CN1313662C - Shirt fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a novel face fabric, particularly to a high-count ultrathin shirt face fabric with the function of shape memory, which is made of yarn in a composite structure. The high-count ultrathin shirt face fabric can be used for making various skintight wearing shirts. Short fibers such as purified cotton, etc., are used as the cover component, and filament yarn such as terylene, etc., is used as the core component so as to prepare the cored composite yarn (which has the structure that the short fibers are covered on the filament yarn) in a core sheath structure by utilizing a composite yarn forming device; the cored composite yarn is then prepared into textile face fabric by the normal textile technology, then dyed and processed by other after-finishing technologies so that the face fabric becomes the face fabric for garments, which has the functions of no ironing, easy care and shape memory. The high-count ultrathin shirt face fabric uses the short fibers (cotton and gum) as the surface fibers of the textile and uses the terylene filament yarn embedded in the interior of the textile as the frame fibers. The high-count ultrathin shirt face fabric comprises 65% to 80% of short fiber and 20% to 35% of filament yarn. The count number of the warp and the weft of the composite yarn is from 60<S> to 120<S>, and the present invention belongs to novel high-count ultrathin face fabrics. The present invention has the functions of no ironing and easy care, and the overall performance parameters conform to the requirements of the international standards.

Description

A kind of shirt fabric

Technical field:

The invention belongs to the textile industry field of novel, relate to a kind of yarn of special composite structure and the height with permanent shape memory function made props up, ultra-thin shirt fabric.

Technical background:

Giving cotton (or cellulose fibre) lining shape memory function, promptly exempt from performances such as the stable and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of flatiron, wash and wear, form, particularly give high Zhi Quanmian poplin cloth fabric and possess above-mentioned characteristic, is textile industry one big technical barrier.And make cotton and cellulose fibre lining possess the problem of permanent flatiron, wash and wear characteristic, more be not resolved.At present to 40 ^sThe textile khaki kind fabric of following low count yarn, more is adopts the method for RESIN FINISH to give all-cotton fabric to exempt from flatiron, wash and wear performance.The problem that exists is: its washable number of times is limited on the one hand; Simultaneously since branch to put residual free formaldehyde in order harmful, do not advocated at present and used this technology.For 60 ^sAbove textile poplin cloth fabric because it is powerful own just not too high, is added RESIN FINISH and can be caused declining to a great extent of all-cotton fabric brute force, so 60 ^sOr 60 ^sAbove cotton poplin cloth fabric can't be used the resin finishing technique at all.Same reason, 60 ^sCarrying out singe arrangement, biology enzyme of sanding soft finish, mercerising on the above cotton poplin cloth fabric handles to put in order after the even depth and adds man-hour, all exist an intensity to reduce problem, so the height that can't use above-mentioned deep process technology to produce high-grade tool shape memory function props up, highly dense, ultra-thin, the clean shirt fabric of ultraphotic.That is to say that prior art also can't make 60 ^sOr 60 ^sAbove cotton poplin cloth fabric possesses performances such as the flatiron of exempting from, wash and wear, form be stable.Simultaneously, the new century mankind are to great attention ecological, environmental issue, and the content that new textile standards is put residual free formaldehyde in order to branch has carried out strict restriction, has mentioned the height of law.Make the utilization of RESIN FINISH technology be restricted.Therefore the height of developing a kind of tool shape memory function props up, highly dense, ultra-thin, the clean shirt fabric of ultraphotic, with physical method solve a high shirt fabric non-ironing, wash and wear, form is stable and problem such as DIMENSIONAL STABILITY, becomes the main purpose of the present invention's design.

Summary of the invention:

That adopts earlier applicant's invention is combined into the yarn feeding device (patent No.: ZL01268916.5) produce 60 of staple fibre covered filament ^sAnd 60 ^sAbove core sheath structure bag core composite yarn, chemical-fibres filaments provides modulus and stretching property by force as the core component, staple fibre provides the outward appearance of natural fabric as skin component, make composite yarn and fabric thereof both have the shape memory function of conformality, drapability, stiffness and the alloy of chemical ﹠ blended fabric, possess the feel of natural short fibre fabric, sense of touch, bulkiness and the moisture absorption of skin again; Again with this complex yarn after conventional textile technology prepares composite fabric, through conventional dyeing postfinishing process, make fabric both possess the outward appearance of pure cotton fabric, possess the function of shape memory again simultaneously and exempt from flatiron, wash and wear function.

Because the humidification of skeleton long filament makes 60 in the composite yarn ^sAnd 60 ^sAbove poplin cloth carry out formaldehyde-free resins arrangement, sanding soft finish, mercerising singe arrangement, biology enzyme handle even depth after after the arrangement processing, still possess conduct and take necessary brute force of fabric and good wearability, thereby can produce high, ultra-thin, the clean high-grade shirt fabrics of ultraphotic.Concrete steps are:

1, has the Gao Zhibao core composite yarn of cotton (or other cellulose fibres) the short fiber covered filament of skin-core structure being combined on the yarn feeding device ring spinner spinning process (mainly containing: shredding, removal of impurities, combing, rolling, drafting, drawing-off, rove etc.) spinning routinely, make it have following characteristic: the 1. core-sheath-type bag core composite yarn of staple fibre covered filament; 2. the short fiber component is cotton or viscose; 3. the long filament component is terylene (PET) long filament; 4. the part by weight of long filament is 20%-35%, and the part by weight of staple fibre is 65%-80%; 5. staple fibre forms complete coverage rate to long filament, and clad structure is firmly stable; 6. the composite yarn number is 60 ^s-120 ^s7. staple fibre is as the surface fiber of fabric, and long filament is as the fibrous skeleton of fabric.

