JPH08134770A - Production of wool fabric having high stretchability - Google Patents

Production of wool fabric having high stretchability

Info

Publication number
JPH08134770A
JPH08134770A JP6303206A JP30320694A JPH08134770A JP H08134770 A JPH08134770 A JP H08134770A JP 6303206 A JP6303206 A JP 6303206A JP 30320694 A JP30320694 A JP 30320694A JP H08134770 A JPH08134770 A JP H08134770A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
roller
stretching
fabric
spun yarn
aqueous solution
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
JP6303206A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JP2728856B2 (en
Inventor
Michinobu Kaimori
道信 改森
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kanebo Ltd
Original Assignee
Kanebo Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kanebo Ltd filed Critical Kanebo Ltd
Priority to JP6303206A priority Critical patent/JP2728856B2/en
Publication of JPH08134770A publication Critical patent/JPH08134770A/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of JP2728856B2 publication Critical patent/JP2728856B2/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

Links

Abstract

PURPOSE: To provide a method for producing wool fabric having high stretchability in the warp direction. CONSTITUTION: Spun yarn containing at least wool fibers as constituent fibers is immersed in an aqueous solution containing alcohols, then drawn at 10-50% and subsequently dried. The resultant spun yarn as warp is woven and the steam or wet heat treatment of the prepared woven fabric is then carried out.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【0001】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】本発明は、高伸縮性を備えた毛織
物の製造方法に関する。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a woolen fabric having high stretchability.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術】近年、生活水準の高揚にともない、衣料
商品の多様化,高級化への要求が高まり、これに対応し
得る高伸縮性を備えた毛織物が求められている。ここ
に、毛織物とは少なくとも羊毛繊維を含む織物をいう。
従来より、毛織物の製造工程で経糸に緊張、即ち、引張
を付与して緯糸に凹凸を与え、毛織物の緯糸方向に8〜
10%程度の伸縮性を付与するという方法が知られてい
る。また、緯糸に強撚糸を用いることで更に高い伸縮性
を備えた毛織物とすることができる。
2. Description of the Related Art In recent years, as the standard of living has been raised, demands for diversification and upsizing of clothing products have increased, and there has been a demand for a woolen fabric having high elasticity which can meet the demand. Here, the woolen fabric means a fabric containing at least wool fibers.
Conventionally, in the manufacturing process of a woolen fabric, tension, that is, tension is applied to the warp to give unevenness to the weft, and the weft direction of the weft is 8 to
A method of imparting elasticity of about 10% is known. Further, by using a strong twist yarn as the weft yarn, it is possible to obtain a woolen fabric having higher stretchability.

【0003】一方、経糸方向の伸縮性については、乾燥
工程における毛織物の過剰な送り込み、或いは染色工程
における羊毛繊維の収縮挙動に応じた経糸の収縮によ
り、経糸方向に5%程度の伸縮性を付与することができ
る。
On the other hand, regarding the stretchability in the warp direction, about 5% stretchability is imparted in the warp direction by excessive feeding of the woolen fabric in the drying process or shrinkage of the warp yarn according to the shrinkage behavior of the wool fiber in the dyeing process. can do.

【0004】[0004]

【発明が解決しようとする課題】ところが、叙上の従来
の方法によれば、毛織物に対し、緯糸方向には高い伸縮
性を付与することができるが、経糸方向には上述のよう
に5%の低い伸縮性しか付与することができず、運動性
の高い用途に毛織物を適用できないという問題があっ
た。
However, according to the above-mentioned conventional method, it is possible to impart a high stretchability to the woolen fabric in the weft direction, but 5% in the warp direction as described above. However, there is a problem in that the woolen fabric cannot be applied to applications with high mobility because it can only impart low elasticity.

【0005】本発明は以上の実情に鑑みなされたもので
あって、経糸方向に高い伸縮性を備えた毛織物の製造方
法の提供を目的とする。
The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and an object thereof is to provide a method for producing a woolen fabric having high elasticity in the warp direction.

【0006】[0006]

【課題を解決するための手段】上記目的を達成するため
の本発明は、少なくとも羊毛繊維を構成繊維とする紡績
糸を、アルコール類を含んだ水溶液に浸漬し、ついで該
紡績糸を10〜50%延伸せしめた後乾燥し、ついで該
紡績糸を経糸として織成し、しかる後該織物に蒸気若し
くは湿熱処理を施すという手順を備えたものである。
According to the present invention for achieving the above object, a spun yarn containing at least wool fiber as a constituent fiber is dipped in an aqueous solution containing alcohols, and then the spun yarn is used in an amount of 10 to 50. %, Followed by drying, then weaving the spun yarn as warp, and then subjecting the woven fabric to steam or wet heat treatment.

