CN118178226B - Liquid crystal type emulsifier compound and application thereof in skin care product - Google Patents
Liquid crystal type emulsifier compound and application thereof in skin care product Download PDFInfo
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- CN118178226B CN118178226B CN202410618799.4A CN202410618799A CN118178226B CN 118178226 B CN118178226 B CN 118178226B CN 202410618799 A CN202410618799 A CN 202410618799A CN 118178226 B CN118178226 B CN 118178226B
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- liquid crystal
- emulsifier
- stearate
- propylene glycol
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- 239000004973 liquid crystal related substance Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 97
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 82
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 title abstract description 20
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- SZYSLWCAWVWFLT-UTGHZIEOSA-N [(2s,3s,4s,5r)-3,4-dihydroxy-5-(hydroxymethyl)-2-[(2r,3r,4s,5s,6r)-3,4,5-trihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-2-yl]oxyoxolan-2-yl]methyl octadecanoate Chemical compound O([C@@H]1[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1)O)[C@]1(COC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O SZYSLWCAWVWFLT-UTGHZIEOSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- DEKFZWMENCCOFU-LIKAHPKFSA-N 2-[(2r)-2-[(2r,3s,4r)-3,4-bis(2-hydroxyethoxy)oxolan-2-yl]-2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)ethoxy]ethyl octadecanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCCOC[C@@H](OCCO)[C@H]1OC[C@@H](OCCO)[C@@H]1OCCO DEKFZWMENCCOFU-LIKAHPKFSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- -1 fatty acid ester Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 51
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 38
- 229960004063 propylene glycol Drugs 0.000 claims description 21
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 20
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 19
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N propane-1,3-diol Chemical compound OCCCO YPFDHNVEDLHUCE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000000600 sorbitol Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N D-glucitol Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- ACCCMOQWYVYDOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexane-1,1-diol Chemical compound CCCCCC(O)O ACCCMOQWYVYDOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 125000000913 palmityl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 9
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- MTZQAGJQAFMTAQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzoic acid ethyl ester Natural products CCOC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 MTZQAGJQAFMTAQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- PKPOVTYZGGYDIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N dioctyl carbonate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCOC(=O)OCCCCCCCC PKPOVTYZGGYDIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N tricaprin Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-hexadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000008390 olive oil Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004006 olive oil Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000002552 dosage form Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- GHBFNMLVSPCDGN-UHFFFAOYSA-N caprylic acid monoglyceride Natural products CCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO GHBFNMLVSPCDGN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- RGUVUPQQFXCJFC-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-hydroxyoctanamide Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(=O)NO RGUVUPQQFXCJFC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N (+/-)-1,3-Butanediol Chemical compound CC(O)CCO PUPZLCDOIYMWBV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 abstract description 4
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 abstract description 2
- KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M Potassium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[K+] KWYUFKZDYYNOTN-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 27
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 23
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 16
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 11
- 230000000052 comparative effect Effects 0.000 description 11
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 11
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 11
- 235000013772 propylene glycol Nutrition 0.000 description 11
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 10
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 8
- 230000006641 stabilisation Effects 0.000 description 7
- 238000011105 stabilization Methods 0.000 description 7
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 6
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000002441 X-ray diffraction Methods 0.000 description 5
- 229930182470 glycoside Natural products 0.000 description 5
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-VKHMYHEASA-N (+)-propylene glycol Chemical compound C[C@H](O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-VKHMYHEASA-N 0.000 description 4
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-GSVOUGTGSA-N (R)-(-)-Propylene glycol Chemical compound C[C@@H](O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-GSVOUGTGSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229940035437 1,3-propanediol Drugs 0.000 description 4
- 230000001804 emulsifying effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000004519 grease Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 4
- 229920000166 polytrimethylene carbonate Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 238000010008 shearing Methods 0.000 description 4
- 229930006000 Sucrose Natural products 0.000 description 3
- 230000005856 abnormality Effects 0.000 description 3
- 238000013329 compounding Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000005720 sucrose Substances 0.000 description 3
- NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C=C NIXOWILDQLNWCW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nicotinamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 206010040880 Skin irritation Diseases 0.000 description 2
- 239000004480 active ingredient Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 230000000844 anti-bacterial effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- CDQSJQSWAWPGKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N butane-1,1-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)O CDQSJQSWAWPGKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000001514 detection method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000007599 discharging Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 description 2
