KR20010102282A - Cosmetic compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention provides a rib-on cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin comprising the following components (a) and (b) and comprising up to 4% anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants: to provide:

(a) a polymeric thickener selected from nonionic and anionic thickeners or mixtures thereof having a number average molecular weight of at least 20,000; And

(b) cation-containing polymers or mixtures thereof.

The compositions of the present invention exhibit low viscosity and good flow, absorption and insulation, in addition to the benefits of skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness.

Description

Cosmetic composition {COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS}

The skin consists of multiple cell layers covering and protecting keratin and collagen fiber proteins that form the framework of its structure. Of these layers, the outermost layer, referred to as the stratum corneum, is known to consist of a 25 nm protein mass surrounded by an 8 nm thick layer. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and destroy its complete state by delipidation (ie removal of lipids from the stratum corneum). This disruption of the skin surface morphology results in a rough feel, which in turn causes the surfactant or solvent to interact with keratin, causing irritation.

It is now recognized that maintaining adequate moisture changes throughout the stratum corneum is important for its function. Most of the moisture, which is sometimes considered to be a plasticizer of the stratum corneum, comes from inside the human body. If the humidity is too low, such as in cold climates, insufficient moisture remains in the outer layers of the stratum corneum, which does not adequately plasticize the tissue, and the skin begins to burn and itch. In case of lack of moisture throughout the stratum corneum, skin permeability is also somewhat reduced. On the other hand, if there is too much moisture outside of the skin, the stratum corneum will ultimately absorb 3-5 times its limit moisture weight. This results in swelling and wrinkles of the skin and an increase of about two to three times the permeability of moisture and other polar molecules.

Thus, there is a need for compositions that help the stratum corneum to maintain blocking and moisture-retaining functions at optimal performance, despite the harmful interactions the skin may experience during cleansing, action and rest.

Many cosmetic cream and lotion compositions are known to provide a variety of softening, blocking and moisture-retaining (moisturizing) benefits. However, they also provide a negative side in terms of skin feel and have a lack of rub-in and slow absorption into the skin. The skin feel of a composition perceived by the consumer as skin softness or skin smoothness relates to the emollients of the composition that form a film or layer when applied to the skin. Some cosmetic cream and lotion compositions have the desired skin feel, absorption and love-in properties, but lack moisture retention properties. Therefore, the desirable properties of cosmetic creams and lotions compositions are good skin feel, moisture retention, absorption and love-in properties. The absorption and love-in properties of the composition relate to its physical action under the mechanical stresses affected by the flow profile of the composition.

One means of changing the flow profile of the cosmetic composition is to incorporate various amounts of polymeric thickeners. Many types of thickeners are known and used in cosmetic compositions. However, compositions comprising polymeric thickeners often provide a negative side in sensory viscosity when applied to the skin. Thickeners, such as polyacrylamide, form a network and enhance viscosity upon introduction into an aqueous solution. When the composition is applied to the skin, evaporation of moisture increases the effective concentration of polymeric thickeners that increase the viscosity of the dry film and the sensory viscosity of the residue. This viscosity is further increased in the presence of polyhydric alcohols.

Accordingly, there remains a need for compositions that exhibit low viscosity and provide the benefits of good moisturizing, absorption, skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness.

EP-A-608353 discloses an aqueous gel comprising a nonionic polyacrylamide compound for use in skin care compositions having a pH of 4 or less. This composition may contain additional components such as a number of polymers that contribute to the film formability and the substance of the formulation.

Polymeric film formers such as Polyquaternium-10 are described in US Pat. No. 5,103,763 as a skin feel modifying compound useful for skin care compositions that are resistant to removal upon skin cleansing. US-A-4,938,951 also describes compositions comprising evaporative solvents, polymeric film formers, and topical actives. The composition is said to enhance the effective activity of the topical active agent, and in particular the membrane-forming polymer is described as having the ability to increase the effective activity of the topical active agent.

Personal cleaning compositions comprising water soluble surfactants, glycerin, and cationic film forming polymers such as Polyquaternium-10 are disclosed, for example, in WO96 / 17917 and WO96 / 17916. However, this composition also contains at least 4% anionic or amphoteric surfactants and is used as a rinse off product. The composition is also disclosed to optionally comprise a nonionic or anionic polymeric thickener. WO96 / 37589 also discloses personal cleaning compositions comprising fatty alcohol thickeners, cationic film forming polymers, anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants.

Now, unexpectedly, low stickiness or by incorporating a cation-containing polymer into a leave-on cosmetic composition comprising a polymeric thickener selected from nonionic and anionic thickeners or mixtures thereof having a number average molecular weight of 20,000 or more It has been found that a composition having a viscosity is provided. Without wishing to be bound by theory, the incorporation of a charged polymer such as Polyquaternium-10 into a cosmetic composition comprising a network of thickeners causes the charged polymer to be placed in the thickener network, thereby separating the network and thereby It is believed that entanglement and sensory viscosity are reduced. In addition to the benefits of skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness and good moisturizing properties, the compositions also exhibit good absorption, insulation and moisture retention.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions having reduced viscosity. The compositions also exhibit the advantages of good moisturizing properties and in-use rub-in and absorption properties, and good skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness.

According to a first aspect of the invention, it is suitable for topical application to the skin comprising the following components (a) and (b) and comprising up to 4% anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants: Rib-on cosmetic compositions are provided:

(a) a polymeric thickener selected from nonionic and anionic thickeners or mixtures thereof having a number average molecular weight of at least 20,000; And

(b) cation-containing polymers or mixtures thereof.

The compositions of the present invention exhibit low viscosity and good flow, absorption and insulation, in addition to the benefits of skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness.

According to a second aspect of the invention, there is provided a cosmetic treatment method of the skin comprising applying the composition according to the invention to the skin.

According to a third aspect of the invention, the use of a cation-containing polymer or mixture thereof for reducing viscosity in a skin care composition comprising a polymeric thickener selected from nonionic and anionic thickeners or mixtures thereof having a number average molecular weight of at least 20,000. Is provided.

According to a fourth aspect of the invention, a composition comprising a polymeric thickener and a cation-containing polymer or mixtures thereof selected from nonionic and anionic thickeners or mixtures thereof having a number average molecular weight of at least 20,000 for rib-on skin care applications. The use of is provided.

The composition of the present invention comprises a polymeric thickener selected from a nonionic or anionic thickener and an essential cation containing polymer component, or mixtures thereof, and also various optional components as described below. Unless otherwise noted, all amounts and ratios are relative to the total weight of the composition. Chain length and degree of ethoxylation are also defined based on weight average.

The term "viscosity" or "tackiness" as used herein in reference to a rib-on composition means the ability of the composition to bind weakly to the skin surface to which the composition is applied, in a short time upon application of mild pressure.

The term "sticky" or "sticky" as used herein is a term used by consumers to often indicate the real or perceived viscosity of the composition.

As used herein, the term "rib-on" as used herein refers to a rib-on composition, preferably after at least about 15 minutes, more preferably about 30 minutes, Even more preferably about 1 hour or more, most preferably several hours or more, for example up to about 12 hours.

