocarbons, for example dodecane, squalane, cholesterol, Parleam, 2-Methylpentadecane, Isoeicosane, iso-octyl 60 hydrocarbon, isohesyl 50 alkyl, 100 hydrocarbon and C to about 40 carbon atoms ₇-C ₄₀Isoparaffin, they are C ₇-C ₄₀Branched-chain hydrocarbons.Be applicable to that branched-chain hydrocarbons of the present invention is selected from second 50 alkyl 800 hydrocarbon, vaseline, and composition thereof.Being applicable to of the present invention is branched aliphatic hydrocarbons, with trade name Permethyl ^Sell, and can be available from Presperse Inc., P.O.Box735, SouthPlainfield, N.J.07080, U.S.A..

Ii) C ₁-C ₃₀Carboxylic acid, C12-15 alkylbenzoic acid and C ₂-C ₃₀The C of dicarboxylic acids ₁-C ₃₀Alcohol ester, the different nonyl ester of for example different n-nonanoic acid, neopentanoic acid iso stearyl ester, sad isodecyl ester, different isodecyl pelargonate, different n-nonanoic acid ester in three last of the ten Heavenly stems, sad tetradecane ester, octyl pelargonate, different octyl pelargonate, myristic acid tetradecane ester, neopentanoic acid tetradecane ester, sad tetradecane ester, isopropyl myristate, propanoic acid tetradecane ester, isopropyl stearate, isostearic acid isopropyl ester, isostearic acid methyl ester, behenic acid docosane ester, di-2-ethylhexyl maleate, diisopropyl adipate and dilinoleic acid diisopropyl ester, and composition thereof.

Iii) Tang C ₁-C ₃₀Single-and many-ester and related substances.These esters are derived with one or more carboxylic moiety by sugar or polyhydric alcohol.According to the acid of forming and sugared, these esters at room temperature can be the liquid or solid form.The example comprises: glucose four oleates, oleic galactose four esters, sorbitol four oleates, sucrose four oleates, sucrose five oleates, sucrose six oleates, sucrose seven oleates, sucrose eight oleates, sorbitol six esters (wherein carboxylate moiety is the palm acid ester and the Arachidate of 1: 2 mol ratio) and sucrose octaester (wherein the esterification of carboxylic acid partly is that mol ratio is 1: 3: 4 laurate, linoleate and a docosane acid esters).Other material comprises the Oleum Gossypii semen or the soya fatty acid ester of sucrose.Other example of these materials is disclosed among the WO96/16636, and the document is incorporated herein as a reference.Particularly preferred material is known many Oleum Gossypii semen of sucrose acid esters by name among the INCI.

Iv) vegetable oil and hydrogenated vegetable oil.The example of vegetable oil and hydrogenated vegetable oil comprises safflower oil, Oleum Cocois, Oleum Gossypii semen, pilchardine, palm-kernel oil, Petiolus Trachycarpi oil, Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, Semen Lini oil, Testa oryzae oil, Oleum Pini, Oleum sesami, sunflower seed oil, part and complete hydrogenant external source oil, and composition thereof.

V) soluble or colloidal state-soluble humidizer.The example comprises alduronic acid and starch-grafted sodium polyacrylate, for example Sanwet ^IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 derive from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, and VA, USA, and be described in USA-A-4 is in 076,663.

Be applicable to that preferably softening agent of the present invention is 2-Methylpentadecane, different 80 alkane, vaseline, isononyl isononanoate, sad isodecyl ester, different isodecyl pelargonate, different n-nonanoic acid ester in three last of the ten Heavenly stems, sad tetradecane ester, different octyl pelargonate, myristic acid tetradecane ester, isostearic acid methyl ester, isostearic acid isopropyl ester, benzoic acid C12-15 Arrcostab, and composition thereof.Particularly preferred to be used for of the present invention be 2-Methylpentadecane, isononyl isononanoate, isostearic acid methyl ester, isostearic acid isopropyl ester, vaseline or its mixture.Because the bad dermal sensation characteristic of Semen Ricini oil, so it is not to be preferred for emollient of the present invention.

Emulsifier/surfactant

Compositions of the present invention preferably contains emulsifying agent and/or surfactant, and they help the decentralized photo dispersion usually and are suspended in continuous aqueous phase.As fruit product is to be used for the skin clean purpose, and then surfactant also is suitable for.For convenience's sake, emulsifying agent will be included under the term " surfactant " hereinafter, " surfactant " will be used to the appellation surfactant like this, and no matter it is as emulsifying agent, still be used for the purpose of other surfactant, for example skin clean.In compositions, can use known or conventional surfactant, condition be the material that is selected from be with compositions in essential component chemical and physical compatibility, and can provide required characteristic.Suitable surfactant comprises the deutero-material of non--polysiloxanes, and composition thereof.The all surface activating agent of being discussed in International Application No. WO 00/24372 all is considered to be applicable to the present invention.

The present composition preferably contains has an appointment 0.05% to about 15% surfactant or surfactant mixtures.The pH of compositions and other component of existence are depended in the selection of accurate surface activating agent or surfactant mixture.

