JP2002537236A - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Abstract

  (57) [Summary] A leave-on cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin, comprising: a) a polymer selected from nonionic and anionic thickener components having a number average molecular weight of more than 20,000, or mixtures thereof. A leave-on cosmetic composition comprising: a thickener component; b) a cation-containing polymer, or a mixture thereof, wherein said composition comprises less than 4% of an anionic, zwitterionic, or amphoteric surfactant. . The compositions of the present invention exhibit good rheological, absorption, and coating properties, as well as the benefits of skin feel, skin softness, and skin smoothness, as well as low levels of tack.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition. In particular, it relates to a cosmetic composition having a reduced level of tack. The composition also has good moisture retention and ease of rubbing in use (in-use
It exhibits the properties of rub-in) and absorption, as well as the benefits of excellent skin feel, skin softness, and skin smoothness.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The skin is made up of several layers of cells that cover and protect the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins that form the framework of the skin's structure. The outermost of these layers
It is known as the stratum corneum and is composed of a 25 nm protein bundle surrounded by an 8 nm thick layer. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and destroy the integrity of the stratum corneum by defatting (ie, removing lipids from the stratum corneum). This disruption of the skin surface topography can lead to a grainy feel, and eventually surfactants or solvents may interact with keratin and cause inflammation.

[0003] It is now recognized that maintaining an appropriate moisture gradient throughout the stratum corneum is important for its functionality. This water is sometimes used to soften the stratum corneum
, Most of which originate in the body. If the humidity is too low, as in a cold climate, there is insufficient moisture in the outer layers of the stratum corneum to adequately soften the tissue, and the skin begins to flake and itch. Insufficient moisture in the stratum corneum also reduces skin permeability to some extent. On the other hand, if there is too much water outside the skin, the stratum corneum will eventually absorb three to five times the weight of the combined water of the stratum corneum itself. This swells and folds the skin, resulting in an approximately 2-3 fold increase in skin permeability to moisture and other polar molecules.

[0004] Thus, despite the harmful interactions that the skin encounters during washing, working and resting, the stratum corneum maintains its protective and optimal water-retaining function. There is a need for compositions that help

[0005] Many cosmetic cream and lotion compositions are known to provide varying degrees of skin softening, protection, and moisture retention (moisturizing) effects. However, they have drawbacks in terms of skin feel, difficulty in rubbing into the skin and slow absorption. The feel of the composition to the skin is perceived by consumers as skin softness or skin smoothness and is related to the emollient properties of the composition which form a film or layer when applied to the skin. Certain cosmetic cream and lotion compositions have the desired skin feel, absorbency and ease of rubbing, but have poor moisture retention. Thus, desirable properties of cosmetic creams and lotion compositions are excellent skin feel, moisture retention, absorbency, and ease of rubbing. The absorbency and ease of rubbing of a composition is related to its physical properties under mechanical stress that is affected by the rheological properties of the composition.

[0006] One means of modifying the rheological properties of a cosmetic composition is to incorporate varying amounts of a polymeric thickener component. Numerous types of thickeners are known and used in cosmetic compositions. However, compositions comprising a polymeric thickener component include:
It often has a downside in that it feels sticky when applied to the skin. Thickener components, such as polyacrylamide, become entangled in the aqueous solution, form a network, and increase tack. When such a composition is applied to the skin, it evaporates the water to increase the effective concentration of the polymeric thickener component, which in turn increases the tack of the dried film and the tack of the residue Will be. This tackiness is further exacerbated by the presence of polyhydric alcohols. Thus, there is a need for a composition that is still less tacky, as well as having the benefits of excellent moisturizing, absorbency, skin feel, skin softness, and skin smoothness.

[0007] EP 608353-A discloses an aqueous gel comprising a nonionic polyacrylamide compound for use in a skin care composition, wherein the composition has a pH of less than 4. The composition may include additional components, such as various polymers that promote film-forming properties and formulation directness.

[0008] Polymer film formers such as polyquaternium 10 have been described in US Pat. No. 5 as effective skin feel modifying compounds for skin care compositions that are difficult to remove when washing the skin.
, 103, 763. Moreover, U.S. Pat. No. 4,938,951
Discloses a composition comprising a volatile solvent, a polymer film former, and a topical active. The composition enhances the effective activity of the topically active agent, specifically,
It is stated that the film-forming polymer is capable of increasing the effective activity of the topically active agent.

[0009] Personal care detergent compositions comprising a water-soluble surfactant, glycerin and a cationic film-forming polymer such as polyquaternium 10 are described, for example, in WO96 /
17917 and WO 96/17916. However, such compositions further comprise 4% or more of an anionic or amphoteric surfactant,
It is intended for use as a rinse-off product. Also disclosed are compositions that optionally include a nonionic polymer or an anionic polymeric thickener component. Furthermore, WO
No. 96/37589 describes a personal care detergent composition comprising an aliphatic alcohol thickener, a cationic film-forming polymer, an anionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, and a zwitterionic surfactant. Have been.

[0010] At present, leave-on cosmetics comprising a polymeric thickener component selected from nonionic and anionic thickener components having a number average molecular weight of more than 20,000, or mixtures thereof, It has been surprisingly found that by mixing with the composition, the composition becomes less tacky or tacky. Without being limited by theory, mixing a charged polymer, such as polyquaternium 10 with a network of thickener components, into a cosmetic composition places the charged polymer within the network of the thickener and breaks the network apart. Release, thereby reducing entanglement and tackiness of the composition. The composition exhibits good absorption, coating, and moisture retention properties in addition to the benefits of skin feel, skin softness, and skin smoothness, and excellent moisture retention.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION According to one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a leave-on cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin, comprising: a) a nonion having a number average molecular weight of more than 20,000 B) a cation-containing polymer, or a mixture thereof, wherein the composition comprises less than 4% of a polymeric thickener component, selected from the group consisting of anionic and anionic thickener components, or mixtures thereof. Includes anionic, zwitterionic, or amphoteric surfactants.

The compositions of the present invention exhibit good rheological, absorption, and coating properties, as well as the benefits of skin feel, skin softness, and skin smoothness, and have low tack. Show.

According to a second aspect of the invention, there is provided a cosmetic method for treating the skin, comprising applying a composition according to the invention to the skin.

According to a third aspect of the present invention, comprising a polymeric thickener component selected from nonionic and anionic thickener components having a number average molecular weight greater than 20,000, or a mixture thereof. The use of cation-containing polymers or mixtures thereof to reduce the stickiness of skin care compositions is provided.

According to a fourth aspect of the present invention, a polymeric thickener component selected from nonionic and anionic thickener components having a number average molecular weight greater than 20,000, or a mixture thereof; A composition comprising a cation-containing polymer or a mixture thereof,
Offers to be used for leave on skin care applications.

The composition of the present invention comprises a polymer thickener component selected from nonionic and anionic thickener components together with an essential cation-containing polymer component, or a mixture thereof, and as shown below. Various optional ingredients. All concentrations and proportions are by weight of the total composition, unless otherwise specified. Chain length and degree of ethoxylation are also specified on a weight average basis.

The terms “tack” or “tackiness”, as used herein, refers to a leave-on composition for a short time when light pressure is applied when the composition is applied. Within means the ability of the composition to lightly adhere to the skin surface. The terms "stickiness" or "sticky" as used herein, whether the actual or sensory stickiness of the composition, allows the consumer to Often used to express the perception of stickiness.

The term “leave-on” as used herein, for a skin care composition, after applying the composition to the skin, the leave-on composition is preferably applied to the skin for at least about 15 minutes, more preferably at least about 15 minutes. It is meant to be used without a rinsing step, so that it remains for about 30 minutes, even more preferably for at least about 1 hour, most preferably for at least several hours, for example up to about 12 hours.