- 150000008131 glucosides Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 229940075529 glyceryl stearate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 230000002535 lyotropic effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000007764 o/w emulsion Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000002335 preservative effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000035945 sensitivity Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000001953 sensory effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000000926 separation method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000036556 skin irritation Effects 0.000 description 2
- 231100000475 skin irritation Toxicity 0.000 description 2
- 238000013112 stability test Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- HBXWUCXDUUJDRB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-octadecoxyoctadecane Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC HBXWUCXDUUJDRB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene oxide Chemical compound C1CO1 IAYPIBMASNFSPL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 240000007817 Olea europaea Species 0.000 description 1
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- QNVSXXGDAPORNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Resveratrol Natural products OC1=CC=CC(C=CC=2C=C(O)C(O)=CC=2)=C1 QNVSXXGDAPORNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 208000028990 Skin injury Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000004974 Thermotropic liquid crystal Substances 0.000 description 1
- LUKBXSAWLPMMSZ-OWOJBTEDSA-N Trans-resveratrol Chemical compound C1=CC(O)=CC=C1\C=C\C1=CC(O)=CC(O)=C1 LUKBXSAWLPMMSZ-OWOJBTEDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000002159 abnormal effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000001335 aliphatic alkanes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000004458 analytical method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000002421 anti-septic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- RBQPFVFKBHOZPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzoic acid;octanoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1.CCCCCCCC(O)=O RBQPFVFKBHOZPM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940049638 carbomer homopolymer type c Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940043234 carbomer-940 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000008859 change Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003153 chemical reaction reagent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000084 colloidal system Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000008271 cosmetic emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000032798 delamination Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004945 emulsification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007613 environmental effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000002349 favourable effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229930182478 glucoside Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 150000002338 glycosides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000036571 hydration Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000006703 hydration reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000416 hydrocolloid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001771 impaired effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002085 irritant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 231100000021 irritant Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 150000004668 long chain fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000007774 longterm Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229960003966 nicotinamide Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000005152 nicotinamide Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011570 nicotinamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M octanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC([O-])=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 125000002801 octanoyl group Chemical group C(CCCCCCC)(=O)* 0.000 description 1
- 229940100460 peg-100 stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000003904 phospholipids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000003014 phosphoric acid esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000001737 promoting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011160 research Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940016667 resveratrol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000021283 resveratrol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000003696 stearoyl group Chemical group O=C([*])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 150000003445 sucroses Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0295—Liquid crystals
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
- A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
- A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Crystallography & Structural Chemistry (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a liquid crystal type emulsifier compound and application thereof in skin care products, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. A liquid crystalline emulsifier complex comprising the following components by total weight: (a) 15-50 parts of fatty acid ester emulsifier; (b) 5-50 parts of a polyol; (c) 3-45 parts of water; the fatty acid ester emulsifier is the mixture of sucrose stearate, glycerol stearate and PEG-60 sorbitan stearate. According to the invention, the sucrose stearate, the glycerol stearate and the PEG-60 sorbitan stearate are compounded, only a small amount of sucrose stearate is needed to be added, so that the liquid crystal type emulsifier compound containing sucrose stearate and the fatty acid esters as main emulsifiers is prepared, the stability is good, the limitation of a single emulsifier can be solved, the cost of the liquid crystal type emulsifier is high, the formed liquid crystals are few and uneven in size, and the cost can be greatly reduced due to the reduction of the adding amount of the sucrose stearate.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a liquid crystal type emulsifier compound and application thereof in skin care products.