Preferred surfactants is non-ionic.In non-ionic surface active agent, be applicable to that of the present invention is that those can be broadly defined as long-chain alcohol, for example C _8-30The condensation product of alcohol and sugar or starch polymer, be glucosides.Other ionic surfactant pack that is suitable for is drawn together the condensation product (being the alkylene oxide ester of fatty acid) of alkylene oxide and fatty acid.These materials have general formula R CO (X) _nOH, R is C in the formula _10-30Alkyl, X are-OCH ₂CH ₂-(promptly derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or-OCH ₂CHCH ₃-(promptly derived from propylene glycol or oxide), and n is about 6 to about 200 integer.Other non-ionic surface active agent is the condensation product (being the alkylene oxide diester of fatty acid) of alkylene oxide and 2 moles of fatty acids.These materials have general formula R CO (X) _nOOCR, R is C in the formula _10-30Alkyl, X are-OCH ₂CH ₂-(promptly derived from ethylene glycol or oxide) or-OCH ₂CHCH ₃-(promptly derived from propylene glycol or oxide), and n is about 6 to about 100 integer.Be applicable to the mixture of the emulsifying agent of the present invention most preferred fatty acid ester blends that is based on sorbitan fatty acid esters and sucrose-fatty ester admixture, particularly sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocos nucifera oil acid esters.This with trade name Arlatone 2121 available from ICI.Further the example that is fit to comprises cetearyl alcohol alcohol mixture, cetearyl glucosides mixture, for example with trade name Montanov 68 available from Seppic and with trade name Emulgade PL68/50 available from those of Henkel.

Be applicable to that hydrophilic surfactant of the present invention can comprise (substitute non-ionic surface active agent) or comprise various cationes, anion, amphion and amphoteric surfactant extraly, for example known in the art those.Referring to, " detergent and the emulsifying agent " of McCutcheon for example, North American Edition (1986), AlluredPublishing Corporation publishes; Authorize No. the 5th, 011,681, the United States Patent (USP) of Ciotti etc., announced on April 30th, 1991; Authorize No. the 4th, 421,769, the United States Patent (USP) of Dixon etc., nineteen eighty-three December announced in 20th; With No. the 3rd, 755,560, the United States Patent (USP) of authorizing Dickert etc., announced on August 28th, 1973.Various anion surfactants also are applicable to the present invention.Referring to, for example authorize No. the 3rd, 929,678, the United States Patent (USP) of Laughlin etc., December was announced on the 30th in 1975.

Various anion surfactants also are applicable to the present invention.Referring to, for example authorize No. the 3rd, 929,678, the United States Patent (USP) of Laughlin etc., December was announced on the 30th in 1975.The example of anion surfactant comprises hydroxyethylsulfonic acid. Arrcostab (C for example ₁₂-C ₃₀), alkyl and alkyl ether sulphate and salt thereof, alkyl and alkyl ether phosphate and salt thereof, alkyl methyl taurine salt (C for example ₁₂-C ₃₀) and fatty acid soaps (for example alkali metal salt, for example sodium or potassium salt).

Both sexes and zwitterionic surfactant also can be used for the present invention.Can be used for the both sexes of the present composition and the example of zwitterionic surfactant is those materials that broadly are described as the aliphatic series second month in a season and tertiary amines derived thing, wherein aliphatic group can be a straight or branched, and one of them aliphatic substituent group contains and has an appointment 8 to about 22 carbon atoms (preferred C ₈-C ₁₈), and one contain the anionic water solubilizing group, for example carboxyl, sulfonate radical, sulfate radical, phosphate radical or phosphonate radical.The example is alkyl imino acetate and iminodiacetic alkanoate and amino-alkane hydrochlorate, imidazoline salt and ammonium derivative.Both sexes that other is suitable and zwitterionic surfactant are selected from by betaine, sulfo group betaine, hydroxyl sulfo group betaine and side chain and not ramose alkanoyl sarcosinate, and composition thereof.

Preferred emulsions of the present invention comprises emulsifying agent or the surfactant that contains polysiloxanes.There is multiple silicone emulsifiers to can be used for the present invention.These silicone emulsifiers generally are as silicone surfactant organically-modified organopolysiloxane known to those skilled in the art.The silicone emulsifiers that is suitable for comprises dimethicone copolyol.These materials are to carry out modification to introduce the polydimethylsiloxane of following chain: polyether lateral chain for example polyethylene oxide chain, polypropylene oxide chain, these chains mixture and contain the polyether chain of the part of derived from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide.Other example comprises alkyl-modified simethicone copolyol, promptly contains C ₂-C ₃₀Hang down and encircle the chemical compound of side chain.Other spendable dimethicone copolyol comprise have various cation, the unit of anion, both sexes and amphion side chain.

Polymeric viscosifier

Compositions of the present invention comprises at least a polymeric viscosifier.

Be applicable to that preferred its number-average molecular weight of polymeric viscosifier of the present invention greater than 20,000, more preferably is 50,000, particularly preferred greater than 100,000.

Usually, compositions of the present invention can comprise account for composition weight about 0.01% to about 10%, preferred about 0.1% to about 8%, most preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% polymeric viscosifier or its mixture.

Be applicable to that preferably polymeric viscosifier of the present invention comprises non-ionic thickening agent and anionic thickener or its mixture.The non-ionic thickening agent that is suitable for comprises polyacrylamide polymers, crosslinked poly-(N-vinyl pyrrolidone), polysaccharide, natural or bakelite, polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyvinyl alcohol.The anionic thickener that is suitable for comprises acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer, carboxy vinyl polymer and crosslinked alkyl vinyl ether and copolymer-maleic anhydride.Particularly preferredly be applicable to that thickening agent of the present invention is the nonionic polyacrylamide polymers, as polyacrylamide and isoparaffin, and laureth-7, it is bought by Seppic Corporation with trade name Sepigel 305, and acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer and carboxy vinyl polymer, it is sold with registered trade mark Carbopol resin by B.F.Goodrich Company, or its mixture.Suitable Carbopol resins can be through hydrophobically modified and other appropriate resin be disclosed among the WO98/22085 perhaps their mixture.

