CN1227482A - Cosmetic compositions - Google Patents

Cosmetic compositions Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1227482A
CN1227482A CN97197025A CN97197025A CN1227482A CN 1227482 A CN1227482 A CN 1227482A CN 97197025 A CN97197025 A CN 97197025A CN 97197025 A CN97197025 A CN 97197025A CN 1227482 A CN1227482 A CN 1227482A
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Prior art keywords
acid
oil
skin
composition
cosmetic composition
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CN97197025A
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
C·桑
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Procter and Gamble Co
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Procter and Gamble Co
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Priority claimed from GBGB9613524.9A external-priority patent/GB9613524D0/en
Priority claimed from GBGB9619110.1A external-priority patent/GB9619110D0/en
Application filed by Procter and Gamble Co filed Critical Procter and Gamble Co
Publication of CN1227482A publication Critical patent/CN1227482A/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008—Preparations for oily skin

Abstract

A cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising: (a) continuous oil phase; (b) discontinuous aqueous phase; and (c) willow bark extract. The compositions of the invention provide regulation of the oily and/or shiny appearance of the skin.

Description

Cosmetic composition
Invention field
The present invention relates to cosmetic composition, more specifically, relate to painted foundation cream make-up composition and covering agent.
Background of invention
Foundation compositions can impose on face and health other position so that the colour of skin and quality evenly and cover pore, defective, microgroove etc.Also can use foundation compositions and make skin moisturizing, balance skin oiliness and protection antagonism sunlight, the adverse effect of wind and adverse circumstances are provided.The general type that cosmetic composition obtains is liquid state or emulsifiable paste shape suspension, emulsion, gel, compacting powder or anhydrous oil or waxiness compositions.At US-A-3,444,291, US-A-4,486,405, US-A-4,804,532, US-A-3,978,207, US-A-4,659,562, US-A-5,143,722 and the X IV that the people showed an I.F.S.C.C. conference such as Nakamura preprint collection, Barcelona, 1986, Vol.I has the description of such cosmetic makeup compositions among the 51-63 (1986).
The foundation compositions of water-in-oil emulsion form is for the public knows, and they can provide good covering effect and good skin impression, persistency and outward appearance are provided.It also is very important for the Water-In-Oil foundation compositions that oil and bright control method are provided, because they can influence skin appearance.The people of oil type or compound skin can appear fuel-displaced and/or bright outward appearance usually between twice cleaning of skin.After skin cleaned, As time goes on, oily or bright outward appearance can increase usually gradually.For fear of this outward appearance, the individual must from morning to night or clean the oil on skin or the suction peeling skin or use the powder of oil suction or make oil or bright looking become minimum with some other methods on skin.
This oil type or to meet type skin just be to comprise that the prescription that the face of foundation cream applies some make up has proposed a concrete challenge.This be because along with oil at oil type or meet when accumulating on people's the skin of face of type skin, (cosmetics can not block oil, thereby cause the outward appearance of oil or light) will appear in oily or bright outward appearance, the spreadability of cosmetics and persistency also can reduce.People had done many effort and had attempted to provide a kind of foundation make-up that can offset the skin oil mass.Clay, Talcum, Silicon stone, starch, polymer and other materials similar are proposed to be used in cosmetic composition, to absorb sebum and control oil type skin.But with regard to the persistency of the size of effect and effect or both, many compositionss known in the art can only provide very limited benefit.Therefore, just need provide a kind of foundation compositions, said composition has bigger oil/bright control ability and improved skin appearance.
Hungarian patent specification numbers 190391 discloses the cosmetic composition that contains the plant extract mixture, and this extract comprises the water-pure elite (essence) of (condensed) bark of willow of condensation.The cosmetic composition of the disclosure can obtain various benefits through using, comprise moist sensitive skin, pore refining, skin renewal, improvement blood circulation and provide antibiotic and antiperspirant active.The embodiment that is given is an O/w emulsion.
Be surprisingly found out that now, by extract of willow bark being incorporated into a kind of water-in-oil emulsion, can provide a kind of cosmetic composition, said composition has the effect and the improved skin appearance of improved control oil and/or sebum.
Known salicin and the tannic acid of being rich in of bark of willow also has the character of pain relieving, antibiotic and anti-inflammatory according to reports.Therefore, the present composition also provides antibiotic and anti-inflammatory activity.
Therefore, main purpose of the present invention is when being applied to this cosmetic composition on the skin, can provide a kind of cosmetic composition with improved oil and/or bright control action and improved outward appearance.
Another object of the present invention provides a kind of antibiotic and cosmetic composition anti-inflammatory activity of having.
Summary of the invention
According to an aspect of the present invention, provide a kind of cosmetic composition of water-in-oil emulsion form, said composition comprises:
(a) successive oil phase; With
(b) discontinuous water; With
(c) extract of willow bark.
When using cosmetic composition of the present invention on skin, said composition can provide the effect and the improved skin appearance of improved control oil and/or light and/or sebum/skin oil.In addition, said composition also provides anti-inflammatory and antibiotic effect.
According to a second aspect of the invention, provide the use present composition to regulate the skin appearance, particularly skin of face of oil and/or light.
According to a further aspect in the invention, provide the use extract of willow bark to regulate the sebum and the skin oil of skin of face.
All concentration and ratio all are based on the weight of whole compositionss, except as otherwise noted.Oxyalkylated chain length and degree also are based on average weight.
Detailed Description Of The Invention
Cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises an oil-continuous phase, discontinuous aqueous phase and extract of willow bark.Said composition exists with the water-in-oil emulsion form.
Extract of willow bark
Willow has the bark of brown protuberance, and this bark is rich in salicin and tannic acid.It has various characteristics according to reports, comprises the activity of pain relieving, antibiotic and anti-inflammatory.Can prepare extract of willow bark by the new bark of gathering of solvent extraction.In extracting method, all kinds of solvents be can use, water, propylene glycol and ethanol comprised.But by the vacuum distilling concentrated extract.Extract of willow bark can be purchased with " Free Willowbark Extract " and the name of an article of " BrookosomeWillowbark " from BrooksIndustries company.Extract of willow bark optimizes the inside aqueous phase of present water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention.The improved control oil/light that provides that the present composition is especially valuable acts on and improved skin appearance.
The consumption that appears at the extract of willow bark in the compositions of the present invention is the safe and effective amount that can regulate the oil/bright looking of skin, preferred its content is about 0.1% to about 20% of composition weight, more preferably about 1% to about 15%, especially is about 1% to about 10%.
" safe and effective amount " used herein refers to can significantly cause enough amounts positive improvement effect, chemical compound described herein, compositions or other material under service condition, but this amount again can not be too high to prevent side effect improperly (for example tangible skin irritation or allergy), and this is in technical staff's normal determination range.The safe and effective amount of chemical compound, compositions or other material changes with the acceptable topical vehicle of cosmetics of the material of character, particular compound and the compositions of time of the severity of skin, age and the physical condition of the organism of specifically using, condition, processing, complication or other use, use with according to the other factors of technical staff's knowledge and experience.
" regulate oil and/or bright skin appearance " used herein refers to and prevents, reduces and/or suppress oil and/or bright looking on the skin.By regulating the skin appearance of oil and/or light, can obtain one or more following cosmetic benefits: obviously reduce visible oil, light or clear zone on the skin; Basically can't see oil, light or clear zone on the skin; Skin is unglazed modification basically; User has the more uniform colour of skin.Regulating oil and/or bright skin appearance can cause compositions to penetrate generation and the seriousness that compositions becomes this situation of the oil that can see at the abrasion resistance of more all even extension covering, enhancing composition on the skin and/or the oil that reduces on the skin.
Oil phase
The present composition is that the form with water-in-oil emulsion exists.Oil phase can comprise silicone oil, non-silicone oil organic oil or its mixture.
In preferred embodiments, oil phase comprises the mixture of Y 7175 and non-volatile polysiloxanes.Polysiloxanes is used to provide the skin condition performance here.The content of polysiloxane fluid is about 1% to about 50% weight.The Y 7175 that is fit to comprises ring-type and the poly-organopolysiloxane of line style volatility.Here predicate " non-volatile " is meant that its vapour pressure is not higher than the material of 0.1mmHg under an atmospheric pressure and 25 ℃ of conditions.Here term " volatility " is meant and is not nonvolatile material, or its vapour pressure is higher than the material of 0.1mmHg under the same conditions.
