CN1246162A - Stable double covered elastic yarn, process for making same, and fabric comprising same - Google Patents

Stable double covered elastic yarn, process for making same, and fabric comprising same Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1246162A
CN1246162A CN98802149A CN98802149A CN1246162A CN 1246162 A CN1246162 A CN 1246162A CN 98802149 A CN98802149 A CN 98802149A CN 98802149 A CN98802149 A CN 98802149A CN 1246162 A CN1246162 A CN 1246162A
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yarn
wrap
outer layer
spandex
yarns
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CN98802149A
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CN1109784C (en
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柳川濑武
林升一
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Du Pont Toray Co Ltd
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Du Pont Toray Co Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

A double-covered yarn based on a spandex core having a heat set of at least 50 % and two sheath yarns wound in the same direction, a process for the preparation of such yarn and fabrics produced therefrom, are provided.

Description

Stable double covered elastic, its processing method and comprise the fabric of this yarn
Background of invention
Invention field
The present invention relates to stable double covered elastic, the processing method of this yarn and the fabric that comprises this yarn more specifically, the present invention relates to a kind of yarn that identical skin coats twist direction that has.
Background technology is discussed
Covered elastomeric yarn, as being wrapped in by a non-resilient filament yarn or non-resilient staple fibre yarn on the elasticity heart yarn and the single wrap yarn that obtains and on single wrap yarn, further twine second non-resilient filament yarn again or non-resilient staple fibre yarn and two wrap yarns of obtaining are used on the various apparel applications.Recently, this class covered elastomeric yarn has been used for requiring little elasticity woven to draftability.
The disclosed patent application NO:06-049736 of Japan (1994) discloses the use of elastic polyurethane fiber in stretch woven fabrics that coats with multifilament, wherein, multifilament is 1 to 5 with the weight ratio of elastomeric yarn, that is to say, elastomeric yarn is about 50~about 80% of a wrap yarn weight.But in this disclosure, when coating is staple fibre yarn with yarn, the filoplume that is produced, problems such as stability and feel also are not resolved.
In addition, the typical elastic fabric of making of conventional elastomer polyurethane fiber is weak always, but shows damp and hot shape stability difference and can shrink when washing.Wrap yarn also can demonstrate unstability, shows that heart yarn and outer layer yarn can be shifted each other, therefore causes elastomeric yarn to skid off with heart yarn when the fabric cutting edge and appears the coating yarn.This yarn also can form filoplume and become the balling-up pile fabric or will crimping with regard to knit product.In order to strengthen hydrothermal stability, can adopt the method that improves heat-set temperature, but but at the fiber that uses thermal degradation, as hair, polyacrylonitrile based staple fibre yarn during as outer layer yarn, this class covered elastomeric yarn just can not bear 100 ℃ or higher damp and hot temperature or 160 ℃ or higher xeothermic temperature when dyeing and arrangement, because can lose soft hand feeling and reduce fabric intensity.So also need a kind of stable covered elastomeric yarn.
Summary of the invention
Double covered elastic of the present invention consists essentially of:
SPANDEX (Spandex, spandex) heart yarn, wherein SPANDEX has 50% heat setting at least;
First outer layer yarn that is wrapped on the SPANDEX forms single wrap yarn, and its content is not more than 40% of two wrap yarn gross weights; With
Be wrapped in second outer layer yarn on single wrap yarn;
Wherein, first and second outer layer yarns all twine with equidirectional.
The processing method of double covered elastic of the present invention may further comprise the steps:
A kind of SPADEX of the package of supplying is provided, and it has 50% heat setting at least;
At this SPANDEX of about 100%~250% scope in-draw;
The SPANDEX that coats this stretching with first outer layer yarn forms single wrap yarn;
Coat this single wrap yarn with second outer layer yarn, its winding direction is identical with the winding direction of first outer layer yarn, forms two wrap yarns, and wherein, the content of single wrap yarn is not more than 40% of two wrap yarn weight; With
Two wrap yarns are carried out heat setting.