The term “cation-containing polymer” as used herein refers to a polymer having at least 2%, preferably at least 5%, more preferably at least 10%, by weight, of monomers having a cationic charge of pH 4 Means The term "amphoter" as used herein refers to a polymer comprising a cationic monomer and an anionic monomer. The term "copolymer", as used herein, refers to the attachment of two or more chemically distinct monomers.

The term “zwitterionic”, as used herein, refers to compounds that carry both positive and negative charges and exist as bipolar ions at a wide range of pH. The term "amphoteric" as used herein refers to a cationic action at low pH,
A compound that exhibits anionic action at high pH is meant. Intermediate pH called isoelectric point
In the compound, the compound carries positive and negative charges, ie it is a bipolar ion. The term "basic" as used herein means a polymer whose cationic charge increases with decreasing pH.

The term “skin conditioning agent” as used herein refers to moisturizing, moisturizing (ie, the ability to store or retain moisture or humidity within the skin), softening of the skin, visual improvement of the skin surface. , A substance capable of cosmetically conditioning the skin, such as soothing the skin, softening the skin, and improving skin feel. The term "non-occlusive" as used herein means that the components so described do not occlude or substantially occlude the air and moisture pathways through the surface of the skin. I do.

The compositions of the present invention may be used for any suitable purpose. In particular, the compositions according to the invention are suitable for topical application to the skin. In particular, the skin care composition may be in the form of a cream, lotion, gel and the like. The cosmetic compositions herein are preferably in the form of an emulsion of one or more oily phases in an aqueous continuous phase.

As an essential component of the polymeric thickener component, the composition of the present invention comprises a polymeric thickener having a number average molecular weight greater than 20,000, selected from nonionic and anionic thickener components, or mixtures thereof. Contains a viscosity component. The polymer thickener component of the present invention is more preferably 50,
It has a number average molecular weight of more than 000, and particularly preferably a number average molecular weight of more than 100,000.

In general, the compositions of the present invention will have as high as about 0.01 to about 10%, preferably about 0.1 to about 8%, and most preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of the composition. Molecular thickener component,
Or mixtures thereof.

When using the polymeric thickener component in the compositions herein, the monovalent to multivalent metal ion concentration is preferably 1% so as not to unduly interfere with the stability of the polymer. , More preferably less than 0.25%, and even more preferably 0.05
%.

Preferred nonionic thickener components include polyacrylamide polymers, crosslinked poly (N-vinylpyrrolidone), polysaccharides, natural and synthetic rubbers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, and polyvinyl alcohol. Preferred anionic thickener components include acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymer, carboxyvinyl polymer,
And cross-linked copolymers of alkyl vinyl ethers and maleic anhydride.
Particularly preferred thickener components for use in the present invention are nonionic polyacrylamide polymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, or mixtures thereof. Even more particularly preferred for use in the present invention are nonionic polyacrylamide polymers.

Polyacrylamide Polymers The nonionic polyacrylamide polymers useful herein are branched or unbranched substituted polyacrylamides. These polymers are unsubstituted or
Nonionic water-dispersible polymers that can be formed from various monomers containing acrylamide and methacrylamide substituted with one or two alkyl groups (preferably C ₁ -C ₅ ). Preference is given to acrylamide and methacrylamide in which the amide nitrogen is unsubstituted or substituted by one or two C ₁ -C ₅ alkyl groups (preferably: methyl, ethyl or propyl), for example , Acrylamide, methacrylamide, N-methacrylamide, N-dimethylmethacrylamide, N, N-dimethylmethacrylamide, and N, N-dimethylacrylamide. These monomers are disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,963,348 (Bolich, JR. Et al., Issued Oct. 16, 1990), which is commonly incorporated by reference herein. . These copolymers can optionally be formed using conventional neutral crosslinkers such as dialkenyl compounds.
The use of such crosslinkers in cationic polymers is disclosed in U.S. Pat.
No. 78 (Glover et al., Issued Dec. 9, 1986) and U.S. Pat. No. 4,599,379 (Flesher et al., Issued Jul. 8, 1986), both of which are incorporated herein by reference. Both are incorporated by reference herein. These nonionic copolymers have a molecular weight of greater than about 1,000,000, preferably greater than about 1,500,000, and up to about 30,000,000. As a result of being preferably synthesized by reversed phase emulsion polymerization, these nonionic polyacrylamides contain a pre-high HLB surfactant (HLB about 7 to about 10) which helps promote the water dispersibility of the polyacrylamide. Disperse in water-immiscible solvents such as oils. Most preferred for use in the present invention is a nonionic polymer designated CTFA, available from Sepic (Se
polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and laureth 7 sold under the trade name Sepigel 305 by Ppic Corporation.

[0028] Another polyacrylamide polymer useful herein is a multi-block copolymer of acrylamide, acrylamide substituted with acrylic acid, and substituted acrylic acid. Examples of commercial products of such multi-block copolymers include Hypan SR150H, SS500V, SS500W, SS500W from Lipo Chemicals, Inc., Patterson, NJ, USA.
SA100H.

Crosslinked Poly (N-Vinylpyrrolidone) Crosslinked polyvinyl (N-pyrrolidone) useful herein includes US Pat.
39,770 (Shih et al., Issued Aug. 18, 1992) and U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,614 (Shih et al., Dec. 17, 1991). included. These gelling agents typically contain from about 0.25 to about 1% by weight.
Divinyl and diallyl ethers of terminal diols containing from about 2 to about 12 carbon atoms, divinyl and diallyl ethers containing from about 2 to about 600 units of polyethylene glycol, from about 6 to about 20 carbon atoms. A crosslinking agent selected from the group consisting of diene, divinylbenzene, vinyl and allyl ether of pentaerythritol. Typically, these gelling agents are from about 25,000 to about 45,000 as measured at 10 rpm using a Brookfield RVT viscometer equipped with a # 6 spindle at 25 ° C. as a 5% aqueous solution.
It has a viscosity of 000 mPa.s (cps). Examples of commercial products of these polymers include International Species Products (International Spec.
ACP- commercially available from iality Products, Wayne, NJ
1120, ACP-1179, and ACP-1180.

Polysaccharides A wide variety of polysaccharides are suitable for use in the present invention. By "polysaccharide" is meant a gelling agent containing a framework that repeats units of sugar (ie, carbohydrates). Non-limiting examples of polysaccharide gelling agents include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, microcrystalline And cellulose cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. Alkyl-substituted celluloses are also useful herein. Among these polymers, the hydroxy groups of the cellulosic polymer are hydroxyalkylated (preferably hydroxyethylated or hydroxypropylated) to make hydroxyalkylated cellulose, and further C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ via ether linkages. With a linear or branched alkyl group. Typically these polymers are ethers of straight or branched chain alcohols with hydroxyalkylcelluloses of C ₁₀ -C _30. Examples of alkyl groups useful herein include stearyl, isostearyl, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, isocetyl, cocoyl (ie, alkyl groups derived from the alcohol of coconut oil).
, Palmityl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenil, ricinoleyl, behenyl,
And mixtures thereof. Those materials based on hydroxyethyl cellulose have a molar substitution of 3.0 for hydroxyethyl.
Exceeds. Preferred among the alkyl hydroxyalkyl cellulose ethers are those whose CTFA is cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose and the ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethyl cellulose. This material is commercially available from Aqualon Corporation under the trade name Natrosol® CS Plus.

