KR960006355B1 - Wool/silk/cashmere compound yarn and its fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

The conjugated yarn with 20-60wt% wool, 20-30wt% silk and 20-50wt% cashmere is prepared by : (A) spinning process that comprises aging silk top, mixing wool and silk and cashmere in gilling box, and mixing recoming top mixed in the fine spinning process, and making sliver through autoleveller and high gill and by-coiler, and oiling with softness agent and antistatic agent; (B) dyeing process that comprises pretreating spun yarn in wet cond., and dyeing at neutral pH and low temp., and washing with warm water, and treating fixing agent; (C) weaving process to prevent cutting of wrap yarn by controling opening weight and opening timing and rest position; and (D) manufacturing process that comprises drying and setting and antipeeling process.

Description

[Name of invention]

Wool / silk / cashmere composite yarn and woven fabrics thereof

Detailed description of the invention

(Field of invention)

The present invention relates to a composite spun yarn made from wool, silk and cashmere and a woven fabric of the composite yarn.

(Background of invention)

As a spinning yarn for weaving conventional men's welfare, 100% of yarn has been used, mixed spinning yarn of synthetic fibers such as wool and polyester, or mixed spinning yarn such as wool and silk. Composite spun yarns blended with wool, silk, and cashmere have not been developed until now because of their extremely thin cashmere raw materials, shorter fiber lengths than fleece wool raw materials, and the uniquely smooth nature of silk. Since the coefficient of friction is different from other fibers because there is no scale, and due to the inclusion of sericin (sericin) when mixed spinning is not good spinning properties.

The present inventors have developed the dyeing, weaving, and processing techniques, including the spinning technique of the present invention, which can produce a composite spun yarn of wool, silk, and cashmere by eliminating the above problems.

(Purpose of invention)

An object of the present invention is to provide a composite spun yarn and a woven fabric of the composite yarn spun by blending wool, silk and cashmere,

(Summary of invention)

The composite yarn of the wool / silk / cashmere of the present invention is composed of 20 to 60% by weight of wool, 20 to 30% by weight of silk, and 20 to 50% by weight of cashmere, and the silk and cashmere are aged and mixed under specific conditions. Composite spun yarn and its composite produced by ripening the mixing top to spun the composite raw material of wool / silk / cashmere with a specific mixing technique and smoothly mixing the wool / silk / cashmere using a specific emulsion. The present invention relates to a fabric finished by dyeing, weaving and processing yarns.

(Detailed Description of Specific Embodiments of the Invention)

The characteristics of each raw material used to prepare the wool / silk / cashmere composite yarn of the present invention are as follows.

(Wool)

Wool fiber is obtained by cutting cotton wool, which is the most widely used animal textile. Wool fibers have a circular or oval cross section and have scales on the surface to increase the incorporation between the fibers, and the presence of abundant crimps to impart elasticity to the wool, resulting in good spinning.

(Silk)

Silk fiber is a continuous filament of double layers consisting of about 72-81% by weight of fibroin and about 19-28% by weight of sericin surrounding it, of which sericin is amorphous and is used in hot soap solution. Dissolves. Silk fibers have a large surface area due to the thin fibers, have no scale, and have different friction coefficients from other fibers, and generate a lot of static electricity. When mixed with other raw materials of silk raw materials, the relatively different friction coefficient and sericin content deteriorate the spinning property and require sufficient pretreatment during the spinning preparation stage.

(Cashmere)

Cashmere raw materials are taken from cashmere goats. Unlike ordinary wool, the average fiber length is relatively short (35 to 45 mm) and the fineness is 14.5 to 16.5 μm, which is thinner than normal wool. Cashmere raw materials require special spinning techniques because they are thinner, shorter in fiber length, and have a unique, natural, smooth property that degrades spinning.

The mixing ratio of wool / silk / cashmere of the present invention is 20 to 60:20 to 30:20 to 50 by weight.

Due to the properties of silk and cashmere described above, it is impossible to manufacture a composite yarn by spinning the mixed raw materials of wool, silk and cashmere according to conventional spinning techniques.

