CN1414154A - Method of producing composite fibre dress shell fabric - Google Patents
Method of producing composite fibre dress shell fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN1414154A CN1414154A CN 02135605 CN02135605A CN1414154A CN 1414154 A CN1414154 A CN 1414154A CN 02135605 CN02135605 CN 02135605 CN 02135605 A CN02135605 A CN 02135605A CN 1414154 A CN1414154 A CN 1414154A
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- dress shell
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Abstract
A multi-fibre shell fabric for clothes is made up of Tencel 2.2D, mohair, alpaca, rabbit hair and wool through mixing, spinning, weaving and finishing. Its advantages are comfortable wearing, and noble style.
Description
The present invention relates to a kind of textile technology, specifically, is a kind of preparation method of garment material.
Traditional textile production uses single raw material in the majority.This way is convenient to tissue production, reduces buying raw material funds tied up and material inventory.But every kind of raw material all has its intrinsic defective.If use, must be that merits and demerits is all more outstanding with a kind of raw material processing lining.Such as: produce garment material with full raw wool, because of the wool fibre good springiness, wettability power is strong, and warmth retention property is good, and dyeability is good, also has unique feltability, is the first-selected lining of people's clothes autumn and winter.But the wool surface flaky shape makes that wear next to the skin scratchy, good feltability makes that again shrinkage is big after the fabric washing, can't wash in washing machine, is difficult for nursing; And chemical fibre Shu Shui performance is good, and quick-drying washable non-ironing characteristics exactly can remedy these defectives.Therefore, International Textile garment material fashion trend is exactly to use the combination of plurality of raw materials by new and high technology, develops to naturalization, functionalization direction.
The present invention is intended to adopt multiple tencel and natural fibre blended processing method to make garment material, improvement is brought into play the good characteristic of used every kind of raw material by the bad defective that single raw material manufacturing occurs, and reaches that it is comfortable and easy to wear, be easy to nursing, the noble elegant performance of style.
The present invention realizes by following scheme: its procedure of processing is: hair → spin → weave cotton cloth → back arrangement is prepared → closed to raw material; Each step comprises following operation again:
1. raw material is prepared: according to the style and features of processing lining, select tencel and various natural fabric raw material with different characteristics.Proportioning raw materials: Tencel (day silk) 2.2D10~20%, mohair 10~20%, alpaca fibre 10~20%, the rabbit hair 10~20%, wool 30~50%.
2. close the cant method: even various mixed with fibers in the products material composition for adapting to the spinning of multiple performance fibers by closing the cant method, and add spinning oil, increase interfibrous coefficient of friction.
(1) earlier the long mohair of fibre length and alpaca fibre through hair shutting machine mixing shredding, go up carding machine two road combings then.
(2) raw material after the combing is mixed through hair shutting machine with the rabbit hair, wool, and add and to close crude oil 2~4%, antistatic additive 2~5%, amino silicone softener 1~3% (above consumption press raw material weight and calculated) closes the back hair and gets damp again and be controlled at 28~33%.
(3) tencel fiber is evenly mixed through the hair shutting machine shredding and with the batch mixing of (2) process, pack then, vexed hair entered spinning equipment in 10~16 hours.
3. spinning method: close the back hair and enter combing machine for fur the parallel straight formation fine, soft fur bar of fiber combing.90 rev/mins of combing machine for fur cylinder rotating speeds, 14~16 meters/minute of sliver exporting speeds.The fine, soft fur bar enters fine spining machine and further takes out thin elongation, forms yarn.1.3~1.35 times of spinning-drafting multiples.
4. the method for weaving cotton cloth: adopt Italian import TP600 Rapier looms, fabric tissue adopts eight piece three and flies satin, is beneficial to back arrangement fluffing.
5. afterfinish method and process route:
(the being stitched into tubular) → fulling (agent of contracting: detergent 8~10% of seam tube weaving the grey cloth both sides, demineralized water 90~92%) → braying (30 ℃~40 ℃ of temperature, 60~90 minutes time) → tentering oven dry (162 centimetres of tentering width, 100~110 ℃ of dryer temperature) → fluff and (fiber in the yarn of grey cloth surface is evenly pulled out, make the fine hair intensive not show-through) → pad softener (amino silicon class softener 2~4%, glycerine 2~4%, acetic acid 0.5~1.5%) → bur plucking (fabric face fine hair comb is directly made in order) → tentering oven dry (156 centimetres of tentering width, 100~110 ℃ of bake out temperatures) → scalding light (scalds 180~220 ℃ of roll temperatures, 8~10 meters/minute of speed) → cropping (7~9 meters/minute of the speed of a motor vehicle, 3~4 times) → finished product inspection.