Background
The liquid crystal phase is a morphology between solid and liquid with a highly ordered arrangement of molecular structures. Traditionally, thermotropic liquid crystals have been largely classified into two types, which play an important role in stabilization in pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. Lyotropic liquid crystals are formed from amphiphilic molecules and a solvent in a range of concentrations. The emulsifier containing liquid crystallinity has both liquid crystal phase structure and emulsifying performance, and can form stable emulsion between water and oil.
According to the liquid crystal chemistry, colloid and surfactant chemistry theory, emulsion systems may form liquid crystals as long as they form a dense, ordered viscoelastic interfacial film at the oil/water interface. The formation of an interfacial film is primarily dependent upon the emulsifier or emulsifier pair selected, with lyotropic liquid crystals formed by mixing the surfactant with water (and sometimes some organics and salts as well) being the most common. The liquid crystal can form hexagonal, cubic, lamellar and other structures by being influenced by the critical stacking parameters of surface activity, hydrophilic-lipophilic balance and interfacial curvature. The lamellar liquid crystal has a structure similar to that of the stratum corneum of human skin, and when applied to the surface of a human body, corresponds to the formation of "second skin" of the human body (Kim et al, 2019). In cosmetic emulsions, droplets can be hindered from agglomerating due to collisions with each other, thereby improving stability; can maintain moisture, prolong hydration and closure, and has high-efficiency moisturizing effect; the multi-layer structure can control the slow release of active ingredients and can also play a role in reducing skin injury caused by irritant substances such as sunscreens and the like; the layers can easily slide mutually, so that the fluidity of the cosmetics can be improved; at the same time, the skin care cream has the advantages of both oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions, and can provide fresh and natural excellent skin feel. Therefore, the lamellar liquid crystal emulsifier has good application prospect. Each liquid crystal type emulsifier is affected by the formulation and preparation process and has limited use. Lamellar liquid crystal emulsifiers also have corresponding problems such as sensitivity to environmental factors (e.g. temperature, pH), limited solubility, use only in a certain range, high cost, and high requirements on production processes and equipment.
Emulsifying agents which form liquid crystals in the market include sucrose esters, glucosides, egg phospholipids, olive esters, phosphate esters, stearoyl groups and the like. At present, the domestic research on lamellar liquid crystal mainly uses sucrose ester and alkyl glycoside emulsifying agent. Among these, alkyl glycoside emulsifiers are receiving much attention because they do not contain ethylene oxide and di alkane, and they have excellent skin feel and skin affinity. However, alkyl glycosides have low emulsifying capacity and are generally compounded with anionic or nonionic emulsifiers with high HLB values; secondly, the color change is larger, especially the glycoside variety with high content; finally, the high temperature time during emulsification cannot be too long, otherwise, the glucoside structure is easily damaged. Therefore, the liquid crystal structure produced by the method is greatly influenced by the formula and the preparation process, and the formation condition of the liquid crystal becomes uncontrollable, so that the formed liquid crystal is possibly less and uneven in size. Compared with the prior art, the sucrose ester emulsifier has better stability, but is more expensive than the alkyl glycoside emulsifier, and the compound containing the sucrose ester needs to be developed, so that the purpose of reducing the cost is achieved.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the limitations of the single emulsifier and the problems of high cost, less formed liquid crystal and uneven size of the liquid crystal type emulsifier. The primary object of the present invention is to provide a liquid-crystalline emulsifier complex comprising fatty acid esters including sucrose stearate as a main emulsifier, which can be used for preparing a skin care product containing lamellar liquid crystals.
The invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
a liquid crystalline emulsifier complex comprising the following components by total weight:
(a) 15-50 parts of fatty acid ester emulsifier
(B) 5-50 parts of polyol
(C) 3-45 parts of water;
the fatty acid ester emulsifier is prepared by mixing sucrose stearate, glycerol stearate and PEG-60 sorbitan stearate, wherein the mass ratio of the sucrose stearate, the glycerol stearate and the PEG-60 sorbitan stearate is (4-15): (10-25): (1-10).