Method for producing a composite yarn of wool / silk / cashmere in the present invention is as follows.

In order to eliminate the above problems with silk fibers, the silk top is aged to suppress the generation of static electricity and to decompose sericin. Sufficient aging of cashmere fibers reduces inherent smoothness, static electricity, and good cohesion, resulting in improved spinning properties.

In the case of mixing raw materials of wool, silk and cashmere, only the same fibers are bundled together due to the inherent properties of each fiber, and since the thicknesses of the fibers are different, it is difficult to uniformly mix the raw materials. This problem has a bad effect on the tone in tone immediately after dyeing. Therefore, the method of mixing the wool, silk and cashmere raw materials developed in the present invention by mixing the wool, silk and cashmere in a gilling box (gilling box) by the mixing process, the recombination saw mixed in the front process of the automatic leveler ( It consists of making slivers via an auto-leveller, a high gil1 and a bi-coiler.

In order to smoothly spun the wool / silk / cashmere composite yarn of the present invention, since the friction coefficient of silk and cashmere fibers is different and a lot of static electricity is generated, an oiling process is performed using a smoothing / softening material and an antistatic agent at the same time. In the present invention, the friction coefficient between silk and cashmere is reduced, and the composition of the oil material for suppressing the generation of static electricity is composed of a composition in which 1 part of smoothing / flexible material and 3 parts of antistatic agent are diluted in 24 parts of softened water.

Although wool, silk and cashmere are all protein fibers, it is almost impossible to dye the wool / silk / cashmere composite yarn uniformly due to the raw material characteristics due to the difference in affinity with the dye and the fiber thickness. .

Silk fibers, in particular, are made of very fine fibrils that form fibrill bundles, and fibrill bundles form fibroin, which is extremely thin compared to wool fibers and can be combined with dyes. Due to the large surface area, rapid dyeing of silk fibers and dyes occurs at the beginning of dyeing. Therefore, dyeing conditions and temperature conditions should be provided so that initial dyeing proceeds as slowly as possible.

In addition, when reactive dyes or acid dyes for wool are applied to wool / silk / cashmere composite yarn, they should be dyed at a low temperature of 85 ° C. or lower for the tone in tone of both fibers. Because chemical bonds are weaker than wool, firm bonds are not achieved after dyeing is finished and the required level of fastness is difficult to achieve.

Pretreatment in the case of dyeing wool / silk / cashmere composite yarn is a necessary step in determining sericin content and removing spinning emulsion and other impurities before dyeing. In the case of cheese dyeing, the pretreatment has a great effect on the level of bacteriostaticity after the pretreatment due to the effect of sericin remaining on the surface of the bath. Therefore, appropriate pretreatment methods should be selected. If the sericin content is about 6 to 10%, degumming does not need to be performed. In view of the above, the present invention performs a pretreatment step of wetting the wool / silk / cashmere composite yarn at 80 ° C. for 20 to 30 minutes.

Wool / silk / cashmere composite yarns having completed the pretreatment process are dyed. Silk fiber composed of micro fibril has a larger surface area than wool, so rapid dyeing occurs at the initial stage of dyeing. Initial pH and temperature should be adjusted to prevent initial rapid deposition. The prevention of rapid rapid deposition is for the homogenization. It is preferable to keep the initial temperature low, and it is preferable to maintain neutral so that initial pH does not move toward the acid because rapid acidification occurs in acid.

In order to maintain the same color and uniformity of the three fibers of wool, silk and cashmere, the amount of dyeing to be dyed with temperature should be properly adjusted. Silk fibers are continuously dyed from low to 70 ° C. and as the temperature rises, the dye dye desorbs. Therefore, for good color and uniformity, the silk fibers are dyed first and the wool and cashmere are dyed while warming up. Since the difference in color between wool and silk varies considerably between dyes, individual dyes should be tested to select dyes with good color between wool and silk. Wool and silk have a difference in dyeing with temperature, and silk is relatively more dyed than wool at temperatures below 70 ° C. Above 85 ° C., dyes are eliminated from silk, causing dye transfer to wool.

