CN113897797A - Ancient silk weaving process - Google Patents
Ancient silk weaving process Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN113897797A CN113897797A CN202111259220.2A CN202111259220A CN113897797A CN 113897797 A CN113897797 A CN 113897797A CN 202111259220 A CN202111259220 A CN 202111259220A CN 113897797 A CN113897797 A CN 113897797A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- silk
- repairing
- weaving
- color
- agent
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/38—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using reactive dyes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
- D03D15/225—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/58—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads characterised by the coefficients of friction
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M13/322—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing nitrogen
- D06M13/368—Hydroxyalkylamines; Derivatives thereof, e.g. Kritchevsky bases
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
- D06M15/01—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with natural macromolecular compounds or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/03—Polysaccharides or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/05—Cellulose or derivatives thereof
- D06M15/09—Cellulose ethers
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
- D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
- D06P3/045—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups dyeing and degumming silk
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
- D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
- D06P3/10—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups using reactive dyes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/02—After-treatment
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
Abstract
The invention discloses a process for weaving silk by an ancient method, which comprises the steps of degumming, dyeing, color fixing, repairing and weaving in sequence; wherein the degumming process comprises degumming in a boiling water bath and then in an acid water bath to obtain the silk fibroin; the dyeing process comprises the steps of dyeing by adopting reactive dye; the color fixing process comprises the steps of fixing the color of dyed silk fibroin by using a color fixing agent; and the repairing process comprises the step of lubricating the fixed silk fibroin by using a repairing agent. The invention selects the formaldehyde-free color fixing agent KS which can be combined with the repairing agent to form a dyeing-color fixing-repairing integrated process, namely the smoothness of the surface of the silk is kept, the color is not easy to fall off, the service life of the silk product can be prolonged, and the bright color is kept in the using process.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of silk weaving, in particular to an ancient silk weaving process.
Background
Silk, a textile, is woven from silk or synthetic fibers, rayon, staple, and the like; the term "woven fabric" refers to a fabric made of pure or mixed silk or rayon. In ancient times, silk was a textile woven from mulberry silk, including a small amount of tussah silk and tapioca silk. With the development of the technology, due to the abundant development of the raw materials of the textile, the warp adopts the textile woven by the artificial or natural filament fiber, which can be also called silk in a broad sense, and the silk woven by the pure mulberry silk is also called silk in particular.
From the aspect of weaving process, the method is divided into an ancient weaving process and a modern weaving process, the modern weaving process is suitable for the development of modern mechanical technology, the weaving efficiency is improved, some weaving steps in the ancient weaving process, such as drafting, denting and the like, are omitted, but the interlacing weaving of warps and wefts into silk can still be completed. However, although the modern weaving process is improved in efficiency, the modern weaving process is far from being compared with the ancient weaving process in the refinement degree. Even some fabrics cannot be finished on modern weaving machines, and still need to be finished manually by an ancient weaving process, such as tapestry, brocade and the like.
Therefore, the optimization of the ancient silk weaving process has extremely important significance for continuing the traditional weaving technology. Due to the particularity of silk, the ancient silk has poor cohesion capability between warps and wefts in the production process, and silk threads need to be tensioned in order to enable a finished product to have a flat and smooth surface, so that the technical requirement on manual weaving is particularly high, the weaving speed is also particularly slow, and the silk processing speed is influenced. Therefore, the cohesion capability of the warps and the wefts is improved, the quality of silk finished products can be improved, silk threads are tighter, the artificial weaving speed can be increased, and the efficiency is improved.
