CN1196470C

CN1196470C - Cosmetic compositions

Info

Publication number: CN1196470C
Application number: CNB008054401A
Authority: CN
Inventors: M·D·贝尔; R·G·A·罗尔斯; R·P·艾里奥特; R·P·杜克
Original assignee: Procter and Gamble Ltd
Current assignee: Procter and Gamble Ltd; Procter and Gamble Co
Priority date: 1999-02-19
Filing date: 2000-02-17
Publication date: 2005-04-13
Anticipated expiration: 2020-02-17
Also published as: EP1152747A2; WO2000048555A2; CA2362349A1; WO2000048555A3; BR0008335A; CN1345227A; AU3598100A; AU771906B2; KR20010102282A

Abstract

A leave-on cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin comprising: a) a polymeric thickening agent selected from non-ionic and anionic thickening agents, or mixtures thereof, having a number average molecular weight of greater than 20,000 and; b) a cation containing polymer, or mixtures thereof wherein said composition comprises less than 4 % of an anionic, zwitterionic, or amphoteric surfactant. The compositions of the invention display low levels of tack, as well as good rheological, absorption and insulation properties, in addition to skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness benefits.

Description

Cosmetic composition

Technical field

The present invention relates to cosmetic composition.The present invention be more particularly directed to that viscosity reduces cosmetic composition.Said composition also further have good moisturizing effect and use in easily be rubbed into characteristic and absorption characteristic, and excellent skin sense, skin softness and skin smoothness effect.

Background technology

Skin is by the several layers cellularity, and these cells cover and protect keratin and the collagen fiber albumen that forms the skin texture skeleton.The outermost layer of these cellular layers is called horny layer, by the albumen Shu Zucheng of 25nm, is the thick cellular layer of 8nm around it.Anion surfactant and organic solvent generally can permeate as horny layer, and by degreasing (promptly removing lipid from horny layer), destroy its globality.Thisly can cause harsh feeling, and can finally make surfactant and solvent and horny layer interact, produce stimulation the destruction on the anatomy meaning of skin surface.

Recognize that at present the normal moisture gradient that keeps in the horny layer is very important for cuticular function.As most of water of horny layer flexibility agent from body interior.If humidity is low excessively, as in cold snap, the outer layer of stratum corneum moisture deficit is organized when pliable and tough with normal order, and skin can begin decortication and scratchy.When moisture when not enough in the horny layer, the permeability of skin also can decrease to some degree, and on the other hand, skin outside excess moisture can make horny layer finally absorb the 3-5 bound water doubly of himself weight.This can cause skin swelling and wrinkling, causes skin that the permeability of water and other polar molecules is increased about 2-3 doubly.

Therefore, although need skin in a kind of cleaning, work and the amusement process may run into detrimental effect but still help horny layer isolation features and water retaining function are remained on the compositions of optimum state.

Known many beauty creams and emulsion compositions can provide in various degree skin moistening, isolation and water conservation (moistening) effect.But also there is negative effect in it aspect skin sense, and has relatively poor easily being rubbed into property, absorbs slow in skin.The user is relevant with the emollient in the compositions to the skin sense of compositions such as skin softness or slickness, and it can be filmed or coating by coated formation on skin.Some beauty cream and emulsion have required skin sense, absorbability and easily are rubbed into characteristic, but its water-retaining property is relatively poor.Therefore the desirable characteristics to beauty cream and emulsion compositions is good skin sense, water-retaining property, absorbability and easily is rubbed into characteristic.The absorbability of compositions is with easily being rubbed into property is relevant with its physical behavio(u)r under mechanical stress, and it can influence the rheological properties of compositions.

One of method of improving the cosmetic composition rheological properties is the polymer viscosifier that adds different amounts.Known and in compositions, adopted all kinds of thickening agents.But the normal existence of the compositions that contains polymer viscosifier is coated in the sticking shortcoming of aftersensation on the skin.Thickening agent such as polyacrylamide are woven in the aqueous solution, form network structure and form viscosity.When these compositionss were coated on the skin, the water volatilization can make the valid density of polymer viscosifier increase, thereby promoted the viscosity of mummification coating, made to retain coating sensation toughness.This viscosity also can be aggravated when having polyhydric alcohol.

The compositions that therefore, still need to have low viscosity, the while can provide excellent moistness, absorbability, skin sense, skin softness and skin smoothness.

Disclose a kind of aqueous gel that contains the non-ionic polyacrylamide chemical compound among the EP-A-608353, it can be used for pH and is lower than 4 skin care compositions.Said composition can comprise supplementary element such as various compositions film forming characteristics and the substantial polymer of helping.

Polymer film-forming agent such as polyquaternary ammonium salt (polyquaternium)-10 are described to the skin sense and improve chemical compound in US-A-5103763, use it in the skin care compositions, and this compounds can be by eccysis when cleaning skin.In addition, US-A-4 has described in 938,951 and has contained volatile solvent, polymer film-forming agent and part composition of active components.Said composition it is said and can strengthen local substantial activity with active component that specifically, polymer film-forming agent can strengthen local substantial activity with active component.

The personal cleaning compositions that contains water solublity polyhydric alcohol such as glycerol and cation film forming polymer such as polyquaternary ammonium salt-10 for example is found in WO96/17917 and WO96/17916.But also contain anion surfactant or amphoteric surfactant in these compositionss, as eccysis formula product more than or equal to 4%.Also address said composition and can randomly contain nonionic or anionic thickening polymer agent.The personal cleaning compositions that contains aliphatic alcohol thickening agent, cation film forming polymer, anion surfactant, amphoteric surfactant and zwitterionic surfactant has been described among the WO96/38589 in addition.

Be surprised to find that at present by contain polymer viscosifier the leave-on cosmetic compositions in add the polymer of cation, can make the sticky property or the viscosity of said composition reduce, polymer viscosifier is selected from nonionic and anionic thickener or their mixture, and its number-average molecular weight is greater than 20000.Although there is no particular restriction in theory, but it is generally acknowledged in the cosmetic composition that contains the thickening agent network structure and to add charged polymer such as polyquaternary ammonium salt-10 can make charged polymer be fixed in the thickening agent network structure, force described network division, thereby reduce the inside combination of compositions and adhere to sensation.Said composition also has good absorbability, isolation and water retention characteristic except that the moisturizing properties with advantages of good skin sense, skin softness and slickness and excellence.

Summary of the invention

One aspect of the present invention provides a kind of leave-on cosmetic compositions that is suitable for being applied topically to skin, wherein contains:

A) polymer viscosifier or their mixture are selected from nonionic and anionic thickener, and its number-average molecular weight is greater than 20000, and;

B) polymer of cation or its mixture;

The content of anion surfactant, zwitterionic surfactant or amphoteric surfactant is lower than 4% in the described compositions.

Compositions of the present invention has lower viscosity, except that having advantages of good skin sense, skin softness and skin smoothness, also has good rheological properties, absorbability and isolation characteristic simultaneously.

Second aspect of the present invention provides the skin nursing beauty method, comprising use compositions of the present invention on skin.

A third aspect of the present invention has provided the purposes that the polymer of cation or its mixture are used to reduce the sticky property of skin care compositions.This skin care compositions comprises polymer viscosifier or their mixture, and described polymer viscosifier is selected from nonionic and anionic thickener, and its number-average molecular weight is greater than 20000.

A fourth aspect of the present invention has provided the purposes of compositions as the non-washing type skin care compositions, the polymer or its mixture that contain polymer viscosifier or its mixture and cation in the said composition, polymer viscosifier is selected from nonionic and anionic thickener, and number-average molecular weight is greater than 20000.

Detailed Description Of The Invention

Contain polymer viscosifier and necessary cation-containing copolymer composition or its mixture in the present composition, and various hereinafter described optional member, described polymer viscosifier is selected from nonionic and anionic thickener.Unless otherwise indicated, all content and ratio are all in the weight of whole compositions.Chain length and ethoxylation degree are also in weight average.

Here the term relevant with the non-washing type compositions of Cai Yonging " is clamminess " or " viscosity " is meant in the short time scale after slightly exerting pressure, compositions and the slight adhesive power of skin surface of having used compositions.

Here the term of Cai Yonging " sticky sense " or " sticky " are the terms that the user is usually used in describing the viscosity of the actual viscosity of compositions or its personal feeling.

