CN1301356C - 莫代尔织物的染色和整理 - Google Patents

莫代尔织物的染色和整理 Download PDF

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CN1301356C
CN1301356C CNB038023539A CN03802353A CN1301356C CN 1301356 C CN1301356 C CN 1301356C CN B038023539 A CNB038023539 A CN B038023539A CN 03802353 A CN03802353 A CN 03802353A CN 1301356 C CN1301356 C CN 1301356C
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J·M·泰勒
G·W·科林斯
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Abstract

通过用一种酸或如氯化镁等酸供体浸渍织物，在空气中热处理该经过浸渍的织物以激活该酸或酸供体，然后采用喷射染色或滚动鼓转等剧烈条件对该织物进行染色，洗涤和干燥，使一种莫代尔织物产生光洁的，触感柔软的表面整理效果。采用这个方法，能使由高湿模量莫代尔纤维或波里诺西克纤维制成的织物产生光洁的，触感柔软的整理效果，优选是一种桃皮触感的整理效果。

Description

莫代尔织物的染色和整理
发明领域
本发明涉及一种对某些再生纤维素织物，特别是莫代尔织物，进行染色和整理的过程。
在本说明书中，术语“莫代尔织物”是指一种由短纤维纱机织或针织而成的织物，该短纤维纱中包含莫代尔型再生纤维素纤维。国际标准ISO 2076：1999(E)中定义了莫代尔纤维，是高湿模量，高抗断强度的由特定粘胶和再生浴组合物制成的的再生纤维素纤维，在该纤维拉伸凝结时能达到更高程度的分子取向。另一种再生的莫代尔型纤维素纤维也具有高湿模量和高抗断强度，被称为波里诺西克纤维，是由Tachikawa Company在日本研发的。莫代尔纤维和波里诺西克纤维通常都被认为是高湿模量(HWM)纤维，因为高湿模量是它们相比普通粘胶纤维的明显特征。
所用短纤维纱可以只包含莫代尔型纤维或是莫代尔型纤维与一种或多种其他种类的纤维，例如棉，亚麻，聚酯和尼龙，的混合物。而且，该织物还可以包含莫代尔型纤维之外的纱，例如上述其他种类纤维的纱及其混合。
通过将纤维素形成一种可溶性化学衍生物，然后将这种衍生物的一种溶液通过一个喷丝板挤压进入一个浴中，能将挤出物再生成纤维素纤维，通过这种方法制成再生的纤维素纤维。粘胶纤维就是以这种方式制造的。采用特别的喷丝条件和配方，制成被称为是莫代尔纤维和波里诺西克纤维的高湿模量再生纤维素纤维，这里统称其为莫代尔型纤维。
发明背景
莱塞尔纤维是溶纺纤维素纤维，不是再生的纤维素纤维(参见ISO 2076：1999(E))，最近已在商业中推出。莱塞尔纤维在剧烈的染色和整理过程中有原纤化倾向，人们已经作出很多努力来控制这种现象的出现。特别是，已经开发出一些处理方法，能除去在原纤化过程的第一阶段(所谓“一次原纤化”)中形成的较长的突出的纤维末端，如果不除去会在织物的表面上产生一种通常是毛面的起毛效果，从而破坏其外观。另一方面，这些处理方法促进在原纤化过程(所谓“二次原纤化”)中较短原纤维的形成。这些较短的原纤维产生一种具有“光洁”特征的表面整理效果，即基本不产生起毛效果，由于织物表面上存在的较短原纤维而具有一种柔软的触感，这被称为“触感柔软的整理效果”。在充分地形成这种较短的原纤维后，织物表面的柔软触感变得更明显，这种触感柔软的整理过程被称为“桃皮触感整理”。对莱塞尔纤维织物的这种处理过程的例子如WO 95/30043，WO 97/30204，和GB 2314568中所述。
在莫代尔型再生纤维素纤维中，莫代尔纤维本身比莱塞尔纤维更不易发生原纤化。虽然可以通过剧烈加工在这种莫代尔纤维上引起原纤化，但是要控制原纤化产生商业上可接受标准要求的光洁的，触感柔软的整理效果，被证明是困难的。波里诺西克纤维比莫代尔纤维更容易发生原纤化，但是，要控制原纤化产生要求的表面整理效果也是困难的。本发明的目的在于使莫代尔织物按商业标准重复产生一种光洁的，触感柔软的整理效果。
发明概述
本发明提供了一种生产经过染色和整理的莫代尔织物的方法，这种纤维织物具有光洁的，触感柔软的表面整理效果，这是通过染色，清洗和干燥步骤完成的，在至少一个步骤中对该织物施加剧烈的机械作用，其特征在于，在进行染色步骤之前，用一种酸或酸供体的水溶液均匀浸渍该织物，然后在空气中热处理，激活该酸或酸供体的反应，这种经过染色和整理的织物具有光洁的，触感柔软的表面整理效果。特别是，所获得的触感柔软的整理效果可以是一种桃皮触感的整理效果。