At people's such as Todd " used for cosmetic Y 7175 fluid ", can find description among the 91 Cosmetics andTioletries 27-32 (1976) about various Y 7175s.
Preferred cyclic polysiloxanes comprises and contains about 9 silicon atoms of average about 3-, preferably contains the ring-type dimethyl siloxane chain of about 4-5 silicon atom.Preferred straight chain polysiloxanes comprises the polydimethylsiloxane that contains about 9 silicon atoms of average about 3-.The straight chain Y 7175 generally has the viscosity less than about 5 centistokes (25 ℃), and the ring-type material has the viscosity less than about 10 centistokes.The example that is applicable to silicone oil of the present invention comprises: Dow Corning 344, Dow Corning 21330, DowCorning 345 and Dow Corning 200 (being made by Dow Corning Corporation): Silicone 7207 and Silicone 7158 (being made by Union Carbide Corporation), SF:202 (being made by General Electric Co. Limited) and SWS-03314 (being made by Stauffer chemical company).
The vapour pressure of non-volatile polysiloxanes as defined above, in the time of 25 ℃, 10 the average viscosities of preferably having an appointment to about 100,000 centipoises, more preferably from about 100 to about 10,000 centipoises, further preferred about 500 average viscosities to about 6000 centipoises.Yet can also use more low viscous fixedness polysiloxanes regulator.Can measure viscosity by means of the glass capillary tube viscometer that the method for testing CTM0004 of Dow Corning Corporation on the 20th provided by July in 1970.
The fixedness polysiloxane fluid that is applicable to this comprises polysiloxanes that poly-alkylsiloxane, poly-aryl siloxanes, polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane, amino-functional replace, polyether siloxane copolymer and composition thereof.Being used for polysiloxanes of the present invention can comprise as methyl, hydroxyl, oxirane, expoxy propane base, amino and carboxyl substituted and/or end-blocking with any amount of structure division, as long as this material still is applicable to the topical cosmetic product.Yet, can use other polyorganosiloxane fluid of skin adjusting function.Operable nonvolatile poly-alkylsiloxane liquid comprises for example polydimethylsiloxane.These polysiloxanes are can be by the Viscasil that obtains as General Electric Co. Limited (RTM) series and Dow Corning 200 series of products that obtained by Dow Corning Corporation.Be preferably about 10mm at 25 ℃ range of viscosities 2S -1To about 100,000mm 2S -1Operable polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane liquid also comprises for example PSI.These polysiloxanes are can be by SF1075 aminomethyl phenyl liquid that obtains as General Electric Co. Limited or the 556 cosmetics-stage fluids that obtained by DOW CORNING.Operable polyether siloxane copolymer comprises as a kind of dimethyl polysiloxane of poly(propylene oxide) modification (as Dow Corning DC-1248), can also use the mixture of oxirane or oxirane and expoxy propane to carry out described modification.
The document of describing the polyorganosiloxane fluid that is fit to comprises authorized the patent USA3964500 of Drakoff on June 22nd, 1976 by the patent USA2826551 of Green; The patent USA436837 of Pader; Patent GBA849433 with Woolston.In addition, 1984 " polysiloxane compound " by PetrarchSystems Inc. classification provides the inventory of (but being not whole) on a large scale of the polyorganosiloxane fluid that is fit to.
The preferred nonvolatile polysiloxanes that is applicable to this comprises poly-diorganosiloxane polyoxyalkylene copolymers, and it contains at least one poly-diorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment.Poly-diorganosiloxane segment has general formula:
R bSiO (4-b)/2Siloxane unit, wherein b is about 0 to about 3 value, each silicon has average about 2 R bases all siloxane units in copolymer, and R is selected from methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and a kind ofly make described polyoxyalkylene chain paragraph key be incorporated into bilvalent radical on the poly-diorganosiloxane segment.The polyoxyalkylene segment has at least about 500, preferably form to the polyoxyethylene units of about 100% (mole) to the polypropylene oxide unit of about 50% (mole) and about 50 at least about 1000 mean molecule quantity and by about 0, at least one end of described polyoxyalkylene segment is grafted onto or the covalent bond form is bonded on the described poly-diorganosiloxane segment directly or indirectly, and any end that is not bonded to the described polyoxyalkylene segment on the described poly-diorganosiloxane segment all uses a kind of END CAPPED GROUP next saturated; The weight ratio of poly-diorganosiloxane segment and polyoxyalkylene segment is about 2 to about 8 in the described copolymer.This base polymer has been described among the USA4268499.
What be applicable to this is poly dimethyl polysiloxanes-polyoxyalkylene copolymers that following formula is represented: R wherein 1Be selected from the C1-C5 alkyl, be preferably methyl; Z is about 1 to 4; The selection of x and y is that to make the weight ratio of poly-diorganosiloxane segment and polyoxyalkylene segment be about 2 to about 8, mol ratio a: (a+b) be about 0.5 to about 1, and R is the chain END CAPPED GROUP, particularly is selected from hydrogen; Hydroxyl; Alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, propyl group, butyl, benzyl; Aryl such as phenyl; Alkoxyl such as methoxyl group, ethyoxyl, propoxyl group, butoxy; Benzyloxy; Aryloxy group such as phenoxy group; Alkenyloxy such as ethyleneoxy and propenyloxy group; Acyloxy such as acetoxyl group, acryloxy and propionyloxy and amino as dimethylamino.
The copolymer that more preferably has the poly-diorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene of following general formula used herein:
Figure A9719702500101
Wherein x, y and R are as defined above.
Segmental quantity and mean molecule quantity should make the poly-diorganosiloxane segment in the copolymer and the weight ratio of polyoxyalkylene segment be preferably about 2.5 to about 4.0 in the copolymer.
The copolymer that is fit to is the commercially available Wacker-Chemie company limited that originates from, address Geschaftsbereich S, the commodity of Postfach D-8000 Munich 22 are called the product of Belsil (RTM) and originate from the Th.Goldschmidt company limited, address Tego House, VictoriaRoad, Ruislip, Middlesex, the commodity of HA40YL are called the product of Abil (RTM).What be applicable to this particularly preferably is Belsil (RTM) 6031, Abil (RTM) B88183, DC3225C, DC 5200, Abil We09 and Abil EM90.Here the CTFA name of preferred polysiloxanes is called dimethyl polysiloxane copolymerization polyol.
Compositions of the present invention preferably contains about 30% to about 90% oil phase of composition weight.Oil phase preferably contain oil phase weight about 0.01% to about non-volatile polysiloxanes of 25%, more preferably about 0.05% to about 10%.Oil phase preferably contain oil phase weight about 75% to about 99.99%, 90% to about 99.95% Y 7175 more preferably from about.
The oil phase of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention also can contain one or more non-silicone organic oils, as from mineral, plant, the oil of animal, fat and wax, fatty acid ester, aliphatic alcohol, natural or the artificial oil of selecting in fatty acid and their mixture, these components are used to obtain the softening agent cosmetic properties.Be appreciated that oil phase for example can contain, at most about 25%, preferred at most only 10% oil phase solubility emulsifying agent compositions.Consider that from the angle of decision oil phase amount these components are not considered to oil phase component.
The organic oil that is applicable to this for example comprises, the C that optional hydroxyl replaces 8-C 50Unsaturated fatty acid and ester thereof, C 8-C 30The C of satisfied fatty acid 1-C 24Ester such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and Wickenol 142 (Wickenol142), Cera Flava, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohol such as the pure and mild spermol of docosane, hydrocarbon such as mineral oil, vaseline and squalane, fat dehydration Pyrusussuriensis sugar ester is (referring to the US-A-3988255 that authorized on October 26th, 1976, Seiden,), lanoline and lanolin derivative, triglyceride of animal and vegetable such as almond oil, Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen, wheat germ oil, Semen Lini oil, simmondsia belongs to oil, japanese plum seed oil, Oleum Juglandis, the Petiolus Trachycarpi fruit oil, pistachio nut oil, Oleum sesami, Oleum Brassicae campestris, cade oil, Semen Maydis oil, peach kernel oil, poppy seed oil, Oleum Pini, Oleum Ricini, Oleum Glycines, American Avocado Tree oil, safflower oil, Oleum Cocois, hazelnut oil, olive oil, Oleum Vitis viniferae, Adeps Bovis seu Bubali resin, the C of sal fat and Oleum Helianthi and dimerization and trimer acid 1-C 24Ester, as the dimeric dibasic acid diisopropyl ester, malic acid two iso stearyl esters, dimeric dibasic acid two different stearyl esters, trimer acid three different stearyl esters.In the said components, it is highly preferred that mineral oil, vaseline, unsaturated fatty acid and ester thereof and their mixture.