[0031] Other useful polysaccharides are available in commercial products, including scleroglucans, which include linear (1-> 3) linked glucose units and every three units (1-> 6) linked glucose. An example of this is Michel Mercier Product
s Inc., Clealogale, Mountainein, NJ, USA
rogel) ® CS11.

[0032] Examples of other thickeners ingredients useful in rubber herein, gum arabic, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum , Hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silicon, hydroxypropyl chitosan, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate,
Includes materials selected from sclerotium gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

In addition, B. F. Also useful are acrylic acid / ethyl acrylic acid copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers sold by the BF Goodrich Company under the trade name Carbopol resin.Suitable carbopol resins are WO 98/22085. It is described in.

Crosslinked Copolymers of Alkyl Vinyl Ethers with Maleic Anhydride The vinyl ethers in these copolymers are represented by the formula RO-CH = CH ₂ , where R is a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, preferably R is methyl. Preferred crosslinking agents in diene C ₄ -C _20, preferably C ₆ -C _16, most preferably C ₈ -C _{1 2} diene. A particularly preferred copolymer is a copolymer formed from methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride, wherein the copolymer crosslinks with decadiene and, when the polymer is diluted in a 0.5% aqueous solution, at pH 7 at 25 ° C.
, A viscosity of 50,000 to 70,000 mPa.s (cps) is measured using a Brookfield RTV viscometer (spindle # 7, 10 rpm). This copolymer has the CTFA designation PVM / MA decadiene crosspolymer,
It is commercially available from International Specialty Products, Wayne, NJ, USA as Stabilize tm06.

Cation-Containing Polymer As a further essential component, the compositions herein comprise the cation-containing polymer described above,
Or mixtures thereof. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01 to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.05 to about 5%, and particularly preferably from about 0.1 to about 1% by weight of a cation-containing polymer. Or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the cation-containing polymers herein are water-soluble, water-dispersible, or water-swellable. "Swellable in water" means the ability of a cation-containing polymer to expand or swell in aqueous solution. Suitable cation-containing polymers for the compositions herein include cationic, amphoteric, amphoteric, basic, and zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof.

Suitable cationic polymers for the compositions herein include cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, cationic homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, cationic copolymers including vinylpyrrolidone; acrylic acid or their derivatives. Cationic copolymers containing derivatives, cationic homopolymers or copolymers of ethaneaminium, N, N, N-trimethyl-2-[(2-methyl 1-oxo-2-propenyl) oxy] -chloride, polyquaterniums 2 and 4 Graded chitosan, or mixtures thereof. Preferred cation-containing polymers for the compositions herein are cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof.

Non-limiting examples of suitable cationic polysaccharides include the following: cellulose; hydroxyalkyl cellulose such as hydroxyethyl cellulose;
Cationic cellulosic derivatives, such as polymers of quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose having a molecular weight in the range of 2,000,000 and containing quaternary ammonium groups and reacting with trimethylammonium substituted epoxides;
More specifically, it is known in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10 and is sold by Union Carbide Corporation (Danbury, Conn., USA) as "JR" and "LR" such as "JR-125", "JR-125" J
Alpha- [2-hydroxy-3-trimethylammonio) propyl] -omega-hydroxypoly (oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) chloride, known as "R-400", "JR-30M", "LR-500". Modified cellulose-omega-ether, referred to in the art (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 4 and trade name "
Diallyldimethylammonium chloride / hydroxyethylcellulose copolymer and lauryldimethylammonium substituted epoxide commercially available from the National Starch Company, Salisbury, North Carolina, USA as "Celquat L200" or "Celquat H10" Quatrisoft polymer LM-200
And is referred to in the art as polyquaternium 24, and Amerch
ol Corp., Edison, NJ, USA) polymers of quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose; trade names "Sta-Loc 300" and "Sta-" which react with starch, e.g. A polymer based on cationic starch, hydroxyalkyl starch, arabinose monomer, xylose, such as 2-hydroxy-3-trimethylammonium chloride propyl ether of starch, commercially available from Staley inc., Decatur, Ill., USA as "Loc 400". , Polymers derived from fucose, polymers derived from fructose,
Polymers based on acid-containing sugars such as galacturonic acid and glucuronic acid, polymers based on amine sugars such as galactosamine and glucosamine, especially acetylglucosamine, polymers based on 5- or 6-membered polyalcohols, polymers based on galactose, and Polymers based on mannose monomers are included.

[0039] Suitable cationic polysaccharide gum derivatives include polymer derivatives based on galactomannan copolymers known as guar gum. For example, a compound such as hydroxypropyl guar gum is available under the trade name "Jaguar HP-60."
"," Jaguar HP-8 "," Jaguar HP-79 "," Jaguar HP-120 "
, "Jaguar HP-200" from Rhone-Poulenc or Aqualon (Aq as "Galactasol")
commercially available from ualon); hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride is available under the trade name "Jaguar C-162" from Rhone-Poulenc.
Commercially available from Poulenc); or polymeric compounds such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride are available, for example, under the trade names "Jaguar C-14S", "Jaguar C-17", "Jaguar C-13S" by Rhone Poulenc. -Poulen
c), "N-Hance", e.g. "N-Hance 2196" is from Aqualon, Hercules Inc, Zwijndrecht, The Netherlands, or "Cosmedia Guar C-261" is Henkel I
nc, Teaneck, NJ, USA).

Suitable cationic homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride for use in the present invention are Calgon (Pittsburgh, PA, USA) under the trade designation Polyquaternium 6 or trade name “Merquat 100”. From the CPS Chemical Company (West Memphis, Arkansas, USA) as "Agequat 400" or from Rhone Poulin as "Mirapol 100".
ne-Poulenc) commercially available poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride);
And trade name Polyquaternium 7 or trade name "Merquat 550"
"A quaternary ammonium salt polymer consisting of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride monomers commercially available from Calgon (Pittsburgh, PA, USA).

Suitable cationic copolymers containing vinylpyrrolidone for use in the present invention include I
Product name Polyquaternium-11 from SP (Wayne, NJ, USA)
Or polyvinylpyrrolidone N commercially available under the trade name "GAFQUAT 755N"
, N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylic acid copolymer diethyl sulfate solution; polymer prepared from methyl vinyl imidazolium chloride and vinyl pyrrolidone commercially available from BASF (Parsippany, NJ, U.S.A.) under the trade name Polyquaternium 16 or trade name "Rubiquat 370" A quaternary ammonium salt; vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer sold under the trade designation Polyquaternium-28 or trade name "GAFQUAT HS100" by ISP (Wayne, NJ, USA); from BASF (Parsippany, NJ, USA) Vinylpyrrolidone marketed under the trade designation Polyquaternium-44 or trade name "Rubiquat MS-370"; and Quaternary ammonium salts of polymers consisting of quaternized imidazoline monomers; and methyl vinylcaprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone, commercially available from BASF (Parsippany, NJ) under the trade designation Polyquaternium 46 or trade name "Rubiquat Hold" Includes quaternary ammonium salts prepared by reacting with vinyl imidazolium methosulfate.

Examples of suitable cationic copolymers comprising acrylic acid or derivatives thereof include:
A quaternary ammonium salt of a polymer prepared by the reaction of an ethyl methacrylate / abiethyl methacrylate / diethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer with dimethyl sulfate marketed under the trade designation Polyquaternium 12; a polymeric substance; and a copolymer of acrylamide, acrylamidopropyl The trade names Trimonium Chloride, 2-Amidopropylacrylamide Sulfonate and Polyquaternium-43, or "Bozequat 4000"
Under the trade name Societe Francaise Hoes
cht).