The term "cationic containing polymer" as used herein refers to a polymer having at least 2%, preferably at least 5%, more preferably at least 10%, of molar weights of monomers containing cationic charge at pH 4 it means.

As used herein, the term "ampholytic" means a polymer comprising cationic and anionic monomers.

As used herein, the term “copolymer” means a combination of one or more monomers that are chemically different.

As used herein, the term “zwitterionic” means a compound having both positive and negative charges and present as a dipole ion at a wide range of pH.

As used herein, the term "amphoteric" means a compound that cationic at low pH and anionic at high pH. At an intermediate pH called the equipotential point, the compound has both positive and negative charges, i.e. dipole ions.

The term "basic" as used herein means a polymer in which the cationic charge increases with decreasing pH.

The term "skin conditioning agent" as used herein refers to moisturizing, wetting (ie, the ability to retain or retain water or moisture in the skin), softening, visual improvement of the skin surface, smoothness of the skin, softness of the skin and skin feel It means a substance that can provide skin with the benefits of cosmetic conditioning, such as the improvement of.

The term "non-blocking" as used herein means that the component does not substantially or block the passage of air and moisture through the skin surface.

The composition of the present invention can be used for any suitable purpose. In particular, the compositions of the present invention are suitable for topical application to the skin. In particular, the skin care composition may be in the form of a cream, lotion, gel or the like. Preferably the cosmetic composition of the present invention is in the form of one or more oily emulsions in an aqueous continuous phase.

Polymeric thickeners

As an essential component, the compositions of the present invention comprise a polymeric thickener selected from nonionic and anionic thickeners or mixtures thereof having a number average molecular weight of at least 20,000. More preferably, the polymeric thickeners of the present invention have a number average molecular weight of at least 50,000, in particular at least 100,000.

Typically, the compositions of the present invention comprise polymeric thickeners or mixtures thereof from about 0.01 to about 10 weight percent, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8 weight percent, most preferably from about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent of the composition. .

When the polymeric thickener is used in the composition of the present invention, the amount of monovalent to polyvalent metal ions is preferably 1% or less, more preferably 0.25% or less, even more preferably 0.05 so as not to interfere excessively with the stability of the polymer. Should be less than or equal to%

Preferred nonionic thickeners include polyacrylamide polymers, crosslinked poly (N-vinylpyrrolidone), polysaccharides, natural and synthetic gums, polyvinylpyrrolidone, and polyvinyl alcohol. Preferred anionic thickeners include acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, carboxyvinyl polymers, and crosslinked copolymers of alkylvinyl ethers and maleic anhydride. Particularly preferred thickeners for use in the present invention are nonionic polyacrylamide polymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, or mixtures thereof. More particularly preferred thickeners for use in the present invention are nonionic polyacrylamide polymers.

Polyacrylamide polymer

Nonionic polyacrylamide polymers useful in the present invention are branched or unbranched substituted polyacrylamides. The polymer is a nonionic water dispersible polymer which may be formed from various monomers including acrylamide and methacrylamide which are unsubstituted or substituted with one or two alkyl groups (preferably C ₁ -C ₅ ). Preferably, the acrylate amide and methacrylate amide, such as acrylamide, meta, of which the nitrogen of the amide is unsubstituted or substituted with one or two C ₁ -C ₅ alkyl groups (preferably methyl, ethyl or propyl). Krylamide, N-methacrylamide, N-methylmethacrylamide, N, N-dimethyl methacrylamide, and N, N-dimethyl acrylamide are mentioned. Such monomers are disclosed in US Pat. No. 4,963,348 (Bolich, Jr. et al., October 16, 1990), which is generally incorporated herein by reference. The copolymer may optionally be formed using conventional neutral crosslinkers such as dialkyl compounds. The use of such crosslinkers in cationic polymers is described in US Pat. No. 4,628,078 (Glover et al., Dec. 9, 1986) and US Pat. No. 4,599,379 (Flesher et al., July 8, 1986) incorporated herein by reference. Is disclosed. The nonionic copolymer has a molecular weight of at least about 1,000,000, preferably at least about 1,500,000 and up to about 30,000,000. Preferably, as a result of synthesis by reverse phase emulsion polymerization, the nonionic polyacrylamide contains a high HLB surfactant (HLB of about 7 to about 10) which helps to facilitate its water dispersion. Predispersed in a water-immiscible solvent such as oil. Most preferred for use in the present invention are CTFA names: polyacrylamide and nonionic polymers of isoparaffin and laureth-7, sold under the trade name “Sepigel 305” by Seppic Corporation.

Other polyacrylamide polymers useful in the present invention include acrylamide and multi-block copolymers of substituted acrylamide with acrylic acid and substituted acrylic acid. Commercially available examples of such multi-block copolymers include Lipo Chemicals, Inc. Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SSSA100H from (Patterson, NJ) are mentioned.

Cross-linked poly (N-vinylpyrrolidone)

Crosslinked polyvinyl (N-pyrrolidone) useful in the present invention is described in US Pat. No. 5,139,770 (Shih et al., Aug. 18, 1992) and US Pat. No. 5,073,614 (Shih et al., Dec. 17, 1991). It includes. The gelling agents are typically divinyl ethers and diallyl ethers of terminal diols containing about 2 to about 12 carbon atoms, divinyl ethers and diallyl ethers of polyethylene glycol containing about 2 to about 600 units, about It contains about 0.25 to about 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent selected from the group consisting of dienes having 6 to about 20 carbon atoms, divinyl benzene, vinyl of pentaerythritol, allyl ether and the like. Typically, the gelling agent has a viscosity of about 25,000 to about 40,000 mPa · s (cps) when measured as a 5% aqueous solution at 25 ° C. using a Brookfield RVT viscometer (Spindle # 6, 10 rpm). Commercially available examples of such polymers include ACP-1120, ACP-1179 and ACP-1180 available from International Specialty Products (Wayne, NJ).

Polysaccharides

A wide variety of polysaccharides are suitable for use in the present invention. "Polysaccharide" means a gelling agent containing a backbone of repeating sugar (ie carbohydrate) units. Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, methyl And those selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Alkyl substituted cellulose is also useful in the present invention. In such polymers, the hydroxy groups of the cellulose polymers are hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to form hydroxyalkylated cellulose, which is then C10 to C30 straight or branched through ether linkages. It is further modified with a chain alkyl group. Typically, these polymers are ethers of C10 to C30 straight or branched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses. Examples of alkyl groups useful in the present invention include stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl (ie, alkyl groups derived from alcohols of coconut oil), palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, Linoleyl, ricinoleyl, behenyl, and mixtures thereof. For materials based on hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl molar substitution is at least 3.0. Of the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers, the substance given the CTFA name to cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose is preferred, which is the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethyl cellulose. The material is tradename Natrosol from Aqualon Corporation. Marketed as CS Plus.

Other useful polysaccharides include scleroglucans comprising linear chains of (1-> 3) bound glucose units with (1-> 6) bound glucose every three units, commercially available An example is Michel Mercier Products Inc. (Mountainside, NJ) from Clearogel ^™ CS11.