Said composition also comprises water in addition, is preferably about 10% to about 60%, more preferably about 30% to about 50% of composition weight.Non-essential component
A lot of non-essential components can be incorporated into this compositions.Followingly be that some are nonrestrictive, component as used herein.
Acidic skin nursing active matter
The present composition also comprises other acidic skin nursing active matter.
Stable acidic skin care active matter can be selected from hydroxy carboxylic acid.The term acidic skin care active matter here is meant any skin care activity thing that contains acidic functionality (as carboxyl, sulfo group).
The optional monobasic hydroxy-acid of hydroxy carboxylic acid that is fit to from following chemical constitution:
R 1(CR 2OH) m(CH 2) nCOOH is R wherein 1, R 2Be H, alkyl, aralkyl or aryl, can be saturated or unsaturated, straight chain, side chain or annular, have 1 to 25 carbon atom; M=1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 or 9; N=0 or be no more than 23 number.
Monobasic hydroxy-acid can be the form of free acid, lactone or salt.Lactone can be intermolecular or intramolecular lactone, and still, the most general is the intramolecularly lactone, has ring structure, forms by eliminating one or more hydrones between hydroxyl and carboxyl.Since monobasic hydroxy-acid is organically in essence, they can form salt or complex with inorganic or organic base such as ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide or potassium or triethanolamine.
Monobasic hydroxy-acid and related compound thereof can form existence by stereoisomer, as D, L and DL type.
Represent R 1And R 2Typical alkyl, aralkyl and aryl comprise methyl, ethyl, propyl group, isopropyl, benzyl and phenyl.R 1(R 2) and (CH 2) nHydrogen atom can be by non-sense element such as F, CL, Br, I, S or as C 1-C 9The group of saturated or undersaturated low alkyl group or alkoxyl replaces.Representational monobasic hydroxy-acid is 2-glycolic (glycolic), 2 hydroxy propanoic acid (lactic acid), 2-methyl 2 hydroxy propanoic acid (methyllactic acid), the 2-hydroxybutyric acid, phenyl 2-hydroxyacetic acid (mandelic acid), phenyl 2-methyl 2-hydroxyacetic acid, 3-phenyl 2 hydroxy propanoic acid (phenyl-lactic acid), 2,3-dihydroxypropionic acid (glyceric acid), 2,3, the 4-trihydroxy-butyric acid, 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxy valeric acid, 2,3,4,5, the 6-hexonic acid, 2-hydroxy-dodecanoic acid (α hydroxylauric acid), 2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydroxy enanthic acid, diphenyl 2-hydroxyacetic acid (diphenylglycollic acid), the 4-hydroxymandelic acid, the 4-chloro mandelic acid, the 3-hydroxybutyric acid, 4-hydroxyl butanols, the 2-hydroxycaproic acid, the 5-hydroxy-dodecanoic acid, sabinic acid, the 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, juniperic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methyl butanoic acid, 2-hydroxy-4-methyl valeric acid, 3-hydroxyl-4-methoxyl group mandelic acid, 4-hydroxyl-3-methoxyl group mandelic acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methyl butanoic acid, 3-(2-hydroxyphenyl) lactic acid, 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl) lactic acid, six hydrogen mandelic acid, 3-hydroxy-3-methyl valeric acid, the 4-hydroxydecanoic acid, 5-hydroxydecanoic acid and aleuritic acid.
The another kind of hydroxy acid that is applicable to this is the hydroxyl binary acid of following formula:
HOOC (CHOH) m(CH 2) nCOOH is m=1 wherein, and 2,3,4,5,6,7,8, or 9; N=0 or be no more than 23 integer.
The hydroxy-dicarboxylic acid can free acid, the form of lactone or salt exists.Hydroxyl binary carboxylic and related compound thereof can exist by stereoisomer form, as D, L, and DL and meso-form.
The hydrogen that is connected on the carbon atom can replace by non-sense element such as F, Cl, Br, I, S or as the group of saturated or unsaturated low alkyl group of C1-C9 or alkoxyl.
Representational hydroxy-dicarboxylic acid has 2-hydroxymalonic acid. (hydroxymalonic acid), 2-hydroxyl butanediol (malic acid), erythrose diacid (erythraric acid) and 2,3-dyhydrobutanedioic acid (tartaric acid), arabinose diacid (arabiraric acid), ribose diacid (ribaric acid), xylose diacid (xylaricacid) and lyxose diacid (lyxaric acid), glucaric acid (saccharic acid), galactosaccharic acid (glactaric acid), mannosaccharic acid (mannaric acid), gulose diacid (gularic acid), allaricacid, altrose diacid (altraric acid), idosaccharic acid (idaric acid) and talomucic acid (talaric acid).
The 3rd class hydroxy acid that is applicable to this has the chemical compound of many kinds, and it is not easy to represent with the general formula that the above-mentioned first kind or second class are used.Comprise in the 3rd class hydroxy acid: the hydroxy carboxylic acid of following formula:
R (OH) m(COOH) nWherein m, n=1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 or 9, R=H, alkyl, aralkyl or aryl have 1 to 25 carbon atom, saturable or unsaturated, straight chain, side chain or annular; Citric acid, 1-Hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid., citramalic acid, agaric acid (n-hexadecyl citric acid), quinic acid, alduronic acid, comprise glucuronic acid, glucurone, galacturonic acid, galacturonic acid acid lactone, oxypyroracemic acid, hydroxypyruvate phosphate ester, ascorbic acid, dihydroascorbate, dihydroxytartaric acid, 2-hydroxyl-2-Methyl Butyric Acid, 1-hydroxyl-1-cyclopropanic acid, 2-hydroxyl hexandial, 5-hydroxylysine, 3-hydroxyl-2-aminovaleric acid, tropic acid, 4-hydroxyl-2,2-diphenyl butyric acid, 3-hydroxyl-3-methylglutaric acid and 4-hydroxyl-3-penetenoic acid.
The 3rd class hydroxy acid can free acid, the form of lactone or salt exists, also can exist by stereoisomer form, and as D, L, DL and meso-form.
The hydrogen that is connected on the carbon atom can replace by non-sense element such as F, Cl, Br, I, S or as the group of saturated or unsaturated low alkyl group of C1-C9 or alkoxyl.
The mixture of hydroxy acid also can be used for this compositions.Adopt hydroxy acid here from the angle that reduces wrinkle and improvement dermal sensation and outward appearance.
Here other hydroxy acid of Shi Yonging comprises salicylic acid, tretinoin and Azelaic Acid.
The preferred acidic skin care activity composition that is applicable to this comprises salicylic acid, tretinoin, Azelaic Acid, lactic acid, acetone acid and composition thereof.More preferably salicylic acid and Azelaic Acid, especially salicylic acid.Salicylic acid is as the anti-acne active ingredient of this compositions.
The content of acidic skin care active component be composition weight about 0.1% to about 10%, preferred about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3%.
The acidic skin care active component dissolves in water or water-alcohol solution, and water-alcohol solution for example is the solution based on C2-C6 alcohol, two pure and mild many alcohol, and preferred alcohol is selected from ethanol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, hexanediol and its mixture.The preferred content with about 1% to about 20% of alcohol is present in the compositions.Water/the water-alcohol solution of final skin care activity composition preferably has under the room temperature (25 ℃) less than the pH value of about pKa+1, and wherein pKa is the logarithm acidity constant of protonated fully skin care activity composition.In preferred embodiments, the pH of final solution is less than about pKa.
Therefore, the logarithm acidity constant is defined by following balance
H nA=H ++ H N-1A -H wherein nA is fully protonated acid, and n is the proton number in the protonated fully acid, H N-1A is the conjugate base corresponding to the acid of loss proton.
Therefore this equilibrated acidity constant is:
Figure A9719702500141
And pK a=-log10K n
For the purpose of this description, acidity constant is that zero condition is given a definition 25 ℃ and ionic strength.Desirable literature value under the possible situation (seeing " stability constant of metal-ionic complex ", SpecialPublication No.25, chemistry meeting, London); When query occurring, use glass electrode by these values of potentiometric determination.
The pKa of acidic skin care active component used herein is preferably about 1 to about 5.5, and more preferably from about 2 to about 4.5, particularly about 2 to about 4.0.