Here the term " non-washing type " relevant with skin care compositions of Cai Yonging is meant and do not have rinse step when using, therefore after compositions being used for skin, the non-washing type compositions preferably kept on skin at least about 15 minutes, more preferably at least about 30 minutes, more preferably at least about 1 hour, most preferably at least several hours, for example up to about 12 hours.

Here the term of Cai Yonging " polymer of cation " is meant and contains 2% or higher in mole under the condition of pH4, preferred 5% or higher, more preferably 10% or the polymer of monomers of higher band cationic charge.

Here the term of Cai Yonging " both sexes " is meant the polymer that contains cation and anionic monomer.

Here the term of Cai Yonging " copolymer " is meant more than a kind of chemically different monomeric combination.

Here the term of Cai Yonging " amphion " is meant the chemical compound that has positive charge and negative charge, and it exists with dipole ion in the pH of broad scope.

Here the term of Cai Yonging " both sexes " is meant performance cation behavior under low pH condition, the chemical compound of performance anion behavior under high pH condition.Be called as under the middle pH value of isoelectric point, IP, this chemical compound promptly has positive charge and has negative charge again, that is, it is a dipole ion.

Here the term of Cai Yonging " alkalescence " is meant the polymer with pH reduces, cationic charge increases.

Here the term of Cai Yonging " skin conditioning agent " is meant the composition that the beauty treatment conditioning effect can be provided skin, these effects are as the effect of moistening, moisture-keeping function (being the ability that retains or keep water or moisture in the skin), emollient, the visible improvement of skin surface, the skin abirritation, the improvement effect of skin soft effect and skin sense.

Here the term of Cai Yonging " non-plugging " be meant described component can or substantially can blocks air and moisture pass through skin surface.

Compositions of the present invention can be used for various suitable purposes.Specifically, the present composition is suitable for the part and is used for skin.Particularly this skin care compositions can be forms such as cream frost, emulsion, gel.Preferred cosmetic composition of the present invention is the emulsified body forms of one or more oil phases at continuous aqueous phase.

Polymer viscosifier

Contain the polymer viscosifier as necessary component in the compositions of the present invention, it is selected from nonionic and anionic thickener, or their mixture, and its number-average molecular weight is greater than 20,000.More preferably the number-average molecular weight of polymer viscosifier of the present invention is greater than 50,000, and is preferably greater than 100,000 especially.

The general reducible thickening agent that accounts for composition weight 0.01%-10% or their mixture of containing of compositions of the present invention preferably is about 0.1%-8%, is most preferably 0.5%-5%.

When adopting polymer viscosifier in the present composition, monovalence preferably is lower than 1% to polyvalent metal ion content, more preferably less than 0.25%, more preferably less than 0.05%, to avoid that the stability of polymer is caused adverse effect.

The preferred non-ionic thickening agent that is suitable for comprises polyacrylamide polymers, crosslinked poly-(N-vinyl pyrrolidone), polysaccharide, natural or paragutta, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, and polyvinyl alcohol.The preferred anionic surfactants thickening agent comprises acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer, carboxy vinyl polymer and alkyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride cross-linked copolymer.The thickening agent that especially preferably is applicable to this is nonionic polyacrylamide polymers and acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer or its mixture.The thickening agent that especially preferably is applicable to this is the nonionic polyacrylamide polymers.

Polyacrylamide polymers

The non-ionic polyacrylamide polymer that is applicable to this is that straight or branched replaces polyacrylamide.This base polymer is non-ion water-dispersible polymers, and it can be made of various monomers, and monomer comprises acrylamide and Methacrylamide, and it is unsubstituted or is replaced (preferred C by one or two alkyl ₁-C ₅).Amide nitrogen atom is unsubstituted or by one or two C in preferred acrylamide and the Methacrylamide ₁-C ₅Alkyl replaces (preferred: methyl, ethyl or propyl group), for example, and acrylamide, Methacrylamide, N methacrylamide, N-methyl acrylamide, N, N-dimethylmethacryl amide and N,N-DMAA.These monomers generally are found in US patent 4,963,348 (Bolich, people such as Jr. authorize on October nineteen ninety 16), in conjunction with in the present invention as a reference.These copolymers can be randomly be made of the neutral cross-linking agent such as the dialkylene chemical compound of routine.This class cross-linking agent of using in the cationic polymer is found in: US patent 4,628,078 (people such as Glover, December was authorized on the 9th in 1986), US patent 4,599,379 people such as (authorized on July 8th, 1986) Flesher is all in conjunction with in the present invention as a reference.The molecular weight of these non-ionic copolymers is greater than about 1,000,000, is preferably greater than about 1500000, the highest by about 30,000,000.Preferably synthetic through inverse emulsion polymerization reaction, with these non-ionic polyacrylamides pre-dispersed in contain high HLB value surfactant (HLB is about 7-10) can not with water miscible solvent such as mineral wet goods in, disperse in water to help polyacrylamide.What most preferably be applicable to this is the following non-ionic polymers of CTFA name: polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and lauryl ether-7, can trade name Sepigel 305 available from Seppic company.

Other are applicable to that this polyacrylamide polymers comprises the polynary block copolymer of acrylamide and substituted acrylamide and acrylic acid and substitutional crylic acid.The commercially available example of these polynary block copolymers comprises: available from Lipo Chemicals company (Patterson, HypanSR150H NJ), SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H.

Crosslinked poly-(N-vinyl pyrrolidone)

Crosslinked poly-(the N-vinyl pyrrolidone) that is applicable to this is found in US patent 5139770 people such as (, on August 18th, 1992 authorized) Shih and US patent 5073614 people such as (, December was authorized on the 17th in 1991) Shih.These gellant generally contain the cross-linking agent of 0.25-1 weight % approximately, be selected from the divinyl ether and the diallyl ether of the terminal glycol that contains about 2-12 carbon atom, contain 2-600 unitary Polyethylene Glycol divinyl ether and diallyl ether approximately, the diene that contains 6-20 carbon atom approximately, divinylbenzene, the vinyl of tetramethylolmethane and allyl ether etc.25 ℃ are adopted Brookfield RVT viscometer, 6# rotor aqueous solution to 5% under 10rpm to measure down, and the viscosity of these gellant generally is about 25000mPa.s (centipoise)-40000mPa.s (centipoise).Commercially available example comprises (Wayne, ACP-1120 NJ), ACP-1179 and ACP-1180 available from International Speciality Products in this base polymer.

Polysaccharide

Multiple polysaccharide is applicable to this." polysaccharide " is meant the gellant that contains repetition sugar (being carbohydrate) unit main chain.The non-limiting example of polysaccharide gellant is selected from: cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, acetic acid propanoic acid carboxylic acid cellulose, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl emthylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline Cellulose, cellulose sodium sulfate, and their mixture.Be applicable to this alkyl substituted cellulose in addition.In this base polymer, the hydroxyl of cellulosic polymer forms the hydroxyalkylation cellulose through hydroxyalkylation (preferred hydroxyethylation or hydroxypropylation), passes through the further modification of ehter bond through C10-C30 straight or branched alkyl then.This base polymer generally is the ether that C10-C30 straight or branched alcohol and hydroxy alkyl cellulose form.The example that is applicable to this alkyl is selected from: stearyl, iso stearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, different cetyl, cocoyl (i.e. the alkyl that obtains by the Cortex cocois radicis oleyl alcohol), palmityl, oil base, inferior oil base, Caulis et Folium Lini base, castor oil-base, docosyl, and their mixture.For these materials based on hydroxyethyl-cellulose, the ethoxy molar substitution is greater than 3.0.The material of preferred CTFA called after cetyl hydroxyethyl-cellulose in the alkyl-hydroxyalkylcelluloswith ether, it is the ether that spermol and hydroxyethyl-cellulose form.This material can trade (brand) name Natrosolt  CS Plus available from Aqualon company.

Other polysaccharide that are suitable for comprise that containing straight chain (1-〉3) connects the glucose unit, wherein contains the sclerosis glucosan of (1-〉a 6) linkage unit every 3 unit, commercially available example is available from Michel Mercier Products company (Mountainside, Clearogel NJ) ^TMCS11.