Suitable cation homo or copolymers of ethaneaminium useful herein,
N, N, N-trimethyl-2-[(2-methyl 1-oxo-2-prophenyl) oxy] -chloride is commercially available as Polyquaternium 45 or trade name “Plex (P
lex) 3073L ", a polymer material commercially available from Rohm GmbH, Germany; polymer material, ethanaminium, N, N, N-trimethyl-2-[(2-
Methyl 1-oxo-2-prophenyl) oxy] -chloride, commercially available from Allied Colloids, Bradford, North Yorkshire, UK under the trade designation Polyquaternium 32 or trade name "Salcare SC92". A polymer of propenamide; and a polymeric substance, ethanaminium,
N, N, N-trimethyl-2-[(2-methyl 1-oxo-2-prophenyl) oxy] -chloride, trade name polyquaternium-37 or trade name "Salcare (Sa
lcare) SC95 "is a homopolymer commercially available from Allied Colloids, Bradford, North Yorkshire, UK.

Other suitable cationic polymers useful herein are known in the art as Polyquaternium 2 and sold under the trade name Mirapol A15 by Rhone.
Poly (oxy 1,2-ethanediyl) (dimethyliminio) -1,3-propanediiriminocarbonyl-imino 1, commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc
2-propanediyl (-dimethyliminio) -1,2-ethanediyl dichloride; and trade name polyquaternium-29 or trade name Kytamer KC
Dihydroxypropylchitosantrimonium chloride commercially available from Amerchol.

Suitable amphoteric polymers for the compositions herein are amphoteric acrylic acid containing copolymers, trade name polyquaternium 22 or trade name “Merquat 2”.
Copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylic acid commercially available from Calgon (Pittsburgh, Pa., USA) under the trade designation Polyquaternium-39 or trade name "Merquat Plus".
Acrylic acid / diallyldimethylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer and acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and methacrylamidopropyl trimonium, commercially available from Calgon, Calif., Pittsburgh, Pa., USA as "3330" and "Merquat Plus 3331" Includes quaternary ammonium salts produced by polymerization of chloride and marketed under the trade designation Polyquaternium-47 or trade name "Merquat 200" by Calgon (Pittsburgh, PA, USA).

Suitable amphiphilic polymers for the compositions herein include combinations of tertiary amine monomers with anionic monomers and further include nonionic monomers such as methacrylamidopropyldimethylammonium / acrylic acid Copolymers; and polymers derived from methacrylamidoethyl carboxymethyl hydroxyethylamine monomers as shown below.

[0047]

Embedded image

[0048] Basic polymers suitable for the compositions herein include tertiary amine derivatives and homopolymers of copolymers and nonionic monomers. Examples of suitable materials include those prepared from vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate monomer, commercially available under the trade designation PVP / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer or trade name "Copolymer 845/937/958" from ISP (Wayne, NJ, USA). Polyvinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer; amine-derived polymer such as ethyleneimine polymer which conforms to the general formula (CH ₂ CH ₂ NH) _n ; PEI10 commercially available from BASF as "";
5 and trade name "Epomin SP-006" as Aceto
PEI-15, which is commercially available, has an average value of 45, and has a trade name of “Epomin (Epom
PEI-45 commercially available from Aceto as "in) SP-018"; or n has an average value of 1400, and Nalco 634 as a trade name of Nalco 634
co) from PEI-1400.

[0049] Zwitterionic polymers suitable for the compositions herein include copolymers of methacrylamidopropyl betaine monomers and polymers derived from methacrylamidopropyl betaine monomers such as nonionic monomers. An example of such a polymer is a vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl betaine copolymer.

Preferred cation-containing polymers for the present invention are cationic or amphoteric polymers. Preferred for use in the present invention are cationic or amphoteric polymers selected from cationic polysaccharides or derivatives thereof and amphoteric acrylic acid-containing copolymers, or mixtures thereof. Even more preferred are cation-containing polymers selected from cationic cellulosic derivatives, cationic polysaccharide guar gum derivatives, and acrylic acid / diallyldimethylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymers, or mixtures thereof. The most preferred cation-containing polymer of the composition of the present invention is selected from polyquaternium 10, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyl guar gum and acrylic acid / diallyldimethylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compositions of the present invention contain less than 4% anionic surfactant, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant, more preferably less than 2% and most preferably 1%.
% Of anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants.

In a preferred embodiment, when the composition of the present invention comprises an anionic surfactant, the ratio of the cation-containing polymer to the anionic surfactant in the composition is greater than 1. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention may comprise from about 0 to about 2%, and more preferably from about 0.01 to about 1% of C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acids.

Polyhydric Alcohols In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the compositions of the present invention comprise one or more polyhydric alcohols. When a polyhydric alcohol is present, the composition of the present invention preferably comprises from about 3 to about 20
%, More preferably about 5 to about 15%, and especially about 7 to about 12% by weight.
Of all levels of polyhydric alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

Polyhydric alcohols suitable for use in the present invention include propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropylsorbitol, erythritol, threitol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, Glucitol,
Mannitol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol (for example, 1,3-
Butylene glycol), hexanetriol (for example, 1,2,6-hexanetriol), trimethylolpropane, neopentylglycol, glycerin,
Examples thereof include polyalkylene glycols containing ethoxylated glycerin and propoxylated glycerin, and more preferably alkylene polyols and derivatives thereof.

Preferred polyhydric alcohols of the present invention are selected from glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, hexanetriol, ethoxylated glycerin and propoxylated glycerin, or mixtures thereof. You.

The most preferred polyhydric alcohols for use in the present invention are glycerin and polyethylene glycol and their derivatives, or mixtures thereof. From the standpoint of improving tackiness benefits, the weight ratio of cation-containing polymer to polyhydric alcohol preferably ranges from about 1: 200 to about 1: 1 and more preferably from about 1: 100 to about 1: 5. Range.

Oil Phase Preferably, the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are in the form of an emulsion in which one or more oil phases are present in an aqueous continuous phase, each oil phase being a single oily component or an admixture or It contains the mixed oil component in a uniform form. The different oil phases contain different substances or combinations of different substances. The total concentration of the oil phase components of the compositions of the present invention is typically about 0.1 to about 60%, preferably about 1 to about 30%, more preferably about 1 to about 10%, and most preferably. 2% to 10%. Preferably, the oil phase component of the compositions herein comprises an emollient material or mixtures thereof, polyol carboxylic esters and silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the oily phase is an additional oil such as a natural or synthetic oil selected from mineral, vegetable and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof. It preferably contains various oily components. These oily components are present from about 0.1 to about 15%, more preferably from about 1 to about 10%, by weight of the composition. Preferred for use in the present invention are, for example, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and hydrocarbons such as mineral oil, mineral oil, or petrolatum. Further examples suitable for use in the present invention are disclosed in WO 98/22085. Preferred embodiments herein comprise from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of an unsaturated fatty acid or ester as described in WO 98/22085.

Emollient material The composition of the present invention is an emollient material selected from branched chain hydrocarbons having a weight average molecular weight of about 100 to about 15,000, preferably about 100 to 1000; Compounds of formula I:

[0060]

Embedded image Wherein R ¹ is selected from H or CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently selected from C ₁ -C ₂₀ straight or branched chain alkyl, and X is 1 A compound which is an integer of -20; and a compound having the formula II:

[0061]

Embedded image Wherein R ⁵ is optionally selected from hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl-substituted benzyl, and R ₆ is C ₁ -C ₂₀ branched or straight-chain alkyl; It may include a compound selected from a mixture.