The prior art generally improves the cohesion capacity through a glue removing process. The silk is composed of silk fibroin and sericin, wherein the sericin accounts for 20% -30% of the content of the cocoon silk, the fibroin accounts for 70% -80% of the content of the cocoon silk, the fibroin is fibrin (silk-fibriin) which is not easy to dissolve in water, and the sericin is globulin which is easy to dissolve in water, plays a role in protecting and gluing the silk fibroin, and can be smoothly reeled. In the prior art, the sericin is removed by directly soaking the silk in hot water or alkaline water, and the good water solubility of the silk is utilized to directly remove and retain the fibroin, so that the silk thread is not damaged, and the silk thread is relatively easy to color. Direct hot water degumming is often incomplete, and is the condition that silk products are not uniformly dyed and the like. The alkaline water degumming effect is good, but silk threads are easy to dry, and if the silk threads are not subjected to post-treatment, the woven finished product is easy to wrinkle, the silk threads are easy to break and have no luster, and the use of silk products is seriously influenced. Therefore, degumming is helped by adding a refining agent in the prior art, and the silk refining agent helps to smoothly degum and ensures that the fabric has good hand feeling, whiteness and the like, but the problems of easiness in wrinkling and no luster of silk finished products cannot be improved. The Chinese patent CN112941937A provides an ancient silk process, which adds a cationic color fixing agent to fix the color of silk fabrics, thereby avoiding the situations of fading, overlapping colors and the like and leading the silk to have longer service life. However, the method heats the silk product with soap and soda ash to soften sericin to remove impurities such as pigment, grease, wax and the like, the woven finished product is easy to wrinkle and has poor glossiness, and the problems of poor cohesion capability among raw silk and low weaving efficiency still exist in the weaving process.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide an ancient silk weaving process, which can perform color fixation and repair treatment on silk, improve the cohesion capability between silk threads and keep the toughness of the silk threads, thereby improving the weaving efficiency, solving the problem that silk finished products are easy to wrinkle and difficult to handle, and enabling the silk finished products to be softer, smoother and glossy.
In order to realize the aim, the technical scheme of the invention comprises the steps of sequentially carrying out degumming, dyeing, color fixing, repairing and weaving processes; wherein the degumming process comprises degumming in a boiling water bath and then in an acid water bath to obtain the silk fibroin; the dyeing process comprises the steps of dyeing by adopting reactive dye; the color fixing process comprises the steps of fixing the color of dyed silk fibroin by using a color fixing agent; and the repairing process comprises the step of lubricating the fixed silk fibroin by using a repairing agent.
Further, the degumming process comprises the steps of immersing raw silk into boiling water, boiling for 3-4 hours, and standing for 30-60 min at constant temperature; and removing raw silk, putting the raw silk into a constant-temperature water bath with the pH value of 5-6, standing for 30-90 min, taking out the raw silk, and washing the raw silk with water to obtain the silk fibroin fiber, namely the degummed silk.
Further, the fixing agent is an aldehyde-free fixing agent KS.
Further, the repairing agent is a mixture of hydroxyethyl cellulose and triethanolamine;
further, the mass ratio of the hydroxyethyl cellulose to the triethanolamine is 1: 1-2.5;
further, the mass ratio of the addition amount of the repairing agent to the addition amount of the fixing agent is 1: 1.
Further, the method specifically comprises the following steps:
(1) and (3) drying: drying fresh cocoons to form semi-dry cocoons, and drying to form dry cocoons;
(2) reeling silk: performing cocoon cooking treatment on the dried silkworm cocoons, after the cocoon cooking is finished, extracting silks in the silkworm cocoons subjected to cocoon cooking through a silk reeling machine, and combining a plurality of silks into raw silks;
(3) degumming: immersing the product obtained in the step (2) in boiling water, boiling for 3-4 h, and standing at constant temperature for 30-60 min; removing raw silk, putting the raw silk into a constant-temperature water bath with the pH value of 5-6, standing for 30-90 min, taking out the raw silk, and washing the raw silk with water to obtain silk fibroin, namely degummed silk;
(4) dyeing and fixing color: dyeing the degummed silk obtained in the step (3), and treating the degummed silk by using a color fixing agent after dyeing;
(5) repairing: lubricating the degummed silk dyed in the step (4) by using a repairing agent;
(6) weaving: doubling and twisting the degummed silk lubricated in the step (5), weaving and processing the degummed silk into warp and weft, then warping and rolling the silk doubled and twisted, and interweaving the warp and the weft to form a silk fabric;
(7) printing: and (4) printing the silk fabric dyed in the step (6), finishing the printed silk fabric by using a chemical agent, and finishing to form silk.