Natural gum

Other thickening agents that are applicable to this are selected from: arabic gum, agar, alginic acid, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenin, dextrin, gelatin, galenic glue, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated SiO 2, hydroxypropyl chitosan, POLY-karaya, Sargassum, tracasol, natto gum, potassium alginate, carrageenin potassium, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, carboxymethyl dextran sodium, carrageenin sodium, Tragacanth, xanthan gum, and their mixture.What be applicable to this also has: acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer, and by the carboxy vinyl polymer of B.F.Goodrich company with the sale of trade mark Carbopol resin.Suitable Carbopol resins is found in WO98/22085.

The cross-linked copolymer of alkyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride

In these copolymers, vinyl ethers is suc as formula R-O-CH=CH ₂Shown in, wherein R is the C1-C6 alkyl, preferred R is a methyl.Preferred cross-linking agents is the C4-C20 diene, preferred C6-C16 diene, most preferably C8-C12 diene.Particularly preferred copolymer is the copolymer that is formed by methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, described copolymer and decadinene are crosslinked, and when wherein this polymer is diluted to 0.5% aqueous solution under 25 ℃, pH7 condition, the viscosity that adopts Brookfield RTV viscometer, #7 rotor to measure under 10rpm is 50,000-70,000mPa.s (centipoise).The CTFA called after PVM/MA decadinene cross-linked copolymer of this copolymer, and can title Stabileze ^TM06 available from International Specialty Products (WayneNJ).

The polymer of cation

Compositions of the present invention also contains as the polymer of the aforesaid cation of another necessary component or its mixture.

Compositions of the present invention preferably contains the about 20 weight % of the 0.01 weight %-that has an appointment, about 5 weight % of 0.05 weight %-more preferably from about, polymer or its mixture of the cation of the about 1 weight % of particularly about 0.1 weight %-.

The polymer of preferred cation of the present invention is water miscible, and water is dispersible or water-swellable." water-swellable " is meant that polymer volume in aqueous solution of cation increases or expansible ability.

The polymer that is applicable to the cation of the present composition comprises cation, both sexes, both sexes, alkalescence and amphoteric ion polymer, or their mixture.

Be applicable to that cationic polymer of the present invention comprises: the cationic polysaccharide or derivatives thereof, the cationic homopolymer of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride or copolymer contain the cation copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone; The cation copolymer that contains the acrylic acid or derivatives thereof, second ammonium (ethanaminium), N, N, N-trimethyl-2-[(2-methyl isophthalic acid-oxygen-2-acrylic) oxygen]-, muriatic cationic homopolymer or copolymer, polyquaternary ammonium salt-2 and quaternized chitosan, or their mixture.The cation-containing copolymer that preferably is applicable to this is the cationic polysaccharide or derivatives thereof.

The non-limiting example that is suitable for of cationic polysaccharide comprises following composition: cellulose; Hydroxy alkyl cellulose is hydroxyethyl-cellulose for example; Molecular weight is 120,000-2,000,000 the cationic cellulose derivative that contains quaternary ammonium group, the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of the epoxide reactive hydroxyethyl-cellulose that replaces with trimethyl ammonium for example, more particularly, be through α-[2-hydroxyl-3-trimethyl ammonium] propyl group]-poly-(oxygen-1 of ω-hydroxyl, the 2-ethylidene) the cellulose ω-ether of chloride modification, the trade mark of (CTFA) polyquaternary ammonium salt-10 by name on industry, can be available from the Union Carbide (Danbury of company, Conn., USA) " JR " and " LR " product by name, for example " JR125 ", " JR-400 ", " JR-30M ", " LR-500 ", diallyldimethylammonium chloride/hydroxyethyl-cellulose copolymer is called (CTFA) polyquaternary ammonium salt-4 on the industry, can trade name " Celquat L200 " or " Celquat H-100 " available from the National Starch (Salisbury of company, NC, USA), and the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts " Quatrisoft Polymer LM-200 " of the epoxide reactive hydroxyethyl-cellulose that replaces with the lauryl dimethyl ammonium, be called polyquaternary ammonium salt-24 on the industry, can available from Amerchol company (Edison, NJ, USA); Starch is cationic starch for example, 2-hydroxyl-3-trimethyl ammonium chloride propyl ether as starch, can trade name " Sta-Loc 300 " and " Sta-Loc 400 " available from (Decateur of Staley company, ll., USA), it forms ether with quaternization in the hydroxyl position, hydroxyalkyl starch, based on the arabinose polymer of monomers, polymer derived from xylose, derived from the polymer of fucose, derived from the polymer of fructose, based on containing the polymer of acid sugar as galacturonic acid and glucuronic acid, based on amine sugar as galactosamine and the glycosamine polymer of n acetylglucosamine n particularly, based on the polymer of 5 or 6 yuan of cyclopolyols, based on the polymer of galactose, and based on the mannose polymer of monomers.

The cationic polysaccharide Gum derivatives that is suitable for comprises: based on the galactomannan copolymer polymer derivant of (being called guar gum).For example, chemical compound is hydroxypropyl guar gum for example, can trade name " Jaguar HP-60 ", " Jaguar HP-8 ", " Jaguar HP-79 ", " JaguarHP-120 ", " Jaguar HP-200 " available from Rhone-Poulenc or with title " Galactasol " available from Aqualon; With the hydroxypropyl guar gum hydroxypropyl-trimethyl ammonium chloride of trade name " Jaguar C-162 " available from Rhone-Poulenc; Perhaps polymer such as guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, for example can trade name " JaguarC-14S ", " Jaguar C-17 ", " Jaguar C-13S " available from Rhone-Poulenc, with title " N-Hance " for example " N-Hance 2196 " available from Aqualon, (the Zwijndrecht of Hercules company, The Netherlands), or with title " Cosmedia GuarC-261 " available from Henkel company (Teaneck, NJ, USA).

The dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride cationic homopolymer or the copolymer that are applicable to this have: poly-(dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride), can commercial title polyquaternary ammonium salt-6 or trade name " Merquat100 " available from Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA), with title " Agequat 400 " available from (the West Memphis of CPS chemical company, AR, USA), or " Mirapol 100 " are available from Rhone-Poulenc; And the polyquaternary ammonium salt that constitutes by acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonchloride chloride monomer, can trade name polyquaternary ammonium salt-7 or trade name " Merquat 550 " available from Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA).

The cation copolymer that contains vinyl pyrrolidone that is applicable to this comprises: polyvinyl pyrrolidone N, the dithyl sulfate solution of N-dimethyl aminoethyl methacrylic acid copolymer, can trade name polyquaternary ammonium salt-11 or trade (brand) name " Gafquat 755N " available from ISP (Wayne, NJ, USA); The polyquaternary ammonium salt that forms by methyl ethylene imidazolium chloride and vinyl pyrrolidone, can trade name polyquaternary ammonium salt-16 or trade (brand) name " Luviquat FC 370 " available from BASF (Parsippany, NJ, USA); Vinyl pyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride copolymer, can trade name polyquaternary ammonium salt-28 or trade (brand) name " GafquatHS-100 " available from ISP (Wayne, NJ, USA); The polymeric quaternary ammonium salts that constitutes by vinyl pyrrolidone and quaternized imidazoline monomer, can trade name polyquaternary ammonium salt-44 or trade (brand) name " Luviquat MS370 " available from BASF (Parsippany, NJ, USA); And the quaternary ammonium salt that makes by caprolactam and vinyl pyrrolidone and methyl ethylene imidazoles methylsulfuric acid reactant salt, its can trade name polyquaternary ammonium salt-46 or trade (brand) name " LuviquatHold " available from BASF (Parsippany, NJ, USA).

The cation copolymer that comprises the acrylic acid or derivatives thereof that is suitable for, comprise the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts that makes by ethyl methacrylate/methylpropenoic acid rosin ester/diethylamino ethyl-methyl acrylate copolymer and dimethyl sulfate reaction, can be purchased by trade name polyquaternary ammonium salt-12; Polymeric material; And acrylamide, acrylamido oxypropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, 2-acylamino-propyl group acrylamide sulfonate and the monomeric copolymer of DMAPA, can trade name polyquaternary ammonium salt-43 or trade (brand) name " Bozequat 4000 " available from Societe Francaise Hoescht.