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Other thickeners useful in the present invention are acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica , Hydroxypropyl chitosan, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dex Materials selected from tran, sodium carrageenan, tragacand gum, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof.

In addition, acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymer and B.F. Carboxyvinyl polymers sold under the trade name Carbopol resin by Goodrich Company are also useful. Suitable Carbopol resins are described in WO98 / 22085.

Crosslinked Copolymer of Alkyl Vinyl Ether and Maleic Anhydride

In this copolymer, the vinyl ether is represented by the formula RO-CH = CH ₂ (wherein R is a C1-C6 alkyl group, preferably methyl). Preferred crosslinking agents are C4 to C20 dienes, preferably C6 to C16 dienes, and most preferably C8 to C12 dienes. Particularly preferred copolymers are those formed from methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, wherein the copolymer is crosslinked with decadiene and the polymer is diluted as a 0.5% aqueous solution at pH 7, 25 ° C., Brookfield RTV Viscometer It has a viscosity of 50,000-70,000 mPa.s (cps) as measured by (spindle # 7, 10 rpm). The CTFA name of this copolymer is PVM / MA Decadiene Crosslinked Polymer and is marketed as Stabileze ^™ 06 by International Specialty Products (Wayne NJ).

Cation-containing polymer

As another essential ingredient, the composition of the present invention comprises a cation containing polymer or mixtures thereof as defined above.

The composition of the present invention preferably comprises about 0.01 to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, and particularly about 0.1 to about 1% by weight of the cation-containing polymer or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the cation-containing polymer in the present invention is water soluble, water dispersible or water swellable. "Water swellable" means the ability of a cation containing polymer to increase in volume or expand in aqueous solution.

Suitable cation containing polymers for the compositions of the present invention include cationic, amphoteric, amphoteric, basic and zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof.

Cationic polymers suitable for the compositions of the present invention include cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, cationic homo or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, cationic copolymers including vinylpyrrolidone; Cationic copolymers comprising acrylic acid or derivatives thereof, cationic alone or copolymers of ethaneaminium, N, N, N-trimethyl-2-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] -Chloride, Polyquaternium-2 and quaternized chitosan, or mixtures thereof. Preferred cation-containing polymers for the compositions of the invention are cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof.

Suitable non-limiting examples of cationic polysaccharides include: cellulose; Hydroxyalkyl celluloses such as hydroxyethyl cellulose; Cationic cellulose derivatives having a molecular weight in the range of 120,000 to 2,000,000 and comprising, for example, quaternary ammonium groups such as polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxides, more particularly (CTFA) Polyquaternium-10 is known in the art and "JR" such as "JR-125", "JR-400", "JR-30M", "LR-500" by Union Carbide Corporation (Danbury, Conn., USA). And cellulose ω-ether modified with α- [2-hydroxy-3-trimethylammonio) propyl] -ω-hydroxypoly (oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) chloride sold as "LR", (CTFA Diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride / hydroxyethyl cellulose copolymer known in the art as Polyquaternium-4 and sold under the trade names "Celquat L 200" or "Celquat H-100" by the National Starch Company (Salisbury, NC, USA). , And Polyquaternium-24 as known in the art, and Amerc hol Corp. Polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide sold by Edison, NJ, USA; "Quatrisoft Polymer LM-200"; Starch, such as Staley Inc. 2-hydroxy-3 of starch, sold under the trade names "Sta-Loc 300" and "Sta-Loc 400" from Decateur, Ill., USA, reacting with quaternary amines to form ethers at the hydroxyl position -Trimethyl ammonium chloride propyl ether, hydroxyalkyl starch, polymer based on arabinose monomer, polymer derived from xylose, polymer derived from fucose, polymer derived from fructose, galacturonic acid and glucuronic acid Acid-containing sugar based polymers, such as galactosamine and glucosamine, especially amine sugar based polymers such as acetylglucosamine, polymers based on 5- or 6-membered ring polyalcohols, polymers based on galactose, and mannose monomers Cationic starch such as polymer.

Suitable cationic polysaccharide gum derivatives include derivatives of galactomannan copolymer based polymers known as guar gum. For example, Rhone-Poulenc is sold under the trade names "Jaguar HP-60", "Jaguar HP-8", "Jaguar HP-79", "Jaguar HP-120", "Jaguar HP-200", or Aqualon " Compounds such as hydroxypropyl guar gum sold as Galactasol "; Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride sold by Rhone-Poulenc under the trade name "Jaguar C-162"; Or for example under the trade names "Jaguar C-14S", "Jaguar C-17", "Jaguar C-13S" in Rhone-Poulenc, Aqualon, Hercules Inc. Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride commercially available from Zwijndrecht, The Netherlands as "N-Hance", such as "N-Hance 2196", or as "Cosmedia Guar C-261" by Henkel Inc (Teaneck, NJ, USA). The polymeric compound like this is mentioned.

Cationic sole or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride suitable for use in the present invention are commercially available under the tradename Polyquaternium-6 or Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA) under the tradename "Merquat 100", CPS Chemical Company (West Memphis, AR, USA) Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride) commercially available as "Agequat 400", or as "Mirapol 100" in Rhone-Poulenc; And polymeric quaternary ammonium salts consisting of acrylamide and dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride monomers sold under the trade name Polyquaternium-7 or Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA) under the trade name "Merquat 550".

Cationic copolymers comprising vinylpyrrolidone suitable for use in the present invention are polyvinylpyrrolidone N, N-dimethyl sold under the trade name Polyquaternium-11 or ISP (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the trade name "Gafquat 755N". Aminoethyl methacrylic acid copolymer diethyl sulfate solution; Polymeric quaternary ammonium salts formed from methylvinylimidazolium chloride and vinylpyrrolidone, sold under the trade name Polyquaternium-16 or BASF (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the trade name "Luviquat FC 370"; Vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer sold under the trade name Polyquaternium-28 or ISP (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the trade name “Gafquat HS-100”; Polymeric quaternary ammonium salts consisting of vinylpyrrolidone and quaternized imidazoline monomers, sold under the trade name Polyquaternium-44 or BASF (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the trade name "Luviquat MS-370"; And quaternary ammonium salts prepared by reacting vinylcaprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone with methylvinylimidazolium methosulfate, sold under the trade name Polyquaternium-46 or BASF (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the trade name "Luviquat Hold". Include.

Suitable cationic copolymers comprising acrylic acid or derivatives thereof are prepared by reacting an ethylmethacrylate / abiethylmethacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, commercially available under the trade name Polyquaternium-12, with dimethyl sulfate. Polymeric quaternary ammonium salts; Polymeric materials; And copolymers of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate and DMAPA monomers, sold under the trade name Polyquaternium-43 or Societe Francaise Hoescht under the trade designation "Bozequat 4000".