2, knit system composite fabric through conventional technology (mainly contain: winder, warping, sizing, pass, weave etc.) with this composite yarn on loom, this fabric has with long filament as fibrous skeleton, and staple fibres such as cotton are as the composite construction of surface fiber;

3, to fabric postfinishing process (mainly contain: destarch, bleaching, mercerising, sanding, enzyme are washed, dyeed, softness, tentering, preshrunk etc.) such as dye, singe arrangement, biology enzyme handled as formaldehyde-free resins arrangement, sanding soft finish, mercerising, process after the high temperature stentering forming even depth, make that fabric has that ultraphotic is clean, characteristics such as peach face, mercerising, non-ironing, wash and wear, but constitute wearing fabric.

Because polyester filament plays humidification as skeleton in fabric, the brute force of such high-count ultra-thin lining is improved, having broken through can not be to 60 ^sAbove high-count ultra-thin poplin cloth lining carries out the singe technical barrier of arrangement, biology enzyme processing and RESIN FINISH of sanding soft finish, mercerising.Can be according to requirement to lining feel and style, design and the deep process technology of using various fabrics to 60 ^sThe composite material of single thread carries out deep processing, produces 60 ^sThe single thread top grade is non-ironing, wash and wear, clean, the ultra-thin shirt fabric of ultraphotic.

The specific embodiment:

1, raw material: 1. short fiber component: combed cotton;

2. long filament component: terylene fully drawn yarn (PET FDY 22dtex/9f);

2, compound mode: bale of cotton polyester filament (JC60 ^s+ PET FDY 22dtex/9f);

3, lining technological parameter:

Fabric construction: combed cotton short fiber/filament core-spun yarn

Longitude and latitude yarn count: 60 ^s(20dtex) * 60 ^s(20dtex)

Density: 150 * 110

Fabric tissue:

The warp of the fabric panel of making, weft yarn number belong to the fabric panel of plain weave, twill-weave more than 60.

4, dyeing fabric postfinishing process:

Destarch → bleaching → mercerising → dyeing → softness → tentering → preshrunk

Form 60 ^sHigh non-ironing, the wash and wear shirt fabric of poplin cloth of cladded yarn, following inspection technology foundation of reference and standard:

Inspection technology foundation: the mensuration of GB/T3917.1-1997 fabric tearing brute force

The restorative mensuration of GB/T3819-1997 textiles folding line is recovered horn cupping

FZ/01045-1996 fabric fall test method

FZ/T01061-1999 fabric triboelectrification voltage determination method

With reference to the flat deflection of Unite States Standard AATCC fabric (wash and wear) experimental technique

The parameter result that test obtains the machine material is:

Specification: JC60 ^s(PET30D) * JC60 ^s(PET30D) * 150 * 110 * 63 ";

Finished weight: 110g/m ²159g/m

Tearing brute force (CN): warp-wise 845; Broadwise 625

Elastic recovery angle (degree): anxious 221; Slow 242

Crease-resistant rank: 3 grades

Flat deflection: 4 grades of warp-wises; Broadwise 3-4 level

Draping property: static drape coefficient 59.7%, ripple several 4;

Dynamic suspended coefficient 59.16%, ripple several 4;

Active rate is 1.36%; Aesthetic coefficient 39.11%;

Stiffness coefficient 46.55%.

Triboelectrification is pressed (V): 88 half-life (second): 12.95

Claims (2)

1, a kind of shirt fabric, employing is combined into the core sheath structure bag core composite yarn that yarn feeding device is produced the staple fibre covered filament, prepare dyed postfinishing process behind the composite fabric with this composite yarn again, it is characterized in that the surface fiber of staple fibre as fabric, long filament is as the fibrous skeleton of fabric, the staple fibre component is cotton or viscose, and the long filament component is a polyester filament; The part by weight of staple fibre is 65%-80%, and the part by weight of long filament is 20%-35%; Clad structure is firm; Composite yarn number 60 ^S-120 ^S

2, shirt fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that fabric warp, weft yarn number are more than 60 plain weave, twill-weave fabric; Tearing brute force (CN) is radially 845, broadwise 625; Elastic recovery angle is slow 242 degree of anxious 221 degree; Crease-resistant rank is 3 grades; 4 grades of flat deflection warp-wises, broadwise 3-4 level; Voltage 88V has rubbed; 12.95 seconds half-life; Draping property is as follows:

The static drape coefficient is 59.7%, ripple several 4;

Dynamically suspended coefficient is 59.16%, ripple several 4;

Active rate 1.36%;

Aesthetic coefficient 39.11%;

Stiffness coefficient 46.55%.