【0007】前記アルコール類にはn−プロピルアルコ
ールの他、エチルアルコール,i−プロプルアルコー
ル,n−ブチルアルコール,i−ブチルアルコール等が
含まれる。また、前記水溶液のアルコール類を含有する
割合は10〜100%の範囲であることが好ましい。
The alcohols include ethyl alcohol, i-propyl alcohol, n-butyl alcohol, i-butyl alcohol, etc. in addition to n-propyl alcohol. The proportion of the aqueous solution containing alcohols is preferably in the range of 10 to 100%.

【0008】[0008]

【作用】以上の構成を備えた本発明によれば、アルコー
ル類を含んだ水溶液に羊毛繊維を浸漬することで、羊毛
繊維の水素結合が切断されて、当該羊毛繊維を僅かな力
で容易に伸長するすることができるようになる。そし
て、10〜50%延伸せしめた後乾燥することで、乾燥
時に水素結合が再生して羊毛繊維特有のテンポラリーセ
ット(一時セット)が作用し、10〜40%伸長した紡
績糸とすることができる。
According to the present invention having the above-mentioned constitution, by immersing the wool fiber in the aqueous solution containing alcohols, the hydrogen bond of the wool fiber is cut and the wool fiber is easily applied with a slight force. It becomes possible to extend. Then, by stretching after being stretched by 10 to 50%, hydrogen bonds are regenerated at the time of drying and a temporary set (temporary set) peculiar to the wool fiber acts, and a spun yarn elongated by 10 to 40% can be obtained. .

【0009】10%以上延伸せしめるのは、これ以下だ
と所望の伸縮性が得られないからであり、延伸を50%
以下とするのは、これ以上延伸すると糸が切断する危険
があり、また、過大に伸長してもそれに応じた伸縮性が
得られないからである。尚、以上を考慮すると、最も好
ましい延伸の範囲は15〜35%である。
The reason why the film is stretched by 10% or more is that the desired stretchability cannot be obtained if it is less than 10%.
The reason for setting below is that there is a risk that the yarn will be cut when further stretched, and that even if the yarn is excessively stretched, the stretchability corresponding thereto cannot be obtained. Considering the above, the most preferable stretching range is 15 to 35%.

【0010】ついで伸長したままの紡績糸を経糸に用い
て織物とし、当該織物に蒸気若しくは湿熱処理を施し
て、羊毛繊維の水素結合を再び切断(テンポラリーセッ
トを解除)することにより、紡績糸を原長(自然長)に
戻す。これにより、織物は経糸方向に7〜20%収縮す
る。従って、織物は7〜20%の高い伸縮性を備えた織
物となる。
Then, the spun yarn that has been stretched is used as a warp to form a woven fabric, and the woven fabric is subjected to steam or moist heat treatment to break the hydrogen bond of the wool fiber again (release the temporary set). Return to original length (natural length). This causes the fabric to shrink 7-20% in the warp direction. Therefore, the woven fabric has a high stretchability of 7 to 20%.

【0011】[0011]

【実施例】以下、本発明の実施例について説明する。ま
ず、アルコール類を含む水溶液に紡績糸を浸漬せしめる
ための装置について、図1に基づき説明する。同図に示
すように、この装置は繰出ローラ(1)と、巻取ローラ
(2)と、浸漬部(3)と、延伸部(8)と、搬送部
(14)とを備えてなる。
Embodiments of the present invention will be described below. First, an apparatus for immersing a spun yarn in an aqueous solution containing alcohols will be described with reference to FIG. As shown in the figure, this device comprises a feeding roller (1), a winding roller (2), a dipping section (3), a stretching section (8), and a conveying section (14).

【0012】繰出ローラ(1)は、多数条の糸をビーム
(円筒体)に巻取った当該ビームを矢示A方向に回転せ
しめ、糸を矢示C方向に繰り出すものである。また、前
記浸漬部(3)は水槽(4)と、水槽(4)内に設けた
第1のパディングローラ対(5)と、第2のパディング
ローラ対(6)と、水槽(4)内に貯留したアルコール
類を含んだ水溶液(7)とからなる。
The feeding roller (1) is configured to wind a large number of threads around a beam (cylindrical body), rotate the beam in the direction of arrow A, and pay out the thread in the direction of arrow C. The immersion part (3) includes a water tank (4), a first padding roller pair (5) provided in the water tank (4), a second padding roller pair (6), and a water tank (4). And an aqueous solution (7) containing alcohols stored in.