By the synthetic novel fabric of multiple fiber.Its quality softness, fine hair is close neat, and gloss is soft, has the style of animal fur, and it is comfortable and easy to wear to have satisfied garment material, is easy to nursing, the noble elegant performance of style.
Embodiments of the invention are as follows:
Embodiment 1:
1. proportioning raw materials: Tencel (day silk) 2.2D10%, mohair 15%, alpaca fibre 15%, the rabbit hair 15%, wool 40%.
2. close hair:
(1) earlier the long mohair of fibre length and alpaca fibre through hair shutting machine mixing shredding, go up carding machine two road combings then.
(2) raw material after the combing is mixed through hair shutting machine with the rabbit hair, wool, and add and to close crude oil 2%, antistatic additive 2%, amino silicone softener 1% (above consumption press raw material weight and calculated) closes the back hair and gets damp again and be controlled at 28%.
(3) tencel fiber is evenly mixed through the hair shutting machine shredding and with the batch mixing of (2) process, pack then, vexed hair entered spinning equipment in 16 hours.
3. spinning: close the back hair and enter combing machine for fur the parallel straight formation fine, soft fur bar of fiber combing.90 rev/mins of combing machine for fur cylinder rotating speeds, 14 meters/minute of sliver exporting speeds.The fine, soft fur bar enters fine spining machine and further takes out thin elongation, forms yarn.1.3 times of spinning-drafting multiples.
4. weave cotton cloth: adopt Italian import TP600 Rapier looms, fabric tissue adopts eight piece three and flies satin, is beneficial to back arrangement fluffing.
5. back arrangement:
(the being stitched into tubular) → fulling (agent of contracting: detergent 8% of seam tube weaving the grey cloth both sides, demineralized water 92%) → braying (30 ℃ of temperature, 90 minutes time) → tentering oven dry (162 centimetres of tentering width, 100~110 ℃ of dryer temperature) → softener that fluffs → pad (amino silicon class softener 2%, glycerine 2%, acetic acid 0.5%) → bur plucking (fabric face fine hair comb is directly made in order) → tentering oven dry (156 centimetres of tentering width, 110 ℃ of bake out temperatures) → scalding light (scalds 180 ℃ of roll temperatures, 8 meters/minute of speed) → cropping (7 meters/minute of the speed of a motor vehicle, 3 times) → finished product inspection.
Embodiment 2:
1. proportioning raw materials: Tencel (day silk) 2.2D15%, mohair 15%, alpaca fibre 15%, the rabbit hair 15%, wool 40%.
2. close hair:
(1) earlier the long mohair of fibre length and alpaca fibre through hair shutting machine mixing shredding, go up carding machine two road combings then.
(2) raw material after the combing is mixed through hair shutting machine with the rabbit hair, wool, and add and to close crude oil 3%, antistatic additive 3.5%, amino silicone softener 2% (above consumption press raw material weight and calculated) closes the back hair and gets damp again and be controlled at 30%.
(3) tencel fiber is evenly mixed through the hair shutting machine shredding and with the batch mixing of (2) process, pack then, vexed hair entered spinning equipment in 13 hours.
3. spinning: close the back hair and enter combing machine for fur the parallel straight formation fine, soft fur bar of fiber combing.90 rev/mins of combing machine for fur cylinder rotating speeds, 15 meters/minute of sliver exporting speeds.The fine, soft fur bar enters fine spining machine and further takes out thin elongation, forms yarn.1.35 times of spinning-drafting multiples.
4. weave cotton cloth: adopt Italian import TP600 Rapier looms, fabric tissue adopts eight piece three and flies satin, is beneficial to back arrangement fluffing.