Suitable cationic soles or copolymers of ethanealuminum, N, N, N-trimethyl-2-[(2-methyl-1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] -chloride, useful in the present invention, may be used under the trade name Polyquaternium-. Polymeric material sold under the trade name "Plex 3073L" by 45 or Rohm GmbH (Germany); Polymeric material marketed under the trade name "Salcare SC92" by the trade name Polyquaternium-32 or Allied Colloids (Bradford, N.Yorkshire, UK), ethaneaminium, N, N, N-trimethyl-2-[(2-methyl-1- Oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] -chloride, polymer with 2-propenamide; And polymeric material sold under the trade name "Salcare SC95" by the trade name Polyquaternium-37 or Allied Colloids (Bradford, N.Yorkshire, UK), ethanealuminum, N, N, N-trimethyl-2-[(2-methyl-1 -Oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] -chloride, homopolymer.

Other suitable cationic polymers useful in the present invention are known in the art as Polyquaternium-2 and are poly (oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) (dimethylimino) -1 sold under the trade name Mirapol A-15 by Rhone-Poulenc. , 3-propanediylimino carbonyl-imino-1,2-propanediyl (dimethylimminio) -1,2-ethanediyl dichloride; And dihydroxypropyl chitosan trimonium chloride sold under the trade name Kytamer KC under the trade name Polyquaternium-29 or Amerchol.

Suitable amphoteric polymers for the compositions of the present invention are amphoteric acrylic acid-containing copolymers and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylic acid sold under the trade name Polyquaternium-22 or under the trade name "Merquat 280" by Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA); Acrylic acid / diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer sold by Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA) under the trade names Polyquaternium-39 or trade names "Merquat Plus 3330" and Merquat Plus 3331 "; and Calgon (Pittsburg, PA, USA) Quaternary ammonium salts formed by the polymerization of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride sold under the trade name Polyquaternium-47 or trade name "Merquat 2001N".

Amphoteric polymers suitable for the compositions of the present invention include combinations in which tertiary amine monomers are combined with anionic monomers, further comprising nonionic monomers such as methacrylamidopropyldimethyl ammonium / acrylic acid copolymers; And polymers derived from methacrylamidoethylcarboxymethylhydroxyethylamine monomers of the formula:

Suitable basic polymers for the compositions of the present invention include copolymers of tertiary amine derivatives with homopolymers and nonionic monomers. Examples of suitable materials include vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethylmethacryl, marketed under the trade name PVP / dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer or trade name "Copolymer 845/937/958" from ISP (Wayne, NJ, USA). Polyvinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer prepared from acrylate monomers; And amine-derived polymers such as the ethyleneimine polymer represented by the formula (CH ₂ CH ₂ NH) _n , for example n has an average value of 10, and PEI-10, n sold under the trade name "Polymin FG" by BASF, has an average value. 15, PEI-15 sold by Aceto under the trade name "Epomin SP-006", n has an average value of 45; PEI-45 sold under the trade name "Epomin SP-018" by Aceto, or n has an average value of 1400. , PEI-1400 sold by Nalco under the trade name "Nalco 634".

Suitable zwitterionic polymers for the compositions of the present invention include polymers derived from methacrylamidopropylbetaine monomers, such as copolymers of methacrylamidopropylbetaine and nonionic monomers. Examples of such polymers include vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropylbetaine copolymers.

Preferred cation containing polymers of the present invention are cationic and amphoteric polymers. Cationic or amphoteric polymers selected from cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof and amphoteric acrylic acid containing copolymers, or mixtures thereof are preferably used in the present invention. Even more preferred are cation-containing polymers selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic polysaccharide guar gum derivatives and acrylic acid / diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymers, or mixtures thereof. Most preferred cation-containing polymers of the compositions of the present invention are selected from Polyquaternium-10, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar gum and acrylic acid / diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymers or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition of the present invention contains 4% or less of anionic surfactant, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant, more preferably 2% or less, most preferably 1% or less.

In a preferred embodiment, when the composition of the present invention contains an anionic surfactant, the composition has a ratio of cation containing polymer to anionic surfactant of at least one.

In another preferred embodiment, the composition may comprise from about 0 to about 2%, more preferably from about 0.01 to about 1% of C8 to C30 fatty acids.

Polyhydric alcohol

In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition of the present invention comprises one or more polyhydric alcohols.

When polyhydric alcohols are present, the compositions of the present invention are preferably in total amounts of about 3 to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 5 to about 15% by weight, in particular about 7 to about 12% by weight of polyhydric alcohols or Mixtures.

Polyhydric alcohols suitable for use in the present invention include polyalkylene glycols, more preferably alkylene polyols including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydride Oxypropyl sorbitol, erythritol, threitol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, glutitol, mannitol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol (e.g. 1,3-butylene glycol), hexane triol (e.g. 1,2,6-hexanetriol), trimethylol propane, neopentyl glycol, glycerin, ethoxylated glycerin and propoxylated glycerin.

Preferred polyhydric alcohols of the present invention are selected from glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, hexane triols, ethoxylated glycerin and propoxylated glycerin, or mixtures thereof.

Most preferred polyhydric alcohols for use in the present invention are glycerin and polyethylene glycols and derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof.

In view of providing improved viscosity benefits, the weight ratio of the cation containing polymer to the polyhydric alcohol is preferably in the range of about 1: 200 to about 1: 1, more preferably about 1: 100 to about 1: 5.

Oil phase

The cosmetic composition of the invention is preferably in the form of an emulsion of one or more oil phases in a continuous aqueous phase, each oil phase comprising a single oil component or a mixture of oil components in a miscible or homogeneous form. Different oil phases include different materials or combinations thereof. The total amount of oil phase components in the composition of the present invention is usually about 0.1 to about 60%, preferably about 1 to about 30%, more preferably about 1 to about 10%, most preferably about 2 to about 10%.

Preferably, the oily component of the composition of the invention comprises a softening material or mixtures thereof, polyol carboxylic acid esters and silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the oil phase preferably comprises natural or synthetic oils selected from additional oil components such as mineral, vegetable and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof. Such oil components are present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 1% to about 10% by weight of the composition. Preferred examples include saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and hydrocarbons such as mineral oil or mineral oil. Another example suitable for use in the present invention is disclosed in WO98 / 22085. In a preferred embodiment, about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of the unsaturated fatty acid or ester disclosed in WO98 / 22085.

Softening material

The composition of the present invention may comprise a softening material selected from branched chain hydrocarbons having a weight average molecular weight of about 100 to about 15,000, preferably about 100 to 1,000; For example compounds of formula (I) and compounds of formula (II) and mixtures thereof:

[Wherein R ¹ is selected from H or CH ³ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently selected from C ₁ to C ₂₀ straight or branched chain alkyl, and x is an integer from 1 to 20.]

Wherein R ⁵ is optionally selected from hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl substituted benzyl and R ⁶ is selected from C ₁ -C ₂₀ straight or branched chain alkyl.].