Sucrose stearate can be used for oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsion, and has antibacterial activity, and can reduce total amount of antiseptic, thereby reducing skin irritation of skin care product. The liquid crystal emulsifier is prepared by compounding with other components, so that the cost can be reduced.
The glycerol stearate can be used for preparing W/O type and O/W type emulsifying agents. The emulsion capability is strong, a large amount of grease can be emulsified, the emulsion has higher safety, the prepared paste is not moist enough in constitution, if the amount of the oil is increased, the grease is easy to get greasy but not oily, and for high-content silicone oil or vegetable oil, the formula can be stabilized by increasing the dosage of the emulsifier, so that the glycerol stearate compound sucrose stearate and the PEG-60 sorbitan stearate are added into the liquid crystal emulsifier compound formula system as fatty acid ester type emulsifier, the dosage of the emulsifier does not need to be increased, the emulsion capability and the emulsion stability can be improved only by adding the conventional dosage, and the problem that the glycerol stearate is greasy but not oily can be reduced by compounding the sucrose stearate and the PEG-60 sorbitan stearate, so that the paste moisture degree is improved.
PEG-60 sorbitan stearate is mainly used as an emulsifier and a thickener, and can also be used for preparing liquid crystal, and the PEG-60 sorbitan stearate in a double-layer structure is in an ordered gel state at room temperature. PEG-60 sorbitan stearate and sucrose stearate are mixed, have good viscoelasticity, and can form lamellar gel network liquid crystal. However, the addition of PEG-60 sorbitan stearate, while increasing the vesicle size, allows the lamellar liquid crystal structure to be progressively clearer and more pronounced, slightly reduces the permeability of the formulation. According to the invention, the glycerol stearate, the PEG-60 sorbitan stearate and the sucrose stearate are compounded, so that the permeability of the formula can be improved.
The invention combines three fatty acid ester emulsifying agents, which can promote the formation of lamellar liquid crystal and reduce the cost. The mass ratio of sucrose stearate, glycerol stearate and PEG-60 sorbitan stearate was set to (4-15): (10-25): when the amount exceeds this range, (1-10) liquid crystal emulsified particles cannot be formed or long-term stability is impaired.
Further, the polyol is at least one of propylene glycol, sorbitol and butanediol.
Further, the weight of the polyol is 14-37 parts.
Further, the polyol is a mixture of propylene glycol and sorbitol, and the mass ratio of the propylene glycol to the sorbitol is (4-12): (10-25).
Further, the propylene glycol is a mixture of 1, 3-propylene glycol and 1, 2-propylene glycol, and the mass ratio of the 1, 3-propylene glycol to the 1, 2-propylene glycol is 1: (3-11).
By compounding propylene glycol with sorbitol, better skin softness and smoothness can be provided.
The invention also provides application of the liquid crystal emulsifier compound in preparing skin care products, and the skin care product dosage forms comprise cream and emulsion.
The invention also provides a liquid crystal emulsion, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
1-10% of the liquid-crystalline emulsifier complex as described above,
8-13% Of glycerol,
0.13 To 0.17 percent of carbowave 940,
1-4% Of hexadecyl/octadecyl alcohol,
7-12% Of olive oil,
KOH 0.03-0.07%，
BS-1883 0.3-0.6%，
0.3 To 0.6 percent of hexanediol,
The balance of water.
The invention also provides liquid crystal type cream which comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
1-10% of the liquid-crystalline emulsifier complex as described above,
7-11% Of glycerol,
0.13 To 0.16 percent of carbowave 940,
2 To 5 percent of hexadecyl/stearyl alcohol,
4.1 To 4.6 percent of dioctyl carbonate,
0.4 To 0.7 percent of C12-15 alcohol benzoate,
3-7% Of caprylic/capric triglyceride,
KOH 0.03-0.06%，
BS-1883 0.3-0.6%，
0.4 To 0.6 percent of hexanediol,
The balance of water.