在莫代尔织物中产生原纤化所要求的剧烈机械作用被称为织物处理；包括在处理时对织物施加弯曲力和腐蚀力，通常结合有在织物上产生紊流流动的作用和设备的一些表面以不同速度沿织物移动的作用。例如在织物喷射染色机和滚动鼓转机中所遇到的紊流流动作用，在较短处理时间内产生这种原纤化是更有效的。
在喷射染色或滚动鼓转等剧烈机械处理步骤之后，本发明方法使经过染色的莫代尔织物具有光洁的，触感柔软的整理效果的能力具有重要的商业价值。这意味着，该织物可以在现有设备上使用常规过程进行处理，而无须延长处理时间。例如，可以在一种喷射染色机中采用六小时或更短时间的染色周期。合适的喷射染色机包括被称为Thies Ecosoft，Thies Soft TRD，GastonCounty Futura，和Hisaka Circular CUT-SL的机器。
莫代尔织物用的常规染料和染料配方可以用于本发明的方法中，包括那些基于直接染料，还原染料，硫化染料和活性染料的配方。
除了应用于一段长度的机织和针织莫代尔织物之外，本发明的方法还能用于由莫代尔织物制成的布匹和衣服的染色和整理。本发明方法用于莫代尔织物所制衣服的优点是，衣服表面能获得理想的光洁，触感柔软的整理效果。
在将莫代尔织物转变成布匹或衣服之前，可以对其应用这种酸或酸供体的溶液，并对其进行后续的热处理步骤。但是，也可以在转变成布匹或衣服之后应用。
已经发现，在莫代尔织物上产生的光洁，触感柔软的整理效果能在后续处理中受到保护，防止其被破坏。特别是，由这种染色的织物制成的制品，例如衣服或其他布匹，能够在重复洗涤周期之后仍能保持它们光洁的，触感柔软的整理效果。
这种酸或酸供体的溶液优选是水溶液。可以采用任何将液体施加到织物上的常规技术，用这种溶液均匀浸渍织物。可以将织物沿长度方向平幅通过浸轧水溶液，这种溶液的纤维吸液率通常是基于织物重量的65％到80％。可以将衣服和布匹浸在鼓式洗涤机等容器的溶液中。
这种酸或酸供体优选是一种弱酸，它能在织物整理过程中作为树脂的催化剂。通常，这些弱酸的pH值大于约3。合适的酸或酸供体包括有机酸，例如柠檬酸和酒石酸，和路易斯酸。氯化镁，氯化铵，氯化锌，氟硼酸锌和硝酸锌是合适的弱酸或酸供体。也可以使用两种或多种这些化合物的混合物，事实上，用于树脂整理的酸催化剂的制造厂家有时会使用其催化剂配方的混合物。一种可用于本发明方法的市售产品例子是Condensol FB(BASF AG商标)，这是包含氯化镁和氟硼酸锌混合物的一种酸催化剂。
这种酸或酸供体的优选溶液浓度取决于所用的具体酸或酸供体，对于高活性的酸或酸供体材料应使用较低浓度以防止对织物产生不好的酸损伤，对低活性材料的酸或酸供体材料则使用较高浓度。对市售织物产品而言，制造商给出了用于树脂整理过程的建议浓度，总的来说，这种浓度可以用于本发明的方法中。使用有机酸时的浓度范围是约2到20克/升，例如柠檬酸是约4到6克/升。以4克/升浓度应用的柠檬酸具有3.2的pH值。活性较小的酸或酸供体可以使用较高的浓度，例如高达约40克/升。氯化镁应用浓度是20克/升，其pH值是7.5。所有情况下，最好避免使用不必要的高浓度，以防止对织物产生不必要的酸损伤，并使化学品用量降至最低。
然后将经过浸渍的织物在空气中，例如在热空气烘箱中，进行热处理。可以先将其在一个另外的步骤中进行干燥，但是优选这个干燥步骤只是所述的热处理步骤的初始阶段。优选将莫代尔织物平辐进行处理，例如在展幅机上通过一个加热炉。热处理时选择的气氛温度要能有效地引发所用具体酸或酸供体的反应。总的来说，120℃到220℃的范围是合适的，更优选是140℃到200℃范围。而且，优选的处理时间取决于所用的具体酸或酸供体，但是通常在30秒到5分钟范围内。通过清洗经过热处理的织物，除去所有的残余酸，然后再次干燥。
如果莫代尔织物的纱已经上过浆或经润滑以方便机织或针织的话，则优选将该织物进行脱浆或冲洗操作，通常是在用酸或酸供体进行浸渍之前进行的。这可以是一种常规操作，是将织物通过一个冲洗槽以除去浆液或润滑剂。如果要求对织物进行预漂白，则优选在用酸或酸供体浸渍之前进行。
对该织物的另一种可能的处理是用氢氧化钠水溶液进行所谓苛化处理。这个处理应在用酸或酸供体浸渍以及随后的热处理之后进行，但应在染色步骤之前进行。进行苛化能提高该织物在潮湿状态下的柔软性。苛化还能增强该织物的染色性，染色性会被酸处理所抑制，苛化还能加强织物结构，这有助于减轻其在后续潮湿处理中发生收缩的趋势。苛化之后，应当用热水，然后用冷水彻底冲洗该织物，除去残余的苛性钠。