Silicone oil

Compositions of the present invention preferably includes at least a siloxanes oil phase.Silicone oil accounts for 0.1% to 20% of compositions mutually usually, and is preferred about 0.5% to 10%, and more preferably from about 0.5% to 5%.This siloxanes oil phase preferably includes one or more silicone component.

Silicone component can be a liquid, comprises straight chain, side chain and annular siloxane.Be applicable to that silicone liquid of the present invention comprises siloxanes, the siloxanes, the polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl perfume base siloxanes that comprise siloxanes, amino and the modification of quaternary ammonium of poly-alkylsiloxane liquid, poly-aryl siloxanes liquid, ring-type and linear poly-alkylsiloxane, poly-alkoxylation, or polyether siloxane copolymer, and composition thereof.This silicone liquid can be volatile, also can be nonvolatile.Silicone liquid has the weight average molecular weight less than about 200,000 usually.Suitable silicone liquid has about 100,000 or littler molecular weight, and is preferred about 50,000 or littler, and most preferably from about 10,000 or littler.It is about 100 to about silicone liquid of 50,000, preferred about 200 to about 40,000 that preferred silicone liquid is selected from weight average molecular weight.Usually, silicone liquid is about 0.65 to about 600 25 ℃ viscosity, 000mm ².s ^-1, preferred about 0.65 to about 10,000mm ².s ^-1The glass capillary tube viscometer that viscosity is listed in can the test method CTM0004 (on July 29th, 1970) with Dow Corning company is measured.Can be used for suitable polydimethylsiloxane of the present invention and comprise that those are for example with SF and Viscasil ^Series is available from General Electric Co. Limited and the Dow Corning 200 series product available from Dow Corning.What be suitable for is nonvolatile polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl perfume base siloxanes in addition basically, is about 0.65 to 30 25 ℃ of following viscosity for example, 000mm ².s ^-1PSI.These siloxanes can be available from for example General ElectricCompany, SF 1075 aminomethyl phenyl fluids, and perhaps available from Dow Corning, 556 cosmetics-stage fluids.Be applicable to that Cyclomethicone of the present invention is to have about 3 to 7 (CH of importing ₃) ₂Those compositions of the circulus of SiO part.

In preferred embodiments, this silicone liquid is selected from dimethicone, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, phenyl first siloxanes, and composition thereof.

Siloxanes natural gum also is applicable to the present invention.Term used herein " polysiloxanes natural gum " is meant that weight average molecular weight surpasses about high molecular polysiloxanes of 200,000, preferred about 200,000 to about 4,000,000, comprises non-volatile poly-alkyl and poly-aryl siloxanes natural gum.In preferred embodiments, the siloxanes oil phase comprises siloxanes natural gum or comprises the mixture of siloxanes of siloxanes natural gum.Typically, siloxanes natural gum under 25 ℃, have surpass about 1,000,000mm ²s ^-1Viscosity.Described polysiloxanes natural gum comprises polydimethylsiloxane, as described in Petrarch and other people, comprises US-A-4,152,416 (authorizing Spitzer etc. on May 1st, 1979) and Noll, " chemistry and the polysiloxanes technology " of Walter, New York:Academic Press 1968.Also having the polysiloxanes natural gum of describing is General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE30, and SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76.The instantiation of polysiloxanes natural gum comprises polydimethylsiloxane, (polydimethylsiloxane) (ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer, poly-(dimethyl siloxane) (diphenyl) (ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer, and composition thereof.Be applicable to that preferably siloxanes natural gum of the present invention is that molecular weight is about 200,000 to 4,000,000 siloxanes natural gum, they are selected from dimethiconol and dimethicone, and composition thereof.

Siloxanes among the present invention preferably includes siloxanes natural gum mutually, and it is to join in the said composition as the part in the siloxanes natural gum liquid mixture.When this siloxanes natural gum adds fashionablely as the part in the silicone liquid mixture, this siloxanes natural gum preferably accounts for this silicone liquid mixture weight about 5% to 40%, particularly about 10% to 20%.Suitable polysiloxanes natural gum-fluid mixture of the present invention is the mixture of being made up of following material basically:

(i) molecular weight is about 200,000 to about polysiloxanes of 4,000,000, is selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and polydimethylsiloxane and composition thereof; With

The (ii) carrier of silicone liquid, the viscosity of this carrier is about 0.65mm ².s ^-1To about 100mm ².s ^-1,

I wherein) be about 10: 90 to about 20: 80 with ii) ratio, and wherein said component based on polysiloxanes natural gum have about 100mm ².s ^-1To about 100,000mm ².s ^-1, preferred 500mm ².s ^-1To about 10,000mm ².s ^-1Final viscosity.

Particularly preferredly be applicable to that the siloxanes natural gum liquid mixture based component in the said composition is that molecular weight is about 200,000 to 4,000,000 dimethiconol, and the viscosity of silicone liquid carrier is about 0.65 to 100mm ².s ^-1An example of this silicone component is the Dow Corning Q2-1403 (85%5mm that is bought by Dow Corning ².s ^-1Dimethicone liquid/15% dimethiconol) and Dow CorningQ2-1401.