The grease influences the formation of liquid crystals, the quantity of the liquid crystals can be increased along with the increase of the total quantity of the grease to a certain extent, and the formation of the liquid crystals is facilitated by adding olive oil or dioctyl carbonate, C12-15 alcohol benzoate caprylic acid and capric triglyceride into a formula system. Both glycerol and higher alcohols facilitate liquid crystal formation, especially when glycerol is used in greater amounts than higher alcohols. Therefore, the addition amount of glycerin in the liquid crystal emulsion and the liquid crystal cream is higher than that of higher alcohol-sixteen/octadecyl alcohol, and the liquid crystal emulsion and the liquid crystal cream are more favorable for forming liquid crystals. Meanwhile, a certain amount of hydrocolloid such as carbopol 940 is added into the formula, so that the stability of the system can be improved, the formation of a liquid crystal network structure of the system is facilitated, and the sensitivity of liquid crystal to temperature is reduced. Compared with common emulsion and cream, the liquid crystal emulsion and the liquid crystal cream have excellent moisturizing ability and can absorb skin active ingredients to the skin well.
The liquid crystal emulsifier compound and the application thereof in skin care products have the following beneficial effects:
According to the invention, the sucrose stearate, the glycerol stearate and the PEG-60 sorbitan stearate are compounded, only a small amount of sucrose stearate is needed to be added, so that the liquid crystal type emulsifier compound containing fatty acid esters including sucrose stearate as a main emulsifier is prepared, the stability is good, the limitation of a single emulsifier can be solved, the cost of the liquid crystal type emulsifier is high, the formed liquid crystals are less and the size is uneven, and the cost can be greatly reduced due to the reduction of the adding amount of sucrose stearate; the sucrose stearate has antibacterial activity, so that the addition amount of the preservative can be reduced in the application of the sucrose stearate in the preparation of skin care products, and the skin irritation of the skin care products is further reduced; and then the polyol consisting of propylene glycol and sorbitol is compounded, so that the emulsifying capacity is high, the produced liquid crystal structure is less influenced by a formula and a preparation process, the condition of liquid crystal formation is controllable, and the formed liquid crystal is more and uniform in size.
The liquid crystal type emulsifier compound provided by the invention adopts the technical scheme that common high-safety raw materials are matched with long-chain fatty acid and/or alcohol and polymer, so that lamellar liquid crystal can be well prepared.
The skin care product provided by the invention is simple in preparation method, and the lamellar liquid crystal structure with a large number, uniform size and good stability can be obtained by only adding the liquid crystal type emulsifier compound into an oil phase or a water phase according to the conventional preparation method of the oil-in-water emulsion.
The liquid crystal emulsion and the liquid crystal cream of the invention can promote the formation of lamellar liquid crystals, have velvet-like soft and light touch feeling, moisten but not greasy skin feel, absorb contained skin functional components into skin, and have excellent moisturizing effect and skin improving effect.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is an X-ray diffraction pattern of the liquid crystal type emulsifier complex of example 3 after shearing for 0 hours.
FIG. 2 is an X-ray diffraction pattern of the liquid crystal type emulsifier complex of example 3 after shearing for 12 hours.
FIG. 3 is an X-ray diffraction pattern of the liquid crystal type emulsifier complex of example 3 after shearing for 24 hours.
FIG. 4 is an image of the structure of an X-ray diffraction liquid crystal after shearing the liquid crystal type emulsifier complex of example 3 for 24 hours.
Fig. 5 is a polarized light microscopic image of the liquid crystal type emulsion prepared in example 5.
Fig. 6 is a polarized light microscopic image of the liquid crystal type cream prepared in example 10.
FIG. 7 is an analytical report of the measurement of the cream prepared in example 9 by using a ZML310 type external preparation particle size analyzer.
Fig. 8 is an enlarged view at a in fig. 7.
Detailed Description
In order to make the technical solution of the present invention better understood by those skilled in the art, the following further details of the present invention will be described with reference to examples and drawings.
The reagents used in the examples were all commercially available unless otherwise specified. BS-1883 in the examples is a preservative substitute (propylene glycol/octanoyl hydroxamate/glycerol octanoate) sold by zhongshan bofuku chemical company. KOH is potassium hydroxide.