The drying in the step (1) comprises the steps of drying fresh cocoons at a high temperature of 90-100 ℃ to semi-dry cocoons with water content of 50-70%; and (4) after the semi-dry cocoons are stored for 3-4 days, drying the semi-dry cocoons at the temperature of 80-90 ℃ again to form dry cocoons.
And (5) mixing hydroxyethyl cellulose and triethanolamine according to a ratio of 1: 1-2.5, adding the mixture into water to form a repair liquid, wherein the addition amount of the repair liquid and the addition amount of the color fixing agent are 1:1, and soaking the dyed and color-fixed degummed silk in the repair liquid for 30-60 min.
The drying of the silkworm cocoon aims to prevent the silkworm cocoon from activating pupa moths during the storage period of the silkworm cocoon, and prevent parasitic fly eggs left by silkworm bodies from generating maggots and the pupa bodies from rotting to damage a cocoon layer, and simultaneously, the cocoon layer is subjected to heat treatment to properly change the easy-to-dissolve property of sericin on the outer layer, enhance the cocoon cooking resistance, protect the reelability of the cocoon, and facilitate silk reeling and storage. In the drying process of the silkworm cocoons, reasonable temperature, humidity and wind speed are adopted according to the characteristics of the silkworm cocoons, excessive denaturation of sericin is avoided, proper drying uniformity is achieved, and cocoon quality is preserved.
The sericin wraps and permeates two silk fibroin to form a silk, both the sericin and the fibroin belong to protein, but the structure and the amino acid components of the sericin and the fibroin are different. The silk fibroin is a main component in the silk, accounts for 70-73% of the mass, the sericin accounts for 23-25% of the mass, and other media including pigments, organic lipids and the like account for about 5%. Sericin is globular protein with good water solubility, and the characteristics of sericin are utilized to dissolve silk in hot water for degumming and refining. Because the amino acid compositions of silk glue and silk fibroin are different, the silk fibroin is fibrin (silk-fibrin) and is not easy to dissolve in water, and the silk glue is globulin and is easy to dissolve in water, the total length of silk spun by the silkworm can reach 800-1200 m. Fibroin is about 97% pure protein and is composed of 18 amino acids, of which the main content is up to 8 amino acids essential to the human body. The whole silk belongs to porous fiber, the structure of the microparticle under a microscope is similar to that of an activated carbon molecular sieve, and the structure of the silk peptide is an antiparallel-folded structure. The raw silk before degumming is fixed on the outer layer of the main fiber (fibroin) and sericin is uniformly distributed, the sericin belongs to a spherical amorphous structure, the strength of the raw silk is very low, and the strength of the raw silk depends on the fibroin fiber.
Generally, the ancient weaving process mainly comprises two types of raw weaving and mature weaving. The raw weaving is that the warp and weft yarns are made into fabric without being refined and dyed, namely blank silk, and then the blank silk is refined and dyed into finished products. The production mode has low cost and short process, and is the main mode of silk-thick weaving. The mature weaving means that the warp and weft yarns are dyed before weaving, and the woven blank silk is not required to be dyed again to obtain a finished product. The method is mainly used for producing high-grade silk fabrics such as brocade satin, taffeta and the like.
The traditional ancient silk weaving process generally comprises the following steps: non-degummed silk → impregnation → silk winding → doubling → warping → cop swing → cop bubble → weaving → doffer → softening → finished product. Because secondary scouring, bleaching and dyeing have great damage to mulberry silk, the silk finished product generally has the historical problems of deep dark color and luster and poor light color homogeneity.
The process for manufacturing the ancient silk improved by the prior art comprises the following steps: unglued mulberry silk → impregnation → silk winding → doubling → first twisting + second twisting → sizing → skeining → degumming → dyeing → doubling → silk winding → warping → cop swing → weaving → doffing → bleaching or dyeing → finished product. The improvement aims to reduce the damage degree of the bleaching and dyeing process to silk threads to the minimum, improve the color brightness of finished fabrics and improve the fabric hand feeling, but the improvement of the integral color and luster and the color brightness is limited, and the color fixation problem of silk cannot be fundamentally solved. Need through dyeing treatment, traditional dyeing is accomplished the back, generally carries out supplementary fixed color through the fixing agent, and traditional fixing agent's fixed effect is general, and the condition such as fade, overlapping color appear easily in the colour after the dyeing, has reduced the practicality.