Branched chain hydrocarbons suitable for use in the present invention are selected from isododecane, isohexadecane, iseoic acid, isooctahexacontane, isohexapentacontahetan, isopentacontaoctanetan, and mixtures thereof. Branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbons suitable for use in the present invention are described in Presperse Inc. (P.O. Box 735, South Plainfield, N.J. 07080, U.S.A.) under the trade name Permethyl (RTM). Suitable ester softening materials of formula I are methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl octanoate, isodedecyl isononanoate, tridecyl Isononanoate, myristyl octanoate, octyl pelargonate, octyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate, myristyl neopentanoate, myristyl octanoate, myristyl propionate, isopropyl myristate And mixtures thereof, but is not limited to these. Suitable ester softening materials of formula (II) include, but are not limited to, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.

Preferred softeners for use in the present invention are isohexadecane, isooctacontane, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, myristyl octanoate, octyl Isononanoate, myristyl myristate, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred emollients for use in the present invention include isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, or mixtures thereof.

The softening material is present in the composition in an amount of about 0.1 to about 10 weight percent of the composition, preferably about 0.1 to about 8 weight percent, in particular about 0.5 to about 5 weight percent.

Polyol carboxylic acid ester

The composition of the present invention may further comprise a polyol carboxylic acid ester as an additional softener.

The composition of the present invention preferably comprises from about 0.01 to about 20% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, and particularly preferably from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of the polyol ester. The amount of polyol ester relative to the weight of oil in the composition is preferably about 1 to about 30%, more preferably about 5 to about 20%. In view of providing improved skin softness and smoothness benefits, the weight ratio of carboxylic acid polyol ester to the aforementioned softening material is preferably from about 5: 1 to about 1: 5, more preferably from 2: 1 to about 1 The range is: 2.

Preferred polyol polyesters useful in the present invention are C ₁ to C ₃₀ mono- and poly-esters of sugars and related materials. These esters are derived from sugar or polyol components and one or more carboxylic acid components. Depending on the acids and sugars that make up, these esters may be in liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples include glucose tetraoleate, galactose tetraester of oleic acid, sorbitol tetraoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate, sorbitol hexaester Where the carboxylic ester component is palmitolate and arachidate present in a molar ratio of 1: 2, and the octaester of sucrose, wherein the esterified carboxylic acid component is present in a molar ratio of 1: 3: 4 Laurate, linoleate and behenate). Other substances include cottonseed oil or soybean oil fatty acid esters of sucrose. Other examples of such materials are described in WO 96/16636, which is incorporated herein by reference. Particularly preferred materials are those known as INCI name sucrose polycottonseedate.

Silicone oil

The composition of the present invention preferably comprises at least one silicone oil phase. The silicone oil phase (s) typically comprise from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 5% of the composition. The or each silicone oil phase preferably comprises at least one silicone component.

The silicone component can be a fluid and includes straight chain, branched and cyclic silicones. Suitable silicone fluids useful in the present invention include polyalkyl siloxane fluids, polyaryl siloxane fluids, cyclic and linear polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkoxylated silicones, amino and quaternary ammonium modified silicones, polyalkylaryl siloxanes or polyether siloxane copolymers. And silicones comprising mixtures thereof. The silicone fluid may be volatile or nonvolatile. Silicone fluids typically have a weight average molecular weight of about 200,000 or less. Suitable silicone fluids have a molecular weight of about 100,000 or less, preferably about 50,000 or less, most preferably about 10,000 or less. Preferably, the silicone fluid is selected from silicone fluids having a weight average molecular weight in the range of about 100 to about 50,000, preferably about 200 to about 40,000. Typically, the silicone fluid has a viscosity at 25 ° C. in the range of about 0.65 to about 600,000 mm 2 .s ⁻¹ , preferably about 0.65 to about 10,000 mm 2 .s ⁻¹ . The viscosity can be measured with a glass capillary viscometer as described in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004 (July 29, 1970). Suitable polydimethyl siloxanes that may be used in the present invention include, for example, those sold by the General Electric Company in the SF and Viscasil (RTM) series and in Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. Also useful are essentially nonvolatile polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as polymethylphenylsiloxane, having a viscosity of about 0.65 to 30,000 mm 2 · s ⁻¹ at 25 ° C. These siloxanes are commercially available, for example, as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid from General Electric Company or 556 Cosmetic Grade fluid from Dow Corning. Cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes suitable for use in the present invention are those having a ring structure in which about 3 to about 7 (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO components are incorporated.

In a preferred embodiment, the silicone fluid is selected from dimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, phenyl methicone, and mixtures thereof.

Silicone gums can also be used in the present invention. The term "silicone gum" as used herein means a high molecular weight silicone having a weight average molecular weight of greater than about 200,000, preferably from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000. Nonvolatile polyalkyl and polyaryl siloxane gums. In a preferred embodiment, the silicone oil phase comprises a silicone gum or a mixture of silicones including silicone gums. Typically, silicone gums have a viscosity of greater than about 1,000,000 mm 2 .s ⁻¹ at 25 ° C. Silicone gums described by Petrarch, and US-A-4,152,416 (May 1, 1979, Spitzer et al.) And other documents including Nol, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones , New York: Academic Press 1968. Dimethicone. Also described as silicone gums are General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76. Specific examples of silicone gums include polydimethylsiloxane, (polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, poly (dimethylsiloxane) (diphenyl) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof. Preferred silicone gums for use in the present invention are silicone gums having a molecular weight of about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 and are selected from dimethiconol and dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

The silicone phase of the present invention preferably comprises a silicone gum incorporated into the composition as part of a silicone gum-fluid formulation. When the silicone gum is incorporated as part of a silicone gum-fluid formulation, the silicone gum preferably comprises about 5 to about 40 weight percent, in particular about 10 to 20 weight percent of the silicone gum-fluid formulation. Silicone gum-fluid formulations suitable for the present invention are essentially mixtures consisting of:

(i) silicon having a molecular weight of about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 and selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone, and mixtures thereof; And

(ii) a carrier that is a silicone fluid and has a viscosity of about 0.65 to about 100 mm 2 .s ⁻¹ .

In the above, the ratio of component i) to ii) is about 10:90 to about 20:80, and the silicone gum base component has a final viscosity of about 100 to about 100,000 mm 2 .s ^-1 , preferably 500 to about 10,000 Mm 2 s ⁻¹ .

Particularly preferred silicone gum fluid formulation base components for use in the compositions of the present invention are dimethiconol gum having a molecular weight of about 200,000 to about 4,000,000, and a silicone fluid carrier having a viscosity of about 0.65 to 100 mm 2 .s ^-1 . Examples of such silicone components are Dow Corning Q2-1403 (85% 5 mm 2 .s ⁻¹ dimethicone fluid / 15% dimethiconol) and Dow Corning Q2-1401 available from Dow Corning.

Another silicone component suitable for use in the silicone oil phase herein is a crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer, optionally dispersed in a fluid carrier. Generally, in the presence of a crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer and its carrier (if present), from 0.1 to about 20% of the composition, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5 to about Accounted for 5%. The polymer comprises a polyorganosiloxane polymer crosslinked by a crosslinking agent. Suitable crosslinking agents are described in WO98 / 22085. Examples of polyorganosiloxane polymers suitable for use in the present invention are methyl vinyl dimethicone, methyl vinyl diphenyl dimethicone and methyl vinyl phenyl methyl diphenyl dimethicone.