Example 1
The liquid crystal type emulsifier compound consists of the following components in parts by weight: 15 parts of sucrose stearate, 10 parts of glycerol stearate, 10 parts of PEG-60 sorbitan stearate, 1 part of 1, 3-propanediol, 11 parts of 1, 2-propanediol, 10 parts of sorbitol and 45 parts of water.
Example 2
The liquid crystal type emulsifier compound consists of the following components in parts by weight: 4 parts of sucrose stearate, 25 parts of glycerol stearate, 1 part of PEG-60 sorbitan stearate, 1 part of 1, 3-propanediol, 3 parts of 1, 2-propanediol, 25 parts of sorbitol and 3 parts of water.
Example 3
The liquid crystal type emulsifier compound consists of the following components in parts by weight: 9 parts of sucrose stearate, 18 parts of glycerol stearate, 6 parts of PEG-60 sorbitan stearate, 1 part of 1, 3-propanediol, 8 parts of 1, 2-propanediol, 20 parts of sorbitol and 30 parts of water.
Example 4
The liquid crystal type emulsifier compound consists of the following components in parts by weight: 4 parts of sucrose stearate, 25 parts of glycerol stearate, 1 part of PEG-60 sorbitan stearate, 1 part of 1, 3-propanediol, 11 parts of 1, 2-propanediol, 25 parts of sorbitol, 13 parts of butanediol and 20 parts of water.
Examples 5 to 7
A liquid crystal emulsion, which consists of the following raw materials shown in table 1:
table 1 examples 5 to 7
| Component (wt.%) | Example 5 | Example 6 | Example 7 |
| Glycerol | 10 | 8 | 13 |
| Clip wave 940 | 0.15 | 0.17 | 0.13 |
| EXAMPLE 3 liquid crystalline emulsifier composite | 5 | 1 | 10 |
| Hexadecyl/octadecanol | 3 | 1 | 4 |
| Olive oil | 10 | 12 | 7 |
| KOH | 0.05 | 0.03 | 0.07 |
| BS-1883 | 0.5 | 0.3 | 0.6 |
| Hexanediol (Hexadiol) | 0.5 | 0.6 | 0.3 |
| Water and its preparation method | Allowance of | Allowance of | Allowance of |
The preparation method of examples 5-7 above is as follows:
(1) Preparation of example 3 liquid crystalline emulsifier complex;
(2) Mixing water, glycerol, and carbomer 940 with the liquid crystal emulsifier compound of example 3, dispersing uniformly, and heating to 70-85deg.C to obtain water phase;
(3) Adding hexadecyl/octadecanol and oleum Olivarum into oil phase pot, mixing, dispersing uniformly, and heating to 70-85deg.C to obtain oil phase;
(4) Adding the oil phase raw material into the water phase under stirring at 70 ℃, and starting homogenizing and emulsifying for 3-5 minutes;
(5) Stirring and cooling to 60 ℃, and adding KOH;
(6) Stirring and cooling to 45 ℃, and adding BS-1883 and hexanediol;
(7) Stirring and cooling to room temperature, checking to be qualified, and discharging.