The invention adopts reactive dye to dye and then fixes color by using formaldehyde-free color fixing agent KS. The color fixing agent KS is obtained by carrying out polymerization reaction on organic amine and epoxy chloropropane and then acidifying with hydrochloric acid, is used for fixing the color of reactive dye, can form a compound by bridging between the dye and fiber, namely simultaneously react with dye molecules to form a highly diversified crosslinking system by crosslinking with cellulose fiber, so that the dye is firmly combined with the fiber, the dye is prevented from falling off from the fiber, the dyeing fastness is improved, active substances in the color fixing agent can be mutually condensed on the surface of the fiber to form a three-dimensional reticular film, the dye is sealed, the smoothness of a cloth cover is increased, the friction coefficient is reduced, the dye is not easy to wear, the dye is further prevented from swelling, dissolving and falling off in the wet friction process, and the wet friction fastness is improved.
On one hand, the color fixing agent and the fiber are subjected to chemical reaction and are combined through covalent bonds, so that the dye and the fiber are combined more firmly. Meanwhile, hydrophilic anions of dye molecules are combined with cations of the color fixing agent to generate insoluble salt.
On the other hand, the fixing agent KS can be combined with a repair agent. According to the invention, the repairing agent triethanolamine is selected to react with the color fixing agent, and the triethanolamine is complexed on the surface of the color fixing agent, so that smoothness of the surface of the silk is kept, and the color is not easy to fall off.
The repairing agent selected by the invention is a mixture of triethanolamine and hydroxyethyl cellulose, the ratio of the triethanolamine to the hydroxyethyl cellulose is 1: 1-2.5, and the repairing agent is attached to the surface of the fiber to enable the fiber to generate a smoothing effect. It reduces the static and dynamic friction coefficient between the fibres by increasing the fibre-to-fibre smoothing effect. On the one hand, the physical properties and on the other hand the properties of the softening agent on the surface of the fiber, the main function of which is whether the softening agent is well deposited and aligned on the surface of the fiber. The soft finished fabric should be wash durable, so the softener and fabric fiber must be combined by chemical, polar or van der waals bonds to achieve a permanent finish. The triethanolamine and HCl deposited on the surface of the fixing agent KS act to attach to the surface of the fixing agent, meanwhile, the hydroxyethyl cellulose is attached to the surface of the fiber, and the triethanolamine and the HCl act simultaneously to produce an overlapping effect. The color fixing agent and the repairing agent are combined through chemical health care to form a whole, so that the dyeing-color fixing-repairing process is integrated, and the woven silk product has the washing resistance, high friction coefficient and smoothness.
Through the analysis, the dyeing-color fixing-repairing process is realized by selecting the mixture of the reactive dye, the curing agent KS, the repairing agent triethanolamine and the hydroxyethyl cellulose to form an integrated protective layer with smooth and anti-scour performance, so that the surface of a woven silk product is smooth, the anti-wrinkle and anti-scour capabilities are high, and the color is durable and is not decolored.
After adopting the scheme, compared with the prior art, the invention has the following outstanding advantages and effects:
1. the invention selects the formaldehyde-free color fixing agent KS which can be combined with the repairing agent to form a dyeing-color fixing-repairing integrated process, namely the smoothness of the surface of the silk is kept, the color is not easy to fall off, the service life of the silk product can be prolonged, and the bright color is kept in the using process.
2. Warp and weft of silk thread are dyed earlier respectively and are weavingd, and the silk product colour of weaving is gorgeous, can select as required multiple color, has enriched the artistic style of ancient method silk weaving product, promotes the quality of silk product.
3. The formaldehyde-free color fixing agent is adopted, so that the damage of the traditional coloring agent and the color fixing agent to a human body is effectively avoided while the service life of the silk is prolonged, multiple bleaching and dyeing are not needed, and the damage of the bleaching and dyeing process to the fabric is avoided.
Detailed Description
The present embodiment is only for explaining the present invention, and it is not limited to the present invention, and those skilled in the art can make modifications of the present embodiment without inventive contribution as needed after reading the present specification, but all of them are protected by patent law within the scope of the claims of the present invention.