Woven fabric of the present invention comprises above-mentioned two wrap yarns, or only as warp thread or only as weft yarn.Detailed Description Of The Invention
Used " SPANDEX " of the present invention is meant the fiber of being made by the fine material of a kind of one-tenth of long-chain synthetic elastomer of the polyurethane segment that comprises 85% weight at least.The fiber number that is applicable to the SPANDEX of the two wrap yarns of processing the present invention is about 20~166decitex (dtex) (about 18~150denier (dawn)).
" outer layer yarn " is meant and comprises long filament, boundling staple fibre or staple fibre yarn, or the two a kind of relative non-elastic yarn of long filament and short fiber." first outer layer yarn " is meant that being wrapped in SPANDEX goes up the outer layer yarn that forms single wrap yarn." second outer layer yarn " is meant and is wrapped in the outer layer yarn that forms two wrap yarns on single wrap yarn.
The long filament that is fit to do outer layer yarn comprises polyester, nylon, acrylic fiber, artificial silk, acetate fiber, real silk etc.The staple fibre that is fit to comprises synthetic fiber, as polyester, nylon, acrylic fiber, artificial silk, acetate fiber, and natural fabric, as cotton, hair etc. or its blended yarn.Long filament such as Tynex are preferably used as first outer layer yarn.Hair and polyacrylonitrile based staple fibre are preferably used as second outer layer yarn.
" heat setting " is meant that being stretched to elongation at SPANDEX is to heat-treat under 100% the condition, removes stretching then, and SPANDEX is returned to a length longer than raw footage.For example, the long SPANDEX of 10cm heats up after being stretched to 20cm, removes then and heats up and stretch, if SPANDEX is returned to the long length of 15cm, just saying so has 50% heat setting.
" fluffing " is meant the loose fiber head of stretching from two wrap yarns, can cause knitting or woven in cause the undesirable fibrous yarn of trouble.
In order to obtain stable two wrap yarns of the present invention, this yarn is to process under identical twist direction at first and second outer layer yarns to obtain.The SPANDEX core fibre has 50% setting at least, preferably has 55% setting at least, can by under 100% elongation in 100 ℃ of water heat of immersion handle and to obtain in 60 minutes.Of the present invention pair of wrap yarn is to use dry heat-setting in many application, and SPANDEX has 50% setting at least 140 ℃ of dry heat treatment after 1 minute under 100% elongation that stretches, preferably have 55% setting at least.
In stable two wrap yarns of the present invention, first and second outer layer yarns twine with identical direction, and perhaps the two all twines with the Z direction, and perhaps the two all twines with the S direction.In this case, the bulkiness of yarn (expansion) is very little, coat closely, and filoplume is also entwined inside.Therefore, this also can make the minimizing of the in bond and overlength filoplume number of filoplume.Owing to do in the fabric of warp thread at single wool yarn, wool yarn is generally without starching, if the filoplume of hair wrap yarn can not be bound in the yarn, weaving so will be very difficult.Because filoplume is bound in the yarn of the present invention, this yarn is only made warp thread, can be without starching when woven.This is useful especially when making the slim elastic fabric of wearing spring and summer, yet single in this case wrap yarn preferably will have quite high public number as 1/40 public (40 public yarns of sub-thread).Of the present invention pair of wrap yarn also can only be made weft yarn satisfactorily or not only make weft yarn but also make warp thread and use.
On the contrary, when two kinds of outer layer yarn twist directions not simultaneously, when coating with second outer layer yarn, the twist of first outer layer yarn will backtwisting, the two wrap yarns that obtain are bulk, filoplume increases, and especially can increase the overlength filoplume.In addition, different twist directions also can cause first outer layer yarn to be exposed at partially on the surface of yarn.