Be applicable to that further the silicone component in the silicone oil of the present invention is crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer, it randomly is dispersed in a kind of liquid-carrier.Usually, when there being crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer, the gross weight of this composition and its carrier (if present) accounts for said composition 0.1% to 20%, preferably is about 0.5% to 10%, is more preferably 0.5% to 5%.This polymer comprises with the crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer of cross-linking agent.Suitable crosslinking agent is disclosed among the WO98/22085.The example that is applicable to organo-siloxanes polymer of the present invention comprises methyl ethylene polydimethylsiloxane, methyl ethylene diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane and methyl ethylene phenyl methyl diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane.

Being used for concrete commercially available crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer of the present invention is ShinetsuChemical Co., polysiloxanes vinyl cross-linked copolymer mixture that Ltd provides, that sell with trade name KSG, for example KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-17, KSG-18.These materials comprise the compositions of crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer and silicone liquid.Be particularly preferred for of the present invention, particularly with organic amphiphilic emulsifying agent combinations of substances be KSG-18.For KSG-15, KSG-16, the title of the INCI that KSG-17 and KSG-18 provide is respectively ring dimethyl siloxane polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl-dimethyl based polysiloxane cross-linked copolymer, polydimethylsiloxane polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl-dimethyl based polysiloxane cross-linked copolymer, ring dimethyl siloxane polydimethylsiloxane/vinyl-dimethyl based polysiloxane cross-linked copolymer and the poly-trimethicone polydimethylsiloxane of phenyl/phenyl vinyl dimethyl polysiloxane cross-linked copolymer.

Be applicable to that the another kind of silicone component in the siloxanes oil phase of the present invention comprises polydiorganosiloxanepolyurea-polyoxyalkylene copolymer, it contains at least one polydiorganosiloxanepolyurea fragment and at least one polyoxyalkylene fragment.Suitable polydiorganosiloxanepolyurea segment and its copolymer are disclosed among the WO98/22085.Suitable polydiorganosiloxanepolyurea-polyalkylene copolymers is with trade name Belsil ^Available from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Gesch  ftsbereich S, Postfach D-8000 Munich 22 and with trade name Abil ^Available from Th.Goldschmidt Ltd., Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, those of HA4 0YL, for example Belsil ^6031 and Abil ^B88183, particularly preferredly be used for copolymer fluid mixture of the present invention and comprise Dow Corning DC3225C, its CTFA name is called the polydimethyl siloxanes/polydimethy siloxanes copolyol.

Sunscreen

The present composition preferably contains the organic sunscreen agent.Suitable sunscreens has UVA-absorption characteristic, UVB absorption characteristic or its both mixed characteristic.The accurate consumption of sunscreen actives will be according to required sun protection factor, i.e. " SPF " of compositions and required ultraviolet protection level and change.The present composition preferably has at least 10, preferred at least 15 spf value.SPF is commonly used to measure the photoprotection of the anti-erythema of sunscreen.SPF is defined as and erythema is produced minimize required ultraviolet energy to make erythema produce the ratio that minimizes required ultraviolet energy on the skin with not protecting in same individual.Referring to Federal Register, 43, No 166, pp. 38206-38269 (on August 25th, 1978).The consumption of sunscreen be generally about 2% to about 20%, be more typically about 4% to about 14%.Suitable sunscreens includes but not limited to CTFAInternational Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (7 ^ThEdition, volume 2 pp.1672 publish (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1997) by Wenninger and McEwen) described in those.

The present composition preferably contains UVA and absorbs sunscreen actives, and it can absorbing wavelength be the ultraviolet radiation of about 320nm to about 400nm.Suitable UVA absorbs sunscreen actives and is selected from dibenzoylmethane derivative, o-aminobenzoa derivant for example artificial neroli oil and the high menthyl ester of 1-N-acetyl ortho-aminobenzoic acid, and composition thereof.The case description of dibenzoylmethane sunscreen actives is at United States Patent (USP) the 4th, 387, No. 089 (authorizing Depolo); And " sunscreen: research and development, assessment and management ", editor N.J.Loweand N.A.Shaath, Marcel Dekker is among the Inc (1990).UVA-absorbs sunscreen actives preferably to provide the amount of wide spectrum UVA protection to exist independently or with other ultraviolet protection active substance combination that can be present in the said composition.

Preferred UVA sunscreen actives is dibenzoylmethane sunscreen actives and derivant thereof.These materials include but not limited to select following material: 2-methyldiphenyl formoxyl methane; 4-methyldiphenyl formoxyl methane; 4-isopropyl diphenyl formoxyl methane; 4-tert-butyl group dibenzoyl methane; 2; the 4-dimethyl diphenylmethane; 2; the 5-dimethyl diphenylmethane; 4; 4 '-diisopropyl benzoyl methane; 4-(1; the 1-dimethyl ethyl)-4 '-methoxy dibenzoyl methane; 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4 '-methoxy dibenzoyl methane; 2-methyl-5-the tert-butyl group-4 '-methoxy dibenzoyl methane; 2; 4-dimethyl-4 '-methoxy dibenzoyl methane; 2; 6-dimethyl-4 '-tert-butyl group-4 '-methoxy dibenzoyl methane, and composition thereof.Preferred dibenzoyl sunscreen actives comprises and is selected from following material: 4-(1, the 1-dimethyl ethyl)-4 '-methoxy dibenzoyl methane, 4-isopropyl diphenyl formoxyl methane, and composition thereof.More preferred sunscreen active is 4-(1, the 1-dimethyl ethyl)-4 '-methoxy dibenzoyl methane.