The invention provides an ancient silk weaving process, which mainly comprises the following steps:
(1) and (3) drying: drying fresh cocoons to form semi-dry cocoons, and drying to form dry cocoons; the drying comprises the steps of drying fresh cocoons at a high temperature of 90-100 ℃ to semi-dry cocoons with water content of 50-70%; and (4) after the semi-dry cocoons are stored for 3-4 days, drying the semi-dry cocoons at the temperature of 80-90 ℃ again to form dry cocoons.
(2) Reeling silk: and (3) carrying out cocoon cooking treatment on the dried silkworm cocoons, after the cocoon cooking is finished, drawing out silks in the silkworm cocoons after the cocoon cooking through a silk reeling machine, and combining a plurality of silks into raw silks.
(3) Degumming: immersing the product obtained in the step (2) in boiling water, boiling for 3-4 h, and standing at constant temperature for 30-60 min; and removing raw silk, putting the raw silk into a constant-temperature water bath with the pH value of 5-6, standing for 30-90 min, taking out the raw silk, and washing the raw silk with water to obtain the silk fibroin which is degummed silk or cooked silk.
(4) Dyeing and fixing color: dyeing the degummed silk obtained in the step (3), and treating the degummed silk by using a color fixing agent after dyeing; the color fixing agent is an aldehyde-free color fixing agent, and the addition amount of the color fixing agent KS is 10-40 g/L.
The dyeing process comprises the following steps: 10g/L of active dye, namely sodium phosphate, at a bath ratio of 40:1 and 50 ℃ for 10-20 min, and then 20g/L of sodium chloride is added. The reactive dye is reactive deep blue KM-GR, or reactive dyes with other colors can achieve the same effect.
The color fixing process comprises the following steps: and (3) soaking and fixing the color fixing agent KS for 30min at the temperature of 60-65 ℃, and then washing with water.
(5) Repairing: and (4) lubricating the degummed silk dyed in the step (4) by using a repairing agent.
The repairing process comprises the following steps: and soaking the dyed degummed silk in a repairing solution prepared by a repairing agent for 30-60 min, taking out, washing with water and drying. The repairing agent is formed by mixing hydroxyethyl cellulose and triethanolamine according to the mass ratio of 1: 1-2.5, and then adding the mixture into water, wherein the mass ratio of the addition amount to the addition amount of the color fixing agent is 1: 1.
(6) Weaving: and (3) doubling and twisting the degummed silk subjected to the lubricating treatment in the step (5), weaving and processing the degummed silk into warp and weft, then warping and rolling the silk subjected to doubling and twisting, and interweaving the warp and the weft to form a silk fabric.
(7) Printing: and (4) printing the silk fabric dyed in the step (6), finishing the printed silk fabric by using a chemical agent, and finishing to form a silk product.
The doubling in the technical scheme of the invention refers to a processing process of combining two or more monofilaments into one folded yarn or combining two or more folded yarns into one composite folded yarn.
The twisting is to twist the silk thread, which improves the strength and the wear resistance of the silk thread, reduces the fuzzing or the broken ends of the silk thread, increases the elasticity of the fabric, enables the surface of the fabric to have the anti-folding capability and enables the surface of the fabric to have soft luster.
The technical solution of the present invention is further illustrated by the following specific examples.
Example 1
Fresh silkworm cocoon drying → reeling → degumming → dyeing → fixation → repair → doubling → twisting → re-twisting → shaping → tube-forming → warping → weaving → printing → finished product, wherein. The warp density is 80/cm, the weft density is 40/cm, the addition amount of the color fixing agent is 15g/L, and the repairing agent and the color fixing agent are added in equal proportion.
In examples 2 to 6, the amounts of the fixing agents KS added were 10g/L, 15g/L, 20g/L, 25g/L and 30g/L, and 40g/L was the same as in example 1.
The comparative example 1 was not supplemented with the fixing agent KS and the repairing process was not carried out, and the rest was the same as example 1.
Comparative example 2 was conducted without any repair process, and the rest was the same as example 1.
Comparative example 3 the repair process was performed after the silk product was completed, and the rest was the same as in example 1.