清洗涤除去掉所有未固定着色的染料后，可以对经过染色的织物进行一种或多种常规整理处理，包括采用常规浸轧操作的柔软整理。这可以在染色和清洗过程之后进行，其间无须对织物进行干燥。如果需要进行湿鼓转处理来产生触感柔软的整理效果的话，可以在染色之后在滚动鼓转机中进行，或者与任何柔软整理处理一起进行或在柔软整理之后进行。然后，对经过整理的织物进行最后干燥，例如，在一个转筒干燥机中进行。
本发明优选实施方式
通过以下一些实施例说明本发明：
实施例1
以2乘1斜纹编织方法，用包含100％高湿模量的1.3分特莫代尔纤维(HWM莫代尔纤维ex Lenzing AG)的支数是1/20s Ne的纱，制成单位重量是180gsm(克/平方米)的莫代尔纤维机织织物。
用一种含有非离子性洗涤剂和碳酸钠的冲刷水溶液，在90℃下冲刷平幅织物，然后在展幅机上100℃烘干。
将一半的经过冲刷的织物作为对照，另一半用14克/升氯化镁六水合物和1.0克/升润湿剂Kieralon JET(Kieralon是BASF AG的一种商标)的水溶液浸轧浸渍，纤维吸液率是80％。将经过浸渍的织物展开，110℃烘干，然后在空气中190℃热处理50秒。分别对经过处理的织物和对照织物使用同样的方法进行染色和整理。染色是在一台Gaston County Futura喷射染色机中，用一种染色水溶液处理6小时，该染色液中包含：
4.0％owf(占织物重量)的Procion H-EXL染料(Procion是Dystar AG的一种商标)，
60克/升硫酸钠，
20克/升苏打粉。
用水冲洗经过染色的织物，除去未固定着色的染料，在40℃用2.0％owf的Edunine CSA水溶液(Edunine是Uniqema的一种商标)进行软化，然后在Thies Rototumbler织物鼓转机中转动干燥。
对照织物没有发生原纤化，具有普通的平滑表面。经过处理的织物产生光洁的，触感柔软的整理效果。
实施例2
以2乘1斜纹编织方法，用包含100％高湿模量的1.3分特莫代尔型纤维(HWM莫代尔纤维ex Lenzing AG)的支数是1/20s Ne的纱，制成单位重量是180gsm的莫代尔机织织物。
用一种含有非离子性洗涤剂和碳酸钠的冲刷水溶液，在90℃下冲刷平幅织物，然后在展幅机上100℃烘干。
然后将浓度是4.0克/升的柠檬酸水溶液用浸轧机以75％吸液率均匀挤压进入该退了浆的织物中，对此经过退浆的织物进行均匀浸渍。烘干经过浸渍的织物，在空气中160℃在展幅机上热处理5.0分钟。用水彻底冲洗并烘干后，可以对经过处理的织物进行染色。
在Thies Ecosoft Plus喷射染色机中进行染色。除了经过处理的织物以外，还对同样规格的未经处理但退了浆的对照织物也按照以上所述进行染色和整理。
所用染色方法是一种热排风泳移染色方法，具体是用一种染色水溶液处理6小时，该染色液中包含：
4.0％owf的Procion Navy H-EXL染料，
60克/升硫酸钠，
20克/升苏打粉。
用水冲洗后，在40℃下用含20％owf的软化整理剂Edunine CSA的水溶液对经过染色的织物进行处理，然后在织物绳式鼓转机(Biancalani Aero 1000)中进行转动干燥。经过染色的对照织物没有发生原纤化，具有普通的平滑表面。经过处理的织物则产生一定程度的较短二次原纤化，形成具有桃皮触感整理特征的光洁，触感柔软的表面。
实施例3
用支数是1/20s Ne的纱制成一种双面双罗纹的莫代尔针织物。这种纱中包含以70∶30重量比混合的波里诺西克纤维和聚酯纤维，其中波里诺西克纤维是1.7分特和38毫米短纤维(Junalon纤维ex Fujibo)，聚酯纤维是1.5分特和38毫米短纤维(Trevira 140型纤维ex Hoechst AG)。
将该织物平幅展开并分成两部分，一部分作为未经处理的对照，另一部分用含有14克/升氯化镁和1.0％Kieralon JET的水溶液浸轧浸渍，纤维吸液率是80％。将经过浸渍的织物在展幅机上在空气中110℃烘干，然后在空气中190℃热处理45秒。
分别对经过处理的织物和对照织物进行冲洗，染色，软化和干燥处理。用非离子性洗涤剂和碳酸钠的水溶液在90℃冲洗30分钟。然后用水冲洗织物，再在喷射染色机中如实施例1所述，使用相同的染色液配方染色6小时，但是染料浓度是3.0％owf。
用水冲洗后，在40℃用2.0％owf的软化整理剂Sandoperm MEJ水溶液(Sandoperm是Clariant AG的一种商标)进行处理，然后在Biancalani Aero1000织物绳式鼓转机中转动干燥。
经过染色的对照织物具有无光的外观，这是由不受控的原纤化所产生的。按照本发明所述经过处理的织物具有柔软的桃皮触感的整理效果，表现出均匀光洁的外观，没有较长的原纤维，也没有可见的皱痕。