The second ammonium that is suitable for, N, N, N-trimethyl-2-[(2-methyl isophthalic acid-oxygen-2-acrylic) oxygen]-muriatic cationic homopolymer or copolymer are with trade name polyquaternary ammonium salt-45 or trade name " Plex 3073L " polymeric material available from Rohm GmbH (Germany); Polymeric material, the second ammonium, N, N, N-trimethyl 2-[(2-methyl isophthalic acid-oxygen-2-acrylic) oxygen]-chloride, with the polymer of 2-acrylamide (propenamide), can the trade name polyquaternium-32 or trade name " Salcare SC92 " available from Allied Colloids (Bradford, N.Yorkshire, UK); And polymeric material: second ammonium, N, N, N-trimethyl-2-[(2-methyl isophthalic acid-oxygen-2-acrylic) oxygen]-chloride, homopolymer, can trade name polyquaternary ammonium salt-37 or trade name " Salcare SC95 " available from Allied Colloids (Bradford, N.Yorkshire, UK).

Other are applicable to that this cationic polymer has poly-(oxygen-1, the 2-ethylidene) (dimethylimino)-1,3-propylene imino carbonyl-imino group-1,2-propylidene (two auxotox radicals)-1,2-ethylene chlorination thing, it is called as polyquaternary ammonium salt-2 on industry, and can trade name Mirapol A-15 available from Rhone-Poulenc; And dihydroxypropyl chitosan trimethyl ammonium chloride, its can trade name polyquaternary ammonium salt-29 or trade (brand) name Kytamer KC available from Amerchol.

The amphiphilic polymers that is applicable to the present composition is to contain the acrylic acid copolymer of both sexes, comprising dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride and acrylic acid copolymer, its can trade name polyquaternary ammonium salt-22 or trade (brand) name " Merquat 280 " available from Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA); Acrylic acid/diallyldimethylammonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer, can trade name polyquaternary ammonium salt-39 or trade (brand) name " Merquat Plus 3330 " and " Merquat Plus 3331 " available from Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA), and the quaternary ammonium salt that forms by acrylic acid, acrylic acid methyl ester. and methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride polymerization, its can trade name polyquaternary ammonium salt-47 or trade (brand) name " Merquat 2001N " available from Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA).

The amphiphilic polymers that is applicable to the present composition comprises the conjugate of tertiary amine monomers and anionic monomer, wherein also can comprise non-ionic monomer, for example, and methacrylamido propyl-dimethyl ammonium/acrylic copolymer; And derived from the methacrylamido ethyl carboxymethyl ethylol amine polymer of monomers that is shown below:

The alkaline polymer that is applicable to the present composition comprises: the homopolymer of tertiary amines derived thing and with the copolymer of non-ionic monomer.The example that is suitable for composition comprises: polyvinyl pyrrolidone/dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate copolymer of being made by vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate monomer, its can trade name PVP/ dimethyl amino ethyl methacrylate copolymer or trade (brand) name " copolymer 845/937/958 " available from ISP (Wayne, NJ, USA); The amine derived polymers, as the aziridine polymer, its molecular formula is (CH ₂CH ₂NH) _nAs PEI-10, wherein the meansigma methods of n is 10, can trade name " Polymin FG " available from BASF; PEI-15, wherein the meansigma methods of n is 15, can trade name " Epomin SP-006 " available from Aceto; PEI-45, wherein the meansigma methods of n is 45, can trade name " EpominSP-018 " available from Aceto; Or PEI-1400, wherein the meansigma methods of n is 1400, can trade name " Nalco 634 " available from Nalco.

The amphoteric ion polymer that is applicable to the present composition comprises derived from methacrylamido CAB polymer of monomers, as the copolymer of methacrylamido CAB and non-ionic monomer.The example of this base polymer has the copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone/methacrylamido CAB.

The polymer that preferably is applicable to the cation of the present composition is cationic polymer or amphiphilic polymers.The cationic polymer or the amphiphilic polymers that preferably are applicable to this are selected from the cationic polysaccharide or derivatives thereof, and contain the acrylic acid copolymer of both sexes or its mixture.More preferably the polymer of cation is selected from cationic cellulose derivative, cationic polysaccharide guar gum derivatives and acrylic acid/diallyldimethylammonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer or their mixture.The polymer of the most preferred cation of the present composition is selected from: polyquaternary ammonium salt-10, guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar gum and acrylic acid/diallyldimethylammonium chloride/acrylamide copolymer, or their mixture.

The content of anion surfactant, amphion or amphoteric surfactant is lower than 4% in the preferred present composition, more preferably less than 2%, and most preferably is lower than 1%.

In preferred embodiments, when containing anion surfactant in the present composition, the polymer of cation and the ratio of anion surfactant are greater than 1 in the compositions.

In another embodiment preferred, the reducible 0%-2% that contains in the present composition is more preferably the C of 0.01%-1% ₈-C ₃₀Fatty acid.

Polyhydric alcohol

In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, contain one or more polyhydric alcohol in the present composition.

If there is polyhydric alcohol, preferably contains total amount in the compositions then of the present invention and be about the about 20 weight % of 3 weight %-, about 15 weight % of 5 weight %-more preferably from about, polyhydric alcohol or its mixture of the about 12 weight % of particularly about 7 weight %-.

The polyhydric alcohol that is applicable to this comprises: poly alkylene glycol, be more preferably alkylidene polyol and derivant thereof, and comprise propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol and derivant thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, erithritol, threitol, tetramethylolmethane, xylitol, glucitol, mannitol, hexanediol, butanediol are (for example, 1, the 3-butanediol), hexanetriol (for example, 1,2, the 6-hexanetriol), trimethylolpropane, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, ethoxylated glycerol and propoxylated glycerol.

Preferred polyhydric alcohols of the present invention is selected from: glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, Polyethylene Glycol, and their derivant, hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerol and propoxylated glycerol, or their mixture.

The polyhydric alcohol that most preferably is applicable to this is glycerol and Polyethylene Glycol and derivant thereof, or their mixture.

For the viewpoint of improving quasi-viscous effect, the polymer of cation and the weight ratio of polyhydric alcohol preferably are about 1: 200-1: 1, be more preferably 1: 100-1: 5.

Oil phase

Preferred cosmetic composition of the present invention is the emulsified body forms of one or more oil phases at continuous aqueous phase, and each oil phase contains the oiliness constituents mixt of single oiliness composition or miscible or homogeneous phase form.Different oil phases contains composition or the constituents mixt that differs from one another.The total content of oil-phase component is generally about 0.1%-60% in the present composition, is preferably about 1%-30%, more preferably about 1%-10%, most preferably 2%-10%.

Oil-phase component in the preferred present composition contains emollient materials or its mixture, polyol carboxylate and silicone oil, or their mixture.

In preferred embodiments, preferably contain other oiliness composition in the oil phase,, be selected from mineral, plant and animal oil, fat and wax, fatty acid ester, aliphatic alcohol, fatty acid and their mixture as natural or artificial oil.The content of these oiliness compositions is about 0.1%-15% of composition weight, more preferably from about 1%-10%.Preferably be applicable to for example having of this: saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohol such as tadenan, spermol and stearyl alcohol, and hydro carbons such as mineral oil or vaseline.Other examples that are applicable to this are found in WO98/22085.The preferred embodiments of the invention contain-10 weight % unsaturated fatty acid or the esters of about 0.1 weight %, as seen in WO98/22085.

The emollient composition

The present composition can contain emollient materials, and it is selected from weight average molecular weight and is about 100-15000, the preferred branched-chain hydrocarbons of about 100-1000; Chemical compound shown in the formula I:

Formula I

R wherein ¹Be selected from H or CH ₃, R ², R ₃And R ⁴Be independently from each other C ₁-C ₂₀The straight or branched alkyl, and x is the integer of 1-20; And suc as formula the chemical compound shown in (II):

Formula II

R wherein ⁵Be selected from optional through hydroxyl or C ₁-C ₄The benzyl that alkyl replaces, and R ⁶Be selected from C ₁-C ₂₀Branched-chain or straight-chain alkyl; And their mixture.