Of the present invention pair of wrap yarn contains the single wrap yarn that is not more than 40% weight, and preferred single wrap yarn weight is not more than 30% of two wrap yarn weight, more preferably is not more than 25%.Make comparisons with two wrap yarns, if single wrap yarn exceeds above-mentioned limiting quantity, first outer layer yarn will expose on the surface of yarn or fabric, and this moment, fabric just had the feel of first outer layer yarn.In addition, if with hair is that second outer layer yarn is an example, this moment, topped wool fibre number on final products will reduce, and this can damage entwining of hair and cause many overlength filoplumes, cause the difficulty that this product is used, particularly all the more so when only making warp thread or weft yarn with this yarn.
In the yarn of the present invention, SPANDEX can constitute about 2~9% scope of two wrap yarn weight and preferably be about 2~5%.
Of the present invention pair of wrap yarn can be to carry out heat setting with silk and form, also can be with carrying out heat setting behind its knitting or woven one-tenth fabric.
In processing method of the present invention, have 50% setting at least, preferably have the SPANDEX of 55% setting at least, this can be by flooding 60 minutes in 100 ℃ of water under the 100% elongation condition or measuring in 1 minute 140 ℃ of dry heat treatment, take from supply of material package, stretch about 100%~250% then.This SPANDEX that is stretched twists with the fingers to be coated with every meter about 300~800 with first outer layer yarn and forms single wrap yarn.
Then, coat this single wrap yarn by the direction identical with first outer layer yarn with second outer layer yarn and form two wrap yarns, its content is not more than single wrap yarn of 40% weight.The twist factor of second outer layer yarn be about 80~130turns (sth. made by twisting)/m (rice)/ , preferably be about 90~130turns/m/
Figure A9880214900072
Preferably, single wrap yarn comprises and is not more than 30% of two wrap yarn weight, more preferably is not more than 25%.
Then, two wrap yarns carry out heat setting with silk and form, or with its knitting or woven one-tenth fabric this fabric of heat setting again.SPANDEX can not bounce back during tensile elongation when being coated less than it, so it will carry out heat setting under two wrap yarn extended states.Heat setting can be the wet heat setting (steam or water) under 80 ℃ or higher temperature, also can be the dry heat-setting under 110 ℃ or higher temperature.If allow less setting, the temperature that is adopted also can be hanged down so, but preferably at least 50% setting.But, preferred heat-set temperature shows the temperature higher a little (about below 20 ℃ as height) of maximum heat shrinkage stress than SPANDEX.When heat-set temperature is lower than the temperature of maximum heat shrinkage stress, stand afterwards under the situation that temperature is higher than this heat-set temperature, yarn will shrink.The preferred SPANDEX that uses has a maximum heat shrinkage stress in the yarn of the present invention in 110 ℃ ~ 150 ℃ xeothermic temperature.
The present invention further specifies by following example, but these examples are not to be used for limiting the scope of the invention.Scope of the present invention is defined by appended claim.Method of testing
The thermal shrinkage stress of SPANDEX is with thermal stress measuring instrument KE-2S " (Japanese Zhong Yuan spin KK make) be 0 at tension force, temperature is since 27 ℃~28 ℃ xeothermic heating mensuration down.With 10 SPANDEX is a branch of mensuration.
It is that grammes per square metre number by per 100 meters yarns calculates that the public affairs of covered elastomeric yarn are propped up (km/kg), and 100 meters yarn length is that the tension force at every yarn is under the situations of 20 grams, is that 1 meter reeling frame is measured by girth.
The filoplume number is that the filoplume of 10 meters long two wrap yarns is counted mensuration.
The ability of weaving of yarn is to evaluate with the plain weave product that 400rpm weaves with Suhl longevity gripper shuttle loom (Switzerland WINTERHUR) in example.Example
In all examples, first outer layer yarn all is that the nylon false twisting filament yarn and second outer layer yarn twine with the Z direction.After second outer layer yarn twined, two wrap yarns formalized this bobbin 30 minutes at 85 ℃ of steam heats on bobbin then.
In all examples, untrimmed fabric washs in 40 ℃ of water, under 120 ℃ of temperature on stenter dry 1 minute then, in reverse-flow dyeing machine, dyeed 45 minutes again with 95 ℃ of temperature, further under 120 ℃ of temperature on the stenter dry 1 minute, 100 ℃ of arrangements 45 minutes in decator at last.