Sunscreen actives 4-(1, the 1-dimethyl ethyl)-4 '-methoxy dibenzoyl methane, known butyl methoxydibenzoylmethise or the crocodile benzoic acid (Avobenzone) of also being known as is with trade name Parsol ^1789 available from Givaudan Roure (International) S.A. (Basel is Switzerland) with trade name Eusolex ^9020 available from Merck ﹠amp; Co., and Inc (Whitehouse Station, NJ).Sunscreen 4-isopropyl and benzoyl methane also is known as isopropyl diphenyl formoxyl methane is with trade name Eusolex ^8020 available from Merck.

The present composition preferably also contains the UVB sunscreen actives, and it can absorbing wavelength be the ultraviolet radiation of about 290nm to about 320nm.Said composition contain independently or with can be present in other ultraviolet protection active substance combination in the said composition with safety with the UVB sunscreen actives of UVB protective number is provided effectively.Said composition preferably contains to have an appointment and 0.1% to about 16%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 12%, most preferably from about about 0.5% UVB to about 8% weight absorbs organic sunscreen.

Various UVB sunscreen actives all are applicable to the present invention.The limiting examples of this organic sunscreen active substance is described in the following document: United States Patent (USP) the 5th, 087, No. 372 (authorize Haffey etc., announced on February 11st, 1992); And No. the 5th, 073,371, United States Patent (USP) and the 5th, 073, No. 372 (authorize Turner etc., be December in 1991 and announced in 17th) and Segarin etc., " cosmetic science and technology ", the VIII chapter, the 189th page reaches page or leaf afterwards.Other sunscreen that is suitable for is disclosed in United States Patent (USP) the 4th, 937, No. 370 (authorize Sabatelli, announce June 26 nineteen ninety); With United States Patent (USP) the 4th, 999, No. 186 (authorize Sabatelli etc., announced on March 12nd, 1991).Preferred UVB sunscreen actives is selected from 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano group-3; 2-ethylhexyl N; N-dimethyl-Para-Aminobenzoic ester; para-amino benzoic acid; oxybenzone; the high menthyl ester of salicylic acid; ethylhexyl salicylate; 4; 4 '-methoxyl group-tert-butyl group dibenzoyl methane; 4-isopropyl diphenyl formoxyl methane; the 3-benzylidene camphor; 3-(4-methyl benzal) Camphora; 3-diphenylacrylate ester (being called octocrylene); 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PBSA); cinnamate and derivant thereof be p-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester and p-methoxycinnamic acid monooctyl ester for example; the TEA salicylate; octyldimethyl PABA; camphor derivatives and derivant thereof, and their mixture.Preferred organic sunscreen actives is a 2-cyano group-3,3-diphenylacrylate 2-ethyl hexyl ester (being called octocrylene), 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PBSA), p-methoxycinnamic acid octyl group ester, and composition thereof.Also be applicable to the present invention with form in the salt of acid sunscreen and the acid.

Can in any compositions of the present invention, add and make the stable material of UVA sunscreen, with prevent its when receiving ultraviolet radiation by light degradation, thereby keep its UVA protection effect.Quoted many chemical compounds as proof, and should select those UVA sunscreen and all useful chemical compound of composition in its entirety with these stability properties.Suitable stabilizers includes but not limited to those disclosed in following document: United States Patent (USP) the 5th, 972, No. 316; The 5th, 968, No. 485; The 5th, 935, No. 556; The 5th, 827, No. 508 and WO00/06110.The example of stabilizing agent preferred for the present invention comprises 2-cyano group-3,3-diphenylacrylate 2-ethyl hexyl ester (being called octocrylene), 2-cyano group-3,3-diphenyl-ethyl acrylate, 3,3-diphenylacrylate 2-ethyl hexyl ester, 3,3-two (4-anisyl) ethyl acrylate, and composition thereof.2-cyano group-3,3-diphenylacrylate 2-ethyl hexyl ester is most preferred.

Can also in any compositions of the present invention, add improve the skin affinity of those compositionss, particularly water-fast wash or rub resistance material.The material that this benefit preferably is provided is ethylene and acrylic copolymer.At United States Patent (USP) the 4th, 663, in No. 157 (Brock announced on May 5th, 1987) compositions that contains this copolymer is disclosed.

Except the organic sunscreen agent, the present composition can also contain organic/inorganic substance reason daylight blocking-up material.The limiting examples of suitable physics daylight blocking-up material is described in CTFAInternational Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 6th Edition, 1995, pp.1026-28 and 1103, Sayre, R.M. etc., " physical sunscreen agent ", J.Soc.Cosmet.Chem., vol 41, no 2, among the pp.103-109 (1990).Preferred inorganic physics daylight blocker is zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, and composition thereof.

When using, physics daylight blocker so that the amount of the present composition transparent on skin (promptly not bleaching) exist, preferably be less than or equal about 5%.When using titanium dioxide, it can have anatase, rutile or amorphous structure.Physics daylight blocker, for example titanium dioxide and zinc oxide can be coating protections or with various material coating protections not.These materials include but not limited to aminoacid, and aluminium compound is aluminium oxide, aluminium stearate and Aluminum trilaurate etc. for example; Carboxylic acid and salt thereof is stearic acid and salt thereof for example; Phospholipid is lecithin for example; Organopolysiloxane compound; Inorganic polysiloxane compound is silicon dioxide and silicate for example; And composition thereof.Preferred titanium dioxide derives from Tayca (Japan), is that (Emerson NJ) provides by Tri-K Industries with micro-ion series (for example MT 100SAS).

The present composition preferably contains has an appointment 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 4%, most preferably from about 0.5% inorganic sunscreen to about 2.5% weight.