Examples 8 to 11
A liquid crystal type cream, which consists of the following raw materials shown in table 2:
TABLE 2 EXAMPLES 8 to 11
| Component (wt.%) | Example 8 | Example 9 | Example 10 | Example 11 |
| Glycerol | 11 | 7 | 10 | 10 |
| Clip wave 940 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.15 | 0.15 |
| Hexadecyl/octadecanol | 2 | 5 | 3 | 3 |
| Dioctyl carbonate | 4.4 | 4.4 | 4.4 | 4.4 |
| C12-15 alcohol benzoate | 0.6 | 0.6 | 0.6 | 0.6 |
| Caprylic/capric triglyceride | 4.6 | 4.1 | 5 | 5 |
| EXAMPLE 3 liquid crystalline emulsifier composite | 1 | 5 | 2 | 10 |
| KOH | 0.03 | 0.06 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Nicotinamide | 0 | 1.8 | 0 | 0 |
| Resveratrol | 0 | 0.6 | 0 | 0 |
| BS-1883 | 0.6 | 0.3 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| Hexanediol (Hexadiol) | 0.4 | 0.6 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| Water and its preparation method | Allowance of | Allowance of | Allowance of | Allowance of |
The preparation method of examples 8-11 above is as follows:
(1) Preparation of example 3 liquid crystalline emulsifier complex;
(2) Mixing water, glycerol, and carbopol 940, dispersing, and heating to 70-85deg.C to obtain water phase;
(3) Adding hexadecyl/octadecyl alcohol, dioctyl carbonate, C12-15 alcohol benzoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride and the liquid crystal emulsifier compound of example 3 into an oil phase pot, mixing, dispersing uniformly, and heating to 70-85 ℃ to obtain an oil phase;
(4) Adding the oil phase raw material into the water phase under stirring, and starting to homogenize for 3-5 minutes;
(5) Stirring and cooling to 60 ℃, and adding KOH;
(6) Stirring and cooling to 45 ℃, and adding BS-1883 and hexanediol;
(7) Stirring and cooling to room temperature, checking to be qualified, and discharging.
Comparative examples 1 to 3
A liquid crystal type cream, which consists of the following raw materials shown in table 3:
Table 3 comparative examples 1-3
| Component (wt.%) | Comparative example 1 | Comparative example 2 | Comparative example 3 |
| Glycerol | 10 | 10 | 10 |
| Clip wave 940 | 0.15 | 0.15 | 0.15 |
| Hexadecyl/octadecanol | 3 | 3 | 3 |
| Dioctyl carbonate | 4.4 | 4.4 | 4.4 |
| C12-15 alcohol benzoate | 0.6 | 0.6 | 0.6 |
| Caprylic/capric triglyceride | 5 | 5 | 5 |
| SIMULSOL 165 | 2 | 0 | 0 |
| Emulsifier 1510 | 0 | 2 | 0 |
| Brij 721 | 0 | 0 | 2 |
| KOH | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| BS-1883 | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| Hexanediol (Hexadiol) | 0.5 | 0.5 | 0.5 |
| Water and its preparation method | Allowance of | Allowance of | Allowance of |
The preparation methods of comparative examples 1 to 3 were the same as those of examples 8 to 11.
Comparative examples 1-3 differ from example 10 in that no liquid crystalline emulsifier complex was added, but instead equal amounts of the other emulsifiers of different types, SIMULSOL 165 (glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate), emulsifier 1510 (glyceryl stearate, sucrose stearate) and Brij 721 (polyoxyethylene (21) stearyl ether) were added, respectively.
The following tests were carried out on examples 5 to 7, examples 8 to 11 and comparative examples 1 to 3:
Stability test, results are shown in table 4:
sensory testing: visually observing whether the sample character is abnormal;
heat resistance test: placing the sample into a 40 ℃ incubator for reaction 24h, recovering to normal temperature, observing whether oil-water separation exists or not, and observing whether the consistency is changed or not to judge the heat resistance of the sample;
cold resistance test: placing the sample in a refrigerator for reaction at (-5 ℃ to-15 ℃) for 24h ℃, recovering to normal temperature, observing whether oil-water separation exists or not, and observing whether the consistency is changed or not to judge the heat resistance of the sample;
Centrifugal experiment: the sample was placed in a centrifuge, centrifuged at 3000 r/min for 30: 30 min, and the sample was observed for delamination.
(II) liquid Crystal emulsifier flow deformation detection
The liquid crystalline emulsifier complex of example 3 was analyzed using an X-ray diffraction test. Flow set for shear 0, 12 and 24 hours is shown in particular in FIGS. 1-3.
(III) detection of crystalline phase Structure of liquid Crystal emulsifier
The liquid crystal type emulsifier complex of example 3 was analyzed using a polarized light microscope. The liquid crystal structure sheared for 24 hours is shown in figure 4.