Commercially specific crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers for use in the present invention are silicones sold under the trade names KSG, eg, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-17, KSG-18 by Shinetsu Chemical Co., Ltd. Vinyl crosslinked polymer mixture. These materials contain blends of crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers and silicone fluids. Particularly preferred for use in combination with organic amphiphilic emulsifier materials in the present invention is KSG-18. Granted INCI names KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-17 and KSG-18 are cyclomethicone dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, dimethicone dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer, cyclomethicone dimethicone, respectively Ticone / vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer and phenyl trimethicone dimethicone / phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosslinked polymer.

Another class of silicone components suitable for use in the silicone oil phase herein includes polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers containing at least one polydiorganosiloxane moiety and at least one polyoxyalkylene moiety. Suitable polydiorganosiloxane moieties and copolymers thereof are described in WO98 / 22085. Suitable polydiorganosiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers are available from Wacker-Chemie GmbH (Geschaftsbereich S, Postfach D-8000 Munich 22) under the trade names Belsil (RTM) and Th. Goldschmidt Ltd. (Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA4 0YL) under the trade names Abil (RTM), for example Belsil (RTM) 6031 and Abil (RTM) B88183. Particularly preferred copolymer fluid formulations for use in the present invention include Dow Corning DC3225C having the CTFA name Dimethicone / Dimethicone Copolyol.

Amphiphilic Surfactant

Another preferred component of the composition of the present invention is an organic amphiphilic surfactant capable of forming smectic tropic crystals in the product or when the product is applied to the skin at ambient or elevated temperatures. Organic amphiphilic surfactants have been found to be particularly useful herein for improving the stability and skin feel of the compositions of the present invention. Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a nonionic amphiphilic surfactant in an amount of about 0.01 to about 4%, preferably about 0.05 to about 3%, more preferably about 0.08 to about 2%. A preferred class of nonionic amphiphilic surfactants suitable for the present invention and their properties are disclosed in WO98 / 22085, which is incorporated herein by reference. Mono-, di- and tri-acyl sugar esters and mixtures thereof containing from about 8 to about 24 acyl substituents, preferably from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms and 0, 1 or 2 unsaturated moieties, and polyethylene Glycol derivatives, or mixtures thereof, are preferred in the present invention. Fatty acid ester formulations based on sorbitan or a mixture of sorbitol fatty acid esters and sucrose fatty acid esters are more preferred in the present invention, wherein the fatty acids are in each case preferably C ₈ -C ₂₄ , more preferably C _10- C ₂₀ . Preferred fatty acid ester emulsifiers in terms of moisturizing are sorbitan or sorbitol C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty acid esters and sucrose C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ fatty acid esters, in particular a combination of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. It is sold under the trade name Arlatone 2121 by ICI.

Humectant

The composition of the present invention may preferably comprise additional wetting agents present in an amount of about 0.01 to about 20%, more preferably about 0.1 to about 15%, particularly preferably about 0.5 to about 15%.

Suitable additional wetting agents useful in the present invention include sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate (NaPCA), guanidine; Glycolic acid and glycolate salts (eg ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); Lactic acid and lactate salts (eg ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); Aloe vera in any of a variety of forms (eg aloe vera gel); Hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof (eg, salt derivatives such as sodium hyaluronate); Lactamide monoethanolamine; Acetamide monoethanolamine; Urea; Panthenol and derivatives thereof; And mixtures thereof.

At least a portion of the additional wetting agent (up to about 5% by weight of the composition) may be added to the aqueous or disperse phase, preferably crosslinked hydrophobic acrylic of particulates present in an amount of from about 0.1 to about 10% per se. It may be incorporated in the form of a mixture with a rate or methacrylate copolymer. The copolymers are particularly useful for gloss reduction and oil control, helping to provide effective moisturizing benefits and are described in more detail in WO96 / 03964, which is incorporated herein by reference.

The above-mentioned compounds may be incorporated alone or in combination. Preferred additional wetting agents are selected from urea, panthenol and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred in view of increased moisturizing is a combination of glycerin and urea. In a preferred embodiment, the urea is preferably present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight of the composition, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight, particularly preferably from about 1% to about 5% by weight.

In a preferred embodiment, the oily and organic amphiphilic surfactant, when present, is preliminary to water at a temperature above (but preferably less than about 60 ° C.) above the Kraft Point of the organic amphiphilic surfactant. They are mixed to form liquid crystals / oil in an aqueous dispersion before urea addition. In the present invention, urea has been found to be particularly effective when combined with amphiphilic emulsifier surfactants and polyol fatty acid polyesters to provide significant skin hydration and softness in the context of oil-in-water skin care emulsion compositions.

A wide variety of optional ingredients such as additional thickeners, non-blocking moisturizers, neutralizers, flavors, colorants and surfactants may also be added to the skin compositions of the present invention.

Another additional thickener useful in the present invention is a water soluble glycerol poly (meth) acrylate lubricant (eg Hispagel). ); Polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricants sold under the trade name Lubrajel (RTM) by Guardian Chemical Corporation (230, Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, NY 11787), and mixtures thereof. In general, Lubrajel can be described as a hydrate or clathrate formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate and methacrylic acid polymers. The hydrate or clathrate then stabilizes with a small amount of propylene glycol and then controls the hydration of the product obtained. Lubrajel is commercially available in a number of different grades of glycerate: polymer ratio and viscosity. Suitable Lubrajel are Lubrajel TW, Lubrajel CG and Lubrajel MS, Lubrajel WA, Lubrajel DV and so-called Lubrajel Oil.

Suitable neutralizing agents for use in neutralizing the acidic group-containing hydrophilic gelling agents in the present invention include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, amino methyl propanol, tris-buffer and triethanolamine.

The composition of the present invention is generally in the form of an emulsion, preferably at least about 4,000 mPa · s, preferably about 4,000 to about 300,000 mPa · s, more preferably about 8,000 to about 250,000 mPa · s, in particular about It is formulated to have a product viscosity of 10,000 to about 200,000 mPa · s, even more particularly about 10,000 to about 150,000 mPa · s (25 ° C., pure water, Brookfield RVT, TC Spindle, 5 rpm and Heliopath Stand).

The composition of the present invention may also contain from about 0.01% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5% of panthenol humectant. Panthenol moisturizers include D-panthenol ([R] -2,4-dihydroxy-N- [3-hydroxypropyl] -3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, Panthetin, pantothene, panthenyl ethyl ether, panmic acid, pyridoxine, pantoyl lactose and vitamin B complex.

Other optional materials include, but are not limited to, keratinizers / epidermal agents such as salicylic acid; Proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; Germall 115, methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, EDTA, Euxyl (RTM) K400, bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropan-1,3-diol) and phenoxypropanol Water-soluble or soluble preservatives, preferably in an amount of about 0.1 to about 5%; Antimicrobial substances such as Irgasan (RTM) and phenoxyethanol (preferably from about 0.1 to about 5% amount); Hilaronic acid and starch-grafted sodium polyacrylate (e.g., Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-, commercially available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials (Portsmith, VA, USA) and disclosed in USA-A-4,076,663) Soluble or colloid-soluble moisturizers such as 2500); Vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E and derivatives thereof and vitamin K; Alpha and beta hydroxy acids; Aloe vera; Sphingosine and phytosphingosine, cholesterol; Skin whitening agents; N-acetyl cysteine; coloring agent; Flavoring and flavoring solubilizers.