Multiple optional ingredients can also be joined in the compositions of the present invention as nertralizer, spice and coloring agent.Preferably, any supplementary element can be strengthened the skin softness/slickness of product.In addition, preferably, any of these composition does not have a negative impact to the aesthetic characteristic of product.Therefore, in being applicable to compositions of the present invention, preferably do not use high-load albumen for example collagen and elastin laminin.

Compositions of the present invention also contains has an appointment 0.01% to 10%, preferred about 0.1% to 5% pantothenylol wetting agent.The pantothenylol wetting agent can be selected from D-panthenol ([R]-2,4-dihydroxy-N-[3-hydroxypropyl)]-3, the 3-amide dimethyl butyrate), DL-pantothenylol, calcium pantothenate, Lac regis apis, vitamin B ₅, tie up it the life B ₅Derivant, pantothenylol benzyl ethyl ether, VITAMIN B15, the many sufferings of pyrrole and pantoyl base lactose.

In preferred embodiments, compositions of the present invention also comprises the mixture that is selected from alkali metal salt and alkali salt and salt thereof in addition, is preferably sodium salt, calcium salt and magnesium salt, and composition thereof.It is particularly preferred that to be used for of the present invention be calcium salt and magnesium salt.The amount that compositions of the present invention is preferably based on metal ion comprises the salt of about 5ppm to 500ppm.

In a further preferred embodiment, compositions of the present invention comprises and can comprise the other enzyme that is selected from lipase, phospholipase, glycosidase, lactoperoxidase and cellulase and composition thereof.

The nertralizer of the acidic-group that being applicable to neutralizes contains hydrophilic gelling agent comprises sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, amino methyl propanol, three-buffer agent and triethanolamine.

Other optional materials comprises the horny layer lytic agent; But the antiseptic of water solublity or water solubilising, its consumption is preferably about 0.1% to about 5%, for example Germall 115, methyl hydroxybenzoate, ethyl ester, propyl ester and butyl ester, benzylalcohol, with DMDM Hydantoin iodopropane Ji Dingji carbonic ester, EDTA, the Euxyl of trade name Glydant Plus available from Lonza ^K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-glycol) and phenoxypropanol; Antibacterial is Irgasan for example ^And phenyl phenol (its consumption is preferably about 0.1% to about 5% content); Soluble or colloidal state-soluble humidizer is alduronic acid and starch-grafted sodium polyacrylate Sanwet for example for example ^IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 derive from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, and VA, USA is described in USA-A-4, in 076,663; Vitamin is vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E and derivant thereof and synergist thereof phytantriol and vitamin K and composition thereof aliphatic alcohol 12 carbon three enols for example for example for example; α and beta hydroxy acid; Aloe; Sphingol and plant sphingol, cholesterol; Skin whitener; The N-acetylcysteine; Coloring agent; Antibacterial is TCC/TCS for example, known triclosan and the carbon trichloride of being known as; Spice and spice solubilizer.The example of alpha-hydroxy acid comprises glycolic, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid,, Hydroxycaprylic acid sad with the bonded glycolic of alcohol acid phosphate, Alpha-hydroxy acetic acid, α-pantothenol, Alpha-hydroxy, mixes fruit acid, three-α hydroxyl fruit acid, three fruit acid, Caulis Sacchari sinensis extract, Alpha-hydroxy and botanical (comprising 1-alpha-hydroxy acid and the ethylene glycol polymer in crosslinked fatty acid α-nutrient).The example of preferred alpha-hydroxy acid is glycolic and lactic acid.The preferable amount of alpha-hydroxy acid is maximum 10%.

Compositions of the present invention can comprise about 0.1% to 5% by weight aluminum starch ocentyl succinic salt in addition.Aluminum starch ocentyl succinic salt is the aluminum salt of the product of octene succinic anhydrides and starch, and can trade name Dry Flo by National Starch ﹠amp; Chemical Ltd. buys.Consider dermal sensation and use feature, Dry Flo is applicable to the present invention.

Can in the present composition, add the antiinflammatory of safe and effective amount, preferably account for about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 2% of said composition.Antiinflammatory has been strengthened skin appearance benefits of the present invention, and for example this antiinflammatory helps to provide more all even acceptable skin color or color.The accurate consumption of antiinflammatory in compositions will depend on used concrete antiinflammatory, because the usefulness of different antiinflammatories is very different.

The present composition can also comprise antioxidant/radical scavenger.Antioxidant/radical scavenger can be particularly useful for providing ultra-violet radiation resisting protective effect (ultraviolet radiation can cause that decortication increases the weight of or horny layer in structure change) and the anti-protective effect that can cause other environment agent of skin injury.Suitable consumption is to account for about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% of compositions.Antioxidant/radical scavenger is for example ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and salt thereof.

Add the protective effect that chelating agen can be particularly useful for providing the protective effect (ultraviolet radiation can cause that structure changes in undue decortication or the horny layer) of ultra-violet radiation resisting and resist other environment agent that can cause skin injury.Suitable consumption is to account for about 0.01% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.5% of compositions.The example that is applicable to chelating agen of the present invention is disclosed in United States Patent (USP) the 5th, 487, and in No. 884, this patent is incorporated herein by reference.The chelating agen that preferably is applicable to the present composition is ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), furil-dioxime and derivant thereof.

The present composition can also contain skin lightening agent.When using skin lightening agent, said composition preferably contains has an appointment 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, also preferred about 0.5% to about 2% skin lightening agent.Suitable skin lightening agent comprise known in the art those, comprise kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid and derivant thereof, for example magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.Be applicable to that skin lightening agent of the present invention also comprises those described in WO95/34280 and the WO95/23780; These two pieces of documents are all introduced the present invention as a reference.