In order to demonstrate the liquid crystal structure formed in the above examples, the following tests were performed:
The liquid crystal structures of the samples prepared in examples 5 to 7, examples 8 to 11 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were observed using a polarizing microscope, and the results are shown in Table 5. Samples of example 5 and example 10 with liquid crystal emulsifier added have the structures shown in figures 5-6. The cream prepared in example 9 was tested by using a ZML310 external preparation particle size analyzer, and the analysis report is shown in fig. 7 to 8.
Table 4 stability test results
| Project | Examples 5 to 7 | Examples 8 to 11 | Comparative examples 1 to 3 |
| Sensory index | No abnormality | No abnormality | No abnormality |
| Heat stability | Stabilization | Stabilization | Layering |
| Cold-resistant stability | Stabilization | Stabilization | Layering |
| Centrifugal stability | Stabilization | Stabilization | Layering |
TABLE 5 liquid crystal structure
| Project | Examples 5 to 7 | Examples 8 to 11 | Comparative examples 1 to 3 |
| Liquid crystal structure | Clearly see | Clearly see | No observation was made |
In summary, the present invention provides a liquid crystal emulsifier compound for promoting the formation of lamellar liquid crystal and preparing liquid crystal emulsion.
The foregoing examples are merely exemplary embodiments of the present invention, which are described in more detail and are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that modifications and improvements can be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of the invention, and that these obvious alternatives fall within the scope of the invention.
Claims (8)
1. A liquid crystalline emulsifier complex comprising the following components in total by weight:
(a) 15-50 parts of fatty acid ester emulsifier;
(b) 5-50 parts of polyol;
(c) 3-45 parts of water;
The fatty acid ester emulsifier is prepared by mixing sucrose stearate, glycerol stearate and PEG-60 sorbitan stearate, wherein the mass ratio of the sucrose stearate, the glycerol stearate and the PEG-60 sorbitan stearate is (4-15): (10-25): (1-10).
2. The liquid crystal emulsifier complex of claim 1 wherein the polyol is at least one of propylene glycol, sorbitol, and butylene glycol.
3. The liquid crystal emulsifier complex according to claim 2, wherein the polyol is 14-37 parts by weight.
4. A liquid crystal emulsifier complex according to claim 3, wherein the polyol is a mixture of propylene glycol and sorbitol, the mass ratio of propylene glycol to sorbitol being (4-12): (10-25).
5. The liquid crystal emulsifier complex of claim 4 wherein the propylene glycol is a mixture of 1, 3-propylene glycol and 1, 2-propylene glycol, the mass ratio of 1, 3-propylene glycol to 1, 2-propylene glycol being 1: (3-11).
6. Use of a liquid crystalline emulsifier complex according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in the manufacture of a skin care product, wherein the skin care product dosage form comprises a cream, an emulsion.
7. The liquid crystal emulsion is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
a liquid-crystalline emulsifier complex according to claim 1 to 5,
8-13% Of glycerol,
0.13 To 0.17 percent of carbowave 940,
1-4% Of hexadecyl/octadecyl alcohol,
7-12% Of olive oil,
KOH 0.03-0.07%，
Propylene glycol/octanoyl hydroxamic acid/glycerol caprylate 0.3-0.6%,
0.3 To 0.6 percent of hexanediol,
The balance of water.
8. The liquid crystal type cream is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass:
a liquid-crystalline emulsifier complex according to claim 1 to 5,
7-11% Of glycerol,
0.13 To 0.16 percent of carbowave 940,
2 To 5 percent of hexadecyl/stearyl alcohol,
4.1 To 4.6 percent of dioctyl carbonate,
0.4 To 0.7 percent of C12-15 alcohol benzoate,
3-7% Of caprylic/capric triglyceride,
KOH 0.03-0.06%，
Propylene glycol/octanoyl hydroxamic acid/glycerol caprylate 0.3-0.6%,
0.4 To 0.6 percent of hexanediol,
The balance of water.
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