[0062] Branched hydrocarbons suitable for use in the present invention are selected from isododecane, isohexadecane, isoeicosane, isooctahexacontane, isohexapentacontahectane, isopentacontaoctacutane, and mixtures thereof. . Branched aliphatic hydrocarbons suitable for use in the present invention are sold under the trade name Permethyl® by Presperse Inc., PO Box 735, 07080, South Plainfield, NJ, USA. I have. The above formula (I
)) Suitable ester emollient materials include, but are not limited to,
Methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, myristyl octanoate, octyl pelargonate, octyl isono Includes nanoates, myristyl myristate, myristyl neopentanoate, myristyl octanoate, myristyl vinyl propionate, isopropyl myristate, and mixtures thereof. Suitable ester emollient materials of Formula (II), but are not limited to, include alkyl benzoate of C ₁₂ ~ _15.

Preferred emollients for use in the present invention are isohexadecane, isooctacontan, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl octanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, tridecyl isononanoate, myristyl octanoate , Octyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate, methyl isostearate,
Isopropyl isostearate, C1215 alkyl benzoate and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred emollients for use in the present invention are isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, or mixtures thereof.

The emollient material preferably comprises about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of the composition of the composition,
Preferably it is present at a concentration of about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, particularly preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight.

Polyol Carboxylic Acid Esters The compositions of the present invention further comprise a polyol carboxylic acid ester as an additional emollient. The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01 to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 15%, and particularly preferably from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of a polyol ester. . The concentration of the polyol ester is preferably from about 1 to about 30% by weight, more preferably from about 5 to about 20% by weight of the oil in the composition. From the standpoint of providing the benefit of improving skin softness and smoothness, the weight ratio of the carboxylic acid polyol ester to the aforementioned emollient material is preferably from about 5: 1 to about 1: 1.
: 5, more preferably from 2: 1 to about 1: 2.

Preferred polyol polyesters useful in the present invention are the sugars and related substances C ₁ ~ C₃₀Monoesters and polyesters. Such esters may be sugars or polysaccharides.
It is derived from a dihydric alcohol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Constituent
Depending on the acid and sugar, these esters may be liquid or solid at room temperature.
I do. Examples include glucose tetraoleate and galactose ester of oleic acid.
Toraester, sorbitol tetraoleate, sucrose tetraoleate,
Sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepta
Oleate, sucrose octaoleate, sorbitol hexaester
Wherein the carboxylate moiety is palmitate and arachide in a molar ratio of 1: 2.
And octaester of sucrose, in which esterification
Laurate, linoleate and behenene in a molar ratio of 1: 3: 4
Is included. Other substances include sucrose cottonseed oil or soybean oil.
Fatty acid esters. Another example of such a material is WO 96/166.
No. 36, which is incorporated herein by reference. Especially preferred
The substance is known by the INCI name as sucrose polycotton seeds.

Silicone Oil The compositions of the present invention preferably contain at least one silicone oil phase. The silicone oil phase (s) is generally from about 0.1 to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 5% of the composition. . The or each silicone oil phase preferably contains one or more silicone components.

[0069] The silicone component can be fluid, including linear, branched, and cyclic silicones. Suitable silicone fluids useful herein include polyalkylsiloxane fluids,
Includes polyarylsiloxane fluids, silicones including cyclic and linear polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkoxylated silicones, amino and quaternary ammonium modified silicones, polyalkylaryl siloxane or polyether siloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. The silicone fluid can be volatile or non-volatile. Silicone fluids generally have a weight average molecular weight of about 200,
000. Suitable silicone fluids have a molecular weight of less than about 100,000, preferably less than about 50,000, and most preferably less than about 10,000. The silicone fluid has a weight average molecular weight of about 100 to about 50,000, preferably about 2 to about 50,000.
Preferably, it is selected from a silicone fluid ranging from 00 to about 40,000. Typically, the viscosity of the silicone fluid at 25C is from about 0.65 to about 600,000.
mm ² · s ⁻¹ , preferably in the range of about 0.65 to about 10,000 mm ² · s ⁻¹ . Viscosity is measured by Dow Corning Corporate test method CTM004 (
(July 29, 1970) can be measured using a glass capillary viscometer. Suitable polydimethylsiloxanes that can be used herein include General Electric Company
) And the Dos Corning 200 series from Dow Corning. Also useful are essentially non-volatile polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as polymethylphenylsiloxane, which have a viscosity at 25 ° C of about 0.65 to about 0.65.
30,000 mm ² · s ^-1 . These siloxanes are available, for example, as SF1075 methylphenyl fluid from General Electric Company or 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning. Suitable cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes for use in the present specification, from about 3 to about 7 amino (CH _{3) 2}
It has a ring structure in which SiO portions are bonded.

[0070] In a preferred embodiment, the silicone fluid is selected from dimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, phenylmethicone, and mixtures thereof.

[0071] Silicone rubbers can also be used in the present invention. As used herein, the term "silicone rubber" refers to a weight average molecular weight of greater than about 200,000, and preferably about 200,000.
High molecular weight silicones from 000 to about 4,000,000. Included are non-volatile polyalkyl and polyaryl siloxane rubbers. In a preferred embodiment, the silicone oil phase comprises silicone rubber or a mixture of silicones including silicone rubber. Typically, the viscosity of the silicone rubber at 25 ° C. exceeds about 1,000,000 mm ² s ⁻¹ . This silicone rubber is disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,152,416 (Spitzer).
Walter, May 1, 1979), and Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (Noll, Walter), New York: Academic Press 1968.
Including dimethicone described by Petrarch et al. The silicone rubbers further described are General Electric (Gene
ral Electric) silicone rubber product data sheets SE30, SE33, SE5
4 and SE76. Specific examples of silicone rubber include polydimethylsiloxane, (polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, poly (dimethylsiloxane) (diphenyl) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, and mixtures thereof. A preferred silicone rubber for use in the present invention is a silicone rubber having a molecular weight selected from dimethiconol and dimethicone and mixtures thereof from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000.

The silicone phase herein preferably includes a silicone rubber incorporated into the composition as part of a silicone rubber-fluid blend. When the silicone rubber is incorporated as part of a silicone rubber-fluid blend,
The silicone rubber is preferably about 5% of the silicone rubber-fluid blend.
From about 40% by weight, especially from about 10 to 20% by weight. Suitable silicone rubber-fluid blends herein are mixtures consisting essentially of: (i) dimethiconol, fluorosilicone, and dimethicone and mixtures thereof having a molecular weight of about 200,000 to about 4,000,000
A silicone having a viscosity of about 0.65 mm ² · s ^-1 to about 100 m;
m ² · s ⁻¹ , wherein the ratio of i) to ii) is from about 10:90 to about 20:80, wherein the final viscosity of the silicone rubber-based component is about 100mm ² · s ^{- 1} ~ about 100,000mm ² · s ^-1, preferably 500mm ² · s ^-1 ~ about 10,000m
m ² · s ⁻¹ .

Particularly preferred silicone rubber-fluid blend based components for use in the compositions herein include a silicone fluid carrier having a viscosity of about 0.65 to 100 mm ² · s ⁻¹ , with a molecular weight of about 200 2,000 to about 4,000,000 dimethiconol rubber. Examples of this silicone component are Dow Corning Q2-1403 (85% 5 mm ² · s ^-1 dimethicone fluid / 15% dimethiconol) and Dow Corning Q2-1401, commercially available from Dow Corning.