5. back arrangement:
(the being stitched into tubular) → fulling (agent of contracting: detergent 9% of seam tube weaving the grey cloth both sides, demineralized water 91%) → braying (35 ℃ of temperature, 75 minutes time) → tentering oven dry (162 centimetres of tentering width, 100~110 ℃ of dryer temperature) → softener that fluffs → pad (amino silicon class softener 3%, glycerine 3%, acetic acid 1%) → bur plucking (fabric face fine hair comb is directly made in order) → tentering oven dry (156 centimetres of tentering width, 110 ℃ of bake out temperatures) → scalding light (scalds 200 ℃ of roll temperatures, 9 meters/minute of speed) → cropping (8 meters/minute of the speed of a motor vehicle, 4 times) → finished product inspection.
Embodiment 3:
1. proportioning raw materials: Tencel (day silk) 2.2D20%, mohair 20%, alpaca fibre 20%, the rabbit hair 10%, wool 30%.
2. close hair:
(1) earlier the long mohair of fibre length and alpaca fibre through hair shutting machine mixing shredding, go up carding machine two road combings then.
(2) raw material after the combing is mixed through hair shutting machine with the rabbit hair, wool, and add and to close crude oil 4%, antistatic additive 5%, amino silicone softener 3% (above consumption press raw material weight and calculated) closes the back hair and gets damp again and be controlled at 33%.
(3) tencel fiber is evenly mixed through the hair shutting machine shredding and with the batch mixing of (2) process, pack then, vexed hair entered spinning equipment in 10 hours.
3. spinning: close the back hair and enter combing machine for fur the parallel straight formation fine, soft fur bar of fiber combing.90 rev/mins of combing machine for fur cylinder rotating speeds, 16 meters/minute of sliver exporting speeds.The fine, soft fur bar enters fine spining machine and further takes out thin elongation, forms yarn.1.35 times of spinning-drafting multiples.
4. weave cotton cloth: adopt Italian import TP600 Rapier looms, fabric tissue adopts eight piece three and flies satin, is beneficial to back arrangement fluffing.
5. back arrangement:
(the being stitched into tubular) → fulling (agent of contracting: detergent 10% of seam tube weaving the grey cloth both sides, demineralized water 90%) → braying (40 ℃ of temperature, 60 minutes time) → tentering oven dry (162 centimetres of tentering width, 100~110 ℃ of dryer temperature) → softener that fluffs → pad (amino silicon class softener 4%, glycerine 4%, acetic acid 1.5%) → bur plucking (fabric face fine hair comb is directly made in order) → tentering oven dry (156 centimetres of tentering width, 110 ℃ of bake out temperatures) → scalding light (scalds 220 ℃ of roll temperatures, 10 meters/minute of speed) → cropping (9 meters/minute of the speed of a motor vehicle, 4 times) → finished product inspection.
Claims (6)
1. the preparation method of a composite fibre dress shell fabric, it is characterized in that: the process sequence of preparing → close hair → spin → weave cotton cloth → back arrangement according to raw material carries out, and the proportioning of various fibrous raw materials is: Tencel (day silk) 2.2D10~20%, mohair 10~20%, alpaca fibre 10~20%, the rabbit hair 10~20%, wool 30~50%.
2. the preparation method of a kind of composite fibre dress shell fabric as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: it closes the cant method and is undertaken by following operation:
(1) earlier the long mohair of fibre length and alpaca fibre through hair shutting machine mixing shredding, go up carding machine two road combings then;
(2) raw material after the combing is mixed through hair shutting machine with the rabbit hair, wool, and add and to close crude oil 2~4%, antistatic additive 2~5%, amino silicone softener 1~3% (above consumption press raw material weight and calculated) closes the hair back and gets damp again and be controlled at 28~33%;
(3) tencel fiber is evenly mixed through the hair shutting machine shredding and with the batch mixing of operation (2), pack then, vexed hair entered spinning equipment after 10~16 hours.
3. the preparation method of a kind of composite fibre dress shell fabric as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: its spinning method is undertaken by following operation: close the back hair and enter combing machine for fur the parallel straight formation fine, soft fur bar of fiber combing, 90 rev/mins of combing machine for fur cylinder rotating speeds, 14~16 meters/minute of sliver exporting speeds.The fine, soft fur bar enters fine spining machine and further takes out thin elongation formation yarn, 1.3~1.35 times of spinning-drafting multiples.
4. the preparation method of a kind of composite fibre dress shell fabric as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that: its method of weaving cotton cloth is to adopt Italian import TP600 Rapier looms, and fabric tissue adopts eight piece three and flies satin.