The branched-chain hydrocarbons that is applicable to this is selected from: Fancol ID, 2-Methylpentadecane, Isoeicosane, isoctahexacontane, different five hexadecanes (isohexapentacontahectane), different octapentacontane (isopentacontaoctactane), and their mixture.What be applicable to this has that (P.O.Box 735, SouthPlainfield, N.J.07080, chain aliphatic hydrocarbon U.S.A.) available from Presperse company with trade name Permethyl (RTM).The esters emollient of the above-mentioned formula I that is suitable for comprises: isostearic acid methyl ester, isostearic acid isopropyl ester, neopentanoic acid isooctadecanol ester, isononyl isononanoate, sad isodecyl ester, different isodecyl pelargonate, different n-nonanoic acid tridecane alcohol ester, sad Semen Myristicae alcohol ester, octyl pelargonate, different octyl pelargonate, myristic acid Semen Myristicae alcohol ester, neopentanoic acid Semen Myristicae alcohol ester, sad Semen Myristicae alcohol ester, propanoic acid Semen Myristicae alcohol ester, isopropyl myristate, and their mixture, but be not limited only to this.The esters skin moistening material of the above-mentioned formula II that is suitable for comprises: the C12-15 alkyl benzoate, but be not limited only to this.

The emollient that preferably is applicable to this is 2-Methylpentadecane, different 80 alkane, isononyl isononanoate, sad isodecyl ester, different isodecyl pelargonate, different n-nonanoic acid tridecane alcohol ester, sad Semen Myristicae alcohol ester, different octyl pelargonate, myristic acid Semen Myristicae alcohol ester, the isostearic acid methyl ester, the isostearic acid isopropyl ester, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, and their mixture.

The emollient that especially preferably is applicable to this is 2-Methylpentadecane, isononyl isononanoate, isostearic acid methyl ester, isostearic acid isopropyl ester or their mixture.

The content of emollient materials is preferably about 0.1%-10% of composition weight in the compositions, and preferably about 0.1%-8% especially preferably is about 0.5%-5%.

The polyol carboxylate

Also can contain polyol carboxylate in the present composition as additional emollient.

Preferably contain about 0.01 weight %-20 weight % in the present composition, 0.1 weight %-15 weight % more preferably from about, the polyol ester of particularly about 0.1 weight %-10 weight %.Level of polyol ester is preferably about 1 weight %-30 weight % of oils weight in the compositions, more preferably from about 5 weight %-20 weight %.From the skin softness that improvement is provided and the viewpoint of slickness effect, the weight ratio of polyol carboxylic acid ester and above-mentioned emollient materials is preferably about 5: 1-1: 5, more preferably about 2: 1-1: 2.

Be applicable to that preferred polyhydric alcohols polyester of the present invention is the C of sugar ₁-C ₃₀Monoesters and polyester and associated materials.These esters are by sugar or polyol moiety, and one or more carboxylic moiety obtains.According to forming the different of carboxylic acid and sugar, these esters at room temperature can be the liquid or solid form.The example comprises: four oleic acid glucose esters, oleic acid galactose four esters, four oleic acid sorbitol esters, four oleic acid sucrose ester, five oleic acid sucrose ester, six oleic acid sucrose ester, seven oleic acid sucrose ester, eight oleic acid sucrose ester, sorbitol six esters (carboxylate moiety wherein is that mol ratio is 1: 2 palm acid ester and an Arachidate), and sucrose octaester (wherein esterification carboxylic moiety is that mol ratio is 1: 3: 4 a laurate, linoleate and docosane acid esters).Other materials comprises the Oleum Gossypii semen or the soya fatty acid ester of sucrose.Other example of these materials is found in WO 96/16636, in conjunction with in the present invention as a reference.Particularly preferred material is the composition of many oleic acids of INCI called after sucrose ester.

Silicone oil

Preferably contain at least one silicone oil phase in the present composition.Silicone oil generally accounts for about 0.1%-20% of compositions mutually, preferably about 0.5%-10%, more preferably from about 0.5%-5%.Described silicone oil phase or each silicone oil preferably contain one or more polysiloxanes components mutually.

The polysiloxanes component can be a fluid, comprises straight chain, side chain and cyclic polysiloxanes.The polysiloxane fluid that is applicable to this comprises: poly-alkylsiloxane fluid, and poly-aryl siloxanes fluid, ring-type and straight chain gather alkylsiloxane, the poly-alkoxylation siloxanes, the polysiloxanes of amino and quaternary ammonium modification, poly-alkaryl siloxanes or polyether siloxane copolymer, and their mixture.Polysiloxane fluid can be a volatility or nonvolatile.The weight average molecular weight of polysiloxane fluid generally is lower than about 200,000.The molecular weight of the polysiloxane fluid that is suitable for is about below 100,000 or 100,000, preferably is about below 50,000 or 50,000, is most preferably below 10,000 or 10,000.Preferred polysiloxane fluid is selected from weight average molecular weight and is about 100-50, and 000, preferably be about 200-40,000 polysiloxane fluid.The viscosity of polysiloxane fluid generally is about 0.65-600,000mm under 25 ℃ ²S ^-1, preferably be about 0.65-10,000mm ²S ^-1Viscosity can adopt the glass capillary tube viscometer among the test method CTM0004 that proposes in Dow Corning company on July 29th, 1970 to measure.Be applicable to that polydimethylsiloxane of the present invention comprises those for example available from the SF and Viscasil (RTM) series of products of General Electric Co. Limited, and available from Dow Corning 200 series of products of Dow Corning.What be suitable for is nonvolatile poly-alkaryl siloxanes in addition substantially, for example, PSI, its viscosity under 25 ℃ is about 0.65-30,000mm ².s ^-1These siloxanes for example can be the SF 1075 aminomethyl phenyl fluids available from General Electric Co. Limited, or available from the 556 cosmetics-stage fluids of Dow Corning.The annular dimethyl polysiloxane that is applicable to this is to contain about 3-7 (CH ₃) ₂The polydimethylsiloxane of the circulus of SiO part.

In preferred embodiments, polysiloxane fluid is selected from polydimethylsiloxane, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, phenyl methyl polysiloxanes, and their mixture.

Silicone gums also is applicable to this.It is about 200,000, preferred about 200 that term of the present invention " silicone gums " is meant that weight average molecular weight surpasses, 000-4,000,000 high molecular polysiloxanes.Comprising non-volatile poly-alkyl and poly-aryl siloxanes glue.In preferred embodiments, silicone oil contains silicone gums in mutually or comprises the polysiloxane mixture of silicone gums.It is about 1,000 that the viscosity of silicone gums under 25 ℃ generally surpasses, 000mm ²s ^-1Silicone gums comprises by disclosed polydimethylsiloxane: US-A-4 in Petrarch and following other documents, 152,416 (authorizing people such as Spitzer on May 1st, 1979), and Noll, Walter work " polysiloxanes chemistry and technology " (New York: Academic Press 1968).Described the silicone rubber products tables of data SE of General Electric 30 in addition of silicone gums, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76.The instantiation of silicone gums comprises polydimethylsiloxane, (polydimethylsiloxane) (ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer, poly-(dimethyl siloxane) (diphenyl) (ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer, and their mixture.The silicone gums that preferably is applicable to this is that molecular weight is about 200,000-4, and 000,000 silicone gums, it is selected from dimethiconol and polydimethylsiloxane, and their mixture.

Silicone oil of the present invention preferably contains a part as silicone gums-fluid mixture in mutually and joins silicone gums in the compositions.When silicone gums adds fashionablely as the part of silicone gums-fluid mixture, silicone gums preferably accounts for the about 40 weight % of about 5 weight %-of silicone gums-fluid mixture, particularly about 10 weight %-20 weight %.Silicone gums-the fluid mixture that is applicable to this is made of following component basically:

(i) molecular weight is about 200,000-4,000,000 be selected from dimethiconol, fluoridize the polysiloxanes of polysiloxanes and polydimethylsiloxane and their mixture; And

(ii) carrier, it is a polysiloxane fluid, this carrier viscosity is about 0.65mm ².s ^-1-100mm ².s ^-1,

I wherein) be about 10 with ii) ratio: 90-20: 80, and the wherein said final viscosity that contains the component of silicone gums is about 100mm ².s ^-1-100,000mm ².s ^-1, preferably about 500mm ².s ^-1-10,000mm ².s ^-1

The component that contains silicone gums-fluid mixture that especially preferably is applicable to this is that molecular weight is about 200,000-4, and 000,000 dimethiconol glue and viscosity are about 0.65-100mm ².s ^-1The polysiloxane fluid carrier.The example of this silicone components of birdsing of the same feather flock together has the Dow Corning Q2-1403 (85%5mm available from DowCorning ².s ^-1Polydimethylsiloxane fluid/15% dimethiconol) and Dow Corning Q2-1401.