The friction coefficient, the brushing fastness and the soaping fastness of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 3 were respectively subjected to performance tests.
And determining the dry and wet rubbing fastness of the dyed finished fabric according to a GB/T3920-97 printed cloth rubbing fastness test method, and visually observing and grading according to the GB251-95 dyeing fastness staining sample card.
The soaping fastness is determined according to a GB/T3920-97 soaping fastness test method for printing and dyeing, and is visually observed and rated according to the GB250-95 color change gray sample card and the GB251-95 color fastness staining sample card.
The brushing fastness is determined according to a GB/T3920-97 printing and dyeing cloth brushing fastness test method.
See Table 1 for comparison of the respective performances of examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 3.
The invention carries out comparison by the embodiment with and without the addition of the repairing agent and respectively detects the dry/wet friction coefficient, obviously, the friction coefficient after the fixing and repairing processes is obviously superior to that of the comparison example and also superior to that of the repairing process after weaving. In particular, the friction coefficient and the soaping level were improved as compared with those of example 1 and comparative example 2.
From the analysis of the detection results of the embodiments 1 to 6, the embodiments 4 and 5 have better effects, and the color fixing effect is more ideal when the addition amount of the color fixing agent is 25 to 30g/L, wherein 25g/L is the best in the embodiment 4. The color fixing agent is added in an excessive amount to float on the surface of silk, and when the repairing process is carried out, the color fixing agent KS is complexed with triethanolamine in the repairing agent to keep the surface of the silk smooth and enable the color not to easily fall off, but the color fixing agent floating on the surface cannot be fixed on the surface of silk fibroin after being complexed with the triethanolamine, so that the color fixing agent and the repairing agent are very easy to remove in the soaping and rubbing processes, and the soaping fastness and the brushing fastness are firstly increased and then reduced along with the increase of the color fixing agent.
TABLE 1 comparison of Performance between examples 1 to 5 and comparative examples 1 to 3
At the same time, it can also be seen that the repair process is not a separate process, but is integrated with the fixation process, which enhances the binding force by complexation of chemical substances, i.e. chemical bonding forces. Thereby enhancing the elution force of silk products.
In the process step of the comparison example 3, after the manual weaving, the binding force between triethanolamine in the repairing agent and the color fixing agent KS is reduced due to a certain acting force on the surface of the silk fibroin during the weaving process, so that the washing resistance is reduced.
The above description of the disclosed embodiments is provided to enable any person skilled in the art to make or use the invention, and is not intended to be exhaustive, and various modifications to these embodiments will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art, and the general principles defined herein may be implemented in other embodiments without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Thus, the present invention is not intended to be limited to the embodiments shown herein but is to be accorded the widest scope consistent with the principles and novel features disclosed herein.
Claims (9)
1. An ancient silk weaving process is characterized by comprising the steps of degumming, dyeing, color fixing, repairing and weaving in sequence; wherein the degumming process comprises degumming in a boiling water bath and then in an acid water bath to obtain the silk fibroin; the dyeing process comprises the steps of dyeing by adopting reactive dye; the color fixing process comprises the steps of fixing the color of dyed silk fibroin by using a color fixing agent; and the repairing process comprises the step of lubricating the fixed silk fibroin by using a repairing agent.
2. The ancient silk weaving process according to claim 1, wherein the degumming process comprises immersing raw silk in boiling water, boiling for 3-4 h, and standing at constant temperature for 30-60 min; and removing raw silk, putting the raw silk into a constant-temperature water bath with the pH value of 5-6, standing for 30-90 min, taking out the raw silk, and washing the raw silk with water to obtain the silk fibroin fiber.
3. The process of ancient silk weaving of claim 1 wherein the fixing agent is formaldehyde-free fixing agent KS.
4. The ancient silk weaving process of claim 1, wherein the repairing agent is a mixture of hydroxyethyl cellulose and triethanolamine, and the mass ratio of the hydroxyethyl cellulose to the triethanolamine is 1: 1-2.5.
5. The ancient silk weaving process of claim 4, wherein the mass ratio of the addition amount of the repairing agent to the addition amount of the fixing agent is 1: 1.
