CN114392199A - Hair conditioner without silicone oil and cations and having scalp care function and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Hair conditioner without silicone oil and cations and having scalp care function and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN114392199A
CN114392199A CN202210107492.9A CN202210107492A CN114392199A CN 114392199 A CN114392199 A CN 114392199A CN 202210107492 A CN202210107492 A CN 202210107492A CN 114392199 A CN114392199 A CN 114392199A
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oil
hair conditioner
hair
alcohol
liquid crystal
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CN114392199B (en
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赵文忠
李娜
林学镁
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Lafang China Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/066Multiple emulsions, e.g. water-in-oil-in-water
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34Free of silicones

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Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of daily chemicals, in particular relates to a hair conditioner which does not contain silicone oil and cations and has a scalp care function, and also relates to a preparation method of the hair conditioner. Besides essence and preservative, the invention also comprises (1) grease which is liquid at room temperature and accounts for 2-10% of the weight of the hair conditioner, (2) nonionic emulsifier which accounts for 2-8% of the weight of the hair conditioner, and (3) polyalcohol which accounts for 1-10% of the weight of the hair conditioner. The hair conditioner has better dry and wet hair conditioning effects than common hair conditioners, does not need to add cationic polymers and silicone oil, and has the advantages of simple raw material source, low cost and mild property.