Claims (14)

1.一种制造具有光洁的、触感柔软的表面整理效果的经过染色和整理的莫代尔织物的方法，它通过染色、洗涤和干燥步骤进行，在至少一个步骤中对该织物施加剧烈机械作用，其特征在于，在进行染色步骤之前，用一种pH值大于3的弱酸的水溶液均匀浸渍该织物，然后在空气中在140-220℃的温度下热处理以激活该弱酸的作用，这样，经过染色和整理的织物就具有光洁的、触感柔软的表面整理效果。
2.如权利要求1所述的一种方法，其特征在于该莫代尔织物包含莫代尔纤维。
3.如权利要求1所述的一种方法，其特征在于该莫代尔织物包括波里诺西克纤维。
4.如权利要求1到3中任一项所述的一种方法，其特征在于该莫代尔织物进行染色时，对其施加剧烈的机械作用。
5.如权利要求4所述的一种方法，其特征在于该莫代尔织物在一种喷射染色机中进行染色。
6.如权利要求1-3中任一项所述的方法，其特征在于该经过染色的织物在一种滚动鼓转机中进行洗涤和/或干燥。
7.如权利要求1-3中任一项所述的方法，其特征在于该弱酸在水溶液中的使用浓度高达40克/升。
8.如权利要求1-3中任一项所述的方法，其特征在于该弱酸是氯化镁。
9.如权利要求1-3中任一项所述的方法，其特征在于该弱酸是有机酸，在水溶液中的使用浓度是2到20克/升。
10.如权利要求1-3中任一项所述的方法，其特征在于该弱酸是柠檬酸。
11.如权利要求10所述一种方法，其特征在于该柠檬酸在水溶液中的使用浓度是4到6克/升。
12.如权利要求1-3中任一项所述的方法，其特征在于所述的热处理温度在140℃到200℃范围内。
13.如权利要求1-3中任一项所述的方法，其特征在于至少在染色步骤中，该莫代尔织物是一种衣服。
14.如权利要求1-3中任一项所述的方法，其特征在于在用弱酸浸渍和后续热处理步骤之后，但是在染色步骤之前，对该莫代尔织物进行苛化处理。
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