【0013】また、搬送部(14)は図示するごとく、
回動自在に設けた第1のガイドローラ(15)と、第2
のガイドローラ(16)と、第3のガイドローラ(1
7)と、第4のガイドローラ(18)と、第5のガイド
ローラ(19)と、第6のガイドローラ(20)と、第
7のガイドローラ(21)と、第8のガイドローラ(2
2)とを備えてなる。
Further, as shown in the figure, the transport section (14) is
A first guide roller (15) rotatably provided and a second guide roller (15)
Guide roller (16) and the third guide roller (1
7), a fourth guide roller (18), a fifth guide roller (19), a sixth guide roller (20), a seventh guide roller (21), and an eighth guide roller ( Two
2) and are provided.

【0014】また、前記延伸部(8)は第1の延伸ロー
ラ(9)と、第2の延伸ローラ(10)と、第3の延伸
ローラ(11)と、第1の乾燥ローラ(12)と、第2
の乾燥ローラ(13)とを備えてなる。そして、これら
第1乃至第3の延伸ローラ(9)〜(11)並びに第1
及び2の乾燥ローラ(12),(13)はそれぞれ矢示
方向に回転するとともに、回転速度は第3の延伸ローラ
(11),第2の延伸ローラ(10),第1の延伸ロー
ラ(9)の順に速くなっており、この回転速度の差によ
り糸を延伸する。尚、第3の延伸ローラ(11),第1
の乾燥ローラ(12)及び第2の乾燥ローラ(13)は
同じ回転速度となっている。第1の乾燥ローラ(12)
及び第2の乾燥ローラ(13)のローラ内には蒸気が循
環するようになっており、各ローラは所定の高温、この
例では80℃に保たれている。尚、第1の延伸ローラ
(9),第2の延伸ローラ(10)及び第3の延伸ロー
ラ(11)はそれぞれ室温となっている。また、前記巻
取ローラ(2)は矢示B方向に回転するビームを備え、
当該ビームに多数条の糸を巻取る。
The stretching section (8) has a first stretching roller (9), a second stretching roller (10), a third stretching roller (11), and a first drying roller (12). And the second
And a drying roller (13). And these 1st thru | or 3rd extending | stretching rollers (9)-(11) and 1st
And the drying rollers (12) and (13) of 2 and 3, respectively, rotate in the directions of the arrows, and the rotation speeds are the third stretching roller (11), the second stretching roller (10), and the first stretching roller (9). ) In order, and the yarn is drawn by this difference in rotation speed. Incidentally, the third stretching roller (11), the first
The drying roller (12) and the second drying roller (13) have the same rotation speed. First drying roller (12)
Steam is circulated in the rollers of the second drying roller (13) and each roller is kept at a predetermined high temperature, in this example, 80 ° C. The first stretching roller (9), the second stretching roller (10) and the third stretching roller (11) are each at room temperature. Further, the winding roller (2) includes a beam that rotates in the direction of arrow B,
A large number of threads are wound around the beam.

【0015】而して、この装置によれば、ビームに巻取
られた多数条の糸が繰出ローラ(1)より引き出され、
浸漬部(3)の水溶液(7)に浸漬せしめられた後、延
伸部(8)において第1の延伸ローラ(9),第2の延
伸ローラ(10)及び第3の延伸ローラ(11)により
延伸せしめられ、第1の乾燥ローラ(12)及び第2の
乾燥ローラ(13)により乾燥せしめられる。そして、
当該糸は巻取ローラ(2)において巻取られる。
Thus, according to this device, a large number of threads wound around the beam are drawn out from the pay-out roller (1),
After being dipped in the aqueous solution (7) of the dipping section (3), the first stretching roller (9), the second stretching roller (10) and the third stretching roller (11) in the stretching section (8). It is stretched and dried by the first drying roller (12) and the second drying roller (13). And
The yarn is wound on a winding roller (2).