Further suitable silicone components for use in the silicone oil phase include crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers optionally dispersed in a fluid carrier. Generally, when the cross-linked polyorganosiloxane polymer is present, along with its carrier (if any), 0.1 to about 20%, preferably about 0.5%, in the composition.
To about 10%, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 5%. Such polymers include crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers with a crosslinking agent. Suitable crosslinking agents are disclosed in WO 98/22085. Examples of suitable polyorganosiloxane polymers for use in the present invention include methyl vinyl dimethicone, methyl vinyl diphenyl dimethicone, and methyl vinyl phenyl methyl diphenyl dimethicone.

The commercially available specific crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers used in the present invention include, for example, KSG15, KSG16, KSG17, and KSG18 (trade name: KSG).
Is a silicone vinyl crosspolymer mixture commercially available from Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
These materials contain a combination of a crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer and a silicone fluid. Particularly preferred for use in the present invention, especially in combination with an organic amphiphilic emulsifier material, is KSG18. KSG15, KSG16, KSG
17 and KSG18 are INCI names cyclomethicone dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, cyclomethicone dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and phenyltrimethicone, respectively. Dimethicone / phenylvinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

In the present invention, another type of silicone component suitable for use in the silicone oil phase is a polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxy containing at least one polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment. Alkylene copolymers are included. Suitable polydiorganosiloxane segments and their copolymers are disclosed in WO 98/22085. Suitable polydiorganosiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers are available under the trade name Belsil® from Wacker-Chemie.
GmbH, Geschaftsbereich S Postfach D800 Munich 22) and Abil
) (Registered trademark), for example, Belsil® 6031 and Abil (
Abil) ® B88183 is available from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd.
d., Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, HA40YL). Particularly preferred copolymer fluid blends for use in the present invention include CTF
Dow Corning D having dimethicone / dimethicone copolyol designated A
C3225C.

[0077] Further preferred components of the composition of the amphiphilic surfactant present invention is an organic amphiphilic surfactant, to form a smectic lyotropic crystals at room temperature or elevated temperature the product during or products when applied to the skin be able to. Said organic amphiphilic surfactants have been found to be of particular value in the present invention in improving the stability and skin feel of the compositions of the present invention. Preferably, the compositions herein comprise from about 0.01 to about 4%,
Preferably, it contains a nonionic amphiphilic surfactant at a concentration of about 0.05 to about 3%, and more preferably about 0.08 to about 2%. Preferred nonionic amphiphilic surfactants suitable for use herein and their properties are described in WO 98/220.
No. 85, which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety. Preferred herein are mono-, di- and tri-acyl sugar esters and mixtures thereof, wherein the acyl substituent has about 8 to about 24, preferably about 8 to about 24 acyl substituents.
It contains about 20 carbon atoms and 0, 1, or 2 unsaturated moieties and polyethylene glycol derivatives, or mixtures thereof. Highly preferred herein, a mixture of sorbitan or sorbitol fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester is a blend of fatty acid esters having a basic, fatty acids each example, preferably C ₈ -C _24, more preferably C ₁₀ it is a ~C _20. Preferred fatty acid ester emulsifiers are sorbitan or sorbitol C _16-
And C ₂₀ fatty acid esters, sucrose C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ fatty acid esters, in particular blend of sorbitan stearate and sucrose cocoate. It is commercially available from ICI under the trade name Arlatone 2121.

Wetting agents The compositions of the present invention are preferably from about 0.01 to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1 to about 20%.
It may include an additional wetting agent present at a concentration of 1 to about 15%, and particularly preferably about 0.5 to about 15%. Suitable additional wetting agents useful herein are sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate (NaPCA), guanidine; glycolic acid and glycolates (eg, ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); lactic acid and lactate ( Aloe vera in any of a variety of forms (eg, aloe vera gel); hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof (eg, salt derivatives such as sodium hyaluronate); Lactamide monoethanolamine; acetamidomonoethanolamine; urea; panthenol and their derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

At least a portion of the additional wetting agent (up to about 5% by weight of the composition) is in the form of an additive,
It can be incorporated into the particulate crosslinked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer, and is itself preferably present at a concentration of about 0.1 to about 10%, and can be added to either the aqueous or dispersed phase. This copolymer, while of particular value in reducing gloss and conditioning oils, helps to provide good moisturizing effects and is described in detail in WO 96/03964, which is hereby incorporated by reference. Into the book. The compounds listed above may be incorporated alone or in combination. Preferred additional wetting agents are selected from urea, panthenol and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred from the standpoint of enhancing moisturizing is a combination of glycerin and urea. In a preferred embodiment, urea is preferably present in about 0.1% of the composition.
To about 20%, more preferably from about 0.5 to about 10%, and particularly preferably from about 1 to about 5% by weight.

In a preferred embodiment, the oil phase and the organic amphiphilic surfactant, when present, are at a temperature above the Kraft point of the organic amphiphilic surfactant in water (but preferably less than about 60 ° C.). ) Premix to form liquid crystal / oil-in-water dispersion prior to urea addition. The urea, in combination with the amphiphilic emulsifying surfactant and the polyol fatty acid polyester, is particularly effective in the present invention for significantly moisturizing and softening the skin in the form of an oil-in-water skin care emulsion composition. Has been found to be relevant.

A wide variety of optional ingredients such as additional thickener ingredients, non-occlusive humectants, neutralizers, fragrances, fragrances, colorants, and surfactants. Can be added. Additional additional thickeners useful herein are water-soluble glyceryl poly (meth) acrylate lubricants (such as Hispagel®); Guardian® under the trademark Lubrajel® Guardian Chemical Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, NY 1178
7) polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricants, and mixtures thereof. In general, Lubrajel can be described as a hydrate or clathrate resulting from the reaction of sodium glycerate with a methacrylic acid polymer. Thereafter, the hydrate or clathrate is stabilized with a small amount of propylene glycol, and subsequently the hydratability of the final product is adjusted. Le Bragel (
Lubrajel) is available in various grades that differ in glyceric acid to polymer ratio and viscosity. Appropriate lubra gels include lubra gel TW, lubra gel C
G and Rubragel MS, Rubragel WA, Rubragel DV, and so-called Rubragel oil.

Suitable neutralizing agents for neutralizing the acidic group-containing hydrophilic gelling agent herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol , Tris buffer, and triethanolamine.

The compositions of the present invention are generally in the form of an emulsion, preferably having a product viscosity of at least about 4,000 mPa.s, and preferably from about 4,000 to about 300,000.
0 mPa.s, more preferably from about 8,000 to about 250,000 mPa.s, and particularly preferably from about 10,000 to about 200,000 mPa.s, and even more preferably from about 10,000 to about 200,000 mPa.s.
000 to about 150,000 mPa.s (25 ° C, undiluted, Brookfield RTV
Viscometer, 5 rpm TC spindle and Heliopath Stand
)).

The compositions of the present invention may further comprise about 0.01 to about 10%, preferably about 0.1 to about 5%.
Contains a panthenol humectant. The panthenol humectant is D-panthenol ([R] -2,4-dihydroxy-N- [3-hydroxypropyl)]-3,
3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, pantethine, pantothein, panthenyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxine, pantoyl lactose, and vitamin B complex.

Other optional substances include keratolytic / epidermic agents such as salicylic acid; proteins and polypeptides and their derivatives; water-soluble or soluble preservatives, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5 Germal (Germal)
l) methyl, ethyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, such as 115;
Propyl and butyl esters, benzyl alcohol, EDTA, Euxyl® K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol) and phenoxypropanol; Irgasan ® and phenoxyethanol (preferably 0.1
Antibacterial agents (such as about 5% concentration); soluble or colloidal soluble humectants such as hyaluronic acid; and Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Virginia, USA Port-Smith) and described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,076,663, Sanwet.RTM. IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-.
Sodium polyacrylate with starch branched, such as 2500; vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E, and vitamin K and derivatives thereof; α- and β-hydroxy acids; aloe vera; Sphingosine and phytosphingosine, cholesterol; skin lightening agents; N-acetylcysteine; coloring agents; fragrances and fragrance solubilizers.