It is about 6 that water pH is lower than, and more preferably from about 2 to about 5, particularly about 2.5 to about 4.Less than about 5 o'clock, there was not acid labile substances in preferred water, as polyacrylic acid or polymethylacrylic acid or ester at pH value.
The present composition also can comprise the solubilizing agent of the acid skin care activity thing of solubilising.Any solubilizing agent that is suitable for using in cosmetic composition all can be used.Here preferred solubilizing agent is selected from the polyethylene glycol oxide-polypropylene oxide ether of C4-C22 alcohol, based on the solubilizing agent of ketopyrrolidine, HLB greater than about 15, be preferably greater than about 18 non-ionic surface active agent and its mixture based on Polyethylene Glycol.
Here the solubilizing agent based on ketopyrrolidine of Shi Yonging comprises polyvinyl pyrrolidone or C1-C4 alkyl polyvinyl pyrrolidone, its molecular weight (all sticking) about 1,500 to about 1,500,000, preferred about 3,000 to about 700,000, more preferably from about 5,000 to about 100,000.Suitable example based on the solubilizing agent of ketopyrrolidine is polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP) (or claiming povidone) and butylation polyvinyl pyrrolidone.Here most preferred solubilizing agent based on ketopyrrolidine is a polyvinyl pyrrolidone.PYP can be commercial with Luviskol (RTM) trade name from BASF Corp.Here preferred PVP solubilizing agent is the Luviskol K17 of viscosity-average molecular weight about 9,000.Other is applicable to that this solubilizing agent based on ketopyrrolidine comprises C1-C18 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl ketopyrrolidine, as the lauryl ketopyrrolidine.
Content based on the solubilizing agent of ketopyrrolidine in the said composition is about 0.1% to about 10%, preferred about 0.1% to about 5%, especially about 0.5% to about 2% of composition weight.The acidic skin care active component is about 10: 1 to about 1: 10 with weight ratio based on the solubilizing agent of ketopyrrolidine, preferred about 5: 1 to about 1: 5.
Also comprise about 0.01% to about 5% heavy auxiliary acid or its salt in the preferred embodiment of the invention, this acid or salt are less than or equal to water soluble under the situation of pKa value of respective acids (as citric acid, boric acid) and salt and its mixture at pH value.From helping the dissolved angle of acidic skin care active component, it is useful that these materials are used in combination with complexant based on ketopyrrolidine.From this viewpoint, particularly preferably be the sodium salt of citric acid.In preferred embodiments, the dissolubility of acid or its salt is at least 5% weight by weight (25 ℃)
Especially preferred solubilizing agent in the present composition is a non-ionic surface active agent, is selected from polyethylene glycol oxide-polypropylene oxide ether of C4-C22 alcohol and composition thereof.Non-ionic surface active agent is nursed the solubilizing agent of active matter here as acidic skin in the discontinuous aqueous phase.Polyethylene glycol oxide-polypropylene oxide the ether of suitable C4-C22 alcohol used herein comprises the chemical compound with following general formula: Wherein x is about 1 to about 35, is preferably about 1 to about 10; Y is about 1 to about 45, is preferably about 1 to about 30; R is C4-C22 alkyl group or its mixture of straight or branched.In an embodiment preferred, (x+y) more than or equal to 5, be preferably greater than or equal 10, more preferably greater than or equal 15.The ratio of x: y is about 1: 1 to 1: 10.
The example of suitable R group comprises cetyl, butyl, stearyl, cetearyl, decyl, lauryl and myristyl in the following formula.
The example of the polyethylene glycol oxide of appropriate C 4-C22 alcohol-polypropylene oxide ether comprises (using the CTFA name) PPG-4-Ceteth-1, PPG-4-Ceteth-5, PPG-4-Ceteth-10, PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-8-Ceteth-1, PPG-8-Ceteth-2, PPG-8-Ceteth-5, PPG-8-Ceteth-10, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, PPG-2-Buteth-3, PPG-2-Buteth-5, PPG-5-Buteth-7, PPG-9-Buteth-12, PPG-28-Buteth-35, PPG-12-Buteth-16, PPG-15-Buteth-20, PPG-20-Buteth-30, PPG-24-Buteth-27, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-33-Buteth-45, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, PPG-4-Ceteareth-12, PPG-10-Ceteareth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-10, PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-2-Isodeceth-4, PPG-2-Isodeceth-6, PPG-2-Isodeceth-9, PPG-2-Isodeceth-12, PPG-3-Isodeceth-1, PPG-4-Laureth-5, PPG-4-Laureth-2, PPG-4-Laureth-7, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-3-Myreth-11, PPG-3-Myreth-3 and PPG-9-Steareth-3.
Preferred polyethylene glycol oxide used herein-polypropylene oxide ether is the ether with C8-C16 alcohol of formula I structure, and wherein x is 2 to 12, and y is 10 to 30, and the ratio of x: y is about 1: 2 to about 1: 8.
Here polyethylene glycol oxide-polypropylene oxide the ether of the especially preferred C4-C22 alcohol that uses is those above-mentioned materials with formula I structure, and wherein R is a cetyl, and x is about 4 to about 8, and y is about 15 to about 25, and the ratio of x: y is about 1: 3 to about 1: 5.From improving the deliquescent angle of acidic skin nursing active matter, especially preferred ether is PPG-5-Ceteth-20, can buy by trade name ProcetylAWS.
The concentration of solubilizing agent used herein be preferably composition weight about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably about 1% to about 10%, especially be about 2% to about 8%.
Here embodiment preferred comprises the mixture of a kind of colorant or colorant.Colorant used herein must be compatible with any acidic skin care active matter of occurring in the compositions, and have good whole color stability.Here the colorant of Shi Yonging can be organic and/or inorganic.The term colorant also comprises low color or glossy material, as unglazed dressing agent and light scattering agent.The example of the colorant that is fit to has iron oxides, rutile titanium dioxide, anatase titania, ferrum oxide, ferrous oxide, chromium oxide, chromic oxide gel, manganese violet, acyl glutamic acid iron oxides, ultramarine blue, D﹠amp; C dyestuff, carmine and composition thereof.The type that depends on cosmetic composition, foundation cream or kermes in this way, the coloring material for mixing thing can be used usually.
Foundation compositions also can comprise at least a unglazed dressing agent.The effect of unglazed dressing agent is to cover skin defect and reduce light.As Silicon stone beadlet, Muscovitum, Talcum, polyethylene that Silicon stone, hydration Silicon stone, siloxane treated are crossed, titanium dioxide, bentonite, hectorite, Kaolin, Chalk, kieselguhr, attapulgite zinc oxide etc. can use the inorganic reagent that allows in these class cosmetics (promptly be included in the third edition " CTFA used for cosmetic composition dictionary " those).Useful especially unglazed dressing agent is the low gloss colorant, and as phthalandione Muscovitum (with the Muscovitum of titanium dioxide parcel), it is wrapped up by barium sulfate again.Be used as in the inorganic component of unglazed dressing agent, low gloss colorant, Talcum, polyethylene, hydration silicon close, Kaolin, titanium dioxide and composition thereof are especially preferred.Here the material as scattering diluent of Shi Yonging also can be described to the inorganic spherical material, and it is to have about at the most 100 microns, and preferred about 5 to about 50 microns particle diameter, as the spherical silica grain.
The example of other colorant comprises the color lake of organic toner, as FD﹠amp; Red No. 7 calcium color lakes of C and FD﹠amp; The yellow No. 5 aluminum color lakes of C, D﹠amp; Red No. 9 barium color lakes of C and D﹠amp; Red No. 30 of C.
Consider that from the angle of humidification, skin feel, skin appearance and the emulsion compatibility preferred colorant used herein is treated colorant.Can use such as the chemical compound of aminoacid as lysine, polysiloxanes, lauroyl, collagen protein, polyethylene, lecithin and ester oil and handle colorant.Most preferred colorant is the colorant that polysiloxanes is handled.
The colorant that highly preferred colorant used herein is wrapped up by the organosilicon component, the organosilicon component is selected from poly-organopolysiloxane or silane, wherein the potential hydrogen content of Bao Guo colorant is that every gram occlusion pigment is lower than about 2.0, preferably be lower than about 1.0, more preferably less than about 0.5, especially be lower than about 0.1mlH 2The colorant that is preferred for here is a particle form.Colorant is introduced in the oil-continuous phase in this compositions.The integument that uses can pass through covalent bond, physical absorption or adhesive attraction, and preferably covalent bond is bonded to the colorant surface.Here the function of integument is hydrophobic modified to colorant, make it in the emulsion of polysiloxanes Bao Shui continuous silicone mutually in for " wettable ".Also can adopt occlusion pigment here from the angle that reduces hydrogen burst size and improvement product stability.