【0016】(実施例1)まず、紡績工程において、羊
毛繊維100%であり、下撚数が600T/M,上撚数
が550T/Mである2/60(メートル番手)の双糸
を製造し、この双糸の4040本をビームに巻取り、上
述の浸漬装置に仕掛けた。尚、前記水溶液(7)には、
n−プルピルアルコール:水を50:50とした水溶液
を用い、延伸部(8)における延伸は20%とした。つ
いで、叙上の双糸を用いて経糸密度57本/インチ,緯
糸密度54本/インチの平織物とし、ついでこの平織物
に、スチーミング−染色−乾燥−釜蒸絨の各加工を順次
実施し、実施例1の毛織物を得た。
(Example 1) First, in a spinning process, a 2/60 (meter count) twin yarn having 100% wool fiber, a lower twist number of 600 T / M and an upper twist number of 550 T / M was manufactured. Then, 4040 of the twin yarns were wound on a beam and set in the above dipping device. In addition, in the aqueous solution (7),
An aqueous solution of n-purpill alcohol: water of 50:50 was used, and the stretching in the stretching part (8) was 20%. Next, a plain woven fabric having a warp density of 57 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 54 yarns / inch is formed by using the above-mentioned twin yarns, and then the steaming-dyeing-drying-pot steaming process is sequentially performed on this plain woven fabric. Then, the woolen fabric of Example 1 was obtained.

【0017】(実施例2)まず、紡績工程において、羊
毛繊維100%であり、下撚数が740T/M,上撚数
が1150T/Mである2/72(メートル番手)の双
糸を製造した後、当該双糸を染色し、ついでこの双糸の
8504本をビームに巻取り、上述の浸漬装置に仕掛け
た。尚、前記水溶液(7)には、n−プルピルアルコー
ル:水を20:70とした水溶液を用い、延伸部(8)
における延伸は17%とした。ついで、叙上の双糸を用
いて経糸密度120本/インチ,緯糸密度85本/イン
チのギャバ織物とし、ついでこのギャバ織物に、スチー
ミング−洗絨−乾燥−蒸絨の各加工を順次実施し、実施
例2の毛織物を得た。
(Example 2) First, in a spinning step, a 2/72 (metric count) twin yarn having 100% wool fiber, a lower twist number of 740 T / M and an upper twist number of 1150 T / M was manufactured. After that, the twine was dyed, and then 8504 of the twine was wound on a beam and set in the above dipping device. As the aqueous solution (7), an aqueous solution of n-purpyru alcohol: water of 20:70 was used, and the stretching part (8) was used.
The stretching was 17%. Then, a gabard fabric having a warp density of 120 yarns / inch and a weft yarn density of 85 yarns / inch is formed by using the above-mentioned twin yarns, and then the processing of steaming-washing-drying-steaming is sequentially performed on this GABA fabric. Then, a woolen fabric of Example 2 was obtained.

【0018】(比較例1)n−プルピルアルコール:水
を50:50とした水溶液に紡績糸を浸漬する工程、紡
績糸を20%延伸する工程を除いた他は実施例1と同じ
工程を実施して比較例1の毛織物を得た。
(Comparative Example 1) n-Purpyru alcohol: the same process as in Example 1 except that the step of immersing the spun yarn in an aqueous solution of 50:50 water and the step of stretching the spun yarn by 20% were omitted. By carrying out, a woolen fabric of Comparative Example 1 was obtained.

【0019】(比較例2)n−プルピルアルコール:水
を20:70とした水溶液に紡績糸を浸漬する工程、紡
績糸を17%延伸する工程を除いた他は実施例2と同じ
工程を実施して比較例2の毛織物を得た。
(Comparative Example 2) n-Purpyru alcohol: the same process as in Example 2 except that the step of immersing the spun yarn in an aqueous solution of 20:70 water and the step of stretching the spun yarn by 17% By carrying out, a woolen fabric of Comparative Example 2 was obtained.

【0020】以上の実施例1及び2の毛織物、比較例1
の毛織物についてJIS L 1096に準拠して経糸
方向及び緯糸方向の伸縮性を測定した。その結果を下表
表1に示す。
Wool fabrics of Examples 1 and 2 above, Comparative Example 1
According to JIS L 1096, the woolen fabric was measured for elasticity in the warp direction and the weft direction. The results are shown in Table 1 below.