6. The process of weaving silk by the ancient method of claim 1, wherein the dye is a reactive dye.
7. The ancient silk weaving process according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized by comprising the specific steps of:
(1) and (3) drying: drying fresh cocoons into semi-dry cocoons, and drying to obtain dry cocoons;
(2) reeling silk: performing cocoon cooking treatment on the dried silkworm cocoons, after the cocoon cooking is finished, extracting silks in the silkworm cocoons subjected to cocoon cooking through a silk reeling machine, and combining a plurality of silks into raw silks;
(3) degumming: immersing the product obtained in the step (2) in boiling water, boiling for 3-4 h, and standing at constant temperature for 30-60 min; removing raw silk, putting the raw silk into a constant-temperature water bath with the pH value of 5-6, standing for 30-90 min, taking out the raw silk, and washing the raw silk with water to obtain silk fibroin, namely degummed silk;
(4) dyeing and fixing color: dyeing the degummed silk obtained in the step (3), and treating the degummed silk by using a color fixing agent after dyeing;
(5) repairing: lubricating the degummed silk dyed and fixed in the step (4) by using a repairing agent;
(6) weaving: doubling and twisting the degummed silk lubricated in the step (5), weaving and processing the degummed silk into warp and weft, then warping and rolling the silk doubled and twisted, and interweaving the warp and the weft to form a silk fabric;
(7) printing: and (4) printing the silk fabric dyed in the step (6), finishing the printed silk fabric by using a chemical agent, and finishing to form silk.
8. The ancient silk weaving process of claim 7, wherein the drying in step (1) comprises drying fresh cocoons at a high temperature of 90-100 ℃ to semi-dry cocoons with a water content of 50-70%; and (4) after the semi-dry cocoons are stored for 3-4 days, drying the semi-dry cocoons at the temperature of 80-90 ℃ again to form dry cocoons.
9. The ancient silk weaving process of claim 7, wherein in the step (5), the repairing agent is obtained by mixing hydroxyethyl cellulose and triethanolamine according to a ratio of 1: 1-2.5, adding the mixture into water to form a repairing solution, wherein the adding amount of the repairing solution and the adding amount of the color fixing agent are 1:1, and soaking the dyed and color-fixed degummed silk in the repairing solution for 30-60 min.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202111259220.2A CN113897797B (en) | 2021-10-28 | 2021-10-28 | Ancient silk weaving process |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202111259220.2A CN113897797B (en) | 2021-10-28 | 2021-10-28 | Ancient silk weaving process |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN113897797A true CN113897797A (en) | 2022-01-07 |
| CN113897797B CN113897797B (en) | 2023-10-03 |
Family
ID=79027232
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202111259220.2A Active CN113897797B (en) | 2021-10-28 | 2021-10-28 | Ancient silk weaving process |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (1) | CN113897797B (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN115110325A (en) * | 2022-07-15 | 2022-09-27 | 苏州正飞贸易有限公司 | Silk printing and dyeing process containing oracle character pattern |
| CN115627646A (en) * | 2022-11-03 | 2023-01-20 | 宁波大学 | Alkaline agent printing degumming process |
Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO1997031147A1 (en) * | 1996-02-23 | 1997-08-28 | Kanehisa Inc. | Process for producing woven or knitted fabric from yarn-dyed raw silk and woven or knitted fabric thus produced |
| CN101260621A (en) * | 2008-04-15 | 2008-09-10 | 达利(中国)有限公司 | Process for cotton reactive dye applying in silk broadcloth dying |
| CN102492138A (en) * | 2011-12-06 | 2012-06-13 | 西安工程大学 | Method for preparing polyamine-epichlorohydrin color fixing agent |
| CN107476089A (en) * | 2017-08-14 | 2017-12-15 | 盐城福汇纺织有限公司 | A kind of tussah silk knitting cloth constant temperature dyeing technique |
| CN108004806A (en) * | 2017-12-15 | 2018-05-08 | 常熟市乐德维织造有限公司 | The dyeing and finishing technology of weaving face fabric |