Description

Hair conditioner without silicone oil and cations and having scalp care function and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of daily chemicals, in particular to a hair conditioner without silicone oil and cationic polymer, and also relates to a preparation method of the hair conditioner.
Background
Cosmetic emulsification techniques generally refer to liquid to semisolid emulsion technology systems of rheological significance such as, oil-in-water O/W emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions W/O, water-in-water emulsions W/W, oil-in-oil emulsions O/O; other special structure emulsion such as multi-layer emulsion W/O/W, O/W/O, liquid crystal emulsion O/LC/W, etc. And the basic control of the particle size can be realized technically.
Cosmetic products, whether they are skin and hair care systems, are largely different from the above systems. Most of emulsification technologies related to hair conditioners, hair membranes, hair lotions and the like in hair care products belong to oil-in-water O/W emulsion systems, and the oil-in-water O/W emulsion systems comprise O/W emulsion systems with liquid crystal structures (LC structures for short) and O/W emulsion systems without the liquid crystal structures.
The technical formulas of the hair care products on the market such as common hair conditioners belong to O/W emulsion systems mostly, the technical formulas comprise cationic surfactants such as quaternary ammonium salts 1631, 1831 and 2231, the cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium salts are used as an emulsifier and a hair conditioner in the hair conditioner formula respectively, and the hair conditioner formula also comprises dimethyl silicone oil and amino silicone oil conditioners. The hair conditioner containing the quaternary ammonium salt cationic surfactant can observe a liquid crystal structure under a polarized light microscope generally, but the liquid crystal arrangement is not dense enough, so that the hair conditioner is not effective for reducing hair friction. In addition, conditioners containing quaternary cationic surfactants are generally not mild enough, and quaternary cationic surfactants (e.g., 1631, 1831, 2231) are limited cosmetic materials and are generally not recommended for massaging or contacting the scalp when using conditioner products.
Disclosure of Invention
An object of the present invention is to provide a hair conditioner which is less abrasive to the hair and more lubricious when used, whether after rinsing or drying wet hair, and which is mild in the system, does not contain any cationic surfactant and silicone oil conditioner, and can be used as both a hair conditioner and a leave-on hair conditioner.
The invention also relates to a preparation method of the hair conditioner.
A hair conditioner with scalp care function without silicone oil and cation is characterized in that; except essence and preservative, the preservative comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
(1) the grease is liquid grease at room temperature and contains 2-10 wt%, wherein the grease is a mixture of nonpolar grease and polar grease according to the weight ratio of 1: 2 to 2: 1, wherein the nonpolar oil is mineral oil, the polar oil is vegetable oil, and the vegetable oil is natural vegetable oil with the oleic acid (C18:1) content of more than or equal to 50 percent and is selected from any one of macadamia nut oil, Bridgy fruit oil, sweet almond oil, olive fruit oil and avocado oil;
(2) contains 2-8 wt% of nonionic emulsifier, wherein the nonionic emulsifier is composed of fatty alcohol, stearic acid monoglyceride and cetylstearyl glucoside, and the content of monoester in stearic acid monoglyceride is 35-99%; the weight ratio of fatty alcohol, stearic acid monoglyceride and cetearyl glucoside in the nonionic emulsifier is 2: 1: 1, and the fatty alcohol is a C12 alcohol, a C14 alcohol, a C16 alcohol, and a C18 alcohol in a weight ratio of 1: 1: 1: 1 of the components in the ratio of (1),
(3) contains 1-10% of polyhydric alcohol by weight, wherein the polyhydric alcohol is any one of glycerol, propylene glycol and 1, 3-propylene glycol, and the glycerol is preferred in the invention;
(4) the balance of deionized water.
The invention relates to a hair conditioner without silicone oil and cation and with a scalp care function, which comprises the following production processes:
a) preparing liquid crystal oil-in-liquid (O/LC), heating a nonionic emulsifier to 75 ℃, adding water with the temperature of 75 ℃ while stirring (the adding amount of the water is equivalent to the weight of 1/10-1/2 nonionic emulsifier), continuously stirring, adding liquid grease while stirring to form uniform liquid crystal emulsion (liquid crystal oil-in-liquid emulsion (O/LC), wherein the particle size range of the liquid crystal structure is that PS is more than or equal to 5um and less than or equal to 25um, the temperature is kept at 40-45 ℃,
b) adding the oil-in-liquid emulsion O/LC of the a) into the rest deionized water, stirring at a low speed, and slowly cooling to 38 ℃ to form the oil-in-liquid-in-water O/LC/W emulsion.
The invention has the advantages of
The hair conditioner disclosed by the invention is of an O/LC/W structure of an oil-in-water liquid crystal emulsion, has better dry and wet hair conditioning effects than the common hair conditioner on the premise of not containing a quaternary ammonium salt type cationic conditioner and silicone oil used in the formula of the common hair conditioner, does not need to add a cationic polymer and silicone oil, and is simple in raw material source, low in cost and mild.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is an image of hair conditioner emulsion liquid crystal structure observed by microscope 4X objective.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples.
The characteristics and the cautions of the components selected by the invention are described and explained in detail.