In table, wrap yarn sample of the present invention represents that with Arabic alphabet non-comparative sample of the present invention is represented with capitalization.Example 1 and 2
In example 1 and 2, SPANDEX is Opelon T-178C (registration mark of the elastic polyurethane yarn that make Tokyo, Dong Li E.I.Du Pont Company), 20 decitex (18 dawn), extension at break be 410% and fracture strength be 1.19dN/tex (1.35g/d).Handling afterboarding in 60 minutes in 100 ℃ of water is 62%, and handling afterboarding in 1 minute down for 140 ℃ in dry state is 56%.The temperature of maximum heat shrinkage stress is about 120 ℃~140 ℃, and the maximum heat shrinkage stress of 10 SPANDEX is 2.28g.
When carrying out the coating of Z direction with first outer layer yarn, drafted 2.7 times of SPANDEX (elongation 170%).Second outer layer yarn is 1/40 public wool yarn, and the twist is that 569turns/m and twist factor are 90.
Only do that warp thread is woven to become cloth with example 1 and two wrap yarns of 2.Weft yarn is 1/40 public wool yarn, warp count be 28strands (root)/cm (centimetre) (72strands/inch (inch) and filling density are 25picks (latitude)/cm (64picks/inch).Example 3
The used SPANDEX of this example is T-178C Opelon , 28 decitex (25 dawn).When carrying out the coating of Z direction with first outer layer yarn, drafted 2.8 times of SPANDEX (elongation 180%).Second outer layer yarn is 1/32 public polyacrylonitrile based staple fibre yarn, and the twist is that 522turns/m and twist factor are 92.
Only make the woven one-tenth cloth of warp thread with this yarn.Weft yarn is 1/32 public polyacrylonitrile based staple fibre yarn, and warp count is that 25strands/cm rice (64strands/inch) and filling density are 22picks/cm (57picks/inch).Comparison example A
The preparation of two wrap yarns of this example is identical with example 2, but first outer layer yarn makes the twisting of first and second outer layer yarns coat direction antithesis with S direction twisting coating.Comparison example B
The used SPANDEX of this example is OpelonT -127C, 22decitex (20 dawn), extension at break be 560% and fracture strength be 1.06dN/tex (1.20g/d).Handle in 100 ℃ of water that the SPANDEX setting is low after 60 minutes, have only 21%, handling afterboarding in 1 minute down for 140 ℃ in dry state is 28%, outside the scope of the invention.The temperature of maximum heat shrinkage stress is about 170 ℃~180 ℃, and the maximum heat shrinkage stress of 10 SPANDEX is 2.28g.When coating with first outer layer yarn, drafted 2.8 times of SPANDEX (elongation 180%).Second outer layer yarn is 1/40 public wool yarn, and the twist is that 569turns/m and twist factor are 90.
Only make the woven one-tenth cloth of warp thread with double covered elastic.Weft yarn is 1/40 public wool yarn, and warp count is that 28strands/cm (72 strands/inch) and filling density are 25picks/cm (64picks/inch).Comparison example C
The used SPANDEX of this example is OpelonT -152C, 22decitex (20 dawn), extension at break be 510% and fracture strength be 0.97dN/tex(1.10g/d)。Handle in 100 ℃ of water that the SPANDEX setting is low after 60 minutes, be 33%, handling afterboarding in 1 minute down for 140 ℃ in dry state is 34%, outside the scope of the invention, the temperature of maximum heat shrinkage stress is about 160 ℃~170 ℃, and the maximum heat shrinkage stress of 10 SPANDEX is 2.89g.When coating with first outer layer yarn, drafted 2.8 times of SPANDEX (elongation 180%), second outer layer yarn is 1/40 public wool yarn, the twist is that 569turns/m and twist factor are 90.