Another is applicable to that the polysiloxanes component of silicone oil phase of the present invention is the optional crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer that is scattered in the fluid carrier.General when existing, crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer and carrier thereof (if existence) account for the 0.1%-20% of compositions, preferably are about 0.5%-10%, are more preferably 0.5%-5%.This base polymer comprises through the crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer of cross-linking agent.The cross-linking agent that is suitable for is found in WO98/22085.The organo-siloxanes polymer example that is applicable to this comprises: methyl ethylene polydimethylsiloxane, methyl ethylene diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane and methyl ethylene phenyl methyl diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane.

The concrete commercially available crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer that is applicable to this is a polysiloxanes vinyl cross linked polymer mixture, its with trade (brand) name KSG available from Shinetsu chemical company, KSG-15 for example, KSG-16, KSG-17, KSG-18.The mixture that contains crosslinked organo-siloxanes polymer and polysiloxane fluid in these materials.Especially preferably be applicable to this especially with organic amphiphilic emulsifying agent material shared be KSG-18.KSG-15, KSG16, the assigned I NCI name of KSG-17 and KSG-18 is respectively a cyclohexyl methyl polysiloxanes Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone cross linked polymer, polydimethylsiloxane Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone cross linked polymer, cyclohexyl methyl polysiloxanes Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone cross linked polymer, phenyl trimethyl polysiloxanes polydimethylsiloxane/phenyl vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross linked polymer.

Other are applicable to that the polysiloxane-based component during silicone oil of the present invention is mutually comprises: polydiorganosiloxanepolyurea-polyoxyalkylene copolymers, wherein contain at least one polydiorganosiloxanepolyurea fragment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment.The polydiorganosiloxanepolyurea segment and the copolymer thereof that are suitable for are found in WO98/22085.Polydiorganosiloxanepolyurea-the polyolefin copolymer that is suitable for can trade (brand) name Belsil (RTM) available from Wacker-Chemie GmbH (Gesch ā ftsbereich S, Postfach D-8000 Munich 22), and with title Abil (RTM) available from (the Tego House of Th.Goldschmidt company, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 OYL), for example Belsil (RTM) 6031 and Abil (RTM) B88183.The copolymer fluid mixture that especially preferably is applicable to this comprises Dow CorningDC3225C, its CTFA called after polydimethyl siloxanes/polydimethy siloxanes copolyol.

Amphiphilic surfactant

Another preferred ingredients is organic amphiphilic surfactant in the present composition, and it can at room temperature or form the easily molten crystallization of smectic in product or when product is coated on the skin under the intensification condition.Find that the organic amphiphilic surfactant of this class is for the stability of improving the present composition and skin sense advantageous particularly.The content of the non-ionic amphiphilic surfactant in the preferred present composition is about 0.01%-4%, preferably is about 0.05%-3%, is more preferably 0.08%-2%.The non-ionic amphiphilic surfactant and the characteristic thereof that preferably are applicable to this are found in WO98/22085, in conjunction with in the present invention as a reference.What preferably be applicable to this is: single-, two-and three-acyl group sugar ester and composition thereof, acyl substituent wherein contains 8-24 carbon atom approximately, preferably contains 8-20 carbon atom approximately, and contains 0,1 or 2 unsaturated part, and polyethyleneglycol derivative or its mixture.Preferably based on the fatty acid ester blends of fatty acid anhydro sorbitol or sorbitol ester and sucrose-fatty ester admixture, the fatty acid in each example is C preferably for camber of the present invention ₈-C ₂₄, be more preferably C ₁₀-C ₂₀Based on the viewpoint of the effect of moistening, preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier is C ₁₆-C ₂₀Fatty acid anhydro sorbitol or sorbitol ester and sucrose C ₁₀-C ₁₆The mixture of the mixture of fatty acid ester, particularly stearic acid Isosorbide Dinitrate and sucrose cocos nucifera oil acid esters.It can trade (brand) name Arlatone 2121 available from ICI.

Wetting agent

Can comprise additional wetting agent in the present composition, its content preferably is about 0.01%-20%, is more preferably 0.1%-15%, especially preferably is about 0.5%-15%.

The adjunct humectant that is applicable to this is: 2-Pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid sodium (NaPCA), guanidine; Glycolic and glycollate (for example ammonium salt and season alkylammonium salt); Lactic acid and lactate (for example ammonium salt and season alkylammonium salt); Various forms of Aloes (for example, Aloe gel); Hyaluronic acid and derivant thereof (for example, salt derivative is as hyaluronate sodium); The lactamide monoethanolamine; The acetamide monoethanolamine; Urea; Pantothenylol and derivant thereof; And their mixture.

The adjunct humectant of at least a portion (the highest 5 weight % that account for compositions) can add with the form of mixtures of crosslinked hydrophobic acrylate of granule or methacrylate copolymer, the content of itself preferably is about 0.1%-10%, and it can add in water or the decentralized photo.This copolymer is particularly conducive to and reduces glossy and the control oiliness, helps to provide effective moisturizing effect simultaneously, and can further specifically see among the WO96/03964, in conjunction with in the present invention as a reference.

Above-claimed cpd can singly be used or be shared.Preferred adjunct humectant is selected from urea, pantothenylol and their mixture.

Consider the combination of special preferably glycerine and urea from the angle that promotes to preserve moisture.In preferred embodiments, the preferred content of urea is that about 0.1-of composition weight is about 20%, and more preferably from about 0.5%-is about 10%, especially preferably about 1%-about 5%.

In preferred embodiments, when adding oil phase and organic amphiphilic surfactant, be higher than under the temperature that organic amphiphilic surfactant Kraft orders (but preferably being lower than about 60 ℃) with its premix in water, before adding urea, to form liquid crystalization/oil in water dispersion.Find that urea when shared, can make oil-in-water type skin protection emulsified body compositions of the present invention that excellent skin moisturizing effect and emollescence is provided especially effectively with amphiphilic emulsifier surface activating agent and polyol fatty acid polyesters in the present invention.

Also can add various optional components such as additional thickener, non-obstruction moisturizing agent, nertralizer, essence, coloring agent and surfactant in the skin composition of the present invention.

The another kind of thickening agent that is applicable to this is poly-(methyl) acrylate lubricant (as Hispagel ) of water solublity glycerol; Polyglycereol methacrylic acid ester lubricant can trade (brand) name Lubrajel (RTM) available from Guardian chemical company (230 MarcusBlvd., Hauppage, N.Y.11787), and their mixture.Lubrajel generally can describe and make hydrate or clathrate, and it is formed by sodium glycerinate and methacrylate polymer reaction.Then, stablize this hydrate or clathrate, control the hydration reaction of products obtained therefrom then with minor amounts of propylene glycol.Lubrajel is with different glycerates: a plurality of grades of the ratio of polymer and different viscosities are sold.The Lubrajel that is suitable for comprises Lubrajel TW, Lubrajel CG and Lubrajel MS, and Lubrajel WA, Lubrajel DV, and all be called Lubrajel oil.

Nertralizer is applicable to the neutralization hydrophilic gelling agent that contains acidic-group of the present invention, and it can comprise sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, amino methyl propanol, Tris-buffer agent and triethanolamine.

Compositions of the present invention is generally the emulsified body form, and preferably it is mixed with product viscosity and is at least about 4,000mpa.s, preferably is about 4,000-300, is more preferably 8,000-250 at 000mpa.s, 000mpa.s, particularly be about 10,000-200, more especially is about 10,000-150 at 000mpa.s, 000mpa.s (25 ℃, net phase, Brookfield RVT, T-C rotor are under 5rpm and adopt the Heliopath support) product.

The also reducible pantothenylol moisturizing agent that contains 0.01%-10% preferably is about 0.1%-5% in the present composition.The pantothenylol moisturizing agent can be selected from: D-panthenol ([R]-2,4-dihydroxy-N-[3-hydroxypropyl)]-3, the 3-amide dimethyl butyrate), the DL-pantothenylol, calcium pantothenate, Lac regis apis, pantethin, pantothenic acid (pantotheine), pantothenylol base ether, pangamic acid, Benadon, pantoyl lactose and vitamin B coordination compound.