【0021】[0021]

【表1】 [Table 1]

【0022】表1に示すように、実施例1及び2の毛織
物は比較例1及び2の毛織物に比べて緯糸方向の伸縮性
は同程度であるものの、経糸方向には高い伸縮性を備え
ていることが分かる。
As shown in Table 1, the woolen fabrics of Examples 1 and 2 have the same stretchability in the weft direction as the woolen fabrics of Comparative Examples 1 and 2, but have high stretchability in the warp direction. I know that

【0023】以上、本発明の実施例について説明した
が、本例はあくまでも本発明の一例として例示したもの
であって、本発明の具体的態様がこれに限られるもので
はないということは言うまでもない。特に付言するなら
ば、本例では羊毛100%の紡績糸についての例を示し
たが、本発明を適用し得るのはこれに限らず、綿,麻等
と羊毛繊維との混紡糸、ナイロン,ポリエステル,レー
ヨン等の合成繊維と羊毛繊維との混紡糸にも適用し得
る。
Although the embodiment of the present invention has been described above, it is needless to say that the present embodiment is merely an example of the present invention and the specific embodiment of the present invention is not limited to this. . As an additional note, this example shows an example of a spun yarn of 100% wool, but the present invention is not limited to this, and a mixed yarn of cotton, hemp, etc. and wool fiber, nylon, It can also be applied to a mixed yarn of synthetic fibers such as polyester and rayon and wool fibers.

【0024】[0024]

【効果】以上詳述したように、本発明によれば、極めて
高い伸縮性を備えた毛織物を得ることができる。従っ
て、当該毛織物をゴルフウエア等のスポーツ衣料,カジ
ュアルウエア等、身体を適度に動かす用途に用いること
ができる。
As described above in detail, according to the present invention, a woolen fabric having extremely high stretchability can be obtained. Therefore, the woolen fabric can be used for sports clothes such as golf wear, casual wear, and the like for appropriately moving the body.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of drawings]

【図1】本発明を実施するための具体的装置の概略構成
を示す正面図である。
FIG. 1 is a front view showing a schematic configuration of a specific device for carrying out the present invention.

【符号の説明】[Explanation of symbols]

1 繰出ローラ 2 巻取ローラ 3 浸漬部 4 水槽 5 第1のパディングローラ対 6 第2のパディングローラ対 7 水溶液 8 延伸部 9 第1の延伸ローラ 10 第2の延伸ローラ 11 第3の延伸ローラ 12 第1の乾燥ローラ 13 第2の乾燥ローラ 14 搬送部 15 第1のガイドローラ 16 第2のガイドローラ 17 第3のガイドローラ 18 第4のガイドローラ 19 第5のガイドローラ 20 第6のガイドローラ 21 第7のガイドローラ 22 第8のガイドローラ 1 Feeding Roller 2 Winding Roller 3 Immersion Section 4 Water Tank 5 First Padding Roller Pair 6 Second Padding Roller Pair 7 Aqueous Solution 8 Stretching Section 9 First Stretching Roller 10 Second Stretching Roller 11 Third Stretching Roller 12 First Drying Roller 13 Second Drying Roller 14 Conveying Section 15 First Guide Roller 16 Second Guide Roller 17 Third Guide Roller 18 Fourth Guide Roller 19 Fifth Guide Roller 20 Sixth Guide Roller 21 7th guide roller 22 8th guide roller

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】 少なくとも羊毛繊維を構成繊維とする紡
績糸を、アルコール類を含んだ水溶液に浸漬し、 ついで該紡績糸を10〜50%延伸せしめた後乾燥し、 ついで該紡績糸を経糸として織成し、 しかる後該織物に蒸気若しくは湿熱処理を施す、高伸縮
性を備えた毛織物の製造方法。
1. A spun yarn containing at least wool fiber as a constituent fiber is dipped in an aqueous solution containing alcohols, and then the spun yarn is stretched by 10 to 50% and then dried, and then the spun yarn is used as a warp. A method for producing a highly woven woolen fabric, which comprises weaving and then subjecting the fabric to steam or wet heat treatment.
JP6303206A 1994-11-10 1994-11-10 Method for producing wool fabric with high elasticity Expired - Lifetime JP2728856B2 (en)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN114599461A (en) * 2019-07-31 2022-06-07 伊利诺斯工具制品有限公司 System and method for cleaning continuous substrates
EP3779031A4 (en) * 2018-04-03 2022-09-21 Spiber Inc. High-density woven fabric and method for manufacturing same

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3779031A4 (en) * 2018-04-03 2022-09-21 Spiber Inc. High-density woven fabric and method for manufacturing same
CN114599461A (en) * 2019-07-31 2022-06-07 伊利诺斯工具制品有限公司 System and method for cleaning continuous substrates
US11919053B2 (en) 2019-07-31 2024-03-05 Illinois Tool Works Inc. Systems and methods to clean a continuous substrate

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