The non-ionic emulsifier is selected from an amphiphilic structure with an HLB value ranging from 2 to 13 and can also contribute to forming a seed crystal, namely a fatty alcohol liquid crystal structure with particles of a certain size, the non-ionic emulsifier selected in the invention is composed of fatty alcohol (HLB 1-3), stearic acid monoglyceride (HLB 3-5) and cetylstearyl glucoside (HLB 10-13), and the three non-ionic emulsifiers form a gradient in the range of HLB 2-13, namely HLB fatty alcohol < HLB stearic acid monoglyceride < HLB cetylstearyl glucoside. Wherein the fatty alcohol is C12 alcohol, C14 alcohol, C16 alcohol and C18 alcohol in a weight ratio of 1: 1: 1: 1, the content of monoester in the stearic acid monoglyceride is 30-90%; the weight ratio of fatty alcohol, stearic acid monoglyceride and cetearyl glucoside in the nonionic emulsifier is 2: 1: 1. the percentage or weight ratio of the emulsifier is favorable for the formation of large-particle fatty alcohol liquid crystal which plays a role in conditioning dry combing and wet combing of hair in the hair conditioner, thereby playing a key role in replacing silicone oil and cations and playing a conditioning role.
The grease is liquid at room temperature, and is prepared from nonpolar grease and polar grease in a weight ratio of 1: 2 to 2: 1, the non-polar grease is mineral oil, the polar grease is vegetable oil, the vegetable oil is selected from natural vegetable oil with the oleic acid (C18:1) content of more than or equal to 50%, and the natural vegetable oil is selected from any one of macadamia nut oil, Bridgkin fruit oil, sweet almond oil, olive fruit oil and avocado oil. The grease is selected to be liquid at room temperature and consists of nonpolar grease and polar grease, and is beneficial to formation of liquid crystal.
The polyhydric alcohol is any one of glycerol, propylene glycol and 1, 3-propylene glycol, and the glycerol is preferred in the invention. Glycerol contributes to the formation of liquid crystals and to the stabilization of the system.
Examples I to V
TABLE 1
Figure BDA0003493883640000031
Figure BDA0003493883640000041
Wherein:
the non-ionic emulsifier is composed of fatty alcohol, stearic acid monoglyceride and cetylstearyl glucoside, wherein the content of monoester in stearic acid monoglyceride is 60%; the weight ratio of fatty alcohol, stearic acid monoglyceride and cetearyl glucoside in the nonionic emulsifier is 2: 1: 1, and the fatty alcohol is a C12 alcohol, a C14 alcohol, a C16 alcohol, and a C18 alcohol in a weight ratio of 1: 1: 1: 1 in a certain proportion.
The grease is a mixture of nonpolar grease and polar grease in a weight ratio of 1: 1, wherein the nonpolar oil is mineral oil, and the polar oil is Bridgkin fruit oil;
the polyhydric alcohol is glycerol.
The preparation process comprises the following steps:
a) first preparation of the liquid Crystal oil (O/LC): heating a nonionic emulsifier to 75 ℃, adding water with the temperature of 75 ℃ while stirring (the adding amount of the water is equal to the weight of 1/10-1/2 nonionic emulsifier), continuously stirring, adding liquid grease with stirring and forming uniform liquid crystal emulsion (liquid crystal oil-in-liquid emulsion O/LC), wherein the particle size range of the liquid crystal structure is more than or equal to 5um and less than or equal to 25um PS (shown in figure 1), and the temperature is kept at 40-45 ℃;
b) preparation of liquid-in-water oil-in-liquid O/LC/W: adding the oil-in-liquid-crystal emulsion O/LC in the step a) into the rest deionized water, stirring at a low speed, and slowly cooling to 38 ℃ to form the oil-in-liquid-crystal-in-water O/LC/W emulsion.
Efficacy verification
Hair combing test
The test instrument used an Instron hair comb to test the wet combing work when the hair was treated with the conditioner sample and the dry combing work after the hair was treated with the conditioner sample, each group of samples was tested 10 times and the average was taken.
Blank: hair treated without conditioner and combing work mJ,
sample preparation: tresses treated with conditioner and combing work mJ,
percent remaining carding work%,
the smaller the remaining percent carding work% ratio, the better the carding performance.
The carding work% remaining test results are as follows (see table 2):
EXAMPLES I-V Hair conditioner vs. COMPARATIVE 1 (commercially available conditioner containing cation)
EXAMPLES I-V Hair conditioner vs. 2 (commercial conditioner containing cation and silicone oil)
TABLE 2
Figure BDA0003493883640000051
Table 2 combing work test results show: the% remaining work values (H-mJ for wet combing and D-mJ for dry combing) of the conditioners of examples I-V of the invention were all less than the% remaining work values (comparative 1 and comparative 2) for commercial conditioners containing cations and silicone oils, respectively. It is illustrated that examples I-V of the present invention, which do not contain a cationic and silicone oil, have superior dry/wet combing properties than conditioners containing a cationic and silicone oil.
The invention has mild property
The raw materials used by the hair conditioner disclosed by the invention are all in skin-care grade, and do not contain any cationic polymers (cosmetic limiting substances) such as 1631, 1831 and 2231 for hair conditioners, so that the hair conditioner disclosed by the invention can be used for conditioning hair and also can be used for nursing scalp, and is good in mildness.
Use comfort clinical test method:
the samples of preparation examples I-V and comparative examples 1 and 2 were distributed to 10 subjects belonging to dry scalp, and before use, hair was cleansed with shampoo, and then a proper amount of each sample of preparation examples or comparative examples was applied to scalp and hair, and then rinsed with water, and applied every other day for one week continuously, and the rating scale was 10 points, 1 point (scalp itching, no effect) representing the worst, and 10 points (scalp comfortable, no dryness and no itching) representing the best. And finally, taking the average value of the scores of 10 tested persons, wherein the higher the score is, the better the effect is. The evaluation shows that the hair conditioner has obvious superiority compared with the traditional hair conditioner. The evaluation results are shown in Table 3
TABLE 3 evaluation of comfort of use statistics
Figure BDA0003493883640000061