But other optional materials comprises the antiseptic of water solublity or solubilising, preferred its content is about 0.1% to about 5%, for example Germall 115, methyl hydroxybenzoate, ethyl ester, propyl ester and butyl ester, benzylalcohol, with DMDM Hydantoin iodopropane base butylcarbanate, EDTA, the Euxyl of trade name Glydant Plus available from Lonza ^K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-glycol) and phenoxypropanol; Antibacterial is Irgasan for example ^And phenyl phenol (its consumption is preferably about 0.1% to about 5% content).Antibacterial is TCC/TCS for example, and known triclosan and the carbon trichloride of being known as also is applicable to the present composition.

Other material described in the present invention comprises pigment, when it when being water-fast, it can help oil-phase component and be included in the oil-phase component aggregate level.Be applicable to that the pigment in the compositions of the present invention is organic or inorganic.Be included in having in addition in the term pigment,, also have astigmatic agent as the hair side finishing agent than light colour or glossy material.It is about 1.3 to about 1.7 particulate matter that the present composition preferably contains refractive index, and this particulate matter is dispersed in the compositions and mean diameter is about 2 to about 30 μ m.Preferably, be applicable to that granule of the present invention has narrow relatively distribution, this means greater than 50% microgranule and drop on separately in intermediate value+/-3 mu m ranges.Preferably more than 50%, preferred more than 60% in addition, more preferably 70% above granule drops in the size range of intermediate value separately.Suitable particulate matter is organic or organosiloxane and be preferably organic siloxane polymer.Preferred granule is free-pouring solid material.So-called " solid " is meant that this granule is not hollow.Exist the space refractive index to produce harmful effect at the center of hollow bead, therefore also can influence the visual effect of granule skin or compositions.Suitable organic particulate materials comprises by above-mentioned poly-methyl six silane, polyamide, polyethylene, polyacrylonitrile, polyacrylic acid, polymethylacrylic acid, polystyrene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and gathers those materials that (dichloroethylene) made.Can also adopt copolymer by the monomer generation of above-mentioned material.Inorganic material comprises silicon dioxide and boron nitride.Be applicable to that the representational example that can buy from the market of particulate matter of the present invention is Tospearl ^145, its mean diameter is about 4.5 μ m and from the EA-209 of Kobo ^, it is the ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer that mean diameter is about 10 μ m, Nylon-12 (by Elf Atochem, France obtains with trade name Orgasol 2002), or its mixture.

Suitable pigment further example is oxide, ultramarine, the D﹠amp of titanium dioxide, pre-dispersed titanium dioxide (from Kobo, as Kobo GWL75CAP), ferrum oxide, acidylate glutamic acid iron salt; C dyestuff, carmine, and composition thereof.According to the kind of compositions, can use pigment composition usually.Consider wettability, dermal sensation, skin appearance and the emulsion compatibility, be applicable to that preferably pigment of the present invention is treated pigment.These pigment can be used chemical compound, handle as aminoacid, siloxanes, lecithin and ester oil.

Aptly, the pH scope of the present composition is about 6.1 to about 10.0, preferred about 7.0 to about 9.0, more preferably from about 8.0 to about 9.0 even more preferably from about 8.0 to about 8.6.Preferably, as required, regulate the pH of final composition by adding acid, alkali or buffer salt.

Cosmetic composition of the present invention preferably has greater than 0.85, more preferably greater than 0.9 even more preferably greater than 0.95 water activity.

Compositions of the present invention is emulsion form and preferably be mixed with viscosity and be at least approximately 4 normally, and 000mPa.s is preferably about 4,000 to about 1,000,000mPa.s, more preferably about 8,000 to about 350,000mPa.s, particularly about 10,000 to about 250,000mPa.s, even more preferably about 10,000 to about 150, and 000mPa.s (25 ℃, pure, Brookfield RVT, T Spindle, rotating speed are 5 rev/mins and HeliopathStand).

The preparation compositions

Adopt the known standard technique of this area professional to prepare compositions of the present invention.Usually should prepare water and/or oil phase respectively, add class patibhaga-nimitta separator matter with any order.If final product is an emulsion, then under vigorous stirring with biphase mixing.Can be after the emulsifying of preparation when nearly finishing, under gentle agitation, add any height volatility in the preparation or be easy to the composition of pyrohydrolysis.

Embodiment

The following example further illustrates the preferred specific embodiments in the scope of the invention.Provide these embodiment and only be for the present invention is described, but not be construed as limiting the invention, because under the condition that does not deviate from spirit and scope of the invention, can carry out many changes the present invention.Except as otherwise noted, all compositions are all represented with the percentage by weight of active component.