Other optional member comprises keratolytic/exfoliant, as salicylic acid; Protein and polypeptide, and their derivant; The content of water solublity or lyotropy antiseptic preferably is about 0.1%-5%, these examples of preservatives have Germall 115, the methyl ester of hydroxy benzoic acid, ethyl ester, propyl ester and butyl ester, benzylalcohol, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM) K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-glycol) and phenoxypropanol; Antibacterial such as Irgasan (RTM) and phenyl phenol (content is preferably 0.1%-about 5%); Solubility or colloidal state solubility moisturizing agent, as hyaluronic acid and starch-grafted sodium polyacrylate, as available from Celanese SuperabsorbentMaterials (Portsmith, VA, USA) Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 comprise seeing US-A-4, those of 076,663; Vitamin such as vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E and their derivant and vitamin K; α-and beta-hydroxy acid; Aloe; Sphingosine and phytosphingosine, cholesterol; Skin whitener; N-acetylcystein; Coloring agent; Essence and essence solubilizing agent.

Be applicable to this sunscreen that also has.All kinds of sunscreen are found in US patent 5,087,445 (people such as Haffey, on February 11st, 1992 authorized); US patent 5,073,372 (people such as Turner, December was authorized on the 17th in 1991); US patent 5,073,371 (people such as Turner, December was authorized on the 17th in 1991); With people such as Segarin work " cosmetic science and technology " VIII chapter, the content below 189 pages.Be applicable to preferably in these sunscreen that of the present invention is that those are selected from: p-methoxycinnamic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, N, N-dimethyl-para-amino benzoic acid 2-Octyl Nitrite, para-amino benzoic acid, 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, the high menthol ester of salicylic acid, ethylhexyl salicylate, 4,4 '-methoxyl group-tert-butyl group dibenzoyl methane, 4-isopropyl diphenyl formyl methane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3-(4-methyl benzal) Camphora, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silicon dioxide, ferrum oxide, Parsol MCX, Eusolex 6300, octocrylene, Parsol 1789, and their mixture.Other sunscreen that are suitable for are found in US patent 4,937,370 (Sabatelli, authorize June 26 nineteen ninety); With US patent 4,999,186 (people such as Sabatelli, on March 12nd, 1991 authorized).

Sunscreen generally can account for the 0.5%-20% of composition therefor of the present invention.Visual selected sunscreen of its definite consumption and required sun protection factor (SPF) and different.SPF is usually used in determining sunscreen measuring the sun-proof result of erythematous response.Referring to " Federal Register " 43 volumes the 166th, 38206-38269 page or leaf, on August 25th, 1978.

The starch ocentyl succinic aluminum that also can contain the 0.1-5 weight % that has an appointment in the present composition.Starch ocentyl succinic aluminum is the aluminum salt of octenyl succinic acid anhydride and starch reaction product, its can trade name Dry Flo available from National Starch﹠amp; Chemical company.For the viewpoint of skin sense and application characteristic, Dry Flo is applicable to this.

Other optional material of the present invention comprise water-insoluble pigment, and it belongs to or be present in the total amount of oil-phase component.Be applicable to that the pigment in the present composition can be organic and/or inorganic.Term pigment also comprises the material of low colourity or low gloss, as inferior light finishing agent, and light scattering agent.Preferably contain the granular materials that refractive index is about 1.3-1.7 in the present composition, granular materials can be scattered in the compositions, and its median particle diameter is about 2-30 μ m.The granule that preferably is applicable to this has narrower distribution, promptly the particle size distribution more than 50% 3 μ m of median particle diameter value up and down in.Also preferred more than 50%, preferred more than 60%, more preferably the distribution of particles more than 70% is in above-mentioned each median particle diameter value scope.The granular materials that is suitable for is inorganic material or organopolysiloxane, and preferred organopolysiloxane polymer.Preferred granule is free flowable solid material.Wherein " solid " is meant that granule is not a hollow.The space at hollow material center can refractive index have a negative impact, thereby influences the visual effect of granule on skin or in the compositions.The organic granular material that is suitable for comprises those materials that are made of following composition: above-mentioned poly methyl silsesquioxane, polyamide, polyethylene, polyacrylonitrile, polyacrylic acid, polymethylacrylic acid, polystyrene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and poly-(protochloride ethylene).Above-mentioned also suitable derived from monomeric copolymer material.Inorganic material comprises silicon dioxide and boron nitride.The typical commercially available example that is applicable to this granular materials is Tospearl  145, its granule median particle diameter is about 4.5 μ m, with the EA-209  available from Kobo, it is about the ethylene/acrylic acid copolymer of 10 μ m or their mixture for the granule median particle diameter.

Other examples of the pigment that is suitable for are titanium dioxide, available from the pre-dispersed titanium dioxide of Kobo, and Kobo GWL75CAP for example, ferrum oxide, acyl glutamic acid ferrum oxide, ultramarine, D﹠amp; The C dyestuff, carmine, and their mixture.Type according to compositions adopts pigment composition commonly used.For the viewpoint of the effect of moistening, skin sense, skin appearance and the emulsified body compatibility, the pigment that preferably is applicable to this is treated pigment.Can adopt chemical compound such as aminoacid, polysiloxanes, lecithin and esters oil processing pigment.

Vitamin B ₃ Component

The vitamin B that also can contain safe and effective amount in the compositions of the present invention ₃Chemical compound.Preferably contain 0.01%-50% in the compositions of the present invention approximately, more preferably from about contain 0.1%-20%, more preferably from about contain 0.5%-10%, more preferably from about contain 1%-8%, most preferably from about contain the vitamin B of 1.5%-about 6% ₃Chemical compound.

" the vitamin B that is used for this ₃Chemical compound " be meant the chemical compound that is shown below:

Wherein R is-CONH ₂(being nicotiamide) ,-COOH (being nicotinic acid) or-CH ₂OH (being nicotinyl alcohol); Its derivant; The salt of mentioned component.Said vitamin B ₃The typical derivant of chemical compound comprises: nicotinate comprises the non-vasodilation ester of nicotinic acid, cigarette base aminoacid (nicotinyl amino acid), carboxylic acid nicotinyl alcohol esters, nicotinic acid N-oxide and nicotinoyl amine n-oxide.

The nicotinate that is suitable for comprises: the C of nicotinic acid ₁-C ₂₂Alcohol ester, preferred C ₁-C ₁₆Alcohol ester, more preferably C ₁-C ₆Alcohol ester.That alcohol is suitable for is straight or branched, ring-type or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (comprising aromatics), replace or be unsubstituted.Esters preferably is non-vasodilation.Here after the term of Cai Yonging " non-vasodilation " is meant that the present composition is used for skin, this class ester can not cause visible flare reaction usually, and (the most of people in the total number of persons visible flare reaction can not occur, but this compounds may cause the eye sightless vasodilation, promptly ester is non-flushing).The non-vasodilation ester of nicotinic acid comprises tocopheryl nicotinate and hexanicotinate; Preferred tocopheryl nicotinate.To vitamin B ₃The more detailed description of chemical compound is found in WO98/22085.

Said vitamin B ₃Examples for compounds is known in the art, and can be purchased by a plurality of sources, for example available from Sigma chemical company (St.Louis, MO); The ICN biochemical corp (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich chemical company (Milwaukee, WI).One or more vitamin Bs ₃Chemical compound can be used for this.Preferred vitamin B ₃Chemical compound is nicotiamide and tocopheryl nicotinate.More preferably nicotiamide.

Retinoids

Also contain retinoids in the present composition.Here " retinoids " of Cai Yonging comprises all natural and/or synthetic vitamin A analog or retinoid chemical compounds, and it has the biological activity of vitamin A in skin, and the geometric isomer of these mixture and stereoisomer.Retinoids is retinol, retinol ester (for example, the C of retinol preferably ₂-C ₂₂Arrcostab comprises retinyl palmitate, retinol acetate, propanoic acid retinol ester), retinal, and/or tretinoin (comprising all-trans retinoic acid and/or 13-cis-tretinoin), the more preferably retinoids of non-tretinoin.These chemical compounds are well known in the art, and can be purchased from a plurality of sources, for example, Sigma chemical company (St.Louis, MO), and Boehringer Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN).Preferred retinoids is retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinol acetate, propanoic acid retinol ester, retinal and their mixture.More preferably retinol and retinyl palmitate.Retinoids can be the material that is essentially pure product, or separates the extract that obtains through proper physical and/or chemical method from natural (for example plant) source.