Claims (3)

1. A hair conditioner which does not contain silicone oil and cations and has a scalp care function is characterized in that; except essence and preservative, the preservative comprises the following components in percentage by weight:
(1) the oil which is liquid at room temperature and accounts for 2-10% of the hair conditioner by weight percentage is non-polar oil and polar oil, and the weight ratio of the oil to the non-polar oil to the polar oil is 1: 2 to 2: 1, wherein the nonpolar oil is mineral oil, the polar oil is vegetable oil, and the vegetable oil is natural vegetable oil with the oleic acid (C18:1) content of more than or equal to 50 percent and is selected from any one of macadamia nut oil, Bridgy fruit oil, sweet almond oil, olive fruit oil and avocado oil;
(2) the hair conditioner comprises a hair conditioner body, a nonionic emulsifier which accounts for 2-8% of the hair conditioner body in weight percentage, wherein the nonionic emulsifier is composed of fatty alcohol, stearic acid monoglyceride and cetearyl glucoside, and the content of monoester in the stearic acid monoglyceride is 30-99%; the weight ratio of fatty alcohol, stearic acid monoglyceride and cetearyl glucoside in the nonionic emulsifier is 2: 1: 1, and the fatty alcohol is a C12 alcohol, a C14 alcohol, a C16 alcohol, and a C18 alcohol in a weight ratio of 1: 1: 1: 1 in proportion;
(3) the hair conditioner comprises 1-10 wt% of a polyol, wherein the polyol is any one of glycerol, propylene glycol and 1, 3-propylene glycol.
(4) The balance of deionized water.
2. The hair conditioner according to claim 1, wherein the polyhydric alcohol is preferably glycerin.
3. The hair conditioner according to claim 1, which is produced by a process comprising:
a) preparing (O/LC) liquid crystal oil-in-liquid, heating a nonionic emulsifier to 75 ℃, adding water with the temperature of 75 ℃ while stirring, wherein the adding amount of the water is equal to the weight of 1/10-1/2 nonionic emulsifier, continuously stirring, adding liquid grease while stirring, and forming uniform liquid crystal emulsion, namely the O/LC liquid crystal oil-in-liquid emulsion, wherein the particle size range of the liquid crystal structure is that PS is more than or equal to 5um and less than or equal to 25um, the temperature is kept at 40-45 ℃,
b) and adding the liquid crystal oil-in-water emulsion O/LC into the rest deionized water, stirring at a low speed, and slowly cooling to 38 ℃ to form the liquid crystal oil-in-water O/LC/W emulsion.
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Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2004143093A (en) * 2002-10-24 2004-05-20 Kose Corp Hair conditioning composition
US20040115158A1 (en) * 2001-04-12 2004-06-17 Ludwig Schieferstein Cosmetic preparations
CN102438581A (en) * 2009-05-19 2012-05-02 株式会社资生堂 Cosmetic preparation
CN102470088A (en) * 2009-06-30 2012-05-23 考格尼斯知识产权管理有限责任公司 Ester mixtures and compositions comprising such ester mixtures
CN102470087A (en) * 2009-06-30 2012-05-23 考格尼斯知识产权管理有限责任公司 Ester mixtures and compositions comprising such ester mixtures
CN107714492A (en) * 2016-08-12 2018-02-23 伽蓝(集团)股份有限公司 A kind of multiplet emulsion containing liquid crystal structure and preparation method thereof
CN111603395A (en) * 2020-05-27 2020-09-01 山东大学 Whitening and moisturizing emulsion containing lamellar liquid crystal and preparation method thereof

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20040115158A1 (en) * 2001-04-12 2004-06-17 Ludwig Schieferstein Cosmetic preparations
JP2004143093A (en) * 2002-10-24 2004-05-20 Kose Corp Hair conditioning composition
CN102438581A (en) * 2009-05-19 2012-05-02 株式会社资生堂 Cosmetic preparation
CN102470088A (en) * 2009-06-30 2012-05-23 考格尼斯知识产权管理有限责任公司 Ester mixtures and compositions comprising such ester mixtures
CN102470087A (en) * 2009-06-30 2012-05-23 考格尼斯知识产权管理有限责任公司 Ester mixtures and compositions comprising such ester mixtures
CN107714492A (en) * 2016-08-12 2018-02-23 伽蓝(集团)股份有限公司 A kind of multiplet emulsion containing liquid crystal structure and preparation method thereof
CN111603395A (en) * 2020-05-27 2020-09-01 山东大学 Whitening and moisturizing emulsion containing lamellar liquid crystal and preparation method thereof

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