| CN108625169A (en) * | 2018-05-22 | 2018-10-09 | 杭州富强丝绸有限公司 | Full real-silk dyed warp knit preparation process |
-
2021
- 2021-10-28 CN CN202111259220.2A patent/CN113897797B/en active Active
Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO1997031147A1 (en) * | 1996-02-23 | 1997-08-28 | Kanehisa Inc. | Process for producing woven or knitted fabric from yarn-dyed raw silk and woven or knitted fabric thus produced |
| CN101260621A (en) * | 2008-04-15 | 2008-09-10 | 达利(中国)有限公司 | Process for cotton reactive dye applying in silk broadcloth dying |
| CN102492138A (en) * | 2011-12-06 | 2012-06-13 | 西安工程大学 | Method for preparing polyamine-epichlorohydrin color fixing agent |
| CN107476089A (en) * | 2017-08-14 | 2017-12-15 | 盐城福汇纺织有限公司 | A kind of tussah silk knitting cloth constant temperature dyeing technique |
| CN108004806A (en) * | 2017-12-15 | 2018-05-08 | 常熟市乐德维织造有限公司 | The dyeing and finishing technology of weaving face fabric |
| CN108625169A (en) * | 2018-05-22 | 2018-10-09 | 杭州富强丝绸有限公司 | Full real-silk dyed warp knit preparation process |
Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN115110325A (en) * | 2022-07-15 | 2022-09-27 | 苏州正飞贸易有限公司 | Silk printing and dyeing process containing oracle character pattern |
| CN115627646A (en) * | 2022-11-03 | 2023-01-20 | 宁波大学 | Alkaline agent printing degumming process |
| CN115627646B (en) * | 2022-11-03 | 2024-03-26 | 宁波大学 | Alkaline agent printing degumming process |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN113897797B (en) | 2023-10-03 |
Similar Documents
| Publication | Publication Date | Title |
|---|---|---|
| CN1865559B (en) | Milk protein fiber or its filament or its blended fabric weaving and dyeing method | |
| Karmakar | Chemical technology in the pre-treatment processes of textiles | |
| CN103835048B (en) | Low-wool-content multi-component chemical fiber blended fabric | |
| CN102260949B (en) | Preparation method of fabric woven by polyester-viscose vortex spinning machine | |
| CN102199830B (en) | Manufacturing process of bamboo fiber and mulberry silk interwoven color woven taffeta | |
| CN102242434B (en) | Cation viscose vortex spun woven fabric and preparation method thereof | |
| CN113897797B (en) | Ancient silk weaving process | |
| CN1776057A (en) | High-grad mercerized rapid-drying cotton-terylene fabric | |
| CN102260950A (en) | Fabric woven by rayon vortex spinning machine and preparation method thereof | |
| CN100594267C (en) | Xiyurong clothing leather base cloth manufacturing method | |
| CN100422414C (en) | Polyurethane fibre/real silk crepe knit fabric and preparation process thereof | |
| CN100999848A (en) | Veloutine fabric using wool and modified dacron miced spinning and tech. ethereof | |
| CN107557954A (en) | A kind of uvioresistant water absorbent quick-drying skin toner and its production technology | |
| CN108547034B (en) | High shape-preserving constant-temperature health-care fabric and production method thereof | |
| CN112553927B (en) | Chitin silk fabric and processing technology thereof | |
| CN109680387A (en) | A kind of preparation method with dyeing Bicolor-effect fabric | |
| CN113481740A (en) | Dyed jean fabric and preparation method thereof | |
| CN103215713B (en) | Production method of bastose wet spinning yarn | |
| CN112941937A (en) | Ancient silk process | |
| CN102242444B (en) | Polyester vortex spun woven fabric and preparation method thereof | |
| Trivedy et al. | Production of Pink Colored Silk Fabric Dyed Using a" Green" Dye-Fed Silkworm Approach. | |
| CN105200792A (en) | Preparation method of fabric with skin care effect | |
| CN115369548A (en) | Active vintage color jean fabric and production process thereof | |
| CN111020805A (en) | Preparation method of denim fabric | |
| CN1209513C (en) | Method of producing composite fibre dress shell fabric |
Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| PB01 | Publication | ||
| PB01 | Publication | ||
| SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
| SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
| GR01 | Patent grant | ||
| GR01 | Patent grant |