Sunscreen agents are also useful in the present invention. Various sunscreen agents are disclosed in US Pat. No. 5,087,445 (Haffey et al., Feb. 11, 1992); US Patent No. 5,073,372 (Turner et al., Dec. 17, 1991); U.S. Patent 5,073,371 (Turner et al., Dec. 17, 1991); And in Chapter VIII, p. 189 et seq., Of Cosmetics Science and Technology (Segarin et al.). Preferred among these sunscreen agents useful in the compositions of the present invention are 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimi Dazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomentyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, 4,4'-methoxy- t -butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, 3-benzyl Leeden camphor, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide, Parsol MCX, Eusolex 6300, octocrylene, Parsol 1789, and mixtures thereof. Other useful sunscreen agents are described in US Pat. No. 4,937,370 (Sabatelli, June 26, 1990); And US Pat. No. 4,999,186 (Sabatelli et al., March 12, 1991).

In general, sunscreen agents may comprise from about 0.5 to about 20% of compositions useful in the present invention. The exact amount varies depending on the sunscreen chosen and the desired sun protection factor (SPF). SPF is a commonly used measure of photoprotection of sunscreens against erythema. (See Federal Register , Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269, August 25, 1978).

The composition of the present invention may further comprise about 0.1 to about 5 weight percent of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate. Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate is an aluminum salt of the reaction product of octenylsuccinic anhydride and starch. Sold under the trade name Dry Flo. Dry Flo is useful in the present invention in terms of skin feel and application properties.

Other optional materials in the present invention include pigments that contribute to the total amount of oil phase components when they are water-insoluble and are included in these components. Pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention may be organic and / or inorganic pigments. In addition, low color or gloss materials such as matte finishes and also light scattering agents are included in the pigments of the term. Preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises a particulate material having a refractive index of about 1.3 to about 1.7, wherein the particulate material is dispersed in the composition and has an intermediate particle size of about 2 to about 30 μm. Preferably, the microparticles useful in the present invention have a relatively narrow distribution, meaning that at least 50% of the particles are within 3 μm of each median. It is also preferred that at least 50%, preferably at least 60%, more preferably at least 70% of the particles be within the size ranges defined for each median. Suitable particulate materials are organic or organosilicones and preferably organosilicon polymers. Preferred particles are free-flowing, solid materials. "Solid" means that the particles are not hollow. The voids in the center of the hollow particles can adversely affect the refractive index and thus adversely affect the visual effect of the particles on the skin or the composition. Suitable organic particulate materials include the aforementioned polymethylsilsesquioxanes, polyamides, polytenes, polyacrylonitriles, polyacrylic acids, polymethacrylic acid, polystyrenes, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and poly (vinylidene) Chloride). Copolymers derived from monomers of the aforementioned materials can also be used. Inorganic materials include silica and boron nitride. Representative commercial examples of particulate materials useful in the present invention include Tospearl having an intermediate particle size of about 4.5 μm. 145, and EA-209, commercially available from Kobo, an ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer having a median particle size of about 10 μm. Or mixtures thereof.

Another example of a suitable pigment is titanium dioxide, pre-dispersed titanium dioxide from Kobo, for example Kobo GWL75CAP, iron oxide, asyglutamate iron oxide, ultramarine blue, D & C dye, carmine and mixtures thereof. Depending on the type of composition, mixtures of pigments are generally used. Preferred pigments for use in the present invention in terms of moisturizing, skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility are treated pigments. Pigments may be treated with compounds such as amino acids, silicones, lecithins and ester oils.

Vitamin B ₃ ingredient

The composition of the present invention may also comprise a safe and effective amount of a vitamin B ₃ compound. The composition of the present invention is preferably about 0.01 to about 50%, more preferably about 0.1 to about 20%, even more preferably about 0.5 to about 10%, even more preferably about 1 to about 8%, most preferably Preferably from about 1.5 to about 6% of a vitamin B ₃ compound.

As used herein, "vitamin B ₃ compound" means a compound having the formula: a derivative thereof, a salt of any of the foregoing:

Wherein R is -CONH ₂ (ie niacinamide), -COOH (ie nicotinic acid) or -CH ₂ OH (ie nicotinyl alcohol)).

Examples of derivatives of the vitamin B ₃ compound include nicotinic acid esters, wherein the nicotinic acid esters are non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N- Oxides and niacinamide N-oxides.

Suitable nicotinic acid esters include nicotinic acid esters of C ₁ -C ₂₂ , preferably C ₁ -C ₁₆ , more preferably C ₁ -C ₆ alcohols. Alcohols are suitably straight or branched chain, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted or unsubstituted. The ester is preferably nonvascular expansion. "Non vasodilatation" as used herein means that the ester does not usually exhibit a visual flushing response after it is applied to the skin in the desired composition (the compound may cause vasodilation, which is not visible to the naked eye, Most of them do not experience a visual flush response). Non-vascular expanding esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate, with tocopherol nicotinate being preferred. A more complete description of vitamin B ₃ compounds is given in WO98 / 22085.

Examples of such vitamin B ₃ compounds are known in the art and include, for example, the Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. Commercially available from various sources such as (Irvin, Ca) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI). One or more vitamin B ₃ compounds may be used in the present invention. Preferred vitamin B ₃ compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is more preferred.

Retinoid

The composition of the present invention may also contain a retinoid. As used herein, "retinoid" includes all natural and / or synthetic analogues of vitamin A or retinol-based compounds that retain the biological activity of vitamin A in the skin and the geometric or stereoisomers of these compounds. Retinoids are preferably retinol, retinol esters (e.g. C ₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl esters of retinol including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, and / or retinic acid (all Trans retinic acid and / or 1,3-cis retinic acid), more preferably retinoids other than retinic acid. These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources, such as Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO) and Boehringer Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN). Preferred retinoids are retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinal and combinations thereof. More preferred are retinol and retinyl palmitate. Retinoids may be contained as substantially pure substances or as extracts obtained by suitable physical and / or chemical separation from natural (eg plant) sources.

The composition of the present invention preferably contains about 0.005 to about 2%, more preferably 0.01 to about 2% of the retinoid. Retinol is most preferably used in an amount of about 0.01 to about 0.15%; Retinol esters are most preferably used in amounts of about 0.01 to about 2% (eg about 1%).

In addition, combinations of vitamin B ₃ compounds and retinoids may provide an advantage in controlling skin condition, as disclosed in WO98 / 22085, incorporated herein by reference. Suitably, the pH of the composition of the present invention is at least 4.25, preferably at least 4.5, more preferably at least 4.75, more preferably at most 9, more preferably at most 8 and even more preferably at most 7. The water content of the compositions of the present invention is generally about 30 to about 98.89% by weight, preferably about 50 to about 95% by weight, in particular about 60 to about 90% by weight.