5. the preparation method of a kind of composite fibre dress shell fabric as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: its afterfinish method is undertaken by following operation:
(the being stitched into tubular) → fulling (agent of contracting: detergent 8~10% of seam tube weaving the grey cloth both sides, demineralized water 90~92%) → braying (30 ℃~40 ℃ of temperature, 60~90 minutes time) → tentering oven dry (162 centimetres of tentering width, 100~110 ℃ of dryer temperature) → fluff and (fiber in the yarn of grey cloth surface is evenly pulled out, make the fine hair intensive not show-through) → pad softener (amino silicon class softener 3%, glycerine 3%, acetic acid 1%) → bur plucking (fabric face fine hair comb is directly made in order) → tentering oven dry (156 centimetres of tentering width, 100~110 ℃ of bake out temperatures) → scalding light (scalds 180~220 ℃ of roll temperatures, 8~10 meters/minute of speed) → cropping (7~9 meters/minute of the speed of a motor vehicle, 3~4 times) → finished product inspection.
6. the preparation method of a kind of composite fibre dress shell fabric as claimed in claim 1, it is characterized in that: the proportioning of various fibrous raw materials can be: Tencel (day silk) 2.2D15%, mohair 15%, alpaca fibre 15%, the rabbit hair 15%, wool 40%.
Priority Applications (1)
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CN 02135605 CN1209513C (en) | 2002-09-26 | 2002-09-26 | Method of producing composite fibre dress shell fabric |
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CN 02135605 CN1209513C (en) | 2002-09-26 | 2002-09-26 | Method of producing composite fibre dress shell fabric |
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CN1414154A true CN1414154A (en) | 2003-04-30 |
CN1209513C CN1209513C (en) | 2005-07-06 |
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CN 02135605 Expired - Fee Related CN1209513C (en) | 2002-09-26 | 2002-09-26 | Method of producing composite fibre dress shell fabric |
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Cited By (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN103696083A (en) * | 2013-12-05 | 2014-04-02 | 吴江市亨德利纺织厂 | Sled anti-slipping fabric |
CN104372498A (en) * | 2014-12-12 | 2015-02-25 | 常熟市碧溪新区吴市卓艺家纺厂 | Elastic fur collar fabric |
CN104727160A (en) * | 2013-12-18 | 2015-06-24 | 江苏恒源丝绸集团有限公司 | Coconut fiber composite fabrics |
CN106283469A (en) * | 2016-08-30 | 2017-01-04 | 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 | A kind of soft finish method of cellulose fiber fabric |
CN107761208A (en) * | 2017-10-23 | 2018-03-06 | 张家港市大新毛纺有限公司 | A kind of high content Su Li alpacas wool single yarn type Loop Yarns and preparation method thereof |
CN109082747A (en) * | 2018-09-06 | 2018-12-25 | 江苏阳光毛纺服装技术开发有限公司 | A kind of postfinishing process of wool material with upright pile |
-
2002
- 2002-09-26 CN CN 02135605 patent/CN1209513C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Cited By (8)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN103696083A (en) * | 2013-12-05 | 2014-04-02 | 吴江市亨德利纺织厂 | Sled anti-slipping fabric |
CN104727160A (en) * | 2013-12-18 | 2015-06-24 | 江苏恒源丝绸集团有限公司 | Coconut fiber composite fabrics |
CN104372498A (en) * | 2014-12-12 | 2015-02-25 | 常熟市碧溪新区吴市卓艺家纺厂 | Elastic fur collar fabric |
CN106283469A (en) * | 2016-08-30 | 2017-01-04 | 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 | A kind of soft finish method of cellulose fiber fabric |
CN106283469B (en) * | 2016-08-30 | 2019-03-08 | 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 | A kind of soft finish method of cellulose fiber fabric |
CN107761208A (en) * | 2017-10-23 | 2018-03-06 | 张家港市大新毛纺有限公司 | A kind of high content Su Li alpacas wool single yarn type Loop Yarns and preparation method thereof |
CN107761208B (en) * | 2017-10-23 | 2019-12-20 | 张家港市大新毛纺有限公司 | Method for manufacturing high-content suvian alpaca single-yarn ring yarn |
CN109082747A (en) * | 2018-09-06 | 2018-12-25 | 江苏阳光毛纺服装技术开发有限公司 | A kind of postfinishing process of wool material with upright pile |
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CN1209513C (en) | 2005-07-06 |
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