Do not wish bound by theory,, can enter oil phase by the emulsion interface from the hydrion of water although think that colorant is present in the oil phase of water-in-oil emulsion, there they can with the reaction of colorant integument, for example produce hydrogen.But, be lower than about 2mlH by using potential hydrogen content 2The colorant of the organosilicon parcel of/g occlusion pigment can reduce the hydrogen growing amount.
Here use the potential hydrogen content of following test determines occlusion pigment:
The occlusion pigment dispersion that will contain the colorant of 20g parcel places the flask of magnetic stirring, and the alcoholic solution of 100ml2% potassium hydroxide is at room temperature added, and stirs simultaneously.The hydrogen of emitting is collected in second flask of (25 ℃, 1 atmospheric pressure) under ambient temperature and the pressure.Can measure the hydrogen volume of release like this.
Many kinds of organosilicon components can be used for handling the colorant here.Here the poly-organopolysiloxane of Shi Yonging is selected from:
(A) material of following formula:
(R 1) 3SiO-(Si (R 2R 3) O) p-Si (R 2R 3) OA 2Wherein P is 1 to 1000, and is preferred 1 to 100, A 2Be hydrogen or C 1-C 30Alkyl, R 1Be C 1-C 30Alkyl, preferable methyl, R 2And R 3Be selected from C separately 1-C 30Alkyl and phenyl, preferably R wherein 2And R 3All be methyl, or R wherein 2Be methyl and R 3Be phenyl; Or
(B) material of following formula:
(R 1) 3SiO (Si (R 2) (H)-O) i-Si (R 1) 3Wherein i is 1 to 1000, and is preferred 1 to 100, wherein R 1And R 2Definition in the cotype (A).
In preferred embodiments, the organosilicon component is selected from silane.Silane can be selected from the material of following formula:
(C) A 1SiX 1X 2X 3Wherein A is C 1-C 30Alkyl or alkenyl, X 1, X 2And X 3C respectively does for oneself 1-C 4Alkoxyl, preferred methoxy or ethoxy, or halogen, preferred chlorine.
When the colorant here during, obtained the colorant of following formula (1) with the silane treatment of above-mentioned formula (C):
P-O-Si (OH) (A)-[O-Si (OH) (A)-] 0-100-OH wherein P is the atom on colorant surface, and each A is the alkyl or the alkenyl of 30 carbon atoms at the most.Except the polysiloxane chain that stretches out from the colorant surface, the polysiloxane chain shown in a large amount of adjacent formulas (1) can by oxygen atom crosslinked be formed up to many 100 repetitions-Si (OP)-the unitary polysiloxane chain of O-along the stretching, extension of colorant surface.The example of the alkyl of linearity or branching has methyl, ethyl, propyl group, butyl, amyl group, hexyl, heptyl, octyl group etc. until octadecyl." alkenyl " comprises the carbochain with one or more pair key; The example of this class group comprises the residue of vinyl, acrylic, acryloyl group, methyl propionyl acidic group and unsaturated fatty acid, as oleic acid residue (C 17-C 33-), linoleic acid residue (C 17-H 31)-and linolenic acid residue (C 17H 29-).
When the colorant is here handled with the poly-organopolysiloxane of formula (A), obtained the colorant of following formula (2):
P-O-(Si (R 2R 3) O) p-Si (R 1) 3(2) wherein P is 1-1000, and is preferred 1 to 100, R 1, R 2And R 3Suc as formula definition in (A), P is the atom on colorant surface.
When the colorant is here handled with the poly-organopolysiloxane of following formula (B), obtained the colorant of following formula (3):
(R 1) 3SiO-[Si (R 2) (OP)-O-] p-Si (R 1) 3(3) wherein each P is the atom on colorant surface, and p is 1 to 1000, and is preferred 1 to 100, R 1And R 2As definition in the following formula (B), wherein each at the most the unitary chain of 100 repetitions (Si-O) be connected to the colorant surface by oxygen atom.
By colorant (or mixture of two or more colorants) being become dry and finely divided form, and add organosilicon component and mixing in mixer, colorant is wrapped.Organosilicon integument preferred content be organosilicon occlusion pigment weight about 0.01% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 4%, especially about 0.5% to about 2%.
From reducing the angle of hydrogen burst size and raising product stability, most preferred occlusion pigment is Cardre 70429.
The total concentration of occlusion pigment can be composition total weight about 0.1 to about 25%, preferred about 1 to about 15%, more preferably from about 8% to about 12%, concrete concentration depends in a way and is used for foundation cream or kermes to reach the special color material mixture of required tone.Preferred compositions contains about 2% to about 20% heavy titanium dioxide, most preferably from about 5% to about 10% heavy titanium dioxide.
The highly preferred composition of the compositions here is wetting agent or wetting agent mixture.Wetting agent here or wetting agent mixture be about 30% with the heavy about 0.1%-of compositions, preferably about 1%-25%, the amount that is more preferably about 1%-about 10% exist.The wetting agent that is fit to is selected from glycerol and has 300 at 25 degrees centigrade, 000-1,100, the polymethyl acid glyceride lubricant of the combined water of the proportion of the viscosity of 000m centipoise, 1-1.2g/ml (25 degrees centigrade), pH, the 33-58% of 5.0-5.5 and the free water yield of 5-20%.
Wetting agent to small part can be sneaked in the oil phase of water-in-oil emulsion.Based on compositions, oil phase preferably contains has an appointment 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably 0.1% wetting agent to about 3% (weight).Wetting agent can add in the oil phase with the form with a kind of graininess oleophylic or hydrophobic carrier mixtures of material.
Polymethyl acid glyceride wetting agent with desired properties is that the trade mark that Guardian chemical company produces is the product of " Lubrajel "." Lubrajel " series products that is labeled as " LubrajelDV ", " LubrajelMS " and " Lubrajel CG " is that institute is preferred among the present invention.The gellant of selling with these trade marks contains 1% propylene glycol of having an appointment.
Other wetting agent that is fit to comprises sorbitol, panthenol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, hexanediol, oxyalkylated glucosan derivative, as Glucam (RTM) E-20, hexanetriol, glucose ether, and composition thereof.
The panthenol humidizer can be selected from D-panthenol ([R]-2; 4-dihydroxy-N-[3-hydroxypropyl)]-3,3-amide dimethyl butyrate), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, pantethine (panthetine), pantetheine, pantoyl benzyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyl lactose and vitamin B complex.
Here preferred humectants is a glycerol.The chemical name of glycerol is 1,2, the 3-glycerol, and it is a commercial product.
Here the compositions preferred ingredients is the polyol ester skin conditioning agent except organic amphiphilic surfactant.
Compositions of the present invention preferably comprises about 0.01% to about 20%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, especially preferred about 1% to about 10% heavy polyol ester.Level of polyol ester be preferably oil content weight in the compositions about 1% to about 30%, more preferably from about 5% to about 20%.
Here the preferred polyol ester that uses is the liquid or liquable polyol carboxylate of non-occlusive.This polyol ester is derived with one or more hydroxy-acid groups or part by a kind of polyhydric alcohol group or part.In other words, these esters comprise a part and an one or more part of being come by carboxylic acid derivatives of being come by polyol derivative.These carboxylates also can come from carboxylic acid derivatives.These carboxylates also can be described to liquid fat acid polyol resin, because for the expert of those technical fields, term carboxylic acid and fatty acid normally can exchange use.
The preferred liquid polyol polyester that uses contains certain polyhydric alcohol among the present invention, particularly by the sugar of at least four fatty acid group esterifications or sugar alcohol.Correspondingly, but the polyhydric alcohol raw material must have the hydroxyl of at least four esterifications.The example of preferred polyhydric alcohols is a sugar, comprises monosaccharide and disaccharidase and sugar alcohol.The example that contains the monosaccharide of four hydroxyls is xylose and arabinose, and the sugar alcohol that five hydroxyls are arranged of being derived and by xylose, i.e. xylitol.The monosaccharide erythrose is unsuitable for the present invention and uses, because it only contains 3 hydroxyls, but the sugar alcohol that contains four hydroxyls of deriving and from erythrose, promptly erithritol can use.The suitable monosaccharide that contains five hydroxyls is galactose, fructose and sorbose.The sugar alcohol that contains 6 hydroxyls from sucrose and glucose and sorbose hydrolyzate are derived and as sorbitol, also is well suited for.The example of available disaccharidase polyhydric alcohol comprises maltose, lactose and sucrose, and all these is the disaccharidase polyhydric alcohol that contains eight hydroxyls.