Preferably contain in the compositions or about 0.005% to or about 2%, the more preferably retinoids of 0.01%-about 2%.The consumption of retinol most preferably be from or about 0.01% to or about 0.15%; The consumption of retinol ester most preferably from about 0.01% to about 2% (for example, about 1%).

The combination of vitamin b 3 compound and retinoids can provide the beneficial effect of regulating skin, as WO98/22085, in conjunction with in the present invention as a reference.

The pH of the present composition is suitable for greater than 4.25, is preferably greater than 4.5, more preferably greater than 4.75, also preferably less than 9, is more preferably less than 8, is more preferably less than 7.Water content in the present composition generally is about the about 98.89 weight % of 30 weight %-, the preferred about 95 weight % of about 50 weight %-, particularly about 60 weight %-90 weight %.

The present composition is preferably and moistens cream frost or emulsion form, and it can be used for skin by the non-washing type product form.Adopt following examples explanation the present invention.

Example I-VI

Composition % % % % % %

w/w w/w w/w w/w w/w w/w

Glycerol 7.00 7.00 9.00 12.00 15.00-

Macrogol 200 ¹-3.00--10.00

Urea-2.20 1.80---

Kronos (titanium dioxide) ²-0.15 0.15-0.15 0.15

Kobo?GWL75CAP ³ 0.50 - 0.20 0.30 - -

Tospear1?145a ⁴ - - 0.50 2.00 - -

Arlatone?2121 ⁵ 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

Scpigel?305 ⁶ 2.50 1.50 3.00 3.00 2.00 3.00

Sodium hydroxide (40% solution) 0.03 0.04 0.05 0.08 0.10 0.10

Hydrofol acid 0.09 0.10 0.12 0.13 0.10 0.10

Myrj?59 ⁷ 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10

Stearyl alcohol 0.38 0.40 0.32 0.48 0.80 1.2

Spermol 0.80 1.00 0.72 0.72 1.80 0.80

The isostearic acid isopropyl ester ⁸1.50 0.75 1.50 1.00 0.5 2.00

SEFA Oleum Gossypii semen acid esters ⁹1.00 1.50 0.75 1.80--

2-Methylpentadecane 1.00---0.50 1.00

Vaseline----1.20 0.50

Ethylparaben 0.10 0.15 0.15 0.20 0.20 0.25

Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.15 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.25 0.25

Benzylalcohol 0.15 0.20 0.20 0.25 0.25 0.30

D-panthenol 0.50 0.50--0.50 1.00

Nicotiamide 2.00 2.50--2.00 5.00

EDTA disodium 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10

DC?Q2-1403 ¹⁰ 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.50 2.00 2.50

Tocopherol acetate ester 0.50 0.25 0.25 0.75 0.50-

Polyquaternary ammonium salt 39 ¹³0.15 0.20 0.25---

Polyquaternary ammonium salt 10 ¹⁴0.10--0.20 0.30 0.35

Deionized water adds to

100 100 100 100 100 100

1. available from Union Carbide company, Danbury, Conn., the U.S.

2. available from Kronos, 4 Place Ville Marie#500, Montreal, Quebec, Canada

3. available from Kobo Products Inc, 690 Montrose Ave, So Plainfield, NJ 07080

4. available from GE Silicones, Plasticslaan l/PO Box 117,4600 ACBergen op Zoom, Holland

5. available from ICI Surfactants, PO Box 90, Wilton Centre, Middlesborough, Cleveland, Britain TS6 8JE

6. available from Seppic, 75 Quai D ' Orsay, Paris

7.PEG 100 stearates, available from ICI, PO Box 90, Wilton Centre, Middlesborough, Cleveland, Britain .TS6 8JE

8. available from Scher chemical company, Industrial West, Clifton, NJ 07012

9. the C1-C30 monoesters or the polyester of sugar of the present invention and one or more carboxylic moiety, sucrose polyfatty acid esters preferably, its esterification degree is 7-8, and fatty acid part wherein is single and/or two unsaturated fatty acids acid moieties and a docosane acid moieties of C18, unsaturated acids part wherein: the mol ratio of docosane acid moieties is 1: 7-3: 5, and more preferably the sucrose octaester wherein contains 7 docosane acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid part approximately in molecule, for example, cottonseed oil fatty acid sucrose ester.

10. available from Dow Corning, Kings Court, 185 Kinds Rd, Reading, Berks, RG 1 4EX

11. available from Union Carbide company, Danbury, Conn., the U.S.

12. available from Aqualon (Hercules Inc), Noordweg 9,3336 LHZwinjndrecht, P.O Box 71,3330 AB Zwijndrecht, Holland

13. available from Calgon company, 43 Hawthorne Av, NJ 07506

14. available from Union Carbide company, Danbury, Conn., USA

Prepare compositions as follows:

Mixed preparation first pre-composition in water comprises anionic thickener (if existence), glycerol/titanium dioxide pre-composition, and the polymer of cation, Arlatone 2121 (if existence), other water-soluble components except that urea, and be heated to about 80 ℃.Add second pre-composition that hot preparation comprises the oil-phase component of emulsifying agent, oil-solvent preservative (except the silicone oil) by mixed, and add in the moisture pre-composition.

If there is the polymer anion thickening agent, should add then sodium hydroxide with pH regulator to 6-7.5, stir and be cooled to about 60 ℃ then.If there is the polymer non-ionic thickening agent, step as above, but polymer viscosifier for example Sepigel 305 (polyacrylamide) should when mixture is cooled to 60 ℃, could add.Stir adding Sepigel 305 down, add NaOH solution then.In both cases, should add EDTA in the oil-in-water emulsion of gained thereafter, silicone oil adds urea solution (the 1g urea is dissolved in 1ml water) then, and cooling mixture adds micro constitutent then.Make compositions in order to packing.

Said composition also shows less viscosity and good rheological property, absorbability and isolation characteristic except that having good skin sense, skin softness and skin smoothness effect.

Claims

1. leave-on cosmetic compositions that is suitable for being applied topically to skin, contain:

A) 0.01 weight %-10 weight % is selected from the polymer viscosifier of non-ionic thickening agent, anionic thickener or its mixture, its number-average molecular weight is greater than 20,000, this non-ionic thickening agent comprises polyacrylamide, crosslinked poly-(N-vinyl pyrrolidone) and polyvinyl alcohol, and this anionic thickener comprises the cross-linked copolymer of acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer, carboxy vinyl polymer and alkyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride;

B) polymer or its mixture of 0.01 weight %-20 weight % cation, the polymer of this cation is selected from cationic polysaccharide, the cationic homopolymer of dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride or copolymer, the cation copolymer that contains vinyl pyrrolidone contains acrylic acid cation copolymer, the second ammonium, N, N, N-trimethyl-2-[(2-methyl isophthalic acid-oxygen-2-acrylic) oxygen]-muriatic cationic homopolymer or copolymer, polyquaternary ammonium salt-2 and quaternized chitosan; And

C) 3-20 weight % polyhydric alcohol;

Wherein said compositions comprises anion surfactant, zwitterionic surfactant or the amphoteric surfactant of 0～4 weight %.

2. the compositions of claim 1, the polymer of cation wherein is a cationic polysaccharide.

3. the compositions of claim 1, wherein the number-average molecular weight of polymer viscosifier is greater than 50000.

4. the compositions of claim 3, wherein the number-average molecular weight of polymer viscosifier is greater than 100000.

5. the compositions of claim 1, wherein polymer viscosifier is selected from polyacrylamide polymers, acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymer or their mixture.

6. the compositions of claim 1, polymer viscosifier wherein is a polyacrylamide polymers.

7. the compositions of claim 1, wherein the content of anion surfactant, amphion or amphoteric surfactant is lower than 2% in the compositions.

8. the compositions of claim 1, wherein when containing anion surfactant in the compositions, the polymer of cation and the ratio of anion surfactant are greater than 1 in the compositions.

9. skin protection beauty method is included in that application rights requires the described compositions of arbitrary claim among the 1-8 on the skin.