The compositions of the present invention are preferably in the form of moisturizing creams or lotions that can be applied to the skin as rib-on products. The invention is illustrated by the following examples.

Examples I-VI

ingredient % w / w % w / w % w / w % w / w % w / w % w / w glycerin 7.00 7.00 9.00 12.00 15.00 - Polyethylene glycol 200 ¹ - 3.00 - - 10.00 Urea - 2.20 1.80 - - - Kronos (TiO ₂ ) ² - 0.15 0.15 - 0.15 0.15 Kobo GWL75CAP ³ 0.50 - 0.20 0.30 - - Tospearl 145a ⁴ - - 0.50 2.00 - - Arlatone 2121 ⁵ 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Sepigel 305 ⁶ 2.50 1.50 3.00 3.00 2.00 3.00 Sodium hydroxide (40% solution) 0.03 0.04 0.05 0.08 0.10 0.10 Hydrofolic acid 0.09 0.10 0.12 0.13 0.10 0.10 Myrj 59 ⁷ 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Stearyl alcohol 0.38 0.40 0.32 0.48 0.80 1.2 Cetyl alcohol 0.80 1.00 0.72 0.72 1.80 0.80 Isopropyl isostearate ⁸ 1.50 0.75 1.50 1.00 0.5 2.00 SEFA cotton Eight ⁹ 1.00 1.50 0.75 1.80 - - Isohexadecane 1.00 - - - 0.50 1.00 Mineral oil - - - - 1.20 0.50 Ethyl paraben 0.10 0.15 0.15 0.20 0.20 0.25 Profile paraben 0.15 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.25 0.25 Benzyl alcohol 0.15 0.20 0.20 0.25 0.25 0.30 D-panthenol 0.50 0.50 - - 0.50 1.00 Niacinamide 2.00 2.50 - - 2.00 5.00 Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 DC Q2-1403 ¹⁰ 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.50 2.00 2.50 Tocopherol acetate 0.50 0.25 0.25 0.75 0.50 - Polyquaternium 39 ¹³ 0.15 0.20 0.25 - - - Polyquaternium 10 ¹⁴ 0.10 - - 0.20 0.30 0.35 Deionized water Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100 Up to 100

1. Supplied by Union Carbide Corporation (Danbury, Conn., USA).

2. Supplied by Kronos (4 Place Ville Marie # 500, Montreal, Quebec, Canada).

3. Supplied by Kobo Products Inc (690 Montrose Ave, So Plainfield, NJ 07080).

4. Supplied by GE Silicones (Plasticslaan 1 / PO Box 117, 4600 AC Bergen op Zoom Netherlands).

5. Supplied by ICI Surfactants (PO Box 90, Wilton Centre, Middlesborough, Cleveland, Enbland. TS6 8JE).

6. Supplied by Seppic (75, Quai D'Orsay, Paris).

7. PEG 100 stearate from ICI (PO Box 90, Wilton Centre, Middlesborough, Cleveland, Enbland. TS6 8JE).

8. Scher Chemicals Inc. (Industrial West, Clifton, NJ 07012).

9. Sugars and C ₁ -C ₃₀ monoesters or polyesters of one or more carboxylic acid moieties described herein, preferably having a degree of esterification of 7 to 8, wherein the fatty acid moiety is C ₁₈ mono- and / or di-unsaturated. And sucrose polyesters which are behenic (molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic = 1: 7 to 3: 5), more preferably octaester of sucrose with about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule, For example, sucrose esters of cottonseed oil fatty acids.

10. Supplied by Dow Corning (Kings Court, 185 Kinds Rd, Reading, Berks, RG1 4EX).

11. Supplied by Union Carbide Corporation (Danbury, Conn., USA).

12. Available from Aqualon (Hercules Inc) (Noordweg 9, 3336 LH Zwinjndrecht, P.O Box 71, 3330 AB Zwijndrecht, The Netherlands).

13. Supplied by Calgon Corporation (43 Hawthorne Av, NJ 07506).

14. Supplied by Union Carbide Corporation (Danbury, Conn., USA).

The composition was prepared as follows:

A first premix was prepared by mixing anionic thickener (if present), glycerin / TiO ₂ premix, cation containing polymer, Arlatone 2121, if present, and other water soluble ingredients except urea in water, to about 80 ° C. Heated. An oily component comprising an emulsifier and an oil-soluble preservative other than silicone oil was mixed to prepare a second premix, heated and then added to the aqueous premix.

If a polymeric anionic thickener is present, sodium hydroxide was added before shearing to neutralize to pH 6-7.5, and then cooled to about 60 ° C. In the presence of a polymeric nonionic thickener, the process was as described above, but no polymeric thickener, for example Sepigel 305 (polyacrylamide), was added until the mixture was cooled to 60 ° C. Sepigel 305 was added under shear, followed by NaOH solution. In both cases, EDTA, silicone oil, and then urea solution (1 g dissolved in 1 ml of water) were added to the oil-in-water emulsion obtained, and then the mixture was cooled before the addition of the subcomponents. The composition was immediately packaged.

The composition exhibits low viscosity, good flow, absorption and insulation, in addition to the benefits of skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness.

Claims (16)

(a) a polymeric thickener selected from nonionic and anionic thickeners or mixtures thereof having a number average molecular weight of at least 20,000; And (b) a cation containing polymer or mixtures thereof, A leave-on cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin, comprising up to 4% anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant. The composition of claim 1 wherein the cation containing polymer is selected from cationic or amphoteric polymers, or mixtures thereof. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the cation-containing polymer is a cationic polysaccharide or derivative thereof. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the cation-containing polymer is an amphoteric acrylic acid containing copolymer. The composition of claim 1, wherein the cation containing polymer is selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic polysaccharide guar gum derivatives and acrylic acid / diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymers, or mixtures thereof. The cation-containing polymer according to any one of claims 1 to 5, preferably from about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, or a mixture thereof. Composition comprising a. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the number average molecular weight of the polymeric thickener is at least 50,000, in particular at least 100,000. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polymeric thickener is selected from polyacrylamide polymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, or mixtures thereof. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polymeric thickener is a polyacrylamide polymer. 10. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, most preferably from about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of polymeric thickener or mixtures thereof. Composition comprising a. The composition of claim 1, further comprising about 3 to about 20% polyhydric alcohol or a mixture thereof. 12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants of preferably up to 2%, more preferably up to 1%. The composition of claim 1, wherein when the composition comprises an anionic surfactant, the composition has a ratio of at least one cationic containing polymer to anionic surfactant. A method for cosmetic treatment of the skin comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 to the skin. Use of a cation-containing polymer or mixtures thereof for reducing viscosity in skin care compositions comprising a polymeric thickener selected from nonionic and anionic thickeners or mixtures thereof having a number average molecular weight of at least 20,000. Use for rib-on skin care applications of a composition comprising a polymeric thickener selected from nonionic and anionic thickeners or mixtures thereof having a number average molecular weight of at least 20,000, and cation containing polymers or mixtures thereof.