In terms of color strength, silk must be about 10% darker than wool to appear the same color. At the end of the dyeing, the dyed samples are sampled to check the color and color match of the silk and wool before finishing the dyeing. As a result of the sampling, the silk is soft and the color of wool is thick, and the time is extended at 85 ° C or the temperature is increased by 2 ~ 3 ° C. If the silk is dark and the color of wool is light, the color is 65 ~ 60 ° C. The temperature is lowered to prolong the time.

The dyeing of wool / silk / cashmere composite yarn is low temperature dye below 90 ℃ and it is difficult to expect good fastness due to the low binding strength between silk and dye. Therefore, after the appropriate post-treatment, the fixing agent (fixing agent) can be treated to obtain the required level of fastness.

In order to maintain a good feel of wool / silk / cashmere composite yarns and their products, the silk should contain a sericin content of 6-10% and no unnecessary degumming is done. Or cationic silicone softeners for good flexibility of this composite yarn and products.

The dyeing method of the wool / silk / cashmere composite yarn of the present invention has the effect of the invention which can impart good characteristics in the dyeing characteristics such as the same color, color fastness, touch, and flexibility of the composite yarn and the product.

In the case of weaving the composite yarn of the present invention, the composite material lacks the elasticity, the warp cutting is increased, and the weaving is improved by improving the working conditions of the loom. In other words, due to the lack of elasticity of composite yarn as a composite material, it is possible to reduce the incidence of inclination by adjusting the opening amount, the timing of opening and the back rest, and to reduce the occurrence of the hair by developing a special body of elliptical shape at the end of the body. Let's do it.

The woven fabric of the composite yarn of the present invention undergoes a processing step in order to maintain a soft touch unique to cashmere. The processing process improves the conditions of setting to give the proper felting properties, to dry at low temperatures and to soften the feel while maintaining the silk's distinctive luster. In other words, in order to prevent the sensation of roughness and deterioration of color clarity when the smelting effect is poor, it is necessary to set appropriate preparation concentration, smelting time, temperature, etc. And drying at a process water content of wool. In the FD (Full Decatizing) process, which has the best set effect, it maintains the silk-specific luster and the soft touch elasticity of cashmere, and the friction of peeling is because the strength of silk is stronger than that of other materials in wool, silk, and cashmere composite yarns. Machine the woven fabric to prevent pilling. Since the touch is somewhat rough after FD setting, the padding is dried by padding in a dryer mangle to smooth the cross section after setting.

The wool / silk / cashmere composite yarn of the present invention is a representative natural fiber material by blending and spinning to take full advantage of the characteristics of each raw material to have a soft touch than the product by the conventional yarn, natural gloss, and can produce a product with light weight Has the effect of the invention.

Simple modifications or variations of the present invention can be recognized by those skilled in the art because it is within the scope of the present invention, the protection scope of the present invention will be embodied by the appended claims.

Claims (2)

The silk top is aged and wool, silk and cashmere are mixed in a Gilling box by a giling process, the recombination saws are mixed in a spinning process, and a sliver is manufactured through an autolabeller, a high speed road and a bicoiler. Spinning process that performs oiling process using smoothing softener and antistatic agent: Dyeing process of wet yarn pretreatment, dyeing by keeping PH neutral at low temperature, washing with hot water and post-treatment with fixative: Opening amount, opening timing and rest Weaving process to adjust the position to prevent inclined trimming: 20 to 60% by weight of wool, 20 to 30% by weight of silk, and 20 to 50% by weight through a processing process that prevents slitting, drying, setting and peeling Weaving with a composite yarn made of cashmere. The silk top is aged and wool, silk and cashmere are mixed in a Gilling box by a giling process, the recombination saws are mixed in a spinning process, and a sliver is manufactured through an autolabeller, a high speed road and a bicoiler. 20 ~ 60% by weight of wool by performing spinning process for oiling process using smoothing softener and antistatic agent and dyeing process for wet pretreatment of spinning yarn, keeping PH neutral at low temperature, dyeing, washing with hot water and post-treatment with fixative , 20-30 wt% silk and 20-50 wt% cashmere.