Enzymatic compositions

	Embodiment 1	Embodiment 2	Embodiment 3
					％w/w	％w/w	％w/w
Protease 1	100ppm	200ppm	1000ppm
				Standard buffer solution *	In right amount	In right amount	In right amount
				Amount to	100	100	100

^*Adopt the standard buffer solution of instructing in the textbook with pH regulator to required value, for example Handbook of Chemistry and Physics

Glycol composition

	Embodiment	Embodiment	Embodiment	Embodiment	Embodiment
							4	5	6	?7	8
	％w/w	％w/w	％w/w	?％w/w	％w/w
						Deionized water	In right amount	In right amount	In right amount	In right amount	In right amount
Glycerol	7.00	10.00	12.00	?10.00	12.00
						Nicotiamide	0.00	0.00	0.00	?3.50	5.00
Pantothenylol	0.00	0.00	0.00	?0.50	0.50
						Alpha-tocopherol acetate	0.00	0.00	0.00	?0.50	0.50
2-Methylpentadecane	2.94	3.08	3.12	?5.40	5.40

Polyacrylamide and C13-14 isoparaffin and lauryl ether-7 2	????2.50	????2.50	????2.50	????2.50	????2.50
						Polydimethylsiloxane and dimethiconol 3	????2.00	????2.00	????2.00	????2.00	????2.00
The isostearic acid isopropyl ester	????1.33	????1.33	????1.33	????2.40	????2.40
						Sorbitan monostearate and sucrose cocos nucifera oil acid esters 4	????1.00	????1.00	????1.00	????1.00	????1.00
Spermol	????0.71	????0.74	????0.75	????0.50	????0.50
						Vaseline	????0.00	????3.00	????0.00	????5.00	????0.00
The Palmic acid isopropyl esters	????0.50	????0.50	????0.50	????0.00	????0.00
						Docosanol	????0.00	????0.00	????0.00	????0.72	????0.72
SEFA?COTTONATE	????0.66	????0.69	????0.70	????1.20	????1.20
						Stearyl alcohol	????0.47	????0.49	????0.50	????0.72	????0.72
Benzylalcohol	????0.25	????0.25	????0.25	????0.25	????0.25
						Ethylparaben	????0.20	????0.20	????0.20	????0.20	????0.20
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate	????0.10	????0.10	????0.10	????0.10	????0.10
						Disodiumedetate	????0.10	????0.10	????0.10	????0.10	????0.10
Polyethylene glycol oxide-100 stearate 4	????0.10	????0.10	????0.10	????0.10	????0.10
						Stearic acid	????0.10	????0.10	????0.10	????0.10	????0.10
Sodium hydroxide	????0.04	????0.05	????0.05	????0.05	????0.05
	????100	????100	????100	????100	????100

1.Genencor?International，Palo?Alto，California，US

2. by Seppic, 75 Quai D ' Orsay, Paris provides

3. by Dow Corning, Kings Court, 185 Kinds Rd, Reading, Berks, RG1 4EX provides

4. by ICI, PO Box 90, Wilton Centre, Middlesborough, Cleveland, England.TS6 8JE provides

According to above-mentioned formulation compositions.Every square centimeter of usefulness 0.1 to 2 microgram enzymatic solution (embodiment 1-3), use 0.8 to 2 microgram glycol composition (embodiment 4-8) handle to participate in the skin of researcher then, the gross area of handling skin is 35 square centimeters.Measure the level of skin hydration in time then with corneal opacities.

The beauty method of Shi Yonging has shown excellent skin hydration effect, skin softness and skin smoothness benefits in the above-described embodiments.

Claims (14)

1. the beauty method of the skin hydration effect of improvement is provided, and this method comprises local application protease on skin, and local application polyhydric alcohol on skin simultaneously or successively.

2. the beauty method of the skin hydration effect of improvement is provided, and this method comprises local application polyhydric alcohol on skin, and local application protease on skin simultaneously or successively.

3. the beauty method of the skin hydration effect of improvement is provided, and this method comprises local application cosmetic composition on skin, and said composition contains:

(a) about 0.0001% protease to about 1% weight; With

(b) about 0.1% polyhydric alcohol to about 20% weight.

4. the beauty method of the skin hydration effect of improvement is provided, this method comprises that local application contains the 0.0001% first kind of cosmetic composition to about 1% weight protease of having an appointment on skin, and simultaneously or successively on skin local application contain 0.1% the second kind of cosmetic composition of having an appointment to about 20% weight polyhydric alcohol.

5. as any one described beauty method in the claim 1 to 4, wherein said enzyme is selected from subtilisin, chymase and elastoser albuminoid enzyme.

6. as any one described beauty method in the claim 1 to 5, wherein said enzyme is selected from bacterial serine protease and variant thereof, and they are obtained by bacillus amyloliquefaciens, Bacillus licheniformis and/or bacillus subtilis, comprise Alcalase ^, Esperase ^, Savinase ^, Maxatase ^, Maxacal ^With Maxapem 15 ^(through the Maxacal of protein engineeringization ^) and subtilisin BPN and BPN '.

7. as any one described beauty method in the claim 1 to 6, wherein said enzyme is selected from Alcalase ^, BPN ', protease A, protease B, protease D and Protease F and composition thereof, preferred protease F.

8. as claim 3 or 4 described beauty methods, wherein cosmetic composition contains and has an appointment 0.001% to about 0.5%, most preferably from about 0.005% protease to about 0.1% weight.

9. as claim 3 or 4 described beauty methods, wherein cosmetic composition contains and has an appointment 0.5% to about 18%, preferred about 2% to about 15%, more preferably from about 5% polyhydric alcohol to about 12% weight.

10. as claim 3 or 4 described beauty methods, wherein polyhydric alcohol is selected from glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol, hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and composition thereof.

11. beauty method as claimed in claim 10, wherein polyhydric alcohol is selected from glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol and composition thereof.

12. as any one described beauty method in the claim 1 to 11, wherein this method also comprises using on skin and is selected from vitamin B ₃The skin care actives of component, pantothenylol and alpha-tocopherol acetate.

13. beauty method as claimed in claim 12, wherein skin care actives is a vitamin B ₃Component.

14. as claim 12 or 13 described beauty methods, wherein skin care actives is the compound vitamin B that contains nicotiamide, pantothenylol and retinol compound ₃