The polyhydric alcohol that is used for preparing the polyester that uses in the present invention preferably is selected from erithritol, xylitol, sorbitol, dextrose plus saccharose.Particularly preferably be sucrose.
Polyhydric alcohol raw material with at least four hydroxyls is to have at least four hydroxyls to be contained about 8 ester fat acid esterizations to about 22 carbon atoms.That the example of this class fatty acid comprises is sad, decanol, lauric acid, myristic acid, myristoleic acid, Palmic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, castor oil acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid.These fatty acids can be derived by natural or synthetic fatty acid, and they are saturable or undersaturated, comprise position isomer and geometric isomer.But for the preferred herein liquid polyester that uses is provided, the about at least 50% heavy fatty acid that adds in the polyester molecule should be undersaturated, and oleic acid, linoleic acid and composition thereof are particularly preferred.
The fatty polyol polyester that can use in the present invention must comprise at least four fatty acid ester group.Though all hydroxyls of polyhydric alcohol needn't be by fatty acid esterification, preferably polyester comprises and is no more than two nonesterified hydroxyls.Most preferably, all hydroxyls of polyhydric alcohol are all by fatty acid esterification, and promptly polyol moiety is esterified substantially fully.The fatty acid of esterification polyol molecule can be identical or blended, but as above-mentioned, have a considerable amount of unsaturated acids ester groups to exist to guarantee that this polyester is a liquid form.
For above-mentioned viewpoint is described, sucrose fat three esters are not suitable for this, because it does not contain four required fatty acid ester group.Sucrose-fatty four esters are fit to, but are not preferred, because it has the hydroxyl more than two esterification.Sucrose-fatty six esters are preferred, because it has no more than two nonesterified hydroxyl.All hydroxyls are comprised the substituted fatty acid octaester of liquid sucrose in the highly preferred molecule by fatty acid-esterified chemical compound.
Below be to be applicable to the non-limitative example that contains the concrete fatty polyol polyester of at least four fatty acid ester group of the present invention: four oleic acid glucose esters, the glucose tetra-ester of soy(a)-bean oil fatty acid (unsaturation), mannose four esters of mixed soy(a)-bean oil fatty acid, oleic galactose four esters, linoleic arabinose four esters, four linoleic acid xylose esters, five oleic acid gala sugar esters, four oleic acid sorbitol esters, sorbitol six esters of undersaturated soy(a)-bean oil fatty acid, the five oleic acid esters of xylitol, four oleic acid sucrose ester, five oleic acid sucrose ester, six oleic acid sucrose ester, seven oleic acid sucrose ester, eight oleic acid sucrose ester, and composition thereof.
As noted above, highly preferred polyol fatty acid ester be those wherein fatty acid contain the ester of about 14 to 18 carbon atoms.
Here the complete fusing point of preferred liquid polyol polyester is lower than about 30 ℃, preferably is lower than about 27.5 ℃, and more preferably is lower than about 25 ℃.Here Bao Dao complete fusing point is to be recorded by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).
Be fit to that the fatty polyol polyester can be by prepared in various methods as used herein, these methods are thoroughly cookedly to know to those experts in this technical field.These methods comprise: the transesterification of carrying out with polyhydric alcohol and fatty acid methyl ester, ethyl ester or the glyceride of various catalysts; The acylation that polyhydric alcohol and fatty acid acyl chlorides carry out; The acylation that polyhydric alcohol and fatty acid anhydride carry out; The acylation that polyhydric alcohol and fatty acid carry out itself.See and licensed to the U.S.P.No.2 of Jandacek, 831,854 on January 25th, 1977; With the U.S.P.No.4 that licensed to Jandacek on January 25th, 1977,005,196.
Cosmetic composition of the present invention also can contain crosslinked hydrophobic acrylate of a kind of graininess or methacrylate copolymer.This copolymer is used in particular for reducing light and the control oiliness helps to provide effective humidification benefit simultaneously.Crosslinked hydrophobic polymer is preferably copolymer point formation, and it has homodisperse and is trapped in the interior at least a active component of copolymer dot matrix.Alternative plan is that hydrophobic polymer can adopt porous particle shape, its surface area (N 2-BET) about 50 to 500m 2/ g, preferred 100 to 300m 2/ g scope and absorption active component is within it arranged.
Crosslinked hydrophobic polymer amount is for about 0.1% to about 10% (weight) during use, and preferably described polymer sneaked in the outer oil phase that contains polysiloxanes.One or more or its mixture in wetting agent, softening agent, humidizer and the sunscreen that active component can be the oil that is fit to skin, be fit to skin.Polymer masses is a powder-type, and described powder is particulate mixed system.The powder particle system forms dot matrix, and this dot matrix comprises the gathering groups of average diameter less than the aggregation and the fused aggregation system of average diameter in about 200 to 1200 micrometer ranges of about 1 micron unit grain, the fused unit grain of average diameter in about 20 to 100 micrometer ranges.
The powder material of the present invention that can be used as the carrier of active component can broadly be described as crosslinked " absorbing the back " hydrophobic polymer dot matrix.Preferably wrapped up and be dispersed with the active component of a kind of solid, liquid or gas form in this powder.Dot matrix is granule shape and constitutes free-pouring dispersed solids granule when the carrying active material.This dot matrix can contain the active material of scheduled volume.The polymer architecture formula is as follows: Wherein X is 80: 20 with the ratio of Y, and R ' is-CH 2CH 2-and R " be-(CH 2) 11CH 3
Suitable hydrophobic polymer used herein is highly cross-linked polymer, particularly highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer.(USA) make and sell with trade mark POLYTRAP (RTM) by Midland, close supporting root by Dow Corning Corporation for this material.It is that a kind of ultralight free-flow white lead is last and this granule can absorb a large amount of lipophile liquids and some water seeking liquid keeps the free flowing powder characteristic simultaneously.Mealy structure is made up of the dot matrix less than 1 micron unit grain, and described unit grain is melt into 20 to 100 microns aggregation and this aggregation loosely and is gathered into and is of a size of about 200 to about 1200 microns bulky grain or gathering groups.This polymer powder can contain nearly its heavy 4 times liquid, emulsion, dispersion or fused solid.
Can utilize a rustless steel mixing container and a spoon to realize that active substance is adsorbed onto on the polymer powder, wherein active substance be added in the powder and active substance is called in the polymer powder lightly with spoon.Low viscous liquid can be by adding this liquid in the sealable container that fills this polymer and this material that rolls is absorbed till reaching evenly.Also can use more complicated mixing apparatus such as ribbon blender or double cone mixer.The preferred active component that is applicable to this is a glycerol.The weight ratio of wetting agent and carrier is about 1: 4 to about 3: 1.
Microsponges 5647 also is suitable as highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer.Its adopts the spheric crosslinked hydrophobic polymer particle type that is generally, its aperture be 0.01 to about 0.05 μ m and surface area be 200-300m 2/ g.And it preferably is loaded with the wetting agent of above-mentioned amount.
Compositions of the present invention also can contain hydrophilic gellant, and described gelling dosage is preferably about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.02% to about 2%, and particularly 0.02% to about 0.5%.Gellant preferably has at least about 4000mPaS, more preferably at least about 10, and 000mPaS and particularly at least 50, the viscosity of 000mPaS (1% aqueous solution, 20 ℃, Brookfield RVT).
The hydrophilic gelling agent that is fit to generally can be described as water-soluble or the molten polymer of glue controlling the water circulation, and comprises cellulose ether (for example hydroxyethyl-cellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl emthylcellulose), polyvinyl alcohol, polyquaternium-10, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum and xanthan gum.
Acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate and the carboxy vinyl polymer sold with trade mark Carbopol resin by B.F.Goodrich company belong to suitable hydrophilic gelling agent.These resins mainly are made up of the water-soluble crosslinked acrylate copolymer of polyalkenyl polyethers of colloid, and described cross linked polymer is crosslinked as polyene propyl group sucrose or polyene propyl group tetramethylolmethane with the cross-linking agent of 0.75%-2.00%.Example comprises Carbopol 934, and Carbopol 940, and Carbopol 950, and Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981.Carbopol 934 is with the crosslinked acrylic acid water-soluble polymer of about 1% polyene propyl group sucrose ether, and described sucrose ether has on average about 5.8 pi-allyls of each sucrose molecule.Be applicable to this crosslinked acrylate copolymer that also has hydrophobically modified, described polymer has amphipathic, and (CTFA is by name: Acrylates/10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) sell with trade name Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 for it.The mixture of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer of acrylate copolymer that the polyalkenyl polyethers is crosslinked and hydrophobically modified is also applicable to this.Other is applicable to that this gellant is oily gellant, as trihydroxy stearin and hydroxy stearic acid magnalium.The gellant here is particularly conducive to provides the fabulous room temperature and the stability of intensification.
Preferably, the acidic-group that contains hydrophilic gelling agent is neutralized.The nertralizer that contains the acidic-group of the hydrophilic gelling agent here that is suitable for neutralizing comprises sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine.
The cosmetic composition here can contain softening agent in addition.The softening agent that is fit to compositions of the present invention comprises natural and synthetic oils, and described grease separation is from mineral oil, vegetable oil and animal oil, fat and cured, fatty acid ester, aliphatic alcohol, aklylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers and ester, fatty acid and composition thereof.
The softening agent that is applicable to this comprises C8-C50 unsaturated fatty acid and the ester thereof that for example nonessential hydroxyl replaces; the C1-C24 ester such as the isopropyl myristate of C8-C30 satisfied fatty acid; the hexadecylic acid cetyl ester; with dodecyl tetradecylic acid octyl group ester (Wickenol 142); Cera Flava; saturated and undersaturated aliphatic alcohol such as docosanol and hexadecanol; hydrocarbon such as mineral oil; oil and isotriacontane; fat Isosorbide Dinitrate (authorizing the United States Patent (USP) 3988255 of Seiden referring on October 26th, 1976); lanoline and lanolin derivative such as lanolin alcohol; ethoxylation; hydroxylated and acetylizad lanoline; cholesterol and derivant thereof, animal and plant triglyceride such as almond oil; Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen; wheat germ oil; Semen Lini oil; simmondsia oil; Apricot kernel oil; walnut oil; palm kernel oil; pistachio nut oil; Oleum sesami; rapeseed oil; cade oil; Semen Maydis oil; Semen Persicae oil; poppy seed oil; Oleum Pini; Oleum Ricini; Oleum Glycines; American Avocado Tree oil; safflower oil; Oleum Cocois; hazelnut oil; olive oil; Semen Vitis viniferae oil and sunflower seed oil; and the C1-C24 ester of dimeric dibasic acid and trimer acid such as dimeric dibasic acid diisopropyl ester; two different stearic malates; two different stearic dimeric dibasic acid esters and three different stearic trimerization acid esters.
Preferred softening agent is selected from hydro carbons such as 2-Methylpentadecane, mineral oil, vaseline and isotriacontane, lanolin alcohol and stearyl alcohol.These softening agents can use separately or use and about 1% amount to about 30% (weight) that can the compositions gross weight is present in the compositions of the present invention with form of mixtures, preferably with the about 5% amount existence to about 15% (weight).
Compositions also can contain other material on demand, as spice, sunscreen, preservative agent, electrolyte, as sodium chloride, protein, antioxidant, chelating agen and water-in-oil emulsifier.
The another kind of nonessential composition of cosmetic composition is one or more ultraviolet absorbers.The ultraviolet absorber that often is called sunscreen can exist based on the concentration of compositions gross weight about 1% to about 12% (weight).Ultraviolet absorber preferably accounts for about 2% to about 8% (weight).Ultraviolet absorber more preferably can about 4% concentration to about 6% (weight) be present in the compositions.Be applicable in this ultraviolet absorber preferred especially benzophenone-3, octyldimethyl PABA (Padimate O), Parsol MCX and composition thereof.
Here a kind of nonessential still preferred composition is one or more other chelating agen.Chelating agen is preferably to be present in the compositions based on compositions gross weight about 0.02% concentration to about 0.10% (weight).Chelating agen is preferably to exist based on the concentration of compositions gross weight about 0.03% to about 0.07% (weight).Can be comprised in one of chelating agen in the compositions is tetrasodium ethylenediamine tetraacetate.
The another kind of nonessential still preferred composition of cosmetic composition is one or more preservative agents.Based on the compositions gross weight, preservative agent concentration is about 0.05% to about 0.8% (weight) in the background color compositions, and preferred about 0.1% to about 0.3% (weight).The preservative agent that is applicable to this comprises sodium benzoate and propyl p-hydroxybenzoate and composition thereof.
Said composition preferably contains the 20%-that has an appointment oil phase about 95%, more preferably from about 30%-about 70% (weight) and about 5% to about 80%, more preferably from about 30% to about 70% heavy water.Water preferably contain water weight about 40% to about 90%, 60% to about 80% water more preferably from about.
Forms such as cosmetic composition of the present invention can foundation cream, kermes, covering agent, moulding powder are preferably with the form of foundation cream and covering agent.
Using method
The compositions here is used to regulate the skin appearance of oil and/or light.The compositions here is locally applied to certain pending zone of skin with effective dose.Term used herein " effective dose " refers to the amount of oil that enough adjustings define and/or bright skin appearance here.
Compositions can be used several days, a few week, several months or several years according to suitable interval.Said composition use preferred every day about 4 times to about three days once, more preferably about 2 times to approximately every other day 1 time of every day, especially be every day approximately 1 time.Typically, in using, the compositions of effective dose is locally applied on the skin, amount of application is about 0.01 to about 5mg compositions/cm at every turn 2Skin, more preferably about 1 to about 2mg compositions/cm 2Skin.
Usually be coated onto on the skin by the compositions of massaging lightly above-mentioned amount.
The invention further relates to and use a kind of extract of willow bark to regulate the skin appearance of mammiferous oil and/or light.Locally apply to pending skin area by described extract of willow bark and use extract of willow bark effective dose.Typically, the effective dose by the extract of willow bark of local application on pending skin is about 0.0004mg extract of willow bark/cm 2Skin is to about 0.8mg extract of willow bark/cm 2Skin, more preferably from about 0.004mg extract of willow bark/cm 2Skin is to about 0.4mg extract of willow bark/cm 2Skin especially is about 0.04mg extract of willow bark/cm 2Skin is to about 0.2mg extract of willow bark/cm 2Skin.
Following table is depicted as the embodiment of cosmetic composition of the present invention.