[0087] Sunscreens are also useful in the present invention. A wide variety of sunscreens are described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,087,445 (Haffey et al., Issued Feb. 11, 1992); U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,372 (Turner et al., 1991). Year 12
U.S. Pat. No. 5,073,371 (Turner et al., 1).
Cosmetics Science and Technology, by Segarin et al., Published December 17, 991) (see Chapter VIII, p. 189 et seq.).
It is described in. Preferred among those sunscreens that are effective in the compositions of the present invention are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamic acid, 2-ethylhexyl-
N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole 5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomenthyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, 4,4'-methoxy-t -Butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidenecamphor, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, titanium dioxide,
Zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide, Parsol MCX, Eusolex
lex) 6300, octocrylene, Parsol 1789, and mixtures thereof. Still other effective sunscreens are disclosed in U.S. Pat.
37,370 (Sabatelli, issued June 26, 1990); and U.S. Pat. No. 4,999,186 (Sabatelli et al., Issued March 12, 1991).

Generally, sunscreens can comprise from about 0.5% to about 20% of the compositions useful in the present invention. The exact amount will depend on the sunscreen chosen and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF). SPF is a commonly used light protection indicator of sunscreens for erythema. US Federal Register, 43, 16
6, 38206-38269, (August 25, 1978).

The compositions of the present invention may additionally contain from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight of aluminum starch thiooctenyl succinate. Aluminum star thiooctenyl succinate is the aluminum salt of the reaction product of octenyl succinic anhydride with starch and is a registered trademark of Dry Flo under the name of National Starch & Chemical Ltd. .). From the viewpoint of skin feel and applicability, Dry Flo is effective in the present invention.

Other optional materials herein include pigments, which, when water-insoluble, contribute and include the total concentration of oil phase components. Pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention are organic and / or inorganic. The term pigment also includes matte finishes, and also low-tone or low-gloss substances such as light scattering agents. The compositions of the present invention preferably include a particulate material having a refractive index of about 1.3 to about 1.7, wherein the particulate material in the composition is dispersed with a median particle size of about 2 to about 30 mm. I have. Preferably, the microparticles useful herein exhibit a relatively narrow distribution, meaning that more than 50% of the particles fall within 3 mm on either side of their respective median. It is also preferred that more than 50%, preferably more than 60%, more preferably more than 70% of the particles fall within the size range defined as their respective median. Suitable particulate substances are organic or organosilicones and preferably organosilicone polymers. Preferred particles are free-flowing solid materials. What is meant by "solid" is that the particles are not hollow. The void in the center of the hollow particle may indicate an adverse reaction to the refractive index and thereby the visible effect of the particle on the skin or composition. Suitable organic particulate materials include the polymethylsilsesquioxane, polyamide, polythene, polyacrylonitrile, polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, polystyrene, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) and poly (vinylidene chloride) described above. Were given. Copolymers derived from monomers of the above-mentioned substances can also be used. Inorganic substances include silica and boron nitride. Representative examples of commercially available particulate materials useful herein include Tospearl® 145 and Kobo having a median particle size of about 4.5 mm.
EA-209®, an ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer having a median particle size of about 10 mm, or a mixture thereof.

Further examples of suitable pigments are titanium dioxide, predispersed titanium dioxide commercially available from Kobo, such as Kobo GWL75CAP, iron oxide,
Asiglutamate iron oxide, Ultramarine Blue, D & C dye, carmine, and mixtures thereof. Depending on the type of composition, mixtures of pigments are used as usually used. Preferred pigments for use in the present invention in view of moisture retention, skin feel, skin appearance, and emulsion compatibility are treated pigments. The pigment can be treated with compounds such as amino acids, silicones, lecithin and ester oils.

Vitamin B ₃ Constituents The compositions of the present invention may further comprise a safe and effective amount of a vitamin B ₃ compound. The compositions of the present invention are preferably from about 0.01 to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.1%.
1 to about 20%, even more preferably from about 0.5 to about 10%, and even more preferably from about 1 to about 8%, most preferably from about 1.5 to about 6% vitamin B ₃ compound.

As used herein, “vitamin B ₃ compound” refers to a compound having the following structural formula:

Embedded image

Wherein R is —CONH ₂ (ie, nicotinamide), —COOH (ie, nicotinic acid), or —CH ₂ OH (ie, nicotinyl alcohol); a derivative thereof; Salt. Examples of typical derivatives of the foregoing vitamin B ₃ compounds, nicotine containing non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, and the like nicotinic acid N- oxide and niacinamide N- oxide Acid esters.

Suitable nicotinic acid esters include C ₁ -C ₂₂ nicotinic acid esters, preferably C ₁ -C ₁₆ , more preferably C ₁ -C ₆ alcohols. The alcohols are suitably linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including aromatic), and substituted or unsubstituted. Esters are preferably non-vasodilating. As used herein, the term "non-vasodilator" means that the ester does not cause a normally visible flushing response upon application of the composition to the skin (such compounds Can cause vasodilation that is unrecognizable to the naked eye, but the majority of the general population does not experience a visible flushing response.) Non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate; tocopherol nicotinate is preferred. Vitamin B ₃
A detailed description of the compounds is given in WO 98/22085.

Examples of the above vitamin B ₃ compounds are well known in the art and include, for example, Sigma Chemical Company, St. Louis, Mo .; ICN Biomedicals, Inc., California, USA Irvine) and Aldrich Chemical Company
Company, Milwaukee, Wis., USA). One or more vitamin B ₃ compounds may be used herein. Preferred vitamin B ₃ compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Nicotinamide is more preferred.

Retinoid The composition of the present invention may further contain a retinoid. As used herein,
"Retinoids" includes all natural and / or synthetic analogs of vitamin A or retinol-like compounds that have the biological activity of vitamin A in the skin, as well as geometric and stereoisomers of these compounds. The retinoid is preferably retinol, retinol esters (e.g., retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, C ₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl esters of retinol, including retinyl proprionate), retinal, and / or (all trans -Retinoic acid and / or 1
Retinoic acid (including 3-cis-retinoic acid), more preferably a retinoid other than retinoic acid. These compounds are well known in the art and include, for example,
It is commercially available from a number of sources, such as the Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, Mo., USA) and Boehringer Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN). Preferred retinoids are retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate, retinal and combinations thereof. Even more preferred are retinol and retinyl palmitate. Retinoids may be included as substantially pure substances, or may be included as extracted from the appropriate, physically and / or chemically isolated from natural (eg, plant) resources.

The composition preferably contains about 0.005%, or about 0.005 to about 2%, or about 2%, more preferably 0.01 to about 2% of the retinoid. Retinol is most preferably 0.01%, or about 0.01% to 0.15%, or about 0.1%.
5%; retinol esters are most preferably from about 0.01 to about 2% (e.g.,
About 1%).

In addition, the combination of a vitamin B ₃ compound and a retinoid may provide the benefit of adjusting skin conditions as described in WO 98/22085, which is incorporated herein by reference.

Suitably, the pH of the compositions herein is above 4.25, preferably above 4.5, and more preferably above 4.75, as well preferably below 9, more preferably below 8.
And even more preferably less than 7. The water content of the compositions herein is:
Usually about 30 to about 98.89% by weight, preferably about 50 to about 95% by weight, and particularly preferably about 60 to about 90% by weight.