Only make the woven one-tenth cloth of warp thread with double covered elastic.Weft yarn is 1/40 public wool yarn, and warp count is that 28strands/cm (72strands/inch) and filling density are 25picks/cm centimetre (64picks/inch).
The bells and whistles of the The Nomenclature Composition and Structure of Complexes of table 1 explanation yarn of the present invention (example 1,2 and 3) and comparison yarns (A, B, and C).
Table 1
Example ?1 ?2 ?3 ?A ?B ?C
The first outer layer yarn DTEX ?33 ?78 ?33 ?78 ?33 ?33
The long filament radical ?6 ?24 ?6 ?24 ?6 ?6
Twisting count/rice ?700 ?400 ?700 ?400 ?700 ?700
Twist direction ?Z ?Z ?Z ?S ?Z ?Z
The percetage by weight % of single wrap yarn in two wrap yarns 17.0 ?34.6 ?13.6 ?34.6 ?16.5 ?16.5
Provide woven ability rating after fabric is finished, X represents that long 40 meters of every volume, wide 0.5 meter fabric have the yarn breakage more than 10 or 10, and △ represents that every volume has 4~9 yarn breakages, and the every volume of 00 expressions has 3 or 3 following yarn breakages.Shrink when the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of woven fabric is illustrated in dry-cleaning with grade 00 and be not more than 4%.The woven ability of this yarn of table 2 explanation, the yarn filoplume number of all lengths in woven product DIMENSIONAL STABILITY and the per 10 meters two wrap yarns.
Table 2
Example ?1 ?2 ?3 ?A ?B ?C
The filoplume number
≥2mm,<4mm 231 437 261 428 220 240
≥4mm,<7mm 54 129 61 148 65 50
≥7mm 4 18 10 27 8 6
Woven ability ○○ ○○ ○○ ○○
Dimensional stability for fabric ○○ ○○ ○○ ○○ × ×
A kind of as can be seen stable two wrap yarns of data from table and stable fabric can be obtained by this yarn, be that but this yarn has required high heat shape stability (%) and the low weight percentage of single wrap yarn in two wrap yarns combines, wherein, first and second outer layer yarns coat with same direction.
The DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of the fabric that comparison shows that of comparison example yarn beyond yarn of the present invention and fabric from table 1 and table 2 (example 1-3) and the present invention and fabric made with the yarn of example 1~3 is better than the fabric made with the present invention's yarn in addition, and the fabric of comparison example A demonstrate supernumerary in, plumage becomes mildewed.
When the comparative descriptions first and second outer layer yarn twist directions of example 2 and example A are identical, can obtain more a spot of overlength filoplume and the bound result of filoplume.In addition, in example A, the first outer layer yarn nylon partly is exposed on the yarn surface, makes it begin to show the nylon feel.
Example 3 explanations also can obtain superior two wrap yarns when using the polyacrylonitrile based staple fibre yarn as second outer layer yarn.

Claims (10)

1. double covered elastic, it consists essentially of:
The SPANDEX heart yarn, wherein SPANDEX has 50% heat setting at least;
First outer layer yarn that is wrapped on the SPANDEX forms single wrap yarn, and its content is not more than 40% of two wrap yarn gross weights; With
Be wrapped in second outer layer yarn on single wrap yarn;
First and second outer layer yarns wherein all twine with equidirectional.
2. the yarn of claim 1, wherein, the content of SPANDEX is about the twist factor that 2~9% and second outer layer yarn of two wrap yarn gross weights twines and is about 80-130.
3. the yarn of claim 2, wherein, 30%, the first outer layer yarn that the weight of single wrap yarn is about two wrap yarn weight at most is that the Tynex yarn and second outer layer yarn are wool yarn or polyacrylonitrile based staple fibre yarn.
4. the yarn of claim 3, wherein the content of SPANDEX is about 2~5% of two wrap yarn gross weights.