???????1 ??????2 ??????3 ??????4 ??????5 ??????6
Phase A ???(％,w/w) ??(％,w/w) ??(％,w/w) ??(％,w/w) ??(％,w/w) ??(％,w/w)
SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330 [DC2-1330] ?????15.75 ?????7.749 ?????7.59 ????16.75 ????5.25 ?????11.99
SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330/dimethicone polyol [90: 10 [DC3225C] ?????10.00 ?????15.00 ?????17.20 ????10.00 ????18.50 ?????10.00
?SEFA?Cottonate 1 ?????0.00 ?????0.00 ?????2.00 ?????0.00 ?????2.00 ?????4.00
Phase B
?Microsponge?5640 2 ?????0.00 ?????0.50 ?????0.75 ?????0.00 ?????0.50 ?????0.75
Muscovitum ?????0.10 ?????0.00 ?????0.00 ?????0.10 ?????0.10 ?????0.10
Titanium dioxide (Cardre 70429) 3 ?????8.25 ?????8.25 ?????8.25 ?????8.25 ?????8.25 ?????8.25
Zinc oxide ﹠ dimethicone ?????0.00 ?????0.00 ?????4.00 ?????4.00 ?????0.00 ?????4.00
Phase C
Dryflow 4 ?????0.00 ?????2.50 ?????0.00 ?????0.00 ?????0.00 ?????0.00
Phase D
Iron oxide yellow ?????2.10 ?????2.10 ?????2.00 ?????2.10 ?????2.10 ?????2.10
Iron oxide red ?????0.90 ?????0.90 ?????0.24 ?????0.90 ?????0.60 ?????0.90
Iron black ?????0.60 ?????0.60 ?????0.12 ?????0.60 ?????0.30 ?????0.60
SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330 [DC2-1330] ?????1.00 ?????1.00 ?????1.00 ?????1.00 ?????1.00 ?????1.00
Phase E
?Durachem 5 ?????0.00 ?????0.10 ?????0.00 ?????0.00 ?????0.00 ?????0.00
?Waxenol 6 ?????0.00 ?????0.00 ?????0.30 ?????0.00 ?????0.00 ?????0.00
Phase F
SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330 [DC2-1330] ?????1.00 ?????1.00 ?????1.00 ?????1.00 ?????1.00 ?????1.00
?Thixin?R 7 ?????0.30 ?????0.30 ?????0.30 ?????0.30 ?????0.30 ?????0.30
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate ?????0.00 ?????0.00 ?????0.25 ?????0.00 ?????0.00 ?????0.00
Phase G
Brassylic acid second diester ?????0.00 ?????0.00 ?????0.00 ?????0.00 ?????0.10 ?????0.00
Last table is continuous
The rose water concentrated solution ???0.00 ????0.001 ????0.00 ????0.00 ????0.00 ????0.01
Phase H
Ethanol ???4.00 ????4.00 ????0.00 ????4.00 ????4.00 ????4.00
Polyvinyl pyrrolidone [Luvisko K17] 8 ???1.00 ????1.00 ????1.00 ????1.00 ????1.00 ????1.00
Salicylic acid ????0.50 ????0.50 ????1.50 ????1.45 ????1.00 ????1.00
Dipropylene glycol ????0.00 ????0.00 ????0.00 ????0.00 ?????7.00 ????8.00
Glycerol ????6.00 ????6.00 ????6.00 ????6.00 ????6.00 ????6.00
?Carbowax400(PEG8) 9 ????0.00 ????0.00 ????0.00 ????0.00 ????3.00 ????0.00
Procetyl?AWS 10 ????3.00 ????3.00 ????3.00 ????3.00 ????0.00 ????0.00
Glycyrrhizic acid ????0.00 ????0.00 ????0.10 ????0.00 ????0.00 ????0.10
The phase I
Deionized water To 100
Na 4EDTA ????0.10 ????0.10 ????0.10 ????0.10 ????0.10 ????0.10
Sodium citrate ????0.30 ????0.30 ????0.30 ????0.30 ????0.30 ????0.30
Sodium chloride ????0.30 ????0.30 ????0.30 ????0.30 ????0.30 ????0.30
Citric acid ????1.00 ????1.00 ????0.00 ????0.00 ????0.50 ????0.00
Methyl parahydroxybenzoate ????0.00 ????0.00 ????0.20 ????0.00 ????0.00 ????0.00
Phase J
Zinc oxide ????0.00 ????0.00 ????0.42 ????0.42 ????0.00 ????0.28
Extract of willow bark 11 ????5.00 ????10.00 ????2.50 ????5.00 ????5.00 ????5.00
All: ????100 ????100 ????100 ????100 ????100 ????100
1. P﹠G supplies the supply of 2. Dow Corning Corporations, Avco House, Castle Street, Reading RG1 7DZ, the supply of UK3.Cardre company, 70 Tyler Pl., South Plainfield, NJ07090, the supply of USA4. Dow Corning Corporation, Avco House, Castle Street, Reading RG1 7DZ, UK5.Astor-Stag company provides, Tavistock Road, Wets Drayton, Middlesex UB77RA, UK6.Caschem company provides, 40 Avenue A, Bayonne, NJ07002, USA 7. trihydroxy tristerins, the Rheox supply, Barons Court, Manchester Road, Wilmslow, SK9 1BQ, UK8. BASF Corp's supply, Earl Road, Cheadle Hulme, Cheadle, Cheshire, the supply of SK86QB9. Union Carbide Corporation, 39 Old Ridgebury Road, the supply of Danbury10.Croda Chemicals company limited, Cowick Hall, Snaith, Goole, NorthHumberside, DN149AA11.Brooks Industries supply, 70 Tyler Place, South Plainfield, NJ 07090, USA
Be prepared as follows the prescription of routine I to VI.The various components of listing in the table have been divided into several groups.
The first step is mixed stir about 15 minutes until evenly by shear-mixed with each component of A phase.Mix by high speed shear, B phase material is added among the A gradually, and batch of material was mixed about 30 minutes.Add the C phase, about 15 minutes of the gained mixture of milling.
Add the D phase component then, and the gained mixture of milling is until disperseing fully.
In batch of material, add waxiness E phase then, under agitation batch of material is heated to 85 ℃, under agitation be cooled to 50 ℃ then until the wax fusing.In batch of material, add F phase pre-composition then, and homogenized 10 minutes.Stir down batch of material is cooled to room temperature.In batch of material, add the G phase, and batch of material was homogenized 10 minutes.
Be prepared as follows water.Mix the I phase component until dissolving.H mutually in each component except that ethanol under high speed shear, mix until dissolving.Cooling H phase also adds ethanol.Agitating solution is until clarification.With the phase I join H mutually in and mix, under agitation add phase J subsequently.
At last water is slowly added in the oil phase, under stirring at low speed, homogenize simultaneously.After all waters have added, to batch of material in addition about 5 minutes of high shear force to increase the viscosity of final products.
The cosmetic composition of gained can have been packed.
Cosmetic composition among the embodiment embodies the effect of effect of improved control oils and fats and facial skin appearance, and improved antibiotic and anti-inflammatory activity.

Claims (13)

1. the local cosmetic composition that is used for the water-in-oil emulsion form of skin, said composition comprises
(a) successive oil phase;
(b) discontinuous water; With
(c) extract of willow bark.
2. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 1, comprising about 0.1% to about 10% heavy extract of willow bark.
3. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 2, said composition comprises about 0.1% in addition to about 10%, is preferably about 0.1% to about 5% heavy acidic skin nursing active matter.
4. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein acidic skin nursing active matter is dissolved in aqueous phase.
5. according to the cosmetic composition in claim 3 or 4, wherein the acidic skin care active matter is selected from: salicylic acid, Azelaic Acid, tretinoin, lactic acid, glycolic, acetone acid and composition thereof.
6. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 3 to 5, wherein the acidic skin care active matter is a salicylic acid.
7. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 6, said composition also comprises about 0.1% to about 30%, preferred about 0.1% in addition to about 25%, more preferably from about 1% to about 15% heavy colorant.
8. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 7, said composition also comprises about 0.1% to about 10%, preferred about 0.1% in addition to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to the about 2% heavy solubilizing agent based on ketopyrrolidine.
9. cosmetic composition according to Claim 8, wherein the solubilizing agent based on ketopyrrolidine is a polyvinyl pyrrolidone.
10. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 9, said composition comprises about 0.01% to about 5% heavy citric acid or its salt in addition.
11. use according to each cosmetic composition of claim 1 to 10, wherein oil phase comprises the non-volatile polysiloxanes that accounts for oil phase heavily about 0.01% to about 25% and accounts for the Y 7175 of oil phase heavily about 75% to about 99.99%.
Regulate the application of the oil and/or the bright looking of mammal skin 12. use extract of willow bark.
13. use the application of regulating the oil and/or the bright looking of mammal skin according to each compositions in the claim 1 to 11.
CN97197025A 1996-06-27 1997-06-23 Cosmetic compositions Pending CN1227482A (en)

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GBGB9613524.9A GB9613524D0 (en) 1996-06-27 1996-06-27 Cosmetic composition
GB9619110.1 1996-09-12
GBGB9619110.1A GB9619110D0 (en) 1996-09-12 1996-09-12 Cosmetic compositions
GB9613524.9 1996-09-12

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JP3886117B2 (en) * 2002-05-16 2007-02-28 株式会社ノエビア Topical skin preparation
US7122174B2 (en) 2002-09-30 2006-10-17 L'oreal S.A. Compositions comprising at least one silicone compound and at least one amine compound, and methods for using the same
WO2004043580A1 (en) 2002-11-14 2004-05-27 K.U.Leuven Research & Development Method for preparing emulsions
US20080220068A1 (en) * 2006-07-31 2008-09-11 Laboratories Besins International Treatment and prevention of excessive scarring
KR101098581B1 (en) * 2009-01-09 2011-12-26 서울대학교산학협력단 Composition for Improving Inflammatory Disorder Using ABH Antigen
CN103269727B (en) * 2010-10-22 2017-03-29 阿吉莱克斯香料和香水公司 Water base air freshener composition, system and its using method
RU2689156C1 (en) * 2018-08-27 2019-05-24 Индивидуальный предприниматель Талагаева Елена Владимировна Active additive to perfume and cosmetic products
US20220401352A1 (en) * 2019-11-21 2022-12-22 Conopco, Inc., D/B/A Unilever A cosmetic composition

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