EXAMPLES The compositions of the present invention are preferably in the form of a moisturizing cream or lotion that can be applied to the skin as a leave-on product. The present invention will be described by the following examples.

[0102]

[Table 1]

[0103] ¹ Union Carbide Corporation (Union Carbide Corporation, the United States Danbury, CT) ² Kronos, which is supplied from the (Kronos, 4 Place Ville Marie # 500, Montreal, Quebec, Canada
) ³ Cobo Products supplied from (Kobo Products inc, 690 Montrose Ave , So Plainfield,
⁴ GE Silicone (GE Silicones supplied from NJ 07080), Plasticslaan 1 / PO Box 117, 4600 AC Berge
⁵ ICI Surfactants (PO Box 90, Wilton Centre, Mid)
dlesborough, Cleveland, England TS68JE). ⁶ Sepik (Seppic, 75 Quai D'Orsay, Paris) 7 ICI (PO Box 90 supplied from, Wilton Centre, Middlesborough, Cleveland, England T
PEG100 stearate supplied by S68JE). ⁸ Sher Chemicals inc, industrial West, Clifton,
NJ 07012) ⁹ C ₁ -C _{30 of} a saccharide and one or more carboxylic acid moieties as described herein.
A monoester or polyester, preferably having a degree of esterification of 7 to
8 wherein the fatty acid moiety is a _C18 monounsaturated or diunsaturated and behenic acid and the molar ratio of unsaturated acid to behenic acid is from 1: 7 to 3: 5 sucrose polyester; More preferably, it is an octaester of sucrose having about 7 behen fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule, one example being sucrose esters of cottonseed oil fatty acids. ¹⁰ Dow Corning, Kings Court, 185 Kinds Rd, Reading, Be
rks, RG1 4EX) ¹¹ Union Carbide Corporation (Danbury, Connecticut, USA) ¹² Hercules inc, Noordweg 9, 3336 LH Zwinjndrecht, PO B
ox 71, 3330 AB Zwijndrecht, supplied by ¹³ Calgon Corporation supplied from the Netherlands) (Calgon Corporation, 43 Hawthorne Av , 14 Union Carbide supplied from NJ 07506) (Union Carbide Corporation, USA Danbury, CT)

The composition is prepared as follows: anionic thickener component (if used), glycerin / TiO ₂ premix, cation-containing polymer, Arlatone 21 (if used)
21 and the other water soluble components except urea are mixed in water and heated to about 80 ° C. to prepare an initial premix. A second premix containing an oil phase component, containing an emulsifier other than silicone oil and an oil-soluble preservative, is prepared by mixing and heating, and added to the aqueous premix.

If present, the polymeric anionic thickener, at this time, is added with sodium hydroxide and neutralized to pH 6-7.5 before cooling to about 60 ° C. by applying shear. In the presence of the polymeric nonionic thickener, the preparation method is as described above, but the polymeric thickener, for example Sepigel 305 (polyacrylamide), is not added until the mixture has cooled to 60 ° C. Sepigel 305 is added under shear, then the NaOH solution is added. In each case, EDTA, silicone rubber, and urea solution (1 g dissolved in 1 ml water) are added to the resulting oil-in-water emulsion, and the mixture is cooled before adding additional components. The composition is ready to be placed in a container.

The compositions exhibit good rheological, absorption, and coating properties, as well as the benefits of skin feel, skin softness, and skin smoothness, as well as low levels of tack.

──────────────────────────────────────────────────続 き Continuation of front page (81) Designated country EP (AT, BE, CH, CY, DE, DK, ES, FI, FR, GB, GR, IE, IT, LU, MC, NL, PT, SE ), OA (BF, BJ, CF, CG, CI, CM, GA, GN, GW, ML, MR, NE, SN, TD, TG), AP (GH, GM, KE, LS, MW, SD, SL, SZ, TZ, UG, ZW), EA (AM, AZ, BY, KG, KZ, MD, RU, TJ, TM), AE, AL, AM, AT, AU, AZ, BA, BB, BG, BR, BY, CA, CH, CN, CR, CU, CZ, DE, DK, DM, EE, ES, FI, GB, GD, GE, GH, GM, HR, HU, ID , IL, IN, IS, JP, KE, KG, KP, KR, KZ, LC, LK, LR, LS, LT, LU, LV, MA, MD, MG, MK, MN, MW, MX, NO, NZ, PL, PT, RO, RU, SD, SE, SG, SI, SK, SL, TJ, TM, TR, TT, TZ, UA, UG, US, UZ, VN, YU, ZA, ZW (72 Inventor Bell, Michael David United Kingdom, Berkshire, Aargie 45, 7 Cuees, Clawson, Macefield, Gardens 61 , Road 30, Bison, Court 4 (72) Inventor Elliott, Russell Philippe United Kingdom, Surrey, Tidable 20, 9, Arjay, Lee Gham, Nobles, Way 14 (72) Inventor Duke, Roland Phillippe, UK, Berks, ARG 41, 3N, Walkingham, Camellia, Way 15 F term (reference) 4C083 AB032 AB242 AC012 AC072 AC111 AC122 AC152 AC352 AC482 AC532 AC642 AC682 AD042 AD071 AD072 AD091 AD092 AD131 AD132 AD351 AD352 AD662 BB05 BB07 BB34 BB35 BB51 CC02 CC04 CC05 DD23 DD27 DD31 EE06 EE11

Claims (16)

[Claims] 1. A leave-on cosmetic composition suitable for topical application to the skin, comprising: a) a nonionic and anionic thickener component having a number average molecular weight of more than 20,000, or a mixture thereof. B) a cation-containing polymer, or a mixture thereof; wherein the composition comprises less than 4% of an anionic, zwitterionic, or amphoteric surfactant. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the cation-containing polymer is selected from a cationic or amphoteric polymer or a mixture thereof. 3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the cation-containing polymer is a cationic polysaccharide or a derivative thereof. 4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the cation-containing polymer is an amphoteric acrylic acid-containing copolymer. 5. The cation-containing polymer is a cationic cellulose derivative,
The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is selected from cationic polysaccharide guar gum derivatives and acrylic acid / diallyldimethylammonium chloride / acrylamide copolymer, or mixtures thereof. 6. An amount of about 0.01 to about 20% by weight, preferably about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, more preferably about 0.1 to about 1% by weight of the cation-containing polymer or a mixture thereof. A composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising: 7. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the number-average molecular weight of the polymeric thickener component is greater than 50,000, and in particular greater than 100,000. 8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein said polymeric thickener component is selected from polyacrylamide polymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, or mixtures thereof. 9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polymer thickener component is a polyacrylamide polymer. 10. About 0.01 to about 10%, preferably about 0.1 to about 8%, and most preferably about 0.5 to about 5% by weight of said polymeric thickener component, or The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising a mixture thereof. 11. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising about 3 to about 20% of a polyhydric alcohol, or a mixture thereof. 12. The composition according to claim 1, comprising preferably less than 2% and more preferably less than 1% of anionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant. 13. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition comprises a ratio of cation-containing polymer to anionic surfactant of greater than 1 when the composition comprises an anionic surfactant. Composition. 14. A cosmetic method for treating skin, comprising applying the composition according to claim 1 to the skin. 15. A cation-containing polymer or a cation-containing polymer for reducing the level of tackiness of a skin care composition comprising a nonionic and anionic thickener component or a mixture thereof having a number average molecular weight of more than 20,000. Use of mixtures. 16. A polymeric thickener component selected from nonionic and anionic thickener components having a number average molecular weight of more than 20,000, or a mixture thereof, and a cation-containing polymer or a mixture thereof. Use of a composition comprising for applying to leave-on skin care.