5. the processing method of a double covered elastic may further comprise the steps:
A kind of SPANDEX of the package of supplying is provided, and it has 50% heat setting at least;
At this SPANDEX of about 100%~250% scope in-draw;
The SPANDEX that coats this stretching with first outer layer yarn forms single wrap yarn;
Coat this single wrap yarn with second outer layer yarn, its winding direction is identical with the winding direction of first outer layer yarn, forms two wrap yarns, and wherein the content of single wrap yarn is not more than 40% of two wrap yarn weight; With
Two wrap yarns are carried out heat setting.
6. the method for claim 5, wherein, two wrap yarns temperature at least about 80 ℃ wet heat condition under heat setting.
7. the method for claim 5, wherein, two wrap yarns temperature at least about 110 ℃ dry heat condition under heat setting.
8. the method for claim 5, wherein, 30%, the first outer layer yarn that the content of single wrap yarn is not more than two wrap yarn weight is that the Tynex yarn and second outer layer yarn are wool yarn or polyacrylonitrile based staple fibre yarn.
9. two wrap yarns that comprise claim 1 are only as the woven fabric of warp thread.
10. two wrap yarns that comprise claim 1 are only as the woven fabric of weft yarn.
CN98802149A 1997-01-29 1998-01-27 Stable double covered elastic yarn, process for making same, and fabric comprising same Expired - Fee Related CN1109784C (en)

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CN1768175B (en) * 2003-03-31 2012-01-18 因维斯塔技术有限公司 Air-jet method for producing composite elastic yarns
CN103228830A (en) * 2010-10-30 2013-07-31 P·贝纳利 An elasticised yarn, a method for making said yarn and elasticised fabric made therefrom
WO2015081592A1 (en) * 2013-12-04 2015-06-11 湛江中湛纺织有限公司 New composite elastic yarn, textile fabric, and preparing method and device therefor
CN107675317A (en) * 2017-11-09 2018-02-09 广东溢达纺织有限公司 Stretch yarn and its processing method
CN108893818A (en) * 2018-08-23 2018-11-27 中原工学院 A kind of compliant conductive yarn and preparation method thereof
CN111295469A (en) * 2017-11-01 2020-06-16 柏尔股份有限公司 Methods and compositions for cooling yarns and fabrics and articles comprising cooled yarns and fabrics
CN114959995A (en) * 2022-06-06 2022-08-30 江苏东图纺织有限公司 Preparation method of wool-polyester high-count single-warp single-weft fabric

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CN1768175B (en) * 2003-03-31 2012-01-18 因维斯塔技术有限公司 Air-jet method for producing composite elastic yarns
CN103228830A (en) * 2010-10-30 2013-07-31 P·贝纳利 An elasticised yarn, a method for making said yarn and elasticised fabric made therefrom
CN103228830B (en) * 2010-10-30 2016-05-25 P·贝纳利 Stretch yarn, manufacture the method for described yarn and the stockinette by its manufacture
WO2015081592A1 (en) * 2013-12-04 2015-06-11 湛江中湛纺织有限公司 New composite elastic yarn, textile fabric, and preparing method and device therefor
CN111295469A (en) * 2017-11-01 2020-06-16 柏尔股份有限公司 Methods and compositions for cooling yarns and fabrics and articles comprising cooled yarns and fabrics
CN107675317A (en) * 2017-11-09 2018-02-09 广东溢达纺织有限公司 Stretch yarn and its processing method
CN107675317B (en) * 2017-11-09 2020-03-17 广东溢达纺织有限公司 Elastic yarn and processing method thereof
CN108893818A (en) * 2018-08-23 2018-11-27 中原工学院 A kind of compliant conductive yarn and preparation method thereof
CN114959995A (en) * 2022-06-06 2022-08-30 江苏东图纺织有限公司 Preparation method of wool-polyester high-count single-warp single-weft fabric

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WO1998032904A1 (en) 1998-07-30
KR20000070540A (en) 2000-11-25
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EP0956382B1 (en) 2001-11-14
KR100466768B1 (en) 2005-01-24
DE69802499D1 (en) 2001-12-20
DE69802499T2 (en) 2002-06-27
CN1109784C (en) 2003-05-28

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